May 2023- First Time - Camino Primitivo?

[ClaytonR]

Hello,

New to the forum. My name is Clayton and a pilgrimage trip has been on my bucket list for as long as can remember. I'm finally ready to go and I'm planning on May 2023. I'll have 30 days hopefully and am still trying to settle on a route. I really like the challenge of the Camino Primitivo but part of me just wants to start with the traditional Camino Frances. Knowing myself, I'll be returning again.

 

[MichaelC]

Welcome! I met people on the Frances whose first camino was the Primitivo, and they really enjoyed it. I'd say go for it - it sounds beautiful!

 

[Quietways]

Hi Clayton. I did the Frances this past November and the Primitivo in January - they're wildly different - from ladnscape to trail conditions to infrastructure. Those differences will appeal to some and not to others.

For me the Primitvio is my least favorite of my caminos. I have super nice memories of locals met, of large Asturian dogs angrily woofing in the darkness and then appearing out of nowhere only to start wagging tails for cuddles ( not the outcome I expected But the actual walking - was the least enjoyable of my caminos (I felt it poorly designed w/ excessive busy road walking, poor signage, some sketchy sections that require care for the beginner - and overall wasn't the beautiful mountain landscape I'd expected. (for context Im in mountains often- and this was January - so solo walking, shorter days, very limited options for food, water and accommodation).

In general if you have just moderate outdoor experience and good condition, you'll be find it an easy to comfotable go. For someone without,you'll get stronger enroute as you would with any camino - but unlike the Frances, the Primitivo goes up or down...there's vey little level. So that improvement needs to ramp up a bit quicker It's considered the most difficult camino for a reason...

For a first camino (depending on your condition) I wouldn't recommend it. In January I met only two other walkers- and this was thier first.. For one, an ordeal almost from the start (we stayed in contact throughout by text).and they needed to skip the middle sections altogether. The other was walking well into the night to finish their stages (which was super impressive - finding her route with headlamp through the more mountainous stages). So it was challenging - but I know both of them were so glad to have done it.

If you have an inkling to do the Frances, then I'd say go with that. But the takeaway here - for anyone doing their first camino - is to listen to your SELF - in the end it's your camino, not mine or anyone else's and there will be reason you chose it.

Wishing you a wonderful camino!

buen camino!

 

[antepacem]

If you have 30 days to walk, then you can do some of both! Getting from camino route to camino route is super easy once you're in Spain, so you could always start on the Frances and then see whether you wanted to shift gears and spend the last 8-12 days on the Primitivo (depending on how many kms you like to do a day). A good place to hop routes would be Léon; there are trains running to Oviedo daily (about 2.5 hours) and you could do the Primitivo from there. In any case, you have options and can listen to your body and spirit once you're there and in the groove.

For my part, I loved the Primitivo. It was quiet and contemplative and much less travelled. I loved the foothills of the Picos and getting to spend lots of time in Asturias. I did go in late September, though, so it might not be as quiet in the spring/summer.

 

[LTfit]

Hi Clayton. I did the Frances this past November and the Primitivo in January - they're wildly different - from ladnscape to trail conditions to infrastructure. Those differences will appeal to some and not to others.

For me the Primitvio is my least favorite of my caminos. I have super nice memories of locals met, of large Asturian dogs angrily woofing in the darkness and then appearing out of nowhere only to start wagging tails for cuddles ( not the outcome I expected But the actual walking - was the least enjoyable of my caminos (I felt it poorly designed w/ excessive busy road walking, poor signage, some sketchy sections that require care for the beginner - and overall wasn't the beautiful mountain landscape I'd expected. (for context Im in mountains often- and this was January - so solo walking, shorter days, very limited options for food, water and accommodation).

In general if you have just moderate outdoor experience and good condition, you'll be find it an easy to comfotable go. For someone without,you'll get stronger enroute as you would with any camino - but unlike the Frances, the Primitivo goes up or down...there's vey little level. So that improvement needs to ramp up a bit quicker It's considered the most difficult camino for a reason...

For a first camino (depending on your condition) I wouldn't recommend it. In January I met only two other walkers- and this was thier first.. For one, an ordeal almost from the start (we stayed in contact throughout by text).and they needed to skip the middle sections altogether. The other was walking well into the night to finish their stages (which was super impressive - finding her route with headlamp through the more mountainous stages). So it was challenging - but I know both of them were so glad to have done it.

If you have an inkling to do the Frances, then I'd say go with that. But the takeaway here - for anyone doing their first camino - is to listen to your SELF - in the end it's your camino, not mine or anyone else's and there will be reason you chose it.

