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Norte vs. Primitivo

Scott Peters

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
del Norte - late May (2017)
I have about two weeks to spend on the Camino. After deciding the CF would be too crowded (late May) I planned my entire trip for the CdN. Now I'm worried that will be too isolated / not as good of an experience / not as nice and historical as other options. Someone else just suggested I look at doing the last 12 days or so of the Primitivo. any other thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!!!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Depends on what kind of experience you want and whether this is your first Camino. If you want historical/religious/community/feelgood, then I would suggest the CF starting Leon or Astorga.

Having said that, both the Norte and Primitivo are well worthwhile, but different from the CF.

And yes, I have walked all three, but not in May.
 
This is my first Camino and I guess I don't know what I want. I know that the CF should be the first, but I also really don't want such massive crowds. What's the right balance to get the real Camino experience (including sites and social aspects) without too many people? I don't really want to have to stress about full albergues every night and fighting for space at a bar.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
@Scott Peters , take some really deep breaths. Then take a few days, minimum, paying attention to what you do in your current, pre-camino, life. Think hard about whats good and what isn't. Write lists: pros, cons, neutrals. Then have a big think about what you want out of the camino: a life changing experience; an easy hike in lovely countryside; a chance to think without every-day life interrupting; a chance to party with all sorts of amazing people from all around the globe.

Then think very, very hard about what it is you are really scared of - how well would you cope with a day with no-one to talk to who speaks your language; what if you were all alone in a strange building for the night (safe, just alone); how long can you queue at the bar before it all gets too much; how disastrous would it be if you can't get a bed in your first pick Albergue but have to go somewhere else; what if someone tells you you are not a real pilgrim because...

By the way there are no, or rather few, rules on the camino. And there is definitely no rule that says that you have to walk the Frances first. In May there will be many pilgrims on the Norte. In May there will always be a bed on the Frances - and room at the bar.

If you want to walk to Santiago start in Leon, or Oviedo, or Porto. But try hard to understand why you want to do it then your camino experience will be real, for you.

And when you have figured out why you want to walk camino take a few deep breaths, pick up your pack and walk.
 
@Scott Peters , take some really deep breaths. Then take a few days, minimum, paying attention to what you do in your current, pre-camino, life. Think hard about whats good and what isn't. Write lists: pros, cons, neutrals. Then have a big think about what you want out of the camino: a life changing experience; an easy hike in lovely countryside; a chance to think without every-day life interrupting; a chance to party with all sorts of amazing people from all around the globe.

Then think very, very hard about what it is you are really scared of - how well would you cope with a day with no-one to talk to who speaks your language; what if you were all alone in a strange building for the night (safe, just alone); how long can you queue at the bar before it all gets too much; how disastrous would it be if you can't get a bed in your first pick Albergue but have to go somewhere else; what if someone tells you you are not a real pilgrim because...

By the way there are no, or rather few, rules on the camino. And there is definitely no rule that says that you have to walk the Frances first. In May there will be many pilgrims on the Norte. In May there will always be a bed on the Frances - and room at the bar.

If you want to walk to Santiago start in Leon, or Oviedo, or Porto. But try hard to understand why you want to do it then your camino experience will be real, for you.

And when you have figured out why you want to walk camino take a few deep breaths, pick up your pack and walk.

An awesome response!

So if I want a life changing experience, which do I choose (half in jest)? I think what I fear most is stress on the walk - I don't want to feel like that and I'm prone to do it (such as stress about a room or not knowing where to go, etc).
 
So walk the comforting Frances - loads of beds, loads of bars, loads of little yellow arrows and always a pilgrim to share your confusion with.

Or walk the Primitivo and challenge your socks off and walk into Santiago laughing at the glory of it all.

What you choose is your choice. If you knew about some of the choices I've made you definitely wouldn't be asking me for an opinion ;)
 
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@Scott Peters , take some really deep breaths. Then take a few days, minimum, paying attention to what you do in your current, pre-camino, life. Think hard about whats good and what isn't. Write lists: pros, cons, neutrals. Then have a big think about what you want out of the camino: a life changing experience; an easy hike in lovely countryside; a chance to think without every-day life interrupting; a chance to party with all sorts of amazing people from all around the globe.

