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On the Camino, on this date in July

trecile

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Time of past OR future Camino
Francés, Norte, Salvador, Primitivo, Portuguese
The thread that I started last year has become rather long, so here's a new thread to post pictures, musings, etc. from any year for any dates in July on any Camino.

When you respond, please mention the year, route you were on and where you walked (or rested) that day. Thanks!

Also, if you are posting multiple pictures upload them as thumbnails.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

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1st July 2019 Camino Frances
Triacastela to Sarria

I was starting to get my fitness back and so I pushed on the 18 kilometers from Triacastela to Sarria. Again, some beautiful areas, see photos below.

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I was fascinated with this Japanese way marker as I entered Sarria.
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My next two weeks are an illustration of what not to do when you head off to do your Camino.

When planning my Camino I allowed lots of extra time so that I would not be rushed and to allow for the unexpected. This was good but then I couldn't stand to see an empty period in my schedule and so, assuming that I would be finished my Camino by now, I had made arrangements to meet two of my cousins in France and a friend in England and they had all changed their schedules to accommodate my visit.

The ten days in hospital and recuperating had thrown my schedule askew and so now I had to break my Camino in Sarria so that I could travel to the Rennes area in France to visit my cuzzies.

At this time I was thinking that this would be my last trip to Europe and so I was trying to visit all my old friends from my three year visit during the 1980's.

Of course I have now changed my mind and once things settle I will plan another trip to Europe and another Camino.

At the time, though, I needed to break my Camino then come back to it after my social visits and I did that from Sarria. I will pick up this thread again once I get back to Sarria.
 
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The thread that I started last year has become rather long, so here's a new thread to post pictures, musings, etc. from any year for any dates in July on any Camino.

When you respond, please mention the year, route you were on and where you walked (or rested) that day. Thanks!

Also, if you are posting multiple pictures upload them as thumbnails.
I walked from Chantada to Rodeiro on the Camino Invierno. In six hours I only saw two other humans.
 

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Well I just squeaked in on this one!

This is (literally) July 1, 2018 in Madrid AFTER walking the Camino Frances with my regular group and then a "Slow Camino" with 2 clients. Having taken the train back to Madrid, I stayed for a few days to come back to earth before flying home.
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I love East Indian food and was VERY happy to find this little place. I hope it survived Covid!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
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July 3rd 2014-Camino Frances
Foncebadon to Ponferrada.
Nice walking day, but slow going down the steep hill out of Foncebadon down to Molinaseca and on to Ponferrada. Roamed a bit around Ponferradda and started to stay in a pensiones near the plaza there but changed my mind and wandered around a short while and ended up staying in a private albergue, Alea. I do remember it rained that night and kept me from roaming around more.
 
July 4th 2014-Camino Frances
Ponferrada to Villafranca Del Bierzo
At Villafranca stayed at the large private albergue Ave Fenix. I do not remember why I took a photo of the bunk beds there lol. Probably because that one set was up against another set of bunks.
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July 5th 2014-Camino Frances
Villafranca Del Bierzo to O'Cebreiro
Bit of a longish walking day, 30 kms I think, and with that nice steep bit at the end. Still, was nice weather. Cloudy, cool. No rain. Stayed at the big albergue in O'Cebreiro. By late afternoon it was quite full as was the entire town. Weather turned quite a bit cooler by late afternoon and I remember there was a wedding going on at the church. Celebration and drinking. Also the bars and cafes were quite full as there was FIFA world cup games going on.
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New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
July 6, 2019 day 2 on del Norte. Pasaia to
San Sebastián 5 hours. After crossing the water way we climbed at least 1000 steps. Once we checked into the Alburgue which was actually for youth, at least that’s what I was told. I had to pay more for the same accommodations because I’m over 50. 🤷🏻‍♀️ Anyway, we went for a dip then enjoyed dinner together.

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July 6, 2019 day 2 on del Norte. Pasaia to
San Sebastián 5 hours. After crossing the water way we climbed at least 1000 steps. Once we checked into the Alburgue which was actually for youth, at least that’s what I was told. I had to pay more for the same accommodations because I’m over 50. 🤷🏻‍♀️ Anyway, we went for a dip then enjoyed dinner together.

