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Merino Wool Care

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I love Merino wool socks and base layer garments. Merino wool socks and wearables, like base layer tops and bottoms, have terrific properties. They are adaptive to both heat and cold; they are exceedingly breathable; They are tough; they are resistant to smelly, bacterial growth; and they can sustain their wearability over a prolonged period of active wear between washings.

When on a prolonged, multi-week backpacking trip, with the issues of washing clothing in backcountry wilderness, the relative ease of care and extended time between washings for Merino wool is appreciated. And yes, even though it is wilderness and solitude, the 'smelly factor' of Merino wool vs synthetics is superior. My Capilene base layers can become very smelly with a day's hard work and sweat, where Merino wool can go days before the skunk factor starts to set in.

On Camino, I do not suggest skipping laundry chores, which are relatively quick and easy as opposed to wilderness backpacking. But I do like the fact that if I am just too tired to want to deal with laundry for a day, my Merino wool is not going to create offense to my fellow pilgrims. My farting might, but not my socks.

Eventually, though, even Merino wool requires washing and drying. These are some basic rules that can preserve Merino wool’s quality.

  • Turn socks inside out. For other wool garments, like a sweater or base layer, the same applies.
  • If using a washing machine, use the gentle cycle in cool water. Hot water can shrink wool and make fibers brittle.
  • Use a mild soap or a Woolite-type product. Do not use any bleach which will destroy the wool fibers. Do not use fabric softener which can create a coating on the fibers and reduces the wool’s abilities to deal with moisture and regulate body temperature.
  • Air drying is best for Merino wool. Alternatively, use the ‘air’ or ‘no heat’ setting on the dryer. Different manufacturers will have differing directions, so check the ‘care label’ that came with the socks or garment.
  • Although Merino wool is not itchy to most people, heat from hot water and drying can make the fibers brittle causing them to ‘break’. This can make the Merino wool itchy.
  • Do not dry in direct sun. Both the heat and UV will damage the wool fibers.
  • Hanging socks to dry is not a problem. Keep in mind that hanging a garment to dry, though, like a sweater or base layer, can cause it to stretch or become misshapen. The weight of the water retained in the just rinsed garment has a lot to do with this, so gentle wringing out of excess water can help. Just be very gentle and do not try to wring it as dry as possible.
 
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I see lots of difference in the quality Woolpower and Icebreaker lately.
Even when washing and drying correctly the Icebreaker is pilling rapidly whereas the Woolpower stays intact.

Salt marks from sweating : much more with Icebreaker than with Woolpower.
Must be the structure of the fabric I guess?
 
I see lots of difference in the quality Woolpower and Icebreaker lately.
Even when washing and drying correctly the Icebreaker is pilling rapidly whereas the Woolpower stays intact.

Salt marks from sweating : much more with Icebreaker than with Woolpower.
Must be the structure of the fabric I guess?

Yup. :)

A lot of it has to do with the amount of synthetics blended into the Merino wool. The synthetic content is necessary to help with maintaining the resiliency of the shape of the garment. How much and what type of synthetic blend will be different from one manufacturer to the next.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Almost all of my Camino clothing is merino wool, and I have no problems with hanging any of it to dry in the sun.

It sounds like you have had no observable problems, and that is good. :)

The UV does damage wool fibers, and excessive radiant heat from the sun can also be a factor to the fabric as well. The frequency of the practice of drying in direct sun, and the length of time left on the line probably plays a role, too. Rather than just rely on my own observations and techniques, I also tried to incorporate what researchers and the manufacturers themselves have found and recommend. It also seems that the rapidity of any demonstrable effect depends on the intensity and frequency of exposure to either or both high heat and UV.

I have damaged Merino wool by doing the same thing - - hand washing and then sun drying. :) I do tend to forget things are hanging, though, so they can be left out longer than needed. The fabric doesn't necessarily show damage to the naked eye, but the first clue to me was the once comfortable-wearing garments became itchy. Others report that the fabric, after a period of time, seems to tear easy, as if it is disintegrating in spots.

I also wear base layer tops as a long sleeved, wicking shirt, and that gets the Merino wool a lot of exposure to the direct sun, more so than simple drying. Those shirts will average about a year's lifespan. Of course part of the problem is wear and tear, but I don't run into that same level of wear and tear with synthetic long sleeve shirts like REI's Sahara T's. I can really feel how rough and friably dry - -almost like a dry rot -- on areas of the wool not exposed to shoulder straps and rubbing.

I still dry my Merino outside, just out of the direct sunlight.
 
