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My turn for a LIVE thread - starting from Lisbon

trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
I arrived in Lisbon on Wednesday after some stressful last minute flight changes. My evening flight from Denver to London was super delayed, so I had to accept an itinerary that left 4.5 hours earlier. I was literally on the phone with the United agent while I was simultaneously dragging suitcase and backpack upstairs and requesting an Uber to the airport. I made it there just about 10 minutes before boarding for the first of three flights. I arrived in Lisbon having barely slept a wink.

After a marathon sleep session I was still tired so opted for the hop on hop off bus tour to get an overview of the city.

Today I met up with forum members @jungleboy and @Wendy Werneth. After a short tour we had drinks then dinner, and took the obligatory selfie.

I'll be off bright and early in the morning!

20220506_191628.jpg
 
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Time of past OR future Camino
2017 Camino Frances,
2019 C. Portuguese (inland).
You must have set off by now trecile, or getting close to setting off. Lisbon is a beautiful city, I’m jealous. My wife and I did that Camino two years ago. A wonderful experience.
Enjoy the city and enjoy the walk. Looking forward to your posts.
 
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May15, 2022
I arrived in Lisbon on Wednesday after some stressful last minute flight changes. My evening flight from Denver to London was super delayed, so I had to accept an itinerary that left 4.5 hours earlier. I was literally on the phone with the United agent while I was simultaneously dragging suitcase and backpack upstairs and requesting an Uber to the airport. I made it there just about 10 minutes before boarding for the first of three flights. I arrived in Lisbon having barely slept a wink.

After a marathon sleep session I was still tired so opted for the hop on hop off bus tour to get an overview of the city.

Today I met up with forum members @jungleboy and @Wendy Werneth. After a short tour we had drinks then dinner, and took the obligatory selfie.

I'll be off bright and early in the morning!

View attachment 124587
So good to see your smiling face!! Happy it all worked out for you.
 

The Yukon

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portuguese, Jacobs Weg, Camino Frances, Tui to Fatima
That was me in Lisbon 5 months ago and 600 km later. It’s such a grin that first morning out. And you’ve been such a positive inspiration on this site. Thanks for posting and welcoming us subArctic dwellers to ignore the snow still in our yard and to live vicariously for a moment. Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!
 

trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
I hope you catch up on your sleep
I wish that I had caught up on my sleep last night. Instead nervous excitement kept me awake.
you’re much younger than I had assumed
Thank you - sunglasses are good at hiding wrinkles. 😎

@jungleboy graciously offered to walk part way with me today. We met at this impressive sculpture made of trash in the Parque das Nações on the way out of Lisbon. It was wonderful having his company.

20220507_180323.jpg

We arrived in Alpriate about an hour before the albergue opened. Fortunately, I had made a reservation, as there was already a "completo" sign on the door. A couple of Irish pilgrims that we met were disappointed, and struggled to find another place to stay. They decided to skip ahead to Santarém.

This part of the Camino is very busy right now with pilgrims heading to Fatima, and there are only 10 beds in the albergue. I had been second guessing my decision to book most of my accommodations ahead, but I'm glad that I did.
 
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trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
Some notes about the albergue in Alpriate:
This year they are accepting and encouraging reservations.
Gronze says that there are 10 beds, but I only count 9. They are all single beds - no bunks, and there's lots of space between beds.
They currently don't provide blankets or pillows.
There is no Wi-Fi
You must have proof of vaccination to stay.
 
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Jeff Crawley

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
A "Tourigrino" trip once Covid has passed, so 2023
Have a great Caminho, if you get the chance to spend a day in Porto it's well worth it. I recommend the Yellow Bus hop-on, hop-off tour - you'll see a lot from the top deck and, in the days BCE (Before Current Epidemic) you could plug in for a running commentary.
Don't forget to sample the local delicacy: a francesinha sandwich - go on, I dare you ;)
 

trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
Have a great Caminho, if you get the chance to spend a day in Porto it's well worth it. I recommend the Yellow Bus hop-on, hop-off tour - you'll see a lot from the top deck and, in the days BCE (Before Current Epidemic) you could plug in for a running commentary.
Don't forget to sample the local delicacy: a francesinha sandwich - go on, I dare you ;)
I did the yellow bus tour in Lisbon - it was an excellent way for my sleep deprived and jet-lagged self to see some of the sights.

