My Camino Primitivo - Sep-Oct 2014

[isabelle304]

Now that I've started walking, am starting a new thread to keep a record of my trip. Am not putting it in the Live From forum on purpose - it will just get lost over there.

 

[isabelle304]

Day 1.

Good weather for walking. Clear blue skies and sunshine; not much of a breeze but heat never got unbearable.

Unfortunately my plantar fasciitis being very problematic. Left heel totally stiff, each step out of Oviedo made me wince a little. After a couple of hours, my tendon had loosened a little and I was able to walk normally, except downhill and uphill (!). Got to Escamplero around 1pm and felt it wiser to stop there rather than risking carrying on till Grado. There were already 4 pilgrims there when I arrived. Now is nearly bedtime and the Albergue is full, with the last pilgrim arriving around 7.30pm. (nb. Actually another pilgrim has just arrived - not sure where we gonna put him).

Finding the way out of Oviedo was simple enough. CSJ guide says to ignore the brass shells. However the nice Camino plaque near the cathedral says you should follow the brass shells! So I did...

After the Puente de Gallegos, I followed the CSJ guide advice and did not bother taking the path when it veers off the road on the right but just carried on along the road as there were not many cars at the time.

The price given for the Albergue in the CSJ guide is wrong - it's in fact 4 euros. There is a sign outside the Albergue saying it opens at 6pm- it should be ignored.

 

[Mary Kate]

Day 1.

Good weather for walking. Clear blue skies and sunshine; not much of a breeze but heat never got unbearable.

Unfortunately my plantar fasciitis being very problematic. Left heel totally stiff, each step out of Oviedo made me wince a little. After a couple of hours, my tendon had loosened a little and I was able to walk normally, except downhill and uphill (!). Got to Escamplero around 1pm and felt it wiser to stop there rather than risking carrying on till Grado. There were already 4 pilgrims there when I arrived. Now is nearly bedtime and the Albergue is full, with the last pilgrim arriving around 7.30pm. (nb. Actually another pilgrim has just arrived - not sure where we gonna put him).

Finding the way out of Oviedo was simple enough. CSJ guide says to ignore the brass shells. However the nice Camino plaque near the cathedral says you should follow the brass shells! So I did...

After the Puente de Gallegos, I followed the CSJ guide advice and did not bother taking the path when it veers off the road on the right but just carried on along the road as there were not many cars at the time.

The price given for the Albergue in the CSJ guide is wrong - it's in fact 4 euros. There is a sign outside the Albergue saying it opens at 6pm- it should be ignored.

Hi,
Thanks for this. I'm in Bilbao at the moment and will have to decide later whether to keep to the coast or choose the Primitivo. Sorry your PF is giving trouble. You're very brave and persistent.
Mary

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Isabelle! Your fan club is so glad you have posted! Careful with that plantar fasciitis, pesky problem that it is. Wishing you the best, Laurie

 

[Tia Valeria]

Buen Camino Isabelle. If you keep a note of any changes (like in your post) and then e-mail them to CSJ, after your Camino, they will use them to update the guide and usually post updates, between printed ones, on-line.

 

[isabelle304]

Day 2: Escamplero to San Juan de Villapanada

Much, much better day for me. Heel still feeling quite stiff first thing in the morning but two lovely Canadian ladies in their mid-sixties walked slowly alongside me (to keep me company) for the first couple of hours. Took a couple of pain killers and by Penaflor, I was walking normally for the first time in weeks!

Visibility quite bad until midday (lots of mist) - but from Grado, blue skies and sunshine again and a totally glorious afternoon.

Camino signs and arrows seem to stop abruptly when you get to Grado (just after crossing the railway line by the train station) so I just made my way up to the main road, turned to the left and immediately heard some local ladies shouting "Senora! Senora! Arriba! Arriba!" and helpfully pointing me in the right direction (ie to the right!)

Bought food in a smallish shop towards the beginning of town - in fact I should have waited, there are a couple of supermarkets as you leave town: a Dia, and a large Arbol. The Arbol is even open on Sundays (until 2 or 3 - can't remember which).

The walk out of Grado is quite steep at one point - I was very tempted to ditch the food I had just bought!

Made it to San Juan around 2.30pm, still feeling good and perky, to be met by a lovely hospitalero (Domingo) who even helped me to take my rucksack off. Albergue is one of those that is truly well looked after - it's a pleasure to stay here, quite in contrast with last night!

Albergue not full tonight (12 people for 20 beds).

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Isabelle, Hooray!! So happy that your feet are cooperating and that you were able to enjoy the views on the way up to San Juan. I´ll bet you will be spending some wonderful time sitting outside at that picnic table just contemplating the views. Enjoy enjoy, way to go girl!!! Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

Buen Camino Isabelle. If you keep a note of any changes (like in your post) and then e-mail them to CSJ, after your Camino, they will use them to update the guide and usually post updates, between printed ones, on-line.

Yes I'll definitely do that. The guide is quite recent though (2013).

 

[Theatregal]

Day 2: Escamplero to San Juan de Villapanada

Much, much better day for me. Heel still feeling quite stiff first thing in the morning but two lovely Canadian ladies in their mid-sixties walked slowly alongside me (to keep me company) for the first couple of hours. Took a couple of pain killers and by Penaflor, I was walking normally for the first time in weeks!

Visibility quite bad until midday (lots of mist) - but from Grado, blue skies and sunshine again and a totally glorious afternoon.

Camino signs and arrows seem to stop abruptly when you get to Grado (just after crossing the railway line by the train station) so I just made my way up to the main road, turned to the left and immediately heard some local ladies shouting "Senora! Senora! Arriba! Arriba!" and helpfully pointing me in the right direction (ie to the right!)

