New and Old trail into Portomarin

[Anniesantiago]

For those of you who have walked both the NEW and the OLD trail into Portomarin, what are your thoughts about it?

I'm asking because Joe said many of the people in his group this year found the steps going down really really difficult.

 

[SYates]

I stuck to the old one, force of habit I guess ;-) Buen Camino, SY

 

[Anniesantiago]

I stuck to the old one, force of habit I guess ;-) Buen Camino, SY

Me too. Joe says they clearcut the forest at Parrocha too

 

[Mark Lee]

I guess I took the new one back in August. It was a different one than I took before. Don't really remember much about it. Was mostly wondering if I took a wrong way. Anyway, it popped me out on the road not far from the bridge and I forgot about it within 15 minutes.

 

[Dennis D]

I agree with Joe, the steep walk just before the end of the trail onto the road was very difficult. Some younger guys stuck around to make sure that I made it down safely. I would not take it again. If it would have been raining, I would have turned around and gone back to the fork to take the old trail. For me this was the most dangerous part of the Camino. (5 minutes)

Buen Camino

 

[Meliza]

i think i pass the new route which i found it very difficult i have to go down very very careful im afraid that one mistake i might fall down/slip and hurt my self and bingo its the end of my walk so i really have to be careful. aside that there are some place which is so narrow. im quite big and heavy and no where to hold in the side... in case i slip. when i pass by it was not raining but maybe more dangerous if its raining..

 

[aisbr]

I walked the new route this year out of curiosity. I found it steep but manageable but will avoid it the next time. I would imagine if you were tired and legs were weary that it would be tricky

 

[cher99840]

When did the "new route" come to be? Was it there in the fall of 2013? I don't remember anything that perilous. I do remember coming out of a path on the road near the bridge.

 

[Priscilla NC]

It was raining fairly hard when I went down the new route. I missed any signs for the old route. I found this to be the worst experience on the Frances. I went down parts of it on my butt.

This was *the* topic of conversation for most of us in Portomarin, as many found it very challenging and a few people fell or slid. I was wondering why I had not heard of this stretch, and many said that it was that new that the guidebooks didn't mention it.

I would have taken the alternative route if I had known.

Blessings, Priscilla

 

[Lmsundaze]

I found the route into Portomarin scary and dangerous. Luckily my friend and I were helped down by a very nice young Korean couple, but I would avoid it for sure! I can't even imagine in the rain.

 

[Mark Lee]

Oh I know where you mean now.... Yes it is steep and rocky but it is very short.
Sorry about the ghastly pic, just look at the path

I think that's the route I took. Don't remember exactly. All I know is that it was a different route than I took before into Portomarin, and I believe it was to the left of the other route and I ended up on the road a short distance from the bridge, to the left.

 

[vlebe]

Now the question to you guy who have walked both the new and old paths into Portomarin:

Disregarding the level of difficulty, or dangerous:

Which one is the most beautiful route?

As a mountaineer I tend to look for the longest, steepest and most dangerous routes (considering that on my experience they usually take you trough the most beautiful paths and to the most amazing places)

 

[dougfitz]

My wife and I used the newer variant this year. I don't recall this being marked as an alternative when I walked in 2010, but it appeared from the sign where the paths parted that the old route has become badly eroded and degraded. I remember the old route being a steep descent at the time, but not the specific details of the route surface other than I don't recall it being particularly eroded.

In any case, the new route seemed less steep, followed the road for a while then a track along the back of some houses before emerging onto another road a short distance from the bridge. I don't recall it being particularly difficult.

 

[kmrice]

Just came into Portomarin an hour ago. Did the Camino Frances in 2013.

The 2013 route went east and hit the road to east of the bridge. You crossed on the right side of the bridge, with a great view of the old Roman bridge below you, at least when the water level was low, as it was in 2013.

The new route hits the road west of the bridge. As you approach the bridge you can see the old Roman bridge. You cross on the left side of the new bridge and, at least with today's low water, get a great view of the Roman ruins from the old town.

The new route gives you a choice. You can stay on the road, more or less straight or turn right and go down the trail. There are two stone Camino stone markers, offering contradicting guidance. There is a sign, clearly stating in several languages, one of which is English, that the trail includes a dangerous pedestrian passage.