Then think very, very hard about what it is you are really scared of - how well would you cope with a day with no-one to talk to who speaks your language; what if you were all alone in a strange building for the night (safe, just alone); how long can you queue at the bar before it all gets too much; how disastrous would it be if you can't get a bed in your first pick Albergue but have to go somewhere else; what if someone tells you you are not a real pilgrim because...

By the way there are no, or rather few, rules on the camino. And there is definitely no rule that says that you have to walk the Frances first. In May there will be many pilgrims on the Norte. In May there will always be a bed on the Frances - and room at the bar.

If you want to walk to Santiago start in Leon, or Oviedo, or Porto. But try hard to understand why you want to do it then your camino experience will be real, for you.

And when you have figured out why you want to walk camino take a few deep breaths, pick up your pack and walk.
Well said...great advise and help given to a newbie!
 
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Hi Scott, there are no 'bad' options. Whichever one you choose will be the right one for you.

Although the CF is usually recommended on this forum for one's first Camino, most of the people we met on the Primitivo last year were first-time pilgrims. If you are reasonably fit and active, you could walk the Primitivo in your two-week timeframe. You'll have company and camaraderie in late May, without the crowds, stress and bed-races of the CF. There's lots of information on this forum and on sites such as Gronze that will help you to do some initial planning.

I'm sure that two weeks on the Norte would also be wonderful :)

Buen Camino and happy planning!
 
I did not walk the CF except the last two stretches after Melide where the Camino Primitivo joins the CF. It was quite a shock to walk with so many people in a totally different atmosphere. The Camino Primitivo was very nice, not lonely, at least not in may. There were enough albergues, the landscape was very beautifully
Hi Scott, there are no 'bad' options. Whichever one you choose will be the right one for you.

Although the CF is usually recommended on this forum for one's first Camino, most of the people we met on the Primitivo last year were first-time pilgrims. If you are reasonably fit and active, you could walk the Primitivo in your two-week timeframe. You'll have company and camaraderie in late May, without the crowds, stress and bed-races of the CF. There's lots of information on this forum and on sites such as Gronze that will help you to do some initial planning.

I'm sure that two weeks on the Norte would also be wonderful :)

Buen Camino and happy planning!

In may last year I walked the Primitivo, it was very good, beautifull landscapes, Oviedo and Lugo are nice cities. There were no big crowds, but it sure was not a lonely camino, more than enough people in the evening for "socialising". In Melide the Primitivo joined with the Camino Frances, that came quite as a shock, I never walked the Frances, because of all the stories I heard about the crowds on this route. All I heard proved to be true. For long stretches I walked in a row behind other pilgrims, when I finally succeeded in overhauling them, I soon came to one of the many bars and this proces started all over again. There were people walking with loud music; probably because of the many I did not hear as many birdsounds as on the primitivo and other caminos .Perhaps the crowds in the earlier stages on the Frances are not that big. A possibility for you might be to walk earlier stages, but then you would not walk in to Santiago
 
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Is there any way to get to the Primitovo from Santiago (when I'm flying into) other than Lugo or Oviedo? I have more time than just to start from Lugo but I can't find any place a bus might stop farther back between Luco and Oviedo.
 
I looked at an Alsa site (spanish buscompany) There seems to be a possibility to take a bus to Luarca and from there a bus to Tineo (3 walking days; 70 kilometers from Oviedo) It would take you a day : Leave at 9 in the morning and arrive in the end of the afternoon) At the end you would have to walk 2,5 kilometer. In Tineo there is an albergue and a luxurious hotel opened a welprovided private albergue downstairs (I cannot remember the name) If needed I could find more specific information.
 