Bought food in a smallish shop towards the beginning of town - in fact I should have waited, there are a couple of supermarkets as you leave town: a Dia, and a large Arbol. The Arbol is even open on Sundays (until 2 or 3 - can't remember which).

The walk out of Grado is quite steep at one point - I was very tempted to ditch the food I had just bought!

Made it to San Juan around 2.30pm, still feeling good and perky, to be met by a lovely hospitalero (Domingo) who even helped me to take my rucksack off. Albergue is one of those that is truly well looked after - it's a pleasure to stay here, quite in contrast with last night!

Albergue not full tonight (12 people for 20 beds).

Following your journey with interest Isabelle. Domingo's place in San Juan was one of my favourite places to stay. Wonderful place and the early morning view from the yard as the sun rose is still so strong in my memory. Wishing you all the best and Buen Camino!

 

[angulero]

Bought food in a smallish shop towards the beginning of town - in fact I should have waited, there are a couple of supermarkets as you leave town: a Dia, and a large Arbol. The Arbol is even open on Sundays (until 2 or 3 - can't remember which).

En Grado hay un mercado bastante importante todos los domingos por lo que el comercio local abre. El día de descanso en Grado es el lunes. Ese día casi todo el comercio está cerrado.

Grado is a very important market every Sunday at the local trade opens. The rest day is Monday Grado. That day almost all trade is closed.

 

[isabelle304]

Hi,
Thanks for this. I'm in Bilbao at the moment and will have to decide later whether to keep to the coast or choose the Primitivo. Sorry your PF is giving trouble. You're very brave and persistent.
Mary

Don't know about bravery and persistence - some people might just call it stupid and irresponsible to walk a 300km Camino when I should be back home getting physiotherapy!

Buen Camino! Am hoping to give the Norte a go next year...

 

[angulero]

Por cierto, hay bastante probabilidad de que llueva este domingo.

By the way, there is enough probability of rain on Sunday.

 

[isabelle304]

Por cierto, hay bastante probabilidad de que llueva este domingo.

By the way, there is enough probability of rain on Sunday.

What a shame! It's my birthday that day and nobody likes it to rain on their birthday!

 

[angulero]

Parece que serán tormentas locales, y sobre todo por la tarde. Con un poco de suerte, las esquivas...

It seems to be local storms, especially in the afternoon. With a little luck, maybe you dodge ...

 

[jnoval]

By the way Isabelle, it looks like you stayed at Albergue Bodenaya? Alex posts pics of the peregrinos everyday on Facebook and in one of them there is a peregrina that looks like you. Was it a good experience? I'm hoping that next summer when we go in June 2015 he is still open but he posted that he'll be selling and moving on. I hear it is a great place and that he is a great hospitalero. Buen camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

What a shame! It's my birthday that day and nobody likes it to rain on their birthday!

I would take a rainy birthday on the Camino any day over a sunny day back in the daily grind. Hope the sun shone on you, Isabelle, but judging from Alejandro's picture of you, you are having a great time!

Happy Birthday peregrina! Looks like you are doing just fine, that is terrific. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

Day 3 - Sat 27 Sep - San Juan de Villapanada to Bodenaya

Blue skies and sunshine again! This was my longest day on this Camino so far and it really felt like it! I've now got a cold and felt dehydrated all day no matter how much I drank.

Did not see many pilgrims over the course of the day (they were all ahead of me) but I did come across two who had stayed in Cabrunana - they reported being very pleased with the Albergue there. It was above a bar restaurant where they ate a nice pilgrim menu. Also, while we were 12 in San Juan, there were only the two of them in Cabrunana!

I also spoke to a couple of pilgrims who had stayed overnight in the Albergue at the monastery in Cornellana. Equally very impressed. They reported the Albergue there is very clean, very spacious (no cramped bunk beds) and one even seemed to think there was some sort of under-floor heating going on! In any case, the floor was so warm underfoot that they were able to remain barefoot. Only 4 pilgrims in that Albergue.

Walk to Bodenaya uneventful. Spotted another error in the CSJ guide (2013) between monastery and Llamas but the Camino signs at that spot are very clear so it's hard to go the wrong way.

By the time I got to Bodenaya around 5, all the top bunks were gone. Problem for me as when I am unwell I need to get up frequently during the night.

Dinner at 8. Lights out at 10.
Albergue is about half full (14 people).

(nb. Drafted this last night in bed but forgot to send it!)

 

[isabelle304]

By the way Isabelle, it looks like you stayed at Albergue Bodenaya? Alex posts pics of the peregrinos everyday on Facebook and in one of them there is a peregrina that looks like you. Was it a good experience? I'm hoping that next summer when we go in June 2015 he is still open but he posted that he'll be selling and moving on. I hear it is a great place and that he is a great hospitalero. Buen camino.

That was me! Unfortunately I was not too well last night and hardly slept, and probably kept every one else awake also, what with all the loud sneezing and the snivelling and the tossing and turning and the many trips to the loo to blow my nose and... well, you get the idea! Bodenaya is a "cosy" type of Albergue and each sound seems to resonate a hundred fold. Still, I was glad to have been able to experience in person an Albergue that so many people are so fond of.

Hope you do get to meet Alex - I really liked him.

 

[peregrina2000]

Where are you now, Isabelle? Another friend of mine is in Bodenaya tonight (Sunday), Frank from North Carolina. He is walking with a young German woman, and I told him to keep an eye out for you. Hope you are feeling much better. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

Day 4 - Sunday 28 Sep - Bodenaya to Tineo

Having hardly slept last night, I decided to make today a short day AND not stay in an Albergue tonight. (I actually struggled walking the short distance to Tineo, puffing and out of breath the whole time.)

It had started to rain during the night, by the time I left Bodenaya at 8am, the rain was so light that I was able to take off my waterproof jacket almost immediately.

