My walk from Sahagun to Ponferrada (July 2014)

[KinkyOne]

Hola, fellow pilgrims!

After walking Camino de Madrid (371,54kms) this year in end June/beginning July (you can read and see all about it here:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/finally-my-camino-de-madrid-june-2014.25354/)
I've continued my walk on CF from Sahagun to Ponferrada (176,39kms) and there turned left onto Camino de Invierno. I know that there isn't much undiscovered about this stretch and CF in general, but maybe some of the comments would be helpful to first-time pilgrims. Also I'm using this to have sort of a diary of my own which most probably wouldn't be written otherwise

I will use distances recorded by Endomondo GPS from distinctive points like Plaza Mayor, Iglesia, Bar, Albergue etc. and from there on, because I don't find distances measured roughly from end of one village to the entrance of the second village really accurate. GPS tracks will be added for each stage/day in .gpx file with some interesting or informative photos. At least I hope you'll find them this way I did my first CF three years ago and it was interesting what and where changed in the meantime. Mostly I've noticed new albergues & shops which I will also mention. Maybe I did some unusual overnight stops which I'll also explain why. Mostly I tried to avoid so-called »Brierley stops« (whose guidebook I personaly like) but there were more to it.

Hope you'll enjoy.


Ultreia!

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 18 (Tue, 08.07.2014)
SAHAGUN – CALZADA DEL COTO (5,00kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

After coming from desolated Camino de Madrid I was kind of worried of the crowds on CF but to my big surprise it wasn't so. Later on most of hospitaleros told me that this year is »mal« (=bad) regarding occupancy. Well, that was perfectly OK with me. After taking short stroll through Sahagun I returned to Arco San Benito and headed for Bercianos del Camino because three years ago I've walked from Sahagun on Via Romana through Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to Reliegos. But while walking towards Calzada del Coto I began to feel that I needed some more time to get over Camino de Madrid and also a friend of mine reported earlier this year of new municipal albergue in Calzada so I've made quick decision and went for Albergue San Roque in Calzada (photos618&620).

It was one of the last days of World Football Championship and in the evening an interesting match was on so knowing the rules of the municipal albergues I asked three hospitaleras voluntarias if it's possible to return later to the albergue. Much to my surprise that wasn't a problem so I definitely decided to stay there. Albergue is donativo, very clean, with 30 beds, nice bathrooms, but maybe lacking kitchen and some more outside communal space. There is kind of patio behind the building where washed clothes could be hanged (photo619) and the village park is in the near but what about in bad weather…

There is now a small shop with very nice lady owner on right hand of the main street (=Camino). Very good homemade chorizos and queso can be bought there!!! On the same street it's first bar and the second one a bit to the right into the center of Calzada close to the church (photos621&622).

In albergue I was with a young dead tired Argentinian couple and French pilgrim who was the first one to tell me about »empty« Camino all the way from St.Jean. After watching the football game (Germany defeated Brasil 7 to 1) one of the Spanish hospitaleras was waiting for me and we chatted about football and other things for another hour which was possible because by that time my Spanish improved that much

Lovely day!

 

[Olivares]

On June 29, 2014, I walked Sahagun to Reliegos via Calzada del Coto-Calzadilla de los Hermanillos-El Burgo Ranero-Reliegos. I saw a total of 6 pilgrims. Seriously.

Loved the route; did get nervous between Calzada and Calzadilla-- never saw one other person (saw deer!). Buen Camino!!

 

[KinkyOne]

On June 29, 2014, I walked Sahagun to Reliegos via Calzada del Coto-Calzadilla de los Hermanillos-El Burgo Ranero-Reliegos. I saw a total of 6 pilgrims. Seriously.

Loved the route; did get nervous between Calzada and Calzadilla-- never saw one other person (saw deer!). Buen Camino!!

Hi, Olivares!

Why did you went to El Burgo Ranero from Calzadilla??? Isn't it on tarmac almost all the way? In 2011 I went directly to Reliegos from Calzadilla, no problem with markings. You just have to turn left to Reliegos (which you don't see at that point) when Mansilla come to view. Lovely stretch. I haven't seen another pilgrim the whole day like everybody went via Bercianos, duh

 

[Olivares]

I wanted to go to El Burgo Ranero, I just did not have a better reason! . I thought about going straight towards Mansilla, but was a bit worried to missed the left turn. It was 4 kms to El Burgo from Calzadilla, beautiful walk along irrigation channels, no tarmac, no mud, I loved this stretch. Once at El Burgo Ranero, I stopped for lunch, and got on my way to Reliegos. Long day, but it was fantastic. Both Calzadilla and El Burgo Ranero were very pleasant towns. See attache attached pictures of the stretch Calzadilla- El Burgo Ranero. [/ATTACH] [/ATTACH]

 

[KinkyOne]

I wanted to go to El Burgo Ranero, I just did not have a better reason! . I thought about going straight towards Mansilla, but was a bit worried to missed the left turn. It was 4 kms to El Burgo from Calzadilla, beautiful walk along irrigation channels, no tarmac, no mud, I loved this stretch. Once at El Burgo Ranero, I stopped for lunch, and got on my way to Reliegos. Long day, but it was fantastic. Both Calzadilla and El Burgo Ranero were very pleasant towns. See attache attached pictures of the stretch Calzadilla- El Burgo Ranero. [/ATTACH] View attachment 13527 [/ATTACH] View attachment 13528 View attachment 13529

Thanks for those photos. I think I'll take this option when again on that stretch of CF. With overnight stay in El Burgo Ranero which seems like nice village to me...

