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LIVE from the Camino Off I go from Iglesia Santiago

#1
Caught an early flight so decided to start out today once I got my Camino de Madrid Credencial (their own) and first stamp.

It was breeze getting from Barajas to the Opera, the metro stop which is close to the church (Barajas-Nuevos Ministerios line 8, 7 stops, change to line 6 to Cuatro Caminos 1 stop then change to line 2 Las Rosas to the Opera 7 stops. All in all about 45-60 minutes.

Thanks to @peregrina2000 for the description of a nice walk from the church through Madrid to reach the Plaza de Castilla where the arrows start. It took me an hour and 20 minutes, about 6-7 km. From Plaza de Castilla till the outskirts of the city in Montecarmelo it was another hour. From then on you walk on lovely dirt paths. It was filled with wild flowers. Glad I did it.

Getting into Tres Cantos was not a problem (take the second red pasarela over the highway) but I must have messed up at the train station since I lost the arrows. It took me almost 30 minutes from the bridge to the ayuntamiento so I must have taken a roundabout route although I asked 4 people.

This is a heads-up for anyone wanting to sleep in the town hall: disregard the information in Gronze which says you can't get in till 22.30. This is definitely incorrect. I called from home yesterday and I was told that I could get in around 14.30. Since I only left the church at 12.00 I got in at 17.00. All the employees were gone but a nice security woman showed me around. The pilgrim room is in the basement with only 2 beds but 2 bathrooms. I see a folded up mattress so I guess three could sleep. You must be in by 21.00 as the police then take over. You must also be out by 6 a.m. but there is a churros place around the corner that is open from 5 - 14.00 so no need to leave in the dark or without a café con Leche.

No pilgrims in sight, just cyclers going in the opposite direction.

Will post if other things of interest to share. I will be following the stages I posted in Laurie's old thread with her "leisurely stages"

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#2
Wow, look at those new shoes!!!

I am always quick to point out when a forum member agrees with me ;) that it is a real pity to jump ahead and take a train to the suburbs. That means missing two very nice things -- the in-town walk from the church to the Plaza Castilla, and the amazingly painless exit from Madrid. No industry, no endless suburbs, no sewer treatment plants, just a quick trip under the M-40 ring road and there you are in the country, and with great views back to the city!!!

Tres Cantos is one of those totally planned "fake cities" created by developersand Franco era planners, nothing organic about it. But the people who live there seem to enjoy all of its conveniences, and I have had some good meals there as well.

LT, I know there has been some discussion about being locked in. Do you have an exit in case of some calamity?
 
#3
@peregrina2000 There is a policeeman on guard as of 9 p.m. so I assume I'm ok in case of calamity.

Yes, new Salomons but these are lighter than my previous ones so I hope they hold up.

Just added 2 more pictures but it takes ages to upload them.

Favorite picture of the day is from the city walk of those 2 skyscrapers. Love the reflection of the clouds in the glass, almost looks as if the building is part of the sky.
 

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#7
Here are the stages Lee had posted in my old thread. No trip to Ray and Rosa for her this time!

Day 1 Madrid - Tres Cantos 26 km
Day 2 Tres Cantos - Mataelpino 33 km
Day 3 Mataelpino - La Granja de San Ildefonso 35 km
Day 4 La Granja - Segovia 12 km (time to visit)
Day 5 Segovia - Santa Maria la Real de Nieva 33 km
Day 6 Santa Maria - ?Villeguillo 29 km
Day 7 Villeguillo - Puente Duero 42 km
Day 8 Puente Duero - Penaflor de Hornija 28 km
Day 9 Penaflor - Medina de Rioseco 25 km
Day 10 Medina - Villalon de Campos 27 km
Day 11 Villalon - Granjal de Campos 30 km (or Villalon - Sahagun 35 km)
 
#9
Sorry @Texas Bill @timr and @jsalt as Laurie said, I am now in Mataelpino enjoying my clara con limón with aceitunas while waiting for the hospitalero to open up the albergue. More later. View attachment 43358

Yesterday it was the bright blue shoes, today it's those pretty pink toes. What fashion statement do you have in store for us tomorrow?
 
#11
Now in the municipal albergue of Mataelpino which is just great! Clean, modern, sheets and equipped kitchen for €8! It is not only for pilgrims so the hospitalero advises to reserve, at least on the weekend, as non-Caminos groups sometimes reserve.

But back to Tres Cantos, part 2

At 21.30 2 pilgrims joined me. Normally no one is let in after 21.00 but the security guard saw them wandering outside and took pity. A nice American couple on their first Camino! They knew nothing about how this whole Camino thing works so they picked my brain. Camino 101. Camino 102 I left for the morning when I explained that using headlamps, fiddling with plastic bags, opening closing door repeatedly (light went on automatically), not silencing phone at night (ping, ping, ping) and letting alarm ring forever might not make them friends:D. Don't think I'll see them again but one never knows.

Note: the police did not kick us out at 6 a.m. and was extremely friendly when we left at 6.30. Café and churros place both open.

