Medieval pilgrim

[domigee]

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-35108393

No goretex shoes or technical Ts for him

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Even he brings deodorant! Now, I wonder what he plans on doing for blisters?

 

[Kiwi-family]

Now, I wonder what he plans on doing for blisters?

Probably sheep wool and pig fat.

 

[SYates]

And he takes an iPad to write a blog SY

 

[Rob the Slob]

Cloak - a waterproof woollen cloak which weighs two stone

If I ever hear someone complaining that "real pilgrims don't use hiking poles/GPS/e-readers/smartwool and don't stay in hotels/catch the occasional bus/eat in Michelin-starred restaurants", I'll ask them where their two-stone cloak is.

 

[tyrrek]

Is there anyone in the area who could furnish him with a couple of bottles of mead on Christmas Day?

 

[AlwynWellington]

I recognise his lovely lavender body garment. It looks remarkably like a Robe Towel from Cascade Designs. Made of some microfibre material.

 

[wayfarer]

And he takes an iPad to write a blog SY

He could have taken some parchment and a goose feather quill instead!

 

[tyrrek]

Probably a stupid question but I wonder how you can make a wollen coat waterproof?

Aquascutum made a name for themselves (literally) by doing it. Not in the Middle Ages though.

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

let loose the wild wolves, i say

 

[Pete Hohmann]

Wow! And he's doing it in winter with only a 2 stone cloak. The guy really does have two stones!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I recognise his lovely lavender body garment. It looks remarkably like a Robe Towel from Cascade Designs. Made of some microfibre material.

Now therés an idea to lower the weight of onés backpack: you use it as a towel, coat, and afternoon lounging around town clothes

 

[David]

Lovely stuff - though, I do wish that he had left his electronics behind. He says that he is hoping for a time of reflection, possibly with finding a clear way forward in his life - but he will not get that if he is connected to the outside world, keeping in touch with friends, writing blogs, etc .... he seems to have worked hard on the external stuff but somehow completely ignored the internal aspect of pilgrimage ... it is so important to not be connected to the non-pilgrimage world if one is hoping to enter that reflective introspective aspect - no music and headphones, no wi-fi connection to the 'old' world, no books to read to fill one's mind so that the silence isn't there. Sure, take a phone but only switch it on for one minute every evening, just to check that there are no emergencies at home and then switch it off again (means you don't need a charger!).

Wonder what he is using for toilet paper .... a few hundred years ago there was a mini ice age in Europe, you will see in paintings that people of the period are all heavily dressed, fur cloaks and big hats ... I wonder if he may have over-dressed .. but then, it is December .... (though the warmest one we have ever recorded in the UK).

His cloak is wool so it will have natural water repellency if it isn't a lanolin drained modern cloth .. also depends how closely woven it is I suppose. The Royal Navy used woolen coats for centuries. I think that Roman military cloaks were given waterproofing by adding extra lanolin, but I could be wrong here. a 28lbs cloak? Crikey!!

He may have a problem with his dagger wearing it at the front like that, especially when he crouches down!!, better at the side .... also, illegal in the UK to carry a knife (unless a folding one with a blade less than 3 inches, such as a Swiss Army knife) - though he may get round that by either saying it is part of a traditional national costume (it isn't) or it is for religious reasons.

I don't think that he will happily sleep like that - his feet will be so cold, and possible soaking wet too. Better to take the cloak off and roll himself in it width ways - but he'll work that out.
I travelled in north Africa many decades ago and wore a traditional Djellaba, the ankle length long sleeved hooded robe. When I slept I took it off and reversed it, putting my feet in the hood, which allowed me to be straight, full length and covered, worked very well.

Good luck to him, and I hope to see him on the Meseta in that kit this coming August

 

[t2andreo]

Thank you, but no, I prefer my modern amenities, such as they are... I do not take deodorant...weighs too much. Soap and water, applied daily work fine.

 

[movinmaggie]

Brilliant! Thank you for posting this link.

Steven Payne's blog is on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/14thcenturypilgrimsprogress/
From his report of yesterday:
Distance: about 15 miles
Number of times lost: 0
Number of 'catnaps': 2
Number of times I've been called 'Obi Wan Kenobi': 7

Probably a stupid question but I wonder how you can make a wollen coat waterproof?

I have a woolen coat I purchased in Edinburgh, Scotland in the 70s! and I still use it when cold enough. I believe it was made in Germany. Not sure about the spelling, but the material is called 'Loden'. It's full length and quite heavy and definitely waterproof. The colour is what I refer to as 'army green'.It still has the barest sign of wear and is a classic design. I always get nice comments when I wear it. I guess not many would keep a coat for so long.....37 years! Must be my Scottish blood.