The trail is great until the last descent to the road, which is very steep and rocky. This 68 year old had no trouble with it, but I started in Le Puy and the Aubrac gave me pretty good training. If I do it again, I'll take the same trail unless it is raining.

At the same time, I must admit that this 68 year old is, it has to be said, slow on the descents; I created a bottle neck of at least 15 pilgrims, including two bikers (!).

 

[vlebe]

Just came into Portomarin an hour ago. Did the Camino Frances in 2013.

The 2013 route went east and hit the road to east of the bridge. You crossed on the right side of the bridge, with a great view of the old Roman bridge below you, at least when the water level was low, as it was in 2013.

The new route hits the road west of the bridge. As you approach the bridge you can see the old Roman bridge. You cross on the left side of the new bridge and, at least with today's low water, get a great view of the Roman ruins from the old town.

The new route gives you a choice. You can stay on the road, more or less straight or turn right and go down the trail. There are two stone Camino stone markers, offering contradicting guidance. There is a sign, clearly stating in several languages, one of which is English, that the trail includes a dangerous pedestrian passage.

The trail is great until the last descent to the road, which is very steep and rocky. This 68 year old had no trouble with it, but I started in Le Puy and the Aubrac gave me pretty good training. If I do it again, I'll take the same trail unless it is raining.

At the same time, I must admit that this 68 year old is, it has to be said, slow on the descents; I created a bottle neck of at least 15 pilgrims, including two bikers (!).

Awesome!
I reckon I'll give it a try in december.... My last CF was also in 2013

Ultreia!

 

[Mark Lee]

Awesome!
I reckon I'll give it a try in december.... My last CF was also in 2013

Ultreia!

From where you hit the fork where the two routes start, to where you come out near the bridge to cross is a short distance. Very small section. I don't recall remember one being more scenic than the other.
Basically it's six of one, half dozen of the other. I think you will be disappointed if you are looking to mountaineer on it.

 

[Mark Lee]

My wife and I used the newer variant this year. I don't recall this being marked as an alternative when I walked in 2010, but it appeared from the sign where the paths parted that the old route has become badly eroded and degraded. I remember the old route being a steep descent at the time, but not the specific details of the route surface other than I don't recall it being particularly eroded.

In any case, the new route seemed less steep, followed the road for a while then a track along the back of some houses before emerging onto another road a short distance from the bridge. I don't recall it being particularly difficult.

Yes, that's the one I took. I remember walking behind those houses, almost like an alley way, and wondering if I was on the right path, then I emerged on the road and could see the bridge.

 

[Anniesantiago]

When did the "new route" come to be? Was it there in the fall of 2013? I don't remember anything that perilous. I do remember coming out of a path on the road near the bridge.

You walked the old route. They've re-routed the Camino for some reason and nearly everyone I talk to finds the new route hazardous.

 

[vlebe]

From where you hit the fork where the two routes start, to where you come out near the bridge to cross is a short distance. Very small section. I don't recall remember one being more scenic than the other.
Basically it's six of one, half dozen of the other. I think you will be disappointed if you are looking to mountaineer on it.

Thanks Mark! I guess I'll just flip a coin when the time comes!

And non, I'm not looking into any mountaineering on the Camino Frances at all.. I've been on it enough times to know that there aren't any mountaineering involved in any of the Caminos (At least that I know of). I've just mentioned that "as a mountaineer" I`m usually keen to choose the hardest, longest and more dangerous alternatives as they, usually, provide more scenic alternatives

Ultreia!

 

[domigee]

Thanks Mark! I guess I'll just flip a coin when the time comes!

And non, I'm not looking into any mountaineering on the Camino Frances at all.. I've been on it enough times to know that there aren't any mountaineering involved in any of the Caminos (At least that I know of). I've just mentioned that "as a mountaineer" I`m usually keen to choose the hardest, longest and more dangerous alternatives as they, usually, provide more scenic alternatives

Ultreia!

I can assure you there's nothing scenic about that path it's just a very short, steep, rocky descent. I had forgotten all about it until mentioned...

 

[domigee]

Just came into Portomarin an hour ago. Did the Camino Frances in 2013.

The 2013 route went east and hit the road to east of the bridge. You crossed on the right side of the bridge, with a great view of the old Roman bridge below you, at least when the water level was low, as it was in 2013.

