Number of people along the way

[bhovers]

I've figured out how to squeeze in 6 days of hiking the Camino, but I've had a tough time deciding which route to take.

The Camino Frances (Sarria- Santiago) has been recommended far more than any other trail, in part because of my short time frame. I've read that it's the most popular route, leading me to believe it must be quite special & beautiful. But I'm concerned about crowds/ large numbers of people on the route, especially the last couple days going into Santiago. I scanned the forum and didn't see this addressed: how busy is it on this route? Are there sections where you don't see any others on the trail or are groups of people always in view?

We're considering the Camino Portuguese, which would be quieter, but the elevation isn't as high and we prefer hiking higher plus the itinerary didn't look as interesting to me. It is probably a wonderful itinerary, but it's so hard to get a feel for by reading about it.

We also looked into the Camino Ingles, another quiet trail, but decided against it.

We hiked through the Alps last year and experienced long distances with no others around. It's always fun to run into another hiker when you haven't seen anyone in awhile, but I also don't want to hike the trail with lots of others in view. I'm just trying to gauge how popular and busy the Camino Frances would be as that's my only concern.

We're going in early June and don't mind getting an early start each day to miss the crowds.
Thanks!

 

[CaptBuddy]

If you want a Compostela, its got to be Sarria for the Frances. If you just want a great 6 day adventure, the choices are many.
The Pyrenees is beautiful (should be a snap for Alps walkers), and Pamplona is super.
La Rioja is great, with Logroño and nice villages to see. Gorgeous vistas of the rolling farm land.
Or you could go to Burgos and walk to Sahagun, to see the best of the Meseta. Other worldly.
Or stick with Sarria. Galicia is really nice, and you will not be lonely.
There seems to be more people every year, and I think every month is now a busy season.
I have a friend in Spain who has taken to walking Ourense to Santiago every year, and he loves it. My wife and I will do that next I think.
Buen Viaje.

 

[Maryimelda]

Why not investigate starting in Lugo. It's a wonderfully historic town and fulfils the 100km requirement to earn your compostela.

Buen Camino.

 

[bhovers]

Why not investigate starting in Lugo. It's a wonderfully historic town and fulfils the 100km requirement to earn your compostela.

Buen Camino.

Thanks for the great suggestion! The elevation profile looks good: nice and hilly. And likely much quieter.

 

[Maryimelda]

Thanks for the great suggestion! The elevation profile looks good: nice and hilly. And likely much quieter.

My son is doing the Frances from SJPDP and like you is a bit wary about too many people on the road from Sarria. That is why he has decided to go from Sarria to Lugo and continue on to SDC from there. The road does rejoin the Camino Frances in a place called Melinde (don't know if I've got that right but something similar I think). He is hoping that the crowds may have thinned out a bit by then. That might just be a pipe dream but we can only hope. Buen camino.

 

[scruffy1]

Early start? How early? Some of my worst memories on the Camino involve early risers kerthumping around in the dark, waking people up at godawful hours of the night, and finishing off their performance by blinding their neighbors by flashing all about with their headlights - not considered bad form since so many do it is also not the best way to make friends and influence people.The Camino is well marked but at 0500 in the fog or rain one can easily miss an arrow and find oneself 4 kilometers up the wrong valley. Sarria to Santiago can easily be done in six days, don't rush walk to enjoy the Camino.

 

[tyrrek]

I'd also recommend Ourense to Santiago at the end of the Via de la Plata. I walked it in May last year and really enjoyed it. On day 1 I didn't meet any other pilgrims until I arrived in Cea, so it's definitely possible to find solitude or company as you please. Ourense is on the railway line between Madrid and Santiago so is very easy to get to. The monastery at Oseira is a highlight. Buen Camino!

 

[jsalt]

We're going in early June and don't mind getting an early start each day to miss the crowds.

Hi, walking in the afternoons between Sarria and Santiago is so much quieter than the mornings. Let everybody else get up early and rush off madly. Enjoy your café con leche after 8am and enjoy a leisurely breakfast. Even in July it wasn’t particularly hot when I walked, and if it is, just sit out the siesta in the shade, or use that time for your main meal of the day (like the Spanish do), and then walk on, and you’ll have the paths to yourself. I never had a problem getting a bed late in the day. Jill

 

[Mark Lee]

Hi, walking in the afternoons between Sarria and Santiago is so much quieter than the mornings. Let everybody else get up early and rush off madly. Enjoy your café con leche after 8am and enjoy a leisurely breakfast. Even in July it wasn’t particularly hot when I walked, and if it is, just sit out the siesta in the shade, or use that time for your main meal of the day (like the Spanish do), and then walk on, and you’ll have the paths to yourself. I never had a problem getting a bed late in the day. Jill

Good philosophy.
I started very early while still dark 3-4 times while walking my first Camino and then I realized how absurd it was walking in the dark by flashlight, in some sort of silly rush not being able to see the beautiful countryside. After that I took my time in the mornings. Smelled the proverbial roses.

 

[Gillean]

My son is doing the Frances from SJPDP and like you is a bit wary about too many people on the road from Sarria. That is why he has decided to go from Sarria to Lugo and continue on to SDC from there. The road does rejoin the Camino Frances in a place called Melinde (don't know if I've got that right but something similar I think). He is hoping that the crowds may have thinned out a bit by then. That might just be a pipe dream but we can only hope. Buen camino.

