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Memorable Albergues on the Portugues

Camino(s) past & future
Frances (Spring 2010), Frances (Spring 2016), Portuguese (May 2018)
#1
When we walked the CF in 2010 we stayed at a couple of Albergues recommended by the good folks on this forum and these places have provided some of our fondest memories. We will be walking from Porto to Santiago in May of this year and would appreciate recommendations for albergues along the Portugues with a spiritual element, a communal meal, unforgettable hospitaleros, etc. Thanks in advance.
 

Coleen Clark

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Walked August 2015, planning on walking August 2017
#3
I agree with Casa Fernanda! Fantastic way to get into the real spirit of the Camino. Please do not miss the Monastery in Herbon! I stayed twice and both times were awesome. Think about taking the detour to the Variante Espiritual, a beautiful trail up the mountains and down through a magical river valley, and the boat ride and explanation is worth it, although the stay the night before in the top floor of a busy gym may not be...
I found the Portuguese people themselves very friendly, helpful, and warm.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 15,Portuguese 16,Finisterre Muxia 16,Ingles16,, Almeria to Muxia,Finesterre 18
#4
Casa de Laura in Vilarinho ,, small and wonderful ,,, even to leaving a bottle of port with glasses out for the 6 pilgrims staying after we walked back from the cafe just around the corner ,,, great first night out from Porto,,
 

Kazles

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
2016
#5
When we walked the CF in 2010 we stayed at a couple of Albergues recommended by the good folks on this forum and these places have provided some of our fondest memories. We will be walking from Porto to Santiago in May of this year and would appreciate recommendations for albergues along the Portugues with a spiritual element, a communal meal, unforgettable hospitaleros, etc. Thanks in advance.
The folk dancing club's albergue on the other side of the river overlooking Barcelos was lovely - communal meal, courtyard, great view.
 

surya8

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Portugues Central, Santarem-Santiago - 2017; Portugues Interior, Sanabres, Fisterra & Muxia - 2018
#7
If you decide to walk along the coast for the first day, the albergue Santa Clara in Vila do Conde is brand new, very welcoming and they give great advice where to head to for a meal in the company of your new friends. The municipal one in Ponte de Lima is huge and busy but friendly. The best vew in town on the river and the city! Ask for a room that faces the river. The town itself is charming, with music playing on the bridge across the river. A small private albergue Pilger Pause run by the Germans in Fontoura, between Rubiaes and Valenca, great communal meal in the garden there, small and very relaxed place. In Spain, the small private one, Lar de Pepa, in Arcade, between Redondela and Pontevedra, not far from the river, the area reminded me of the lakes in Italy, like Como or Garda.
 
Camino(s) past & future
May 2013 Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela.
Camino Portuguese Porto to SdeC May 31 2017.
#10
O Recuncho do Peregrino in Redondela. Miguel, the owner, is the nicest, most helpful person ever with the cleanest establishment. You can sleep albergue style or email ahead and request a room with twin beds. Tell him Renee from the USA who lost his keys sent you!
 
Camino(s) past & future
1st one will be in april/may 2018
#11
Thank you for all your suggestions. I marked all to my guidebook.
 