On a previous stay in Porto I did try the francesinha sandwich, and now I never have to eat one again. 😂
 

trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
I had a good sleep at the Alpriate albergue. My bed was in its own alcove. There was some coughing coming from at least one other bed, but I like to think that the open skylight between my alcove and the other beds carried any nasty germs away while delivering fresh air to me.
And the coughing sounded more like an "old man cough" than a sick cough. Regardless, I will be vigilant and take a test if I feel any symptoms.

20220508_172751.jpg

Today's shortish walk from Alpriate to Vila Franca de Xira was pretty nice. Although the Camino passes through some industrial areas on the outskirts of Lisbon there were lots of lovely wildflowers along the path, and much of the day the Camino was alongside an estuary and the Tagus river.

20220508_151826.jpg 20220508_115627.jpg 20220508_151956.jpg 20220508_152023.jpg
 
Time of past OR future Camino
Latest: Rota Vicentina '19; Portuguese '19.
On a previous stay in Porto I did try the francesinha sandwich, and now I never have to eat one again. 😂
You make me glad I'd not heard of that sandwich when I was in Porto...whew!

sunglasses are good at hiding wrinkles. 😎
I hear ya about that @trecile, and agree! 😉

So happy for you to be walking on a Camino! Enjoy to the fullest and I know you will keep us updated!
 
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Although the Camino passes through some industrial areas on the outskirts of Lisbon there were lots of lovely wildflowers along the path, and much of the day the Camino was alongside an estuary and the Tagus river.
Buen camino @trecile!
I'm really enjoying your simple posts with a few here. Thank you!
 
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Friend from Barquinha

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
None yet; perhaps the Portugese (2021?)
Here's the "innards" of the one I had. No, I didn't finish it. 🤢

View attachment 124759
Francesinhas are definitely...not exactly an "acquired taste" since I think few "curious but not super fond of ultra high-fat/high-carb food" visitors ever eat more than one. And many of us never try them at all.

Kind of a novelty tourist attraction aimed at the Portuguese tourist to Porto who really likes lots of meat and really rich food...

They don't even use normal, extremely good Portuguese bread; they use the Portuguese equivalent of Wonderbread or Bimbo.

There are so many excellent Portuguese dishes...try one of them, instead 😋
 
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wayfarer

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
2012, 2013, 2014.
I arrived in Lisbon on Wednesday after some stressful last minute flight changes. My evening flight from Denver to London was super delayed, so I had to accept an itinerary that left 4.5 hours earlier. I was literally on the phone with the United agent while I was simultaneously dragging suitcase and backpack upstairs and requesting an Uber to the airport. I made it there just about 10 minutes before boarding for the first of three flights. I arrived in Lisbon having barely slept a wink.

After a marathon sleep session I was still tired so opted for the hop on hop off bus tour to get an overview of the city.

Today I met up with forum members @jungleboy and @Wendy Werneth. After a short tour we had drinks then dinner, and took the obligatory selfie.

I'll be off bright and early in the morning!

View attachment 124587
Buen Camino trecile.
 

Jeff Crawley

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
A "Tourigrino" trip once Covid has passed, so 2023
Francesinhas are definitely...not exactly an "acquired taste" since I think few "curious but not super fond of ultra high-fat/high-carb food" visitors ever eat more than one. And many of us never try them at all.

Kind of a novelty tourist attraction aimed at the Portuguese tourist to Porto who really likes lots of meat and really rich food...

They don't even use normal, extremely good Portuguese bread; they use the Portuguese equivalent of Wonderbread or Bimbo.

There are so many excellent Portuguese dishes...try one of them, instead 😋
Mind you it does have 70 years of history - not that many tourists in Porto back then!

(Last words on a posting I inadvertently hijacked.)
 
Last edited:

biarritzdon

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CF11, CF12, CP13, CF14, CA15, S.Anton15, CF&CI15
Ditch Pig16, CF&CP17, CdN18, CM18, CF18, LePuy19
Following your blog, Bom Caminho.
 
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Albertinho

Albertinho left the forum
Time of past OR future Camino
Nunca mais
Francesinha , the cholesterol bomb .Typical fastfood from the north of Portugal.
It tastes good .
 

