October on the Rota Vicentina

[LesBrass]

I'm not quite on the Rota yet but I'm starting this now because I know I won't have time to post again until we get to Lisbon.

My bag is packed and ready, we fly out on Saturday and take the bus to Santiago do Cacém on Sunday... ready to start walking on Monday 9th. Unlike any camino, I've already booked our accommdodation in advance... our stages will be :

• Santiago do Cacém – Vale Seco
• Vale Seco – Cercal do Alentejo
• Cercal do Alentejo – Porto Covo
• Porto Covo – Vila Nova de Milfontes
• Vila Nova de Milfontes – Almograve
• Almograve – Zambujeira do Mar
• Zambujeira do Mar – Odeceixe
• Odeceixe – Aljezur
• Aljezur – Arrifana
• Arrifana – Carrapateira
• Carrapateira – Vila do Bispo
• Vila do Bispo – Cabo de S. Vicente **

I've copied notes from other folks here and I've downloaded the pdf guides on the Rota Website... I've been following them on Facebook too and I see they've been busy updating markers in September and working to maintain the paths. I'm really looking forward to this walk... albeit I'm a little nervous about some of the cliff walking but fingers crossed I'll cope!

I keep a blog when I'm walking but I'll also try my best to drop by each day and update on our progress... and to collect any words of wisdom from you good folks!

See you all on Monday!

** Edited with correct stops **

 

[peregrina2000]

Looking forward to hearing all about it. I will be in Portugal in late February, not for walking, and I know my husband is keen to spend a few days on the coast. We've been to the Algarve so many times that I am not too excited at that prospect. We have done some exploring of the costa vicentina and I think we will probably end up there, but I will enjoy all your reflections on which places you like the best.

Have a great walk, Les!

 

[Kiwi-family]

Could you please pop up a link to your blog in this thread? Pretty please.

 

[LesBrass]

Could you please pop up a link to your blog in this thread? Pretty please.

I will! I was very remiss on the VdlP and I regret that a little ... as often folks here can often add useful bits of knowledge and information.

Here's the starting point... and I'll try to drop by each evening when we're walking

https://caminobrassblog.wordpress.com/2017/10/05/watching-the-clock/#more-7482

 

[edandjoan]

I was just thinking of you last night and knew when I got up this morning I wanted to check to see if you were on your way. I'll head over to your blog. Hope all is going well.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, LesBrass,
Just to add that there are some pretty nice, but not spectacular, Roman ruins nearby in Mirobriga, which would require some kind of transport. But there is an ancient carving of Santiago inside a local church. My memory of this is fading and I can't remember many details, but I visited it years ago and learned that yes this town was a stopping point on the route up to Santiago from the South of Portugal. ENJOY!

 

[LTfit]

Santiago do Cacém - Vale Seco
Vale Seco - Cercal do Alentejo
Cercal do Alentejo - S. Luís
S. Luís - Odemira
Odemira - S. Teotónio
S. Teotónio - Odeceixe
Odeceixe - Aljezur
Aljezur - Arrifana
Arrifana - Carrapateira
Carrapateira - Vila do Bispo
Vila do Bispo - Cabo de S. Vicente

Oh how exciting, I certainly hope you enjoy the Rota as much as I did! Although I also started in Santiago do Cacém, I crossed over to the coast (following the Fisherman's Way) after Cercal. This part of Portugal has jaw-dropping coastline - so pristine and quiet!

Have a wonderful walk!

 

[LesBrass]

Oh how exciting, I certainly hope you enjoy the Rota as much as I did! Although I also started in Santiago do Cacém, I crossed over to the coast (following the Fisherman's Way) after Cercal. This part of Portugal has jaw-dropping coastline - so pristine and quiet!

Have a wonderful walk!

EEk! Good job you said that or I would have been mighty confused in a few days time! We are also switching across after Cercal/Portp Covo

This is what we are really doing...

• Santiago do Cacém – Vale Seco
• Vale Seco – Cercal do Alentejo
• Cercal do Alentejo – Porto Covo
• Porto Covo – Vila Nova de Milfontes
• Vila Nova de Milfontes – Almograve
• Almograve – Zambujeira do Mar
• Zambujeira do Mar – Odeceixe
• Odeceixe – Aljezur
• Aljezur – Arrifana
• Arrifana – Carrapateira
• Carrapateira – Vila do Bispo
• Vila do Bispo – Cabo de S. Vicente

I have printed off the right list in my pack with the correct pdf's and hotel bookings but it would no doubt have given me a moment of panic

 

[edandjoan]

Oh how exciting, I certainly hope you enjoy the Rota as much as I did! Although I also started in Santiago do Cacém, I crossed over to the coast (following the Fisherman's Way) after Cercal. This part of Portugal has jaw-dropping coastline - so pristine and quiet!

