LIVE from the Camino Loving the Invierno

[laineylainey]

Well I finished the Madrid on Thursday at Sahagún and got the train to Ponferrada to start yesterday walking to Borrenes. I am taking my time, having sweated a bit over 2 weeks on the Madrid.
This is a joy! The walk yesterday up to Castillo Cornetel, I thought would be too much for me, but it was fine and the views were definitely worth it. After the scarity of facilities on the Madrid, it was wonderful to have at least 4 little towns to walk through. Last night stayed at, I think the only option bar renting a casa Rural, Cornetel Medulas. They offer evening meals. The only other little cafe mentioned by Brierley in the square is closed, permanently by the looks of it?
Today a wonderful walk to Las Medulas short, but suited me well. Lovely to take the rucksack off and walk up to see the caves! Then up to the recommended viewpoint Mirador de Pedrices, with the fabulous views of the Medulas and surrounding countryside.
Tonight I am staying in what I think is the most beautiful Albergue in the world (and I am not even an Albergue fan!) . It is in Puente de Domingo Florez, again a short walk today. It is called Casa Rosa. It is donativo! It's like a 4 star wee hotel and Rosa and her son are just angels.
So far the Invierno is ticking all my boxes. I just hope it continues

 

[jennysa]

Well I finished the Madrid on Thursday at Sahagún and got the train to Ponferrada to start yesterday walking to Borrenes. I am taking my time, having sweated a bit over 2 weeks on the Madrid.
This is a joy! The walk yesterday up to Castillo Cornetel, I thought would be too much for me, but it was fine and the views were definitely worth it. After the scarity of facilities on the Madrid, it was wonderful to have at least 4 little towns to walk through. Last night stayed at, I think the only option bar renting a casa Rural, Cornetel Medulas. They offer evening meals. The only other little cafe mentioned by Brierley in the square is closed, permanently by the looks of it?
Today a wonderful walk to Las Medulas short, but suited me well. Lovely to take the rucksack off and walk up to see the caves! Then up to the recommended viewpoint Mirador de Pedrices, with the fabulous views of the Medulas and surrounding countryside.
Tonight I am staying in what I think is the most beautiful Albergue in the world (and I am not even an Albergue fan!) . It is in Puente de Domingo Florez, again a short walk today. It is called Casa Rosa. It is donativo! It's like a 4 star wee hotel and Rosa and her son are just angels.
So far the Invierno is ticking all my boxes. I just hope it continues

I am walking it in April next year. Have you encountered any other pilgrims? I believe that it is a solitary Camino?

 

[laineylainey]

Not so far. But there are plenty of places to meet up with locals!

 

[laineylainey]

Another lovely day, but my the early mornings are a bit chilly, then about 9am someone turns on the heat! Had the most wonderful breakfast at Casa Rosa before setting off. It was lovely to cross over into Galicia at Quereno. I always feel most at home in Galicia. Think it always reminds me of Ireland. Lovely trail up by the railway through a forest type path and then the gorgeous wee town of Pumares, with the chance of an unexpected sello at a casa rural. A much welcomed café con leche at Sobradelo. Staying in O Barco in la Gran Tortuga. Basic but perfect and close to the river for some food and a drink close to the river. Just love the contrast between nature and urban.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino @laineylainey ! I am considering walking again, but short stages, to really take my time - as you seem to be doing. A wonderful idea.
(The Invierno is my favorite camino, so I am green with envy.)

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Well I finished the Madrid on Thursday at Sahagún and got the train to Ponferrada to start yesterday walking to Borrenes. I am taking my time, having sweated a bit over 2 weeks on the Madrid.
This is a joy! The walk yesterday up to Castillo Cornetel, I thought would be too much for me, but it was fine and the views were definitely worth it. After the scarity of facilities on the Madrid, it was wonderful to have at least 4 little towns to walk through. Last night stayed at, I think the only option bar renting a casa Rural, Cornetel Medulas. They offer evening meals. The only other little cafe mentioned by Brierley in the square is closed, permanently by the looks of it?
Today a wonderful walk to Las Medulas short, but suited me well. Lovely to take the rucksack off and walk up to see the caves! Then up to the recommended viewpoint Mirador de Pedrices, with the fabulous views of the Medulas and surrounding countryside.
Tonight I am staying in what I think is the most beautiful Albergue in the world (and I am not even an Albergue fan!) . It is in Puente de Domingo Florez, again a short walk today. It is called Casa Rosa. It is donativo! It's like a 4 star wee hotel and Rosa and her son are just angels.
So far the Invierno is ticking all my boxes. I just hope it continues

Hi, we are both in the same town. I’m so sorry I missed that place. Sounds lovely. I’m in the Hostal. Used the Wise pilgrim app to find a place to stay and it didn’t mention it

I agree it is a lovely Camino.