My CSJ guide does not mention that just as you enter either La Pereda - or possibly El Pedregal, not sure which - there is at the entrance of the hamlet an horreo of which the ground level has been refurbished to provide a stop for pilgrims: free access/open door to a room with tables/chairs, a vending machine and coffee machine. You can also stamp your credencial there. Also, outside, a very clean portaloo especially for us! (I do wish I'd known thus was coming, it would have saved me making a hurried pee stop in the middle of the path just 50 metres before!).

I arrived in Tineo around 2pm, on the lookout for a suitable hotel. Wandering along the main road towards a pharmacy, a gentleman approached me and asked me if I needed somewhere to stay! He was the owner of the Pension La Posada next to that pharmacy. I highly recommend this place. Am paying 25 euros for a twin room with bathroom. Beautiful view of the hills, free WiFi. There is a breakfast room fully stocked with all the things I will need tomorrow morning. There is also a washing machine and a tumble dryer (albeit a bit expensive to use if you don't have much that needs washing).

Not sure how far I'll get tomorrow - will all depend on whether I can breathe properly or not. Also, I doubt I'll yet feel up to staying in an Albergue tomorrow - this means I might have to walk all the way to Pola de Allende, instead of possibly stopping in Campiello.

 

[isabelle304]

Where are you now, Isabelle? Another friend of mine is in Bodenaya tonight (Sunday), Frank from North Carolina. He is walking with a young German woman, and I told him to keep an eye out for you. Hope you are feeling much better. Buen camino, Laurie

I'll look out for Frank. I have no doubt he will catch up with me tomorrow!

 

[peregrina2000]

Just fyi, Isabelle. Herminia, the lady-in-charge at Campiello, also has a pension type place or casa rural. It gets mixed reviews insofar as the price/quality ratio goes, but it would keep you from having to go on to Pola de Allande if you want to stop there and aren't feeling up to an albergue. But check out the albergue first, because it is very spacious and if there aren't many people you will get plenty of personal space. Very clean albergue, spic and span bathrooms, so all in all the albergue is a great deal, IMO.

Tineo is a very pretty little town, and I hope you have good visibility tomorow because the walk out of Tineo is one of my favorites! Hope you are feeling better. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

Just fyi, Isabelle. Herminia, the lady-in-charge at Campiello, also has a pension type place or casa rural. It gets mixed reviews insofar as the price/quality ratio goes, but it would keep you from having to go on to Pola de Allande if you want to stop there and aren't feeling up to an albergue. But check out the albergue first, because it is very spacious and if there aren't many people you will get plenty of personal space. Very clean albergue, spic and span bathrooms, so all in all the albergue is a great deal, IMO.

Am there tonight. I have been shivering and throwing up since last night so am glad the Albergue does not look like it's gonna fill up. Only Frank and his German friend so far.

Am presently weighing my options. This Camino is killing me and is taking me a lot longer than I had hoped/anticipated. Am considering throwing in the towel. I'll see how I feel. Felt really weak today, ate 2 slices of toast this morning but could not keep them down

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The Camino is optional in life. When it is not fun, it is OK to stop. Perhaps knowing that you can stop anytime you want will give you the serenity to do more (or not)!!! Buen camino.

 

[wayfarer]

I hope you feel well soon Isabelle.
Buen Camino.

 

[Olivares]

To cure your plantar fasciitis follow the instructions in the video: ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vF7HkfcPrU4

 

[peregrina2000]

Am there tonight. I have been shivering and throwing up since last night so am glad the Albergue does not look like it's gonna fill up. Only Frank and his German friend so far.

Am presently weighing my options. This Camino is killing me and is taking me a lot longer than I had hoped/anticipated. Am considering throwing in the towel. I'll see how I feel. Felt really weak today, ate 2 slices of toast this morning but could not keep them down

Hi, Isabelle,
You can't seem to get a break here. I am so sorry that in addition to whatever foot issues you had to deal with , you now have to deal with the other physical ailments. Rest and take care of yourself, as others have noted, you don't have to self-flagellate, just do what is right for you and remember that the camino will be waiting if and when you decide to come back. Sending many good thoughts your way, hoping you feel better. Laurie

 

[Mike Savage]

I'm so sorry this has happened Isabelle. I pray for your quick and full recovery.

Buen Camino.

 

[jnoval]

Isabelle, sorry to hear you are not feeling well. It certainly doesn't help to be away from the comfort of home while going through illness. Hopefully you can recover quickly and reassess whether you should continue or not. If you do continue I hope the weather is mild and sunny for your camino. If you decide to return home I hope you get well asap. Buena suerte y que te mejores cuanto antes, peregrina.

 

[ebrandt]

Isabelle -- I've been off line for a bit and am just catching up with these posts. I've got you in my prayers. Hope you are feeling better and either able to continue or on your way home -- what ever is best for you at this moment!

 

[peregrina2000]

Like Liz, sending you lots of strong cyber hugs and hopes that things are going well. Laurie

 

[Kiwi-family]

Just caught up with this thread. Isabelle, don't be scared to take a rest and not make any decision until you feel better!
All the best.

 

[isabelle304]

.Thanks to all for the get-well messages. Am still in Campiello. After one night in the Albergue I decided to move upstairs to one of the private rooms. Woke up early this morning coughing incessantly so I might be stuck here another day.

I am dealing with two ailments in parallel: run of the mill cold (blocked nose, sneezing, coughing, sore throat, lack of energy etc) AND some sort of stomach bug (resulting in vomiting and diarrhoea) that has affected not only me but also other pilgrims. When I arrived in Campiello, I caught up with two who had been with me in Bodenaya 2 nights before and had been so unwell also that they had had to stay in Campiello an extra night. Apparently other pilgrims in the group had been unwell also but had decided to carry on to Berducedo or Pola.