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Pay extra because older? Wow, they sure take the term youth hostel quite literally there. lol
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Pay extra because older? Wow, they sure take the term youth hostel quite literally there. lol
Yeah funny. It wasn’t a youth hostel, it was an alburgue. No where was there signage indicating it was a youth hostel. But so goes my del Norte experience. Nothing is as it seems.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
July 7th 2014-Camino Frances
Triacastela to Sarria
Short walk to Sarria. While walking spoke to a couple of pilgrims who had also stayed in the municipal at O'Cebreiro when I was there two nights previous and learned from them of some thefts that had occurred. Money stolen from pilgrim's backpacks. I was not clear from the description whether the thefts had occurred at night or while the backpacks were left unattended during the day. I do remember the albergue to be quite full and the entire town to be quite busy (it was a Saturday). Either way, a lesson to be learned on leaving valuables (especially money and credit/debit cards) unattended. Just plain do not do it. Nothing wrong with trust, but also nothing wrong with caution. Also I do not subscribe to the silly saying that the person who stole needed more than the victim. Total shite saying. Said by someone who has never been victimized.
At Sarria I stopped for a cold beer at the cafe/bar/pensiones Escalinata (right at the top of the long stairway) and while there decided to get a small room there as they were inexpensive. Not really much more cost than a private albergue. Was nice and clean and also had dinner at the cafe/bar later on.
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A selection of Camino Jewellery
July 8th 2014-Camino Frances
Sarria to Portomarin
Breakfast and coffee at the pensiones and a fairly short walk to Portomarin. As can be seen in the photo it was a beautiful day. At Portomarin stayed in the albergue Folguiera. I believe it was a new albergue and was nice and clean as can be seen in the photo, and overlooked the river. Portomarin a nice town and has everything a pilgrim needs.
I do remember a lot of pilgrims, not surprising after Sarria. I had gone to a pensiones first which was full, but they contacted the albergue and secured me a bed. So gracious.
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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
July 9, 2016, 5 years ago today on the second day walking our Camino we walked from Zubiri to Trinidad de Arres, where this photo was taken. It was a short day of only 15 km, stopping about 5 km short of Pamplona. We stopped there because (a) we were uncertain about finding a bed in Pamplona in the middle of the San Fermines, and (b) we thought a few short days was good at the beginning of our Camino as we hadn't trained. As it turned out, it gave us a chance to sleep in this albergue that's history of serving pilgrims seems to go back to the 12th century, if the sign is to be believed.
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Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
My notes say this was a grueling trail from Getaria to Deba with a bit of rain, 20k July 9, 2019. I believe it, never doubt the notes. 😁 Along the Flysh then through the mud, passing horses and sheep to end with a lovely store bought pilgrim meal. The butcher was kind enough to slice the tomato for me. ☺️ DEBA alburgue completo.
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July 10, 2016, 5 years ago today, on the way into Pamplona in the pre-dawn light. Starting from Trinidad de Arre we walked into Pamplona quite early, with the last of the revelers still staggering around the streets that were filled with the shards of broken plastic drinking cups. We made it to the other side of Pamplona before we stopped in a bar for some breakfast and to watch the encierro on the TV. Another short day, we finished in Zariquiegui.
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
July 10th 2014-Camino Frances
Palas de Rei to Arzua
Another longish day. About 28 km's I think. In Arzua stayed at albergue Los Caminantes. Actually quite a few places to stay in Arzua. Do not remember why I chose that albergue. Anyway, looking at photos of it on the net it looks okay.
 
July 11, 2016 - 5 years ago today. On the way down from the Alto de Perdon. This was the last of our trio of short, "on the Camino training days", from Zariquiegui to Puenta la Reina, via Eunate. About 15 km.

A descent that will remain in the memory of anyone who has done it, I think this is what finally did in my knees.
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July 11th 2014-Camino Frances
Arzua to Pedrouzo
At Pedrouzo stayed at the albergue Otero. The town was quite busy with pilgrims, of course. Tomorrow everyone arrives in Santiago. The albergue was basic but nice and a very gracious hospitalera. I remember her assisting a peregrina who had injured her ankle. Brought her an ice pack and helped her get foot elevated. Kind acts always stand out in the memory bank. I also remember eating some pulpo when there. Not my first dish of it, nor my last. Pulpo and a cold beer, so nice.
 