Edit: Checked out the place on Google maps and realise that I passed. But there was a Cerrado sign on the door then so I didn’t stop. Bummer. Looks really nice.

Edit: I now saw that you were here 2 days ago.

 

[laineylainey]

Sylvia at the Gran Tortuga provided a really great breakfast this morning, adding if I wanted to take anything with me to do so. So I took a banana which I always feel comfortable with in the side pocket of my rucksack as an essential "if there is nothing else to eat, I always have a banana".
I decided to take Brierley's alternative green route out of O'Barco and sort of reinvented a slightly different route but with the same initial destination, Pazo de Arnado, a gorgeous disused castle or stately home. Then I found another "alternative route" while walking and chatting with a local walker so when I eventually consulted Brierley's book again I realised I hadn't really a clue where I was but it was somewhere before Vilamartin? Don't get me wrong the route was easy but just a but different to the book! Then after another km or 2, I just abandoned Brierley because I think since last year the route has been changed? So a couple of km from the outskirts of A Rua there is a bit of a confusing big noticeboard saying there are 2 routes, one along the side of the road, apparently recommended, the other across the road and up to the right. But as the noticeboard had the walker pointing in the opposite direction, I hadn't a clue, so initially off I set along the side of the road until it became obvious the remaining route was on the road, which was quite busy, so back I went and on the way met a peregrino! (Ben from Taiwan)nd took the alternative path which, albeit was a little steep for less than a 100yards, became a lovely path up high above the main road (on the left). I even stopped and had a bit of lunch on a bench. Then a bit of a descent into A Rua and then about 2.5k to the lovely Hostal O'Pillaban where I am staying tonight. Unfortunately the restaurante is closed until the end of the month but the room is lovely and only €25.
I have met 5 other peregrinos today including Ben from Taiwan, a group of 2 Americans and 2 Spanish walking together. It was really something special to have a late lunch with others on the road, after 3 weeks!

 

[C clearly]

So a couple of km from the outskirts of A Rua there is a bit of a confusing big noticeboard saying there are 2 routes, one along the side of the road, apparently recommended, the other across the road and up to the right.

Yes, I found that noticeboard to be confusing as well. I wish I had taken a photo of it. But I think it indicated the road route as being hazardous. As you would have found out, you need to cross the road and up a few steps to the right, but then you immediately go left and up a short hill. That path and approach to A Rua was very pleasant.

 

[laineylainey]

Lovely day again today from A Rua to Quiroga. A climb and a climb and the another wee climb towards the end when you are starting to think " no surely we must be starting to go down !". That's what I love about the Caminos, always full of surprises always leaving the best and sometimes the last hill til last!
The views way up over the Rio Sil were breath taking. Must admit I did move over to the right hand side of the road at some points as I thought, "oh wouldn't want to slip down there on the left!" Totally crazy thinking as there is no risk at all. It's just when you are climbing and look over and see the wonderful views of the mountains and the river Sil, you realise how small you are in comparison to the total and wonderful views and countryside surrounding you. It is humbling.
Met some wonderful young volunteers from the Camino Invierno Association on the way and pointed them to the camino Forum website. Told them there is a very passionate group of Invierno supporters on the forum.
It is still a wonderful experience and with less sun strength during the day for me it is perfect.

 

[VNwalking]

@laineylainey is there any sign of the fires that roared through here the other month?