Additionally, yesterday I spoke to a small group of pilgrims as they were passing through on their way to Borres - and again was told some were also feeling a little fragile on the stomach front.

Again, thanks for all the good wishes, they're much appreciated.

 

[Theatregal]

Gosh Isabelle. Sending you some very strong healing energy. I don't remember there being a farmacia or any kind of medical care in Campiello. Have you been able to access any kind of help in that way? It sounds like your body is being depleted in a major way and a doctor's care may be very important right now. Wishing you wellness!

 

[isabelle304]

Gosh Isabelle. Sending you some very strong healing energy. I don't remember there being a farmacia or any kind of medical care in Campiello. Have you been able to access any kind of help in that way? It sounds like your body is being depleted in a major way and a doctor's care may be very important right now. Wishing you wellness!

Having a bit of breakfast in Campiello now as I have decided to try and carry on a bit further - as you say there is no pharmacy in Campiello and I really need cough medicine, Motilium and Imodium. Hopefully I can make it to Pola today and Berducedo tomorrow.

Would be grateful for personal recommendations from any members of this forum for places to stay with private rooms in both Pola and Berducedo, not too expensive (up to 20-25 euros).

 

[Pelegrin]

In Pola de Allande: Hotel La Nueva Allandesa, 25 euros, breakfast included and Lozano (30e, I think).
In Berducedo, there are 2 places with private rooms: I know Mabel's, very good rooms, but it is (35 0r more), breakfast included. I've heard about the other one from this forum (can´t find the post) It is located above the bars (Casa Marqués, etc), and I remember (maybe I'm wrong) it would cost about 25 sharing bathroom.
Enjoy next stages.

 

[Tia Valeria]

The walk between Pola and Berducedo and then between Berducedo and Grandas de Salime is tough. If you stay in Pola and get your 'remedios' from the farmacia it might be worth while taking the ALSA to Grandas and resting that extra bit, then walking from there to complete your Camino. (Bus runs once a day and was late afternoon and I think not on Saturdays. It does stop in Pola, but doesn't go through Campiello.)
You could have a short first day back walking if there is room in the albergue at Castro, which is bookable.
Take care and hope you are soon well again so that you can carry on.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Isabelle,
If by any chance you are still in Campiello, you might just want to ask Herminia for a ride back to Tineo or ahead to Pola de Allande. You've gotten good recommendations on accommodations in both Pola and Berducedo, and I'm hoping that a day or two of rest will give you strength. It doesn't sound like you're in any shape to walk right now, but you are a stubborn peregrina! Take care of yourself. Nothing to do but let your body heal and resist that urge to walk till you're ready. Thinking of you -- Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

In Pola de Allande: Hotel La Nueva Allandesa, 25 euros, breakfast included and Lozano (30e, I think).
In Berducedo, there are 2 places with private rooms: I know Mabel's, very good rooms, but it is (35 0r more), breakfast included. I've heard about the other one from this forum (can´t find the post) It is located above the bars (Casa Marqués, etc), and I remember (maybe I'm wrong) it would cost about 25 sharing bathroom.
Enjoy next stages.

Thank you! I've just checked into LaNueva Alledansa for 21 euros inc desayuno.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you! I've just checked into LaNueva Alledansa for 21 euros inc desayuno.

If your tummy is feeling better, and if you are in the mood for some Spanish comfort food, the Allandesa is a restaurant famous for its fabada (stew concoction with great white beans, and a lot of meats and sausages thrown in for good measure). On weekends, the place really fills up with day-trippers, so you get to enjoy it without the crowds. Let us know how it goes and we will all be hoping for a return to good health so you can continue walking.

BTW, the walk up to the mountain pass, though it isn't the spectacular Hospitales route, is very nice in and of itself, and you will also get the same mountain views once you are up top, so enjoy the babbling brooks and green tunnels and pastoral scenery of farms and peace. Abrazos from Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

ok the good news is I am now in Pola (waiting for the farmacia to open) and am feeling much better than this morning. Stomach bug seems to have packed its bags ao all I am left with is the cough. I actually really enjoyed the walk from Campiello - very peaceful and relaxing. As Laurie notes, I am a bit stubborn, therefore although the thought of jumping on a bus to Grandas would have been my chosen option yesterday, today I am just curious to see if I can manage it a pie!

 

[Theatregal]

ok the good news is I am now in Pola (waiting for the farmacia to open) and am feeling much better than this morning. Stomach bug seems to have packed its bags ao all I am left with is the cough. I actually really enjoyed the walk from Campiello - very peaceful and relaxing. As Laurie notes, I am a bit stubborn, therefore although the thought of jumping on a bus to Grandas would have been my chosen option yesterday, today I am just curious to see if I can manage it a pie!

Great news! Strong woman! Onward!

 

[Pelegrin]

If you want to do Hospitales you still can. A taxi from Pola to Borres costs 14 euros.

 

[peregrina2000]

If you want to do Hospitales you still can. A taxi from Pola to Borres costs 14 euros.

Actually, Isabelle, if you take a taxi back to Borres and do the Hospitales route, you will have an easier walk than what awaits you tomorrow from Pola de Allande, so that might not be a bad decision. Since you descended 200 meters coming from Borres to Pola de Allande, and since the two alternatives join up tomorrow at the Puerto de Palo, you've got 200 more meters to ascend to get to the Puerto de Palo than if you had started in Borres to go to Hospitales. And the ascent from Pola to the Puerto will be steeper than the ascent from Borres to Hospitales, since it's over a shorter distance.

So, stubborn peregrina, wishing you well with your decision, but I'm so glad to hear that you are feeling better. Till next time, buen camino, Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

Laurie and Pelegrin - I noted your suggestion and was very tempted. However Any day over 20km is quite a lot for me at this stage so I decided to play it safe and stick to a short (albeit steeper) etapa.