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July 12, 2016 - 5 years ago today, heading towards Cirauqui on the way from Puente la Reina to Estrella. There are no filters used in this photograph. My son, Toby, is ahead taking his own photo.
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David Tallan,
What a handsome photo; pilgrims, path, light and vista are combined in your classic image of summer on the CF.
 
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July 12th 2014-Camino Frances
Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela
Set off early. Very nice weather again. Also busy with pilgrims, of course. I had no reservations in Santiago but I figured I would wing it. See what happens. Stopped in San Marcos for a burger and a beer and very shortly after that I was standing in front of the cathedral. The last stretch from San Marcos I walked together with a peregrina from Brazil. It was her first Camino. Got my compostela a couple hours later at the old pilgrim's office. A bit of a wait, but not that bad. One thing that does stand out in my mind is there was a bicyclist pilgrim who was not in line for a compostela, but was hanging back just off the line near the door into the pilgrim's office where you got your certificate from a volunteer. I was talking to some pilgrims behind me and when it was my turn there was a slight delay from me as I was talking and the bicyclist darted in front of me and took my place for a compostela. The pilgrims I was talking to were furious the guy did that and were giving him a tongue lashing in Italian. All I could do was look at the childish cheat and shake my head and ask why. The old bit of thinking, really? Was that worth your integrity and dignity to do such a selfish, rude action for a piece of paper?
I ended up staying in Santiago for two days at a private residence sort of setup right next to the cathedral. Rented a room at a low price. I do not remember the name of the place and they had no sello. I had originally planned to walk to Fisterre, but had no time and only took the bus there and back for a day and flew out in the evening back to Madrid. Walks to Fisterre would come again for me on later Camino's.
The cathedral was in the beginning of the restoration. Not photogenic, and I never cared for all the scaffolding etc, but I suppose it was necessary. I am just glad I got to see it in its old glory on previous Camino's. I did go to mass twice and as luck would have it, totally unplanned, I got to see the botafumeiro swing both times.
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Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Two years ago on this date 7/12/2019: after my much needed rest day in Markina on del Norte. I pushed on to Gernika where I came upon those wooden stairs that went down and down and down some more. Artichoke anyone? Bleeding hearts?? I love the tops on the original way markers, this one has Mary and Baby Jesus. ☺️ I recall it was a good day.

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13 July, 2021, 5 years ago today, between Estella and Los Arcos. You are walking down the road, seemingly in the middle of nowhere with just fields and fields around you and there, up ahead, what is that you see? It is a food truck with tables around it. A place to stop and rest and refresh yourself.
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A selection of Camino Jewellery
13 July, 2021, 5 years ago today, between Estella and Los Arcos. You are walking down the road, seemingly in the middle of nowhere with just fields and fields around you and there, up ahead, what is that you see? It is a food truck with tables around it. A place to stop and rest and refresh yourself.
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I was there a month before you. "Eduardo's", perfectly placed on a very hot day, not far from Los Arcos.

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13 July, 2021, 5 years ago today, between Estella and Los Arcos. You are walking down the road, seemingly in the middle of nowhere with just fields and fields around you and there, up ahead, what is that you see? It is a food truck with tables around it. A place to stop and rest and refresh yourself.
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And, I being there yet a few months earlier in 2013 then again in 2016. A lovely Oasis indeed. One of my favorite stretches. Love those wide open spaces. ☺️
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CF, 12.07.2019
Meseta from Hornillos to Itero de la Vega:

....

Roland49,
Great pics of hot days in July; your handsome shot of the Puente Fitero brings back memories of frigid February crossings in 2007, 2008, and 2009. Thanks for sharing.
 
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14 July, 2016- 5 years ago today - shortly after Torres del Rio.
This was the view from the Camino during our walk from Los Arcos to Viana. Probably the place I look back on most fondly from this day, however, is the Planeta Agua shop in Viana where I finally bought hiking poles and saved my Camino.
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July 14th 2016-Camino Frances
Madrid to SJPdP

On this date I started another Frances. Interesting that when I write about these Caminos in this mini blog of sorts, it brings back the memories. Kind of exercises the mind.
I arrived in Madrid and took the bus to Pamplona and on to SJPdP. Bit of a long layover in the bus station at Pamplona waiting for the bus to SJPdP and did not get there until about 7:00 pm. Had the San Fermin festivities not been winding down in Pamplona I might have just spent the night there and caught the early bus to SJPdP in the morning. As it was I was very tired when I got to my auberge in SJPdP, Gite D'Etape Azkorria. Really nice and close to the pilgrim's office which was still open and I got my credentials after I checked into the auberge. I was so tired I did not eat dinner. After showering I ate a protein energy bar and went to sleep.
 