Today: Tres Cantos-Mataelpino 33 km

Take care leaving and entering Tres Cantos. If staying at the ayuntamiento take the third red pasarela and not the second as I did. The third was about 5 minutes from the Albergue. On the way out I passed the train station, took a bridge over then turned back to the left to follow the arrows to a dirt path. Most of the Camino follows GR 124 and you see the red/white signage with arrows or sometimes without. This is also a via pecuaria:

DSC_0563.JPG

Incredible walk, all dirt except for very minor periods in and out of town on asphalt. Lots of ups and downs, through Dehesas and crossing streams (granite blocks to cross like on the Plata). Purple and white wildflowers all over again rock formations and then the Sierra de Guardarrama. Tiring but very satisfying.

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gittiharre

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF Austria Czech Le Puy Geneva RLS V. Jacobi V. Regia V. Baltica/Scandinavica Porto Muxia
#12
Caught an early flight so decided to start out today once I got my Camino de Madrid Credencial (their own) and first stamp.

It was breeze getting from Barajas to the Opera, the metro stop which is close to the church (Barajas-Nuevos Ministerios line 8, 7 stops, change to line 6 to Cuatro Caminos 1 stop then change to line 2 Las Rosas to the Opera 7 stops. All in all about 45-60 minutes.

Thanks to @peregrina2000 for the description of a nice walk from the church through Madrid to reach the Plaza de Castilla where the arrows start. It took me an hour and 20 minutes, about 6-7 km. From Plaza de Castilla till the outskirts of the city in Montecarmelo it was another hour. From then on you walk on lovely dirt paths. It was filled with wild flowers. Glad I did it.

Getting into Tres Cantos was not a problem (take the second red pasarela over the highway) but I must have messed up at the train station since I lost the arrows. It took me almost 30 minutes from the bridge to the ayuntamiento so I must have taken a roundabout route although I asked 4 people.

This is a heads-up for anyone wanting to sleep in the town hall: disregard the information in Gronze which says you can't get in till 22.30. This is definitely incorrect. I called from home yesterday and I was told that I could get in around 14.30. Since I only left the church at 12.00 I got in at 17.00. All the employees were gone but a nice security woman showed me around. The pilgrim room is in the basement with only 2 beds but 2 bathrooms. I see a folded up mattress so I guess three could sleep. You must be in by 21.00 as the police then take over. You must also be out by 6 a.m. but there is a churros place around the corner that is open from 5 - 14.00 so no need to leave in the dark or without a café con Leche.

No pilgrims in sight, just cyclers going in the opposite direction.

Will post if other things of interest to share. I will be following the stages I posted in Laurie's old thread with her "leisurely stages"

View attachment 43346 View attachment 43343 View attachment 43345
Hi. We are in Segovia, having a rest day. We had planned to stay in La Granja but missed unmarked turn off. We think it was up by the Fuente de La Reina?
Cercedilla to Segovia was the hardest day I ever walked. It rained and according to my phone clocked up about 68 000 steps. No place to get food or water en route. 20180606_120053.jpg 20180604_133033.jpg 20180606_120053.jpg 20180604_133033.jpg
 
#13
Thanks for the heads-up @gittiharre. Lovely pictures!

In Cercedilla having coffee and luckily forgot to turn off my phone so see your message. I will read up on Gronze's instructions so I don't make the same mistake.

Mataelpino - Cercedilla lovely and the weather gods on my side.

Enjoy your day off in Segovia. Where to next?

Here one picture for @peregrina2000 ;)

DSC_0608.JPG

I know how much you like to cross paths with these lovely ladies with horns.
 
#15
I know how much you like to cross paths with these lovely ladies with horns.
After all these years worrying about cattle vs. steers vs. bulls vs. cows, I still don't have it figured out. I don't mind the "lovely ladies" unless they have babies. Many people have told me that it's the same as with mama bears and other animals -- you don't want to threaten their babies. Since I always seem to walk when there are lots of cows giving birth, that does give me pause.

But it's the males that really freak me out. I KNOW that there are no "toros bravos" walking around enclosures through which the camino passes, but I am still likely to find a way around them, or hang out on the side and hope they pass by.

LT (or anyone else), what is your thinking or strategy on this? I know I have posted about it before, but am always interested in learning from those who know what they are talking about, which I definitely don't!
 

gittiharre

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF Austria Czech Le Puy Geneva RLS V. Jacobi V. Regia V. Baltica/Scandinavica Porto Muxia
#16
I avoid getting between the mamas and the babies...and hold my breath with the toros.. .
 
#17
After all these years worrying about cattle vs. steers vs. bulls vs. cows, I still don't have it figured out. I don't mind the "lovely ladies" unless they have babies. Many people have told me that it's the same as with mama bears and other animals -- you don't want to threaten their babies. Since I always seem to walk when there are lots of cows giving birth, that does give me pause.

But it's the males that really freak me out. I KNOW that there are no "toros bravos" walking around enclosures through which the camino passes, but I am still likely to find a way around them, or hang out on the side and hope they pass by.

LT (or anyone else), what is your thinking or strategy on this? I know I have posted about it before, but am always interested in learning from those who know what they are talking about, which I definitely don't!
I definitely don't know what I am talking about in this regard. Even though they have horns (ours don't but that's another story) most cows will get out of your way when passing but the bulls on the Plata I stayed clear of whenever possible. I didn't trust them! Maybe someone else can help you out here.

Mataelpino - Cercedilla - Puerto de Fuenfría 1792m - Lagranja San Ildefonso 35+

Lovely start to Cercedilla where I stopped for coffee. Wild heather all the way.

