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Virtual Camino Many Forum members on the Lana

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Bad Pilgrim

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Aha! another cryptic reference to Francisco Patiño (see my post no. 364). But now we are getting a little closer. Can anyone provide a bit more information? My googling efforts led me nowhere relevant.
My googling leads me to someone arrested for health care fraud in the US, someone who is a masters student in Mining in West Virginia, and a patient liaison in a hospital in Houston.

I say, he seems to be an industrious person. It wouldn't surpise me if he had time for health fraud and to take a master degree in Mining in West Virginia as well:

Patiño, Francisco - Xacopedia

And from another source in english:

Francisco Patiño had to make his own way in the world. He set sail for Italy on a ship that was captured by Turks. He was held captive for five long years during which he promised that if he were ever released, he would make a pilgrimage to Santiago to thank God and all the saints for this blessing. He was rescued but time passed, Patiño married in Parma, Italy, and life went on peaceably until his house caught on fire and he, his wife, and their two children were trapped inside. Patiño promised (again) to make the pilgrimage to Santiago if only they were spared. Suddenly, an old man with a kind face, dressed in a long brown robe, carrying a staff and gourd, and wearing a hat with a shell emblazoned with the cross of Santiago appeared in the midst of the flames. The blaze ceased, the house collapsed around Patiño and his wife, but they were safe, a sure miracle. It was July 24th, at 11:30 p.m., just half an hour before the Feast of Santiago, July 25th, was to begin. At last Patiño decided it was time to make good on his promise. (Francisco Patino – Claudia Camina (wordpress.com)
 
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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Patiño was lucky that Santiago is such a forgiving saint. That is a great story! Thank you so much for posting this.

The Spanish link provides more detail and makes it clear why it was that he was on the Lana. For those who don’t read Spanish, I’ll give it a try. But some of the meaning is unclear to me.

Patiño is from Monteagudo, and was on his way by boat as a sailor from Spain to Italy when the Turks attacked. As a prisoner for five years, he was put in the galley of Turkish boats. As luck would have it, his boat was attacked by Christians and he was freed. Then he went to Italy instead of going home and there he married. His children died in the fire, but he and his wife went on pilgrimage together. They walked from Parma through France, and reached Patiño’s hometown of Monteagudo in December. They spent the winter there and then in spring continued to Santiago. On the way home they stopped to pray in a church in Ponte Ulla. A brilliant light shone from the image of Santiago and they were paralyzed temporarily. They interpreted this as a sign from God that they return to Santiago and tell everyone about the miracle that had occurred to them (I think this is referring to the miracle in Italy). The couple went and told the proper church people, but miracle was not revealed to anyone in Santiago. The church kept it silent because the couple was unable to provide an offering of the same magnitude as the miracle that they had received. (again I think that refers to the miracle in Italy, and it must be that before you got your miracle recognized you had to make a big donation to the church!). There was a subsequent investigation and all of these details were recorded (contemporaneously, I believe). Anyway, that’s how his story came to light at the beginning of the 20th century, when a researcher was going through the archives and found the results of the investigation from the early 1600s.

So so interesting, thanks again BP, glad you were able to find the story. Buen camino, Laurie
 

Bad Pilgrim

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
[Is it just me, or is everybody else also amazed at the the depth and breadth of history you can find on an untraveled Camino even in the smallest towns? ]

Yes, I just pondered about that. People have already mentioned the memorial to Francisco Patiño, which you can see here, courtesy of Google:

1609888762726.png

But: there is also a smaller cross on a cubic rock, marking the junction where you leave Monteagudos in the morning. I have found zero information about it on google - now it is your turn to help me!

I think I read an information panel on or next to it, that it is part of an ancient chapel or something, of which only remain a few rocks; the cubic stone that the cross is placed upon. Or maybe I just dreamed all that up. Anyone knows?

EDIT: I found a photo, but no info. See below! And that is where we leave when we set out for Fuentes. The pillar to the left ceremoniously states that this is the Ruta de la Lana that starts from Monteagudo.