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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
July 15th 2016-Camino Frances
SJPdP to Roncesvalles
Got up early with everyone else and had the nice breakfast provided by the auberge. Loaded up on my calories for the walk to Roncesvalles, though I did contemplate making it a half day and only walking to ValCarlos as I was pretty confident there would be room at the albergue there. I did still feel tired and a bit jet lagged. Nonetheless off I went and got to Orrisson pretty quick and stopped and had a couple of beers with another pilgrim I had met on the way up, as he was staying there for the night. I even went in and checked if there were any last minute cancellations and had there been I would have stopped as well, but there were not. I ended up staying there for over an hour drinking beer and eating and chatting. Subsequently by the time I left there were pretty much no more pilgrims walking for the day. It had been fairly busy, but now I was alone. Was kind of nice. I got to Roncesvalles late in the afternoon, but there were still plenty of beds available. Slept solid that night.
 
On this day July 15, 2019 leaving Portugalete on del Norte heading to Castro Urdiales and back to the Sea after a week in the mountainous mountains. 😁 After three hours I stopped for a long awaited cafe con leche and sustenance in La Arena then again for some ice water and an ice cold Coca Cola in Miono where I met Luke from Ireland on his way to the Tour de France. It was a very long hot day and as I got closer to Castro-Urdiales I stopped to book a private room. I ended up at Pension Jade a very nice place where I stayed two nights plotting my escape from del Norte.

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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
16th July 2019 - Rejoining the Camino Frances from the UK.

I flew into Coruña, landed after midnight and discovered that there were no buses or taxis into the city from the airport but fortunately the Spanish couple who sat next to me and who I chatted to on the plane offered me a ride in with their son who had driven out to pick them up.

Once in Coruña we circled around for about ten minutes looking for the Airbnb where I was staying that night. Eventually I just got out of their car as I was embarrassed that I couldn't find the address and meanwhile they were tired after their trip.

After wandering around for awhile I phoned the ABnB host and got directions. It was a very late night by the time I got to bed. Then next morning I was up at 4.30 am so that I could walk to the bus station in time to catch the earliest bus to Santiago de Compostela where I had left my backpack in storage at the bus station.

I got into SdC at 7 am but then discovered that the luggage storage area didn't open until 8.30 am. Hung around the bus station sipping slowly on a coffee.

Picked up my backpack, sorted my stuff and sent my suitcase and unnecessary items to the SdC Post Office and caught the 9 am bus to Lugo.

I had a bit of a wait in Lugo before the afternoon bus to Sarria and so I walked around Lugo exploring a bit. I was feeling a bit peckish and sat down at a restaurant table and tried to order lunch. I realised that I was back in Spain when the waiter told me that the kitchen didn't start cooking until after 12.

I decided to walk off my hunger but just around the corner I spotted a bakery and couldn't resist these pastries.
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Wandered up to the Cathedral to get a stamp but couldn't find anyone so I walked around the town walls.
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While I was wandering around the city I spotted this street puppeteer.
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I caught the afternoon bus to Sarria and arrived sometime after 3 pm and so I phoned the hospitalero of the albergue in Portomarin to ask him to keep my bed as I would be arriving late.

Here are a couple of photos taken along the way from Sarria to Portomarin.
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Pont da Āspara
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Along the way
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And more

I was pretty beat by the time I got to my albergue but the hospitalero had kept me a bed, only problem was that it was the last bed left and on the top bunk!

Unloaded my backpack and headed out for dinner. On my return there was a Spanish family in my room and when they saw me struggling to get up on the top bunk one of the kids offered to swap his bottom bunk for me. The Camino provides 😁

Fell into bed and almost immediately fell asleep, I hope that I didn't snore too loudly for that Spanish family but they were gone by the time I woke up the next morning.
 
