More about the coastal route north of Porto, please

[Bmatth3790]

Hello--I'll be walking solo from Porto, leaving there on the 10th or 11th of Sept. The coastal route looks so very attractive, but I worry about accommodations. One person mentioned the fire stations, which I assume are in the town centres. How about distances between villages/towns large enough to have fire stations or budget hotels? I don't want to walk any further than 30-32 km a day. And am I right that the way is signposted well? And is the route well above the ocean, as opposed to walking on a sandy beach? Many questions. Hope for some guidance from some kind pilgrims!!

Bill

 

[larryflo]

Hi,
I took the Coastal route this past May. However, it was by bike, and may not be of much help to you. Either I was not looking, or I totally missed the way markings. The first one that I saw was 75 km from Porto. It did not matter, as the sea was a short distance from the highway. The towns were fairly close together. The main road had ample space to ride or walk, as there were sidewalks for a good portion of the route. I do not think you will have trouble finding inexpensive hotels. I never saw a firehouse, but I was not looking. Never saw a walking pilgrim until Spain.
Frankly, I would not take the route again as it did not have the flavor of the camino (this was my fourth camino). In fact, it had no flavor at all. Even in Spain there was not much more camino flavor. The Via de la Plata was much more interesting.

 

[JoyAnderson]

My query about the coastal or the inland route is referring to leaving Irun on the Camino del Norte then branching off at Oviedo to Santiago, any comments on that Coastal route. Buen Camino to all Joy

 

[Valdis Pauzers]

Re: More about the northern coastal route, please

Hi Joy,
I believe you are confusing the Portuguese route with the North Coast route and passing onto the 'primitivo'.
This is exactly what I did in late May & early June of this year, as you say starting from Irun (French/Spanish coastal border).
It's a great route and now well marked, except where there is an over-exuberance of roadworks (!).
You have to plan a bit more for the days' walks but albergues and rest stops and food is readily available excluding going over the Hospitales primitivo stage. Very worthwhile stops, churches, monasteries and scenery. If you are into beaches, you many not even get to Santiago ! Too many, so beautiful as to even name, although the Atlantic waters are always cool and can be also quite deep. Nonetheless great for a paddle & soak of tired muscles at the end of the day.
Albergues recommended (in order from Irun): Irun, Orio, Monastery Zernazza, Pobena, Guemes, Serdi/Estrada, (Pension Carlos I , Villaviciosa) (Northen Route) then onto Oviedo: Pola di Siero, new, then Primitivo: Campiello Cafe Herminia, Lugo & Arca.
Any more questions fire away for this route.
Happy St James' Day to all,
Regards, Valdis.

 

[JoyAnderson]

Hello Valdis,
Just receiving a reply to my query re the Camino Del Norte made my feet itch to get going again.
Please let me know all about your 'walk on the way' I am very interested in your stops and stays and advice. I have tried to find a Guide Book for the Coastal Route Del Norte and the Primitivo in English with no success so I will be putting together my own guide between now and mid May 2011.
Where are you from, howmany Caminos have you walked? What was your best moment on your Camino?
I have only walked part of the Camino Frances St Jean Peid de Port to Burgos then a train through the Mesata to Astorga then walked from there to Santiago. I have taken the Hospitalero Course and hopefully I will get the opportunity to volunteer my services for 2 weeks en route on the Del Norte or Primtivo. I have been searching for lists of albergues for this route with little success, but I just know I will also be guided to all I will require on my next pilgrimage. But a little preparation is not a bad idea.
Buen camino, Joy :lol:

 

[larryflo]

Hi Joy,
I have never walked the Norte. I have done the Portuguese, Plata, and the Camino Frances twice. I did them by bike, so I am not a good source of information for you. But, I have the books from the Confraternity of St. James. Go to their website http://www.csj.org.uk. You might also google john Brierly. I don't know if he has written about the Norte.

Have a great time.

 

[Valdis Pauzers]

Re: More about the coastal route north/primitivo, please

Hello Valdis,
Just receiving a reply to my query re the Camino Del Norte made my feet itch to get going again.
Please let me know all about your 'walk on the way' I am very interested in your stops and stays and advice. I have tried to find a Guide Book for the Coastal Route Del Norte and the Primitivo in English with no success so I will be putting together my own guide between now and mid May 2011.
Where are you from, howmany Caminos have you walked? What was your best moment on your Camino?
I have only walked part of the Camino Frances St Jean Peid de Port to Burgos then a train through the Mesata to Astorga then walked from there to Santiago. I have taken the Hospitalero Course and hopefully I will get the opportunity to volunteer my services for 2 weeks en route on the Del Norte or Primtivo. I have been searching for lists of albergues for this route with little success, but I just know I will also be guided to all I will require on my next pilgrimage. But a little preparation is not a bad idea.
Buen camino, Joy :lol:

Hi Joy,
Sorry for delayed response (!) There are the CSJ books in English for both Primitivo (Oviedo to Melide) and Northen routes (which include Irun to Santiago, but not the Primitivo deviation, hence you need both). These were my original sources of information but when it boils down to it, you need to know your fitness level, normal reasonable pace and be flexible with day to day plans (which can be readily done if you keep asking info from hospitaleros and fellow pilgrims).
My 26 day pilgrimage, which might be too hard for most, entailed stopovers at ;- Irun, Orio (great) Deba, Monastery Zernazza (fabulous), Meakur (average to poor), Bibao (YHA), Pobena (nice), Castro Urdiles, Santona, Guemes (a camino famous stopover), Santander, Santillana del Mar (nice but touristy), Serdio/Estrada, Poo di Llanes, San Esteban Leces, Villaviciosa, Norena/Pola di Siero, Escampolero, Salas, Campiello, Berducedo, Fonsagrada, Cadavo, Lugo, Melide, Arca, Santiago (!!)
Some of these need a lot of walking. Some less so and this depended on what was possible on albergue accommodation and how my legs felt (pretty bad after 8 to 11 days but things get better with due attention). Towards the end 40kms tended to be easy and readily done with stopovers for pilgrimage viewing/contemplation as well as dining.
I erronously wore 'mountain boots' with hard soles, this route does not need anything so extreme. Good distance walking boots/shoes would suffice. You will do fair stretches on tarmac road which gets bad if you have mountain walking shoes . You need a 'compromise' shoe or boot for varying surfaces and walking conditions. Wash socks (+) and care for legs and feet at end of each day.
Hope it goes as well for you.
Best Regards,
Valdis, England