It's good you managed to find the alternative before A Rua - because that little stretch of road was hair-raising:

the road, which was quite busy, so back I went and on the way met a peregrino! (Ben from Taiwan)nd took the alternative path which, albeit was a little steep for less than a 100yards, became a lovely path up high above the main road (on the left). I

 

[laineylainey]

@VNwalking , oh my goodness how sad the walk today was from Quiroga to Salcedo where I have finished, as the weather has changed and I didn't want to push on to Monforte de Lemos. The climb up from San Clodio to the top at Capela dos Remedios is so different now because of the devastation of forest fires? But I had read about that in an earlier blog, but just awful to see. No fires now just mounds and mounds of blackened tree stumps and cut down black trees, very sad. But there were signs of new growth, though not trees. Still the walk was wonderful, although the cloud was low and it was raining lightly.
But a bit of advise, for those looking for a cafe stop at A Ponte Barxa, after the descent from Capela. Brierley mentions the sign posted left diversion to Pacita. There is a sign for it, but also a message that suggests the cafe is not open but there are only rooms (alojamientos?). I was really looking forward to a coffee break but decided even though it was only a 600m detour there and back I would just carry on. In fact I had a quick stop by the church (Igrexa de Santa Marina) just around the corner .
Then fuelled by water, some nuts and a bit of bread and goats cheese!, I became reckless and took a turning to the right marked "Salcedo " and mentioned in Brierley's book and ended up being rescued by a wonderful group of Spaniards going in the opposite direction in an old Land rover. One of the many things I love about the Spanish is their ability to deal with my crisis as an opportunity to have a great adventure! They were simply delighted to carry on down the very narrow stony track to a very narrow corner where 4 of them got out and assisted the driver by way of loud shouts and gesticulations as to how to turn the land rover around without going over the edge of the mountain path, which when successfully manoeuvred we all clapped and cheered and they took me back up the mountain path about 3 k and happily deposited me in Salcedo. When I apologised for taking their time they simply said in Spanish, that it was okay they hadn't really planned anything else! I sort of got the impression that a lost peregrina was an unexpected adventure for them. God bless all 6 of them thank you
In Salcedo tonight at O'Forno looking forward to seeing Monforte de Lemos tomorrow.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

@laineylainey is there any sign of the fires that roared through here the other month?

It's good you managed to find the alternative before A Rua - because that little stretch of road was hair-raising:

The stage before Quiroga was intact when I was there this summer. But between Quiroga and Pobra (rather Carballo de Lor)... It was a nightmare. Everything burnt to ashes. Maybe it is my posts that @laineylainey is referring to above. I hope nature already is beginning to take back the ground...

 

[VNwalking]

It's sad, but that stretch was a pine monoculture - a fire waiting to happen. Meanwhile, that was quite a hilarious adventure with the Spanish peregrinos...

 

[peregrina2000]

I became reckless and took a turning to the right marked "Salcedo " and mentioned in Brierley's book

Glad you’re ok, but that’s concerning. I haven’t been on this route but thought it sounded like a nice way to get to Salcedo.

Was the path not marked?

There are wikiloc tracks that show a circle trail, round trip from Salcedo, and a few one way. From Barxa it looks like about a 300 m ascent to Salcedo.

Salcedo - Barxa de Lor

Salcedo - Barxa de Lor Hiking trail in Salcedo, Galicia (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

Loving your posts, @laineylainey!

 

[laineylainey]

The road I took to Salcedo was the one just past igrexa de Santa marina and the wee cemetry. Down that toad was a wooden signposted to Salcedo. Brierley mentions it. I should have walked on yo the Castroncrlos Fuente. Still it was a great adventure, the kind I love on the camino!
More later. In beautiful Chantada having an early morning cafe con leche before the walk to Rodeiro.

 

[VNwalking]

More later. In beautiful Chantada having an early morning cafe con leche before the walk to Rodeiro.

Envyyyyyyy!
(Check out the Panaderia Jesus in Rodeiro - it's where the King of Spain gets his daily bread.)