Beautiful walk today, with mist until I reached the Puerto del Palo, then the mist lifted and blue skies and sunshine all the way to Berducedo.

I am staying at the Casa Marques (20 euros for single room, bathroom down the hall) as I don't yet feel ready to rejoin the albergue population (my cold is lingering).

 

[wayfarer]

Glad to hear you are getting better Isabelle, take care and enjoy the rest of your Camino.

 

[Pelegrin]

I'm glad you've got good prices for your private rooms.
Tomorrow you have another hard stage bad beautiful. I hope you'll be lucky with the mist.

 

[Mike Savage]

I'm so glad you are feeling better and moving at your own pace.

Buen Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie and Pelegrin - I noted your suggestion and was very tempted. However Any day over 20km is quite a lot for me at this stage so I decided to play it safe and stick to a short (albeit steeper) etapa.

Beautiful walk today, with mist until I reached the Puerto del Palo, then the mist lifted and blue skies and sunshine all the way to Berducedo.

I am staying at the Casa Marques (20 euros for single room, bathroom down the hall) as I don't yet feel ready to rejoin the albergue population (my cold is lingering).

So happy to hear this, Isabelle!! Rest up and take care of yourself. Looks like you've turned the corner to good health. In Grandas, I have stayed at the Hotel La Barra, they had a pretty good pilgrim price a few years ago. And it may be even better now because when I stayed there the albergue was so disgusting that many more people were interested in the hotel. But with the nice new albergue, their business has probably suffered, so maybe the price is down. The other option is the pensión, which people have said is fine, but I don´t know personally. The albergue has a terrific and totally equipped kitchen, but if you want to eat out, the pensión is the place to go. Good quality home cooking.

On you go, buen camino, Laurie

 

[pilgrim b]

Bravo Isabelle, so pleased your taking things at a slower pace and get well soon many blessings to you. Buen camino.

 

[isabelle304]

Day 9 - Berducedo-Grandas de Salime

Beautiful walk today but quite a bit of road walking (a nasty steep hill just after La Mesa and later the long and winding road along the embalse).

As has been the case so far, gorgeous weather, blue skies and sunshine yaddy yaddy yadda. Took lots of photos of the dam and the area around - was fascinated by all the constructions on the hill above the dam, wondering what purpose they might have served. Three of them looked like giant gas bottles or grain stores!

Have decided to risk it in an Albergue again, although I might make a hasty exit soon as it is filling up quickly and that's making me anxious.

 

[ebrandt]

I am so glad to read that you are continuing to feel better. Hope the Albergue was OK!

 

[peregrina2000]

Day 9 - Berducedo-Grandas de Salime

Beautiful walk today but quite a bit of road walking (a nasty steep hill just after La Mesa and later the long and winding road along the embalse).

As has been the case so far, gorgeous weather, blue skies and sunshine yaddy yaddy yadda. Took lots of photos of the dam and the area around - was fascinated by all the constructions on the hill above the dam, wondering what purpose they might have served. Three of them looked like giant gas bottles or grain stores!

Have decided to risk it in an Albergue again, although I might make a hasty exit soon as it is filling up quickly and that's making me anxious.

Way to go, Isaebelle! Really happy that you are having great weather. The Grandas albergue has had a recent change in hospitalero, not sure why, some camino politics no doubt. It's a great albergue, in my experience. Keep on walking, peregrina! Abrazos from Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

If I understood the situation correctly, the hospitalera for this Albergue in Grandas is also the hospitalera for La Mesa. She was around this afternoon then she had to drive to La Mesa then she came back here around 9 pm.

 

[isabelle304]

Day 10 - Grandas de Salime to Fonsagrada - Urgh! Bit of a slog for me. All was well till Alto de Acebo. Then, as soon as I stepped into Galicia, the heavens opened. Rain, rain, rain all the way to Fonsagrada. Arrived there very wet and with heavy legs.

Now all dried and rested, want to put in a recommendation for the Albergue Cantabrico (a private albergue/pension located just behind the church) which opened in May, I think. Very friendly welcome and a-ma-zing facilities. 3 spacious rooms, bedding provided (fitted sheet, top sheet and quilt!), individual bedside lamps and shelves (for the top bunks too), plenty of electricity sockets for people to charge their doodahs, huge modern kitchen with gazillion brand new crockery, 2 sets of hobs, 4 microwaves, large fridge, dishwasher. Great bathrooms (inc a disabled one), 4 washing machines, 4 tumble driers (cheaper to use than I've seen anywhere else - ie only 2 euros for washing and 1 euro per 20 mins of drying). Free WiFi. Huge flat screen tv (if you like that kind of thing!). Machine dispensing not only drinks but also food products you may want to cook in the kitchen (eg pasta etc). If you are in Fonsagrada do check it out, it still smells brand new and is squeaky clean. It's also a pension so they have private rooms upstairs.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Isabelle, you must be really on the mend, because that little hike up to Alto de Acebo can be a bit difficult. I remember that I was walking alongside some bikes on the way up and we were trudging along at about the same pace, so the incline must be steep.

Thanks for the tip on the new albergue, I had seen several other recommendations but nothing quite so detailed. Hope the weather is nice to you today, because there are some absolutely gorgeous stretches on this next stage. Did you get some good pulpo in Fonsagrada?

Buen camino, peregrina. Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

Day 11 - Fonsagrada to Castroverde

I followed Laurie's example to pile on a few further kms today in order to have a "short" day tomorrow for arriving in Lugo. Longest day for me so far - still not sure how I managed it, especially as it was already nearly 5 pm by the time I got to O Cadavo, with still 7 or 8 km to go!

Weather today decided to play nice again. Temperatures have clearly dropped down but sun and blue skies returned, and all was well in the Primitivo world once again. Great walk but crikey the worst steep hill I've had to tackle this Camino! Made my heart work so hard I could hear blood rushing to my head.

