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On the Camino, on this date in October

trecile

Camino Addict
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
The thread that I started last year has become rather long, so here's a new thread to post pictures, musings, etc. from any year for any dates in October on any Camino.

When you respond, please mention the year, route you were on and where you walked (or rested) that day. Thanks!

Also, if you are posting multiple pictures upload them as thumbnails.
 
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mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 1 and 2, 2004
Trinidad de Arre and Cizur Menor


It was a hot day, but thankfully walking on the CF to Trinidad de Arre was easier than down to Zubiri. The path was a rich mix; medieval bridges criss-crossed the famous Arga River where Hemingway had liked to fish and Coke machines were now installed to serve thristy pilgrims!

Trinidad de Arre, camino 1.JPG

After 13 km I arrived at Arre and the small monastery La Trinidad. Scenically located on a riverbank, it also had been an important pilgrim refuge throughout the ages. The Marist father offered a most refreshing glass of cold water as he stamped my Credencìal.

Accommodations were in a refitted barn within the simple monastery garden. Sitting outside writing my diary all seemed timeless.
Happily, I was starting to relax and feel at one with the trail.


Next morning I walked to/ through the city of Pamplona after entering via the Portal de Francia. Like most cities and towns along the trail here urban development is closely associated with the history of the Camino Frances. During the Middle Ages ‘burgos de francos’ or independent neighborhoods had been settled by former pilgrims.

The cathedral interior and Gothic cloister were filled with priceless treasures. To visit I paid the lesser pilgrim price by showing my Credencial.

Cizur Menor 2004.jpg

The weather turned hot and humid so I stopped in Cizur Menor at the well-known private refuge run by the Roncal family for more than 50 years. Seeing a scallop shell hung at their open doorway I immediately sensed that pilgrims were welcome to enter.
 
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AJGuillaume

Pèlerin du monde
Past OR future Camino
Via Gebennensis (2018)
Via Podiensis (2018)
Voie Nive Bidassoa (2018)
Camino Del Norte (2018)
On the Camino del Norte, 2 October 2018
Our wedding anniversary is on 2 October, and three years ago, I wouldn't have found a better place to celebrate 36 years with the love of my life than on the Camino.
39 years today, and we hope we'll celebrate our 40th anniversary on the Camino in 2022, after our Australian borders open.
IMG_20181002_101055.jpg
 
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frbobs

Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances-(2014)
Camino Portugues-(2017)
Camino Madrid (August 2019)
The French Way, October 2014.
The first picture is just past San Anton Monastery, toward Castrojeriz , on Oct 1st. The next one is in Astorga, Oct. 11th, and the next two are between the Cruz de Ferro and Ponferrada, Oct. 13th. The last one is just before Sarria, Oct.17th.
Thanks for the reminder to reminisce a bit. It is still a vivid, almost surreal, memory of a life altering experience. Peace, Bob

Camino Oct 1st 2014.jpg Astorga.jpg Camino Oct 2014.jpg cruz de ferro Oct 13th.jpg Camino Sun.jpg
 

stevelm1

Recovering Perigrino
Past OR future Camino
CF 2015, CP 2019, Jakobswege Germany 2022 or 23.
The morning of Oct 2, 2015 I was just leaving Carrión de los Condes on the Camino Frances, beginning that long 17 km walk to Terradullos. It was a cool start to the day, but it was not raining. I remembered to look back every few minutes to catch the sunrise. The trail was very populated. I got a series of photos that morning. Here are two. You may not remember the lake along the road as it only exists in my camera. ;-)
 

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mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 3 and 4, 2004
Puente la Reina


Climbing up the Alto de Perdon on the CF was hard and steep. Those hills pardon no one. The landscape was beige beneath gray clouds; the air chilly.

Suddenly my knees throbbed and my nose bled. Lying on the side of the trail with my eyes closed I felt a tap on my shoulder; “Are you all right?” asked a very British voice.

