Most challenging sections on the Camino Frances

[sillydoll]

I have been reading a blog and some of the comments made me remember how challenging I've found some of the paths on the Camino. Which were yours?

Her blog posts:

Viskarret to Zubiri - Thank God for trekking poles. No, I mean literally, thank God for trekking poles. Because I don´t know that I would have made it to Zubiri without them. Terrain: Difficult (Rumor has it, it is one of the most difficult days of the Walk because of the steep decline into Zubiri.)

Zubiri to Arre - Today was the toughest day yet.

Other challenging sections for me were:
The descent from the Alto de Perdon (I twisted an ankle on the river boulders and suffered for days afterwards!)

The long, hard slog into Burgos

The short climb onto the mesteta after Castrojeriz

Walking about 1.5 days out of Leon next to a highway.

The steep, rocky descent from el Acebo to Molinaseca

The climb up to O Cebreriro

The rocky, rooler-coaster path to Triacastela

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The short climb onto the mesteta after Castrojeriz

It seemed to go on forever on my first ascent. I timed it the second time, and it took 21 minutes! Perception can really distort reality!

The steep, rocky descent from el Acebo to Molinaseca

Every time I do it, I swear I will take a taxi the next time. So far, I have stayed on my feet, but ...

Personally, I disliked the "main route" from Cacabelos to Villafranca del Bierzo. It is a side trip with no real purpose, and it was very hot and humid at the end of the day. The alternative route in Brierley keeps you on the road for a couple of kilometers, then heads across the vineyards. It saves several kilometers.

 

[tyrrek]

The short climb onto the mesteta after Castrojeriz

It seemed to go on forever on my first ascent. I timed it the second time, and it took 21 minutes! Perception can really distort reality!

I had exactly the same experience, although I think the weather played a part as well. It was much cooler second time.

I agree about the slog into Burgos (which can be avoided) and leaving Leon (although it's only a couple of hours). You have to be on your toes negotiating your way through Logrono as well.

The long straight stretch just before Calzadilla de la Cueza is a killer, just because it seems never-ending! :roll:

Buen Camino!

 

[sillydoll]

Falcon, last year in September one of the ladies walking with me had blisters on the pads of her feet. She found the first few km on the path after el Acebo excrutiating so we took to the road.

The road (which was probably the original trail to Molinaseca) winds its way below the path and we could see pilgrims way above us most of the way. It was a very quiet road and before we knew it we were in Molinaseca.

If anyone finds the rocky path difficult, the road is a good alternitve, but just rmember to face the oncoming traffic, listen out for vehicles and don't walk two or three abreast.

 

[wayfarer]

Our most challenging day was between Hornillos del camino and Hontanas.It rained very hard that day and the path was thick with mud. Not ordinary mud but adobe type mud that build up on your boots with every step so you got taller and heavier. Every 100 mts or so we had to stop and scrape off the mud and start again. It was the cyclists I felt sorry for as the mud built up on their wheels and jammed the brakes, they really had it hard. We eventualy got into Honanas at about 16.30 exhausted and hungry but after a hot shower and a vino tino the world was in balance again.

 

[tyrrek]

Our most challenging day was between Hornillos del camino and Hontanas.

That's a pity because without the rain and mud that is one of my favourite sections of the whole Camino. If I knew I was going to die tomorrow I'd ask for my ashes to be spread there. It's one of those places where you can't see a single building, road, car etc for miles! (Except the wind farms in the distance). Buen Camino!

 

[SabsP]

For me too the steep, rocky descent from el Acebo to Molinaseca and also the walk after Villafranca Montes de Oca to San Juan de Ortega : those pines and pines...etc...and pines. I will take the bus from Villafranca to Burgos next time.

 

[jpflavin1]

The most challenging day to me was the Napoleon route from SJPdP to Roncesvalles. It took almost 8 hours and I was exhausted.

The most dangerous part of the walk is crossing the bridge on the outskirts of Leon.

The climb out of Castrojeriz is steep but a short well maintained road. This is best done in the morning. The sunrise view from here is spectacular.

Both times I have slogged through rain and mud to Hontanas. A difficult walk in wet conditions.

I like stopping in La Faba, so I detour of the road on the walk to O'cebreriro. This is a steep winding rocky path to a beautiful small Albergue maintained by Germans.

Descent into Molineseca is steep but you just have to be careful. Could be more challenging if raining.

I also dislike the slog into Burgos. Tried two different routes.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[wayfarer]

For me too the steep, rocky descent from el Acebo to Molinaseca and also the walk after Villafranca Montes de Oca to San Juan de Ortega : those pines and pines...etc...and pines. I will take the bus from Villafranca to Burgos next time.