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All of that advice is good - I think it is helpful to understand how the fabric works. (For example the breakage of fibre possibly leading to itchiness was something I had not been aware of.)

However, this is one area of life where I am willing to live dangerously :eek:. When I go on the camino, I expect all of my clothes to behave themselves appropriately. If they shrink or fall apart or cannot tolerate a touch of heat for bedbug treatment, then they cannot continue with me. I am not on the camino to worry about my laundry. Thus far, I have had excellent luck in spite of handling my merino without special care.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
All of that advice is good - I think it is helpful to understand how the fabric works. (For example the breakage of fibre possibly leading to itchiness was something I had not been aware of.)

However, this is one area of life where I am willing to live dangerously :eek:. When I go on the camino, I expect all of my clothes to behave themselves appropriately. If they shrink or fall apart or cannot tolerate a touch of heat for bedbug treatment, then they cannot continue with me. I am not on the camino to worry about my laundry. Thus far, I have had excellent luck in spite of handling my merino without special care.

Fortunately, there are a number of fabrics from which to choose which can match individual needs :)
 
I love Merino wool socks and base layer garments. Merino wool socks and wearables, like base layer tops and bottoms, have terrific properties. They are adaptive to both heat and cold; they are exceedingly breathable; They are tough; they are resistant to smelly, bacterial growth; and they can sustain their wearability over a prolonged period of active wear between washings.

When on a prolonged, multi-week backpacking trip, with the issues of washing clothing in backcountry wilderness, the relative ease of care and extended time between washings for Merino wool is appreciated. And yes, even though it is wilderness and solitude, the 'smelly factor' of Merino wool vs synthetics is superior. My Capilene base layers can become very smelly with a day's hard work and sweat, where Merino wool can go days before the skunk factor starts to set in.

On Camino, I do not suggest skipping laundry chores, which are relatively quick and easy as opposed to wilderness backpacking. But I do like the fact that if I am just too tired to want to deal with laundry for a day, my Merino wool is not going to create offense to my fellow pilgrims. My farting might, but not my socks.

Eventually, though, even Merino wool requires washing and drying. These are some basic rules that can preserve Merino wool’s quality.

  • Turn socks inside out. For other wool garments, like a sweater or base layer, the same applies.
  • If using a washing machine, use the gentle cycle in cool water. Hot water can shrink wool and make fibers brittle.
  • Use a mild soap or a Woolite-type product. Do not use any bleach which will destroy the wool fibers. Do not use fabric softener which can create a coating on the fibers and reduces the wool’s abilities to deal with moisture and regulate body temperature.
  • Air drying is best for Merino wool. Alternatively, use the ‘air’ or ‘no heat’ setting on the dryer. Different manufacturers will have differing directions, so check the ‘care label’ that came with the socks or garment.
  • Although Merino wool is not itchy to most people, heat from hot water and drying can make the fibers brittle causing them to ‘break’. This can make the Merino wool itchy.
  • Do not dry in direct sun. Both the heat and UV will damage the wool fibers.
  • Hanging socks to dry is not a problem. Keep in mind that hanging a garment to dry, though, like a sweater or base layer, can cause it to stretch or become misshapen. The weight of the water retained in the just rinsed garment has a lot to do with this, so gentle wringing out of excess water can help. Just be very gentle and do not try to wring it as dry as possible.
After our conversations you almost had me completely convinced to go with Merino. I have always been super sensitive to wool. Just being near it would make me itch. Yes, I am a princess!!!! After your comment about heat and drying and seeing the word itchy I am definitely going with synthetics this winter!!!! Thanks Senor Bugg!!!!
 
After our conversations you almost had me completely convinced to go with Merino. I have always been super sensitive to wool. Just being near it would make me itch. Yes, I am a princess!!!! After your comment about heat and drying and seeing the word itchy I am definitely going with synthetics this winter!!!! Thanks Senor Bugg!!!!
My merino clothing may not last as long as @davebugg's, but despite the abuse that I give it - during in the sun, and even putting it into a hot dryer because of bedbug scares, it has not gotten itchy (yet)
 
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Hanging socks to dry is not a problem. Keep in mind that hanging a garment to dry, though, like a sweater or base layer, can cause it to stretch or become misshapen. The weight of the water retained in the just rinsed garment has a lot to do with this, so gentle wringing out of excess water can help. Just be very gentle and do not try to wring it as dry as possible.
A useful method for drying clothes on camino is to lay a microfiber towel on the garment and roll them up together and then pat or squeeze gently. Then unroll and squeeze as much water as you can from the towel. Repeat until you get very little water out of the towel. Then dry the garment and towel regularly.
 