Another possibility would be to travel to Oviedo, see a little bit of the city and next morning take a bus to Tineo. 1 1/2 hour. The stage from Tineo to Borres is only 16 kliometer. Borres is the most logic stoppingplace, certainly if weather permits you to walk the beautifull Hospitalesroute (
 
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I looked at an Alsa site (spanish buscompany) There seems to be a possibility to take a bus to Luarca and from there a bus to Tineo (3 walking days; 70 kilometers from Oviedo) It would take you a day : Leave at 9 in the morning and arrive in the end of the afternoon) At the end you would have to walk 2,5 kilometer. In Tineo there is an albergue and a luxurious hotel opened a welprovided private albergue downstairs (I cannot remember the name) If needed I could find more specific information.
Thanks so much for the help. However, when I've searched on the ALSA site, I haven't been able to find a route / trip from Luarca to Tineo. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
 
I found this information on a Dutch site. I think the bus from luarca to tineo is run by a different company.
There seems to be only one, more or less direct connection, others make a detour to Oviedo.
This is the I formation I found:
Departure 14.35 from LA Repicona (inLuarca)
You haveto transfer in Navelgas (waiting time about one hour)
Arrival 16.59 in Piedratecha, then 2,5 km walk to Tineo
Name of company Automobiles Garrison SL TEL. 0034985275749
I hope this in formation is helpfull
 
I walked in September last year and never encountered these massive crowds I keep reading about. Sure, there were more people on the trail after Sarria, but I still had times that I'd walk for an hour or so without seeing anyone else.
 
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Is there any way to get to the Primitovo from Santiago (when I'm flying into) other than Lugo or Oviedo? I have more time than just to start from Lugo but I can't find any place a bus might stop farther back between Luco and Oviedo.
If you are flying into Santiago then you take the bus to Lugo. From Lugo there is a bus to A Fonsagrada (Linea Hervei) where you can start walking. There is no bus to Grandas de Salime as you cross the boundary between Galicia and Asturias.
If flying into Oviedo then you can take a bus (Alsa Line) to Oviedo itself, then on to various destinations including Grado, Salas Tineo, Grandas de Salime - where it terminates.
The Luarca-bus times are on the same group as the Hervei and run from Navia to Grandas de Salime.
With both options for Grandas there is only one bus per day. From Lugo to A Fonsagrada there are at least 2, and 3 during work days.
 
From Fonsagrada to Santiago is about 150 km, about a week walking. You would miss some beautifully stretches. In Fonsagrada there is,like in Tineo a luxurious pension with a wellprovided alberguesection. I think it was called Cantabrico
 
From Fonsagrada to Santiago is about 150 km, about a week walking. You would miss some beautifully stretches. In Fonsagrada there is,like in Tineo a luxurious pension with a wellprovided alberguesection. I think it was called Cantabrico
I agree, but for many pilgrims the problem is which airport they arrive at. Lack of any public transport between A Fonsagrada and Grandas de Salime would mean either walking, or taking a taxi (expensive), the 27kms eastwards a to start in Grandas or catching the daily bus from Grandas to Tineo etc to start further back. Those who arrive via Asturias airport (Oviedo) don't have that problem.
I think that if the OP is arriving via Santiago then the A Fonsagrada option could work out best. It also gives the opportunity to walk shorter days into Lugo to start up slowly - A Fonsagrada; Cadabo; Castroverde; Lugo etc ad it took us 10 days to Santiago after A Fonsagrada :) plus 2 days in Lugo to see the walls etc
 
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I agree, but for many pilgrims the problem is which airport they arrive at. Lack of any public transport between A Fonsagrada and Grandas de Salime would mean either walking, or taking a taxi (expensive), the 27kms eastwards a to start in Grandas or catching the daily bus from Grandas to Tineo etc to start further back. Those who arrive via Asturias airport (Oviedo) don't have that problem.
I think that if the OP is arriving via Santiago then the A Fonsagrada option could work out best. It also gives the opportunity to walk shorter days into Lugo to start up slowly - A Fonsagrada; Cadabo; Castroverde; Lugo etc ad it took us 10 days to Santiago after A Fonsagrada :) plus 2 days in Lugo to see the walls etc

I hope everyone knows just how thankful I am for all this help.

I've done some exploring and it seems like getting to Lugo and/or Fonsagrada from Santiago is pretty easy and fast. However, I was hoping to hike farther. It looks like that is too short and that going from Oviedo (hiking the Primitivo) is too long. There does look like a bus to Luarca (4hrs) and then another one the next day to Tineo (2hrs). Worth all the hassle for the extra days?
 