Have a wonderful walk!

When did you walk? Do you have a blog or journal about your adventure?
We will be a couple weeks behind the other couple, starting in Santiago do Cacem and crossing to the Fishermans route day three, I think. We have not made many reservations only the first two nights.

 

[LesBrass]

When did you walk? Do you have a blog or journal about your adventure?
We will be a couple weeks behind the other couple, starting in Santiago do Cacem and crossing to the Fishermans route day three, I think. We have not made many reservations only the first two nights.

@edandjoan ... I think we're doing the same... crossing at Day 3... I was just having a moment of madness on my first post... I'll edit it

 

[LTfit]

When did you walk? Do you have a blog or journal about your adventure?
We will be a couple weeks behind the other couple, starting in Santiago do Cacem and crossing to the Fishermans route day three, I think. We have not made many reservations only the first two nights.

No blog but if you look through the threads in the Rota section you will find my stages. I walked in March 2015. There were surfer's hostels all the way which were wonderful and cheap. Small dorms with sheets, towels and kitchens! I didn't reserve at all as the surfing season was over.

Some find the first days on the coast a challenge as there is a lot of sand but the scenery makes up for it.

Most walk from the Cabo and go north but I did the opposite as I have a friend who lives in Raposeira, a stones throw away from Vila do Bispo and slept at her house the night I arrived in Carrapateira, Vila do Bispo and San Vicente (she picked me up).

I would go back and do it over again any time!

 

[Kiwi-family]

Thanks for the link - it’s now in Feedly.

 

[LesBrass]

Greetings from Santiago de Cacem! We are settled in our guest house and ready to start walking in the morning.

It's surprisingly warm still... 30c at 2.30 this afternoon. We've asked for breakfast at 7.00 as the sun rises just after 7.30... we can make the most of the cool morning's.

We will go for a wander later and find the start... then have an early dinner. I'm feeling quite excited now we're here.
https://caminobrassblog.wordpress.com/2017/10/08/little-tremors/
https://caminobrassblog.wordpress.com/2017/10/08/little-tremors/

 

[edandjoan]

Did you take the bus from the airport into Lisbon and another bus to Santiago do Cacem? If so haw did that go?

Sorry read your blog. I see how you traveled.

 

[LesBrass]

@edandjoan it was very easy and a nice trip. We took the bus to setubal from the Oriente bus station at parques do nacaos You get your ticket on the bus. We prebooked our ticket to cacem from setubal before we left home. I got all timetables and links on the Rome2rio website.

We are having a beer and icecream break at Vale Seco . .. it is very very hot. Sadly I also skidded down a steep bit and cut up my knee... will be glad to be done today

 

[Turga]

Ouch! Looks bad. Hope you are able to continue....

 

[edandjoan]

Oh so sorry. Hope that feels better and you will be able to walk okay. Looks like you will have some heat for a few more days. I look forward to following you blog.

 

[LesBrass]

Just a quick update. We had no WiFi or signal yesterday but all is well. Beautiful walk this morning. My knee is sore but there is a pharmacy in the next town where we can stock up on first aid supplies.

Will post more later but taking advantage of signal... but fabulous morning so far

 

[PilgrimPillar]

Maybe you are aware of this....maybe not....

After you sign up on the official website you guys have full acces to INTERACTIVE maps .....showing your relative position to the track at all times ....with your phone

One other thing.....once you hit loose sand your walking speed will go down by 50%.....good to bear in mind for the days ahead

I loved this coastline....I'm going back!!

 

[edandjoan]

Maybe you are aware of this....maybe not....

After you sign up on the official website you guys have full acces to INTERACTIVE maps .....showing your relative position to the track at all times ....with your phone

One other thing.....once you hit loose sand your walking speed will go down by 50%.....good to bear in mind for the days ahead

I really like all the information on the web site, but unless I have a data plan I won't be able to access it while walking....right?
Also the slowing of pace is interesting and I will keep that in mind. We will be starting in 10 days.