Wishing you a wonderful camino!

buen camino!

It sounds like you walked a different Primitivo than I did. Of course that may be due to the fact that you walked it in January (something I would never suggest to anyone given the mountains and closures of albergues in the winter).

Now to play the devil's advocate, I love the Primitivo! I've walked it April 2019 and June 2021 (after the San Salvador). The signage was great, lots of variation in terrain (yes, every day up and down) and good accommodations (I stayed in albergues). But if you have 30 days I would suggest a different Camino. I've walked 13 or 14 different routes, the Francés being my first. I usually recommend the Francés for a first timer but the Via de la Plata would also be great in May although it is 1000 km so longer than the Francés.
Another possibility is the Norte from Irún then cross over to the Primitivo at Villaviciosa. Lots of pilgrims do that.

So many choices but either way there will be many pilgrims walking in May.

Ultreia!

 

[Vagabonder]

Hi Clayton, my husband and I plan to do the Primitivo starting May 3. We have not walked the Camino Francés so can’t compare them, but my husband doesn’t want to be gone more than three weeks so decided that we can do the Primitivo easily within that timeframe. We plan to walk it in 15 days, taking our time so we can visit the lovely towns will go through. Also are on the older side, 68 and 72.
We walked the Chemin du Puy-en-Velay last fall and loved it. We’re hoping that the number of pilgrims on the way will be similar, people to converse with at the table but not a huge number. That’s what we loved about walking in France.

 

[dbier]

Hi there. I've only walked Sarria-Santiago, but am hoping to walk the Primitivo in Sept 2023.
If you're looking at a full 30 days (wow, go you!), you have quite a few options, depending on your desired levels of people interaction, infrastructure, and scenery.
- Frances seems doable in 30 days if you start from Pamplona or later (from my reading).
- Primitivo is certainly doable, and depending on your adventure level, you could do as the poster above suggested and walk part of the Frances to Leon, then bus up to Oviedo. If you take the Primitivo, you'll join the Frances in Melide, and come in the rest of the way on the Frances.
- Or you could add the Camino Salvador on to the Primitivo, or start somewhere on the Norte and then swing down to Oviedo.
- You could spend a couple of days in Oviedo, Lugo, and Santiago, if you wanted rest days.
I would strongly recommend that you leave a couple of days in Santiago on your itinerary, because getting your Compostela/Certificate of Distance and attending the Pilgrim's Mass can be challenging to do in one day
(Note: especially if you arrive on a day like July 24th, 2021 - the day before St James Feast Day. I waited hours on queue for a number to come back and get my Compostela, and more hours to get into any Mass at all. But those were unusual circumstances. )
- Finally, you could add an additional 3-5 days onto the end for either Finisterra or Muxia.

Buen Camino!

 

[Quietways]

It sounds like you walked a different Primitivo than I did. Of course that may be due to the fact that you walked it in January (something I would never suggest to anyone given the mountains and closures of albergues in the winter).

Well I think it's expected some will like a camino, while others might not. Again some nice memories, but certainly not the most beautiful camino for me. All my caminos have been in Winter - (which is an excellent time to walk the Frances by the way). But descending ugly fire roads cut into mountainside and walking pavement at length up steep grades w/ cars whizzing by wasn't especially satisfying. I do think Lugo was wonderful And agree the season can make a world of difference (or at least I imagine so) but it won't change "trail" construction or routing. In the end it just depends on your experience and expectations.

Now to play the devil's advocate, I love the Primitivo! I've walked it April 2019 and June 2021 (after the San Salvador). The signage was great, lots of variation in terrain (yes, every day up and down) and good accommodations (I stayed in albergues). But if you have 30 days I would suggest a different Camino. I've walked 13 or 14 different routes, the Francés being my first. I usually recommend the Francés for a first timer but the Via de la Plata would also be great in May although it is 1000 km so longer than the Francés.
Another possibility is the Norte from Irún then cross over to the Primitivo at Villaviciosa. Lots of pilgrims do that.

So many choices but either way there will be many pilgrims walking in May.

Ultreia!

 

[ClaytonR]

Thanks to all of you for the great info. I have lived in and hiked in the mountains of the Western US for the last 20 years, and don't expect that I would struggle too much with the Primitivo. But, it appears my wife may be open to going with me! That means the Primitivo is probably not the best option for her. I'm reading about the Northern route now, but I just feel like the Frances maybe feels right for the first trip.