I looked at an Alsa site (spanish buscompany) There seems to be a possibility to take a bus to Luarca and from there a bus to Tineo (3 walking days; 70 kilometers from Oviedo) It would take you a day : Leave at 9 in the morning and arrive in the end of the afternoon) At the end you would have to walk 2,5 kilometer. In Tineo there is an albergue and a luxurious hotel opened a welprovided private albergue downstairs (I cannot remember the name) If needed I could find more specific information.
The lovely hotel mentioned above in Tineo with pilgrim lodging downstairs is called Palacio de Meras (according to the Dave Whitson guide book.)
 
Another possibility would be to travel to Oviedo, see a little bit of the city and next morning take a bus to Tineo. 1 1/2 hour. The stage from Tineo to Borres is only 16 kliometer. Borres is the most logic stoppingplace, certainly if weather permits you to walk the beautifull Hospitalesroute (
Having done the Primativo, I would suggest starting in Oviedo if possible, walk to Lugo, (both lovely cities), then catch the bus in Lugo and ride all the way to Santiago. This avoids the less interesting terrain and the crowds that form when merging with the Frances route. However, you would not be able to receive a compostella, as you would not have walked the last 100k.
 
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I totally agree that the most beautiful part of the Primitivo comes before Lugo, but if a compostela is your goal, you have a conundrum. One thing to consider is that many people walk the Primitivo in 11 or 12 days from Oviedo to Santiago. I don't know what you think your daily averages would be, but you can find a lot of "standard" itineraries that would get you to Santiago in 12 days, which would give you the "best of both worlds", so to speak.
 
I totally agree that the most beautiful part of the Primitivo comes before Lugo, but if a compostela is your goal, you have a conundrum. One thing to consider is that many people walk the Primitivo in 11 or 12 days from Oviedo to Santiago. I don't know what you think your daily averages would be, but you can find a lot of "standard" itineraries that would get you to Santiago in 12 days, which would give you the "best of both worlds", so to speak.

I've thought about that, but I'm worried that the length and elevation change would make it pretty tough. Such a route would involve 25 - 30k per day on average...
 
It took me 13 days, these were the distances
 
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Scott, would you mind if I give you a personal observation about stress...? I walked the Norte last September / October and was really quite nervous about so many issues, such as the language, accommodation, route finding, meeting people etc. A forum member said to me that all my fears would be left behind once I started walking,. I was sceptical but never a truer piece of advice was given. Despite my initial misgivings, it was the most amazing, glorious experience ever and there was never a day I didn't enjoy, even the wet days. Hmm... not strictly correct, the blister days were a nightmare (seriously test your shoes and boots beforehand!)

I would recommend you wring every possible day out there. For me, each day improved the experience and it took around 10 - 12 days before I was really in 'the zone', totally chilled and loving every second of it. You shouldn't find the Norte or Primitivo too isolated in May, it will be a wonderful time to walk it.

It's easy for me over sitting in front of my laptop to say 'don't worry about stress', but I promise you that it will be fine and you'll wonder what on earth you were so stressed about beforehand! If ever there is a problem, the Camino always has a way of providing. Well, that's my experience, and of course, every journey is unique, as will be yours.

Lastly, I had the Wise Pilgrim app on my iPhone, great for route finding and accommodation. although I only used the map very occasionally to ensure I was more or less on track. The iTranslate app was also very useful, and the 4G signal is excellent in Northern Spain, much better than the UK, so a data bundle would be useful, as you sometimes fight for wi-fi with all the other peregrinos in the albergues!

Have a blast, and keep us updated!
Pete
 
Scott, would you mind if I give you a personal observation about stress...? I walked the Norte last September / October and was really quite nervous about so many issues, such as the language, accommodation, route finding, meeting people etc. A forum member said to me that all my fears would be left behind once I started walking,. I was sceptical but never a truer piece of advice was given. Despite my initial misgivings, it was the most amazing, glorious experience ever and there was never a day I didn't enjoy, even the wet days. Hmm... not strictly correct, the blister days were a nightmare (seriously test your shoes and boots beforehand!)

I would recommend you wring every possible day out there. For me, each day improved the experience and it took around 10 - 12 days before I was really in 'the zone', totally chilled and loving every second of it. You shouldn't find the Norte or Primitivo too isolated in May, it will be a wonderful time to walk it.