Suzanne H

Camino Junkie
Time of past OR future Camino
CF'17; LePuy'18; Porto/Coastal'19; Portugal? '22
Hi @trecile from the Willamette Valley! I’ll be following you out of Lisbon next month, unless the heat becomes too much and I’ll reassess. I also have an umbrella and plan to bring it, for sure.

i noted from your initial post that you flew with a suitcase and I’m wondering if you shipped it to SdC from Lisbon, or if you’ll use a baggage service? Curious which services you are using and how everything is working out.

thanks, also, on the note re. prebooking… I’ve been assuming that I’ll be the only foolish one to walk from Lisbon in the heat of June, but perhaps I should reassess.
I’m following your blog with interest!
Bom caminho, and thanks!
Suzanne
 

trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
Hi @trecile from the Willamette Valley! I’ll be following you out of Lisbon next month, unless the heat becomes too much and I’ll reassess. I also have an umbrella and plan to bring it, for sure.

i noted from your initial post that you flew with a suitcase and I’m wondering if you shipped it to SdC from Lisbon, or if you’ll use a baggage service? Curious which services you are using and how everything is working out.

thanks, also, on the note re. prebooking… I’ve been assuming that I’ll be the only foolish one to walk from Lisbon in the heat of June, but perhaps I should reassess.
I’m following your blog with interest!
Bom caminho, and thanks!
Suzanne
I used a company called Luggage Driver that someone else mentioned on the forum to send my suitcase to Santiago.

It's particularly busy on this stretch until Santarém because this is also part of the route to Fatima. Many pilgrims going there for the anniversary of the first apparition on May 13th.
 

Walton

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2016 Sjpp to Sdc. 2018 Lisbon to Sdc to Finisterre. Next up hopefully VDP or Del Norte.
We will be watching your progress Trecile.

You seem to be walking an almost identical Camino that we did in 2017.

We had dinner at the Alpriate sports club and that was interesting and enjoyable!

Buen Camino

Graham
 
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trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
I'm not walking today. 😥
For the first time ever on the Camino I am going to take transport to my next destination.

Yesterday was not a long day, but I was really dragging. The day was hot and uninspiring, mostly walking on the side of the road, or on a gravel road alongside railroad tracks. There were not many places to stop to take a rest (and I passed them before I needed a rest) Though I did find some pretty wildflowers to take pictures of.

20220510_102132.jpg
I put myself in a bad mindset for the 33km walk from Azumbaja to Santarém that I was to do today. I kept thinking if this 22km feels so hard how am I going to walk 33km in the heat? I was pretty sure that someone had put lead weights in my backpack and sandals.

I also probably didn't eat enough while I was walking - only an orange, a croissant and a Coke.

However, after a very good dinner of roast chicken and potatoes I was feeling better about the day ahead. All I had to do was wake up early enough to start walking by 6:00, and I could arrive before the maximum heat of the day.

So I went to bed early, but kept thinking about how I had to wake up early, and then the anxiety set in. Nine o'clock came and went, then ten. At 11:00 I changed my alarm for an hour later - if I fell asleep before midnight I could still get at least 6 hours sleep. At midnight I did the same, deciding that being well rested was more important than starting early.

I did breathing exercises, I counted backwards from 100 by 3s. I did a few yoga poses. The tightness in my chest caused by the anxiety would not go away, nor would the thoughts creating that anxiety.

By 1:18am I gave myself permission to take the train.

Sleep finally came sometime around 2:30.

Then I woke up naturally around 6:30. I was still very tired, but before rolling over and going back to sleep I contemplated getting up and walking, but I realized that 33km in the heat on 4 hours sleep was probably a bad idea.

So tomorrow I restart my Camino from Santarém.
 

trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
I forgot to mention that if I hadn't pre-booked most of my accommodation I would just stay here in Azambuja today and walk tomorrow to Santarém.

I pre-booked to stay mostly in private rooms to give myself (and my kids, because they worry about me) peace of mind because of Covid.

Yesterday I started thinking "do I have Covid? Is that why I'm struggling on what should be an easy day for me?"

I don't have any symptoms at all, but that's how my mind works.

I'm just going to accept that this year my Camino will be different. Not worse, just different.
 

jungleboy

Spirit of the Camino (Nick)
Time of past OR future Camino
A few in the past; more in the future!
Shortcut tip for tomorrow from my notes:

Between Vale de Figueira and Azinhaga, the trail is mostly dirt paths through cornfields and these were the hottest conditions of the camino so far. There is some way marking confusion here. It looks like the old markings took pilgrims via Reguengo de Alviela and Pombalinho, which is a big detour. New markings take a more direct route to Azinhaga but there is an even more direct route that you can take if it hasn’t been raining (prone to flooding, apparently) that takes about 3km off even that more direct route (and over 5km off the 26.9km quoted in the Village-to-Village guidebook!). See this map below and follow my green line for the shortest route through the corn fields (this involves going straight at one point rather than following arrows to the left).