 

[SYates]

@movinmaggie You spelled it perfectly, here a bit background information from our friend wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loden_cape
SY

 

[David]

Maggie - I think Loden is what seagoing wool coats are/were made of too!

I have an overcoat - I wear rarely, only in winter if I have to go to a formal thing. A sort of brown tweed 100% wool, made in East Germany some 60 years ago and still in perfect condition. It is water repellent but don't know if it is waterproof, doubt it. I do know that in light rain the water doesn't penetrate but sort of beads on top.

Was thinking about our 'medieval' pilgrim - hope it is all going well for him.

 

[good_old_shoes]

Movinmaggie, I do have a coat like that, too! Also made in the 70s.

I love that thing. Felted wool like „Loden“ is best. I can walk in the rain for hours without getting wet. Of course after a while the wool gets soaked, but as it's the outer layer, that doesn't matter so much, though, as long as it's still dry from the inside. And even when wet it's still quite warm.

While training for the camino I tried fleece and rain jacket, but was sweating like hell when walking and freezing cold as soon as I stopped for a break. Then decided to use the coat and did not regret it.

I always smile when I read here in the forum not to take a heavy coat, as that piece of gear is one of my favourites.

 

[movinmaggie]

Maggie - I think Loden is what seagoing wool coats are/were made of too!

I have an overcoat - I wear rarely, only in winter if I have to go to a formal thing. A sort of brown tweed 100% wool, made in East Germany some 60 years ago and still in perfect condition. It is water repellent but don't know if it is waterproof, doubt it. I do know that in light rain the water doesn't penetrate but sort of beads on top.

Was thinking about our 'medieval' pilgrim - hope it is all going well for him.

Hi David, you are probably correct. I confuse 'proof' with 'repellant'. Bottom line….it keeps me dry. I too wish our medieval prilgrim well.

 

[Hugh Hertfordshire]

I started my Camino in Letchworth and followed footpaths through old villages and Catherdal cities StAlbans, Westminster, Guildford, Winchester and Portsmouth. It was very enjoyable and I was given wonderful welcomes everywhere. Even got the 'Dole' in Winchester

 

[koilife]

And he takes an iPad to write a blog SY

Because goose quills, India ink, and parchment are so yesteryear . . .

 

[Icacos]

I have a woolen coat I purchased in Edinburgh, Scotland in the 70s! and I still use it when cold enough. I believe it was made in Germany. Not sure about the spelling, but the material is called 'Loden'. It's full length and quite heavy and definitely waterproof. The colour is what I refer to as 'army green'.It still has the barest sign of wear and is a classic design. I always get nice comments when I wear it. I guess not many would keep a coat for so long.....37 years! Must be my Scottish blood.

Congratulations on the long possession of your coat. My husband, also of Scottish descent, and originally from Victoria, has had a wool sweater (Allen Solly & Co. Ltd. of England) for 54 years. However, he does not wear his sweater outdoors! ................. Hmmmmm, must be something about you Vancouver Island folk of Scottish descent.

 

[LookingFor42]

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-35108393

No goretex shoes or technical Ts for him

I think it's a super cool story. Thanks for sharing. I just googled what 2 stone weighs in kilograms... Wow. That's one heavy cape.

I'll have to try to find his blog now. As for all the "he shouldn't take technology" etc people... Get off your high horses. Would you prefer he wrote his letters and sent them home using a carrier pigeon?

 

[SYates]

... As for all the "he shouldn't take technology" etc people... Get off your high horses. Would you prefer he wrote his letters and sent them home using a carrier pigeon?

I am not sitting on a high horse by any stretch of imagination, I was just pointing out that when somebody embarks on a medieval-style pilgrimage for a few days taking an iPad for blogging with him might be a little bit of a contradiction. Buen Camino, SY

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I carry my Ipad, but I'm all for the carrier pigeon. I really wonder about all these blogs. And avoid those "writing" them as they seem to have a phenomenal sense of importance as they walk and document. I suppose it scratches the same itch as the selfie?

 

[David]

I'm with some of those above .... the moment you stop to take a selfie or a photo of what you are eating, or photo the person you are talking to, or the building you are standing in front of you are no longer there, no longer connected, no longer part of the landscape, the experience - you have become a detached observer ... the moment you phone home or blog and state "I am having this amazing experience" you are no longer having the experience, you have separated yourself from it - so the options aren't about choosing between an ipad for blogging or a quill and parchment for writing .. the options are to be fully immersed or to be a detached observer - one is a tourist on a walking holiday, the other is a pilgrim on pilgrimage as the tourist holiday is external observation and the pilgrimage is internal introspection and immersing in what is right there in front of you - what the universe manifests daily specifically for you as part of your journey.