The hike from Cruz de Ferro to Molinaseca for me was probably the best day of the camino. The experience at the cross was disappointing, but thats another story, but after we left the cross the walk down was beautiful. It was a sunny warm day and the trail was alive with birdsong and the smell of wild flowers, it was pure magic. we stopped in Molinaseca for a break but met up with some people we knew and ended up staying there and having dinner together. My favourite day

 

[SabsP]

Hi Wayfarer, yes I enjoyed it too immensely but I really had to concentrate while taking my steps. So challenging in that way.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I think that decline into Molinaseca is difficult for most folks. In September, it was so windy it literally would knock you off your feet coming down into Acebo.

Having said that, has anyone here ever stayed in Acebo? Seems like a cool little village.

 

[wayfarer]

I think that decline into Molinaseca is difficult for most folks. In September, it was so windy it literally would knock you off your feet coming down into Acebo.

Having said that, has anyone here ever stayed in Acebo? Seems like a cool little village.

Yes a really beautiful village, we stopped there for coffee on the way down, would have stayed overnight but it was too early. The way down is tough going and hard on the legs ..... but the views.

 

[scruffy1]

The most difficult stretch for me is from Arco de Pina to Santiago de Compostela. Sure the excitement is at a pitch, the feeling of accomplishment and wholeness with ones self and efforts, the sudden awareness of "I really did it!" is marred by a stroll around the airport, the walk through a "forest" up to the TV station, dreary San Marcos and while the view from Monte Gozo can be marvelous the army barracks of an albergue there is heart-breaking, the slide down to Santiago and walking over the autopisa...one must meditate intensely to remember the more inspiring sections. #2? The apparently unending sidewalk grind out from Leon.

 

[tyrrek]

The most dangerous part of the walk is crossing the bridge on the outskirts of Leon.

Yes! On the stage into Leon there's a dreadful bridge that they are apparently wanting to replace but haven't. I hate any kind of bridge, and my walking buddies laughed at me. However even they started running at that bridge just to get over it as quickly as possible. It has no handrails or any kind of restraint at some points.

At least this year they'd closed that dodgy footbridge out of Portomarin, because it was a nightmare! There's a perfectly good road bridge nearby with little traffic.

Buen and safe Camino!

 

[mspath]

My worst Camino Frances difficuties are; climbing up to Ibaneta whatever the weather, descending Alto de Perdon across scree, trudging into Burgos from Ages, walking the historic Vilarente bridge with eastbound truck traffic at my elbow, and crossing against fierce wind on the new pilgrim bridge into Leon. I avoid the dangerous steep descent on shale from El Acebo, which always IS a pleasant place to stop, by walking down route LE-140 until Molinasecca.

 

[tyrrek]

Having said that, has anyone here ever stayed in Acebo? Seems like a cool little village.

Acebo is great! When we were there (spring 2011) it was great weather, fantastic views etc, but the albergue was full. They sent us down to a house towards the end of the village and it was great. We had a semi-private room that looked a bit like a prison cell, but what do you need? Beautiful village, and I think quite unique along the Frances. Buen Camino!

 

[lindseh]

For me, it was also the descent in Molinaseca. I had tendonitis in both of my shins and that was a particularly bad day. Most gentle declines on the camino I walked backward as it was too painful... so this part just about killed me. I think I cried almost the entire time, which was a shame because I couldn't appreciate the lovely scenery through my tears... Perhaps I'll walk the road next time.

 

[CaminoGen]

The day I walked from Ponferrada to Pereje was tough. The walk through Cacabelos, the winery and Villafranca del Bierzo nearly killed me. Luckily, I kept bumping into people (including Ksam) that gave me the push to keep on. The last 5 km along the road wasn't nearly as bad as the first part of the day. Plus, the albergue in Pereje is lovely and the restaurant in the village serves the best gallego soup.

 

[AJ]

Descent into Molineseca is steep but you just have to be careful. Could be more challenging if raining.

I twisted my ankle on this descent the first time I made it. Thank God for Ibuprufemo.

 

[newfydog]

The morass of busy roads into Burgos
---and the last 50 kms, a mix of crowds and the dreaded end to the trip

Everything else is great.

 

[mralisn]

My most challenging section...the bus ride away from Santiago after I have finished.

 

[crad80]

The most challenging day for me was Day One! The Napoleon route from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. It was raining heavily and very cold. It took almost us almost 8 hours. Plus, I was carrying more than 20 kgs in my backpack (way too much weight for the Camino de Santiago). But it was fun though -- I love the rain!!!! Buen Camino C-rad

 

[fraluchi]

... Which were yours? [...]

Having walked several times the Camino Francés from Roncesvalles to Santiago de Compostela, challenges varied according to the weather and one's physical conditions. For example, the Alto de Mostelares (after Castrojeríz) was a tough ascent on one occasion (midday heat, walking from Hontanas) and a "piece of cake" on another (starting from Castrojeríz, rested, early morning in fresh, dry air).
Another stretch (from Ruitelán to La Laguna before O'Cebreiro) was beautiful when starting from Ruitelán under perfect weather conditions, and awful after leaving Trabadelo under rain and low temperatures.
The walk from Arzúa to O'Pedrouzo, a mere 18 km., under incessant rain, stormy wind, freezing temperatures, over tracks reduced to rivers, is quite different in summer time.
I dislike the long, straight 17 km walk from Carrion de los Condes. The terrible surface was "improved" for the Holy Year, but it is still too monotonous a stretch for my taste. :wink:

 

[MCVet]

I don't remember exactly where it was, but there was a stretch where you walk by a military base and you climb up to a plateau on very rocky grounds, and then it's flat for a while. I believe there's also a large cross up there and when I went through, it had a mosaic labyrinth made of rocks. Anyhow, that was a rough part because you go up on extremely rocky ground and down on similar ground. There were a lot of tiring and tough days but for some reason that part *really* sticks out in my mind.

