Notes on the Levante

[Kevin F. O*brien]

Hello everyone, Kari and I arrived in Santiago on the 28th of May. I started in Valencia on the 10th of April and she joined me north of Toledo on the 1st of May. Thanks so much to all who provided info. We used Andy's list of accommodation and distances. Took and used a lot of advice from Eamonn and Johnnie. We had the Valencia Amigos guide (English) with maps as well. It is pretty good but they occasionally left out things - like the fact that the Motorway A66 round Zamora was not marked !! Ivar if you read this could you tell me how to load up a file. The Camino from Zamora to Astorga was wonderful - absolute must if anyone has the time. We met only four pilgrims from Valencia to Astorga so joining the Frances was a bit special, but we enjoyed that too. If someone can send me the instructions I can type out a list or two.
Best to all,
Kari and Kevin

 

[andy.d]

Good to hear it went well,

Andy

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Kevin,

Your posting on Hel and Scott's thread reminded me that I sort of lost track of you and and Kari and your Levante adventure. I was walking during the month of June and never saw this post, for instance.

I see that there is some good info on the Levante section, and I know Johnniewalker has a lot of info on his blog, but my first question before I go any further in my camino dreaming is whether people think it's do-able with a limit of 6 weeks walking. That's the maximum my family will tolerate, I'm afraid.

I also see that some of those stages Andy did are really long. Though I use miles in my daily life, I always think of my caminos in kms, but I think that 27 miles is way above my limit. I can do 38 or 40 kms in a pinch, but really prefer to keep the daily totals to 25-30 kms a day. Andy's got lots of stages that range from 26-30 miles -- do you have a list of your stages, Kevin?

Thanks to anyone who has walked this route and cares to post stages. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[andy.d]

Laurie,

some of he folk who have walked more recently will be able to answer you better, but here are a few thoughts:

As you will know, circumstances meant I missed the section between Toledo and Zamora (after which I walked the Sanabria unlike Kevin's route via Benevente). I was expecting to take 7 or 8 weeks.

Most of the more than 40km stages I walked would have been possible to avoid. As someone has mentioned, it is possible to divert to find shelter half way through the mammoth stage to Higueruela (I got lost on this stage which added a couple of km's) (John also found water part way through, so you can carry less).

From memory, the stage for Albacete was long, and also the one into Toledo. You could easily break these with the bus if you wanted. I think there must be a shorter route into Toledo - the Camino seems to add some mileage, but it brings you in so that you crest a hill and are face to face with the El Greco view of Toledo (to my mind, more than worth the sweating).

You could also walk through La Mancha must faster than I did. I did some short stages to recover from some longer ones and also because I wanted to see some things.

Hope this helps,

Andy

 

[JohnnieWalker]

I agree. I think that 6 weeks is tight Laurie to be honest. I left 50 days aside and used all of that albeit with a couple of days to look around Toledo and Avila.

A lot of what has been said about this route is true. The infrastructure is underdeveloped and there aren't many albergues, walking pilgrims are a rare sight, waymarking is great in parts but you have to way find in others (the maps provided with the Amigos guide are excellent) - but it is an epic route with incredible vistas and some challenges. I found the local people incredibly friendly and respectful. This route is currently what I imagine the Camino Frances to have been 30 - 40 years ago. If you can squeeze a little extra time don't hesitate - go for it.

John

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you both so much for the information, I am sure that if I pursue this you will be hearing lots more from me.

I have been searching on the Spanish websites for information and found the Association's webpage. They list a 42 day itinerary, coincidentally, from Valencia to Santiago. I know I took 17 days from Zamora to Santiago, rather than the 15 they suggest, so I think you both are probably right that I should plan no less than 48 or 49 days. That's one week longer, but maybe I can slide that by my family without their knowledge.

Do these stages look realistic to you? The Gronze web page says that the Association frequently underestimates the distances, so I'm a bit leery. http://www.caminosantiago.org/cpperegri ... aminoId=14

Thanks so much, Laurie

p.s. On that website, they say the distance of the Camino de Levante is 863 kms. That number seems high if it is referring only to Valencia to Zamora, but low if it is referring to Valencia to Santiago. Do you have any guesses on total distance from Valencia to Santiago? a rough estimate on google maps suggests it's about 1100, which would put it in the same general range as the Vdlp from Sevilla.

 

[Kevin F. O*brien]

Hi Laurie and lovely to hear from you. Haha so it's the Levante next! I really admire you. To answer your last question first. It is definitely 49 days from Valencia to Santiago. You must have at least two rest days, if not more. Toledo requires at least one day, also possibly Avila and Zamora. The distance/time is the same if you walk the well marked Camino from Granja de Morureula via Benavente to Astorga- or - if you walk from Zamora on the Sanabres, noting that by that time the day stages had become fairly long. The actual distance from Valencia to Santiago is between 1100 and 1200 km depending on whether you use the Sanabres or the Frances.
I will have a look at your link today and get back to you on the stages.

Best,

Kev

 

[evanlow]

http://pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk/routes/details/levante.html

Laurie,

It's 801.01 km to Zamora.

I'm also contemplating on doing the Levante next. Probably this time on a bike as I won't be able to get that many days off again.

 

[peregrina2000]

Ok, here are my questions for today --

I see that the Sureste goes from Alicante and runs very near the Levante. But I haven't seen anything on this forum about the Camino de Sureste. Did those of you who walked the Levante explore the differences?

And, Kevin, you said somewhere that the stage from Benavente to Astorga is terrific. Can you elaborate, because when I walked the Vdlp I took the Sanabres at Zamora precisely because I was told that from Granja de Moruela to the Frances was not so nice. I take it your opinion is different.

Thanks much, Laurie

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hola - yes the Camino Levante and the Camino Sureste touch and cross over at points. Attention has to be paid to this - I took a wrong turning (walking with Rebekah actually) leaving Medina del Campo. The problem was I didn't pay attention to the guide and simply followed way marks. With a little more care there will be no problem! There are a number of other routes along the Levante such as the Don Quixote.

John

 

[andy.d]

Hi Laurie,

when I was planning, someone - and I can't for the life of me remember who - was trying to persuade me to walk the Sureste on the grounds of historicity. I went for the Levante because it was my first Camino and I wanted to walk a route with a guide and information about accommodation and the like. There was some basic information on the Sureste (and this is going back four years or so) on the web. Also, the bits of the Sureste that coincide with the Levante are well marked.

Andy

 

[peregrina2000]

hi, andy,
There is some information on a Spanish forum that echoes your observation about the Alicante route being more historical, whereas the route from Valencia is essentially a GR route that the amigos have promoted as an alternative camino. From the spanish forum, I got a link to this page on the Sureste, http://caminodelsureste.es.tl/

It looks like there is a guide now as well. I think the Sureste has its own camino angels, because the mundicamino section on the sureste notes the contributions of several individuals.

I see that the two coincide a bit, and for me one of the advantages of the Levante is that it links with the Sanabres rather than the Frances as the Sureste does, but I'm sure that the two are so close that moving back and forth wouldn't be an insurmountable burden.

Having all the first hand help on the Levante is a real advantage, also.

Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. Andy, your blog says at the top something to this effect: "for the Camino de levante, click on Sept, Oct, Nov of 2009." But I can't see where to click on those dates. Can you help this techno-idiot out?