Opening my eyes I saw a young fellow with long hair, wearing a gray kimono, black obi sash and wooden clogs! While wondering if I were hallucinating I answered that I was ok. Nodding he went on and soon I did also.

Alto de Perdon, camino 1.JPG

Near the summit this huge, handsome contemporary sculpture in rusted steel silhouetted pilgrim figures and their packs against the dark grey sky.
Going down was pure hell on slippery stones; by the time I hobbled into Puente la Reina I could barely move.

Stopping for the night at the refuge of the Padres Reparadores I met again and queried the kimono-clad fellow. He wears it because he “likes it” and walks the trail continually because he “can’t go home”.


Puente La Reina .jpg

My knees ached so much that I decided to spend an extra day in Puente la Reina. Since pilgrims can generally only spend one night at each albergue, early morning I dragged myself across this famous Romanesque bridge after which the town is named, checked into a new private refuge and was back asleep by 9 am!

Late afternoon I practiced walking leaning heavily on my stick. Unwilling to be grounded after only one week and unable to imagine mounting up into a train to return to Paris, I gritted my teeth determined to persevere. ...
 
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Rowena

Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances(2015, 2018) Le Puy-SJPP(2016) Geneva Way(2017) Portugués Muxia Fisterra(2019) Invierno(2021)
October 4, 2015 Bercianos to Reliegos

It rained all day. A strong wind came at us relentlessly from the left, so that the rain fell almost horizontally. We got really wet, but only on one side. The flat featureless landscape was made even duller by the rain. The albergue was cold and damp and the clothes and boots didn’t dry out overnight. The weather was part of hurricane Joaquin out in the Atlantic. Anyone else remember walking in that?

FF5B5D5D-1750-40D7-AD45-F89B2958B448.jpeg
 
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mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 5 and 6, 2004
Villatuerta and Estella

Cirauqui, Roman ruins.jpg

There were many ups and downs walking toward Villatuerta on the CF. At Cirauqui crossing this ruined Roman bridge alone and climbing/crawling up the distant precarious "steps" of irregular stones was nerve wracking. Using my stick for balance was vital.

towards Villatuerta, camino 1.JPG

Further along near Lorca the path was easier and broader following antique cart routes and crossing another (restored) Roman bridge.

At Villatuerta I stopped for the night in a simple albergue within a new brick building on the Calle Major. Two men, one Spanish one German, were the other pilgrims; our common language was pantomine spiced with much laughter.


east of Estella.jpg

Next morning walking was easy; dense vegetation lined the slightly descending path towards Estella

Estella , cross.jpg


This cross marked arrival into Estella on the south side of the river Ega. Set amidst small conical hills the beautiful sandstone town dating from Roman times mainly developed in the 12-13th c. due to the ecclesiatical/commercial importance of the Camino or Rúa as it was known locally.

My knees hurt but it was too early to enter the municipal albergue; thus I just sat in the nearby tourist office. The helpful guy who staffed it spoke several languages; he had lived in NYC for a while and we compared memories of favorite haunts. The café he suggested for lunch might have been in NYC's Soho! It was so pleasant that I later returned for an early dinner in the patio with other pilgrims. ...All in all this was a happy day.
 

mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 7, 2004
to Villamayor de Monjardin



This day would prove to be both aesthetically and socially perfect.

5 km west of Estella I watched as dawn lit the isolated monumental Irache Abbey.

Irache, sunrise, camino 1.JPG

After circumscribing the exterior 12th c. buildings I entered the Romanesque church.

Monastery of Santa Maria de Irache.jpg

All was Cistercian and unadorned; the stone walls and imposing pillars were illuminated by a few slender alabaster windows. Peace reigned. It was a privilege to experience such a special place.

The next 7 km of route climbed through vineyards to Villamayor de Monjardin.