 

[PilgrimPillar]

I really like all the information on the web site, but unless I have a data plan I won't be able to access it while walking....right?
Also the slowing of pace is interesting and I will keep that in mind. We will be starting in 10 days.

I think it operates on GPS functions alone. I had data roaming but my thought was that I drew nothing from my dataplan. Try it out is my suggestion. It's very good. (BUT YOU HAVE TO SIGN UP AT NO COST)

 

[LesBrass]

We've made it to Porto Covo. We had a beautiful walk today with a breakfast stop after 6km and lunch 4km from the end. Gosh it really makes a difference! It's still very hot and we're making full use of our uv umbrellas. We've been told tomorrow is one of the hardest days walking in the sand... but the views are amazing and I'm very much looking forward to this section.

We've not seen very many other walkers but the Chao in our hostel said 80% of folks walk north and a great many finish here in Porto Covo... so perhaps we will see more folks from now on.

This is the first day of walking in my blog if anyone wanted to know more...

caminobrassblog.wordpress.com/2017/10/09/happy-birthday/

 

[edandjoan]

Following along and gleaning information as you go. Hope your walk gets better and better.

 

[LesBrass]

So our first day on the Fisherman's Trail did not go to plan at all. The cut in my leg has become infectious and we had to seek some medical intervention. My knee was cleaned and dressed earlier and we have to return again at 6.00pm tonight and again in the morning.

I find it really hard to bend my knee at the moment so I'm not sure how easy it will be to continue along the cliff path. This morning there was a fair amount of little ups and downs... it wasnt physically demand at all but needed dexterity that I just don't have at the moment.

An American couple told us tomorrow was a flater path but another couple said there was a rope ladder and a place where they had to scramble down on their bottoms...my knee just won't allow this kind of movement.

@PlutseligPilegrim or @LTfit ... or anyone else who knows the next few stages... how difficult is the terrain? If you have a knee that doesn't bend? Walking is fine but anything like a step is tricky?

Obviously I'm a bit gutted right now

 

[jsalt]

Hi Colleen
My suggestion is to take a couple of rest days.
Then get off the Fishermen’s Trail and onto the Historical Trail – no wading through thick sand and clinging onto scarey cliff edges with a dodgy knee.
Good luck!
Jill

 

[peregrina2000]

So our first day on the Fisherman's Trail did not go to plan at all. The cut in my leg has become infectious and we had to seek some medical intervention. My knee was cleaned and dressed earlier and we have to return again at 6.00pm tonight and again in the morning.

I find it really hard to bend my knee at the moment so I'm not sure how easy it will be to continue along the cliff path. This morning there was a fair amount of little ups and downs... it wasnt physically demand at all but needed dexterity that I just don't have at the moment.

An American couple told us tomorrow was a flater path but another couple said there was a rope ladder and a place where they had to scramble down on their bottoms...my knee just won't allow this kind of movement.

@PlutseligPilegrim or @LTfit ... or anyone else who knows the next few stages... how difficult is the terrain? If you have a knee that doesn't bend? Walking is fine but anything like a step is tricky?

Obviously I'm a bit gutted right now

Hi, LesBrass, so sorry to hear this. I have had excellent medical treatment in Portugal, so I'm thinking you are in good hands.

I don't know this trail so I can't give you an opinion on the terrain, but if you are near the coast and the weather is good, a few days' R and R on the beach sounds good to me!

 

[LesBrass]

His folks thanks for the suggestions. I am actually feeling a bit under the weather now...I am seeing the doc again in the morning so we're staying here at least another day.

It is a beautiful place so a few days here will be good. And this hotel has a very comfy bed... this is not how I envisaged today

 

[jsalt]

Where are you? Still in Porto Covo, or Vila Nova de Milfontes?

 

[peregrina2000]

His folks thanks for the suggestions. I am actually feeling a bit under the weather now...I am seeing the doc again in the morning so we're staying here at least another day.

It is a beautiful place so a few days here will be good. And this hotel has a very comfy bed... this is not how I envisaged today

Good idea! I just saw that you are in Vila Nova de Milfontes, so make sure you eat in A Choupana, overlooking the beach, great simple food -- freshly caught grilled fish and fresh unadorned vegetables. Anyone in town can point you there, I have had several lovely meals there, years ago, but I'll bet it is still in operation.