Otherwise, the descent down into...I want to say it was like Villafranca or Villamayor or some such. I forget the exact name but someone else can fill it in: you walk into the town and pass a church on your right, then you turn left over a bridge into the village proper. On your left is the river left untouched with a bar on the shore, and on the right the river has been made into a swimming pool. Anyhow, the descent down into that town took forever and it was a tease all the way down because you could see the town, but it never seemed to get closer!

 

[mralisn]

Hi MCVet,

I'm wondering if you are also talking about Molinaseca by the way you describe the decent, river, swimming area. Do the other posts above sound like the same place?

 

[lindseh]

I don't remember exactly where it was, but there was a stretch where you walk by a military base and you climb up to a plateau on very rocky grounds, and then it's flat for a while. I believe there's also a large cross up there and when I went through, it had a mosaic labyrinth made of rocks. Anyhow, that was a rough part because you go up on extremely rocky ground and down on similar ground. There were a lot of tiring and tough days but for some reason that part *really* sticks out in my mind.

Pretty sure that was in between Ages and Burgos, not sure of the name of the area though. That walk sticks out particularly to me because it was uncharacteristically (for my camino) FREEZING that morning!

 

[GunnarW]

MCvet (first paragraph) is talking about the part between Atapuerca and Olmos heading to Burgos. The military base (I would call it more a military exercise field) is at the left side behind the oxidated fence. The difficulty of the path is that it's rocky.

Talking about a town that will never come closer: Logroño !!!
For the first time seen kilometers before Viana.
And it's still not there when you see the big green plate "Comunidad de La Rioja" - Welcome to Logroño.
Finally so close when reaching Felisa - Higos, agua y amor!

There is a work around concerning the hill after Castrojeriz. Just before that hill, there is an sign post to the right for bikes. In fact: yes! You can follow that part and walk/bike just around the hill. You have an overview of the situation if you would climb up to the castle.

 

[fortview]

As well as that horribly rocky descent to Molinaseca , I would add the descent to Trabadelo ! The down hills always seemed so much harder than going up !

 

[Deleted member 3000]

climb up to a plateau on very rocky grounds, and then it's flat for a while. I believe there's also a large cross up there and when I went through, it had a mosaic labyrinth made of rocks.

Just before the descent into Astorga?

 

[MCVet]

I'm wondering if you are also talking about Molinaseca by the way you describe the decent, river, swimming area. Do the other posts above sound like the same place?

Yah that's it. Molinaseca! God I hated that decline! Evidently if you follow the road it's a lot smoother but I was being obstinate and went into the hills. My knees didn't forgive me for several days lol.

Just before the descent into Astorga?

Naw it's the part that Gunnar is describing. I don't remember too many problems getting into Astorga, other than it was another one of those cathedral towns where you see it seemingly from the moment you start that day and then arrive some 10 hours later lol.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Astorga, other than it was another one of those cathedral towns where you see it seemingly from the moment you start that day and then arrive some 10 hours later lol.

"Seeing it is not the same as being there."

 

[Deleted member 3000]

If anyone finds the rocky path difficult, the road is a good alternative

I did that once from El Acebo, and it was continuous, gentle down. I was using my MBT rocker bottom boots, which are not great on slippery rocks. However, the last part took a substantial detour, over a kilometer probably. That stuck in my mind, so I took the marked route the next two times in normal boots, and hated it as much as ever! There is one canyon that is a very nice view. The rest: not so much.

 

[Olivares]

This is a good thread idea-- A lot of conversations about how the crossing of the Pyrenees is so difficult and I actually can list 2-3 places which were FAR more difficult to me than the Pyrenees crossing:

1. The last 5Kms descent into Zubiri were very rough; steep descent with small rocks and not much to hang on to makes a bad combo taking a toll on knees and hips. This is the part where I kissed and hugged my walking stick. I, literally, had a smile ear to ear when the Zubiri sign came to view.

2. The ascent to Altos del Perdon is no walk in the park. It gets steep uphill, and then again....

3. About 10 Kms before Estella, a lightning storm made me ran for dear life to a decrepit horse barn by the side of the Camino. As I busted through (what was left of) a door, I realized there were 3 other pilgrims already seeking shelter. I was so glad to see them! The Camino always provides.