Tonight am at the Castroverde public albergue. Only 5 of us here as the majority of other peregrinos chose to stay in O Cadavo. This albergue is very modern and so spacious we could swing a hundred cats. Very much of the standard of all the public albergues found in Galicia on the Via de la Plata, ie very good.

Nothing much to report on health front (am 90% fine) except I've lost a toe nail today and my toe is looking really spongey and gooey now (sorry to any of you reading this while eating!).

Looking forward to arriving in Lugo tomorrow - at some point I did not think I'd make it this far. Must decide tomorrow whether to send a begging email to my boss asking for a bit more time off to enable me to finish my Primitivo, or decide from where or when to catch a bus back to Santiago. Technically I should be flying back on Friday morning to be back at work on Saturday

 

[jnoval]

Day 11 - Fonsagrada to Castroverde

I followed Laurie's example to pile on a few further kms today in order to have a "short" day tomorrow for arriving in Lugo. Longest day for me so far - still not sure how I managed it, especially as it was already nearly 5 pm by the time I got to O Cadavo, with still 7 or 8 km to go!

Weather today decided to play nice again. Temperatures have clearly dropped down but sun and blue skies returned, and all was well in the Primitivo world once again. Great walk but crikey the worst steep hill I've had to tackle this Camino! Made my heart work so hard I could hear blood rushing to my head.

Tonight am at the Castroverde public albergue. Only 5 of us here as the majority of other peregrinos chose to stay in O Cadavo. This albergue is very modern and so spacious we could swing a hundred cats. Very much of the standard of all the public albergues found in Galicia on the Via de la Plata, ie very good.

Nothing much to report on health front (am 90% fine) except I've lost a toe nail today and my toe is looking really spongey and gooey now (sorry to any of you reading this while eating!).

Looking forward to arriving in Lugo tomorrow - at some point I did not think I'd make it this far. Must decide tomorrow whether to send a begging email to my boss asking for a bit more time off to enable me to finish my Primitivo, or decide from where or when to catch a bus back to Santiago. Technically I should be flying back on Friday morning to be back at work on Saturday

Way to go, chica! You are making great progress. You have about five days worth of walking unless you crank out a couple of longer days. Maybe you can get an extra day or so from your boss? Then you can make it by Friday to Santiago and have enough time to fly home on Sunday and ready for the "salt mines" on Monday? I hope you get to finish your camino and thanks for posting about the albergues as I am taking note of your observations to better plan our trip. Adelante y suerte.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Isabelle,
You are AMAZING, way to go! I have been reading on another primitivo blog, maybe Kat's, that there is something gastrointestinal floating up and down the Primitivo -- that, of course, is not news to you.

Good to hear about the new albergue, sounds very nice. By cutting those km off tomorrow's walk, you will have time to enjoy Lugo. In case you haven't seen someone else's recent post, avoid the Roots and Boots albergue, which I have never seen (maybe it's new), but it is apparently a bit out of town. You will probably get to Lugo early and will have to decide whether to wait till the albergue opens (NEVER a second early will he open) or find a pension. There's a nice one not too far from the albergue, but I never stayed there and can't for the life of me remember its name.

Fingers crossed for a generous and understanding boss. Buen camino and wishing you a good plate of octopus, that is if that sort of thing appeals to you! Laurie

 

[Theatregal]

Day 11 - Fonsagrada to Castroverde

I followed Laurie's example to pile on a few further kms today in order to have a "short" day tomorrow for arriving in Lugo. Longest day for me so far - still not sure how I managed it, especially as it was already nearly 5 pm by the time I got to O Cadavo, with still 7 or 8 km to go!

Weather today decided to play nice again. Temperatures have clearly dropped down but sun and blue skies returned, and all was well in the Primitivo world once again. Great walk but crikey the worst steep hill I've had to tackle this Camino! Made my heart work so hard I could hear blood rushing to my head.

Tonight am at the Castroverde public albergue. Only 5 of us here as the majority of other peregrinos chose to stay in O Cadavo. This albergue is very modern and so spacious we could swing a hundred cats. Very much of the standard of all the public albergues found in Galicia on the Via de la Plata, ie very good.

Nothing much to report on health front (am 90% fine) except I've lost a toe nail today and my toe is looking really spongey and gooey now (sorry to any of you reading this while eating!).

Looking forward to arriving in Lugo tomorrow - at some point I did not think I'd make it this far. Must decide tomorrow whether to send a begging email to my boss asking for a bit more time off to enable me to finish my Primitivo, or decide from where or when to catch a bus back to Santiago. Technically I should be flying back on Friday morning to be back at work on Saturday

So great Isabelle! (Other than your poor toe!) Hope you'll have some time to walk the wall in Lugo and see some of this lovely city.

 

[Mike Savage]

Sorry about the toe but other than that you are doing great! Good luck on your decision regarding more time.

 

[isabelle304]

Day 12 - Castroverde to Lugo

Sigh. Rain. Rain. More rain. In Lugo now, well esconced in the Public Albergue, waiting for rain to stop so that I can go up on the wall.

Walk from Castroverde went fairly well, except that I made the mistake of getting a can of Coke from the first distributor I came across after leaving Castroverde - I seem to recall Laurie getting a coffee without a cup from that place. Well I got a nice WARM Coke. Extremely warm, in fact nearly hot. Bleurgh! Took 2 gulps and then had to pour the whole can out.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hmmm, your experience suggests people should avoid that first vending machine. And know that another one is coming along.

But the real question is, what did your boss say?????

Here's hoping that the rain stops!

 

[isabelle304]

Day 13 - Lugo to Ferreira

Once again, lovely weather for ducks! Rain all day - by the time I got to the Albergue Ponte Ferreira I was a squeaking, squelching, dripping mess.