39151A1A-515C-4B5C-BD38-D7ECD182CD48.jpeg
 
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Sorry to hear of your troubles… booking ahead puts a more rigid schedule in place. Add in heat and some anxiety and suddenly Camino life seems more pressurized. So, I wonder how you can take some of thi pressure off yourself. Can you book only 2 or 3 days at a time, to allow for breaks and changes? Not sure how available rooms are, but I feel your pain. Take some deep breaths, start over and maybe send that bag ahead! It’s ok, you’re a good person
 
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Trecile, I am sorry to hear of your disappointing day and appreciate your transparency in sharing with us. Things should improve for you soon, as most of us have had a few similar experiences being "down" and it's not always about injuries. I'm sure your brightness will return after a dark day or two.
I had recently contemplated the Camino myself from Lisbon, but decided to reconsider after a few messages to a forum member who lives in Lisbon😉 about the route.
I wish you the strength and determination to continue, both physically and emotionally.🤗
 

JohnLloyd

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Francés (2018), Português (2019), Inglés (2022)
I'd equate each Camino to raising a child.

You conceive it in hope, then you create it with each day's effort.

But even with careful nurturing, it starts to be its own entity, with its own character and challenges.

By then, you're committed and there's no turning back.

You're in for a ride, as Bill Hicks taught us.

Ups and downs, thrills and spills, twists and turns.

The tough moments will be balanced by better times to come.

Keep going - it'll be fine.
 
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trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
I arrived in Santarém after first missing the stop - I wasn't paying attention, and thought that it was farther. 🤦‍♀️
Fortunately it wasn't that much of a delay.
I'm staying in a two bedroom apartment that I found on booking.com. I had been hoping to meet another woman to share it, but other than the large groups going to Fatima I've only seen men walking to Santiago.
I'm a little bit outside the center, and right on the Camino.
The good thing is that I'm not exhausted from walking 8 hours, so I can explore a bit. 🙂
 

Bristle Boy

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2022
I'm not walking today. 😥
For the first time ever on the Camino I am going to take transport to my next destination.

Yesterday was not a long day, but I was really dragging. The day was hot and uninspiring, mostly walking on the side of the road, or on a gravel road alongside railroad tracks. There were not many places to stop to take a rest (and I passed them before I needed a rest) Though I did find some pretty wildflowers to take pictures of.

View attachment 124836
I put myself in a bad mindset for the 33km walk from Azumbaja to Santarém that I was to do today. I kept thinking if this 22km feels so hard how am I going to walk 33km in the heat? I was pretty sure that someone had put lead weights in my backpack and sandals.

I also probably didn't eat enough while I was walking - only an orange, a croissant and a Coke.

However, after a very good dinner of roast chicken and potatoes I was feeling better about the day ahead. All I had to do was wake up early enough to start walking by 6:00, and I could arrive before the maximum heat of the day.

So I went to bed early, but kept thinking about how I had to wake up early, and then the anxiety set in. Nine o'clock came and went, then ten. At 11:00 I changed my alarm for an hour later - if I fell asleep before midnight I could still get at least 6 hours sleep. At midnight I did the same, deciding that being well rested was more important than starting early.

I did breathing exercises, I counted backwards from 100 by 3s. I did a few yoga poses. The tightness in my chest caused by the anxiety would not go away, nor would the thoughts creating that anxiety.

By 1:18am I gave myself permission to take the train.

Sleep finally came sometime around 2:30.

Then I woke up naturally around 6:30. I was still very tired, but before rolling over and going back to sleep I contemplated getting up and walking, but I realized that 33km in the heat on 4 hours sleep was probably a bad idea.

So tomorrow I restart my Camino from Santarém.
Tomorrow will be a better day...all things pass.
Best wishes and support from the UK.

Edit: looks like it is and it has 😃
 

Friend from Barquinha

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
None yet; perhaps the Portugese (2021?)
I forgot to mention that if I hadn't pre-booked most of my accommodation I would just stay here in Azambuja today and walk tomorrow to Santarém.

I pre-booked to stay mostly in private rooms to give myself (and my kids, because they worry about me) peace of mind because of Covid.

Yesterday I started thinking "do I have Covid? Is that why I'm struggling on what should be an easy day for me?"

I don't have any symptoms at all, but that's how my mind works.

I'm just going to accept that this year my Camino will be different. Not worse, just different.
It occurs to me, though I'm not a walker but only a supporter myself, that the Lisboa>north first sections of the Portuguese caminho are a big challenge, in a very different way than the geographic challenges of the first stages of the main Spanish camino.

