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Maremma sheep dogs on VF

Pilgrim 122

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
currently walking Rome to Santiago
I am planning on walking from Rome to Santiago. I have encountered loads on dogs in Italy walking to Rome (VF to Lucca then Way of St Francis) and even more walking from Rome to Monte Sant'Angelo. Throughout the day small groups running out of remote farms and houses barking at me. I dont like dogs and am quite scared but had managed well until two large wild dogs came out of a disused building on a footpath in the middle of nowhere and were barking and growling at me. I was terrified. Fortunately i was not not harmed but rather traumatised and had to take the bus the next two days. I am now am hesitant to walk any more. I understand there are the large Maremma sheep dogs guarding their flocks on the latter parts of the VF. I was hoping to find out which sections others pilgrims had come across them so I could either walk on the main road or take a bus/ taxi for that stage. I am aware that i will meet dogs throughout the pilgrimage but i would particularly like to avoid these in the first leg of the pilgrimage, which i will be doing in 3 week sections, to give me the confidence to try the rest. any information will be greatly appreciated.
 
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I am planning on walking from Rome to Santiago. I have encountered loads on dogs in Italy walking to Rome (VF to Lucca then Way of St Francis) and even more walking from Rome to Monte Sant'Angelo. Throughout the day small groups running out of remote farms and houses barking at me. I dont like dogs and am quite scared but had managed well until two large wild dogs came out of a disused building on a footpath in the middle of nowhere and were barking and growling at me. I was terrified. Fortunately i was not not harmed but rather traumatised and had to take the bus the next two days. I am now am hesitant to walk any more. I understand there are the large Maremma sheep dogs guarding their flocks on the latter parts of the VF. I was hoping to find out which sections others pilgrims had come across them so I could either walk on the main road or take a bus/ taxi for that stage. I am aware that i will meet dogs throughout the pilgrimage but i would particularly like to avoid these in the first leg of the pilgrimage, which i will be doing in 3 week sections, to give me the confidence to try the rest. any information will be greatly appreciated.
Hello @Pilgrim 122 It is an interesting question and a common worry.

I walked VF to Rome then on to Brindisi and then through Albania and North Macedonia to Greece.
I met many dogs!

You mention that you remember meeting more dogs on the way from Rome to Monte St Angelo and I think that my experience would be that the numbers of dogs increase considerably after Rome, on the (so-called) VF del Sud, and this is partly due to the fact that the path is relatively remote and less travelled, at least in parts, so you are more likely to meet dogs in their own environment. But I note that you did have worrying experiences before Rome. And encounters with large working dogs were daily or more often in Albania and N Macedonia.

I don't remember any particular problems from Lucca to Rome. Although I am not naturally a dog lover, I can cope generally. And I would say it is not the Maremma which are the main problem. Genuine working dogs with a large flock will generally be with their shepherd. I found this nearly always in southern Italy and through Albania and N Macedonia. My practice was always simply to stop and stand. And wait. And this can take a long time and walk backwards if necessary.

I know other people will tell their own experiences, but I found that no dog ever attacked me, out of literally hundreds. Once a shepherd sees you, your problems are over. He, or she, will call the dogs. I spoke to dozens of shepherds and found them universally kind. With large flocks, the shepherd will not be far away.

Much more problematic are dogs guarding property. They are not so disciplined. Again I found if I did nothing they always eventually stopped. I never threw a stone or raised a stick - many people will advise you to do this, but I didn't. Nor did I ever carry any kind of deterrent.

The section from Lucca to Rome would certainly be the most walked section of the VF and because of the numbers of people walking, I think you would not have too much problem. Having said that I know that you are quite reasonably anxious, but I think where there are lots of walkers on an established path, there are less sheep and less dogs.

There is a helpful 'official' video from Swiss tourism about how to deal with working dogs in the mountains but I cannot find it just now. I will keep looking. this is one:
but there is another one with English dialogue.