DSC_0606.JPG

The climb from Cercedilla to the entrance of the park was fine but up to Fuenfria was tiring. About 3/4 up I had a bajón as they day in Spanish and had to stop and eat something. I guess the kiwi at 6:30 and banana at 9:00 was not enough to get me to the top. Lots of loose rocks and the Calzada Romana/Calzada borbónica (Felipe V, XVIII) all the way up. Then I made a mistake and ended up on a steep side path. Was glad to make my way down afterwards!

@gittiharre The turnoff to San Ildefonso on the right was not difficult to find but you need to know beforehand that there will be no sign! I stopped a mountain biker on the way down and he confirmed that there are two ways to get to San Ildefonso. The first is about 7 km from the top and looks like this:

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The road intersects the trail and is the one and only possibility up to that point. This road runs through the forest until Valsaín (3 km) then dirt path by highway to San Ildefonso, another 3 km.

The mountain biker advised me to take the next intersection which was two hours from the top for me. It is actually the road you cross to follow the Camino to Segovia. Instead you take it to the right. The views of Segovia from high up and the open landscape you would miss by taking the first intetsection.

DSC_0629.JPG

The last 6 km dragged on a bit although the road to Valsaín had no traffic. The first 3 is on asphalt and the rest a combination of asphalt and dirt paths by the road into San Ildefonso.

Albergue de Lis is nice, €10 and I am once again alone. By the time I had a late lunch at 3:30, got into the albergue and showered the Palacio was closed. The extensive gardens were open till 20:00 so I wandered around. Even caught a procession with all the kids who had had communion this year.

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Made a nice video but too large to upload.

Cancelled hostel in Segovia as will be getting in early enough to visit and walk to the next albergue 3 km beyond Segovia.
 

gittiharre

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF Austria Czech Le Puy Geneva RLS V. Jacobi V. Regia V. Baltica/Scandinavica Porto Muxia
#18
I definitely don't know what I am talking about in this regard. Even though they have horns (ours don't but that's another story) most cows will get out of your way when passing but the bulls on the Plata I stayed clear of whenever possible. I didn't trust them! Maybe someone else can help you out here.

Mataelpino - Cercedilla - Puerto de Fuenfría 1792m - Lagranja San Ildefonso 35+

Lovely start to Cercedilla where I stopped for coffee. Wild heather all the way.

View attachment 43414

The climb from Cercedilla to the entrance of the park was fine but up to Fuenfria was tiring. About 3/4 up I had a bajón as they day in Spanish and had to stop and eat something. I guess the kiwi at 6:30 and banana at 9:00 was not enough to get me to the top. Lots of loose rocks and the Calzada Romana/Calzada borbónica (Felipe V, XVIII) all the way up. Then I made a mistake and ended up on a steep side path. Was glad to make my way down afterwards!

@gittiharre The turnoff to San Ildefonso on the right was not difficult to find but you need to know beforehand that there will be no sign! I stopped a mountain biker on the way down and he confirmed that there are two ways to get to San Ildefonso. The first is about 7 km from the top and looks like this:

View attachment 43415

The road intersects the trail and is the one and only possibility up to that point. This road runs through the forest until Valsaín (3 km) then dirt path by highway to San Ildefonso, another 3 km.

The mountain biker advised me to take the next intersection which was two hours from the top for me. It is actually the road you cross to follow the Camino to Segovia. Instead you take it to the right. The views of Segovia from high up and the open landscape you would miss by taking the first intetsection.

View attachment 43416

The last 6 km dragged on a bit although the road to Valsaín had no traffic. The first 3 is on asphalt and the rest a combination of asphalt and dirt paths by the road into San Ildefonso.

Albergue de Lis is nice, €10 and I am once again alone. By the time I had a late lunch at 3:30, got into the albergue and showered the Palacio was closed. The extensive gardens were open till 20:00 so I wandered around. Even caught a procession with all the kids who had had communion this year.

View attachment 43417

View attachment 43418

Made a nice video but too large to upload.

Cancelled hostel in Segovia as will be getting in early enough to visit and walk to the next albergue 3 km beyond Segovia.
Thank you! We had a superb day in Segovia and off to Las Huertos tomorrow, leaving Segovia mid am... We might meet on the trail, who knows!
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#19
Caught an early flight so decided to start out today once I got my Camino de Madrid Credencial (their own) and first stamp.

It was breeze getting from Barajas to the Opera, the metro stop which is close to the church (Barajas-Nuevos Ministerios line 8, 7 stops, change to line 6 to Cuatro Caminos 1 stop then change to line 2 Las Rosas to the Opera 7 stops. All in all about 45-60 minutes.

Thanks to @peregrina2000 for the description of a nice walk from the church through Madrid to reach the Plaza de Castilla where the arrows start. It took me an hour and 20 minutes, about 6-7 km. From Plaza de Castilla till the outskirts of the city in Montecarmelo it was another hour. From then on you walk on lovely dirt paths. It was filled with wild flowers. Glad I did it.

Getting into Tres Cantos was not a problem (take the second red pasarela over the highway) but I must have messed up at the train station since I lost the arrows. It took me almost 30 minutes from the bridge to the ayuntamiento so I must have taken a roundabout route although I asked 4 people.