 

[LesBrass]

Where are you? Still in Porto Covo, or Vila Nova de Milfontes?

We're in Vila Nova ... part walked and part taxi from Porto this morning. @peregrina2000 Gerry has been dreaming of a fish restaurant so I will let him know!

 

[edandjoan]

Sorry to hear about your health. Hope you will be able to continue soon.

 

[LesBrass]

I went back to the doctor today and looked the other away when the tweezers and scalpel came out... she said today she had the remove the unviable tissue.

I was really feeling quite ill last night and they felt today that it was because of the infection. Hopefully the antibiotics will take control and things will improve rapidly now. I feel that maybe we should have sought some proper help a day or two earlier... but hindsight is a wonderful thing.

I have to go back tomorow and possibly the day after. After today's treatment my knee is pretty painful... I'm beginning to wonder if I will be walking again in our remaining week

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, LesBrass,
Oh, I am so sorry to hear this news. I saw on your blog that you ate in A Choupana, I am glad it fit the bill! I think some of the lovely pics you have there are taken from the restaurant. (your pictures are really nice, btw).

I know how discouraging this is, but it really sounds like you are in good medical hands and walking with a sensible person who will restrain you from embarking on any crazy course of action like walking too early. Take care, and I hope that if there is a Plan B implemented you can just enjoy the coast whether you see it from a car or while walking. It is a beautiful part of Portugal!

 

[LesBrass]

Hello @peregrina2000 yes we took your advice and gerry was so happy... it was his perfect restaurant and Sea Bass one of his favourites.

I went back for more treatment this morning. They are happy with progress but I need at least 2 more visits as there is still sign of infection. But it's definitely better so that is good news.

We hired a car this morning. The plan is to follow the route as much as we can and keep our already booked hotels. We can explore each little area and take walks around without doing too much. And as we have the car it will be easy to get back to the clinic at vila nova.

We have met so many walkers here. Today there were Americans and Canadians. They all have their packs transported and in this heat and given the terrain I can see why it would be a good idea. It's nice to chat with other walkers... it's a nice community.

So I'm enjoying a cold drink looking across at Vila Nova from the other side of the estuary... we're going to have lunch in Almograve... and maybe walk for just an hour. This really is a beautiful place.

 

[Kanga]

Ah @LesBrass, sometimes the Camino decides you just need a holiday from the holiday. And a car is a wondrous thing sometimes!

 

[LesBrass]

Ah @LesBrass, sometimes the Camino decides you just need a holiday from the holiday. And a car is a wondrous thing sometimes!

Gerry is with you. He says he has found the heat difficult and he is still coughing... I did have a quiet word with St James a few days ago and whilst this wasn't the solution I was wishing for it is maybe the right one (and I have to heal as I start in Porto on 7th November!)

I am counting my blessings xx

 

[shefollowsshells]

His folks thanks for the suggestions. I am actually feeling a bit under the weather now...I am seeing the doc again in the morning so we're staying here at least another day.

It is a beautiful place so a few days here will be good. And this hotel has a very comfy bed... this is not how I envisaged today

Thoughts are with you for a speedy recovery!!!!

 

[LesBrass]

Just a little update.

We followed the Rota for a few days driving and walking and sight seeing where we could but we decided it wasn't such a good plan. I was still having to drive back to Vila Nova de Milefontes for my treatment so we rented a small studio apartment in the town for the remaining 5 days.

I went back to the clinic today... it's been a week since we first got here. They still have concerns about two areas and are thinking on Friday if there is still no improvement that they will cut away a little more unviable skin and stitch one area.

Whatever happens Friday will be my last appointment as we leave on Saturday... I can't believe how things have turned out for us but we have fallen in love with this town and the area... it's quite beautiful and we will come back for sure.

Safe walking folks!

 

[Kanga]

I am sorry to hear you have still not completely better @LesBrass. St James obviously wants you to sleep well and late, sit in the plaza, drink some coffee or red wine, eat some good food (including pastel de nata), read the paper, read a book, watch the local life go by, and relax. Sometimes you can't argue.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi @LesBrass, I'm just seeing this now. So sorry about your ordeal, but very impressed with how you made lemonade from those lemons that were thrown your way! It's good that Gerry was with you and that you were able to adapt your plans. However, I'm sure that you're disappointed not to be walking. Wishing you a speedy and uncomplicated recovery.