1609888399216.png
 
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VNwalking

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Day 14. Monteagudo de las Salinas-Fuentes. 23.4 km.
We're getting we're getting steadily closer to Cuenca. One more sleep and one more walk and we're there.
Here are various Forum impressions of today:
The walk from Monteagudo to Fuentes (24km) was great. Effectively no tarmac from start to finish, except in the villages themselves. No water en route. At first through deep pine forests going steadily up to beautiful open moorland with holm oaks, then down through rolling cereal
The first gate in the woods is the most ridiculous. Previous pilgrims are familiar with the written warnings of the landowner, who has scribbled all over the gate that this is private property and that trespassing will be punished. (And no pilgrim ever cares about it.) Since I was here two years ago, he has reinforced his message with a sign that can only be interpreted as follows: if you dare to walk through the property, evil ninjas will jump out from a tree and take you down, and/or a military device will automatically shoot up from the ground and put a bullet through you. At the same time, the Asociación has stepped up a level and painted many fierce, yellow arrows that explicitly tell you to walk through the gate and continue. I wonder what this battlefield will look like should I happen to come back a third time.

Once in Fuentes, @alansykes says there's a 'cozy' albergue, a CR, and a couple of pensións:
Anyway, hostal Palancares is the perfect hideaway from the heatwave for 25 euros. And Spanish grandmothers are the best...!
If two people happen to coincide in the albergue I would suggest the richer one goes to one of the two pensións or the casa rural in the village, unless they are very good friends, not least as they would have to draw lots for who gets the blanket and who the pillow, as there is only one of each.
But @Undermanager bombed out here:
I got to Fuentes about 1:30pm. The Town Hall was closed, and the Bar / pension Cazadores, where you might be able to get the key was shut up with barriers around the door. None of the phone numbers were being answered and the hostel and bar next door on the main road seemed to be having a party. Everything else was shuttered up. With no accommodation possible, and to be honest, not getting a warm fuzzy feeling about the place anyway, it was either get a bus into town, road hike or just carry on.

This is this is a pretty short stage, but I will need the afternoon to visit this:
(@Bad Pilgrim bombed out here, alas.)

Ok, Lana vets...please flesh this out!
 
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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
What I understand is that the dinosaur attraction in Fuentes is a yacimiento (dig). It has a Centro de Interpretación, and there is a museum is in Cuenca, I think. The finds in Fuentes were pretty incredible — it was discovered during the construction of the AVE train to Valencia. Not sure if the description of it as the most important find in Iberia is hyperbolic or not, but this article describes the finding. There is a Centro de Interpretación in Fuentes.

Another suggestion for those who like longer stages would be to walk Monteagudo to Melgosa (35 km, very flat), where there is Hotel/ Casa Rural. That makes the next day into Cuenca a short 9 km and would essentially give you a rest day in Cuenca.
 
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Flogwail

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
Hmm, I was a little taken aback and wasn't quite sure how to react to the sign. As I was contemplating the decision to open the gate and be shot on sight or find another way, the landowner appeared from inside driving a jeep and gestured for me to enter and continue...a surreal encounter that left me scratching my head...
But it was a lovely peaceful walk, through the estate and beyond to Fuentes
 

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Flogwail

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
In Fuentes, I called into the busy bar to see about the key and by the time the hospitalero showed up, I was 4 beers deep. The albergue attached to the church across the road was indeed very basic, and when the hospitalero held open the door of the wardrobe showing an inch of dust on the shelves, offering proudly: " Por tu ropa!" I smiled to myself at the suggestion... I've never as a pilgrim, felt the need to hang my clothes in a wardrobe, even a clean one! But the place served it's purpose and I slept well after another visit to the bar later...
 