This is a heads-up for anyone wanting to sleep in the town hall: disregard the information in Gronze which says you can't get in till 22.30. This is definitely incorrect. I called from home yesterday and I was told that I could get in around 14.30. Since I only left the church at 12.00 I got in at 17.00. All the employees were gone but a nice security woman showed me around. The pilgrim room is in the basement with only 2 beds but 2 bathrooms. I see a folded up mattress so I guess three could sleep. You must be in by 21.00 as the police then take over. You must also be out by 6 a.m. but there is a churros place around the corner that is open from 5 - 14.00 so no need to leave in the dark or without a café con Leche.

No pilgrims in sight, just cyclers going in the opposite direction.

Will post if other things of interest to share. I will be following the stages I posted in Laurie's old thread with her "leisurely stages"

View attachment 43346 View attachment 43343 View attachment 43345
Ah, I'm so sorry I didn't know you would be in Madrid on Tuesday as I was too. Left for the airport late evening and catch a flight home on Wednesday early morning. We could have a drink or at least a handshake ;) I guess it'll have to wait for another time.

PS (Hurrying to read your later posts :))
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#20
Hi. We are in Segovia, having a rest day. We had planned to stay in La Granja but missed unmarked turn off. We think it was up by the Fuente de La Reina?
Cercedilla to Segovia was the hardest day I ever walked. It rained and according to my phone clocked up about 68 000 steps. No place to get food or water en route. View attachment 43390 View attachment 43391 View attachment 43390 View attachment 43391
Hi, @gittiharre
Turnoff for Valsain and La Granja de San Ildefonso is way after Fuente de la Reina. The first asphalt road you come to and the arrows leading you across it you take it to the right and that's it.
Fuente de la Reina is a water well and I remember two additional fuentes between Fuenfria and the above mentioned asphalt road.

Buen Camino!
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#21
Tomorrow we head for Huertos new Albergue.
I actually was lucky this year to find Los Huertos bar/restaurante opened. It wasn't in 2014 and I don't remember any post that mentioned it was ever :)
There should be a tienda also according to my info but I forgot to ask in the bar as I went on to Ane where there is nothing as it's well known.

Buen Camino, Lee!
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#22
I definitely don't know what I am talking about in this regard. Even though they have horns (ours don't but that's another story) most cows will get out of your way when passing but the bulls on the Plata I stayed clear of whenever possible. I didn't trust them! Maybe someone else can help you out here.

Mataelpino - Cercedilla - Puerto de Fuenfría 1792m - Lagranja San Ildefonso 35+

Lovely start to Cercedilla where I stopped for coffee. Wild heather all the way.

View attachment 43414

The climb from Cercedilla to the entrance of the park was fine but up to Fuenfria was tiring. About 3/4 up I had a bajón as they day in Spanish and had to stop and eat something. I guess the kiwi at 6:30 and banana at 9:00 was not enough to get me to the top. Lots of loose rocks and the Calzada Romana/Calzada borbónica (Felipe V, XVIII) all the way up. Then I made a mistake and ended up on a steep side path. Was glad to make my way down afterwards!

@gittiharre The turnoff to San Ildefonso on the right was not difficult to find but you need to know beforehand that there will be no sign! I stopped a mountain biker on the way down and he confirmed that there are two ways to get to San Ildefonso. The first is about 7 km from the top and looks like this:

View attachment 43415

The road intersects the trail and is the one and only possibility up to that point. This road runs through the forest until Valsaín (3 km) then dirt path by highway to San Ildefonso, another 3 km.

The mountain biker advised me to take the next intersection which was two hours from the top for me. It is actually the road you cross to follow the Camino to Segovia. Instead you take it to the right. The views of Segovia from high up and the open landscape you would miss by taking the first intetsection.

View attachment 43416

The last 6 km dragged on a bit although the road to Valsaín had no traffic. The first 3 is on asphalt and the rest a combination of asphalt and dirt paths by the road into San Ildefonso.

Albergue de Lis is nice, €10 and I am once again alone. By the time I had a late lunch at 3:30, got into the albergue and showered the Palacio was closed. The extensive gardens were open till 20:00 so I wandered around. Even caught a procession with all the kids who had had communion this year.

View attachment 43417

View attachment 43418

Made a nice video but too large to upload.

Cancelled hostel in Segovia as will be getting in early enough to visit and walk to the next albergue 3 km beyond Segovia.
Just to add to my post (no.20) - I took the first take off to the right as @LTfit described it.
 
#23
Hey @KinkyOne sorry we just missed each other! One of these Caminos it will happen, as long as we keep walking:)

June 8 Day 4 Lagranja San Ildefonso - Segovia - Los Huertos (12 km + 13 km)

The walk from San Ildefonso to Segovia is a breeze, flat as can be along the CL 601. Not as bad as expecting. Not sure about km signage as was in the historic centre within 2 hours. Messaged @gittiharre as I knew she and her friend Jenny would still be in town. We met up for coffee and had a lovely chat before I went off to visit the city. Weather was iffy but I never needed to get out my poncho. Plans changed in route and I decided to join Gitti and Jenny in Los Huertos. The albergue is lovely, clean and only one year old but...you may have difficulty finding it if no one around (which happened when I arrived). It is next to the ayuntamiento. No blankets but the hospitalera will put on the heat if needed.
NOTE: there is NO STORE in town and the bar is open only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. We were in luck. Town quite dead.