 

[annakappa]

The Alto de Mosterales is the descent that I definitely do not like, although last year we started early and walked a good part in the dark, which helped, because we didn't have to look at this long upwards incline with no shade at all. I have walked it 4 times and each time groan at the thought!
Most gravelly steep descents need continual concentration: descent to Zubiri, after the Alto de Perdon, descent to El Acebo and then down to Molinaseca. Most monotonous part, for me is the long stretch between Carrion de Los Condes and Calzadilla de la Cuesa.
I personally love the ascent up to O'Cebreiro on an old mule track, plenty of shade, at least the first part, plenty of places to sit and take a pause - and, once higher up, the scenery is beautiful.
Last year we walked the Aragonés and the descent from The Monastery of San Juan de la Peña was definately the worst descent that I have ever done on the Camino. Anne

 

[fraluchi]

... the descent from The Monastery of San Juan de la Peña was definately the worst descent that I have ever done on the Camino.

So much so that for two days she couldn't walk because of knee problems :mrgreen:

 

[ajp]

I agree with all of the difficult parts identified by the previous posters but would add another, which comes after Santiago, if you go on to Finisterre; the path down to Cee from San Pedro ( a few kms after Oliviera) is steep, winding, wet, muddy and slippery with vegetation. I did it on a rainy day in late October and found it probably the most difficult descent of all, slipping and falling in the mud a couple of times, the hiking poles were not much help. A warm room and a couple of stiff drinks in Cee repaired the damage quickly!

 

[MCVet]

Oh I got two things to add.

Going from Villafranca de Bierzo to Trabadelo, if you take the route that Brierley marks as the 'recommended route', it's a much better option, but the descent into Trabadelo was murder for me. Steepest descent by far, and it's just turn after turn (the road does switchbacks here, and you go pretty much straight down with no switchbacking). I hated that part PLUS when I finally got to the bottom (you emerge in an awesome forest) the bottom half of my bocadillo I had just made fell off and into the leaves, so i went hungry for lunch that day.

The other part isn't 'challenging' in the traditional sense, but actually rather easy. But I hated it. It certainly challenged me mentally. Walking on all the 'senda' roads to and from Leon was so terrible. So absolutely boring. People say that the Meseta is hard but I thought it was a breeze. Well i finally got a taste for how they must've felt walking along that senda. Avoid it at all costs if you can take alternate routes.

 

[tyrrek]

... if you go on to Finisterre; the path down to Cee from San Pedro ( a few kms after Oliviera) is steep, winding, wet, muddy and slippery with vegetation. I did it on a rainy day in late October and found it probably the most difficult descent of all, slipping and falling in the mud a couple of times, the hiking poles were not much help. A warm room and a couple of stiff drinks in Cee repaired the damage quickly!

Yes. I seem to be unusual in that I love downhill sections and dislike uphills (I'm a smoker, so maybe that's why ) But that downhill into Cee is pretty extreme!

The other thing to bear in mind when dealing with these sections is how many other pilgrims are around you. If you find part of the route difficult or daunting sit down for a while and have something to eat until someone else comes along. That way you can look out for each other, but the best advice is probably just to take your time.

Buen Camino!

 

[Al the optimist]

Totally agree about downhill before Cee. Alone and walking in mist it was time to be cautious about finding the right way. I'm sure I did, but I remember a steep and very boulder section with difficult footing where it would have been easy to twist an ankle or trip. Did I go the right way?
allan

 

[wayfarer]

I would be more like tyrrek in that I like the downhill sections and I really enjoyed the decent into Cee, it was a warm sunny day and the views were spectacular, loved it, also the decent into Molinaseca, loved that.

 

[ausmarko]

The most challenging for me, but also the best day of the Camino was the section from Villafranca to Herreias via the challenging three peak mountain route. 10 hours on a hot day but so rewarding in that it was the only day that the path was not easily defined and navigation was required. Sharing with four other people made the day a joy in shared discovery and pain and passed through little villages not readily frequented by pilgrims. Rest stops and a picnic stop with my companions and the occasional comical meeting of disorientated pilgrims appearing from circuitous dead end trails made this day an endurance test but the most rewarding of the Camino Frances. We decided a hotel room at the end of the day was richly deserved and a great meal and late start the next morning topped off a great but hard day on the Camino.

 

[tyrrek]

Totally agree about downhill before Cee. Alone and walking in mist it was time to be cautious about finding the right way. I'm sure I did, but I remember a steep and very boulder section with difficult footing where it would have been easy to twist an ankle or trip. Did I go the right way?
allan

That's how I remember it Allan! Buen Camino!

 

[sillydoll]

The walk downhill into Cee was a steep, slipery slope when I did it a couple of years ago.

However, it is on the Finisterre Route - not technically on the Camino Frances. Perhaps we need new threads on the most challening sections on all the different route headings? I'm sure they would be most helpful for new timers on those routes.