Albergue feels very welcoming and smells of incense. Presently sitting in a very pleasant and bright sitting area, very much looking forward to our paella dinner.

I've re-discovered forgotten pockets on my rucksack, which I had stuffed with cobnuts and walnuts found along the way. They're helping me fill the void till dinner.

Looks like I'll make it back to Santiago on Friday. I've booked myself on a flight back to the UK on Saturday morning, so I'll be still able to turn up at work that day (albeit feeling and looking pretty rough!)

Planning to walk to Boente tomorrow if the weather is not too bad...

 

[peregrina2000]

Isabelle, in spite of the rain, your spirits must be pretty high to think that you will be able to complete this camino despite all of the obstacles thrown your way. So happy to hear that, and I hope the weather changes so that you have a nice walk to Boente (maybe with a stop in Melide for pulpo???). BTW, if you do stay in Boente, tell him the Americana with white hair says hi. He recognized me when I stopped for a coffee this summer, and he is a really nice guy with a high quality albergue. Even has a swimming pool, but it sounds like you might not be needing that! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

Isabelle, in spite of the rain, your spirits must be pretty high to think that you will be able to complete this camino despite all of the obstacles thrown your way. So happy to hear that, and I hope the weather changes so that you have a nice walk to Boente (maybe with a stop in Melide for pulpo???). BTW, if you do stay in Boente, tell him the Americana with white hair says hi. He recognized me when I stopped for a coffee this summer, and he is a really nice guy with a high quality albergue. Even has a swimming pool, but it sounds like you might not be needing that! Buen camino, Laurie

Laurie please could you clarify which albergue you are referring to in Boente? I've just looked on Gronze and they have 2 listed in Boente. The one I want is the one you've mentioned in past posts.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Os Boente is the only albergue I have every left after paying my money...

Albergue Boente is great.

 

[TerryB]

Once again, lovely weather for ducks! Rain all day . . . . . . . Planning to walk to Boente tomorrow if the weather is not too bad...

Hi Isabelle,
Looking at the Atlantic pressure chart, be prepared for more rain tomorrow (Wednesday) then things may improve a bit for you on Thursday and Friday
You have done so well after all the trials and tribulations, you deserve a break. However, "The rain in Spain falls mainly in Galicia"

Blessings on the rest of your Camino
Tio Tel

 

[isabelle304]

Hi Isabelle,
Looking at the Atlantic pressure chart, be prepared for more rain tomorrow (Wednesday) then things may improve a bit for you on Thursday and Friday
You have done so well after all the trials and tribulations, you deserve a break. However, "The rain in Spain falls mainly in Galicia"

Blessings on the rest of your Camino
Tio Tel

Thanks Terry for the weather forecast. To be honest the least I am hoping for is sunshine for Friday. On my first Camino I arrived in Santiago under the rain and found that quite miserable

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie please could you clarify which albergue you are referring to in Boente? I've just looked on Gronze and they have 2 listed in Boente. The one I want is the one you've mentioned in past posts.

Hi, Isabelle. Falcon is exactly right. The Albergue Boente, is the first one you come to as you walk into Boente. It's on the left. There is a café space with a bar straight behind you. The albergue is behind it and upstairs.

There is also an old pension in town, the Os Boente, which is beyond the Albergue, on the same side of the street. That bar doesn't run parallel to the street as the albergue's bar does, it runs perpendicular to the street. It is further back from the street than the albergue.

If in doubt, ask to see the swimming pool. If there's a swimming pool, that's the place you want! Buen camino, Isabelle, you are getting nearer and nearer. Abrazos from Laurie

 

[isabelle304]

Day 14 - Ferreira to Boente

That was yesterday. A pig of a day. Much more rain than previous day - there were actually puddles inside my shoes. I thought I'd never get to Boente. When I did, very surly welcome at the Albergue. Felt like a piece of cattle being processed for the abattoir. Facilities for washing and drying clothes totally inadequate. 30 very wet pilgrims fighting over one washer and one dryer with very long programmes. I gave up on this as a bad job and had to put on clothes still wet from day before and got into bed shivering and smelling like a wet dog.

Only positive to the day: enormous hamburger and plate of chips I got at the Albergue to warm myself up a little...

This is the last time I walk a Camino that goes through Galicia! (Next time, Camino Mozarabe here I come! Haha!)

 

[Deleted member 3000]

very surly welcome at the Albergue

Which albergue? Dry out, and have fun!

 

[isabelle304]

Day 15 - Boente to Pedrouzo

Sigh. What can I say except rain and more rain. Whole of me still damp from not having been able to dry out yesterday. Camino is overcrowded now, at one point I suddenly found myself in the middle of a group of 60 or so 13-year school boys on their way to Monte de Gozo. It was raining quite heavily at this point and we were all jostling for space on a narrow path in the mud. Luckily the boys were a delight, happily singing little songs and really getting into the Camino spirit.

After a quick lunch stop (a shandy and a kit-Kat), I felt oddly perked up and continued sloshing on to Pedrouzo. I can only remember one albergue being here last time I came through (the municipal one) and now there is so much choice!

I picked the Albergue Cruceiro de Pedrouzo because it was a bit off the beaten path - I think it's quite new, and I really recommend it to anyone coming through. Very modern, friendly atmosphere, well designed. Two washers and dryers so I was finally able to wash and dry the smelly damp clothes I'd had to put on in Boente. Very spacious and airy - there is even a sauna! Lights by all beds, 2 electricity sockets per bed. Kichen, large sitting area, tv. Perfect and i feel very happy here on my last night on the Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

Day 15 - Boente to Pedrouzo

Sigh. What can I say except rain and more rain. Whole of me still damp from not having been able to dry out yesterday. Camino is overcrowded now, at one point I suddenly found myself in the middle of a group of 60 or so 13-year school boys on their way to Monte de Gozo. It was raining quite heavily at this point and we were all jostling for space on a narrow path in the mud. Luckily the boys were a delight, happily singing little songs and really getting into the Camino spirit.

