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Myths of the Camino...

While I was last in Santiago (working as a volunteer in the Albergue Fin del Camino) I encountered some strange myths which appeared to have been passed on and grown in the telling on the Camino. I thought that this might be a thread where these can be raised and discussed/dispelled.

Myth 1: there is a municipal albergue in the centre of Santiago with about 500 beds.
This is one I have heard from a number of peregrinos who were looking for this albergue. Now, maybe there is an albergue in the centre with 500 beds. If there is, I certainly haven't heard of it and I've been coming to Santiago for every year since 2008. In fact, I can't even think of a hotel in Santiago large enough to have 500 beds. I met one girl at the peregrino office who was looking for this. I told her that she must have been thinking of Monte Gozo, which is not in Santiago, but on the way into Santiago (and a bit hard to miss). More distrubingly, while Camino Bob and I were walking back from a lovely meal after midnight, we ran into a peregrino on the Rua San Pedro who was looking for this albergue. He at least had a pen drawn map. When I looked at it, I realised that he was talking about the donativo albergue in the San Francisco monastry (which has a very limited number of places (maybe 40) and closes at 10pm (or so I was told)). I explained that the place on his map would, in all likelyhood, be closed when he got there. I felt quite sorry for someone arriving at such a late hour in Santiago trying to find a place to stay. I knew that we had places at the Albergue Fin del Camino, but we met him long after the Albergue locked its doors. We can take 110 people and are run by the Fundación Ad Sanctum Iacobum Peregrinatio. This isn't municpial, but it is connected with the Cathedral (as far as I can gather).

Myth 2: The botafumero comes out on every Sunday....
I've heard several variations of this, which include the last Sunday of every month, etc. I remember standing in the pilgrims mass next to someone who had walked from Holland and deliberately waited until Sunday morning to line up and get his credenical so that he could attend the Sunday morning mass and watch the botofumero..... which of course didn't come out. I did point out to the guy that the fact that the botafumero wasn't sitting there attached to a rope wasn't a good sign. He still believed up until the last minute that it was going to be brough in. The botafumero can be booked to appear by organisations, but this has to be organised well in advance via the oficina de peregrino. There is a cost for this depending on what type of organisation you are. The botofumero also comes out on certain feast days, but I can't remember what these are. I'm sure that there is some other strand on this forum that will answer this. Again, I felt sorry for the poor Ducth guy who actually waited around only to find out that he had bought into one of the myths of the Camino.

I've love to hear if this 500 bed albergue does exist (because I'm wondering how I have missed it) and what the guarenteed feast day appearances for the botafumero are. I'd also like to hear of other myths. While some of these are clearly part of the charm of the Camino, I do feel sorry for how some people have been affected.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Great Camino myths. The menu de Peregrino was better in the other place. The German association Albergues are better organised. No-one walks the meseta. If your coach stops at the wine fountain it's ok to fill a few litre bottles. Pamplona only exists during St Fermin. If you can hear the wind turbines on Alto de Perdon you are nearly at the top. Wrinkly old veterans know better...
 
Isn't there a list of days on the Cathedral website when the botafumeiro makes an appearance?

I was there on the sunday before All Saints Day (1st Nov) and the ceremony was performed, so I guess it isn't just feast days but sundays closest as well? Unfortunately, I was standing in the Cathedral at about 10.30'ish having a wander about before the midday pilgrim mass. I thought I'd go and have a Colacao and some breakfast before getting back to get a good seat. I got back about 11.30, noting the heady scent of incense in the air (a smell I love). As I was sitting on a bench near the front a grinning friend spotted me and said, "did you see that? Wasn't it great?". Er... no :(

The moral of the story (and possibly another legend)... pilgrim mass and the botafumeiro ceremony are not necessarily the same thing...
 
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The Botafumeiro
Botafumeiro1.jpg

The Botafumeiro (literally ‘smoke spreader’ in Galician) is one of the most famous and popular symbols of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. This is a huge censer that swings up the aisles of the Cathedral through a pulley system pulled by eight men named tiraboleiros. It weighs 53kg and measures five feet. It is suspended from a height of 20 metres and can reach a speed of 70 miles per hour.

The Botafumeiro is used for liturgical purposes (in the same way as a priest would normally incense the altar) on the following Feast Days:

  • The Epiphany of the Lord – 6 January
  • Easter Sunday
  • The Ascension of the Lord
  • The Apparition of the Apostle – 23 May
  • Pentecost Sunday
  • The Martyrdom of Saint James – 25 July
  • Assumption of the Blessed Virgin – 15 August
  • All Saints – 1 November
  • Christ the King
  • Immaculate Conception – 8 December
  • Birth of Jesus – 25 December
  • Transfer of the body of the Apostle – 30 December
The Botafaumeiro may be used on other occasions when groups arrange this.
 