Because there are so few walkers on this section, one doesn't have the same peer support that exists on a busier camino. Truly takes perseverance to carry on, walking an uninteresting and, in this weather, quite difficult opening section all alone. A real caminho test!

Enjoy Santarém, catch your breath (figuratively) and catch up on your sleep, enjoy the much pleasanter and more interesting parts to come, and congratulations for carrying on, Trecile!
 

trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
Oops! It's almost 2:30, and I've forgotten to eat again.

I'm now sitting on the shady terrace of a restaurant awaiting a hamburger.

My apartment is near the train station. I thought that it was odd that I didn't see a city when I got off the train. Now that I've walked up that beast of a hill I'm doubly happy that I didn't walk today.

If I had, I'm sure that I would have just planted myself in the apartment and not ventured up the hill to see Santarém.

After exploring the town I'll go to a supermercado and bring dinner (and breakfast!) back with me.
 
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Friend from Barquinha

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
None yet; perhaps the Portugese (2021?)
Oops! It's almost 2:30, and I've forgotten to eat again.

I'm now sitting on the shady terrace of a restaurant awaiting a hamburger.

My apartment is near the train station. I thought that it was odd that I didn't see a city when I got off the train. Now that I've walked up that beast of a hill I'm doubly happy that I didn't walk today.
Yes! Santarém is really deceptive. There's not much of the city down at the bottom of that hill. As you say, it's a beast of a hill to the old part of town.

If you have time after lunch, there are some beautiful and historic old churches in town. Right next to the cathedral, there's a wonderful gallery of Portuguese religious art.

It's a very significant city, in historical terms. Definitely worth checking out a bit after your lunch, if you regain some energy. Going back downhill to your apartment is not so bad as walking up...and there is a bus route that will take you back down the station from up the top. Here's a map of the buses:


Some information about the churches etc.

 

Zennor

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Apr-May 2022 Portuguese from Tui
Thank you for all your honest posts. We're quite interested in walking from Lisbon next year but keep hearing that it's not an enjoyable route. We've just got back from our first Camino but just doing the last 100km from O Porino and via the Variante Spiritual. The itinerary, hotels and luggage transfer was all organised by a company. Now that we've done it, we're keen to carry on by ourselves and start in Lisbon but probably with some trains/buses along the way. We met a lot of pilgrims who had started in Porto but not sure if any had come from Lisbon. It would be good to know which stages/part stages are good to walk. We're likely to stick to max 10-12 miles next time.
Keep posting @trecile and take good care of yourself.
 

Bristle Boy

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2022
Yes! Santarém is really deceptive. There's not much of the city down at the bottom of that hill. As you say, it's a beast of a hill to the old part of town.

If you have time after lunch, there are some beautiful and historic old churches in town. Right next to the cathedral, there's a wonderful gallery of Portuguese religious art.

It's a very significant city, in historical terms. Definitely worth checking out a bit after your lunch, if you regain some energy. Going back downhill to your apartment is not so bad as walking up...and there is a bus route that will take you back down the station from up the top. Here's a map of the buses:


Some information about the churches etc.

That is the forum at it's best. On the spot information in real time. I'm sure that Trecile appreciates that. Well done.
 

trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
@Zennor - I think that normally I would have been able to split my stages differently, but with all the Pilgrims going to Fatima this particular week much of the accommodation was fully booked for the first several days.
 

Friend from Barquinha

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
None yet; perhaps the Portugese (2021?)
That is the forum at it's best. On the spot information in real time. I'm sure that Trecile appreciates that. Well done.
☺️ Pure luck! 7 am Tuesday here in western Canada, reading this, waiting for a taxi to take me to the airport for our next expedition to central Portugal...will possibly be meeting up with Trecile on Thursday, in Vila Nova da Barquinha...definitely a small world...
 
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Zennor

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Apr-May 2022 Portuguese from Tui
@Zennor - I think that normally I would have been able to split my stages differently, but with all the Pilgrims going to Fatima this particular week much of the accommodation was fully booked for the first several days.
Aah so we need to keep an eye on the best dates. We were happy walking in April and prefer rain to heat. We've walked around Sintra before and April was better for us then although obviously Easter and Holy Week can happen then and make everything busier.
 

trecile

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
Aah so we need to keep an eye on the best dates. We were happy walking in April and prefer rain to heat. We've walked around Sintra before and April was better for us then although obviously Easter and Holy Week can happen then and make everything busier.
I originally planned to start right after Easter, but a toe injury caused me to postpone a couple of weeks.
 