July 16th 2016-Camino Frances
Roncesvalles to Zubiri
I was up before the lights on and singing by the hospitaleros at the albergue. I always get a laugh when I see the faces of the other pilgrims looking like little kids when the lights come on. Having to get up t go to school lol. I knew it was going to be a very hot day, as was the next day to Pamplona. Very hot, very dry. This entire Frances was that way. No rain, hot and dry. My lightweight fleece pullover and my packable rain jacket never left the backpack once. Rain cover for backpack as well. Stayed at the bottom the entire Camino. Shorts and t-shirts everyday. I remember hydrating, and hydrating some more that day and it never seemed enough, lol. I stayed at the albergue Rio Arga Ibaia in Zubiri. Really nice. I remember after checking in I went to the kitchen and probably drank a litre of water from the sink faucet. I got there pretty early. First one there, I think. Talked with hospitalero in the kitchen and had a beer with him. Later had dinner with a few fellow pilgrims at a restaurant.
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
17 July 2019 - Camino Frances. Portomarin to Ventas de Narón

I woke up late this day and I was still feeling some aches and pains from my big push yesterday. I packed up and walked down into Portomarin seeking breakfast and went into one of the Cafes that were open on the main drag. I put my pack down in a booth and headed up to the counter to order and then realised that a group of about 25 people were in front of me and the group leader was in the process of putting in their order. I didn't fancy waiting an hour for the group to be served and so I retrieved my pack and headed off on the trail without coffee or sustenance, possibly not a good idea.

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Portomarin

Walked about 13 klms on a very hot July day and as I walked through Ventas de Narón I spotted this Bar/Albergue that looked like a nice place to rest my legs and maybe get a late breakfast. That was a good idea but the next bit not quite so good.

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Casa Molar

I ordered a hamburger, yeah, I know, not very Spanish but WTH. I also fancied a drink and the cheapest drink was a beer and so, first mistake, I ordered a beer to go with the hamburger.

The hamburger tasted great and the beer tasted even better!

I was still hungry and so I ordered another hamburger. I was also still thirsty and so I ordered another beer. Second mistake.

I took my time savouring the second hamburger and second beer. By this time it had got even hotter and so after sitting there for a while I decided that a third beer might help me cool down more and so I ordered a third beer. Third mistake.

After the third beer I decided that I needed a sleep! So I asked the bar lady if I could look at their rooms. A couple of smaller rooms looked hot and a little untidy but strangely the big bunk room was cool and clean and so I decided to end my day at Casa Molar. Had a shower and slept for a couple of hours, had another couple of beers until it was dusk and much cooler then went for a short exploration tour of Ventas de Narón. It is a tiny hamlet and so that didn't take long. By then it was time for dinner and bed.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
July 17th 2016-Camino Frances
Zubiri to Pamplona
Another very hot day and was happy to see the gate into Pamplona. Not really that far a walk and got there fairly early despite the heat. Stayed in the private albergue Casa Ibarolla, which I had stayed in before. It has air conditioning and they had it on that day. I remember it staying hot all the way until sunset, which is quite late that time of year. Around 9:00 pm I believe.
 
July 17, 2019 leaving Castro-Urdiales on Del Norte after yet another rest day heading to Islares. I witnessed a busy bee, home delivered pan and some beautiful scenery. Along the way I met three beautiful Italian ladies with whom I walked into the Campground with. There were only two bungalows left with two beds each. The Camino provides. ☺️ Oh and this steak with roasted padron peppers and fries, such a treat.
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18 July 2019 Camino Frances - Ventas de Narón to Melide
After my slack day yesterday I thought that I better kick on and so did 26 klms to Melide in very hot conditions although there was some shade along the way, see below.
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The Roman Bridge (Ponte de San Xoán de Furelos) in Furelos caught my eye from a distance.
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After finding a place to sleep in Melide (Albergue O Cruceiro, large but clean) I went out exploring. There was a street market over the road and some sort of travelling fair with rides and sideshows. I should have paid more attention because later, while trying to sleep, the noise from the fair and their loudhailers did not stop until around 2:30 am 😢. I walked further afield and noticed that squid seemed to be the speciality of Melide :confused: not sure why as it is a long way from the sea but decided to try it for myself.
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I doubt that I would try this again. It was okay but I don't think that it justifies the huge crowds of people eating it in this and other restaurants like it up and down the street.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
18. July 2019
CF, between Hospital de Órbigo and Rabanal:
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Full Moon behind Hospital de Órbigo
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Sunrise
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Shadow on the N-120
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Cruzero de Santo Toribio
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Thirsty Pilgrim
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Pilgrim's memorial in front of an albergue