Edit: here is the longer video

I hope that as your first leg towards Santiago will be the most busy section you should not have serious problems. It sounds a wonderful walk!

Walking 'backwards' over that stretch, you will meet lots of people, some of whom will be anxious to tell you you are going in the wrong direction! :) You can always ask them if they have seen any dogs if you are in a quieter area.
 
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Hello timr, thank you for your help and advice. I am always reassured to see the owner of the dogs, it's the unattended ones which are more of a worry. The video was helpful, I always shout stop! basta! etc at the dogs in an authoritative manner (even though I'm scared) and try to carry on but it seems this is not the best approach. The map showing areas where animals are grazing in Switzerland is excellent. That's what I need for Italy!
My last pilgrimage was very isolated but you are right there should be people coming the other way walking to Rome in April that I can ask if they have seen any dogs and that would help me plan.
 
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Hello timr, thank you for your help and advice. I am always reassured to see the owner of the dogs, it's the unattended ones which are more of a worry. The video was helpful, I always shout stop! basta! etc at the dogs in an authoritative manner (even though I'm scared) and try to carry on but it seems this is not the best approach. The map showing areas where animals are grazing in Switzerland is excellent. That's what I need for Italy!
My last pilgrimage was very isolated but you are right there should be people coming the other way walking to Rome in April that I can ask if they have seen any dogs and that would help me plan.
Yes, the Swiss as you can imagine take it seriously. :) In a very good way. I have not seen those maps anywhere else.
I hope you are not too put off by the talk of bears, wolves and lynx. I don't think the VF is anywhere near those areas.
It does show that despite their huge size it is generally not the Maremma which is your problem. It is the 'freelancers'! I did have a hair-raising encounter in the east of Albania one day with six really big dogs surrounding me, but NOT attacking me. But the shepherd appeared in a few minutes and all was well. Trained dogs are really well-behaved and as the Swiss video says, just really doing there job.
And there is some truth in the oft-quoted statement that there are some bands of abandoned pets roaming free in Greece. A guesthouse owner in Greece told me about her concerns for her young children. But I don't think it is a widespread as some of the sensational headlines make out. It may have been worse after the financial crash some years ago.
If it is any encouragement, I am not a natural dog lover and would be to an extent scared. But I do endeavour to believe that they don't actually hate me, and there is no need for me to threaten them. I know that is not easy. But it has worked for me.
I am envious of your plan. I hope it will work out well for you.
 
You have certainly had some nasty encounters with dogs! I certainly won't be going for any walk in Albania.
I've not even thought about bears or wolves I presume they are in remoter areas.
Thank you for your encouragement, I was seriously considering hanging up my hiking stick for good. I usually go away in February, April and October for 2 - 3 weeks and I know if I don't go in April that will be it because Its going to take a few years to walk to Santiago the way I am doing it.
I am going to keep an eye on the forum for pilgrims walking this section of the VF after Easter and try and have some contacts who are on the route at the same time as me.
 
You're walking from Rome to Santiago, so I assume that means crossing France. I walked the LePuy camino a few years ago and hardly saw a dog. They are behind fences or otherwise restrained. I was told that the current state of French law is such that owners worry about liability from dog bites. I don't think you'll have a problem in France, at least.
You have two means of self-defense at your disposal: your walking stick and capsicum spray.
In Australia the dingos are wild but often habituated to humans. They like to test people by nipping at their heels. You raise your stick and they take off. Most dogs know humans can sting.
I live in bear country and I carry bear spray when I go walking. It's a form of pepper spray. There's also a formulation meant for dogs. Postmen and joggers carry it. I don't believe it hurts the dog. Some authorities consider it a weapon, so you might have to source it according to local laws (that is, in a local hiking store rather than online). But here's an example:

 
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My practice was always simply to stop and stand. And wait. And this can take a long time and walk backwards if necessary.
I am curious - are you waiting until the dogs and flock move completely out of your path? (Or maybe until the shepherd indicates you should proceed.)
 