My merino clothing may not last as long as @davebugg's, but despite the abuse that I give it - during in the sun, and even putting it into a hot dryer because of bedbug scares, it has not gotten itchy (yet)
Thanks and I appreciate the encouragement. But I am a Princess and a wimp and I am not taking any chances!!!! lol
 
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I know I'm breaking all the Merino Wool rules of the book, however, I tend to use a hair dryer if available to dry out my just washed socks. After wringer them in a twisted bath towel, I insert a hair dryer to essentially blow out some moisture. Then I hang them in a breezy area in my room. Later or in the morning I'll give them another hair dryer blowout. Now they are dry. This works for me and has on four different Camino's. Will it damage the socks? I don't care as I'll use them until they are no longer useful.
 
I used "Icebreakers" and other wool clothing on the Camino and found them perfect for active wear. The only drawback is that they are expensive and after the Camino you need to store them between uses in some type of container because moths love wool!! (Who knew?)
 
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I used "Icebreakers" and other wool clothing on the Camino and found them perfect for active wear. The only drawback is that they are expensive and after the Camino you need to store them between uses in some type of container because moths love wool!! (Who knew?)

Heck, don't store them; they are good to wear as casual attire or for at-home active wear. :) The more use you get out of them, the less they cost on a per diem basis. :)
 
I'm about sure my woolen clothes get the little holes because of usage, not because of moths. That's why synthetic fiber are mixed with some wool clothes. It becomes cheaper, more durable and probably softer.
Noname brand Merino used to be itchier than the expensive ones. I noticed it only comparing directly, but I can really wear all of them without noticing anything. I wear Merino because the synthetics get smelly in such a short time. Some holes or sweat stripes do not really bother me.

Another "princess" found Icebreaker OK, but the Quechua was denied. So you should give it a try.
It also does not need to be 100% Merino or an outdoor shirt. Fashion stores sometimes have some interesting mixes too (wool+silk, wool+Cashmere, wool+cotton or New Zealand Possum is all more cosy than pure wool). As a princess don't bye any ordinary wool, even less sensible persons should feel it first before buying it.

If price is an issue go for Aldi, Lidl, Decathlon offers, buy in sale or second hand. And don't forget: for the camino two Merino Ts will be plenty. You can also have an afternoon/night cotton T-shirt, to get away with only one.
 
Hi all,
I make things out of wool for a living and process a lot of fleeces right off the sheep. I have learned a lot about how wool behaves and what it does and doesn’t like and how to shrink or felt it and how not to and what makes it itchy or not itchy.
Wool fibers have scales that tangle when agitated in warm water with soap. This caused shrinking and felting. Temperature changes of wet wool also causes shrinking.
Wool likes acid conditions and dislikes alkaline conditions. Laundry detergents are more alkaline and are designed so because they work well on synthetics. They are damaging to wool. Woolite is more acid but so is your average dish soap. Add some vinegar to rinse water if you need to make the ph more acid.
In garments made with wool that doesn’t shrink, the wool fibers have had the scales knocked off or covered or both. Bleach knocks off the scales. Resins are used to coat the fibers so scales can’t tangle.
Some things that make wool itchy:
Large fiber diameter - merino usually is small and fine, as are some lamb fleeces
Chemicals - used to dissolve vegetable matter that the sheep has gathered walking around in the pasture. There are safer ways to remove this stuff.
Damaged fibers - from chemicals or improper washing causing fiber ends to stick out.
Carded fibers - for woolen spinning as opposed to combed fibers for worsted spinning. Fibers are made to go in all directions (again ends sticking out) as opposed to aligning fibers in parallel.
As for bed bug treatment and wool - extreme measures for extreme circumstances :eek: I threw my DRY non or less shrinking type wool sweater and socks in a hot dryer for 40 minutes while on the Frances and they suffered no shrinkage.
 
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I love my Smart Wool. When I come home after walking and even throughout the year, I try my best to clean them well to prolong their life (they're expensive). I place them in the washer on delicate cycle with Woolight Delicates Care - it comes in a 16 oz. bottle with a pink cap. The Woolight you typically see on the shelves in the laundry aisle at stores is a detergent formula. The pink cap formula is for "Extra Delicates Care" for delicate fabrics like silk & wool. I do an extra rinse, then I follow up with a wash cycle with Eucalan - a no rinse delicate wash. It comes in a variety of fragrances, but I've chosen both eucalyptus & lavender fragrances since both oils used in the wash formula are a natural moth and flea inhibitor. I don't rinse after this cycle. Then I lay them out to dry. My approach may be over-the-top, but I'm content with it.
 