It's easy for me over sitting in front of my laptop to say 'don't worry about stress', but I promise you that it will be fine and you'll wonder what on earth you were so stressed about beforehand! If ever there is a problem, the Camino always has a way of providing. Well, that's my experience, and of course, every journey is unique, as will be yours.

Lastly, I had the Wise Pilgrim app on my iPhone, great for route finding and accommodation. although I only used the map very occasionally to ensure I was more or less on track. The iTranslate app was also very useful, and the 4G signal is excellent in Northern Spain, much better than the UK, so a data bundle would be useful, as you sometimes fight for wi-fi with all the other peregrinos in the albergues!

Have a blast, and keep us updated!
Pete

Great advice! So here's my working plan for the Norte. Any comments are welcome! First location is starting place, second is where I'd spend the night, and the third is the KM.

Santiago Luarca Bus
Luarca Navia 22
Navia Ribadeo 31
Ribadeo Lourenzá 28
Lourenzá Gotan 25
Gotan Vilaba 20
Vilaba Baamonde 20
Baamonde Miraz 15
Miraz Sobrado dos Monxes 26
Sobrado dos Monxes Arzua 22
Arzua O Pedrouzo 19
O Pedrouzo Santiago 21
 
I see that something has gone wrong in my earlier message.
The Camino Primitivo took me 13 days, these were the distances
Oviedo Grado 26
Grado Salas 22
Salas Tineo 21
Tineo Borres 16
Borres Berducedo 25
Berducedo Grandas de S 20
Grandas Fonsagrada 26
Fonsagrada Castroverde 31
Castroverde Lugo 22
Lugo Ponte Ferreira 27
Ponte Ferreira Boentre 27
Boente O Pedrouso 27
Pedrouso Santiago 20
Whatever you choose, have a BUEN CAMINO both on the trail and in your life
 
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An awesome response!

So if I want a life changing experience, which do I choose (half in jest)? I think what I fear most is stress on the walk - I don't want to feel like that and I'm prone to do it (such as stress about a room or not knowing where to go, etc).
To take the stress out of getting a bed or room at the end of your day's walking. You could think about booking small hotels ahead? I did this on my first trip because walking alone I didn't know what it would be like to get somewhere tried and not be able to get a bed in an Albergue. I believe I could still call myself a peregrina ( though others might disagree)!
If it was my first Camino, I would start in St Jean for the sheer adrenaline buzz and take 2 weeks to get to Burgos and spend a couple of days en route lapping up some of the wonderful towns/cities.
Relax you will love it. After all you are half way there, you have decided to walk a Camino - welcome to the club!
 
Is there any way to get to the Primitovo from Santiago (when I'm flying into) other than Lugo or Oviedo? I have more time than just to start from Lugo but I can't find any place a bus might stop farther back between Luco and Oviedo.

You can get a bus or train to Oviedo form Madrid but it is a long haul. Best to fly to Asturias OVD and take the shuttle to Oviedo. Much less tiring and stressful.
 
I have about two weeks to spend on the Camino. After deciding the CF would be too crowded (late May) I planned my entire trip for the CdN. Now I'm worried that will be too isolated / not as good of an experience / not as nice and historical as other options. Someone else just suggested I look at doing the last 12 days or so of the Primitivo. any other thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!!!

Scott:

I walked the Norte from April 1-29. You will not be to isolated.

It is a great walk.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
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I did not walk the CF except the last two stretches after Melide where the Camino Primitivo joins the CF. It was quite a shock to walk with so many people in a totally different atmosphere. The Camino Primitivo was very nice, not lonely, at least not in may. There were enough albergues, the landscape was very beautifully