Not sure where off to today as changed plans and moved on to Los Huertos instead of hanging out longer in Segovia. DSC_0680.JPG

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@gittiharre and friend Jenny on the way to Los Huertos.
 
#24
See yesterday's post never uploaded. Internet connection was poor in the Albergue.

Today Day 5 Los Huertos - Nava de la Asunción 33 km

Day started out rainy, walking through muddy fields and grassy paths. The landscape has changed drastically - mountains make way for grain fields and sandy pine forests. No pilgrims in sight. Left the 2 Kiwis:) behind as they were planning a shorter stage.

There is a five star albergue with sheets and towels for €18 (down from €20 per hospitalero from the refugio where I am staying) but I went to the €5 alternative in a room off the sports facilities. 4 beds, bathroom, fridge, microwave, blankets and electric heaters that toast up the room in a jiffy. Raúl came to open up and gave me the keys to two entrances. Two Belgians here last night otherwise only 4 others in June.

Signage was on two occasions unclear (after Añe and before Santa María el Real de Nieve) as no arrows or mojones at 2 intersections). Glad I had Internet connection to check Google maps for location. Otherwise perfect up until now.

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Town Hall and cloister in Santa Maria. The church attached to the cloister was closed.

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Funny thing happened during my walk through the pine forest (which reminded me of the Levante - makes sense, Arévalo is close by). Deep in thought and no one in sight I was surprised by a cycler coming up from behind. She stopped to chat, telling me of her previous Caminos to Santiago and that she had walked the Mozárabe in May from Almería to Mérida. "Do you know it?" she asked. I had to laugh. "Did you meet up with a group of English speaking ladies?" I asked. "Oh yes, Maggie!" and she pulled out her phone to show me a picture of her with the mob! @Magwood - saludos de Margarita!
Small world.

DSC_0765.JPG

Not a bad way to end the day. Camino pleasures.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#25
There is a five star albergue with sheets and towels for €18 (down from €20 per hospitalero from the refugio where I am staying) but I went to the €5 alternative in a room off the sports facilities. 4 beds, bathroom, fridge, microwave, blankets and electric heaters that toast up the room in a jiffy. Raúl came to open up and gave me the keys to two entrances. Two Belgians here last night otherwise only 4 others in June.
Ah, Raul, the hospitalero is such a nice person. He stopped me and my companion on the entrance to the park by the polideportivo where he was chatting with his family. Not just to say that albergue was full but to direct us to Hostal across the street. We went for a drink together and next day he brought his home made chorizo as a gift. It was delicious :D
Madrid (and Invierno) people are so very nice!
 
#27
Ah, Raul, the hospitalero is such a nice person. He stopped me and my companion on the entrance to the park by the polideportivo where he was chatting with his family. Not just to say that albergue was full but to direct us to Hostal across the street. We went for a drink together and next day he brought his home made chorizo as a gift. It was delicious :D
Madrid (and Invierno) people are so very nice!
Yes, everyone has been so friendly! When I was trying to find the place a whole group outside a bar got involved in calling around till they found Raúl. I could have looks for his number on Gronze but they were all trying so hard to track him down that I let them carry on!
 
#30
Thanks for all the updates...I start from Madrid on August 27th and love all the tips and stories
Glad this helps. Note for Nava de la Asunción: There is a Día supermarket near the refugio.

June 10 Day 6 Nava de la Asunción - Alcazarén 33 km

Having a coffee break in Villeguillo and waiting to see if the pouring rain will let up. Everything was closed in Coco when I passed through at 8.30 but then again it's Sunday. Luckily this bar is open.- it never closed as it was Fiesta yesterday!

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Off to brave the rain.
 

gittiharre

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF Austria Czech Le Puy Geneva RLS V. Jacobi V. Regia V. Baltica/Scandinavica Porto Muxia
#31
Great little Albergue and hospitalero in Santa Maria last night and a fun bar/ restaurant next to post office, which was open for coffee at 7 am too. No shops open Sat pm and Sun. The bar in plaza mayor was super unfriendly. In Nava now. Lovely warm welcome and free pastries at the pastelleria. The bar a few doors down serves wonderful tapas. We are drying out here after the rain before heading off to Coca LTfit disappearing into the distance at a much faster pace.
 
#34
Just finished a lovely tortilla francesa con queso with an exquisite vino tinto from the region. I know nothing about wines but know what a like. Very soft.

June 10 Day 6 Nava de la Asunción - Coca - Villeguillo - Alcazarén 33 km

Rain, pine forests and sandy paths. That about sums up today's stage.
Walking out of Villeguillo I saw the largest full rainbow ever, so large that I couldn't fit it all into one shot. Beautiful. And the sun came out during the last half hour walking
Surprised to find 3 other pilgrims in the albergue, the most up till now. The others walked from Coca.
Albergue is donativo and has all the basic stuff so can make a coffee before heading out in the morning.

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Beautifully restored Mudéjar church from the 13th c. here in Alcazarén.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
St Olav/Francés ('16)
Baztanés/Francés ('17)
Ingles ('18)
#35
It's wonderful to catch up after a full week and to see your super gorgeous pics, Lee!
After seeing your photos, I know what the next long walk on my list will be after next year's, should I be so lucky to be able to walk another long camino: Madrid/San Salvador/Primativo.