Villamayor de Monjardin, camino 1.JPG

Tired I stopped at a storefront for a welcome drink. Upon discovering that this was a tiny albergue run by the church parish I stayed.

The vivacious Spanish housefather hung his wash in the churchyard. During the afternoon other pilgrims staggered in. The housefather cooked a simple meal for all. We shared it sitting together outdoors in the dark; the roadside was our dining 'room'.

There were a few Spanish fellows, a young couple from Venezuela, and three women, one Spanish, one Norwegian, and me, the token American.
...It was a great mix of pilgrims, vibes and especially, caritas!
 
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mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 8 and 9, 2004
Los Arcos and Torres del Rio


East of Los Arcos, camino 1.jpg

Sad at moving on I slowly walked 12 km to Los Arcos across these seemingly endless fields.

The municipal albergue seemed over crowded and noisy. However, it was nice to meet again the Venezuelan couple from the previous night in Villamayor de Monjardin; we three lamented the drastic change of mood.

Next morning after 10 km through more vineyards beneath a deep blue sky, I arrived at Torres del Rio. Here is found a small octagonal Romanesque church, Santo Sepulcro.

Santo Sepulcro.JPG

Some historians link this to the Knights Templar who protected the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem; others link it to the nearby monastery at Irache. Whatever, it is a small gem.

Santo Sepulcro, interior.jpg

Looking up into the ceiling of the central cupola crossed by ribbed vaults which form eight-sided stars was mesmerizing.
 
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mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 10, 2004
towards Viana


The section of the CF west of Torres del Rio crossed a deep ravine described on maps as mataburros or the mule-killer; not wanting to add to my physical woes, I decided to follow a road and avoid the trail.

Towards Viana%0A.jpg

Within central Viana the municipal albergue dorms had bunks in triple tiers! Luckily I found a bottom one.Very crowded the space soon resembled a movie scene of a tightly packed WW2 troop ship! Since some troops were “très sportif" those upper bunks kept swaying back and forth throughout the night.
 
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Rowena

Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances(2015, 2018) Le Puy-SJPP(2016) Geneva Way(2017) Portugués Muxia Fisterra(2019) Invierno(2021)
Thank you, @mspath. I have been following your 2004 journey with interest. I imagine the Frances was much less crowded on your first Camino than on mine.

I remember this day being the important Spanish holiday, having difficulty finding a place to stay, and ending up at the hotel in Ambasmestas. The hotel dinner time was too late, so supper was a rather tough bocadillo from a bar across the street.
 

mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 11, 2004
Logroño

towards Logroño .jpg


Walking on the CF towards the prosperous city of Logroño and the endless vineyards of La Rioja was an easy pleasure


Logrono, Iglesia de Santiago el Real.jpg


In the city center the majestic church, Iglesia de Santiago el Real, is dedicated to Saint James. On the Baroque south entrance, best seen from the Calle Santiago. Saint James is depicted in two different guises associated with his legend.

Santiago el Real, detail 1%0A.jpg


On the lower level just above the door Saint James appears as a gentle pilgrim wearing a broad brimmed hat and cape, holding a staff and shell.


Santiago el Real, detail 2%0A.jpg

On the upper level Saint James is the Matamoros/Moor slayer. As a valiant warrior he rides a spirited white horse beneath which lie slain Moors.

This pose is associated with the imaginary/legendary battle site of Clavijo where in the 9th c. the Spanish while fighting the Moors "saw" in the sky an apparition of Saint James on horseback. The Spanish would be victorious and, thus, began the Reconquest of Spain.

Of course, in today’s ecumenical and/or politically correct world this pose is a no-no..
 
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Past OR future Camino
CF 2006,08,09,11,12(2),13(2),14,16(2),18(2) Aragones 11,12,VDLP 11,13,Lourdes 12,Malaga 16,Port 06
On or around this date, in October of 2006, we were on the Portuguese route (central).
My gosh, was I ever this young?