 

[laineylainey]

So I believe, re the panadería.
So, Thursday stayed in Monforte de Lemos. Interesting town with expensive tourist avenue for restaurants and bars. I stayed at hotel Ribeira Sacra. Modern little gem very close to everything and a great wee breakfast. Yesterday was the long walk to Chantada. It is wonderful with extraordinary views on the way up and then a steep but sheltered woodland descent to the wonderful views of Belesar Bridge across the river Minho. A young peregrino ftom Taiwan treated himseld to a 2 hour boat cruise from Belesar! The biews are breathtaking.
Now fir my bad news. Although Brierley warns about the steep climb into Chantada but suggests that with every step there is a breath taking(literally in my case) view I just found it a really hard slog and every minute or so had to stop to literally breath! It had been over 8 hours waking for me by this stage, so my legs and heart were complaining a bit!
But have to say the Chantada was well worth the effort. What a gorgeous town. Lots of bars, cafes and just lovely housing.
Stayed at the Albergue A posada de Asma which is great. One dormitory, I think 12 beds. 5 bathrooms, 2 men, 2 women , 1 disabled. All with lovely showers. Great kitchen, cooker microwave, fridge freezer, washing machine and dryer. Table and chairs. All very clean. Only problem for this dinosaur was the check in process via a app to get the door code. I hate anything other than a key. Also there is another new ultra modern Albergue called Dpaso, with sleeping pods, though my friend from Taiwan said the bed was a bit hard, mine in posada de asma was lovely and comfy. Supermarkets and plenty of places to eat. All around a really lovely place on the Invierno.
Today's walk was all about climbing yo the highest point on the Invierno, at Monte Faro at 1190m. I was so looking forward to it. The views coming out of Chantada early morning with the early morning mists and light were magnificent. The climb up was a bit steep initially but then the path went around the hill. Then after an hour or two, I found myself descending having followed a mojon pointing to the right just after a but if a steep but unmarked path straight on through the wind turbines. So after about 30 minutes, I realised I had missed the path to both the Ermida do Faro and Monte Faro! I was so disappointed. However now in Histal Carpinterias in Rodeiro, I gave met 3 other peregrinos, only one of them found the oath to Monte Faro and that was by using Google maps. So I now believe it may not be that well signposted because it is not on the Camino path and stupidly I thought it was. I can now see from Brierley's map that the camino veers right from the top and I should have gone straight on through the wind turbines. It's a shame because Ben from Taiwan said the views from Monte Faro, the highest spot on the Invierno, were fantastic!
Still there were lovely views going up.
In Carpinterias would recommend the Albergue, it is really lovely.
Tomorrow last day walking, only to Lalin, then a bus to Santiago.

 

[laineylainey]

So my last day and what a glorious reminder of how Galicia keeps sometimes her simplest and best path to the last. Walking not too early because I only needed to be at Lalin around 2pm I got the best of the day. Fields still soaked with overnight dew and glorious shades of green through forest and country paths, reminding me of my own country of Ireland. It was a gorgeous countryside walk. Loved every step. Nothing spectacular like previous days wonderful heights and vistas, simply a walk that you might take every time you could. I think we can all relate to that type of everyday great walk?
So got a bus from Lalin after a lovely lunch at the bus station, and now I am in the "Holy city".
Just a couple of personal thoughts about the Invierno. After the Madrid, which I didn't enjoy as much as I thought I would, I was a little, well more than a little, apprehensive about the Invierno. After all the Madrid is sort of flatish in comparison? So when I saw Brierley's profiles, I thought, maybe a bit more of a challenge than I am up for?
Well, I was wrong. I found it one of the best Caminos I have ever walked. I totally loved it, nearly every step. Wouldn't want to walk up to Chantada again! But then the gift was Chantada town which is just so lovely.
This is a Camino which is going in popularity. I met up to 12 peregrinos during my walk.
Simply a wonderful Camino, really recommend it to anyone looking for a more wonderful experience of Galicia.

 

[VNwalking]

And the tail-end (after you meet the Sanabres) is such a gentle entry to Santiago.
Thank you for your wonderful posts, @laineylainey - they brought back very happy memories.
Well done, and may you have a great time in Santiago and safe journey homewards.