And I bet those lovely blue shoes are a bit less pristine by now.;)

The only time I saw LT from the front was when we finally stopped walking for the day. :D
Don't believe a word, Laurie walks just as fast!
This is an easy discussion to mediate: you both walk fast.:D:D
 
#36
June 11 Day 7 Alcazarén - Valdesillas - Puente Duero - Simancas - Ciguñuela 38 km

Pine forests with sandy paths continue today followed by agricultural fields and more pines. Drizzle then rain then dry with a patch of sun.

Terrain is flat, flat, flat until the climb into Simancas crossing over the 13th century mediaeval bridge. Landscape changed once again to rolling fields.

Last night's group planned on walking on to Puente Duero 25 km further on but as I arrived at 11.30 I continued on. Walking was easy today and as Simancas doesn't have an albergue I carried on to the Casa de Maestro in Ciguñuela, a small town of about 400 inhabitants. It has been raining on and off since my arrival. Send some sun this way please:)

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#37
June 12 Day 8
Ciguñuela - Wamba - Peñaflor de Hornija -Castromontes - Valverde de Campos - Medina de Rioseco 39 km

Beautiful day to walk - first day without black clouds overhead! Sun came in and out and the sky was at times blue.
The terrain was more varied with frequent ups and downs. Now in Medina de Rioseco, a "city" of 5000 inhabitants, quite different from the hamlets I have been staying in.

The albergue in Medina de Rioseco run by the nuns has closed due to the dealth of sister Sor who used to care for the pilgrims. I have been told that they have left Medina although I can't confirm this. I understand from my Spanish hospitalera friend who is a member of the Camino association in Madrid that a local Camino group is trying to take over the management. Who knows when this will come about.

I hadn't planned to stay here but further on but miscalculated the distance to the next albergue. Luckily I got a great deal at a hostel and have a private room with own bathroom, sheets and towels for €15!!! This is not the normal price (usually €30) but it was "more convenient" for the person in charge to put me in this room. In Gronze the price was listed as €26 and on booking.com €40 so I am pleased:)

Didn't see anyone today while walking.

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#38
June 13 Day 9
Medina de Rioseco - Tamariz - Moral de la Reina - Cuenca de Campos - Villalón de Campos 31 km

Luckily there were cafés open when I left at 6:30 as there was nothing until 25 km further in Cuenca de Campos. Gronze shows cafés in both towns before this but I couldn't find them and streets dead so no possibility to ask.

The Camino began with a beautiful walk along the Canal de Castilla which I learned ran all the way to Santander! The rest of the walk was through campos and more campos which makes sense as this area is known as the Tierra de Campos. Easy walking, in the end along a Vía Verde or reclaimed railroad tracks.

In the municipal albergue in Villalón with a Spanish couple from Madrid and a couple from Málaga who are volunteers. They said that the weather has been horrible and very few pilgrims have passed through. The Amigos group from Galicia are responsible for this albergue as well as that in Corcubión and Herron.

Tomorrow Sahagún. I will need to decide what to do with the 11 days that remain. Suggestions @peregrina2000 @KinkyOne or others? I would like to stay away from mud and rain. Originally planned on walking to León then on to the Salvador or getting myself to Oviedo and walk the Primitivo but have been reading about mud up to the ankles and rain...(have no pants and wear non-gortex trail runners).

Here some pictures of today. Met only 3 cyclers while walking.

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Canal de Castilla


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Lonely church tower with store's nest

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Palomares

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Plaza Villalón de Campos
 
#39
Great pics, LT. I loved that part of the Madrid.

11 days is a lot. If the weather is ok in other parts of the north, there are a couple obvious choices. One would be the tunnel route from Irun to Santo Domingo. Or, you could walk Aguilar de Campoo to Ponferrada. This is the best part of the Olvidado, IMO, but you could also just start in Bilbao and see how far you get. I know you know how to search around, so I won't give you links. OR, how about heading to Almeria and walking to Granada. That's a week for you. Looks like sun and not too hot, the albergue structure is great, and Verónica will take great care of you if you let her know you are coming. Not that you need being taken care of but the Association is really phenomenal and a bunch of very nice people. I know you walked from Málaga, but there would be some new days there for you. I haven't walked the Lana from Alicante, but lots of people rave about it. It is very high on my list. Castellano-Aragonés from north of Zaragoza is one of my favorites but there is no albergue infrastructure and it passes through Tarazona, which may not be high on your list. :)

Let us know what you decide, happy ruminating! Abrazos from Laurie
 
#40
Great pics, LT. I loved that part of the Madrid.

11 days is a lot. If the weather is ok in other parts of the north, there are a couple obvious choices. One would be the tunnel route from Irun to Santo Domingo. Or, you could walk Aguilar de Campoo to Ponferrada. This is the best part of the Olvidado, IMO, but you could also just start in Bilbao and see how far you get. I know you know how to search around, so I won't give you links. OR, how about heading to Almeria and walking to Granada. That's a week for you. Looks like sun and not too hot, the albergue structure is great, and Verónica will take great care of you if you let her know you are coming. Not that you need being taken care of but the Association is really phenomenal and a bunch of very nice people. I know you walked from Málaga, but there would be some new days there for you. I haven't walked the Lana from Alicante, but lots of people rave about it. It is very high on my list. Castellano-Aragonés from north of Zaragoza is one of my favorites but there is no albergue infrastructure and it passes through Tarazona, which may not be high on your list. :)

Let us know what you decide, happy ruminating! Abrazos from Laurie
I'm hijacking my own thread;)

Thanks for your suggestions Laurie! Northern Spain looks pretty bad all the way up to the coast. Here in Castilla the nicest day yet.