I love Merino wool socks and base layer garments. Merino wool socks and wearables, like base layer tops and bottoms, have terrific properties. They are adaptive to both heat and cold; they are exceedingly breathable; They are tough; they are resistant to smelly, bacterial growth; and they can sustain their wearability over a prolonged period of active wear between washings.

When on a prolonged, multi-week backpacking trip, with the issues of washing clothing in backcountry wilderness, the relative ease of care and extended time between washings for Merino wool is appreciated. And yes, even though it is wilderness and solitude, the 'smelly factor' of Merino wool vs synthetics is superior. My Capilene base layers can become very smelly with a day's hard work and sweat, where Merino wool can go days before the skunk factor starts to set in.

On Camino, I do not suggest skipping laundry chores, which are relatively quick and easy as opposed to wilderness backpacking. But I do like the fact that if I am just too tired to want to deal with laundry for a day, my Merino wool is not going to create offense to my fellow pilgrims. My farting might, but not my socks.

Eventually, though, even Merino wool requires washing and drying. These are some basic rules that can preserve Merino wool’s quality.

  • Turn socks inside out. For other wool garments, like a sweater or base layer, the same applies.
  • If using a washing machine, use the gentle cycle in cool water. Hot water can shrink wool and make fibers brittle.
  • Use a mild soap or a Woolite-type product. Do not use any bleach which will destroy the wool fibers. Do not use fabric softener which can create a coating on the fibers and reduces the wool’s abilities to deal with moisture and regulate body temperature.
  • Air drying is best for Merino wool. Alternatively, use the ‘air’ or ‘no heat’ setting on the dryer. Different manufacturers will have differing directions, so check the ‘care label’ that came with the socks or garment.
  • Although Merino wool is not itchy to most people, heat from hot water and drying can make the fibers brittle causing them to ‘break’. This can make the Merino wool itchy.
  • Do not dry in direct sun. Both the heat and UV will damage the wool fibers.
  • Hanging socks to dry is not a problem. Keep in mind that hanging a garment to dry, though, like a sweater or base layer, can cause it to stretch or become misshapen. The weight of the water retained in the just rinsed garment has a lot to do with this, so gentle wringing out of excess water can help. Just be very gentle and do not try to wring it as dry as possible.
Some advice from Icebreaker. Interesting they say to wash garments occasionally with denim jeans ( zipper shut) to reduce pilling. Some good info on their website.

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The very thin ‘teccy’ fabric Icebreaker tee shirts do get holes, but I use some of that iron on patch fabric.

It's interesting, my REI Shara long sleeve crew neck T's go on forever. My Patagonia Capilene long sleeve crew necks are a bit more susceptible to wear and tear, but do well overall. My Smartwool 150 base layer tops are wonderful and they wear out the quickest; but they perform the best in both hot and cold weather.
 
The very thin ‘teccy’ fabric Icebreaker tee shirts do get holes, but I use some of that iron on patch fabric.
Dave, any thoughts on the following? What if the areas on a pack such as straps and belt that will rub against the wool had a Engo patch applied there or an equivalent such as a Teflon like house wrap (Tyvek or such)?
 
Dave, any thoughts on the following? What if the areas on a pack such as straps and belt that will rub against the wool had a Engo patch applied there or an equivalent such as a Teflon like house wrap (Tyvek or such)?

That would definitely help reduce wear from the rubbing. The downside might be that the straps then are unpleasantly slippery. :) Keeping straps well-positioned might be challenging if they are 'ice skating' around.

Perhaps one could apply some extra fabric swatches to those points of contact on shirts? A bit of fabric glue and stick on some fabric?
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I see lots of difference in the quality Woolpower and Icebreaker lately.
Even when washing and drying correctly the Icebreaker is pilling rapidly whereas the Woolpower stays intact.

Salt marks from sweating : much more with Icebreaker than with Woolpower.
Must be the structure of the fabric I guess?

Don’t forget there are lots of weights of icebreaker fabric. From ultra lightweight at 130 up to around 260 grams The lower weights won’t take the beating heavier weights will take.
 
Last year my family and I spent 10 months traveling around the world, with the Camino near the end. My husband had a black icebreaker polo that he wore pretty much daily through cold and tropical lands ( we each had a small carry on rollar bag plus a day bag- left rollars in storage during the Camino). Any ways, 9 months in, the shirt served him daily with an occasional hand wash as did the Merino socks, neck tubes and t-s the rest of use used. We did notice when we arrived in Santiago that maroon was perhaps a better description of the color. That was after every washing and scenerio imaginable. He still has it, but is only allowed to wear it at home.
 

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