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Year of past OR future Camino
SJPDP to SdC (2011-13-14-17). Norte (15). Mozárabe Almería-Merida (18) Guimaraes to SdC, F + M (18)
Maggie and I walked through the ‘forbidden’ estate Finca Navarramiro too – a very pleasant walk, I even spotted some deer in the forest. But it was a really scary sign on that gate, and had I been alone I would happily have taken a detour around the huge estate. It wasn’t until we saw a car passing us (and not being shot at) that I could finally relax and enjoy the walk.

I couldn’t help making a gif file of the sign, but I’m not sure I should post it here on this friendly forum. What do you think? :eek:


I know from her vlog that Sara Dhooma did not enter, but went another way around. I have no idea how much longer (shorter?) it is to not pass through the estate, or where the options reunite. It would be nice to compare!
Sara did enter together with Carlos. I think it was somewhere else on the La Lana that had to be detoured...
 
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Yes, it was a bit ominous! Did you two stay at the 2 bed albergue in Fuentes?
Yes we did. It must qualify as the exact opposite of a Parador; but who needs luxury, eh?

For those of you who have yet to experience a stay at the tiny, dusty albergue with the two beds in Fuentes: you will find it behind the window on the left hand corner of the church …

Fuentes_albergue-in-church.jpg
 

AJGuillaume

Pèlerin du monde
Year of past OR future Camino
Via Gebennensis (2018)
Via Podiensis (2018)
Voie Nive Bidassoa (2018)
Camino Del Norte (2018)
Once in Fuentes, @alansykes says there's a 'cozy' albergue, a CR, and a couple of pensións
Given that we are slow walkers, by the time we get to Fuentes, the two beds in the albergue would be taken. So we'll settle for Los Palancares or the Pensión Los Cazadores.

This is this is a pretty short stage, but I will need the afternoon to visit this:
http://www.dinosauriosdecuenca.es/
This is a "just about getting to the limit for slow walkers" stage ;). We'll probably arrive towards the end of the afternoon to see the Centro de Interpretación Ruta de los Dinosaurios de Cuenca, which is in Fuentes. The main dinosaur museum is the Museo de Paleontología de Castilla-La Mancha, which is, as @peregrina2000 alluded to, in Cuenca.

And if we arrive late, we'll still get to see a life size statue of a dinosaur in Fuentes ☺️ :
 
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Please do it - I imagine you mean the the bullet, or the masked attacker, will come alive - I would like to see that! 😄
EDIT: And I expect a dinosaur gif moving around in Cuenca/on the trail on the next stage!!

All right, all right ... but I have to disappoint when it comes to a live dinosaur. Maybe another disappearing Oruju?

La-Mancha.gif
 

Bad Pilgrim

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
This is one of the stages where I felt the most isolated from civilization. (But the worst one is yet to come.) If there is no people at Navarramiro (the center of the estate), you will be alone for 23 kms. Bring food & water. Since we are at 1000-1200 mtrs altitude, I imagine the weather to be harsh in some seasons. I've seen pictures of Montegaudo in snow: I wouldn't like to be caught in a blizzard in those woods...!

Check your cell phone: mine went on strike for 90 % of that stretch. The connection is bad up there, should you need help.

there's a 'cozy' albergue, a CR, and a couple of pensións

Hostal Los Palancares: recommended. The owners work in the first bar when you enter Fuentes (on your left at the entrance to town) and the rooms themselves are in another building.

Another suggestion for those who like longer stages would be to walk Monteagudo to Melgosa (35 km, very flat), where there is Hotel/ Casa Rural. That makes the next day into Cuenca a short 9 km and would essentially give you a rest day in Cuenca.

Walking the 40+ kms from Monteagudo to Cuenca is not an impossible feat either. Fuentes would then be half-way to target and (sorry for jumping ahead) the next stage has a bar in La Melgosa (at least in summer). And the part from Fuentes is such easy walking. Yes one would arrive late in Cuenca... But perhaps take the next day as a rest day.
 

VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés ('14/'15)
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Baztanés/CF ('17)
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Day 15. Fuentes - Cuenca. 18.77 km.
(Rest day in Cuenca)
Today I'm short on time and my connection is patchy, but did not want to let this fall between the cracks! So all I will say is to post the stage, and say, "Discuss."