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townhall of Astorga
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biscopal palace Astorga
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Cathedral of Astorga
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Entrance of the Albergue in Rabanal
 
July 18th 2016-Camino Frances
Woke up late. Another hot day and I just was not in the mood for walking and I never walk the Camino on a set schedule besides flights there and back. After breakfast at the albergue I roamed around Pamplona and decided to stay another day and went to the albergue Jesus y Maria. Very well run and gracious albergue.
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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
19 July 2021 - 5 years ago - in the Montes de Oca, between Villafranca Montes de Oca and Atapuerca.
Resting in the "Oasis". I understand that sometimes there is a donativo refreshment stand set up here. There wasn't in the morning when we walked through, but my son used it for a refreshing nap.
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July 19th 2016-Camino Frances
Pamplona to Uterga
Short walking day and since I was in no rush stopped in Uterga and stayed at the really nice private albergue, Camino del Perdon. I remember having a good dinner there.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
19 July 2019, Camino Frances - Melide to Santa Irene

Walked past the Cruceiro de Santa María de Melide on my way out of Melide. Reputably the oldest Cruceiro in Galicia.
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Then just down the road is the Igrexa de Santa María de Melide
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I stopped later on for breakfast and a coffee in Taberna de Parabispo
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Later, as I walked through A Peroxa, I grabbed this photo.
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Much later in Rivadiso I was delighted to spot two mounted policemen and this one was generous enough to allow me to pat his horse on the nose.
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Towards the end of a very hot day I was pleased to walk through this beautiful, shady spot near Arzúa.
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I arrived in Santa Irene about 3.30 pm. I stayed the night in Albergue Santa Irene and enjoyed my last evening before Santiago de Compostela sitting out on the terrace of Bar Cafe - Ar Sant Yag chatting to other pilgrims and enjoying the food and a beer or two. Albergue Santa Irene is smallish but its bunk rooms are large and that combined with the excitement meant that there wasn't much sleep for most people that night. There was a good clothes washing area at the albergue and so I washed my clothes ahead of my arrival in Santiago de Compostela.
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
July 20th 2016-Camino Frances
Uterga to Lorca
When I got to Puente la Reina I stopped for coffee and invested in a pair of inexpensive trekking poles at a small shoppe there. I think they were about 20 euros or so for the pair. Typical telescoping variety. Plenty good enough for walking the Camino which is not rough on any gear save for your shoes. The day before on the way down from Alto del Perdon I tweaked my left knee a bit on the rough area. Going a bit too fast trying to get around a bit of a jumble of other pilgrims. Should have slowed down, should have also had trekking poles already. Nonetheless the knee would trouble me the rest of the walk and cause me to shorten some days and even bus ahead two days after Carrion de los Condes so I could get to Santiago before my scheduled flight home from there. At Lorca I stayed at the private albergue La Bodega del Camino.
 
Our farmhouse/pilgrim place
photo taken July 22, 2017

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This happy fellow stayed with us 3 years ago. He had walked from Luxembourg via Reims to our farmhouse on route to Paris.

We then were part of a French donativo
.Chaîne d'Hospitalité Locale
Those who offered such hospitality did so for the pleasure of meeting/greeting pilgrims as well as helping them find their way
 
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July 21st 2013-Camino Frances
SJPdP
Arrived this date at SJPdP after taking the trains down from Paris. A bit late and after I roamed around a bit and decided to just stay at a hotel for the night. Went to the Hotel Central and got a small basic room there. Since I was staying in SJPdP the next day I figured I would get my credentials then and stay at an auberge the next night.
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July 21st 2016-Camino Frances
Lorca to Villamayor de Monjardin
Bit of a steep walk this day, but nice weather. Still very warm. At Villamayor stayed at the private albergue called Villamayor de Monjardin. It is definitely a quiet little village, but has everything for the pilgrim.
 
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July 22nd 2013-Camino Frances
SJPdP
Spent the day in SJPdP and moved to an auberge, Maison Esponda after getting my credentials and coffee and breakfast. Also had lunch and a beer at one of the restaurants. Just plain a lovely day in SJPdP.
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July 22st 2016-Camino Frances
Villamayor de Monjardin to Torres del Rio
In Torres del Rio stayed at the albergue Casa Mariela.
 