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 19 (Wed, 09.07.2014)
CALZADA DEL COTO - RELIEGOS (28,99kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Too bad that in the morning hospitaleras weren't so kind as were in the evening but they allowed me to leave albergue at 9 Nice ladies, two of them sisters and their friend, all of them already walked CF. I left some donativo € in the box and went through the village being sure that I will go to Calzadilla. But on the outskirt there's an option to go left toward Bercianos. That was new to me and immediately I made up my mind. And wasn't sorry. Because after 6,5kms on easy senda (first go over the A-231 and later under it, all clearly marked – photos627,629&630) I stopped at first bar, Casa del Peregrino, in Bercianos del Real Camino (photo634).

I sat there for few minutes drinking cold beer and had an impression that bartender and one Spanish peregrina mentioned Slovenia and Croatia (both republics of ex-Yugoslavia and I'm from Slovenia). A bit later I asked bar tender if I've heard it right. Much to my surprise he told me that he's from Croatian coastal town of Poreč where I've lived with my parents because of my father's work in early 70's. He was also our landlords older son's best friend (sad story about that boy because he was »returned« to his parents in sealed coffin when serving National Army…). But the surprises weren't over. The Spanish peregrina originally from Barcelona is actually married to Slovenian guy and is living only about 50kms from my hometown

And I was stucked there for three hours first talking with peregrina (Patricia) in mix of Slovenian/Spanish/English and later with bar owner named Franko in Croatian. On my first complete CF day I've met two people I felt so close to. All this after only 6 peregrinos hat I've met on Camino de Madrid. Unbelievable!!! Franko (photo635) is three times Camino veteran. On first Camino he split up with his former wife, on the second he met her Spanish wife (from Valencia) and on the third they decided that they both wanted to live on the Camino. They bought a rundown house, renovated it, opened a bar, got a son and now thinking of adding few beds to their bar. That's it, lovely story!

By then I was quite late but the day was really nice (photos637&641) and after 8,5kms I arrived to El Burgo Ranero. Stopped in bar/hostal/albergue across the street from municipal albergue. While I was watching pilgrims hanging their clothes and resting I was tempted to stop for the day. But I've had very nice memories of Reliegos from 2011 so I went on.

14kms more and at 8PM I finally arrived to Reliegos. On entering the village there is first albergue (I think the owner is the same as of the bar I was drinking at in El Burgo Ranero – Piedras Blancas???) and a little bit later on the left there is now a little tienda with very kind lady owner which told me to return later (after finding a bed for the night) and just ring a bell. Of course I had to stop at Elvis again (photos650&651), got some cold beer & orujo blanco with tapa queso y jamon with freshly baked bread. Yummy…

When I came to municipal albergue in which I've stayed in 2011 there was no one. Since there was a football game again that evening I went to Albergue La Parada around the corner (photo656 – in next post) and got the bed in a room with four male Koreans (found that later). After shower I ran for the tienda, bought some beer and food and enjoyed beautiful sunset at school building (photos652,653&655 – in next post). The village looked like deserted to me so I returned to La Parada and watched football match started at 10PM in their bar. Nice company of villagers and one pilgrim from Switzerland (deliberately sleeping outside all of the nights) so you could imagine what it was like.

Well, it was one very nice day. Maybe the nicest

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 19 (Wed, 09.07.2014)
CALZADA DEL COTO - RELIEGOS (28,99kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Photos for the previous post...

 

[norelle]

I too stopped at Franco's Bar in Bercianos (in April) and remember their camino story....... and their hospitality!

 

[KinkyOne]

I too stopped at Franco's Bar in Bercianos (in April) and remember their camino story....... and their hospitality!

Very nice people indeed. Not because I'm kind of connected to Franko, but really

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 20 (Thu, 10.07.2014)
RELIEGOS – LEON (27,65kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Huh, tough evening. And late morning… But it was Leon ahead and tomorrow rest day

Nothing much to say about Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas. I've stopped at Albergue El Jardin del Camino (6kms) on entering the town (photos657&658). Even if you don't sleep here, they have one of the widest choice of jamon I've seen on CF!!!