Thought about Almería - Granada as I walked from Granada to Mérida and not from Málaga. I'd be doing it on the fly without a guide (although have a hard copy at home from 2014) but recall Amigos group has a guide which I could download. Do you have contact info for Verónica? (pm me please).

Also thought about the Lana (guide also at home:rolleyes:) but assume Gronze has info.

Another thought is to start in Toledo and continue on to Zamora repeating that part of the Levante which I did during Semana Santa 2015 and really liked. I remember climbing the mountain in the pouring rain and fingers so cold I couldn't take pictures. Told myself I had to return in decent weather.

Hmmm need to think about this.
 
#41
Toledo to Zamora is a great idea, too. That mountain stretch before Avila is one of my favorites, but I was lucky not to have rain like you did! I put you and Veronica on a WhatsApp conversation.

and yes, the association has a guide, updated regularly so that even things like hospitalero phone numbers are up to date. Most recent version is always on their homepage. http://www.almeriajacobea.es/
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#42
June 13 Day 9
Medina de Rioseco - Tamariz - Moral de la Reina - Cuenca de Campos - Villalón de Campos 31 km

Luckily there were cafés open when I left at 6:30 as there was nothing until 25 km further in Cuenca de Campos. Gronze shows cafés in both towns before this but I couldn't find them and streets dead so no possibility to ask.

The Camino began with a beautiful walk along the Canal de Castilla which I learned ran all the way to Santander! The rest of the walk was through campos and more campos which makes sense as this area is known as the Tierra de Campos. Easy walking, in the end along a Vía Verde or reclaimed railroad tracks.

In the municipal albergue in Villalón with a Spanish couple from Madrid and a couple from Málaga who are volunteers. They said that the weather has been horrible and very few pilgrims have passed through. The Amigos group from Galicia are responsible for this albergue as well as that in Corcubión and Herron.

Tomorrow Sahagún. I will need to decide what to do with the 11 days that remain. Suggestions @peregrina2000 @KinkyOne or others? I would like to stay away from mud and rain. Originally planned on walking to León then on to the Salvador or getting myself to Oviedo and walk the Primitivo but have been reading about mud up to the ankles and rain...(have no pants and wear non-gortex trail runners).

Here some pictures of today. Met only 3 cyclers while walking.

View attachment 43579
Canal de Castilla


View attachment 43580
Lonely church tower with store's nest

View attachment 43581
Palomares

View attachment 43582
Plaza Villalón de Campos
Ahem...

North of Spain looks really shitty weather-wise in next days. Actually half of Europe does. Laurie recommended so-called Tunnel Route, which is not, because there are Via de Bayona: Bayonne - Burgos (which I walked in 2016 and could send you my material) and Camino Vasco del Interior: Irun - Sto.Domingo de la Calzada (both overlaping from Irun to the village of Estavillo). Therefore I would recommend one of the southern Caminos for those 11 days. But you're waaay too fast Lee :D.

Manchego?
De la Cruz?
Teresiano?
Via Augusta?
Via Serrana?

K1
 
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Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (May 2015)
Camino Frances (2016-2018)
#43
Living in the Lake District in England, I feel your pain regarding the weather.
We’ve actually had a period of unprecedented dry, warm weather...so Jenny and I were planning to go camping this weekend. The forecast is now for the weather to revert to normal and it’s going to tip it down .
Typical...
 
#44
Ahem...

North of Spain looks really shitty weather-wise in next days. Actually half of Europe does. Laurie recommended so-called Tunnel Route, which is not, because there are Via de Bayona: Bayonne - Burgos (which I walked in 2016 and could send you my material) and Camino Vasco del Interior: Irun - Sto.Domingo de la Calzada (both overlaping from Irun to the village of Estavillo). Therefore I would recommend one of the southern Caminos for those 11 days. But you're waaay to fast Lee :D.

Manchego?
De la Cruz?
Teresiano?
Via Augusta?
Via Serrana?

K1
Thanks K1 for l answering.
Haha too fast! Sooo still undecided. First get myself today to Sahagún!

As I told Laurie in a pm I might just do Toledo-Zamora for a second time so that I have less travel time (and loose 2 days of walking).
 
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Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
St Olav/Francés ('16)
Baztanés/Francés ('17)
Ingles ('18)
#45
More mouth watering pics, Lee! Wow.
May you have sun no matter where you go.
Toledo-Zamora sounds like a plan. And if you want something different, you could turn off at Avila and head to Salamanca on the Camino Teresianos.
 
