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Napoleon Route or Valcarlos?

Frank66

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
May/June 2016 Camino Frances
September (2017) First stage of Camino Portugués
Hi Forum Friends,
I did the 'full' Camino (Whatever that means!)as a solo walker in May 2016 from SJPDP to Santiago and started by using the Napoleon Route to Roncesvalles, overnighting at Orissson. The whole Camino was an exceptional experience.
last year I walked from Roncesvalles to almost Burgos with my wife. On this occasion we stayed almost exclusively in Pensions/Casa Rurals etc with the occasional stay in a private room in Albergues. I enjoyed it, but felt I missed out on the camaraderie that I experienced on my first Camino staying in Albergues the majority of nights.
I'm going back solo again this Sep/Oct and have only a fortnight. So I plan on walking from SJPDP to Burgos staying in albergues, but can't make my mind up whether to do the Napoleon route again or opt for the Valcarlos.
All conflicting advice and shared experiences welcome!
I think about Camino most days when I'm not there doing one! If you have an itch you have to scratch it!!
Already counting off the weeks and days

Buen Camino :D
 
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My wife and I have walked both and I have to say that we both found the Napoleon route to be much easier to the degree that the first year it took almost 9hrs via Valcarlos against 7.30Hrs Napoleon. The sting with the Valcarlos route is in the tail, I feel that as the Napoleon route is up, up, up, the Valcarlos route is up,down, up, down, and the tail end is a quite steep up, up, up, just when you least need it. If you are splitting it with a stay
well that is a different question and I can see how there may several different views on that. all the best with whatever you choose.
 
Although I had walked throughout the summer hiking 20 k up the 1060 meter Ibaneta pass via the Valcarlos route the first time in autumn 2004 at 65 to the monastery at Roncesvalles was certainly the most physically exhausting day of my adult life then to date. I was pooped! Beneath a deep blue sky and brilliant sun I gasped and ached while my pack felt like bricks.

After about 5 hours I finally staggered over the pass into a picnic area filled with a munching mob; they had arrived by bus and cars! Never will I forget the look that one très correct French woman drinking champagne from a crystal flute, no plastic for her, gave me as I trudged past exhausted!
ET would have been better received....Nevertheless eventually I made it to Santiago walking slowly all the way.

Ever since for 10 more caminos via Valcarlos I always walked very easy. Daily distances cited in the guidebooks are not sacred; remember the fable of the tortoise and the hare.
 
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The Napoleon reaches the greatest height but is a steady'ish climb. The Valcarlos does not get so high but may have the greater overall height gain because it goes up and down and up and down, you get the picture. Also as said above the sting really is in the tail as it just goes up and up as a concave slope so steepening all the way. Having said that its a lovely walk. Valcarlos is said to be easier but my experience leaves me with some doubt.
 
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They are both lovely routes.
Flip a coin and decide. Both sides are a winner.
I have walked them both and every time all the way to Roncesvalles the first day. I cannot say one is more difficult than the other, but they are different. With both you reach either Orrison or ValCarlos within just a few hours, and I believe I reached Roncesvalles in about the same amount of time. I did not time myself, and took breaks, but it was mid-afternoon when I got there every time and they had many beds available.
 
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If you have already walked the Napoleon route before, why not try the Valcarlos route this time for variety and to experience some new terrain?
I know what you are saying; the only thing swaying me towards doing the Napoleon again is the stunning views I remember from last time. . .
 
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I know what you are saying; the only thing swaying me towards doing the Napoleon again is the stunning views I remember from last time. . .
Well, maybe the pilgrim office can tell you if there will be fog and high winds up there. Weather has spoiled the views for many after working so hard to get there! The Valcarlos route is lovely in its own way, has some great views, a couple of villages and interesting things to see along the way!
 
My 20 yr. old son.... just finished the first lag of the Napoleon route about two hours ago..... He said at times....he was in 5+ inches of snow, heavy winds, hail, and rain. He laughed and said it was very tough day.....the climb down was the worst.... the trail turned into a constant stream of icy mud and water. ¡Ultreia!
 
My 20 yr. old son.... just finished the first lag of the Napoleon route about two hours ago..... He said at times....he was in 5+ inches of snow, heavy winds, hail, and rain. He laughed and said it was very tough day.....the climb down was the worst.... the trail turned into a constant stream of icy mud and water. ¡Ultreia!
Like I was saying in my above post....:)
 
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My 20 yr. old son.... just finished the first lag of the Napoleon route about two hours ago..... He said at times....he was in 5+ inches of snow, heavy winds, hail, and rain. He laughed and said it was very tough day.....the climb down was the worst.... the trail turned into a constant stream of icy mud and water. ¡Ultreia!
WOW!! Two years ago today I left for Paris then SJPdP to start walking on the 15th. I praise the Lord it was nothing like what the pilgrims today are experiencing. Stay safe and dry and keep on walking. Be strong!!:) Mother nature is so fickle. :eek:
 
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but can't make my mind up whether to do the Napoleon route again or opt for the Valcarlos.

Go via Valcarlos , leave StJPP after lunch and stay in a CR , they have a few very good ones there ,
or
Stay again at Orrison ???
There is a very beautiful feel about the lower route.
 
Next week untill friday the weather will be good. You can go by the Napopleon Route but with good shoes and hot equipment
 
Next week untill friday the weather will be good. You can go by the Napopleon Route but with good shoes and hot equipment

Why repeat what you has already done ??
You have an itch as you say Frank , now scratch it and get it out of your system
You won't be disappointed by the Albergue or Cr's or the 3 restaurants in this lovely Basque Village.
You won't be alone either.
The forrest floor before the rise to Roncesvalles is special.
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
If Valcarlos is now, may be worth a try this time. Here is a vid from someone who has done it and compares thee two routes.


For me, I will be taking the Valcarlos Route starting May 7. VERY EXCITED right now.
Here's a great look at a good portion of the Valcarlos Route in hyperlapse time. It is part of John Sikora's video series covering the Brierley stages of Camino Frances.

Thanks for sharing this great video! I will be leaving St. Jean Pied de Port on May 2, 2018 and watching this video helped me decide which route to choose. I'm leaning more towards the Valcarlos route due to weather and more choices of albergues along the way. Although the view atop the Pyrenees is tempting.....
 
Thanks for sharing this great video! I will be leaving St. Jean Pied de Port on May 2, 2018 and watching this video helped me decide which route to choose. I'm leaning more towards the Valcarlos route due to weather and more choices of albergues along the way. Although the view atop the Pyrenees is tempting.....
I must advise that when walking on roads in France and Spain, they drive on the right side. That means if you walk on the right side, traffic will be coming up right behind you. Please walk on the laft side where traffic will be facing you, when at all possible. Safety first.
 
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