One photo is of the Carvalho Oak. My last name is Carvalho and my family was originally from this area (after arriving from the Middle East there) They then settled in the Azore Islands. The surname "Carvalho" means oak tree. Many Jews and Moslems were forced to change their religion to Catholic, and those who did had their surnames also changed to names of trees and plants like Carvalho (oak) and Periera (pear) and Castanheira (chestnut), Silva (bramble). So this sacred tree was a fun find!

The other photos are why I don't care for that central route. We Portuguese are known for our crazy driving and there was literally no shoulder to walk on. We held our sticks high with bright orange handkerchiefs tied to the top to alert drivers (hopefully) that we were coming round the corner. Nerve wracking!
 

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mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 13, 2004
to Nájera


Navarrete, cemetery.JPG

Entering Navarrete I had passed ruins of a medieval pilgim hostel and on the west of the town this doorway from that hostel was repurposed as the cemetery entrance.

Vineyard, near Nájera.jpg

Crossing vineyards beneath a deep blue sky the 16 km hike towards Nájera was pleasant, despite the orange colored mud.

Nájera, cliffs and caves.jpg

Nájera is sited along the river Najerilla at the base of high, red sandstone cliffs and caves. The Arabic name means place between the rocks.

Nájera, monastery.jpg

The town’s major monument is the medieval monastery of Santa Maria la Real; in 2004 it was closed for major renovation.
 
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jsalt

Jill
Past OR future Camino
Portugués, Francés, LePuy, Rota Vicentina, Norte, Madrid, C2C, Salvador, Primitivo, Aragonés, Inglés
Leaving Deba Albergue on the Norte, 13 October 2016. I really liked this albergue above the railway station, although I have no idea why. It was completo and a really nasty virus was going around, so that everyone sounded as though they were sick that night . . .
DebaAlbergue.jpg
 

Phoenix

Generic member
Past OR future Camino
2022
1634217304696.jpeg

14 Oct 2019

Some much needed motivation painted on a retaining wall at the top of a steep hill. A week and approximately 90 miles walked on torn meniscus, the pain was overwhelming. The graffiti reminded me that I must keep going.

CP between Tui and Redondela
 
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mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 15, 2004
Granon


Trudging across an ocher landscape beneath a heavy sky and against a biting wind I arrived at Granon. I’m so glad that I stopped!

Open all day the parish albergue withn the belfry of the church of San Juan Bautista, was special. The sign read “Welcome pilgrim make this your home”.

Granon, camino 1.jpg

This handsome common room had a fireplace and comfortable furnishing. Above on a large balcony were mats to place beneath your sleeping bag. Kitchen and toilets were new and well equipped. One could really relax.

In the early evening we pilgrims were invited to attend mass. The church was filled with splendid 16th c. pieces.

Granon, church art, camino 1.jpg

Later the gregarious priest joined us pilgrims upstairs for dinner. Townspeople offered food. ...Authenticity and true caritas made Granon unique.
 

Rowena

Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances(2015, 2018) Le Puy-SJPP(2016) Geneva Way(2017) Portugués Muxia Fisterra(2019) Invierno(2021)
October 15, 2015

The early morning phenomenon of the “floating islands” before Palas de Rei

E614BE46-965D-4EA3-8BE3-84A23E55E939.jpeg

October 15, 2016

Leaving Aire sur L’Adour, on the Le Puy route to SJPP, and the first glimpse of the Pyrenees on the horizon

A975AA2F-C3C8-43DE-9201-5A2C4549B2C2.jpeg 0B274E8E-3D1C-4816-B2C1-85FB1CF68C48.jpeg
 

mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 16, 2004
near Redecilla del Camino


West of Granon the CF entered the region of Castille and Leon.

Castille and Leon, sign.jpg

Relentless wind and cold air necessitated gloves, muffler and a woolly cap. Walking seemed easier; my knees no longer hurt. One pilgrim passed wearing a shirt that read ‘slow, but dependable’; that should be my motto!