With Cuenca being a natural rest day (or starting place) there will be plenty to share. But first, let's cover the ground and get there for before getting too involved in the details of Cuenca itself.
 

Bad Pilgrim

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Easy walking and nice countryside today!

Shortly after leaving Fuentes there is a couple of lagoons, pretty small but with many birds. We better not leave in pitch dark or we will miss them along the way. Then a beautiful walk up the hill Atalaya de Cuenca where there is a farm. Looking back from where we came is pretty. Rolling hills again, at least compared to flat-flat-flat. Even in summer it looked nice. With greenery and flowers in spring it must be even better.

Earlier, the only obstacle for the day was a field where you had to walk straight out amongst the crops until reaching the other side after 600 mtrs. It's still indicated in the Asociation's guide: "el cruce campo a través por una zona de cultivo entre las localidades de Fuentes y Mohorte". But since at least 2019 there is no trace of this way. The arrows take us to Mohorte on a regular dirt road without problems. I kind of miss the walk amongst the crops: it felt like an adventure walking right into the field not knowing where I would end up. Although in rain I guess it would turn into the Mother of all Mud.

There is a large fuente right before Mohorte. I don't think there is a bar in Mohorte, but La Melgosa is just a few kms away. These places are small and I don't know if the bars are open all year round.

When we leave La Melgosa and reach the N-420, we turn counter-intuitively away from Cuenca to cross the road further to the right. Then a sharp turn back to the left and then a walk right into the countryside with few or no arrows: here the Camino takes you in any direction except towards Cuenca! Only after a few kms do we turn left and head for the city. I guess the Asociación want to get us as far away as possible from the N-420. This makes the arrival to Cuenca pretty boring. The countryside stops abruptly, Salamanca-style, and we are suddenly in the grey suburbs of Cuenca. We have to walk for a while before entering the nicer parts of town.

I have only heard good things about the albergue so I guess it is top notch. Personally I have never been there, only at: Pensión Ángel. (15 euros.) Because it is easy to find and I can walk there in no time. The rooms are small and cramped - I guess that's what you get for 15 euros - but at least it is next to the Camino, which makes for an easy start the next day!
 
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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Thanks for posting the next stage. All the wikiloc tracks I’ve seen, as well as @magwood’s report, indicate that it’s about 24 km. The 6 km difference from what you’ve posted is a little higher than the usual variations we see. Where did you get the distance, VN?

If 24 is accurate, then those who like shorter days, might want to stop in the Vaquería place I linked to earlier, which would then give a 9 km day into Cuenca.

Based on the pictures and descriptions from other forum members, it looks like nice terrain, flat, a bit varied, only bar possibility in Melgosa.

My preference would be to walk in 9km from Melgosa, to essentially have a rest day in Cuenca, or to do the long Monteagudo - Cuenca stage that BP recommends, and then stay for two nights.

Info about tourist attractions in Cuenca is easy to find, so what I would really like to hear are first hand recommendations. I have been there before and stayed in the parador, which is in 16C convent in an incredible spot. It‘s a terrific place for a view back to the city and is no more than a 15 minute walk into town. The other view I would very much like to see is ithe one @Undermanager captured in his thread. I think a walk up above the center is a not-to-be-missed opportunity (unless you have torrential downpours all day as poor @Magwood and @nijna did). There are three miradores there, all very close to each other.

I had done some hunting for a cheap-ish pensión, on the theory that if I spent two nights there, I would rather not move from albergue to pensión, but some have mentioned that a two night stay in the albergue is sometimes possible. For inexpensive pensión, I thought Hostal San Pedro looked good.

I’ve attached a screen shot showing where the hostal is and the miradores. You can also see the location of the parador.

536F7D22-D733-455F-8E13-E198E9D5FB95.png
 
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Bad Pilgrim

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
All the wikiloc tracks I’ve seen, as well as @magwood’s report, indicate that it’s about 24 km. The 6 km difference from what you’ve posted is a little higher than the usual variations we see.