 

[jennysa]

So my last day and what a glorious reminder of how Galicia keeps sometimes her simplest and best path to the last. Walking not too early because I only needed to be at Lalin around 2pm I got the best of the day. Fields still soaked with overnight dew and glorious shades of green through forest and country paths, reminding me of my own country of Ireland. It was a gorgeous countryside walk. Loved every step. Nothing spectacular like previous days wonderful heights and vistas, simply a walk that you might take every time you could. I think we can all relate to that type of everyday great walk?
So got a bus from Lalin after a lovely lunch at the bus station, and now I am in the "Holy city".
Just a couple of personal thoughts about the Invierno. After the Madrid, which I didn't enjoy as much as I thought I would, I was a little, well more than a little, apprehensive about the Invierno. After all the Madrid is sort of flatish in comparison? So when I saw Brierley's profiles, I thought, maybe a bit more of a challenge than I am up for?
Well, I was wrong. I found it one of the best Caminos I have ever walked. I totally loved it, nearly every step. Wouldn't want to walk up to Chantada again! But then the gift was Chantada town which is just so lovely.
This is a Camino which is going in popularity. I met up to 12 peregrinos during my walk.
Simply a wonderful Camino, really recommend it to anyone looking for a more wonderful experience of Galicia.

and was

 

[jennysa]

Thank you so much Ian, and congratulations. I am starting 21 April next year with 2 friends who are going as far as Monteforte. I was feeling very apprehensive about continuing on a solitary camino after that, but you have inspired me - except that daunting climb up to Chantada. Any way of avoiding it?

How many days did it take you to reach Lanin?

I will be going through all your posts to pick out all your recommendations, but if there is anything else you can think of, could you let me know please. I will be using the Wise Pilgrim app.

 

[VNwalking]

Any way of avoiding it?

No. It is the crossing of the Rio Miño, so you go down steeply and up steeply.
But that stage can now be a mini-stage since it's possible to stay at the albergue in Diomondi, at the to of the descent - and Chantada, not far from the river on the other side. And you can take all day to do it. The steepness can be mitigated a bit by following the road the whole way, which would be much longer. But if you have all day, who cares? Plus there is a winery half way up, for those who are into such things,

There are plenty of Invierno threads here - live treads plus a planning thread - that will give you a sense of how long it can take. Just look at the pinned threads at the top of the sub-forum list. I took 11 days to Lalin, when I could have easily have taken 9 - because I wanted to linger. It is a lovely walk!

 

[jennysa]

No. It is the crossing of the Rio Miño, so you go down steeply and up steeply.
But that stage can now be a mini-stage since it's possible to stay at the albergue in Diomondi, at the to of the descent - and Chantada, not far from the river on the other side. And you can take all day to do it. The steepness can be mitigated a bit by following the road the whole way, which would be much longer. But if you have all day, who cares? Plus there is a winery half way up, for those who are into such things,

There are plenty of Invierno threads here - live treads plus a planning thread - that will give you a sense of how long it can take. Just look at the pinned threads at the top of the sub-forum list. I took 11 days to Lalin, when I could have easily have taken 9 - because I wanted to linger. It is a lovely walk!

You have inspired me. Thank you Ian

 

[laineylainey]

Thank you so much Ian, and congratulations. I am starting 21 April next year with 2 friends who are going as far as Monteforte. I was feeling very apprehensive about continuing on a solitary camino after that, but you have inspired me - except that daunting climb up to Chantada. Any way of avoiding it?

How many days did it take you to reach Lanin?

I will be going through all your posts to pick out all your recommendations, but if there is anything else you can think of, could yo@u let me know please. I will be using the Wise Pilgrim app.

@jennysa I took 10 days as I split the first day to stay at Borrenes so that I could spend time the next day at Las Medulas. The day I shouldn't have split in retrospect was to Monforte de Lemos, I thought the walk would be too difficult and long for Mr, so I diverted to Salcedo. Now know I could have and should have gone on to Monfote, having spoken to other peregrinos. Also advice about Salcedo. There is only one hotel and if upu book direct with them, the owner can pick up up 3 km away at a junction. I booked through Booking.com and he wouldn't pick me up. It wasn't a problem as it was the day I was rescued by a lovely group of Spaniards and they ended up taking me to Salcedo!
Seriously though, this camino is very doable I believe having done it and initially had similar concerns. I was walking alone.
Only thing I would say to really factor in, is high heat. I was very lucky with the weather. Most days a bit of cloud cover and a bit of a breeze. One day drizzle after a night of rain. Average day temperature less than 25 degrees. I think in high heat it would have been a little more challenging personally for me.
Re the walk to Chantada, it's okay really, just take your time. The only other option would be to get a taxi? But then you might regret not doing it and telling all, like me!
You will love the Invierno, it's a gem of a Camino.