Camino(s) past & future
CF - April/May 2017
CP Central - Sep./2017
CP Coastal - Sep./2018
#12
Quinta do Caminho was fabulous. It is in Pedreira, about 4-5 kms before Valenca. It is both a dormitory and 9 private rooms and is right on the trail. Very nice dining room and outdoor patio bar and amazing quiet lawns. BONUS - nicest pool I've found on the CP or the CF. Here is the link I found http://quintadocaminho.com/en/the-quinta/ I will definitely stay there again if I go back.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (Spring 2010), Frances (Spring 2016), Portuguese (May 2018)
#14
Thank you all so much for your time and replies! I thought I posted my question in the sub forum for the coastal route, which is the route we will be walking in May, but I must have been mistaken. I am going to post again but this time making sure I am more specific in my request for recommendations. xxoo
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (Spring 2010), Frances (Spring 2016), Portuguese (May 2018)
#15
Thanks for this thread!!! We start walking the Camino Portuguese on May 8 out of Coimbra! Our first Camino and we are soo excited to start!! Any and all tips are welcome!
I am happy this will help you! we'll be starting on May 8 from Porto along the coastal.
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
#16
The most memorable for us was Quinta da Portela which was just outside of Facha which is about 7 kilometers before Ponte de Lima.
Owned by a Dutchman named Han it is a nicely restored manor house with a newly built Pilgrim house that is fantastic. Reservations only.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Portugal route from Lisbon in May (2015)
Via de la Plata from Seville in April-May 2017
#17
I certainly ditto everything about Casa Fernanda. Call 1-2-3 days ahead for a reservation, otherwise you may be out of luck. Number 2 on my parade of hit albergues is O Ninho in Rubiaes. Walk past the public albergue a few hundred meters. It’s on the right side of the highway. I made a reservation, but didn’t really need one that day. I looked back in my 2015 Camino journal for the following.

“The albergue ("The Nest") is run by a 35 year old, single woman, Marlene. "Mama" cooks dinner and we all eat family style. This albergue is almost on par with Fernanda's in terms of hospitality and experience. A definite #2.
This is a funny story. I don't remember how the subject of music came up, but Marlene (or Mama?) went next door and got the neighbor to come in and play his accordion. It was very entertaining while we ate and Mama even started dancing a little jig. I don't know if this was a traditional Portuguese dance step or not. It was entertaining regardless. You couldn't tell if the man enjoyed his performance or if he was being forced. Maybe he was just shy playing in front of strangers.
So he played and we listened. It was a simple song, maybe one verse and one chorus repeated in different combinations. Over and over. And finally the song ended. We applauded with enthusiasm. After a moment he started playing again. It was the same song. The same verse and chorus repeated. Over and over. The second time we applauded again - slightly less than before. Then he played the same song again. Over and over. He must only know that one song! (but he knows it well) He played it 5-6 times. Each time our applause was less and less. He never changed his expression - I still don't know if he enjoyed himself. But it's a wonderful memory for those of us who were there. I don't watch the video anymore because when I do, that stupid little song stays in my head for several days.”

Another good albergue is in Agueda. It wasn’t exactly ON the Camino, but in town. I was walking with two others.
“I doubt if I would have been able to find the albergue today on my own. From where the road comes into town, you have to go up a really long (1-2 km) hill to get there. But it's real nice and next to a large super market. The hosts even held a little reception with pastries, wine, and port.”

 

Attachments

Camino(s) past & future
Frances (Spring 2010), Frances (Spring 2016), Portuguese (May 2018)
#19
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (Spring 2010), Frances (Spring 2016), Portuguese (May 2018)
#20
I certainly ditto everything about Casa Fernanda. Call 1-2-3 days ahead for a reservation, otherwise you may be out of luck. Number 2 on my parade of hit albergues is O Ninho in Rubiaes. Walk past the public albergue a few hundred meters. It’s on the right side of the highway. I made a reservation, but didn’t really need one that day. I looked back in my 2015 Camino journal for the following.

“The albergue ("The Nest") is run by a 35 year old, single woman, Marlene. "Mama" cooks dinner and we all eat family style. This albergue is almost on par with Fernanda's in terms of hospitality and experience. A definite #2.
This is a funny story. I don't remember how the subject of music came up, but Marlene (or Mama?) went next door and got the neighbor to come in and play his accordion. It was very entertaining while we ate and Mama even started dancing a little jig. I don't know if this was a traditional Portuguese dance step or not. It was entertaining regardless. You couldn't tell if the man enjoyed his performance or if he was being forced. Maybe he was just shy playing in front of strangers.
So he played and we listened. It was a simple song, maybe one verse and one chorus repeated in different combinations. Over and over. And finally the song ended. We applauded with enthusiasm. After a moment he started playing again. It was the same song. The same verse and chorus repeated. Over and over. The second time we applauded again - slightly less than before. Then he played the same song again. Over and over. He must only know that one song! (but he knows it well) He played it 5-6 times. Each time our applause was less and less. He never changed his expression - I still don't know if he enjoyed himself. But it's a wonderful memory for those of us who were there. I don't watch the video anymore because when I do, that stupid little song stays in my head for several days.”