This cannot be escaped - it is how it is. Would you go on a meditational or monastic retreat and take photos as you do it? Of course not. Would you write a blog as you do it? Take photos of you and your monastic instructor with your arm round his/her shoulder? Of monks chanting at 4am? Of course not. Would you take a selfie of yourself taking mass, your arm round the priest? Would you phone home as you receive the sacrament to tell someone what an amazing experience you are having? Would you take a selfie at a funeral? Write a blog as the body is lowered into the ground? Listen to music on your headphones? Read a pulp fiction book? Of course not, you know the difference between sacred and mundane experiences - so you know what I am saying.

Have you sat across from someone at a meal, in a conversation, and then watched them disappear head downwards to a text on their phone? or even worse, to write a text on their phone? and they are no longer really there? And that is just a meal in your home country ... there is nothing wrong with taking a walking holiday along the Camino, all the best to you, each travels in their own way, but a pilgrimage? A pilgrimage? That is a deep thing, a connecting thing, a moving place where over countless miles and deprivations you find you have to confront yourself and the universe, and possibly your God - it can be and usually is life changing - the two things, blogging selfie phone home all the time walking holiday and pilgrimage are not the same and can never be the same - it is how it is, whether you disagree or not, sorry.

The choice, on Camino, is between the sound of silence (within which is laughter, tears, and joy) and the neon God you have made - in life it is always this choice, don't you think? It is choice you know ... I do not criticise those who do, not at all, you choose what you will, but for me it is to leave those things behind and experience the experience - go onnnnn take the chance

This is using your phone - notice the girl who doesn't? And this is now considered absolutely normal - do you see? Surely you see???

 

[C clearly]

There are some surprisingly strong reactions here. I think the whole adventure is mildly interesting, as long as he doesn't take himself too seriously. I'll have to go read the blog to see.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

the moment you stop to take a selfie or a photo of what you are eating, or photo the person you are talking to, or the building you are standing in front of you are no longer there, no longer connected, no longer part of the landscape, the experience - you have become a detached observer ... the moment you phone home or blog and state "I am having this amazing experience" you are no longer having the experience, you have separated yourself from it

Ok, so I wonder, did the guy who painted this experience it? Obviously a dog lover. In my mind whether its a cave wall or facebook its all the same thing, just humans communicating more conveniently these days. I think its one of the things that makes us human.

I personally have enjoyed many life changing walking holidays, and I like sharing them with others.

I think maybe what you are saying is the MOST life changing, influential, experiential aspects of the Camino are personal, and when those personal experiences are shared, especially in the more mundane methods of self promotion these days, they are cheapened. That seems, however, to be a personal view, and not an "it is what it is" type of thing.

For me, being somewhat of an introvert, I find that I am most connected with my friends/family at the deepest levels when I am tearing apart a facade worn and revealing the truth beneath. Sometimes if something is especially moving I'll post a poem or a short story about it.

Then again, I love posting pictures of donkeys chasing collies too.

 

[C clearly]

@Damien Reynolds - Very well said!

 

[David]

Sorry, I sort of went off on one - though to me it is true - I love what medieval man is doing, it is really sweet and somehow he has been driven to do it, in a similar way that we are driven to do the Camino. I don't think that he will stop with this one foray ... he will finish it, go home, write about it, and then start planning another one!!

 

[William Marques]

If he did not communicate he could be considered just to be doing this for himself by communicating he is doing something for others which is traditional at this time of year.

Good luck to him.

 

[AlwynWellington]

Let this man communicate anyway he wants ... last night, he slept in a ruined chapel and graveyard and this morning he started walking in a gale. No one else around. It's not a camino as you know it.

But it is a pilgrimage as it would have been done, whether to Canterbury (as many did: Chaucer anyone?) or to Compostela or wherever.

Somewhere en-route in 2010 I recall seeing a documentary(?) showing a medieval pilgrim going through snow blizzards and other hazards wearing the clothing of the day.

No, it's not a camino as we know it.

Edited to change the second word (was 'is') to 'it' as was originally intended. AW

 

[David]

I see that medieval pilgrim is still walking, day ten now. Seems that he isn't sleeping well and that this is disturbing his waking hours, that he has developed a cough and a sore back - (and the shape of his hood doesn't work) - but he is still walking. good for him! and a Merry Christmas to him too!

 

[sillydoll]

We usually think of pilgrims from the Middle Ages dressed in long robes, with a mantle, a broad brimmed hat, gourd, staff and scrip (satchel).
The Middle Ages cover about 1,000 years - from about AD 500 to about AD 1500 - and clothing styles changed constantly.
The iconic picture of the long robed pilgrim dates to the 11th and 12th centuries. Thereafter, robes were replaced with tunics and tights, blouses and pantaloons, shirts and coats, Wealthier pilgrims wore the latest fashions made of the finest cloth.
The one constant in all pictures of medieval pilgrims to Santiago is that none of them are ever depicted with a backpack!