21,6 according to the Asociación! But I guess Wikiloc is more correct, if corroborated by several people.
 

Flogwail

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
I have only heard good things about the albergue
I can recommend the albergue. Note that in Kevin O'Brien's guide he mentions it's on Calle Mateo Miguel Ayllon but it's actually a couple of streets away on Calle Colôn. Luis is a most accommodating hospitalero and takes great care of the albergue. He's very proud of the place and has a lot of camino experience to draw from. He very kindly helped me out in the university library next door where he works: When faced with dealing with a long distance crisis at home, I had to scan, print and email a load of documents which took over an hour. I couldn't have sorted it on my own, it was a stressful business and I was grateful for his help.

I met him by chance again just 3 months ago as I rambled up through Portugal when covid cases were quite low in September...it was just north of Tomar. I thought he looked familiar but couldn't place him at first! We walked a few days together as far as Cernache where his walk ended and he returned to Cuenca...
 
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VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Year of past OR future Camino
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Shortly after leaving Fuentes there is a couple of lagoons, pretty small but with many birds.
A pleasant day's walking from Fuentes, and bursting with wildlife in spring, here is one of the lagoons...
Here you go:
La localidad de Fuentes hace honor a su nombre ya que en ella existen numerosos manantiales, incluyendo el nacimiento del río Moscas. Toda esta circulación subterránea del agua ha disuelto el terreno yesoso dando lugar a once dolinas, de las cuales nueve mantienen agua de forma permanente.
Paisajísticamente destacan la laguna de los Cedazos y la laguna Negra, mientras que desde el punto de vista geológico resulta sorprendente que la fecha de aparición de la última dolina en los ojos de la Corva sea el año 2009.

This looks like a fantastic place. And it is the sort of place where I would say to anyone walking with me, You go ahead, I'll see you in Cuenca." (Unless of course that person was @Theatregal, in which case we would be planning an early morning so we could spend a bunch of time here checking out the local feathered residents.)


The 6 km difference from what you’ve posted is a little higher than the usual variations we see. Where did you get the distance, VN?
That was that was the measurement from my OSMand app, following the track of the Camino. Hmmmm. ???
 

Flogwail

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
I'm afraid I've nothing more useful to contribute to this thread as Cuenca was to be my last stage of the Lana. After twelve days of solitary walking, I decided to take the bus to Madrid to visit my dying friend (she sadly passed away 2 months later) and then on to Burgos with a heavy heart where I began walking again... 36 more days of wandering around Spain... across the meseta to Leon, over the Salvador to Oviedo, the bus to Irun to walk the Norte to Santander, then on up to the Somport Pass to walk back down across the Aragones to Puenta La Reine... all of them wonderful ways, eventful and interesting as caminos invariably are, but I felt the Lana was especially so and it stuck with me, this thread brought it back .
It was a challenge more than usual; every day walking in solitude without meeting a single other pilgrim to share with, some cold and uncomfortable nights and hardly a word of spoken english anywhere, but poor as my Spanish is, it never really held me back and I encountered nothing but kindness and humility from locals along the way; an umbrella from the landlady of a bar who insisted I take it with me when I only stopped for a quick coffee while waiting for a shower to pass, a baker who came out the door after me and pushed a little bag of cakes into my hand to make me 'strong for the walk', a mobile food vendor beeping his way through a village who wouldn't accept any money for fruit and countless other simple gestures from people leaving me smiling for days after. Oh, and who could forget all the rabbits, literally thousands and thousands of them!
I hope to pick it up again and continue to Burgos one day, but for now I will lament and follow the rest of the way here on this thread. The Lana is probably not for first timers, or those who crave company, there is a certain melancholy about it, but it is indeed a beautiful way...
 
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VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
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So, Cuenca as a rest day...any words of wisdom from the old Lana hands?