#46
More mouth watering pics, Lee! Wow.
May you have sun no matter where you go.
Toledo-Zamora sounds like a plan. And if you want something different, you could turn off at Avila and head to Salamanca on the Camino Teresianos.
Thanks Vira! I have actually decided to continue on to León and decide at that point whether I continue onto the Salvador. The weather (at least here) has improved over the last two days so I am keeping my fingers crossed.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
St Olav/Francés ('16)
Baztanés/Francés ('17)
Ingles ('18)
#47
The weather (at least here) has improved over the last two days so I am keeping my fingers crossed.
May it be so! The Salvador looks fantastic...so I hope your winged feet keep you out of the mud!
Buen Camino, peregrina!
 
#48
June 14 Day 10
Villalón de Campos - Santervás de Campos - Sahagún
35+ km

Last day on the Camino de Madrid and I made a wrong turn leaving Arenillas de Valderaduey (mojón is turned to the left, arrow too but don't follow this path!!!) adding a few extra kilometers and bypassing Grajal de Campos!

Lovely welcome in the albergue of the Padres Maristas in Sahagún. After 10 days walking alone and only seeing 2 pilgrims in route, it was nice to meet up with other pilgrims walking the Francés. Spoke French, Spanish and English during the communal dinner which everyone contributed to. Will walk to León then decide whether to continue into the mountains on the Camino de Salvador or continue on the Francés.

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Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
St Olav/Francés ('16)
Baztanés/Francés ('17)
Ingles ('18)
#49
Those beautiful shoes are looking a bit less pristine, Lee.
More gorgeous photos. The meseta...
One like doesn't come close.
 
#53
Arrived in Santiago yesterday after 11 days on the Francés (Sahagún - Santiago).

Total km: almost 700 from Madrid.

This picture is for @VNwalking

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Another new pair of Salomon trail runners bite the dust after one Camino. Also went threw three pairs a socks! This will teach me not to take the same socks as used during a previous Camino. But what I do to shoes is unexplainable!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (May 2015)
Camino Frances (2016-2018)
#56
Another new pair of Salomon trail runners bite the dust after one Camino. But what I do to shoes is unexplainable!
I do all my mountain running in Salomon Speedcross - they have a reputation for poor longevity. Where yours have split is exactly where mine (and many other's) also split. From experience, 700-800 km isn't too bad. I also walk in them and found the camino destroyed the tread. But...i find them very comfortable for my delicate feet ;)
 
#57
I do all my mountain running in Salomon Speedcross - they have a reputation for poor longevity. Where yours have split is exactly where mine (and many other's) also split. From experience, 700-800 km isn't too bad. I also walk in them and found the camino destroyed the tread. But...i find them very comfortable for my delicate feet ;)
These are Sense Ride Trail Runners, lighter and more comfortable than the model I used last year but both provided me with a blister-free Camino so I guess I shouldn't complain.

Didn't show the sole but under the ball of my foot the tread is worn away. The exact same thing happened last year and I took them back to the store. Salomon gave me my money back! For some reason I don't think that this will work a second time around.
 

AZgirl

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2012 , via de la Plata 2014
Madrid/frances Sept/Oct 2017
Next : Levante Sept 2019
#58
I enjoyed your trip report Thanks!

It's good to here they are letting pilgrims in earlier at tres cantos as when I was there we had to wait for ever to be let in and then kicked out so early!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
St Olav/Francés ('16)
Baztanés/Francés ('17)
Ingles ('18)
#59
I was busy and then walking myself so I missed this gem:
This picture is for @VNwalking
Hahahahaha...OMG, Lee. That wear was from only one camino?
But what I do to shoes is unexplainable!
Well. That's easy. You walk fast enough that the shoes begin to melt from the heat of the friction of the little wings flapping. I do hope your feet look better than that.;)
 
#60
I was busy and then walking myself so I missed this gem:

Hahahahaha...OMG, Lee. That wear was from only one camino?

Well. That's easy. You walk fast enough that the shoes begin to melt from the heat of the friction of the little wings flapping. I do hope your feet look better than that.;)
Feet are luckily blister free (hope yours are too).

I actually have a new pair, free of charge! I took them back to the store and they ordered me new ones. Said that they would send the shoes back to Salomon. And if it happened again I could come back but that maybe it would then be a sign that I need a sturdier shoe ;).

Last year I was also given a replacement after destroying another Salomon model. I think that it is time that I contact them directly and offer my services as a shoe tester :).
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
St Olav/Francés ('16)
Baztanés/Francés ('17)
Ingles ('18)
#61
I actually have a new pair, free of charge! I took them back to the store and they ordered me new ones. Said that they would send the shoes back to Salomon. And if it happened again I could come back but that maybe it would then be a sign that I need a sturdier shoe ;).

Last year I was also given a replacement after destroying another Salomon model. I think that it is time that I contact them directly and offer my services as a shoe tester :).
:cool:Great idea...after getting a few pairs of new shoes for free you'd think you could sell them on that idea. At least that way they'd get the benefit of your feedback.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#62
Feet are luckily blister free (hope yours are too).

I actually have a new pair, free of charge! I took them back to the store and they ordered me new ones. Said that they would send the shoes back to Salomon. And if it happened again I could come back but that maybe it would then be a sign that I need a sturdier shoe ;).

Last year I was also given a replacement after destroying another Salomon model. I think that it is time that I contact them directly and offer my services as a shoe tester :).
I have Salomon's on almost all of my Caminos (low and mid cut) and I'm very much happy with them but that's really good idea to be a real life shoe tester. If you'll go for it you have my permission that they can contact me anytime :D
 

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