July 23rd 2013-Camino Frances
SJPdP to Roncesvalles
Headed out fairly early, but no real plan except to go to Roncesvalles. Had a sandwich in my pack to eat later and 1-1/2 litres of water. Three bottles that I refill. Beautiful day, not too hot. I made the spontaneous decision to take the ValCarlos route. Have done both, and both are really nice. Win win as they say. I believe I only saw about 4-5 other pilgrims that day on the ValCarlos. My only glitch was ran out of water earlier than I expected despite refilling in Valcarlos and by the time I was getting a few kilometres from Roncevalles I was very thirsty, but made it there okay and hydrated like a mad man after checking into the big albergue. I was also very hungry by the time I had dinner, the reserved routine there. Trout, french fries, salad, wine bread and dessert. I think I could have eaten two of the trout. I was asleep before lights out.
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July 23rd 2016-Camino Frances
Torres del Rio to Logrono
Fairly short walk to Logrono. Walked the whole way with a pilgrim couple. I stayed at a pensiones in Logrono, Pension San Juan-Sebastion. Later met the couple for drinks and tapas. Really nice evening.
 
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23 July, 2016 - 5 years ago today - between Hornillos del Camino and Castrojeriz
Villages can sneak up on you on the Meseta. Hontanas was probably less than 500 meters in front of me when I snapped this photo, yet you'd never know it was there. You can't even see the top of the church steeple.
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23 July, 2016 - 5 years ago today - between Hornillos del Camino and Castrojeriz
Villages can sneak up on you on the Meseta. Hontanas was probably less than 500 meters in front of me when I snapped this photo, yet you'd never know it was there. You can't even see the top of the church steeple.
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David Tallan,
We might not see that hidden steeple but your foreground shadow is wonderful!
 
24. July 2019
CF, between Sarria and Portomarin:

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up the hill, farewell, Sarria!
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sunrise between Sarria and O'Pico
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Horreo
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through the woods
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100km marker, wowzers
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Lake Balesar
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Portomarin
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San Nicolás
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townhall
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another view of the lake from Portomarin
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
July 24 2013-Camino Frances
Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Nice walk that day. I have never stayed in Larrasoana, always Zubiri. Maybe next Camino (God willing) I will. Change up things a bit. There were a lot of pilgrims but had no problem finding a place to stay in Zubiri. Some of us went down to the river that afternoon and waded in the cold water. Stayed at the Albergue Peregrinos.
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July 24th 2016-Camino Frances
Logrono to Najera
A bit of a longish walk that day. Najera a nice town on the Frances. Stayed at the private albergue Puerta de Najera. I remember it being really nice and modern.
 
Our farmhouse/pilgrim place
July 24, 2021

Yearning to hear the bells

Although physically I may not be in Santiago de Compostela nevertheless I yearn to hear the massive cathedral bells peal in celebration of the Feast of Saint James, July 25.

Within the city all will convene to celebrate this historic Catholic event and actively participate in age-old ecclesiastic pageantry and tradition.

Imagine if those present could be magically joined by all past pilgrims. Such a super-giant throng of celebrants would stretch back across one thousand years!

Whatever our ethnicity or beliefs, all pilgrims who walk or have walked the Camino share common bonds. All surely remember their personal thrill on arriving at last at the great cathedral, touching the hallowed stones, weeping with joy, and giving thanks as the great bells tolled.

At home in France tomorrow I shall, as always, also remember and listen for those far-distant, celebratory bells.

Ultreia!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
25. July 2019
CF, between Portomarin and Ponte Campaña:

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sunrise behind Portomarin
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landscape
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landscape, reminds me of the Harz, my basic trekking-mountain-range
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Palas de Rei
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Palas de Rei
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Horreo
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who didn't take a picture?
 
July 25th 2013-Camino Frances
Zubiri to Pamplona
In Pamplona stayed at the Jesus y Maria albergue. Dinner with other pilgrims that night.
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July 25th 2016-Camino Frances
Najera to Santo Domingo de Calzada
At Santa Domingo stayed at the big albergue ran by the confraternity. That day residents of the town served a dinner to pilgrims staying in the albergue. Traditional food of the area. Chorizo and potato soup, bread etc. It was very hospitable and gracious. Also went to mass. I like Santo Domingo. Really good place to stop on the Frances.
 