Friend from Barquinha

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
None yet; perhaps the Portugese (2021?)
Aah so we need to keep an eye on the best dates. We were happy walking in April and prefer rain to heat. We've walked around Sintra before and April was better for us then although obviously Easter and Holy Week can happen then and make everything busier.
Bad luck on the weather. Usually, early May would be way cooler than this. A heat wave coming through...here's the forecast for Tomar (and it will be similar from Santarém to there) for the next week.

 

jmbrow29

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Caminho português (2020)
Hi @trecile from the Willamette Valley! I’ll be following you out of Lisbon next month, unless the heat becomes too much and I’ll reassess. I also have an umbrella and plan to bring it, for sure.

i noted from your initial post that you flew with a suitcase and I’m wondering if you shipped it to SdC from Lisbon, or if you’ll use a baggage service? Curious which services you are using and how everything is working out.

thanks, also, on the note re. prebooking… I’ve been assuming that I’ll be the only foolish one to walk from Lisbon in the heat of June, but perhaps I should reassess.
I’m following your blog with interest!
Bom caminho, and thanks!
Suzanne
You won't be the only foolish one...I'm starting in Lisbon on June 1st!
 
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trecile

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PAST - Francés, Norte, Salvador, Portuguese
While I don't particularly subscribe to "the Camino provides" I did meet a Camino angel here in Santarém.
I had planned to stop by a grocery store on the way back down the hill, but I headed towards Jardim das Portas do Sol which led me back downhill and not past any grocery stores!

I messaged the owner of the apartment to ask if there was a place that I could find food without walking back up the hill, and she answered back offering to drive me to a supermercado!

She has walked a few Camino routes, and wants to open a place to house and help pilgrims, and also to help rejuvenate the neighborhood. She and her husband have purchased another house near this apartment where they plan to make this pilgrim refuge.

I asked her to keep in touch with me so that I can help spread the word when they open.
 

trecile

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What a difference a good night's sleep makes!

Today's 23 km walk was pretty easy - I could have walked farther.

My backpack and sandals no longer felt like they had been dipped in lead.
I started out at 6:45 and was soon walking through miles and miles of vineyards.

Almost the entire day the Camino went through agricultural areas, and the walking was very enjoyable.

It was still warm, but the shade from my umbrella and an occasional breeze kept me comfortable.

I arrived in Azinhaga a little after noon. Before heading to Casa Azzancha, the B&B that I'd booked I stopped for a rest on a shady bench overlooking a creek.

I saw the first Camino marker that wasn't also a Fatima marker as the two routes diverged at Santarém.
What I didn't see were any other pilgrims.

20220511_164949.jpg 20220511_164913.jpg 20220511_164845.jpg
 

trecile

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I'm only walking 16 km to Vila Nova da Barquinha today so I took my time getting ready, and also had breakfast at the B&B where I spent the night.

I started on the Camino at 8:00, just in time for the famous Portuguese Formula 1 drivers' commute. (aka regular Portuguese drivers) Some were even racing semi trucks, though there were quite a few non Formula 1 qualifiers.

Most of the 8 km walk between Azinhaga and Golegã was on a narrow country road with no shoulder, although the thick weeds would have provided a cushioned but scratchy landing spot if I'd had to make a dive to safety.

20220512_095527.jpg

It was also nice to see that someone had gotten the word out to Portugal about Wall Drug in South Dakota, and that Marcher Arrant had been here. 😂

20220512_095559.jpg
 

Jeff Crawley

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A "Tourigrino" trip once Covid has passed, so 2023
I'm only walking 16 km to Vila Nova da Barquinha today so I took my time getting ready, and also had breakfast at the B&B where I spent the night.

I started on the Camino at 8:00, just in time for the famous Portuguese Formula 1 drivers' commute. (aka regular Portuguese drivers) Some were even racing semi trucks, though there were quite a few non Formula 1 qualifiers.

Most of the 8 km walk between Azinhaga and Golegã was on a narrow country road with no shoulder, although the thick weeds would have provided a cushioned but scratchy landing spot if I'd had to make a dive to safety.

View attachment 125015

It was also nice to see that someone had gotten the word out to Portugal about Wall Drug in South Dakota, and that Marcher Arrant had been here. 😂

View attachment 125017
What you don't want to see is a sign saying "Marcher Arrant died here - road kill"

Be safe (please!)
 