Maybe next time I should stay in Mansilla, but for the second time this town didn't seem very interesting to me. But, well, you know…, that's just me… From Mansilla to Puente de Villarente is 6,8kms of hardly interesting way. It's along N-601 on its left side. At least not on tarmac. In Villarente there's a new pasarela for pilgrims and other walkers now (photos663,662&664). I remember three years ago walking over the bridge with all those cars and trucks, crazy… But then I didn't noticed nice resting area left below the bridge. This year I've stopped there, sat on the bench in the shade, drank a beer, have a picnic lunch and just enjoyed the spot. I guess because on outskirt of the town some nice graffiti were made (photos665&666) there and not somewhere else.

Nothing much to say about 5,2kms until Arcahueja where very friendly bar/albergue La Torre is (left at Plaza and right after the church). It was here the first time that they gave me two tapas per one beer (photos669&670). Not to mention that I have had very nice memories from my first Camino but let's not get into that

It was another 9,6kms to Leon's cathedral. Well known way, most of it on tarmac or even concrete (photos673&676 – in next post), but Leon is Leon. I've made reservation in Albergue Unamuno, because I wanted to stay in the town for an off-walking day. It was the first time for me in Unamuno and I can only recommend it. I mean, it's nothing special, but for 10€/night and its location, it's unbeatable! (photos677&678 – in next post). I've met some interesting people in albergue but unfortunately all of them went on the next day. And I was really enjoying that day walking around in flip-flops and just soaking up the vibe (photos685,679,684,685,680&686 – in next post).

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 20 (Thu, 10.07.2014)
RELIEGOS – LEON (27,65kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Photos for the previous post...

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 21 (Sat, 12.07.2014)
LEON – VILAR DE MAZARIFE (22,98kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Another sunny day and although first 8,2kms to La Virgen del Camino is quite dull it felt like I was flying (photo692). I stopped for one beer in La Virgen and decided to take left option towards Vilar de Mazarife. In 2011 I went to San Martin del Camino which was OK and I was also very pleased with Albergue Santa Ana.

Soon after La Virgen there's a bar in Fresno del Camino. Half an hour later I came to Oncina de la Valdoncina (4kms from La Virgen) where there was fruits and bebidas stand at entrance and nice resting area on exit (photos693&694). A little before village plaza on the right there was an old quite well preserved big house for sale. But silly me didn't take any photo Under impression of Franko's story in Bercianos I was daydreaming for another beautiful 6,2kms stretch to Chozas de Abajo (photo695&696). Few meters before the village a female pilgrim was coming in opposite direction. After long eye contact we both stopped, smiled and hugged each other without words. Uhhhhh, what a moment. I enter the village with tears in my eyes…

Two ice cold beers in the shade of the only bar/restaurant there, trying to understand what the Koreans were laughing at, amused with talkative Italians, observing proud Spanish fathers coming to the bar with their elementary school sons etc. Nice and slow spanish afternoon

But there was another 4,5kms stretch to Vilar de Mazarife. The path runs parallel to asphalt Camino Leon (photo699) and because it was partly overgrown I've had to walk half of the distance on asphalt. Which I don't like. All those faded away when I came to family run Albergue Paraiso de Jesus lefthand immediately after entering the village (photos702&703). Very relaxed atmosphere which can be a little bit annoying later in the evening for some early risers.

Because trying to be considerate to other pilgrims on account of my snoring I've mentioned that to lovely daughter of the owners and she assigned me a room of my own (photo704 – in next post) Albergue is quite different from others on CF and I liked it very much. It has its own charm which can be clearly seen in the way it is restored, how it is furnished, patio with swimming pool and especially of the family which runs it attitude (photos705-708 – in next post).

After shower and some insights in my diary I went to the center of Vilar where are few bars and two markets opposite of each other at the plaza. Both opened on Saturday which was very nice. Also two more albergues there. When I returned to the albergue it was soon the time for football match. But even for me this bunch of villagers with kids and all were a bit too much. I mean it could be loud when entusiastas are watching a football match in a bar, but those villagers really were much much louder than us. I fell asleep at 1AM and they were still there

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 21 (Sat, 12.07.2014)
LEON – VILAR DE MAZARIFE (22,98kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Photos for previous post...

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 22 (Sun, 13.07.2014)
VILAR DE MAZARIFE – SAN JUSTO DE LA VEGA (30,32kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

After I fell asleep I haven't hear partying villagers anymore. That's because usually my sleep is very firm and calm. And when I woke up at 8AM the albergue was empty of pilgs. Everybody has gone, duh… An hour later I followed them.

First 7,5kms (approx.) to La Milla del Paramo on the right (and San Martino del Camino further on to the right) is on tarmac and completely straight road which was rarely used on that Sunday morning. Camino actually pass La Milla but I guess if in distress you can get some help there. There's 3,5kms more on light gravel country road to Villavante, where I stopped for a beer at Albergue Santa Lucia (photos709&710). Later I've discovered that there are at least two more bars in the village and was kind of sorry I didn't dispersed my money among them. If you don't feel like stop in Villarente just proceed straight on with village on your right side and save 0,5 kms. I didn't see any shop there but may be though.