On this day of St James in 2019 after three nights hold up in Sahagun nursing a leg injury, I decided to get on the train to Leon because I still couldn’t walk without much pain. I was slow going but happy to be in a large city while I recuperated. I still had seven nights at the Leon Hostel, a fabulous place, before I was strong enough to move on.
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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
26. July 2019
CF, between Ponte Campaña and A Rua:

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Casa de los Somoza
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Bridge over river Furelos, outskirts of Melide
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Melide main street
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eucalyptus trees
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through the woods near Arzua
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Albergue El Aleman
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Igrexa de Santiago, Arzua
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blooming wall, Arzua
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empty A-54
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casa Tia Dolores
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
July 26th 2013-Camino Frances
Pamplona to Puente la Reina
At Puente la Reina stayed at the big albergue on the far end of town. Up on a hill. Albergue Santiago Apostol. Really nice. Restaurant and bar. Swimming pool. Several us went swimming after shower and daily pilgrim chores. That evening we back down into town and had dinner and there was a bit of a mini San Fermin going on. No running fighting bulls, but still some crazy cows. The whole town was celebrating. Really fun.
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July 26th 2016-Camino Frances
Santo Domingo del Calzada to Belorado
In Belorado stayed at the large private albergue, Cuatro Cantones.
 
27 July, 2016 - 5 years ago today - shortly before San Nicolás del Real Camino between Ledigos and Sahagun.
Wise words, perhaps. But we stopped at the first bar because that's where the people we knew were sitting. And friendly, familiar fellow pilgrims make the better bar. Besides, we expected ulterior motives from the sign's author.
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27. July 2019 (last day)
CF, between A Rua and Santiago de Compostela:
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the whole way from A Rua it was raining
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view from Monte do Gozo to the City
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nothing more to say
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Pilgrims gifts to the sign
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very rainy
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on afternoon, sun bursts through and it became a nice evening
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the stairs....
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who were the models?
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view of the cathedral at night

Sad to say, that the planned CP coastal on my vacation in fall had to be postponed like the planned one on the easter-break this year.
I will not book a flight to Porto that can't be refunded, nor will I risk to be quarantined, so I will enjoy crossing the Alps by walking from Germany to Italy next week.
 

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July 27th 2013-Camino Frances
Puente la Reina to Estella
In Estella stayed at the albergue Los Amigos Del Camino de Santiago. Don't remember it, though. Nice day to walk and a relatively short walk to Estella. I do remember a lot of pilgrims, but no issues finding a bed.
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July 27th 2016-Camino Frances
Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca
Warm, dry day as was all of them on this Camino and warm all the way into the evening until sundown, which was very late everyday. Even warm when I got to Galicia and 100% rain free. Made it a short day today because my left knee was just bothering me too much. Stayed at the private albergue, San Anton Abad. Really nice, though not much going on in town.
 
28 July, 2016 - 5 years ago today - near Bercianos del Real Camino between Sahagun and Reliegos
As we walked past these trees in the morning I was thinking how they were cleverly planted so as not to provide shade in the morning, when most pilgrims would be walking in the hot summer. But we ended up walking until 2 pm, so we were able to appreciate them in the end.
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
29 July, 2016 - 5 years ago today - Just before Leon
There were lots of great photos from Leon I took today but I picked this one from just before to share. It may not look like a bit of heaven on Earth but it was. The walk into Leon was very challenging, kilometre after kilometre in the blistering heat without shade through the industrial outskirts. Then, out of nowhere we saw this table. It had really cold drinks nestled among ice cubes and fruit, and a sign saying take what you want and if you want to donate towards drinks for future pilgrims, feel free. The cold water was so good!
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29 July, 2016 - 5 years ago today - Just before Leon
There were lots of great photos from Leon I took today but I picked this one from just before to share. It may not look like a bit of heaven on Earth but it was. The walk into Leon was very challenging, kilometre after kilometre in the blistering heat without shade through the industrial outskirts. Then, out of nowhere we saw this table. It had really cold drinks nestled among ice cubes and fruit, and a sign saying take what you want and if you want to donate towards drinks for future pilgrims, feel free. The cold water was so good!
View attachment 105826
David Tallan,
Your photo is a perfect image of camino serendipity!
 
30 July, 2016 - 5 years ago today - Valverde de la Virgen
This day was a slog through the industrial outskirts of Leon. This was the only photo I took while walking.
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
A good thing we are nearly at the end of July, this thread is taking ages to load!
 

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