Obtaining a Credencial before Vezelay

[jl]

Hello everyone, I am in the final throes of organizing my next Camino, and am having trouble answering 2 questions. The first is where I might obtain my Credencial. I will make my way from Paris to Troyes, and from there onto Bar-sur-Seine. Does anyone know if it is possible to get one at Bar-sur-Seine?

My next question is related to the above, does anyone happen to know how one gets from Troyes (apart from walking - which I am starting to think it might have to be!) to Bar-sur-Seine, which is where I wanted to begin my pilgrimage.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thanks, Janet

 

[Bridget and Peter]

I would not expect to get a credential in Bar-sur- Seine - there wasn't that sort of stuff about prior to Vezelay. We have a CSJ credential. Another option would be to make one yourself for the first bit, and ask for one at the office of the Amis de voie de Vezelay in Vezelay. (Look for the mannequin dressed as a pilgrim outside a shop and go through the shop and up a ricketty stair case).

Have you tried the tourist office in Troyes for information about buses to Bar-sur-Seine? I have found email addresses for local offices de tourisme on line and emailed (in English) and got helpful replies several times.

B s S is 34 km from Troyes, so at a pinch I don't suppose a taxi would be an awful lot.

Does it have to be Bar sur Seine? I think I may have rhapsodied before about Chaource - the church there has masses of stuff no-one should miss - incredibly moving C16 Christ being laid in the tomb, wall paintings, early wooden nativity including a camel with long neck like a giraffe, a wonderful painting of St James, of St Nicholas, of the holy family's visit to the temple, etc etc. Chaource is about the same distance from Troyes as Bar sur Seine, about 21 k westish of B s S. The GR 645 (if thats what you are following) route goes in between the two, only about 12 k from Chaource.

 

[surlechemin]

There are virtually no pilgrim-related services before Vezelay, so you would have to obtain a credential before you start your camino. There is, however, a daily but somewhat infrequent bus service between Bar-sur-Seine and Troyes.
It is also not easy to find accomodation between Bar-Sur-Seine and Chablis. Why don't you start at Vézélay?

 

[AJ]

I have been informed that the Amis in Vezelay require you to join the association before they will issue a credencial. It may be possible to get one from the cathedral.

 

[jl]

Thank you for your replies - I will see about getting a credecnial elsewhere then. Basically I am starting before Vezelay becasue I have some extra time and am using those days to walk rather than catching buses etc around the country. Bridget, I am checking out Chaource, but don't forget that "only 20kms" on a bike takes considerably less time than when one walks! Surlechemin do you know if there is a daily bus to Chaource also, or if it is possible to walk from Troyes? Many thanks Janet

 

[Bridget and Peter]

Bridget, I am checking out Chaource, but don't forget that "only 20kms" on a bike takes considerably less time than when one walks!

I was thinking you don't have to follow every step of the GR654. It does have a habit of going all round the houses - I've heard people say that the GR routes are ramblers'/hikers' routes - where going round three sides of a square is good because you are walking for the love of walking. Whereas pilgrims are aiming to get somewhere, so shouldn't be so indulgent, or wasteful of their energy, because they have a goal to reach.

Looking at the IGN 1:100,000 maps (22 and 28), there is a red dotted line going through Chaource labelled GRP. It seems to have two southwards going routes (perhaps its circular). One leaves Chaource in a just east of south direction and goes through a village called Lagesse, from where you could take a footpath to join the other bit , then through Chesley and on to connect with the 654 near Etourvy , from where it makes its way to Tonnerre via Melisey and Epineuil. (Page 171 of the topoguide). ( Ah !- in the topoguide the GRP is named - GRP des Vins et Fromages.)

Etourvy seems to have a foyer rural to stay in, and I guess it's about 12 - 15 km from Chaource- sometimes the footpath goes on a wander when the minor road ( and these were very minor and quiet when we were cycling on them) takes a straighter line. From Etourvy to Tonnerre is about 22 km according to the topoguide.

We didn't follow the 654 to Auxerre. or even Chablis, but took a more direct line to Vezelay as we wanted to be there for Sunday to worship in the basilica.

Forgive me for being so detailed - it's my love of maps coming out - any excuse to get them out and pour over them and I turn into a boring 'anorak'! You can, of course, do exactly what you like!!!

 

[surlechemin]

Surlechemin do you know if there is a daily bus to Chaource also, or if it is possible to walk from Troyes? Many thanks Janet

Sorry, I don't. We walked from Bar-sur-Seine via Bragelogne (gite operated by champagne vintners ) to Tonnerre and from there on to Chablis and Auxerre.

Bon chemin!

 

[Paulus]

..... Whereas pilgrims are aiming to get somewhere, so shouldn't be so indulgent, or wasteful of their energy, because they have a goal to reach.....

Bridget/Peter,

IMHO: Santiago is NOT the goal.....................the Way is the goal.............. :?

 

[Bridget and Peter]

I've heard people say

I was being a bit tongue in cheek. Personally I am in no hurry to reach the end of our pilgrimage from East Anglia to Santiago via Vezelay; the Way is sufficiently satisfying for us.

But, those GR routes do go up and down, round and about in the most profligate fashion, and there is a big difference between for example the route as laid down by M et Mde Chassain ( http://www.amis-saint-jacques-de-compostelle.asso.fr/ ) and the GR 654. I do believe that the earlier pilgrims in whose steps we (approximately) follow would probably not have taken a longer and steeper route where a more direct and level one was available.