 

[Abbeydore]

The most challenging for me, but also the best day of the Camino was the section from Villafranca to Herreias via the challenging three peak mountain route. 10 hours on a hot day but so rewarding in that it was the only day that the path was not easily defined and navigation was required. Sharing with four other people made the day a joy in shared discovery and pain and passed through little villages not readily frequented by pilgrims. Rest stops and a picnic stop with my companions and the occasional comical meeting of disorientated pilgrims appearing from circuitous dead end trails made this day an endurance test but the most rewarding of the Camino Frances. We decided a hotel room at the end of the day was richly deserved and a great meal and late start the next morning topped off a great but hard day on the Camino.

Yes, ausmarko, you're right, you had wonderful weather, we had snow & white-out, a beautiful day all the same, with a lovely evening meal & copious amounts of red wine, but not much heating.
Did you know about our Mr Peter Robin's(moderator) map. Helped me a huge amount even though the route thru' the quarry(before San Fiz do Seo) has been changed:
http://maps.peterrobins.co.uk/e/2274.ht ... yers=B00TT.
I blew-up to A4 sheets(5no.).
Did you get tripped-up by the invisable ground brambles :mrgreen: :?:
Buen Camino for your next Camino
David

 

[ausmarko]

Wow, i wish i had known about this before hand Abbeydore Didn't get tripped by the ground brambles but nearly took the wrong path at the hut by the stream after Moral de Valcarce. Who would have thought the correct path of the three was to walk along the stream for 30m!? This section tripped up a lot of people.

 

[Andrew James Doyle]

I have been reading a blog and some of the comments made me remember how challenging I've found some of the paths on the Camino. Which were yours?

Her blog posts:

Viskarret to Zubiri - Thank God for trekking poles. No, I mean literally, thank God for trekking poles. Because I don´t know that I would have made it to Zubiri without them. Terrain: Difficult (Rumor has it, it is one of the most difficult days of the Walk because of the steep decline into Zubiri.)

Zubiri to Arre - Today was the toughest day yet.

Other challenging sections for me were:
The descent from the Alto de Perdon (I twisted an ankle on the river boulders and suffered for days afterwards!)

The long, hard slog into Burgos

The short climb onto the mesteta after Castrojeriz

Walking about 1.5 days out of Leon next to a highway.

The steep, rocky descent from el Acebo to Molinaseca

The climb up to O Cebreriro

The rocky, rooler-coaster path to Triacastela

Completely agree with the drop to Zubiri! It was wet, steep and a long day! My Mrs had twited her knee so ever step down hurt and the exuberance of the day before had worn off some! Think she also suffered what we runners call "The Wall" where your body runs out of Glycogen energy! But we got off the hill, re-fuled, rested well and never looked back! Every day after was like a blessing and our bodies grew stronger for every hill to follow and valley to drop into! Buen Camino

 

[AnnieY]

Yes! On the stage into Leon there's a dreadful bridge that they are apparently wanting to replace but haven't. I hate any kind of bridge, and my walking buddies laughed at me. However even they started running at that bridge just to get over it as quickly as possible. It has no handrails or any kind of restraint at some points.

At least this year they'd closed that dodgy footbridge out of Portomarin, because it was a nightmare! There's a perfectly good road bridge nearby with little traffic.

Buen and safe Camino!

where is that bridge?

 

[naplesdon]

I think that decline into Molinaseca is difficult for most folks. In September, it was so windy it literally would knock you off your feet coming down into Acebo.

Having said that, has anyone here ever stayed in Acebo? Seems like a cool little village.

I stayed there in 2012 and had a wonderful stop at Meson El Acebo, nice terrace and good restaurant. I walked down the hill from Cruz de Ferro after leaving Rabanal on clear cool moring, I can't image doing that descent from Cruz de Ferro in the rain, it would be a killer.

 

[Icacos]

By far the most physically challenging part for me was the descent from Alto de Perdon. Even though I had good inner soles, good boots and was fairly fit, walking over those stones just about did me in. My feet never hurt so much.

I figure for the extreme discomfort I endured that day, the Alto de Perdon is aptly named.

 

[clearskiescamino]

The descent into Molinaseca was the hardest part for me..luckily we had sun and clear skies that day, no rain.
I have yet to walk St Jean to Logrono..so I am apprehensive about the descents into Zubiri and from Alto del Perdon.

 

[mspath]

where is that bridge?

Villarente but new bridge installed 2013. In the past we pilgrims walked on a narrow medieval bridge at Villarente in frightening competition with on-coming contemporary lorry traffic. The traffic usually won. In 2013 a dedicated pedestrian-only bridge was added. What a relief it was late last autumn to gently stroll along this elegant wooden way without fearing being hit or run over!

 

[Rich Jones]

Pretty sure that was in between Ages and Burgos, not sure of the name of the area though. That walk sticks out particularly to me because it was uncharacteristically (for my camino) FREEZING that morning!

That was also a difficult morning for me, but mainly because I had a mini migraine the evening before and, predictably, felt both exhausted and completely removed from the people I was walking with. Battling internally with a throbbing headache and desperately trying to push my body through the relatively short climb was agonising, even more so because at this time, and possibly the only time throughout the entire 800 km, I felt completely alone, even though I was walking with 7 people who I'd quickly formed close bonds with.