Redecilla del Camino.jpg

I stopped at Redecilla del Camino to see this handsome Romanesque baptismal font which is carved in a circular pattern depicting towers and windows.
 
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mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 17, 2004
Villafranca Montes de Oca


The wind had ceased so walking the CF to Villafranca Montes de Oca across farm fields felt easier.

Villafranca Montes de Oca.jpg

Within a repurposed school on the N-120 route, the municipal albergue was simple, but definitely sufficient.

The front door was open.
In the entry was a pilgrim registry to sign with a simple welcome notice stating:
.....The dorm was up the stairs,
.....Choose a bunk upon arrival,
.....The hospitalera would stamp/collect later

Furthermore showers were on the ground floor and toilets next to the dòrm. Shower water was hot, radiators were warm and blankets were plentiful.

After choosing a bunk by unrolling my sleeping bag I set out for food. At the restaurant/truck stop nearby, only the bar was open yet the bartender/cook quickly produced fried eggs with mountain ham, fresh bread and vino tinto for my afternoon "snack."

...Nothing else was necessary; what more could any pilgrim need or want?
 

trecile

Camino Addict
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
Leaving Deba Albergue on the Norte, 13 October 2016. I really liked this albergue above the railway station, although I have no idea why. It was completo and a really nasty virus was going around, so that everyone sounded as though they were sick that night . . .
View attachment 111142

I also really liked that albergue too.
 

Rowena

Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances(2015, 2018) Le Puy-SJPP(2016) Geneva Way(2017) Portugués Muxia Fisterra(2019) Invierno(2021)
October 17, 2015
Santiago at last!

90D7FD0B-A06F-4C1E-9CA0-4CC26363C508.jpeg


October 17, 2019
The first day on the Camino Portugués, starting at the cathedral in Porto. Mist floated above the narrow winding cobbled streets, and shrouded the city with its delicate film. Smoke rose from the many roasted chestnut carts and a fine drizzle permeated the air.

2968E527-689F-4AD6-9DA2-93A9DD834731.jpeg

I spent the first night in Matosinhos at the Pensao Central, ready to walk along the coast to Vila do Conde the next day before crossing to the Central route.
 
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mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 18, 2004
San Juan de Ortega



Monte de Oca 18.10.2004.JPG

Within the Montes de Oca forest
where a dirt road crossed the CF this white van was parked; a tall bearded fellow asked in English “would you like to rest and have a tea?” Slightly dubious, but glad to sit, I did.

We chatted about the weather, the Camino, and, more philosophically, purpose in life. His was helping pilgrims. When I asked “Are you and your tea always accepted?” “Generally”, he answered, “but the French rarely stop!” Right on cue a French couple came into view. When he offered tea I added “C’est très bon!” ;they stopped.

After we all had tea I continued to the monastery of San Juan de Ortega. Here are more memories of that afternoon/evening at the monastery.
 
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mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 19, 2004
Cardenuela


In chill rain I slowly walked west out of the Montes de Oca forest to Olmos de Atapuerca.

towards Cardenuela.jpg

Looking towards Villaval, Cardenuela Riopico and Burgos on the distant horizon, the rolling greenery was broken only by the giant curve of the trail. Reduced to basics this was a perfect image; not an imagined vision, but a memorable vista. Alone on that endless path beneath the vast dome of an immense sky I sensed that this was, indeed, my way and all was and would be good.

Later at Cardenuela after the barkeeper served a copious pilgrim menu he handed me a key to the brand new municipal albergue. In the evening the jubilant mayor knocked at the albergue door and formally shook my hand. After watching me to sign the new pilgrim register, he left. ...Alone for the night I relaxed; it had been a tiring day.
 