Another good albergue is in Agueda. It wasn’t exactly ON the Camino, but in town. I was walking with two others.
“I doubt if I would have been able to find the albergue today on my own. From where the road comes into town, you have to go up a really long (1-2 km) hill to get there. But it's real nice and next to a large super market. The hosts even held a little reception with pastries, wine, and port.”

Fantastic! What a wonderful memory and thanks for sharing.

Palma
 
Camino(s) past & future
Portuguese (2014,2016),Primitivo (2015), San Salvador (2017), Norte (2018), Ingles (2018)
#22
Where did you stay in Portela? Does Portela have some interesting place to visit?
Stayed in the municipal albergue:
https://www.gronze.com/galicia/pontevedra/portela/albergue-peregrinos-portela-barro
Nothing particularly special, nothing memorable in the town (a nice church though), just a very basic shelter that feels like in the middle of the woods. Don't expect too much, it is as basic as an albergue can be, it just has a special feel to it (for me at least). The hospitalero (I regret I don't remember his name) is in a wheelchair - as he was when he did the camino - he is a true character.
 

Kazles

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
2016
#23
I certainly ditto everything about Casa Fernanda. Call 1-2-3 days ahead for a reservation, otherwise you may be out of luck. Number 2 on my parade of hit albergues is O Ninho in Rubiaes. Walk past the public albergue a few hundred meters. It’s on the right side of the highway. I made a reservation, but didn’t really need one that day. I looked back in my 2015 Camino journal for the following.

“The albergue ("The Nest") is run by a 35 year old, single woman, Marlene. "Mama" cooks dinner and we all eat family style. This albergue is almost on par with Fernanda's in terms of hospitality and experience. A definite #2.
This is a funny story. I don't remember how the subject of music came up, but Marlene (or Mama?) went next door and got the neighbor to come in and play his accordion. It was very entertaining while we ate and Mama even started dancing a little jig. I don't know if this was a traditional Portuguese dance step or not. It was entertaining regardless. You couldn't tell if the man enjoyed his performance or if he was being forced. Maybe he was just shy playing in front of strangers.
So he played and we listened. It was a simple song, maybe one verse and one chorus repeated in different combinations. Over and over. And finally the song ended. We applauded with enthusiasm. After a moment he started playing again. It was the same song. The same verse and chorus repeated. Over and over. The second time we applauded again - slightly less than before. Then he played the same song again. Over and over. He must only know that one song! (but he knows it well) He played it 5-6 times. Each time our applause was less and less. He never changed his expression - I still don't know if he enjoyed himself. But it's a wonderful memory for those of us who were there. I don't watch the video anymore because when I do, that stupid little song stays in my head for several days.”

Another good albergue is in Agueda. It wasn’t exactly ON the Camino, but in town. I was walking with two others.
“I doubt if I would have been able to find the albergue today on my own. From where the road comes into town, you have to go up a really long (1-2 km) hill to get there. But it's real nice and next to a large super market. The hosts even held a little reception with pastries, wine, and port.”

O Ninho was lovely, but in 2016, no mama - a young man was covering the shift.
I couldn't sleep due to a horrendous snoring plague, so took my sleeping bag outside to sleep on a lounge and had a lovely cat snuggle up to purr me to sleep.
 

katie@camino

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF, SJPDP-Finisterre 2016; CPort (Central) from Porto 2017;
CPort (Coastal) from Porto 2018.
#24
O Recuncho do Peregrino in Redondela. Miguel, the owner, is the nicest, most helpful person ever with the cleanest establishment. You can sleep albergue style or email ahead and request a room with twin beds. Tell him Renee from the USA who lost his keys sent you!
So agree with this - Miguel is absolutely wonderful - so helpful and kind - and the dip in the sea at the end of the day was the cherry on top.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Portugues (June-July 2018)
#25
I agree with Casa Fernanda! Fantastic way to get into the real spirit of the Camino. Please do not miss the Monastery in Herbon! I stayed twice and both times were awesome. Think about taking the detour to the Variante Espiritual, a beautiful trail up the mountains and down through a magical river valley, and the boat ride and explanation is worth it, although the stay the night before in the top floor of a busy gym may not be...
I found the Portuguese people themselves very friendly, helpful, and warm.
How early you arrive to stay at Herbon? I have heard it can be quite popular and some pilgrims arrive very early for beds. Do you know if this is true?
 