Camino after Villarente and all the way to Hospital de Orbigo (5,2kms) runs through fields and along the railroad for some time (photo711-713), with Casa Rural to the right and is very nice. After crossing AP-71 there's a real mess of arrows (photo714) but easy to find the way to Puente over Rio Orbigo (photos715&717). Before that option from San Martin del Camino joins from the right.

In Hospital I've found kiosko on the main street (a little bit further from the church on the left hand side) opened on Sunday! I love Spain, hahaha. I enjoyed cold Mahou and watching people coming from the church, all dressed up while I was drying my socks and boots right there on the bench. Not one cross look I got, just Hola!'s & Buen Camino!'s. I love Spain

Getting out of Hospital de Orbigo is easy and is now marked much clearer than three years ago. At the end you can go left by the road almost directly to San Justo or veer right towards Villares de Orbigo. I've got a very special guest on that 2,7kms stretch (photo719) but she was biting me after some time so with a gentle blow we »broke up« In Villares is a private albergue now with a bar as it looked like to me (photos721 – in next post). Also there's new private albergue after 2,8kms in Santibañez de Valdeiglesia (photo724 – in next post) across the street of former Centro Social and on the Camino itself. I stopped there for a beer and while sitting on the stairs of former Centro Social where a very elementary bar was situated three years ago I saw half of the pilgrims went to new albergue and approximately half to the old parrochial one. I've found that nice! But was also sorry for the former bar…

Again leaving Santibañez is easy. The village was deserted and the Camino (8,5kms) to San Justo as beautiful as it was in 2011 (photos726,728,731,733&734 – in next post). I really enjoyed that stretch three years ago and this year the same. It reminds me of the countryside near the »Franko from Bercianos« hometown of Poreč in Croatia. I was only a stone's throw away from Albergue Amanecer but I wanted to soak up the late afternoon light at Santo Toribio Cruceiro and so I did. For one whole hour, just sitting there and … well, I guess you all know those moments (photo736 – in next post).

When I descended to San Justo de la Vega a very nice and dedicated young man named German was already waiting for me. As he told me he's running this donativo albergue in a rented house on the main street because of all the good things and people he encountered on his Camino. Lovely conversation although he can barely speaks any English. I was the only one in a room with four mattresses on the first floor. Kitchen (possibility of communal donativo dinner), dinning room (photo741 – in next post) and bathroom (with cold water in the time of my stay, but maybe I didn't know how to put the boiler on???) are on the ground floor.

On the main street are two more albergues, both on left side. First is »Spain&Brasil Albergue« and second one is within Hostal Juli at 6€ in dormitory. It's across the street from Amanecer and that was the place where I went for the World Football Championship Final to watch. There I've met a German pilgrim named Dieter who was doing his Camino for the third year with his donkey Anton and a carriage. As I remember he started almost 3000kms long Camino in Tübingen (???) and every year he walked 1000kms. This year it was the final stretch for him and his second donkey.

It was really colourful company for the Finals: me, Dieter, Juli the bar owner and her demented mother, completely drunk villager and that was it (photos739&740 – in second next post).

Unforgettable!

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 22 (Sun, 13.07.2014)
VILAR DE MAZARIFE – SAN JUSTO DE LA VEGA (30,32kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Photos for previous post...

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 22 (Sun, 13.07.2014)
VILAR DE MAZARIFE – SAN JUSTO DE LA VEGA (30,32kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Photos for previous previous post...

 

[Alyssa]

I wanted to go to El Burgo Ranero, I just did not have a better reason! . I thought about going straight towards Mansilla, but was a bit worried to missed the left turn. It was 4 kms to El Burgo from Calzadilla, beautiful walk along irrigation channels, no tarmac, no mud, I loved this stretch. Once at El Burgo Ranero, I stopped for lunch, and got on my way to Reliegos. Long day, but it was fantastic. Both Calzadilla and El Burgo Ranero were very pleasant towns. See attache attached pictures of the stretch Calzadilla- El Burgo Ranero. [/ATTACH] View attachment 13527 [/ATTACH] View attachment 13528 View attachment 13529

Wow, I really blew it on this stretch. For some reason I went to El Burgo Ranero along the tarmac and it was a miserable unattractive walk. I need to pay more attention next time.

 

[Olivares]

Wow, I really blew it on this stretch. For some reason I went to El Burgo Ranero along the tarmac and it was a miserable unattractive walk. I need to pay more attention next time.

Alyssa-- I stopped over the Albergue to take a look at their maps and was fortunate that a kind Brazilian Hospitalero at Calzadilla de los Hermanillos took the time to take me to the spot where the Camino forked in three different directions; the trail to the left headed down towards Bercianos, the trail in the middle towards El Burgo Ranero, and the trail to the right straight out to Mansillas. If you follow the Calle Mayor in Calzadilla you will see the fork on the road I am talking about. I came up the Barrio Estacion section of El Burgo Ranero and had to crossed the train track (there is a crossover area), but from Calzadilla it was only 4 kms distance. Once at El Burgo I thought I was going to meet up with more pilgrims, but it was not the case. I was surprised how few people were on the Camino that day. Skipping the Meseta is a huge, huge mistake if you ask me. I went on to Reliegos, but regretted not staying at El Burgo Ranero, really liked the town.