In a slightly different context, approaching the campsites of any of my folk I’ll stand still as soon as the dogs have sighted me. I’ll advance if they don’t. As soon as they do I’ll stand still. No eye contact, no gestures. If the camp doesn’t call them off I’ll know I’m not welcome and slowly back away. They’re a bit like the bouncers outside a club - respect should be mutual
 
I am curious - are you waiting until the dogs and flock move completely out of your path? (Or maybe until the shepherd indicates you should proceed.)
Yes either of those.

I remember stopping for maybe 30mins for a huge flock to pass in North Macedonia, just after crossing the border and I had no option but to take that road.

I'm never really in a hurry 😉.

In open country my experience - and I'm taking of many, many dozens of encounters - is that the shepherd will hear if the dogs are barking. He or she may be 300m away and may have been sleeping, but it is a partnership. Scan around and you'll see them stirring. And (s)he'll see you very quickly.
I met a man south of Rome one day who spoke a heavily accented dialect of Italian which I found hard to follow. He spoke to both his dogs and his sheep with clicks and whistles and they did exactly what he said! They were like a family. No danger whatever.

IMG_2977.JPG


For troublesome unattached dogs (sometimes a dozen) I did just wait (and wait and wait) until (I believe) they came to the conclusion I was not threatening them. All I can say is, truthfully, it always worked. Which is not to say it is not scary at times.

I was scared here, when I saw the man with the axe....
 
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I am planning on walking from Rome to Santiago. I have encountered loads on dogs in Italy walking to Rome (VF to Lucca then Way of St Francis) and even more walking from Rome to Monte Sant'Angelo. Throughout the day small groups running out of remote farms and houses barking at me. I dont like dogs and am quite scared but had managed well until two large wild dogs came out of a disused building on a footpath in the middle of nowhere and were barking and growling at me. I was terrified. Fortunately i was not not harmed but rather traumatised and had to take the bus the next two days. I am now am hesitant to walk any more. I understand there are the large Maremma sheep dogs guarding their flocks on the latter parts of the VF. I was hoping to find out which sections others pilgrims had come across them so I could either walk on the main road or take a bus/ taxi for that stage. I am aware that i will meet dogs throughout the pilgrimage but i would particularly like to avoid these in the first leg of the pilgrimage, which i will be doing in 3 week sections, to give me the confidence to try the rest. any information will be greatly appreciated.
Dogs can be a problem, especially feral ones. If they attack within the length of your pole, stab them. Carbide tips are formidable. I fended off a pack of 6 farm dogs in France this way.
 
Hello, I have completed the first part of my pilgrimage now from Rome to Colle Val d'Elsa and thought I would report back since I started this thread. I am pleased to say I had no problems with any dogs. It is the least I have been barked at on a pilgrimage for ages! There were a few barking dogs that were tied up and one dog which came out of the driveway, more to say to hello than scare me. I saw and heard the sheep dogs a couple of times, with the sheep, in a field with a fence around it so no problems there . Thanks to those who encouraged me especially timr. I was ready to hang up my walking pole. I am so glad I went , it was great and now I am ready to think about the next leg.
 
Hello, I have completed the first part of my pilgrimage now from Rome to Colle Val d'Elsa and thought I would report back since I started this thread. I am pleased to say I had no problems with any dogs. It is the least I have been barked at on a pilgrimage for ages! There were a few barking dogs that were tied up and one dog which came out of the driveway, more to say to hello than scare me. I saw and heard the sheep dogs a couple of times, with the sheep, in a field with a fence around it so no problems there . Thanks to those who encouraged me especially timr. I was ready to hang up my walking pole. I am so glad I went , it was great and now I am ready to think about the next leg.
Delighted to hear this. It has always been my experience and I am naturally wary of dogs!
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

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