 

[Kiwi-family]

When I sit down at the end of a day - any day anywhere - to journal, am I suddenly disconnected from my experience of the day? For me, reflection is not disconnection. Similarly, sharing thoughts via blogs or Facebook or letters or emails can connect with community. (At the same time, I agree that doing this at the meal table with others instead of being present can be rude - but these are two separate issues)

 

[domigee]

I think he is very brave to be doing it in this weather... Ok, it isn't cold but it is sooooooo wet and grey and windy ...

 

[David]

Glad he got there safely - I see he looks different from when he started. His light brown leather waist bag and dagger have disappeared and he has bought a canvas holdall - I assume his heavy cloak is in there, with the other bits. I'm not surprised ... the reality of the walk would have had him improving things as he went along. His beard has really grown and he does look a lot cleaner than I expected him to be!!
I wonder what he will do next, what his next adventure will be!!

 

[tyrrek]

Congratulations to him! I've enjoyed getting his updates via Facebook over the last few days. He seems to have been well received and looked after by the people he's met. The Lord Mayor came out to welcome him to Canterbury, which may have led to an uneasy juxtaposition of historic attire.

 

[Steven Payne]

Even he brings deodorant! Now, I wonder what he plans on doing for blisters?

Luckily I didn't get any blisters. I wore the shoes without socks and they were stuffed with raw sheeps wool.

 

[Steven Payne]

But is is a pilgrimage as it would have been done, whether to Canterbury (as many did: Chaucer anyone?) or to Compostela or wherever.

Somewhere en-route in 2010 I recall seeing a documentary(?) showing a medieval pilgrim going through snow blizzards and other hazards wearing the clothing of the day.

No, it's not a camino as we know it.

I don't know how people may define 'pilgrimage' these days but mine to Canterbury has been as accurate to the 14th century as it is possible to make it, with the exception of the iPad which is there to post photos of the historical sites I encountered along the way (not to watch movies or talk to people as some have said).
This trip had multiple purposes, to walk as a 'winter pilgrim' would have walked at the time, to research the durability of the clothing and the footwear, to examine the public reaction to pilgrimage in general and this one in particular and of course to give myself the time and mental space to exmine my place in the world.
It is a walk on my own terms, there are no 'rules' about pilgrimage, it is something common to almost every religion and people do what they feel they need to do for their own purposes.

 

[domigee]

Hello and CONGRATULATIONS!

 

[Steven Payne]

I see that medieval pilgrim is still walking, day ten now. Seems that he isn't sleeping well and that this is disturbing his waking hours, that he has developed a cough and a sore back - (and the shape of his hood doesn't work) - but he is still walking. good for him! and a Merry Christmas to him too!

Thank you David, and a belated Happy Christmas to you too.

 

[Steven Payne]

Is there anyone in the area who could furnish him with a couple of bottles of mead on Christmas Day?

I think if I had taken a couple of bottles of mead, I would not have done much walking

 

[Steven Payne]

I recognise his lovely lavender body garment. It looks remarkably like a Robe Towel from Cascade Designs. Made of some microfibre material.

This kirtle was woven from heavy felted wool, made by me and hand stitched to a design from the 14th century, then dyed by me using a dye made from boiled 'Orchil' lichen and urine.....it is certainly not any kind of microfibre but it did keep me warm and dry on nights spent sleeping under bushes in the pouring rain.

 

[Steven Payne]

He could have taken some parchment and a goose feather quill instead!

If I had taken quill and parchment I would not have been able to write much about the pilgrimage....... The iPad was only there to capture the historical buildings along the way.

 

[Steven Payne]

I'm with some of those above .... the moment you stop to take a selfie or a photo of what you are eating, or photo the person you are talking to, or the building you are standing in front of you are no longer there, no longer connected, no longer part of the landscape, the experience - you have become a detached observer ... the moment you phone home or blog and state "I am having this amazing experience" you are no longer having the experience, you have separated yourself from it - so the options aren't about choosing between an ipad for blogging or a quill and parchment for writing .. the options are to be fully immersed or to be a detached observer - one is a tourist on a walking holiday, the other is a pilgrim on pilgrimage as the tourist holiday is external observation and the pilgrimage is internal introspection and immersing in what is right there in front of you - what the universe manifests daily specifically for you as part of your journey.

This cannot be escaped - it is how it is. Would you go on a meditational or monastic retreat and take photos as you do it? Of course not. Would you write a blog as you do it? Take photos of you and your monastic instructor with your arm round his/her shoulder? Of monks chanting at 4am? Of course not. Would you take a selfie of yourself taking mass, your arm round the priest? Would you phone home as you receive the sacrament to tell someone what an amazing experience you are having? Would you take a selfie at a funeral? Write a blog as the body is lowered into the ground? Listen to music on your headphones? Read a pulp fiction book? Of course not, you know the difference between sacred and mundane experiences - so you know what I am saying.