In may last year I walked the Primitivo, it was very good, beautifull landscapes, Oviedo and Lugo are nice cities. There were no big crowds, but it sure was not a lonely camino, more than enough people in the evening for "socialising". In Melide the Primitivo joined with the Camino Frances, that came quite as a shock, I never walked the Frances, because of all the stories I heard about the crowds on this route. All I heard proved to be true. For long stretches I walked in a row behind other pilgrims, when I finally succeeded in overhauling them, I soon came to one of the many bars and this proces started all over again. There were people walking with loud music; probably because of the many I did not hear as many birdsounds as on the primitivo and other caminos .Perhaps the crowds in the earlier stages on the Frances are not that big. A possibility for you might be to walk earlier stages, but then you would not walk in to Santiago
I must agree about the Frances. I started out on the Camoino Norte which was wonderful, not too solitary either and I went in Sept. I lost a few days due to blisters so I went down to the Frances at Leon. Not nice. The part from Leon to Astorga is horrible. Flat, ugly and no trees. Then along the trail lots of dirty toilet paper and outside of Leon I believe there were groups of loud people breathing down my neck. Never again and that was in late Sept and Oct. I hope to return and do the other have of the Norte or the Primitivo which I hear is really, really nice.
 
So walk the comforting Frances - loads of beds, loads of bars, loads of little yellow arrows and always a pilgrim to share your confusion with.

Or walk the Primitivo and challenge your socks off and walk into Santiago laughing at the glory of it all.

What you choose is your choice. If you knew about some of the choices I've made you definitely wouldn't be asking me for an opinion ;)

Tincatinker,
I want to hear more about "walk the Primitivo and challenge your socks off and walk into Santiago laughing at the glory of it all." Sounds like a good story. I'm walking Primitivo in May... to help update the Confraternity of St James 2013 guide book.
Cheers, Stacey
 
My suggestion is to start El Norte on normal terms and then decide going primitivo later on.....(I took the typical selfie in the crossing thinking I would save Primitivo for another day)....no hurry on that one..... Primitivo will have fewer fellow walkers and I've been told it is somewhat more physically challenging. Last remark is just that....a remark. We all can do it all....on our own terms.
 
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Hi Stacey, my remark was intended more for the OP than as a general comment on the Primitivo. My intention was to offer some encouragement to embrace the challenge of the Primitivo rather than the structured comforts of the Frances.

IMO the Primitivo is a far more challenging route than the Frances, especially for a newbie. Fewer Albergues, coffee stops, pilgrims; less infrastructure generally. At least one serious decision point at Borres: Hospitales / Pola de Allende. (And an out-of-date guide ;)).

As a member of the 13th Tribe I've spent my lifetime in the wilderness but for many pilgrims their camino will be their adventure of a lifetime or the key to a future full of adventure. I will always advocate the road less travelled even if that is only taking Monmouth St and St Martin's Lane instead of the Charing Cross Road to get from Cambridge Circus to the National Portrait Gallery.

The Beloved and I will be walking the Camino Vasco (the tunnel route) in May with the intention of up-dating the guide. See you on the road one day amiga
 
I hope everyone knows just how thankful I am for all this help.

I've done some exploring and it seems like getting to Lugo and/or Fonsagrada from Santiago is pretty easy and fast. However, I was hoping to hike farther. It looks like that is too short and that going from Oviedo (hiking the Primitivo) is too long. There does look like a bus to Luarca (4hrs) and then another one the next day to Tineo (2hrs). Worth all the hassle for the extra days?
Sorry not to reply sooner but we have been away.
Yes, the time to get to Tineo would be well worth it. We started from Tineo in 2012 (having reached there in 2010). If the bus is early enough you could walk out of Tineo that day as far as Campiello (13kms), a nice way to start. We ate at the Bar Tineo, in Tineo, about 200mts past where the camino turns right, and up hill, off the main street near the Correos.
 
A short note for Camino Frances hopefuls. I am not a particularly sociable walker....I like my own company and I have walked the Camino Frances in May, in June and in September. I have never experienced "massive" crowds at any time...anywhere!
Fellow walkers and natives were consistently pleasant, my solitude was always respected beyond "Buen Camino" or "Buenas Dias".....when that is what I wished. Every walk has been wonderful!
This May, it will be the Camino Primitivo and I am looking forward to more of the same....maybe a little more solitude.....but that's about all.
It is your Camino...Do it anyway you like and if you don't love it, you need a new past time!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Then I can only say "you were lucky", I saw the massive crowds (at least in the last 100 kilometers) I only walked the last 50 km, coming from the primitivo
 