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 23 (Mon, 14.07.2014)
SAN JUSTO DE LA VEGA – EL GANSO (18,74kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

In the morning the house was deserted and unlocked. I think German went for some of his many part time jobs so I prepared myself, put some donativo € in the box and I was off to Astorga. Before Astorga I was surprised by the overpass which I don't remember was there in 2011 (photo742). Many pilgrims on that stretch this day and even more passing Plaza Catedral where I've made a short break after 4,6kms from San Justo. Apart from us pilgrims the streets of Astorga wasn't yet really alive (photos744&745). I found the Alimerka market and Tabaccos (think they are both on c/Doctorado) and just enjoyed on the sun in front of Palacio Episcopal and Cathedral. First time this year I was seeing pilgrims tending their wounds. Strange scene since I haven't seen much of them at all from Madrid onwards…

Getting out of Astorga I was interested to at least one of its inhabitants (photo748) After 5kms I was in Murias de Rechivaldo and was surprised to find Bar Llar closed… After that is one of the nicest stretches of Camino for my taste, 4,6kms to Santa Catalina de Somoza (photos753&755). There I've met Dieter the German again and waited for him in the village where he was an attraction to other pilgrims (photos757&758).

In front of Albergue/Bar/Restaurant El Caminante I've had few beers with Dieter who decided to stop for the day because the donkey Anton was tired. He was on antibiotics and very sensitive for the heat. I learned the things I know about him and also chatted with a Dutch lady just started walking that day from Astorga with her two sons and their girlfriends. My plan was to push to Rabanal that day to revive nice memories from three years ago when I've stayed at municipal albergue. So I left Dieter and the Dutch family chatting.

Afternoon heat and a beer too many at Sta.Catalina took its toll and after 4,3kms I stopped at new tienda in El Ganso. The owner is Gabino's (he runs albergue there) wife and in the same house she offers private rooms also. I bought myself cold beer, sat in the shade and a bit later nice Korean lady Hae Jung (divorced math teacher in international school in China) started conversation. We've met several times over past days and just nodded to each other and now was a chance to talk. We talked and talked and in the end she persuaded me that it is too late to push on to Rabanal. So I decided to stay at Albergue Gabino and got one of the last two beds. A bit later Hungarian guy joined us. He was also traveling with a donkey which was left at Foncebadon for mating

After few more beers and tapas I went to the albergue, took a shower and went for a stroll (photos759-761,763&765 – in next post). Later few of us cooked late communal dinner and had really nice evening.

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 23 (Mon, 14.07.2014)
SAN JUSTO DE LA VEGA – EL GANSO (18,74kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Photos for previous post...

 

[Olivares]

Kinky-- Photo 759-- the bar immediately to the left served the best breakfast I had on the Camino. Afterwards, on my way out, the lady tending the kitchen came out and handed me a plastic bag and pointed to a huge basket of the sweetest cherries I ever had! I filled the bag for 1 Euro and ate cherries for 3 days. Sweet memories.

 

[KinkyOne]

Kinky-- Photo 759-- the bar immediately to the left served the best breakfast I had on the Camino. Afterwards, on my way out, the lady tending the kitchen came out and handed me a plastic bag and pointed to a huge basket of the sweetest cherries I ever had! I filled the bag for 1 Euro and ate cherries for 3 days. Sweet memories.

I agree, that lady was really nice although I didn't go there for breakfast but was there at evening. She was already doing the cleaning of the place but nevertheless she took few minutes of her time to serve me a drink and spoke some words about pilgrim numbers and decaying business. When she was watering flowers in the patio (actually that's the back entrance as seen in photo) I helped her with heavy buckets full of water and was awarded with another beer and half a loaf of home baked bread. I tell you, so many beautiful encounters on my Camino this year that I simply can't extract top5 of them. And they are not over by far in my diary

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 24 (Tue, 15.07.2014)
EL GANSO – EL ACEBO (25,80kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Again I was the last one to leave the albergue and until 9AM I've seen a lot of pilgrims started in Sta.Catalina passing by and also one Madrileño that started in Astorga. But that was because he came on the bus from Madrid in the middle of the night and just started walking. Before he told me that I couldn't believe I've heard it right

Another hot and sunny day and the walk was superb (photo767). After 7kms I stopped in Rabanal del Camino for short rest. Now there are already three tiendas whereas in 2011 was only one. Didn't went down to LE-142 and municipal albergue. I was thinking to myself that this is different Camino in comparison with the one three years ago and I shouldn't stick to memories too much to be able to gain new experiences. Kind of sad moment when I decided this because I have really fond memories of that albergue, its hospitalera and particular group of pilgrims back then.