Have you sat across from someone at a meal, in a conversation, and then watched them disappear head downwards to a text on their phone? or even worse, to write a text on their phone? and they are no longer really there? And that is just a meal in your home country ... there is nothing wrong with taking a walking holiday along the Camino, all the best to you, each travels in their own way, but a pilgrimage? A pilgrimage? That is a deep thing, a connecting thing, a moving place where over countless miles and deprivations you find you have to confront yourself and the universe, and possibly your God - it can be and usually is life changing - the two things, blogging selfie phone home all the time walking holiday and pilgrimage are not the same and can never be the same - it is how it is, whether you disagree or not, sorry.

The choice, on Camino, is between the sound of silence (within which is laughter, tears, and joy) and the neon God you have made - in life it is always this choice, don't you think? It is choice you know ... I do not criticise those who do, not at all, you choose what you will, but for me it is to leave those things behind and experience the experience - go onnnnn take the chance

This is using your phone - notice the girl who doesn't? And this is now considered absolutely normal - do you see? Surely you see???

It is possible to immerse yourself in the experience, and yet to write that up at the end of the day, by whatever method, as a part of the process of reflection.

 

[wayfarer]

If I had taken quill and parchment I would not have been able to write much about the pilgrimage....... The iPad was only there to capture the historical buildings along the way.

Hi Stephen, this was said tongue in cheek. I for one was delighted you brought your iPad as I followed you journey with great interest. Much respect for your achievement.

 

[Steven Payne]

Some quick points:

It is not illegal to carry a knife in the UK if you have a defined purpose for having it such as a tool you need for your work, although it is obviously better if it is in a pack.

The cloak and clothing had the lanolin left in which makes it practically waterproof.

The iPad is there because I was not only doing a pilgrimage, I was intending to write about the history of pilgrimage, which involves taking photographs. No movies were watched, no emails were sent, it was there for emergencies as most of the time I was walking on my own in some wild and windy places, sleeping in woods and fields and I needed an emergency contact system if something went wrong.
The iPad was used to blog at night after I had bedded down and this was a part of my reflections on the day..... During the pilgrimage I had no contact with my friends and family and did not use it for anything except taking a record.

 

[Steven Payne]

Hi Stephen, this was said tongue in cheek. I for one was delighted you brought your iPad as I followed you journey with great interest. Much respect for your achievement.

Hi, yes I think email like this is not very good at getting 'tone' across, I certainly wasn't complaining
There will always be questions about motives and methods and I too dislike modern gadgetry intruding on life, in fact I have no TV and no landline phone but find it easier to reflect on things by writing things down and so the blog was simply me sorting out my thoughts each day.
I am gratified that over 100,000 people 'followed' my blog as I went, but I would have been equally happy had it been 100.
I am now back in a warm bed at home, but with a better idea of who I am and where I am going, plus a better understanding of people and the trials of sleeping rough, trying to walk across continents to safety and the problems associated with homelessness.

 

[Steven Payne]

I am not sitting on a high horse by any stretch of imagination, I was just pointing out that when somebody embarks on a medieval-style pilgrimage for a few days taking an iPad for blogging with him might be a little bit of a contradiction. Buen Camino, SY

I don't see it as a contradiction as I wasn't just doing a pilgrimage, I was also researching the history of this particular route, promoting medieval ideals of charity and testing the original clothing and equipment.
There were several days when I woke, walked, and saw no-one, giving me plenty of time for introspection.

 

[SYates]

Point taken! SY

 

[Steven Payne]

Glad he got there safely - I see he looks different from when he started. His light brown leather waist bag and dagger have disappeared and he has bought a canvas holdall - I assume his heavy cloak is in there, with the other bits. I'm not surprised ... the reality of the walk would have had him improving things as he went along. His beard has really grown and he does look a lot cleaner than I expected him to be!!
I wonder what he will do next, what his next adventure will be!!

Hi, I didn't buy the canvas holdall, it was there from the start and is a standard piecee of 14th century kit......and the leather pouch bag had simply swung round out of sight.
Everything I ended with was there from the start.

 

[David]

Steven, Hello! You have joined us!! Thank you for your replies and comments to our previous posts, all is more clear now - and here I must hold a candle to my shame - so easy to come to conclusions without enough evidence ... if I could retract some of what I have written, though written in good faith, I would ... thank you for your explanations. Especially about your use, or non-use, of electronics and of an ipad as a journal holder, I feel the same about a journal at the end of the day, a way of ordering and reflecting upon one's daily thoughts.
You have made a truly interesting personal journey.

