Must Stay Overnight Villages/Towns

[Bob Howard]

Looking at my 3rd CF this year. In 2016 and last year, I often stayed in the same villages/towns/cities, mostly because I enjoyed them the first time. For me, at least until I hear other opinions, there are certain overnight stops I feel like I can't miss.

At the larger city level, Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos and Leon seem like must-stays to me.

The next level of can't miss overnights for me are Estella, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Astorga, Foncebaddon, Villafranca del Bierzo, Ponferrada, and Portomarin.

Here's an example of the kind dilemma I'm having. In my two previous CF's, I have stayed in Foncebaddon both times--a days walk from Astorga and a days walk to Ponferrada. The atmosphere in Foncebaddon seems mystical to me, and I am energized just being there. But, Rabanal and Molinaseca (before and after Foncebaddon) are so charming I am sorely tempted. I suppose I could just walk shorter segments and thereby more overnights, but I tend to want to complete the walk in 30-33 days.

After Villafranca del Biezo, I'm not wedded to or particularly charmed by any town from Sarria onward, although last year I took a friend's recommendation and stayed at the Pazo Sedor which is slightly off the Camino just past Casteneda. Pazo Sedor is located off by itself, but what a wonderful splurge.

So, which towns/hamlets would you say are your favorites--favorite enough that you would tend to stay in the town/village time and time again.

 

[Former member 59618]

I didn’t stay in Foncebaddon, only stopping for a coffee and sit by the fire. It was cool and foggy and come to think of it, I just want to hang out by the fire all day. I love how you describe it as mystical. Very apt description. I did stay in Rabanal but didn’t explore like I should have. Molinaseca was so charming but alas, I stayed in Ponferrada. Next time I’ll stay in Molinaseca.

I do want to stopover in Trabadelo at casa susi. That whole valley before O Cebreiro is Claire’s my heart. There’s a little town called Ambasmestas (sp) right after Trabadelo that was lovely.

 

[Bob Howard]

I didn’t stay in Foncebaddon, only stopping for a coffee and sit by the fire. It was cool and foggy and come to think of it, I just want to hang out by the fire all day. I love how you describe it as mystical. Very apt description. I did stay in Rabanal but didn’t explore like I should have. Molinaseca was so charming but alas, I stayed in Ponferrada. Next time I’ll stay in Molinaseca.

I do want to stopover in Trabadelo at casa susi. That whole valley before O Cebreiro is Claire’s my heart. There’s a little town called Ambasmestas (sp) right after Trabadelo that was lovely.

Yes, between Villafranca del Bierzo and O Cebreiro is fertile ground for charming hamlets--Trabedelo, Las Herrerias, Ambasmestas and La Faba nearer the top. I agree that whole valley is charming. O Cebreiro is loaded with charm, albeit with a touristy feel. But the best thing about O Cebriero was the the church and the Pilgrim's Mass. Not being even remotely religious, I was nevertheless emotionally overwhelmed last year at the Pilgrim's Mass there. It was probably the most intense moment for me on that Camino. So, yes that is a magic stage, I think, between Villafranca del Bierzo and O Cebreiro.

 

[Robo]

Looking at my 3rd CF this year. In 2016 and last year, I often stayed in the same villages/towns/cities, mostly because I enjoyed them the first time. For me, at least until I hear other opinions, there are certain overnight stops I feel like I can't miss.

At the larger city level, Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos and Leon seem like must-stays to me.

The next level of can't miss overnights for me are Estella, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Astorga, Foncebaddon, Villafranca del Bierzo, Ponferrada, and Portomarin.

Here's an example of the kind dilemma I'm having. In my two previous CF's, I have stayed in Foncebaddon both times--a days walk from Astorga and a days walk to Ponferrada. The atmosphere in Foncebaddon seems mystical to me, and I am energized just being there. But, Rabanal and Molinaseca (before and after Foncebaddon) are so charming I am sorely tempted. I suppose I could just walk shorter segments and thereby more overnights, but I tend to want to complete the walk in 30-33 days.

After Villafranca del Biezo, I'm not wedded to or particularly charmed by any town from Sarria onward, although last year I took a friend's recommendation and stayed at the Pazo Sedor which is slightly off the Camino just past Casteneda. Pazo Sedor is located off by itself, but what a wonderful splurge.

So, which towns/hamlets would you say are your favorites--favorite enough that you would tend to stay in the town/village time and time again.

Depends what you are looking for?

Estella, VillaFranca del Beirzo and Ponferrada I have tried.
Personally I wouldn't stay at those again.
Foncebadon I love because it gives me a chance to be at the Cross early.

I'm not sure I would go out of my way to stay in the same places again really.
There are too many great places to experience. So I try to avoid places I have been before.

What makes a place great? So many factors.
The place itself, the beauty, the history.
The accommodation I used.
The people I met.
The meals I had.
It's proximity to the next place I wanted to reach........

So it's always a gamble recommending places.

But here goes:
Los Arcos. Lovely town, church, town square, places to eat.
Vianna. Same.
Logrono. Tapas!
Navarrette. Lovely village, church, town square, places to eat.
Villafranca Montes de Orca. The big old Hotel above the church. Like a Parador almost.
Hornillos. Just to stay at Casa Rural del Abuelo, run my Maria.
Carrion. Just to stay at San Zoilo
O'Cebriero. What's not to love! Buildings, views.....
For the last 100kms the only stand out for me is Portomarin.......just to have lunch at O Mirador

 

[trecile]

Samos would definitely be on my list. And Molinaseca is very nice too.

Villafranca Montes de Orca. The big old Hotel above the church. Like a Parador almost.

Staying at that hotel was the first splurge night of my first Camino.

 

[scruffy1]

Just before Fromista - a town with nothing much to write home about beyond the church/museum though sailors might enjoy visiting Saint Elmo in his boat just up the street - just before Fromista in Boadilla is the En el Camino albergue family run and a real treat!

 

[JillGat]

Astorga is my favorite real city on the Frances, and both times I stayed in the big albergue just at the top of the hill as you enter town. Wonderful plaza in Astorga to hang out and watch local life. I also love Castrojerez (albergue Ultreia, the wine cellar tour), Boadilla (En El Camino albergue.. love that place) and Trabadelo. I often have memory flashes of Trabadelo and I don't know why. VillaFranca del Beirzo was a great town to explore. I loved Najera, too. I didn't like Ponferrada. I think all the spray painted graffiti depressed me, partly. My goal, the second time on the Frances, was to vary the places I stayed, but there were towns I loved too much to just pass through.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I love most of your list of favorites. One of my favs and have stayed there twice is in El Acebo. A charming little village before Ponferrada, surrounded by beautiful mountains. That area is a personal favorite stretch to walk, both coming into and leaving...just beautiful!

 

[Anamiri]

Places on my list
Rabanal - for a wee village there is so much
Astorga
Molinseca
Samos-the view from above was breathtaking, its quite magnificent
Viana - it a lovely little town
Estella
Puenta la Reina - I havent had the chance to explore
Ambasmestas - stay at la Pescador (flat , no stairs, you own lovely little room overlooking their lake, and delicious meals, really nice people)