It looks like a wonderful place.
Check out these photos;

I am distracted by some of the nearby natural parks, so if I had time it might be a nice place to linger for a while and take some side trips up there into the mountains.
 
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I recommend the Green River Hostel, Av Virgen de la Luz, 15,16002 Cuenca. Breakfast was in the price. Laundry, dryer. In the next street over from the camino albergue. Across the road from the Río Júcar. Right on the bus route to the distance trains station if you're leaving the camino here (there is another right in town). Just clarify which way the bus is going before hopping on.

Yes, fantastic walking and the ratio of important church buildings is high, many restored and put to alternative use.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
The stage is not too long for slow walkers, but it looks like we will appreciate a rest day to discover this city.
Amazing what drones can do! If I hadn’t seen the car moving at the beginning of the video, I would have thought it was a fake model city!

Looks like an interesting octagonal church, Iglesia San Pedro. I did a bit of reading, and not much is original from the 12th century. I read that the views from the bell tower is spectacular, as the church is in the high part of town.

I recommend the Green River Hostel,
@Bernice M, is there a reason you chose a private hostel over the albergue?
 
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Flogwail

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
Hola. Here’s your stamp! And I give you Louis too. He is concentrating very much to register our names and he even draws your country’s flag making it the coolest albergue registration book of all Caminos.

View attachment 91195

View attachment 91196
I had forgotten about that, the coloured-in registration book in that lovely albergue! Here is Luis more recently in Portugal, he has walked many times!
 

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Raggy

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2017, 2018, 2019
My burning question is what is that huge pink building near the cathedral,
Is it the same as the one in the google earth screenshot below? If so, we're looking at the convento de las petras. (Convento de San Pedro de las Justinianas).

I thought the dusty pink was perfect. As the wikipedia page says, it's an otherwise austere facade.
and how much grief did the owner get from everybody else in town for painting it that color?
None. The neighbors in the square painted their own walls in colors to complement it. Reminds me of some streets in Notting Hill or San Francisco.
 

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VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
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Here's a screenshot, is it the same one? You can't miss it, that's for sure, nor the other gaudy colors on the plaza!
😄
 

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C clearly

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Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Here you go:
This looks like a fantastic place.
The Camino seems to coincide fairly closely with the sendero shown in this map. Am I correct?
I am distracted by some of the nearby natural parks, so if I had time it might be a nice place to linger for a while and take some side trips up there into the mountains.

BP tells us that the “real” second half of the Lana starts in Monteagudo... but we are already in Cuenca. Why don’t we finish up with Cuenca...? ...Then, VN, could... start a Part II Lana thread from Cuenca to Burgos
I think that's a good idea. I am more interested in the second half of the Lana, than the first. Maybe I'd arrive in Spain, spend a couple of days acclimatizing in Cuenca, and then start on the Lana II. It would be nice to gather some more information about the Cuenca sights and natural parks - more than enough to keep me busy for a few days!
 

peregrina2000

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I don’t think that anyone has mentioned what is probably a very obvious thing to see in Cuenca, the casas colgadas (hanging houses). The best way to see them is from the bridge on the way over to the parador, and if you like abstract art, the Spanish museum of Arte Abstracto is located in one of them. I know this is more of a romanesque crowd, but I’m guessing there are some members who would enjoy this place.

@VN has already found the Paleontology Museum. A little out of the center, but not too far.

@islandwalker will want to visit the archaeological museum. Right in the center.

The cathedral is gothic, its museum is in a 13-16C espiscopal palace and looks like it would be interesting.

And I found a nice hotel, but not as much of a splurge as the parador, in a 17th century convent. Right in the casco histórico.

Ok, and now let’s get walking again!
 

VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés ('14/'15)
San Olav/CF ('16)
Baztanés/CF ('17)
Ingles ('18)
Vasco/CF/Invierno ('19)
@islandwalker will want to visit the archaeological museum. Right in the center.
Me too!

Ok, and now let’s get walking again!
Haha...Not until we've had a decent meal!
Michelin has 3 listings, since we seem to be splurging:
 
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