Levi

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Camino Frances 2015
VDLP 2016
Portuguese March 2017
Sanabres September 2017
Madrid September 2018
Trecile - it's not easy - I think this was the hardest Camino (for me) so far (out of seven). So you're in my thoughts. Keep on keeping on.
 
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trecile

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I'm now in Águeda - a few days south of Porto, and finally seeing quite a few pilgrims. Until just before Tomar I walked alone. I don't know if I just missed seeing other pilgrims because I may have been off the normal stages or just walking at different times of day. In Azinhaga I was the only guest at a very nice B&B. In Alvorge I stayed in a private room at Albergue O Lagareiro, but there was only one other pilgrim there that day, so he had the entire dorm to himself.

It seems that most other pilgrims are walking Brierly or Gronze stages. I created my own, and the only stage over 30 km was the one that I skipped into Santarém.

These are my Lisbon - Porto stages

Screenshot_20220519-145413_Sheets.jpg

I've stayed mostly in private rooms, with three nights in dorms. I found out that a friend from home is currently isolating for a week in Ponte de Lima after catching Covid on the Camino. Although there are a couple of albergues that I planned to stay in north of Porto I may try to find a private room option.

After a number of days when the temperatures were in the 30sC/90sF it cooled down a few days ago making the walking much nicer.

It's also been nice to have some company on the way. Today I walked a few hours with forum member @mike105 .
 

Fred2a

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Portuguès oct 2020
Hi Trecile,
It is so nice to follow your steps on your blog and to remember the time I walked it, last fall.
Once in Porto, you will be glad you started in Lisbon. It is going to be much busier then.
And you might regret those lonely walks !
But all in all the portuguese caminho is well balanced, between those introspective moments at the begining and the more social second part.
Bom caminho !
 

trecile

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Unfortunately it's now a Covid Camino for me 😢.

When I went to bed on Thursday night in Águeda my nose was rather stuffed up. After walking 29 km to my next destination - the wonderful Watermill Moinho Garcia albergue in Pinheiro da Bemposta I decided that I should use one of the Covid self tests that I had brought with me.

20220522_100312.jpg

I was hoping that I just had a cold, but that T line was undeniable.
Fortunately, I had booked a private room, so I kept my cooties contained.

I found an apartment in a nearby town of Estarreja to isolate in, and I walked here yesterday. Other than mild cold symptoms I just want to sleep - a lot. Last night I slept over 11 hours!

20220522_100838.jpg

I booked the apartment for four nights, then I'll retest and reevaluate. I had planned enough time to do the Camino Inglés after the Camino Portuguese, so I should have enough time to finish the Portuguese when I start walking again.
 
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Unfortunately it's now a Covid Camino for me 😢.

When I went to bed on Thursday night in Águeda my nose was rather stuffed up. After walking 29 km to my next destination - the wonderful Watermill Moinho Garcia albergue in Pinheiro da Bemposta I decided that I should use one of the Covid self tests that I had brought with me.

View attachment 126031

I was hoping that I just had a cold, but that T line was undeniable.
Fortunately, I had booked a private room, so I kept my cooties contained.

I found an apartment in a nearby town of Estarreja to isolate in, and I walked here yesterday. Other than mild cold symptoms I just want to sleep - a lot. Last night I slept over 11 hours!

View attachment 126032

I booked the apartment for four nights, then I'll retest and reevaluate. I had planned enough time to do the Camino Inglés after the Camino Portuguese, so I should have enough time to finish the Portuguese when I start walking again.
Oh dear, I do hope that you will be fine in the end. Count on being remembered, while it lasts. Well done on your wise choice of steps to contain your covid...
 
F

Former member 99290

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Oh @trecile I’m so sorry to read this. I’ve been lurking in the background reading about your camino so far. What a pain! Hope you have a speedy recovery.

Do you need a negative covid test when the time comes for your flight home? If so, I’d recommend getting an ‘offical’ test asap, if you haven’t already done so, to have official evidence of the date. Reason being that some people continue to test positive for weeks after, even though they are no longer contagious. By having documentation for the dates, most countries that require the negative test will accept you as ‘negative’ after xx days (the xx depending on that country’s rules) have passed and that will suffice for your return.

If you already know all this - or don’t need the test for return - please just ignore, except for my good wishes

Take care. And best wishes 🙏
Jenny
 

trecile

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Do you need a negative covid test when the time comes to return home? If so, I’d recommend getting an ‘offical’ test asap, if you haven’t already done so, to have official evidence of the date.
Yes, I plan on doing that. Yesterday I was too tired to make the effort, and I'm not sure if I can get one today (Sunday).
 