Thankfully on arrival into Burgos (a horrible road-side walk!) I quickly found a pharmacist to buy the Naproxen tablets I'd have to get via a prescription in the UK. These tablets have since formed an essential part of my first-aid kit. As strong anti-inflammatory tablets they worked wonders for the knee and ankle swellings which are common-place, but need to be taken sparingly and carefully!

 

[bismith]

My most challenging section...the bus ride away from Santiago after I have finished.

That's so true also for me was the 10pm - 6am constant snoring. Everything else was pure joy.

 

[AnnieY]

Villarente but new bridge installed 2013. In the past we pilgrims walked on a narrow medieval bridge at Villarente in frightening competition with on-coming contemporary lorry traffic. The traffic usually won. In 2013 a dedicated pedestrian-only bridge was added. What a relief it was late last autumn to gently stroll along this elegant wooden way without fearing being hit or run over!

I thought I had replied but thank you - very reassuring - and thank you for all your threads I read

 

[christian527]

The most difficult part for me was the meseta let's say I had a lot of demons back then

 

[Deleted member 3000]

"a lot of demons"

For Demons:

Question: How Can I Protect Myself from Fallen Angels (Demons)?
Fallen angels (also known as in popular culture as demons) aren’t just fictional characters in novels, horror movies, and video games, say believers. Fallen angels are real spiritual beings who have evil motives when they interact with human beings, even though they may seem benevolent in order to influence people, say Jews and Christians.

Fallen angels can hurt you in a variety of ways, from lying to you and tempting you to sin, to causing mental anguish like depression and anxiety or physical illnesses or injuries in your life, according to the Torah and the Bible. Fortunately, those religious scriptures also suggest several ways that you can protect yourself from falling prey to the evil that fallen angels can bring into your life.

Answer:
Realize That You’re in a Spiritual Battle
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from about.com


Or the meseta!



If anyone is tightly wound, I am joking...

 

[Felipe]

The most difficult to me was crossing the Montes de Oca, after Villafranca. It was raining buckets, and near the top, I swear I saw an almost solid wave of water coming horizontally towards me; it was frightening. I was really relieved when I arrived to San Juan de Ortega; I believe I had a glimpse of the feeling pilgrims of yore had when they saw in the distance the towers of a church. But, believe or not, I remember this stage very fondly...
On the contrary, from Mansilla to Villarente it was sunny, flat, easy, but it seemed never to end. I was trudging the way, head down, just because I felt I had to do it.
In the end, pleasant, boring, easy or disappointing stages...all of them make the wonderful experience of doing the Camino.

 

[kelvasilidou]

The most challenging day to me was the Napoleon route from SJPdP to Roncesvalles. It took almost 8 hours and I was exhausted.

The most dangerous part of the walk is crossing the bridge on the outskirts of Leon.

The climb out of Castrojeriz is steep but a short well maintained road. This is best done in the morning. The sunrise view from here is spectacular.

Both times I have slogged through rain and mud to Hontanas. A difficult walk in wet conditions.

I like stopping in La Faba, so I detour of the road on the walk to O'cebreriro. This is a steep winding rocky path to a beautiful small Albergue maintained by Germans.

Descent into Molineseca is steep but you just have to be careful. Could be more challenging if raining.

I also dislike the slog into Burgos. Tried two different routes.

Ultreya,
Joe[/QU

 

[kelvasilidou]

The most dangerous part of the walk is crossing the bridge on the outskirts of Leon. ?????? does anyone have a photo?how bad is it?

 

[Dutch]

I had the same thought. Bridge? Leon? But i think they were talking about an old bridge that nobody uses anymore or that is gone.

There is a new footbridge now which is completely safe

 

[kelvasilidou]

ok...then!!!! if i keep reading the challenings parts ...i'll start to have second thoughts! i'm not a climber and i dont like hights!!! thanx for the reply!

 

[nc6000]

I walked the Route Napoleon earlier today as I've just started my second Camino. That was hard work. I'm exhausted! I went via Valcarlos last time.

 

[mspath]

I had the same thought. Bridge? Leon? But i think they were talking about an old bridge that nobody uses anymore or that is gone.

There is a new footbridge now which is completely safe

Here's a photo of the new safe pedestrian only bridge at Villarente with the old dangerous bridge in the background .

 

[Christopher Perry]

but the old bridge is... old... and medival.... mayhap they should have built a new auto bridge and leave the medival one to those doing the medival thing... pilgrimaging. (is that a word?)

 

[APilgrim3393]

I think that decline into Molinaseca is difficult for most folks. In September, it was so windy it literally would knock you off your feet coming down into Acebo.

Having said that, has anyone here ever stayed in Acebo? Seems like a cool little village.