The new route hits the road west of the bridge. As you approach the bridge you can see the old Roman bridge. You cross on the left side of the new bridge and, at least with today's low water, get a great view of the Roman ruins from the old town.

The new route gives you a choice. You can stay on the road, more or less straight or turn right and go down the trail. There are two stone Camino stone markers, offering contradicting guidance. There is a sign, clearly stating in several languages, one of which is English, that the trail includes a dangerous pedestrian passage.

The trail is great until the last descent to the road, which is very steep and rocky. This 68 year old had no trouble with it, but I started in Le Puy and the Aubrac gave me pretty good training. If I do it again, I'll take the same trail unless it is raining.

At the same time, I must admit that this 68 year old is, it has to be said, slow on the descents; I created a bottle neck of at least 15 pilgrims, including two bikers (!).

Oh good grief!!!
I can't imagine it being so busy.

 

[dougfitz]

The 2013 route went east and hit the road to east of the bridge.

I would worry if any part of the Camino Frances really went east! I have just checked my 2010 and 2016 GPS tracks, and the old route does go roughly to the NNE for about 100m before heading in a generally NW direction.

From the point where the two routes diverge, the old route is just short of 1 km to the end of the bridge, the new route about 500 m longer at 1.47 km to the same spot. The maximum slope of the old route according to Google Earth is -16.7% compared to that on the new route of -10%.

ps there is a short stretch of road leaving Ponferrada that is about 250 m long where the route heads in a ENE direction. That was the closest that I recall to walking to the east, and I remember thinking that I had once again got lost leaving a town in the early morning.

 

[Irenie]

It was raining fairly hard when I went down the new route. I missed any signs for the old route. I found this to be the worst experience on the Frances. I went down parts of it on my butt.

This was *the* topic of conversation for most of us in Portomarin, as many found it very challenging and a few people fell or slid. I was wondering why I had not heard of this stretch, and many said that it was that new that the guidebooks didn't mention it.

I would have taken the alternative route if I had known.

Blessings, Priscilla

Hola, friends. I'm relieved to learn more about the route I will never forget and that I'm not the only pilgrim who is less than enthusiastic about it. The worst of my Camino, especially since I was tired before I stepped foot on it, as it was a long, hot day. I was talking to a hiker who was at the end of a large tourist group of about 20 women from North and South Carolina and they took that new route, however people were clustering around the sign and I followed. I had no idea this was an alternate route and it seemed to grow steeper and dustier with every step, beginning of September, as if it had seen no rain. Great picture posted but I think the trail had 20" dirt stairsteps that seemed almost vertical, and lasted way more than five minutes for me. I've never taken such tentative steps. I just celebrated 70 and hiked without a problem over the Pyrenees and through many rocky and steep paths, without mental anguish. I must have missed it in the guidebook. Then the bridge and the steps to the village. Yikes! I was never so happy to arrive in Portomarin and take off my backpack. Reading this, I think I sound like I'm exaggerating. But I'm not! No lasting effects except knowing it was the last time I follow a hiker down a rabbit hole.

 

[november_moon]

We took the old route - it was raining when we went through that section, so we didn't attempt the steep route.

 

[Penny Kingma]

I did the new....WOW...it was a scary decent. I was completely alone and thoughts went through my mind as to who would find me if I fell. Also wondered if my Camino would end there. However when I successfully got to the bottom I raised my sticks and boasted " I ROCK ! " Kinda embarrassing to admit that I didn't know of another route until reading it here moments ago. Did I mention I donated my Guide book on day 3.

 

[Hal]

I was never more thankful for my two hiking poles than I was going down that track. At the back of my mind I was concerned about causing a bottleneck at the slow pace I descended but after the first 10m I was beyond caring. I hadn't clambered down such steep rocks since childhood!

The other route was well signposted and advertised as slightly longer but I would take it next time.

 

[dougfitz]

I did the new....WOW...it was a scary decent.

I am getting confused. The newer variant comprises a section along the road followed by a trail along the back of some houses and other buildings. At least in Jun this year there was no particularly difficult section. It sounds like you might have taken the shorter and steeper (and older) variant where it appears the track surface has become badly eroded.

 

[Deleted member 56069]

My wife and I did the steeper trail option. No issues, was a little wet so slippery in a few areas so some care is needed. I imagine in a heavy rain you would have a 'pilgrim waterslide'....maybe a possible new attraction!