What is your take now on your cloak? I saw that it weighed 28 lbs ... was the weight "worth it"? It was more than a cloak of course, a bedroll too, and how did the lanolin rich fabric hold up to rain and to wind? Some Camino pilgrims carry sheeps wool to use on hot spots on their feet to protect from getting blisters - when you say that you stuffed your shoes with sheeps wool - was this in lengths that you moulded into a 'sock' shape? and did it stay in place? and, was this traditional or did hose in that period include a foot shape at the bottom? I know that Romans, Saxons, even the Force, all wore socks in winter. How did your clothing feel? It seems to be much looser than modern clothing, was there any chafing that you became aware of?
Another question for you - someone commented above that we never see illustrations of medievals wearing backpacks - are they a late invention? Was it always bags across shoulder in 'your' time?

Ah, but now you are on this Camino forum ....... we may 'have' you now!! You are in Southampton where ships have sailed for France for centuries ... do your eyes now start to look across the Channel to the possibility of a medieval foreign excursion down through France (without longbow) into Spain ... to possibly a longer pilgrimage?

 

[Kanga]

@Steven Payne how wonderful to have you on the forum. Welcome! Your journey was intriguing and I am interested to hear how the "gear" performed. I'm a personal fan of natural fibres and particularly wool, so I did wonder about your cloak. I know that heavy rain does eventually penetrate the fleece on sheep and then they can find it hard to stay standing if their fleece is very long, because of the weight. Did your cloak never get sodden? I suppose the felting would help make it impermeable.

We all complain about the imperfections of modern rain gear, and how (no matter what manufacturers say) it does not breath, so it would be fantastic to find medieval pilgrims fared better.

 

[AlwynWellington]

No, it's not a camino as we know it.

I wrote those words as I was preparing to celebrate Christmas in temperatures in the mid to high 20s Centigrade, preparing for a (very) mini walkabout to test preparations for my longer pilgrimage in a few months time.

To contrast Stephen's clothing, equipment, places to sleep and food to eat with what we enjoy today tells me Stephen took a road very different (and much harder) to what we expect to do.

Stephen made it in time to commemorate the martyrdom of Thomas Becket in Canterbury Cathedral in 1170: the original purpose of this pilgrimage.

Congratulations

 

[Robo]

Fantastic effort Stephen. Well done! You'll have us all walking out next Camino in similar garb

 

[Steven Payne]

Steven, Hello! You have joined us!! Thank you for your replies and comments to our previous posts, all is more clear now - and here I must hold a candle to my shame - so easy to come to conclusions without enough evidence ... if I could retract some of what I have written, though written in good faith, I would ... thank you for your explanations. Especially about your use, or non-use, of electronics and of an ipad as a journal holder, I feel the same about a journal at the end of the day, a way of ordering and reflecting upon one's daily thoughts.
You have made a truly interesting personal journey.

What is your take now on your cloak? I saw that it weighed 28 lbs ... was the weight "worth it"? It was more than a cloak of course, a bedroll too, and how did the lanolin rich fabric hold up to rain and to wind? Some Camino pilgrims carry sheeps wool to use on hot spots on their feet to protect from getting blisters - when you say that you stuffed your shoes with sheeps wool - was this in lengths that you moulded into a 'sock' shape? and did it stay in place? and, was this traditional or did hose in that period include a foot shape at the bottom? I know that Romans, Saxons, even the Force, all wore socks in winter. How did your clothing feel? It seems to be much looser than modern clothing, was there any chafing that you became aware of?
Another question for you - someone commented above that we never see illustrations of medievals wearing backpacks - are they a late invention? Was it always bags across shoulder in 'your' time?

Ah, but now you are on this Camino forum ....... we may 'have' you now!! You are in Southampton where ships have sailed for France for centuries ... do your eyes now start to look across the Channel to the possibility of a medieval foreign excursion down through France (without longbow) into Spain ... to possibly a longer pilgrimage?

Hello David, no problems with the posts, it's difficult to convey tone in the written form and certainly no offense taken...
The cloak was amazing, it was designed for a more typical English winter and so was too heavy for most day to day walking, but useful when it was really wet, and at night. All the homeless people I spoke to when researching this walk warned me about the dangers of getting wet.
I did have some raw wool with me but the wool in the shoes was unformed, it made its way into gaps and supported my feet well throughout the walk, wet feet being the main danger to continued progress. There were socks and footed hose in the 13th century, but I decided after looking into it to go barefoot for the sake of practicality.
There wasn't any chafing on the trip, apart from the underbelt I wore to hold up the hose, as I often went 'commando' under the kirtle, and generally the clothing was extremely practical.
I have seen some illustrations of pilgrims with backpacks, mainly later in the 17th century, but my arrangement of multiple smaller bags worked well and was better supported by the initial research. The belt pouches were standard wear in the 14th century, knives were a universal item for all members of society and most of the rest came directly from archeological finds from burials of the period.
Next steps? I thought maybe of visiting the shrines of those Anglosaxon saints that never get recognition these days, or perhaps follow in the footsteps of one of them...St Patick to Ireland in a coracle perhaps!
At the moment though it's bedrest, 200 miles is not all that far but sleeping rough in the wettest winter in a century is an extra burden I could have done without.