I never did really understand guidebooks warnings and pilgrims fear of that uphill to Foncebadon and Cruz de Ferro. It's 6,5kms of nice not all the way steep walk and nothing to be compared with crossing the Pyrenees or some uphills on Camino de Invierno. Also the flowers are like those on ascent to Alto del Perdon after Pamplona (photos768&769). Very nice!

In Foncebadon Taberna de Gaia was closed so I've made a stop at Albergue Monte Irago which also have small tienda. Soon already mentioned Hungarian guy joined me. He didn't liked Sta.Catalina and returned to Foncebadon and his donkey Rosinante in the night. And at the moment he was helping Rosinante mating with Pili using medical rubber gloves There is now new albergue La Posada del Druida and one more tienda in Foncebadon.

At Cruz de Ferro I left two stones for my parents. Touchy moment (photos772&773). My paternal grandmother passed away in January this year aged 93 and I also brought her cheap silver-looked necklace that she liked very much. But once at Cruz de Ferro I couldn't find it. I knew where it was all the time but it has simply gone… I didn't feel any sadness or anger so I figured that it should be that way and I doubt my grandmother would object to that. After all it's the intent that counts, right

4,8kms from Foncebadon is famous Manjarin. Hungarian guy told me that now there's another informal albergue or more like some kind of open house in which people living there do admit pilgrims (photo778). I did a short stop at older albergue (photo779) mostly to ask about Tomas. His friend told me that he's still in Ponferrada resting after being in the hospital due to heart and blood vessels problems. But he is coming for visit here and there so I guess he's getting much better.

Camino towards El Acebo is easy for a while (photo780) but that descend to the village is a killer for my knees. I was wasted when came to the tienda on entrance. Cold beer and knee compresses soaked in cold water from nearby fountain put it all back in order. There was a guy recommending new albergue on the other side of the village but I decided to stay at Meson El Acebo's Taberna de Jose, as in 2011, which was closed unfortunatelly due to low number of pilgrims. We were 11 pilgrims altogether that night in the house. So I've stayed in their main house and enjoyed back patio as well as dinner in lovely dining room (photos781-784 – in next post).

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 24 (Tue, 15.07.2014)
EL GANSO – EL ACEBO (25,80kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Few more photos for previous post...

 

[Theatregal]

DAY 22 (Sun, 13.07.2014)
VILAR DE MAZARIFE – SAN JUSTO DE LA VEGA (30,32kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

Photos for previous post...

Hi KinkyOne ~ So great reading these posts - bringing back lots of great memories. That mannequin changes his clothes often! This is how he looked the day I passed by. And David's place. Had such a nice hour visiting there.

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi KinkyOne ~ So great reading these posts - bringing back lots of great memories. That mannequin changes his clothes often! This is how he looked the day I passed by. And David's place. Had such a nice hour visiting there.

True. Someone has a lot of fun with this mannequin
It was quite late when I came to David's place and he was also sleeping right then so I just went on . I like that stretch very much and it was great to be all by myself!

 

[peregrina2000]

Kinky, you should have taken that Peñalba de Santiago detour instead of just taking a picture of the turn-off. Two days to Ponferrada from El Acebo through some of the most beautiful places in Spain. No crowds, just mountains. Or even better Peñalba de Santiago to As Médulas. I´m already bugging Rebekah to get it on her calendar for next year.

The new albergue in El Acebo that you mention looks like a four star hotel, swimming pool and huge poles with flags of the world waving. If anyone has stayed there, I´d love to hear what it´s like. Thanks for all these pictures and updates! Laurie

and p.s. the Mesón el Acebo is a locally owned family run place. A new generation just took over last year. I would rank it right up there with La Trucha as the best places to stay in El Acebo.

 

[KinkyOne]

Kinky, you should have taken that Peñalba de Santiago detour instead of just taking a picture of the turn-off. Two days to Ponferrada from El Acebo through some of the most beautiful places in Spain. No crowds, just mountains. Or even better Peñalba de Santiago to As Médulas. I´m already bugging Rebekah to get it on her calendar for next year.

The new albergue in El Acebo that you mention looks like a four star hotel, swimming pool and huge poles with flags of the world waving. If anyone has stayed there, I´d love to hear what it´s like. Thanks for all these pictures and updates! Laurie

and p.s. the Mesón el Acebo is a locally owned family run place. A new generation just took over last year. I would rank it right up there with La Trucha as the best places to stay in El Acebo.

Hi, Laurie!