 

[Charrito]

@jennysa I took 10 days as I split the first day to stay at Borrenes so that I could spend time the next day at Las Medulas. The day I shouldn't have split in retrospect was to Monforte de Lemos, I thought the walk would be too difficult and long for Mr, so I diverted to Salcedo. Now know I could have and should have gone on to Monfote, having spoken to other peregrinos. Also advice about Salcedo. There is only one hotel and if upu book direct with them, the owner can pick up up 3 km away at a junction. I booked through Booking.com and he wouldn't pick me up. It wasn't a problem as it was the day I was rescued by a lovely group of Spaniards and they ended up taking me to Salcedo!
Seriously though, this camino is very doable I believe having done it and initially had similar concerns. I was walking alone.
Only thing I would say to really factor in, is high heat. I was very lucky with the weather. Most days a bit of cloud cover and a bit of a breeze. One day drizzle after a night of rain. Average day temperature less than 25 degrees. I think in high heat it would have been a little more challenging personally for me.
Re the walk to Chantada, it's okay really, just take your time. The only other option would be to get a taxi? But then you might regret not doing it and telling all, like me!
You will love the Invierno, it's a gem of a Camino.

Two things:

you're right about José Luís en Salcedo. He'll pick you up and drop you off in Castrocelos IF YOU BOOK DIRECTLY WITH HIM. I've walked up directly from Barxa do Lor to Salcedo quite a few times, and it's well signposted (just take a right at the little church after crossing the bridge at Barxa do Lor).

if you want to avoid the long long stage from Monforte de Lemos to Chantada, split it in two and stay in Torre Vilariño. Susana is a great host, the casa rural is beautiful, the food excellent, and you have a couple of 'miradores' just down the road to look down on the river Miño.

I've posted information about all this on the forum.

 

[jennysa]

Two things:

you're right about José Luís en Salcedo. He'll pick you up and drop you off in Castrocelos IF YOU BOOK DIRECTLY WITH HIM. I've walked up directly from Barxa do Lor to Salcedo quite a few times, and it's well signposted (just take a right at the little church after crossing the bridge at Barxa do Lor).

if you want to avoid the long long stage from Monforte de Lemos to Chantada, split it in two and stay in Torre Vilariño. Susana is a great host, the casa rural is beautiful, the food excellent, and you have a couple of 'miradores' just down the road to look down on the river Miño.

I've posted information about all this on the forum.

Two things:

you're right about José Luís en Salcedo. He'll pick you up and drop you off in Castrocelos IF YOU BOOK DIRECTLY WITH HIM. I've walked up directly from Barxa do Lor to Salcedo quite a few times, and it's well signposted (just take a right at the little church after crossing the bridge at Barxa do Lor).

if you want to avoid the long long stage from Monforte de Lemos to Chantada, split it in two and stay in Torre Vilariño. Susana is a great host, the casa rural is beautiful, the food excellent, and you have a couple of 'miradores' just down the road to look down on the river Miño.

I've posted information about all this on the forum.

So i a detour to Salcedo recommended or to stay on the route?

 

[Charrito]

So i a detour to Salcedo recommended or to stay on the route?

I've stayed in Salcedo loads of times and would definitely recommend a slight detour from Barxa do Lor. The stage from Quiroga to Monforte de Lemos is pretty long, especially as As Viñas in A Pobra closed some years ago, and it remains to be seen whether Pensión Pacita in Barxa do Lor is going to open fully again.

 

[peregrina2000]

Some forum members have been in direct contact with the family that runs Pensión Pacita, and it is open again. It is a good way to break up the Quiroga to Monforte stage.
Quiroga to Pacita, 15. Pacita to Monforte, about 21

The Salcedo option is also very doable.
Quiroga to Salcedo, 21, with a ride from Castroncelos (or 24 if you walk from Castroncelos to Salcedo). Salcedo to Monforte, about 18.

I know that there are a lot of forum members who don’t want to take any motorized transportation when walking. Walking to Salcedo is quite a doable stage for most people walking the Invierno. Taking the car option, with the owner coming to pick you up, is a good fallback but it’s really not necessary for most people. Just walk a few more km, it’s on a very untraveled road.