Yes I spent the christams and new years about 2 weeks in total in el acebo. It is a favorite of mine. I remember thinking the decent into Molinaseca was really tough during my first camino but I did it daily for most of a december, up and down. It is completely different isolated but after a long stretch with tired legs and not being familiar with the terrain, I believe that was the hardest day. I also felt the descent into triacalista from cebriero was a tough day. I prefer uphill any day.
Coming into villafrance 2021 1 de enero

 

[Kanga]

@APilgrim3393 I think you are responding to a post from 2014! Which just goes to show that some things never change.

 

[David Tallan]

@APilgrim3393 I think you are responding to a post from 2014! Which just goes to show that some things never change.

That's what we get for having a Forum Tip's post that teaches people to use the search function.

Personally, with my knee issues on my 2016 Camino, I have distinct memories of referring to the walk down into Molinaseca as a "hell-walk" and my son and I rented bikes for the O Cebreiro - Triacastela stage, our one day of experience as "bicigrinos".

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Interesting, cuz I loved the walk up to El Acebo and also loved the beautiful walk with the blue flagstone natural path down to Molinaseca the next morning, but then I do not have any knee issues...so far.
1) Up to Acebo...
2) Down to Molinaseca

 

[Deleted member 61803]

One reason why I need to do the CF again is because this is a section I accidentally missed, I stayed at a private place that told me the best way back to the track, which I followed, but clearly not to the letter,. Because by the time I realised, due to my day dreaming, that I may have missed the turn to the right off the road and onto the track, I was already well over a mile downhill on the twisty turny main road and decided to just continue on the road to Molinaseca. There were quite a few times I day dreamed my way past places I had earmarked to see. So the best thing to do is have another bash at it when it is truly safe to do so.

 

[Al the optimist]

I would be more like tyrrek in that I like the downhill sections and I really enjoyed the decent into Cee, it was a warm sunny day and the views were spectacular, loved it, also the decent into Molinaseca, loved that.

I like going down to Molinasecca as well (although cautiously to start with). I once in bad weather did part of the early bit on the road. Reaching Acebo gives a sense of achievement doesn't it? I have always enjoying that first café! Last time I stayed in Acebo at the albergue attached to the Hotel at the end of the village and really enjoyed it. Made me wish I had packed swimming trunks

 

[wayfarer]

We never made it past the cafe at the old bridge, met some friends there and stayed around the corner.
Great to see back Al.

 

[Anhalter]

I did not find any portion of the camino frances especially challenging. There are some parts that are more exhausting for sure, but they are usually rather short.
My hardest days been both on less challenging parts.
a) Villafranca M.d.Oca to Burgos. No breakfeast in town and then 10k thru rather uninteresting woods to S.J.d.Ortega with its "not so great" bar
b) St.Nicolas d.R.d.Camino to Reliegos following the Via Trajana in 30°C+ weather. Only day i came close to getting a blister but was glad to have chosen to carry the extra water.

In hindsight, both days were not the fault of the camino but more the fault of myself since i pushed my limits a bit.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Great to see back Al.

I was thinking the same thing!
Al, you were one of the key contributors on the forum that I appreciated when I first started lurking in 2014.

 

[Al the optimist]

I was thinking the same thing!
Al, you were one of the key contributors on the forum that I appreciated when I first started lurking in 2014.

Thank you. Most kind.

We never made it past the cafe at the old bridge, met some friends there and stayed around the corner.
Great to see back Al.

Does ANYONE make it past that cafe?

 

[Marbe2]

I like going down to Molinasecca as well (although cautiously to start with). I once in bad weather did part of the early bit on the road. Reaching Acebo gives a sense of achievement doesn't it? I have always enjoying that first café! Last time I stayed in Acebo at the albergue attached to the Hotel at the end of the village and really enjoyed it. Made me wish I had packed swimming trunks

I frequently take a rest day there! We stay in a private room, beautiful large outdoor patio and lovely vistasI Yes there is an outdoor pool but we have never have been there when it was open-maybe this September, if we all get vaccinated by then? Food is descent. Love the place.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I frequently take a rest day there! We stay in a private room, beautiful large outdoor patio and lovely vistasI Yes there is an outdoor pool but we have never have been there when it was open-maybe this September, if we all get vaccinated by then? Food is descent. Love the place.

I have stayed at that lovely hotel twice in the albergue section...wonderful, and the bathrooms/shower areas were quite posh, considering. The pilgrim meal they served was lovely, too.

 

[APilgrim3393]

Interesting, cuz I loved the walk up to El Acebo and also loved the beautiful walk with the blue flagstone natural path down to Molinaseca the next morning, but then I do not have any knee issues...so far.
1) Up to Acebo...
2) Down to Molinaseca
View attachment 90800View attachment 90802

so familiar, I did it about everyday fir two to three weeks in dec of 2018. a great Christmas thanks to eppy and the people of el acebo to ponferrada gratitude.

 

[VNwalking]

Does ANYONE make it past that cafe

Me, once. I was on a mission to meet up with someone in Ponferrada, and I knew if I stopped it would be hard to start again. But that olace by the bridge sure is a nice place to stay; I did that too, once.