I took that photo of turn-off to Penalba exactly because I remembered your posts about walking the trail with Rebekah. It seemed strange to me that it was on the ground though...? But on the other hand that photo was kind of planted in my post to check if you really read and watch all content For not taking it to Penalba I can only say that I wanted to do Invierno from start to the end, without major detours etc. I'm sure I'll have enough time in my life to do it on some other occasion.
I remember all those flags on the other end of El Acebo when descending to the village and only after this guy tried to persuade me to stay there I realized what that was all about. I didn't go to the spot the same day, but in the morning I took a photo (attached) and later checked it on internet. It really seems quite luxurious with new furnishing, the pool and especially the view over Ponferrada valley.
It is 10€ in new albergue La Casa del Peregrino and Meson was 5€. For the difference in prices I've got half of the dinner... I remember surprised faces of young couple (owners - the girl does speaks English quite well) when I mentioned that I really do wish to sleep in Taberna. And after my explanation they sincerely apologized it was closed.
Anyway, El Acebo is one of the nicest spots on CF for me and I know I'll return

Ultreia!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Laurie!

I took that photo of turn-off to Penalba exactly because I remembered your posts about walking the trail with Rebekah. It seemed strange to me that it was on the ground though...? But on the other hand that photo was kind of planted in my post to check if you really read and watch all content For not taking it to Penalba I can only say that I wanted to do Invierno from start to the end, without major detours etc. I'm sure I'll have enough time in my life to do it on some other occasion.
I remember all those flags on the other end of El Acebo when descending to the village and only after this guy tried to persuade me to stay there I realized what that was all about. I didn't go to the spot the same day, but in the morning I took a photo (attached) and later checked it on internet. It really seems quite luxurious with new furnishing, the pool and especially the view over Ponferrada valley.
It is 10€ in new albergue La Casa del Peregrino and Meson was 5€. For the difference in prices I've got half of the dinner... I remember surprised faces of young couple (owners - the girl does speaks English quite well) when I mentioned that I really do wish to sleep in Taberna. And after my explanation they sincerely apologized it was closed.
Anyway, El Acebo is one of the nicest spots on CF for me and I know I'll return

Ultreia!

Whew, glad I passed the test! I think the Mirada Circular is different from the circle than Reb and I took, though, because San Facundo is well northeast of El Acebo, and El Acebo was as far east as we got. But in any event, some day the Mirada Circular will be on my list too!

So, Kinky are you saying that the Mesón El Acebo´s albergue is permanently closed? That would be very sad, because they are such good people, and it´s been there for such a long time and took care of pilgrims before all the flash and flags of the new place. Well, that´s competition and the market, I suppose. I assume the Mesón itself is still going strong?

 

[KinkyOne]

Whew, glad I passed the test! I think the Mirada Circular is different from the circle than Reb and I took, though, because San Facundo is well northeast of El Acebo, and El Acebo was as far east as we got. But in any event, some day the Mirada Circular will be on my list too!

So, Kinky are you saying that the Mesón El Acebo´s albergue is permanently closed? That would be very sad, because they are such good people, and it´s been there for such a long time and took care of pilgrims before all the flash and flags of the new place. Well, that´s competition and the market, I suppose. I assume the Mesón itself is still going strong?

Hi, Laurie,

Meson El Acebo is not closed at all! Their overflow Taberna de Jose (see my attached photos from 2011) was closed this year due to lower numbers of pilgrims and possibly also because of the new albergue... In the dormitory of their main house there were 10 bunks if I remember correctly and we were only 11 the night I've slept there.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Kinky, I don´t mean to hijack your thread, but your picture of the Mirada Circular sign piqued my curiosity, and now I have it figured out, thanks to google and the internet. The Mirada Circular was originally a development project started at the University of León. Its goal was to encourage rural development and tourism in the Bierzo, and they made a circular path going all around the perimeter of the Bierzo. You can see a picture here. http://www.elbierzorural.es/rutas-y-senderos.html

It´s actually a series of 15 trails that all connect into a circle. Since Reb and I started in Ponferrada, you can see that only one of our legs was actually on the Mirada Circular, and that was the amazing stretch between El Acebo and Peñalba, which is Stage 1 of the Mirada Circular. The sign you pictured shows that in El Acebo, if we wanted to stay on the Mirada Circular, we´d have to continue on to San Facundo.

Since most of the links to the information on the Mirada Circular are dead, I am going to hazard the opinion that this economic development project has been abandoned, and that what remains are a few signs, some of which are now on the ground as your picture shows.

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi, Kinky, I don´t mean to hijack your thread, but your picture of the Mirada Circular sign piqued my curiosity, and now I have it figured out, thanks to google and the internet. The Mirada Circular was originally a development project started at the University of León. Its goal was to encourage rural development and tourism in the Bierzo, and they made a circular path going all around the perimeter of the Bierzo. You can see a picture here. http://www.elbierzorural.es/rutas-y-senderos.html

It´s actually a series of 15 trails that all connect into a circle. Since Reb and I started in Ponferrada, you can see that only one of our legs was actually on the Mirada Circular, and that was the amazing stretch between El Acebo and Peñalba, which is Stage 1 of the Mirada Circular. The sign you pictured shows that in El Acebo, if we wanted to stay on the Mirada Circular, we´d have to continue on to San Facundo.