 

[RiaSmit2047]

When I got at the place where two options were apparent, there were many pilgrims around and we were standing around and wondering which option to choose. Then some people said the road to the left is for bicycles, and most people went straight on. I was unwise enough to follow them, even though I had seen people on the camino forum telling about the difficult descent into Portomarin. So I thought a difficult descent was inevitable. As there were lots of people (several groups of "Sarria pilgrims" happened to be there at the same as me) I let everyone pass when it got difficult in order to take my time. I am 62 years old and not an experienced mountaineer and since I was walking alone I was always careful not to take any chances. Even though I had walking poles, there were times that I was afraid to use them and I took them into one hand and steadied myself against the narrow wall of the canyon with the other hand. My Salomon shoes were a size larger (as people recommend) and they fitted perfectly, and my toenails were very short, but I did not realise that my feet were slipping to the front of the shoes - being inexperienced I perhaps did not realise that the shoes' strings might have been too loose going down there (I forgot about that in the heat of the moment). But that is the day that I got two purple toenails. I just hope that the nails will not come off.
Only that evening at dinner I heard that the other route was less difficult. So the lesson learnt is, it is not always wise to follow the group - it might be better to read the notices yourself and make your own desicions! I consider that narrow gorge to be Purgatory and then you enter the lovely, heavenly Portomarin.

 

[Fearless0]

I am getting confused. The newer variant comprises a section along the road followed by a trail along the back of some houses and other buildings. At least in Jun this year there was no particularly difficult section. It sounds like you might have taken the shorter and steeper (and older) variant where it appears the track surface has become badly eroded.

Dougfitz, I was there in June this year also. I stopped in Vilacha to ask about the new route. Apparently the OLD route approaching Portomarin's bridge from the right is no longer marked. The new route heads down the road in the opposite direction where it then splits off, to the right and the steepness (it's well marked), and to the left on the main road to the back of those buildings and the nasty trail. We took the trail behind the buildings. This way is now marked as 'complimentery'. It was so nasty and scary that we weren't sure we were in the right place until we happened upon a man working and he told us we were almost there. We popped out onto the main road and approached the bridge from the left.

 

[Irenie]

When I got at the place where two options were apparent, there were many pilgrims around and we were standing around and wondering which option to choose. Then some people said the road to the left is for bicycles, and most people went straight on. I was unwise enough to follow them, even though I had seen people on the camino forum telling about the difficult descent into Portomarin. So I thought a difficult descent was inevitable. As there were lots of people (several groups of "Sarria pilgrims" happened to be there at the same as me) I let everyone pass when it got difficult in order to take my time. I am 62 years old and not an experienced mountaineer and since I was walking alone I was always careful not to take any chances. Even though I had walking poles, there were times that I was afraid to use them and I took them into one hand and steadied myself against the narrow wall of the canyon with the other hand. My Salomon shoes were a size larger (as people recommend) and they fitted perfectly, and my toenails were very short, but I did not realise that my feet were slipping to the front of the shoes - being inexperienced I perhaps did not realise that the shoes' strings might have been too loose going down there (I forgot about that in the heat of the moment). But that is the day that I got two purple toenails. I just hope that the nails will not come off.
Only that evening at dinner I heard that the other route was less difficult. So the lesson learnt is, it is not always wise to follow the group - it might be better to read the notices yourself and make your own desicions! I consider that narrow gorge to be Purgatory and then you enter the lovely, heavenly Portomarin.

Thank you, RiaSmit, Wonderful description and advice I will remember for the next Camino. That was my day for two toe blisters to have their way and I finally lost one of the nails just last week, weeks later. The Camino is the best teacher if we learn from our experience. Yes, what a blessing on that day to finally arrive. Buen Camino.

 

[Jeff Crawley]

Dougfitz, I was there in June this year also. I stopped in Vilacha to ask about the new route. Apparently the OLD route approaching Portomarin's bridge from the right is no longer marked. The new route heads down the road in the opposite direction where it then splits off, to the right and the steepness (it's well marked), and to the left on the main road to the back of those buildings and the nasty trail. We took the trail behind the buildings. This way is now marked as 'complimentery'. It was so nasty and scary that we weren't sure we were in the right place until we happened upon a man working and he told us we were almost there. We popped out onto the main road and approached the bridge from the left.