 

[Robo]

Bit of an old thread, but an interesting topic

I think a lot depends on.......

1. The Weather.
2. Your state of health / fitness.
3. How far you walked that particular day (leg strength and energy remaining)
4. Your footwear perhaps?
5. Use of poles maybe?

St Jean to Orisson.
First time I was puffing and blowing all the way over the last 2 kms.
2nd time it was easy.

Down to Zubiri
1st time after hearing all the horror stories I took the road route. And almost got wiped out by cars a couple of times!
2nd time we went straight down. No problems at all. It was easy. (But it was dry) But we started from Biskerreta that day so maybe our legs were fresher?

* Down from Alto del Perdon *
Once in the dry once in the wet.
No problem either time. Just need to go slow.

Down through El Acebo to Molinaseca.
1st time Very Hard, even in the dry. Hardest section for me!
2nd time we broke the journey in El Acebo, and it was no problem.

Up to O Cebreiro
Tiring but not hard.

 

[JazsWay]

I think that decline into Molinaseca is difficult for most folks. In September, it was so windy it literally would knock you off your feet coming down into Acebo.

Having said that, has anyone here ever stayed in Acebo? Seems like a cool little village.

I stayed in el acebo one month over Christmas and everything was closed but this is my favorite village on the Camino. The walk from there to Ponferrada was part of my weekly ritual and from el acebo to molinaseca was almost a daily thing. The decent down is harder than coming back. And in December, with no cars, the road was even easier as it winds around and the sights are beautiful. If you stay in el acebo for any amount of time, you will find yourself looking from above the clouds looking down below them to ponferrada area. The locals in el acebo were the greatest. I stop here every time molenaseca is also a favorite of mine. Buen Camino Jhon JazsWay

 

[DoughnutANZ]

I think a lot depends on.......

1. Your state of health / fitness.
2. How far you walked that particular day (leg strength and energy remaining)

3. Your confidence

St Jean to Orisson.

A walk up a hill. If you are having difficulties, walk slower.

Down to Zubiri

I walked down in heavy rain, starting from Roncesvalles. I have never understood why some people have difficulties with this stretch.

* Down from Alto del Perdon *

I took my time and watched my footing, no problemo.

Down through El Acebo to Molinaseca.
1st time

I stayed in El Acebo and never noticed any problems.

2nd time

I walked from Molinaseca and by the time I got to the tricky bits towards the bottom I was feeling tired and so this time around I walked very purposely through the tricky bits but had no real problems except wanting it to finish.

Up to O Cebreiro

Another walk up a hill.

 

[habanerocat]

I think this is after Roncesvalles.

 

[habanerocat]

And this is the Old Roman Road after Cirauqui.

 

[habanerocat]

And this of course after Barbadelo......

 

[JabbaPapa]

The hardest section I've found is uphill from Molinaseca to El Acebo. There are some tricky bits that are not too bad going downhill with a stick, but uphill in the other direction are blue murder !!

 

[Anhalter]

Oh, El Acebo to Molinaseca... fun memories.

First time in the rain. Actually liked it. Well, maybe not "liked" but also not "hated" it. But i started in Foncebadon this day.

Second time, bone dry. Had some kind of allergic reaction to something (pollen?) and spent most of that stretch with burning/watering eyes. Not fun if you don't see where to place your foot. It likely did not help that my day started 28km before El Acebo in St.Catalina...

And i have more cases like this. I guess for me it is the combination of a section that is "harder than average" with myself being "weaker than average" (for example from fatigue or allergies).

 

[David Tallan]

Oh, El Acebo to Molinaseca... fun memories.

First time in the rain. Actually liked it. Well, maybe not "liked" but also not "hated" it. But i started in Foncebadon this day.

Second time, bone dry. Had some kind of allergic reaction to something (pollen?) and spent most of that stretch with burning/watering eyes. Not fun if you don't see where to place your foot. It likely did not help that my day started 28km before El Acebo in St.Catalina...

And i have more cases like this. I guess for me it is the combination of a section that is "harder than average" with myself being "weaker than average" (for example from fatigue or allergies).

I'm not sure if you were responding to JabbaPapa's post that immediately preceded yours. If you were, you might have missed that he was not talking about El Acebo to Molinaseca but rather the reverse, uphill on the way back.

Of course, if you had noticed that and were just responding in general to the overall topic, in the immortal words of Emily Litella "Never mind."

 

[Peregrinopaul]

The hardest section I've found is uphill from Molinaseca to El Acebo. There are some tricky bits that are not too bad going downhill with a stick, but uphill in the other direction are blue murder !!

I’ve done it in reverse too, on my bike by road. I thought it would never end.

 

[Casserole]

I vividly remember the pain in my hips, knees and ankles from walking into Burgos on my first camino. That was a killer!! It even hurt to lay down.

There were other hard parts, but that is the pain that has stuck with me nearly 15 years later. Well, that and the food poisoning...