From Melide to Lugo on the Camino Primitivo the pilgrim traffic should be pretty light compared to the Camino Frances. But once he rejoins the Camino Frances in Melide he will be back in the big river of pilgrims. In fact with the Camino Primitivo joining in Melide and the Camino del Norte joining in Arzua the traffic may even be slightly heavier. One way to at least partially beat the traffic might be to phone ahead to book an albergue and then walk later in the day. If I remember correctly the camino seems to be mostly empty after 2:00 pm.

 

[bhovers]

I'm still trying to choose my route for the 6 days I'll have to walk the Camino in early June (wish it was longer but I have work and family obligations....). Because I'm an avid hiker, I'm not worried about mileage or hills. I've decided to book hotels so competing for a bed will not be a problem. I'm simply trying to settle on a route that isn't jammed with people. Reading comments about the "big river of pilgrims", "crowds may have thinned out a bit", "you will not be lonely" have caused me concern. Yet I look at people's photos and see very few people on the tracks/ roads. I know this isn't a remote region so I fully expect to see lots of others in villages, along roadways and at cathedrals. But I also don't want people on my heels all day when I'm out in the countryside walking along the trails and dirt tracks. Should I choose the Via de La Plata (Ourense-Santiago) to get the crowd-free experience or will there be some solitude on the Camino Primitivo (Lugo-Santiago)? The Camino Frances (Sarria-Santiago) has also been recommended by many and is the most popular, leading me to think that it must be very special. Because it's popularity I've been wary of doing it, but perhaps I'm over-focused on avoiding the crowds? I would like to get the Compostela so that's why I'm focused on these three routes in particular.

 

[tyrrek]

I'm still trying to choose my route for the 6 days I'll have to walk the Camino in early June (wish it was longer but I have work and family obligations....). Because I'm an avid hiker, I'm not worried about mileage or hills. I've decided to book hotels so competing for a bed will not be a problem. I'm simply trying to settle on a route that isn't jammed with people. Reading comments about the "big river of pilgrims", "crowds may have thinned out a bit", "you will not be lonely" have caused me concern. Yet I look at people's photos and see very few people on the tracks/ roads. I know this isn't a remote region so I fully expect to see lots of others in villages, along roadways and at cathedrals. But I also don't want people on my heels all day when I'm out in the countryside walking along the trails and dirt tracks. Should I choose the Via de La Plata (Ourense-Santiago) to get the crowd-free experience or will there be some solitude on the Camino Primitivo (Lugo-Santiago)? The Camino Frances (Sarria-Santiago) has also been recommended by many and is the most popular, leading me to think that it must be very special. Because it's popularity I've been wary of doing it, but perhaps I'm over-focused on avoiding the crowds? I would like to get the Compostela so that's why I'm focused on these three routes in particular.

I don't think Sarria to Santiago is particularly special, other than being the end of the 'classic' route. It has lots of albergues, which make it accessible to those of all abilities, so is practical in that sense.

However none of the classic Camino Frances locations are on that stretch, except perhaps Monte de Gozo on the edge of Santiago. Even then, the first sight of the cathedral towers is much better from the VDLP.

On other routes pilgrims are still something of a novelty. Just outside Ourense a woman stopped me to put 50c in my hand and ask me to light a candle for her in Santiago. If she did that outside Sarria she'd be broke before she got to the shop! ;-) Don't get me wrong, I'd happily walk from Sarria anytime, but from what you've said, I think you'd enjoy it more at a quieter time of year.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Absolutely. The only reason Sarria to Santiago is popular is certainly not because it is beautiful but because it is the shortest distance that allows you to get Compostela. You will see many many people, in front and back of you non stop and no cathedrals. Actually, nor villages, just a lot of walking paralel to a main road.

If you do not care about a Compostela or getting to Santiago, you have gotten a good number of suggestions of which I would suggest SJPP to Logrono, the capital of Spanish wine making. You will cross into Spain on a beautiful stretch of mountain (route Napoleon) then walk through fields of wheat, poppies and vines. There is a stretch so beautiful there that it brings me to tears everytime, over seeing the land below, with wheat dancing in the wheat, just after having rested at Uterga and that takes you to Puente la Reina (but since you are a good walker please take the detour to Eunate, a church linked to the Templar Knights, and is said to be modelled on the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. And then go back to Logrono next year and walk to Burgos ;0)

Now, you've stated the Compostela is important, so Ourense is mountainous and will get you the Compostela. You could also do the Muxia-Fisterre-Santiago bit. That's roughly 5 days. Take a look at it here: http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/epilogo-a-fisterra/
Just do it backwards. You will then have walked to three of the most memorable stops on the Caminos.

And please, follow the advice that has been given to you about sleeping in, taking your time, letting everyone out on their way instead of waking everyone up - or else you may sit on your own at the next cafe ;0)

 

[bhovers]

Thank you for responding. Your description of the French Way seals it for me. I think I'll do the Via de la Plata instead (although the section you describe sounds lovely). No worries, I'll be respectful and thoughtful of other pilgrims.

 

[Adhemar78]

I walked from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago last year and it was noticeable how much busier the Camino got after Sarria. Prior to Sarria there were bits of the Camino where there weren't many people about or you felt like you were walking on your own, but I don't remember many moments like that after Sarria. And that was in the second half of October, so I imagine there would be even more people on the trail in June.