The old route seemed to be well enough marked last month. My friend Jo hated it though, worst flight of "steps" on the Camino! In 2012 we turned right just after the T junction and had no great problems.
On the photo yellow line is 2012, blue line is 2016.



And yes, the woodland has been destroyed.

 

[simply B]

@Anniesantiago -

In early March, I was surprised by the new route - - and loathed it. Thick mud most of the way, way too narrow in several spots and much steeper than the old route.

And, no, I am not overly fussy about getting dirty and have excellent balance but the grade of slope and slipperiness of the mud made for a very tedious and careful descent.

Then, upon being delivered to the road, the brush on either side prevented much view of oncoming traffic from either side. (Maybe they have now cut it back since no one above whines about it!) That made for a fast dash to the opposite side which, upon achieved without harm, was most exhilarating.

B

 

[Fearless0]

The old route seemed to be well enough marked last month. My friend Jo hated it though, worst flight of "steps" on the Camino! In 2012 we turned right just after the T junction and had no great problems.
On the photo yellow line is 2012, blue line is 2016.

View attachment 29535

And yes, the woodland has been destroyed.

Jeff, thank you for that map showing the old (yellow) and new (blue). BUT...I dont know how to do it, and would if I could... We need to ADD a green line which branches off the blue which is showing the dangerous new route. The green line branches off onto the road to the left to the easier alternative which I took going behind those white building you can see. Aren't maps wonderful things!!! Thank you so much for that.

 

[Mark Lee]

I am getting confused. The newer variant comprises a section along the road followed by a trail along the back of some houses and other buildings. At least in Jun this year there was no particularly difficult section. It sounds like you might have taken the shorter and steeper (and older) variant where it appears the track surface has become badly eroded.

Ditto. I don't remember any nasty, really steep section. I only remember walking behind those houses and wondering if I was on the right path and then I remember coming out on the road to the left of the bridge.

 

[Fearless0]

Ditto. I don't remember any nasty, really steep section. I only remember walking behind those houses and wondering if I was on the right path and then I remember coming out on the road to the left of the bridge.

Mark, you don't remember any nasty steep section because you took the easier way behind the buildings and not the nastier newer section that branches off the road. If someone would only add that green line on the map it would become clear there is 3 seperate ways into Portomarin.

 

[trecile]

When I got at the place where two options were apparent, there were many pilgrims around and we were standing around and wondering which option to choose. Then some people said the road to the left is for bicycles, and most people went straight on. I was unwise enough to follow them, even though I had seen people on the camino forum telling about the difficult descent into Portomarin. So I thought a difficult descent was inevitable. As there were lots of people (several groups of "Sarria pilgrims" happened to be there at the same as me) I let everyone pass when it got difficult in order to take my time. I am 62 years old and not an experienced mountaineer and since I was walking alone I was always careful not to take any chances. Even though I had walking poles, there were times that I was afraid to use them and I took them into one hand and steadied myself against the narrow wall of the canyon with the other hand. My Salomon shoes were a size larger (as people recommend) and they fitted perfectly, and my toenails were very short, but I did not realise that my feet were slipping to the front of the shoes - being inexperienced I perhaps did not realise that the shoes' strings might have been too loose going down there (I forgot about that in the heat of the moment). But that is the day that I got two purple toenails. I just hope that the nails will not come off.
Only that evening at dinner I heard that the other route was less difficult. So the lesson learnt is, it is not always wise to follow the group - it might be better to read the notices yourself and make your own desicions! I consider that narrow gorge to be Purgatory and then you enter the lovely, heavenly Portomarin.

I had a similar experience as far as making a decision which way to go. The group that was gathered around the sign when I was there decided that the other way was for cyclists, and we ended up on the very steep and narrow trail. It was quite busy when I went through.

 

[dougfitz]

Ditto. I don't remember any nasty, really steep section. I only remember walking behind those houses and wondering if I was on the right path and then I remember coming out on the road to the left of the bridge.

Mark, you don't remember any nasty steep section because you took the easier way behind the buildings and not the nastier newer section that branches off the road. If someone would only add that green line on the map it would become clear there is 3 seperate ways into Portomarin.