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mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 20, 2004
to Burgos



When I first visited the Burgos cathedral/museum although the interior was magnificent, I was too tired to absorb much. For courage I reviewed one of the timeless adages associated with the Camino,
if a pilgrim makes it to the city of Burgos,
(s)he can make it to Santiago.

Camino 1 2004.jpg

Within the cathedral/museum was this exquisite mid-15th c. reliquary/figure. Roughly 30cm. high clad in vermeil/ gold plate on silver, Saint James wears a pilgrim hat complete with shell atop his delightfully precise curls. Sainthood is depicted by the flat halo behind his head. He grips his pilgrim staff and from one shoulder hangs a tiny traveling bag known as a scrip also decorated with shells.

...Later falling asleep I recalled this perfection as I still do today.
 
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mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 22, 2004
to Hontanas


Worried that I was progressing too slowly I walked in drizzle on the CF over ochre colored hills. The bleak landscape, an immense Castilian plateau, is known as the ‘Meseta’. Treeless, it must be hot as hell in summer.

I stopped at Hontanas.

Hontanas, camino 1.jpg

The municipal albergue had a wonderful camino tradition. The door was always kept ajar in case any pilgrim at any time needed refuge.

Within a small historic structure much had been recently redone using ordinary plywood for sleeping platforms, divisions and doors within the dorms. All was simply wood, terra cotta, or stone. Heated and with appropriately designed HOT showers it was a bargain at 5€.
...I was delighted to be so comfortable!
 
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mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 23, 2004
Castrojeriz


Castrojeriz,  23.10.2004.jpg

Castrojeriz evolved from an antique castrum to an important pilgrim stop/major municipality of interconnected levels along the slope of a broad hill during 1000 years of history

Atop the distant hill are the remains of a 13th c. castle; this is postcard Spain. At the entrance to Castrojeriz the camino turns west continuing for 1200 m. as the longitudinal urban spine; thus, it would take nearly half an hour to traverse the town, which has one long "main street", the camino.
 

mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 25, 2004
to Carrión de los Condes


In Itero de la Vega I had met a young Quebeçoise pilgrim; we walked together for a few days. Eventually we arrived at Carrión de los Condes which during the Middle Ages had become an important religious/commercial/political center with more than seven pilgrim hospices.

Carrion de los Condes, camino 1 .jpg

We stayed in the monastery of Santa Clara where St Francis of Assisi in the early 13th c. is said to have stopped during his pilgrimage to Santiago. In this pilgrim Refugio the Quebeçoise and I in contemporary comfort shared a twin bedded room; after weeks in a sleeping bag the clean, freshly ironed sheets felt luxurious!
 

mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 26, 2004
to Calzadilla de la Cueza


After morning coffee the Quebeçoise said a hasty “au revoir” and caught a bus to Leon.
She would cover in an hour and half bus ride what would take me the next week to walk!

old Roman route.jpg

I continued alone. Following an old Roman route, the Via Trajana, this perfectly straight section of the CF was paved. There was nothing but sky, path and grain fields. Lonesome I waved to a distant farmer in his tractor plowing.

After 16 km which seemed endless I stopped in the tiny hamlet of Calzadilla de la Cueza at the friendly, open albergue. Later in the nearby resto/bar a man at the next table nodded. “Good day madam ..Oh it’s you!” he said surprised. He then explained to his bemused wife that from the tractor he had seen me wave.

The couple then kindly helped choose my Sunday lunch as we shared vino de la casa.
..Friendly gestures do matter!
 
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mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 27, 2004
to Sahagun


Sahagun, camino 1%0A.JPG

Under gray skies and rain the CF was slippery brown mud across brown fields. Eventually I arrived at the municipal albergue in Sahagun, a friendly place in a repurposed church. This clever contemporary metal sculpture of Saint James dressed as a pilgram (his head was a garden spade) marked the entrance

Sahagun for centuries had been home to the most powerful Benedictine monastery in Spain, equivalent to Cluny in France. ‘Facundo’, the name of a local martyr, became ‘Sanctum Facundum’, the name of the monastery, which evolved into ‘Safagun’ and later ‘Sahagun’. Most of the huge monastery complex had been destroyed in a 19th c. fire.
 