Time for me to update my earlier post. I mentioned that I never felt the crush of crowds that many others have noted? UPDATE...WOW!
I need to change my position....I just finished the Camino Primitivo ( every bit as beautiful as they say and maybe even a bit more challenging than I expected ) .
Maybe because I stayed in Pensiones, casa rurals, etc....I only saw 11 people on my entire walk 'til Melide....Cripes, then they came out of the woodwork....hundreds of them!
I still believe that everyone is entitled to their own version of the Camino but it really was a shocker from Melide to Santiago. There were always at least 20-30 folks in view.
They had every right to be there but it is time for me to find some other routes!
My Caminos will always stay in my heart!,
Buen Camino, all!
 
Time for me to update my earlier post. I mentioned that I never felt the crush of crowds that many others have noted? UPDATE...WOW!
I need to change my position....I just finished the Camino Primitivo ( every bit as beautiful as they say and maybe even a bit more challenging than I expected ) .
Maybe because I stayed in Pensiones, casa rurals, etc....I only saw 11 people on my entire walk 'til Melide....Cripes, then they came out of the woodwork....hundreds of them!
I still believe that everyone is entitled to their own version of the Camino but it really was a shocker from Melide to Santiago. There were always at least 20-30 folks in view.
They had every right to be there but it is time for me to find some other routes!
My Caminos will always stay in my heart!,
Buen Camino, all!
Interested to hear that Brendan. I walked Primitivo finishing almost exactly 2 years ago. And shared your experience of few on the Primitivo and certainly no bed issues. And I loved it. And yes, arriving in Arzua was a shock to the system, but I had arranged to coincide with three friends there for the last couple of days, which was great.
BUT I know from watching the forum thereafter that things changed very rapidly on Primitivo and even before the end of May last year there was a bed race developing........and people complaining of accommodation problems. I think I was lucky with the weather last year. I would do it again in early May for the solitude, but would be sorry if the weather interfered with the views.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I hope to do it in Sept, but I finish in Lugo and then bus it to Santiago. It sounds as though it may be a little busier which I don't mind as I sometimes like to see a figure with a rucksack in the distance or even just in front!
Thanks Brendan for mentioning how beautiful it is. I will just ignore the "maybe a bit more challenging than I expected" bit!!!
 
We've been telling you... The Frances has become a different animal. But apparently people don't want to believe it.

A word of caution to those wondering about the bed race, about how many carry backpacks, etc., before trusting what you read here, make sure yo take a look at the date of the poster's last walk :D.
 
@Scott Peters , take some really deep breaths. Then take a few days, minimum, paying attention to what you do in your current, pre-camino, life. Think hard about whats good and what isn't. Write lists: pros, cons, neutrals. Then have a big think about what you want out of the camino: a life changing experience; an easy hike in lovely countryside; a chance to think without every-day life interrupting; a chance to party with all sorts of amazing people from all around the globe.

Then think very, very hard about what it is you are really scared of - how well would you cope with a day with no-one to talk to who speaks your language; what if you were all alone in a strange building for the night (safe, just alone); how long can you queue at the bar before it all gets too much; how disastrous would it be if you can't get a bed in your first pick Albergue but have to go somewhere else; what if someone tells you you are not a real pilgrim because...

By the way there are no, or rather few, rules on the camino. And there is definitely no rule that says that you have to walk the Frances first. In May there will be many pilgrims on the Norte. In May there will always be a bed on the Frances - and room at the bar.

If you want to walk to Santiago start in Leon, or Oviedo, or Porto. But try hard to understand why you want to do it then your camino experience will be real, for you.

And when you have figured out why you want to walk camino take a few deep breaths, pick up your pack and walk.
Hello,
I appreciate what you have stated. I am looking for a more isolated route. I have completed my Camino Frances 2017. I walked from June 3rd to July 7th. I learned alot of lessons about myself and others. I learned how nervous I was in the beginning so much so that I attached myself to someone and ended up overwhelming them. When I had no choice, I did very well on my own. I did have one incident where I had to call the police. However, that is not deterring me from doing the Camino del Norte. I will remember your words that you gave. Very honest and true. Thank you.
 
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