I have looked at my track in Google Earth, and where the blue track in @Jeff Crawley's post passes the second of two wooded areas and goes straight ahead, the road that I took veers to the left and heads in a westerly direction until it reaches a track that heads north to the east of the buildings along the lakeside road. (I think Jeff's map is oriented with the top slightly west of north.) I remember looking back up along the blue alternative where it joins the road again, and thinking that it looked like a pretty nasty descent, and that I was glad my wife and I had not tried to follow it.

 

[Threshold]

Hiked to Portomarin today in a pouring rain. After studying the three routes on my Mapy.cz app and viewing the huge sign where the trails diverge, and reading the forum shares, we decided on the road on the left. (Left when facing the river before you cross it). It’s plainly visible on the big sign and on Mapy. It was a piece of cake. Gently sloped blacktop all the way to the river road LU-633, wide paved shoulder over to the bridge.
A sign said bicycle route but there were tractors and cars on it as well as walkers In other words it’s a public highway. On the big sign the road is referred to as “complimentary”.

 

[Irenie]

Hiked to Portomarin today in a pouring rain. After studying the three routes on my Mapy.cz app and viewing the huge sign where the trails diverge, and reading the forum shares, we decided on the road on the left. (Left when facing the river before you cross it). It’s plainly visible on the big sign and on Mapy. It was a piece of cake. Gently sloped blacktop all the way to the river road LU-633, wide paved shoulder over to the bridge.
A sign said bicycle route but there were tractors and cars on it as well as walkers In other words it’s a public highway. On the big sign the road is referred to as “complimentary”.

Good to hear you chose the “easy “ route. If you read the 2016 posts you’ll see how lucky. Read mine for a totally unbiased account. Ha! ¡Buen Camino!

 

[Threshold]

Good to hear you chose the “easy “ route. If you read the 2016 posts you’ll see how lucky. Read mine for a totally unbiased account. Ha! ¡Buen Camino!

 

[Threshold]

Later yesterday met a peregrino who came down the “new and improved “ trail also yesterday. They received broken-bone injuries and went to the hospital, ending their Camino. That’s what prompted me to post above.
Not that I’m against dangerous routes, however. The vast majority go for the danger and difficulty. Just letting people know they have a choice.
If you’re looking difficulty, try cross-country hiking with NO trail like we used to do in California’s Sierra Nevada.

 

[David Tallan]

Hiked to Portomarin today in a pouring rain. After studying the three routes on my Mapy.cz app and viewing the huge sign where the trails diverge, and reading the forum shares, we decided on the road on the left. (Left when facing the river before you cross it). It’s plainly visible on the big sign and on Mapy. It was a piece of cake. Gently sloped blacktop all the way to the river road LU-633, wide paved shoulder over to the bridge.
A sign said bicycle route but there were tractors and cars on it as well as walkers In other words it’s a public highway. On the big sign the road is referred to as “complimentary”.

That was the route I took in 2016 when I was nursing a bum knee.

 

[JabbaPapa]

The other day I walked from Portomarín across the old bridge and then up the "old" trail. It was without difficulty.

Not sure I've ever taken the "new" route. I walked across the old bridge in 2014 too, but I backtracked from the start of the new bridge after seeing that the old one was passable, though my impression is that I went the "old" way that time as well.

 

[Kathar1na]

After studying the three routes on my Mapy.cz app and viewing the huge sign where the trails diverge, and reading the forum shares, we decided on the road on the left. (Left when facing the river before you cross it)

Thank you for sharing. Below is a photo of the large sign showing the three trails into Portomarín (not two as the thread title suggests). The very rocky part between stone walls on the left and right at the end of the middle trail can be seen in one of the photos on this information board.

 

[dbier]

Thanks for the photo. My husband and I took the one all the way to the right (Jul 21) after studying that board.

 

[OTH86]

Interesting watching the "evolution" of this section.
In 2013, I took the right track, and don't remember there being any alternatives. As I remember it was steep in sections, otherwise, an ok route. In 2016, I think, @Albertagirl and I were walking together for a short while, and discovered the middle trail. At the boulders, she went down pretty much like a mountain goat! Being the coward I am, I went back and took the 'newish' path on the south - I turned right when I got back to the sign.
Really appreciate all the work that has gone into the safety considerations of this section!!
Now. If only I could get across That Bridge without looking!!!!