Based on @laineylainey’s experience on the off-road trail from after Barxa de Lor to Salcedo, I don’t think I would recommend that these days! If some intrepid forum member navigates it successfully, please let us know.

And we keep waiting to hear what will happen in A Pobra de Brollón!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Some forum members have been in direct contact with the family that runs Pensión Pacita, and it is open again. It is a good way to break up the Quiroga to Monforte stage.
Quiroga to Pacita, 15. Pacita to Monforte, about 21

The Salcedo option is also very doable.
Quiroga to Salcedo, 21, with a ride from Castroncelos (or 24 if you walk from Castroncelos to Salcedo). Salcedo to Monforte, about 18.

I know that there are a lot of forum members who don’t want to take any motorized transportation when walking. Walking to Salcedo is quite a doable stage for most people walking the Invierno. Taking the car option, with the owner coming to pick you up, is a good fallback but it’s really not necessary for most people. Just walk a few more km, it’s on a very untraveled road.

Based on @laineylainey’s experience on the off-road trail from after Barxa de Lor to Salcedo, I don’t think I would recommend that these days! If some intrepid forum member navigates it successfully, please let us know.

And we keep waiting to hear what will happen in A Pobra de Brollón!

Pensión, ok - but is the café open as well? I never stay the night there but I'd like stop for a café con leche.

 

[AnneMarie1]

So I believe, re the panadería.
So, Thursday stayed in Monforte de Lemos. Interesting town with expensive tourist avenue for restaurants and bars. I stayed at hotel Ribeira Sacra. Modern little gem very close to everything and a great wee breakfast. Yesterday was the long walk to Chantada. It is wonderful with extraordinary views on the way up and then a steep but sheltered woodland descent to the wonderful views of Belesar Bridge across the river Minho. A young peregrino ftom Taiwan treated himseld to a 2 hour boat cruise from Belesar! The biews are breathtaking.
Now fir my bad news. Although Brierley warns about the steep climb into Chantada but suggests that with every step there is a breath taking(literally in my case) view I just found it a really hard slog and every minute or so had to stop to literally breath! It had been over 8 hours waking for me by this stage, so my legs and heart were complaining a bit!
But have to say the Chantada was well worth the effort. What a gorgeous town. Lots of bars, cafes and just lovely housing.
Stayed at the Albergue A posada de Asma which is great. One dormitory, I think 12 beds. 5 bathrooms, 2 men, 2 women , 1 disabled. All with lovely showers. Great kitchen, cooker microwave, fridge freezer, washing machine and dryer. Table and chairs. All very clean. Only problem for this dinosaur was the check in process via a app to get the door code. I hate anything other than a key. Also there is another new ultra modern Albergue called Dpaso, with sleeping pods, though my friend from Taiwan said the bed was a bit hard, mine in posada de asma was lovely and comfy. Supermarkets and plenty of places to eat. All around a really lovely place on the Invierno.
Today's walk was all about climbing yo the highest point on the Invierno, at Monte Faro at 1190m. I was so looking forward to it. The views coming out of Chantada early morning with the early morning mists and light were magnificent. The climb up was a bit steep initially but then the path went around the hill. Then after an hour or two, I found myself descending having followed a mojon pointing to the right just after a but if a steep but unmarked path straight on through the wind turbines. So after about 30 minutes, I realised I had missed the path to both the Ermida do Faro and Monte Faro! I was so disappointed. However now in Histal Carpinterias in Rodeiro, I gave met 3 other peregrinos, only one of them found the oath to Monte Faro and that was by using Google maps. So I now believe it may not be that well signposted because it is not on the Camino path and stupidly I thought it was. I can now see from Brierley's map that the camino veers right from the top and I should have gone straight on through the wind turbines. It's a shame because Ben from Taiwan said the views from Monte Faro, the highest spot on the Invierno, were fantastic!
Still there were lovely views going up.
In Carpinterias would recommend the Albergue, it is really lovely.
Tomorrow last day walking, only to Lalin, then a bus to Santiago.

I stayed at Dpaso and really liked it. Found the beds comfortable!