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My Baztan Route, Sept. 2012

dd_soleil

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Via de la Plata (2009); Via de la Plata (2012)
Wonderful route! I recommend it if you're looking for a more solitary journey.

Weather: The weather in September was pretty good! It was not too hot, there was a fair amount of sun, but it was quite drizzly at times, especially in Bayonne.

Pilgrims: There was literally NOBODY in the albergues with me some nights, sometimes there was one other person. There were a few people who were walking together in the days preceding me. Getting to the Camino Frances was quite a shock after such a quiet walk!

Terrain/Walking: Mostly easy walking, though there are some climbs on the 2nd or 3rd day that may feel steep if you're out of shape! The last few stages have a lot of highway noise, even though you are quite a ways away from the highway -- the sound kind of echoes through the valley (which, aside from that, is VERY beautiful.) I recommend earplugs or music if you are sensitive to that kind of noise. (I'm extra sensitive -- it might not bother you at all!)

Waymarking I got lost once, because there are some symbols for other trails there that are in yellow, that look kind of like these (except in yellow): http://www.fatpacking.com/images/GR/TrailMarker.jpg These are NOT camino markers! Make sure you look for JUST the "Voie Baztan" marks, so you don't get lost, like me!

Here are my stages:

DAY DATE FROM TO MILES (Km, approx)
1 Sept 19 Bayonne Ustarix 9.40 M (15.0 Km)
2 Sept 20 Ustarix Aïnhoa 10.95 M (17.6 Km)
3 Sept 21 Aïnhoa Urdax 3.92 M (6.3 Km)
4 Sept 22 Urdax Ariskun 8.9 M (14.3 Km)
5 Sept 23 Arisun Berroeta 8.5 M (13.67 Km)
6 Sept 24 Berroeta Olague 12.0 M (19.3 Km)
7 Sept 25 Olague Arres 13.13 M (21.4 Km)
8 Sept 26 Arres Eunate 15.82 M (25.45 Km)
9 Sept 27 Eunate Estella 17.00 M (27.3 Km)

Stages: If you're new to the Camino, "shorter" stages are your friends! No need to walk fast or far, enjoy what you can, it will be over before you know it. (About my stages, please note that one of these stages is a little longer than it should be, because I got lost! I'm not sure which one, though. Sorry about that!)

Joining the Frances: Pamplona is somewhere between Arres and Estella -- I chose to stay in Arres, and just walked through Pamplona, because I prefer to stay in smaller places. The albergue there has a lovely yard and was small enough to get to know some people, so I recommend it if Pamplona seems overwhelming. I also recommend the detour to Eunate, which has a communal meal, which is a lovely experience to try to get into the Frances vibe!

[Continuing on the Frances:[/b] I continued on to Santiago on the Camino Frances, the rest of my stages are here: http://oncearoundtheroom.com/the-route-2012/

Hope this is helpful!
 
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Hi, dd,

Sounds like a wonderful route. I don't know if you used the online guide I translated from Spanish (it's attached to a post in this thread: camino-baztan/topic12765.html), but if you have any suggestions or recommended changes, please let me know via PM and I can update the guide.

I know that it's still a very solitary route, but everyone who walks it just raves about the beauty, so maybe it's another one of those "up-and-coming" caminos.

Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. The only modification I'd offer to what you said is that it appears that the albergue at Eunate is now closed. el-camino-frances/topic16139.html
 
If I am leaving from Pamplona to go north to hit the camino del Norte, would it be terribly complicated to do this route backwards? That means mostly seeing the trail markers so I don't have to keep a map always handy! Thanks for your input!
 
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Any reverse walk is a problem. I walked the reverse from Fisterra and stood at an intersection for nearly a half-hour waiting for forward direction pilgrims to come through and reveal which of three possible roads was the correct one! On a less traveled route, you won't have that option. A topographic map or GPS will be very useful.
 
Hi there dd,

Thanks for your post and outline of stages- Yes, yes, I plan to walk Baztan this June. I was wondering whether you may be able to make some comments regarding where you stayed?
Are the prices similar to Frances (ie communal refugio-style).
Fountains in abundance? (I prefer filling up on route rather than carrying water)

Gracias!
 
Marji,

About water, I cannot help you - I walked in cold April and did not need more than one liter.

About accomodation:
Except one night (Arizkun - small pension, 20€), I only slept in pilgrims' albergues, so quite similar to the Camino Frances, altough France is anyway more expensive than Spain! You should not have problems with finding accomodation - except if a larger group should walk at the same time.
Some hospitaleras (I remember only women) would have preferred a call in advance - even in Spain, to make sure they would be there to welcome you.

About food: I never had not enough, but especially in one small village (Berroeta), no possibility to buy food. And in Olague, only a very tiny shop.

Enjoy
 
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I would like to this Camino in early May and would appreciate a list of albergues if possible..many thanks, :arrow:
n.
 
I have just been looking at this route today and found this:

http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los ... /baztanes/

Here are distances between accommodations
from to km
Bayonne Ustaritz 14.3
Ustaritz Espelette 10.1
Espelette Ainhoa 7.7
Ainhoa Urdax 5.4
Urdax Amaiur 9.7
Amaiur Elizondo 9.1
Elizondo Lekaroz 1.7
Lekaroz Berroeta 8
Berroeta Olague 20.4
Olague Trinidad 20.4
Trinidad Pamplona 4.6
 
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