After a quick lunch stop (a shandy and a kit-Kat), I felt oddly perked up and continued sloshing on to Pedrouzo. I can only remember one albergue being here last time I came through (the municipal one) and now there is so much choice!

I picked the Albergue Cruceiro de Pedrouzo because it was a bit off the beaten path - I think it's quite new, and I really recommend it to anyone coming through. Very modern, friendly atmosphere, well designed. Two washers and dryers so I was finally able to wash and dry the smelly damp clothes I'd had to put on in Boente. Very spacious and airy - there is even a sauna! Lights by all beds, 2 electricity sockets per bed. Kichen, large sitting area, tv. Perfect and i feel very happy here on my last night on the Camino.

I'm sorry that the weather has been so bad for the last few days, but I have fingers crossed that tomorrow will be better for your arrival into Santiago. Weather sites put the risk of rain at 20% in Santiago tomorrow, so maybe you will be lucky!

Wishing you a great last day on the Camino, Isabelle, you should really be pretty jazzed up at your accomplishments!

 

[Mike Savage]

. . . you should really be pretty jazzed up at your accomplishments!

I agree! (you have come through so many challenges)

 

[isabelle304]

Day 16 - Pedrouzo to Santiago

Eeek! Has it really taken me 16 days to walk the Primitivo?!

Santiago was smiling on me today because guess what? No rain! No rain!

Ok I lie. A few drops in the afternoon while I was loitering on Plaza da Obradoiro.

Walk itself was rain-free though. I´ve only ever arrived in Santiago in November, so had never witnessed the lava-like flow of pilgrims all marching up and down little hills towards the city, like unstoppable little soldier ants (sorry, I am mixing my metaphors!).

On arriving, I suddenly remembered that tomorrow is the National Holiday. The city is heaving with crowds all here for the weekend/National Holiday, I guess. I tried to find a hotel but they were all full. A very helpful lady at the tourist office informed me, when I told her I´d rather not stay in an albergue, that the Seminario Menor has individual room as well as dormitory accommodation (I should have known that, I am sure it´s been mentioned before on this forum!). On my previous visits to Santiago, the Seminario Menor has either been closed or of no interest to me, but now I am here I find that I love this place, it is so basic but it feels like home. What an amazing sprawling building! I´d love to know more about its uses since it was built - will have to do a bit of research when I get home. It especially like the large dining room area in the basement, it´s just like being at college! I normally like to treat myself at the end of a camino, but for some reason this place just feels right for me, I am kinda of glad all the hotels were full and I was "forced" to come here.

I collected my two compostelas today. First one from the Franciscans (they were being issued from 5pm to 7pm) took 1 min. The one from the Pilgrim Office took 1.30 hour, I was stood in that queue in that lovely courtyard from 7.30pm to 9pm! Crikey! but at least it was not raining!!!

Taking a morning flight back to London tomorrow but will write more once I´ve had time to digest my thoughts. This has been my shortest but possibly hardest camino and I´ve learnt quite a few lessons to put into practice next time (next time?! am already thinking about next time!).

Thanks to all the usual suspects for all the encouragement and the rah-rah-rah. As some of you may know, the Camino can be a really lonely enterprise and it always helps to know that somewhere out there, someone knows what I am going through.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Congratulations! Travel safely.

 

[peregrina2000]

Congratulations, Isabelle. So for your next act....... Norte? Portugues? Vasco Interior? Levante? The possibilities are limitless!

Safe journey home, amiga, I'll bet it's hard to believe you'll be at work tomorrow! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[wayfarer]

Congratulations Isabelle, well done.

 

[Mike Savage]

Congratulations! I'm so glad you made it and am grinning from ear to ear! Safe travels home.

 

[Kanga]

Isabelle thank you for taking us along with you. I'm hoping to walk the Norte and Primitivo next year so it's been very helpful.

 

[TerryB]

Thanks Terry for the weather forecast. To be honest the least I am hoping for is sunshine for Friday. On my first Camino I arrived in Santiago under the rain and found that quite miserable

Congratulations Isabelle I am pleased things worked out well for your last day - it is always best remembered. After all the trials and tribulations you can now "rest on your laurels" - Oh no you can't - I forgot! You are already looking for your next challenge. No satisfying some people

Blessings on your planning
Tio Tel

 

[Pelegrin]

Congratulations! Thank you for your posts.

 

[ebrandt]

So glad you had a great arrival day!

 

[isabelle304]

Congratulations, Isabelle. So for your next act....... Norte? Portugues? Vasco Interior? Levante? The possibilities are limitless!

Well since I got back I have been poring over the gronze.com Map of the Caminos. The VdlP has been my favourite camino to walk so far (both in terms of scenery and solitude), so am presently concentrating on those caminos that feed into the VdlP - the Mozarabe (either from Granada or Malaga), the Levante, the Camino del Sur. Additionally, I still wish to give the Camino Ingles a go, but with that one I am being more hesitant, my very soggy experience of the past week has definitely put me off walking in Galicia unless I (i) totally overhaul my rainy weather equipment and (ii) can be sure I'll be able to overnight in places where I can get cleaned up and dried off with no fuss and no stress.

ps: Also, you might laugh but I do want to redo the Primitivo, but this time in 12 days/without the nasty cold and all the throwing up . Second time round I'll like to append it to the Camino del Salvador, and take the Hospitales route (although to be fair, I really loved the route via Pola de Allende).

 

[ebrandt]

It is amazing how the Camino gets into your blood! After your Primitivo experience, some might have thought you were done with Caminos for the time being!