Rowena

Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances(2015, 2018) Le Puy-SJPP(2016) Geneva Way(2017) Portugués Muxia Fisterra(2019) Invierno(2021)
October 28, 2019
On the Variante Espiritual, a long hard climb up in the morning, then down the other side along the Ruta da Pedro y de Auga.
 
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nycwalking

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Ourense to Santiago (2019), CF: (2014, 2004, 2002, 2001). On to Fisterra, (2002, 4, 14).
I started my second camino in SJPP 2002.

I walked to Grañon where I met Father Jose Ignacio to receive my hospitalera post. Stayed the night there. He asked me to read the Our Father during candlelight service in attic choir stalls. I loved the communal meal which I helped serve.

Next day, I resumed my camino. I walked as far as Ponferrada where I was a hospitalera for nearly three weeks. I then resumed camino in October 22, 2002.

October 28, 2002 I walked from Sarria to Portomarín. I don’t recall much. I bypassed the steps via the road. No steps again. In 2001, when in Portomarín I was reading Dante’s Divine Comedy. I was on last book Paradiso; and was shocked when I came upon mention of camino in novel.
 

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mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 29, 2004
Mansilla de las Mulas



Storks, Mansilla de las Mulas.jpg

Storks nested on roof tops were a surprising sight as I entered Mansilla de las Mulas on the CF after crossing a vast monotonous plateau dotted with arroyos (gullies).
The etymology of the town’s name is
mano en silla, hand on saddle of the mule.
 

mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 30, 2004
to Leon


Hiking 17 km into the city of Leon was cold and harrowing since the CF often crossed a busy national highway. At Puente Villarente the historic bridge was too narrow for two lanes of traffic plus pedestrians. After an oncoming truck almost pushed me off into the rio Porma I shook with fear!

Leon , cathedral interior.jpg

Arriving in Leon I first visited the massive Gothic cathedral; within that vast dim mysterious interior the jewel-toned stained glass was glorious.

However, I was exhausted and anxious to stop in the nearby Benedictine convent, Santa Maria de la Carbajalas; their albergue had large separate dorms for men and women pilgrims plus good showers, but no heat. Nevertheless snuggling in my sleeping bag I was cosy.
 
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Rowena

Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances(2015, 2018) Le Puy-SJPP(2016) Geneva Way(2017) Portugués Muxia Fisterra(2019) Invierno(2021)
October 30, 2019

Santiago Peregrino, 17th century carving, Church of Santiago in Padron

B67ED388-8F8C-45F0-ABE6-E7F24D79A59A.jpeg
 

mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 31, 2004
passing La Virgen del Camino


Located seven km west of Leon the sprawling village, La Virgen del Camino, is named for a famous 15th c. figure of the Virgin holding the dead body of Christ. Today the figure is in a splendid contemporary church designed in the 1960s by a Dominican monk, Francisco Coello, a follower of the Brutalist style of Le Corbusier.

La Virgen del Camino, exterior.JPG

Deep yellow windows light the interior of this extraordinary structure.

La Virgen del Camino.jpg
 
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Rowena

Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances(2015, 2018) Le Puy-SJPP(2016) Geneva Way(2017) Portugués Muxia Fisterra(2019) Invierno(2021)
October 31, 2019 The church of Santa Maria at Iria Flavia, just past Padron on the CP. It was closed when I arrived, so I admired the exterior and the cemetery. Very soon a lady came and opened up the doors. The church dates back to Roman times, and was a cathedral before Santiago de Compostela.


FD9B0EAD-C00E-4CEA-8BB9-1C99A7E47B1F.jpeg 9326E010-AA2B-4E64-8BD8-A768C80C0D22.jpeg
 

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