 

[Steven Payne]

@Steven Payne how wonderful to have you on the forum. Welcome! Your journey was intriguing and I am interested to hear how the "gear" performed. I'm a personal fan of natural fibres and particularly wool, so I did wonder about your cloak. I know that heavy rain does eventually penetrate the fleece on sheep and then they can find it hard to stay standing if their fleece is very long, because of the weight. Did your cloak never get sodden? I suppose the felting would help make it impermeable.

We all complain about the imperfections of modern rain gear, and how (no matter what manufacturers say) it does not breath, so it would be fantastic to find medieval pilgrims fared better.

Wool is your friend in the wild places, it is warm, rain resistant if felted and with the lanolin left in, and when it dries it undergoes an exothermic reaction that can heat it up by as much as three degrees centigrade (this is why Scottish highlanders used to dunk their kilts in a barrel of water before wrapping themselves in it when bedding down).
The design of the kirtle, basically a long dress, allows multiple layers to be worn and discarded when walking.
All in all I discovered that medieval man, and probably those that came before him, were pretty clued in when it came to clothing and equipment design. They may not have had the technology we have, but I strongly suspect they were no less intelligent and were certainly more in tune with living in the world of their day, aware of 'nature' and it's rhythms.
I strongly suspect they would find 'modern man' to be backward in any number of areas, after all how many of us could identify the plants around us, list their uses, make soap, deodorant, rope, antiseptics, food, shelter, medicine, beer, wine and dyes from what we find in the hedgerows and fields of our own countries?

 

[andy.d]

Congratulations Steven. I walked from Winchester to Canterbury a few years ago. It was in awfully wet summer weather, so I really take my hat off to you!
I'm interested in the reactions you got as a pilgrim in historic costume. We were walking in modern kit, but definitely as pilgrims. There was very little awareness that we came across along the way of it being an ancient pilgrim route.
Enjoy some rest!

Andy

 

[Steven Payne]

Welcome, @Steven Payne! After seeing the link to your blog, I quickly became one of your dedicated followers. Like so many others have said: thank you for sharing your photos and your knowledge and your thoughts. I, too, was hoping each evening that you will get safely through the night and will manage to accomplish your pilgrimage, and I read parts of your comments to family members. And I hope you do not mind me quoting a few excerpts from your blog here on this forum. I wanted to share so that other people could learn about your project and have a look themselves. I even asked the person in question whether I could post the photo above but I admit that I did not wait for a reply (so far none received). But then again, you yourself did not explicitly ask for permission for using at least one of your very very old sleeping spots, so I feel I am in good company .

I am in awe of what you accomplished; in comparison, walking the Camino de Santiago in Spain looks like a walk in the park where one is surrounded by food, drink, beds, and sign-posts.

You mentioned at one point that you did not sleep enough. Was it the rain, the cold, the uncomfortable ground, all of it? You did not sleep in any churches (that are still in use) after all, it seems?

Please do not worry about using any photos or video, I am not worried about such things
The lack of sleep was mainly because any animal walking by, or a change in wind direction, rain or noise from people tended to wake me up. I found that of the 15 hours of darkness, I only really slept about 4-5 hours and so had to nap during the day on park benches, in bushes and lay by's along the way.
Navigation after dark was difficult as I was carrying no maps and sometimes could not see the stars, and so once or twice I became lost, but other than that it went well.

 

[Steven Payne]

Congratulations Steven. I walked from Winchester to Canterbury a few years ago. It was in awfully wet summer weather, so I really take my hat off to you!
I'm interested in the reactions you got as a pilgrim in historic costume. We were walking in modern kit, but definitely as pilgrims. There was very little awareness that we came across along the way of it being an ancient pilgrim route.
Enjoy some rest!

Andy

Some people knew we were on the Pilgrims Way Andy, but many did not, especially when it went through towns and villages. Pub landlords seemed to be well aware though, mostly I suspect because pilgrims account for much of their summer business.
In towns, many people thought I was Obi Wan Kenobi and promoting the new Star Wars film!

 

[SYates]

... Pub landlords seemed to be well aware though, mostly I suspect because pilgrims account for much of their summer business. ...

That implies that a good number of pilgrims actually 'do' this route during summer, correct? SY

 

[Steven Payne]

That implies that a good number of pilgrims actually 'do' this route during summer, correct? SY

I certainly met many people who said they had walked part of the Pilgrims way..... Whether they told anyone they were doing it, or whether people just assumed they were out for a walk is another matter though.