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Former member 99290

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Yes, I plan on doing that. Yesterday I was too tired to make the effort, and I'm not sure if I can get one today (Sunday).
In France when Domi wanted a confirmation test, it was done by a pharmacist who administered the test and gave the documentation immediately. Don’t know if same for Spain or finding a farmacia open on a Sunday. Hope so. Best wishes. 🙏
 

trecile

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In France when Domi wanted a confirmation test, it was done by a pharmacist who administered the test and gave the documentation immediately. Don’t know if same for Spain or finding a farmacia open on a Sunday. Hope so. Best wishes. 🙏
There's a pharmacy open today that's a 15 minute walk - if I have the energy.
BTW I'm still in Portugal.
 
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@trecile, I'm sorry to hear of this glitch in your Camino. At least your symptoms sound mild with the exception of unusual tiredness. I hope if you had pre-booked a majority of your lodging ahead of time that any change of plans will go smoothly. I see you as a very resilient gal and am sure you will turn this new lemon into some lemonade before you go home.
 
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henrythedog

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Yes, I plan on doing that. Yesterday I was too tired to make the effort, and I'm not sure if I can get one today (Sunday).
That might be a can of worms you don’t want to open. Whilst lateral flow tests are not as accurate as a PCR you only need to do a couple to get the statistical accuracy roughly equal. That works vs both false positives and false negatives. As you’re not rushing for a flight and have time to let things take their natural course, and your responsibly minimising contact, perhaps you don’t need an ‘official’ anything.

Anyway - hopefully you’ll just have mild symptoms and it’ll soon pass.
 
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Gaaah, what a bummer @trecile!
But it sounds like you have landed in a good place and are very wisely managing your situation. I hope you can get that official test today, and that you get well very soon!
Thinking of you, with heartfelt well-wishing.
 
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Bristle Boy

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Oh lawks-a-mercy. Laid low by the lurgy.
When it comes to responsible behaviour...you are my girl.
I have enjoyed following your journey and it's just a pause.
Keep well...then carry on carrying on.
 
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That might be a can of worms you don’t want to open.
Just for clarification, the ‘official’ confirmation test that pharmacist conducted in my husband’s case was a Rapid Antigen test - as was the self test he took 12 hours earlier. It was not a PCR test. Thé point I was trying to make is that if @trecile does have covid and has to take a test of some kind in order to board a flight to / re-enter her home country some time later - she may be one of the unlucky ones who still tests positive long after she is considered to be contagious. No doubt @trecile is doing the responsible thing avoiding others etc - the official test is more about managing the risk of not being able to board your flight home because you are still testing positive weeks after the event. The paperwork documenting the timing of her infection overcomes that, for most countries. It would be a nasty surprise to be two or three weeks down the track and still get a positive test result in the days before departure - and have no way of proving that you had a bout of Covid some weeks earlier.
 
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henrythedog

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Just for clarification, the ‘official’ confirmation test that pharmacist conducted in my husband’s case was a Rapid Antigen test - as was the self test he took 12 hours earlier. It was not a PCR test. Thé point I was trying to make is that if @trecile does have covid and has to take a test of some kind in order to board a flight to / re-enter her home country some time later - she may be one of the unlucky ones who still tests positive long after she is considered to be contagious. No doubt @trecile is doing the responsible thing avoiding others etc - the official test is more about managing the risk of not being able to board your flight home because you are still testing positive weeks after the event. The paperwork documenting the timing of her infection overcomes that, for most countries. It would be a nasty surprise to be two or three weeks down the track and still get a positive test result in the days before departure - and have no way of proving that you had a bout of Covid some weeks earlier.
Yes; sound advice.
 

mspath

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Wishing you a comfortable and speedy recovery. Glad that you have found a place to rest.
 

trecile

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I just wanted to mention that I debated whether or not I should write about having Covid on the Camino, but decided that it's important for others to know. I personally know several others who have caught Covid on the Camino.

One pilgrim who was in two dorms with me was sick before I was. He had taken a Covid test when he first had symptoms, and it was negative, but he didn't retest until I told him that I had Covid. He then tested positive.

Two weeks before I flew to Portugal I had a second booster shot. (I've had two Pfizer initial shots and two Moderna boosters) Other than being very tired my symptoms aren't that bad.

Other than three nights I stayed in private rooms.

I did let my guard down and was not as careful as I had been at home. At home I hadn't yet eaten at a restaurant indoors, and always wore a mask in indoor public spaces.
 
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