katie@camino

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF, SJPDP-Finisterre 2016; CPort (Central) from Porto 2017;
CPort (Coastal) from Porto 2018.
#26
How early you arrive to stay at Herbon? I have heard it can be quite popular and some pilgrims arrive very early for beds. Do you know if this is true?
I arrived about 4pm after a boat ride from the Variante Espiritual. Encountered a huge line up but was still able to get a bed - there are 30 available, I’d say there were about 25 pilgrims.
 

KJFSophie

My Way, With Joy !
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2014 & 2015 ) ,Via San Francesco, Italy (2017 )
Camino Portugese (2018 )
#27
You can't beat Casa Fernanda for the hospitality and vive.
I have heard the same, and wrote to Casa Fernanda, they requested a call two days ahead...just FYI ( walking Sept 2018 )
 
Camino(s) past & future
Portuguese in September 18
#30
I thought the municipal in ponte de Lima was nice for a municipal... Gorgeous view over the bridge also liked il nidho in rubiaies. Wouldn't recommend roots n boots in Santiago not very clean
 

katie@camino

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF, SJPDP-Finisterre 2016; CPort (Central) from Porto 2017;
CPort (Coastal) from Porto 2018.
#31
I thought the municipal in ponte de Lima was nice for a municipal... Gorgeous view over the bridge also liked il nidho in rubiaies. Wouldn't recommend roots n boots in Santiago not very clean
Yes, loved the municipal in Ponte de Lima - and the delicious restaurant with exceedingly kind ownerd opposite it.
 

KJFSophie

My Way, With Joy !
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2014 & 2015 ) ,Via San Francesco, Italy (2017 )
Camino Portugese (2018 )
#32
O Ninho was lovely, but in 2016, no mama - a young man was covering the shift.
I couldn't sleep due to a horrendous snoring plague, so took my sleeping bag outside to sleep on a lounge and had a lovely cat snuggle up to purr me to sleep.
I just returned from walking the Portuguese two days ago. I stayed at both, Casa Fernanda and O Ninho. Both were reserved ahead and both had to turn away numerous/dozens of pilgrims who expected to stay and had no reservations. Fernanda and her husband are fabulous hosts and the meal was one of the best on my Camino. O Ninho did not offer any food at all. The only thing available at O Ninho was hot tea that the young owner brought to the courtyard. We all had to walk down the hill to the cafe for any snack or dinner.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (1989 and 2016), Portugues - from Porto (2018)
#33
I certainly ditto everything about Casa Fernanda. Call 1-2-3 days ahead for a reservation, otherwise you may be out of luck. Number 2 on my parade of hit albergues is O Ninho in Rubiaes. Walk past the public albergue a few hundred meters. It’s on the right side of the highway. I made a reservation, but didn’t really need one that day. I looked back in my 2015 Camino journal for the following.

“The albergue ("The Nest") is run by a 35 year old, single woman, Marlene. "Mama" cooks dinner and we all eat family style. This albergue is almost on par with Fernanda's in terms of hospitality and experience. A definite #2.
I stayed at O Ninho in October. While it was certainly a very nice albergue, and I would recommend it, there no longer seems to be a communal meal. Or maybe that is something that only happens in high season now.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (1989 and 2016), Portugues - from Porto (2018)
#34
Yes, loved the municipal in Ponte de Lima - and the delicious restaurant with exceedingly kind ownerd opposite it.
The municipal in Ponte de Lima was nice, but be aware that it doesn't open until 4 pm. If you are arriving as days get shorter, drying your clothes after washing could be a challenge.
 



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