 

[Steven Payne]

Yes it was a requirement to help people along the way as well as a personal journey. Many pilgrims, in order to finance the trip, sold everything they owned, usually to the church, in order to finance it, and were expected to help other less fortunate if they could.

 

[David]

I am so enjoying the medieval information on this post!

You most likely already have a copy on your shelves but if you are interested in other pilgrim routes in Britain do you know of
Walking the Pilgrim Ways by Keith Sugden published by David & Charles 1991 ISBN 0 7153 9408 8
if it is new to you (I would be surprised) there are ten pilgrimages in it.

 

[pilgrim b]

I am so enjoying the medieval information on this post!

You most likely already have a copy on your shelves but if you are interested in other pilgrim routes in Britain do you know of
Walking the Pilgrim Ways by Keith Sugden published by David & Charles 1991 ISBN 0 7153 9408 8
if it is new to you (I would be surprised) there are ten pilgrimages in it.

Thank you for that info on Keith Sugden book David . I feel my next pilgrimage will have to be in the UK this year , I have been waiting since September for the first one of two operations I need.
This gives me little chance of reaching Spain this year, as I would never get insurance health cover for my trip out of the UK. Walking the Pilgrim Ways sounds like a good alternative for me and pregrina b for 2016.

 

[SYates]

... I feel my next pilgrimage will have to be in the UK this year , I have been waiting since September for the first one of two operations I need.
This gives me little chance of reaching Spain this year, as I would never get insurance health cover for my trip out of the UK. ...

Hope you are restored to full health soon! But the EHIC should cover your travels anywhere in the EU... As for pilgrimages in the UK , the first one that comes to my mind would be Walsingham. Buen Camino, SY

 

[pilgrim b]

Thank you SYates for your kind wishes I appreciate them. After checking on the EHIC web site I thought I was correct about the situation many people make this mistake it is quite common , I quote "The EHIC is not an alternative to travel insurance. It will not cover any private medical healthcare or costs, such as mountain rescue in ski resorts, being flown back to the UK, or lost or stolen property. This makes it important to have both an EHIC and a valid private travel insurance policy." Hope this helps.

 

[David and Theresa]

I'm with some of those above .... the moment you stop to take a selfie or a photo of what you are eating, or photo the person you are talking to, or the building you are standing in front of you are no longer there, no longer connected, no longer part of the landscape, the experience - you have become a detached observer ... the moment you phone home or blog and state "I am having this amazing experience" you are no longer having the experience, you have separated yourself from it - so the options aren't about choosing between an ipad for blogging or a quill and parchment for writing .. the options are to be fully immersed or to be a detached observer - one is a tourist on a walking holiday, the other is a pilgrim on pilgrimage as the tourist holiday is external observation and the pilgrimage is internal introspection and immersing in what is right there in front of you - what the universe manifests daily specifically for you as part of your journey.

This cannot be escaped - it is how it is. Would you go on a meditational or monastic retreat and take photos as you do it? Of course not. Would you write a blog as you do it? Take photos of you and your monastic instructor with your arm round his/her shoulder? Of monks chanting at 4am? Of course not. Would you take a selfie of yourself taking mass, your arm round the priest? Would you phone home as you receive the sacrament to tell someone what an amazing experience you are having? Would you take a selfie at a funeral? Write a blog as the body is lowered into the ground? Listen to music on your headphones? Read a pulp fiction book? Of course not, you know the difference between sacred and mundane experiences - so you know what I am saying.

Have you sat across from someone at a meal, in a conversation, and then watched them disappear head downwards to a text on their phone? or even worse, to write a text on their phone? and they are no longer really there? And that is just a meal in your home country ... there is nothing wrong with taking a walking holiday along the Camino, all the best to you, each travels in their own way, but a pilgrimage? A pilgrimage? That is a deep thing, a connecting thing, a moving place where over countless miles and deprivations you find you have to confront yourself and the universe, and possibly your God - it can be and usually is life changing - the two things, blogging selfie phone home all the time walking holiday and pilgrimage are not the same and can never be the same - it is how it is, whether you disagree or not, sorry.

The choice, on Camino, is between the sound of silence (within which is laughter, tears, and joy) and the neon God you have made - in life it is always this choice, don't you think? It is choice you know ... I do not criticise those who do, not at all, you choose what you will, but for me it is to leave those things behind and experience the experience - go onnnnn take the chance

This is using your phone - notice the girl who doesn't? And this is now considered absolutely normal - do you see? Surely you see???

People have asked me about the number of pics I take or the lack thereof, and I tell them that a lot of times I just dont feel like taking a picture, that what I see is just for me

 

[jerbear]

Bravo Stephen