I have to say I am disappointment already concerning that glorious Botafumeiro....sounds like you MIGHT be lucky to experience it. Just reading some of the posts concerning the timing and the fact that large groups are the ones that pay and make it happen for the lucky ones. Understandably it must cost the church a lot of money to do this every day or once a week. ...just finding out about it after all my research on many other topic concerning the Camino. ..packing..alburgues blah blah
Who knows maybe i will be a lucky one:)
 
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I was lucky enough to see the botafumeiro on June 26th 2013, the day after I arrived in Santiago. I didn't understand how lucky I was until I heard how infrequently it happens. I did hear that groups can get together and pay for it. That must have been the case for the mass I attended, because it wasn't a holy day or anything. It was an amazing experience! Also, could the albergue people are thinking of be the Seminaria Menor? Its a 10 minute walk from the Cathedral and has hundreds of beds. I know its not a municipal, but it does have kitchen facilities and a bit later curfew and you can stay more than 1 day. That's where I stayed upon arriving and it was reasonable, clean, had lockers and only lower bunks, no uppers which I loved!
 
The Botafumeiro is an amazing experience to have had, and on completion of my camino I was one of the lucky ones that got to see it (apparently there was a group that had paid to have it done.). However the shoving and jostling of pilgrims and tourists just needing to get the 'perfect view' was a little much. I went back the next morning and attended the Pilgrim Mass and it was then that I was able to truly appreciate and reflect on what I had done. The mass was attended by a few Pilgrims and locals and I didn't have someone poking their elbows and cameras into me. If you are lucky enough to see the Botafumeiro, fantastic, but going back to experience a mass without it is more than worth it.
 
I arrived on June 6th, a Saturday, so that we could be there for sure on Sunday, June 7th. The Botafumeiro swung both days. It was incredible!
 
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From the Wikipedia page on the Botafumeiro ....(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botafumeiro)

There is another large thurible used in the other masses carried out in the cathedral, called "La Alcachofa" (literally, "The Artichoke")[6] or "La Repollo" (literally, "The Cabbage").[7] La Alcachofa is a silver-colored metal censer. It was created in 1971 by the sacred art artisans working under the craftsman Luis Molina Acedo

We saw what we thought was the Botafumeiro on June 24 at the pilgrim's mass, but now I'm wondering if it was this other one. I've checked my photos and in one it looks silver but in others like brass?? Anyone know anything about the other thurible?
 
At the beginning of the summer the cathedral announced that this year the botafumiero would be swung every Friday evening Mass. Their office would be the place to find out on which other feast days and special occasions you could also see it.
 
It takes a lot of manpower to swing the botafumeiro. Knowing the commercial nature of having it swing is a bit off-putting, I agree. However, they pass the collection bag at every mass, and I have watched 75% of the congregation completely ignore it, and the other 25% make clinking sounds. Maybe the church would like to do everything for free, but it needs money somewhere. Charging for the spectacle of the botafumeiro seems like a reasonable commercial compromise. The hand incensor is normal for a Catholic mass. It costs virtually nothing, and requires no extra manpower.
 
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The Church in Santiago must go through a lot of money on upkeep with so many feet passing through. But I read it cost €800 if you wanted it to swing on an unscheduled day. Each person on the rope has to be paid.
 
Hola there is now a sliding scale and I think the charge remains 300€ for pilgrim associations/church groups etc. The higher charges are for large commercially organised groups of coach pilgrims and the highest charge of over 1000€ is for tour groups from cruise ships which dock at A Coruna.
 
[...]Maybe the church would like to do everything for free, but it needs money somewhere. Charging for the spectacle of the botafumeiro seems like a reasonable commercial compromise.

Does it really (want to do for free)???
Commercial compromise for Catholic church???

You must be kidding, falcon269...

B.
 
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Nicola - loved the myths, its always great to see old stories de-bunked. As for the botafumeiro, I was fortunate enough to see it swing. Apparently a tourist had paid the E300 fee - there was a buzz through the cathedral when it was announced at the end of the mass. Fortunately the pilgrims and others in the centre of the church remained seated but some "eager beavers" did get up and run to either side to get that all important snap. I was told there was a notice (in Spanish!) that advised the days the botafumeiro is swung but I did not see/find it. Cheers :)
 

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