Since most of the links to the information on the Mirada Circular are dead, I am going to hazard the opinion that this economic development project has been abandoned, and that what remains are a few signs, some of which are now on the ground as your picture shows.

Obviously the links to the maps are down (some chinese or such signs instead), but this video is still working. It's 19mins long:
http://www.rtve.es/alacarta/videos/la-aventura-del-saber/aventura-del-saber-mirada-circular/1260141/

 

[KinkyOne]

@peregrina2000
Some links are still working, like these:
http://www.elbierzorural.es/camino-de-santiago.html (mentioned Camino Olvidado)
http://www.elbierzorural.es/ski.html
http://www.elbierzorural.es/gastronomia.html

 

[Alyssa]

Alyssa-- I stopped over the Albergue to take a look at their maps and was fortunate that a kind Brazilian Hospitalero at Calzadilla de los Hermanillos took the time to take me to the spot where the Camino forked in three different directions; the trail to the left headed down towards Bercianos, the trail in the middle towards El Burgo Ranero, and the trail to the right straight out to Mansillas.

If you follow the Calle Mayor in Calzadilla you will see the fork on the road I am talking about. I came up the Barrio Estacion section of El Burgo Ranero and had to crossed the train track (there is a crossover area), but from Calzadilla it was only 4 kms distance. Once at El Burgo I thought I was going to meet up with more pilgrims, but it was not the case. I was surprised how few people were on the Camino that day. Skipping the Meseta is a huge, huge mistake if you ask me. I went on to Reliegos, but regretted not staying at El Burgo Ranero, really liked the town.

I went back to my photos, then mapped my route that day and now I remember what happened. I had read a blog post from another forum member about how horrible his day on the Calzada Romana was. As a result, when I arrived Calzada del Coto, I decided to take the "tree-lined" alternative route through Bercianos, a decision that in hindsight I regret. Unlike you, I did stay in El Burgo Ranero, a town I didn't love, although I stayed at the Albergue Laguna, which has a beautiful lawn, lawn chairs and sun shades. El Burgo was so full of pilgrims when I arrived at 1PM that there was a huge line of people out the door of the albergue municipale. (To be fair, part of why I was unhappy there was that I had become separated from my core group of friends, who were a day ahead of me. I remedied that the next day by walking all the way from El Burgo to central León and catching up with them. However, I left El Burgo long before sunrise since I knew it would be a long, hot day [almost 25 mi] and left on a paved road; looking at maps, it looks like I could have done it off-road..?)

 

[Lynda t]

Thank you for the wonderful memories. David was there in 2010. A life saver.

 

[KinkyOne]

DAY 25 (Wed, 16.07.2014)
EL ACEBO - PONFERRADA (16,91kms)
https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/user/16690154

What should have been very nice day (end of CF and beginning of Camino de Invierno) turned into almost a week long nightmare. Bedbugs. I don't want to point my finger but either I carried some of those nasty creatures from Albergue El Gabino in El Ganso or I got biten in Meson El Acebo. I woke up during the night because something was going on with my right elbow but then I was only capable to think that I've rubbed it against the wall and fell asleep till morning. Later I thought I was biten by mosquitos but after descend through Riego de Ambros I stopped at Meson El Jardin de Anduriña (photo787) and more bites appeared on the back of my left shin. Three in a row was the pattern. And I immediately knew what has happened. Even the most expensive half a liter of beer (in plastic glass – 4€) didn't really disturbed me because I had to make a plan.

After 8,7kms I was in Molinaseca (photos791&792). On this really warm and nice sunny day some pilgrims were enjoying in Rio Meruelo. I, already very pissed off, took a short break and decided to stop in Ponferrada and get a room in a pension I knew from three years ago. Back then I went through Castro (left turn after approx.4kms from Molinaseca) and would do the same this time to avoid the city and simply continuing on to Camino de Invierno but instead I went to the right on the tarmac (photo793). 7kms to Albergue Municipal. Very close to it in a street to the right I've seen markers for new albergue.

I went over the Rio Sil (photos794,796,797&800), which I would be seeing a lot over next few days on Invierno, and found the pension. I bought a repellent spray they've told me was good and paid for all my clothes and sleeping bag to be washed at the pension. Then I sprayed my backpack, boots, everything, even my walking poles… and I felt so stupid sitting in my room (without a view) completely naked and just waiting…

Well that was it on CF for me this year.

 

[Olivares]

As a result, when I arrived Calzada del Coto, I decided to take the "tree-lined" alternative route through Bercianos,...........

I did talked to another pilgrim that told me about at route; he hated it , too. I do recalled the tree-lined straight line from Reliegos and that was dull....I love to go back to the maps and recreating the route!

 

[KinkyOne]

Forgot to mention that I'm continuing posting about my 2014 walk in Camino de Invierno section:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-camino-de-invierno-july-2014.25355/

Ultreia!