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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 7.0

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Us:Camino Frances, 2015 Me:Catalan/Aragonese, 2019
Civil War fortifications by a road. Camino Catalan between Monzón and Berbegal.
View attachment 112205
The next day I came upon another reminder of the Civil War. This memorial lists the names of locals who were killed in the conflict. It has the date August 1936 inscribed. That was early in the war so likely it was erected later to memorialize losses that occured that month. Repairs suggest that partisans of the other side vandalized it. Fresh flowers were placed at the base; probably an early All Souls Day remembrance as that was just a few days away.

IMG_20191030_111946-01.jpeg
 
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kohara

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Portugues 2019
Del Norte 2020
A lovely but tiring day on the norte from Llanes to Cuerres in the height of summer. Had a bit of a scare walking through a field near the hamlet of La Pesa, only realising half way through that one of the many cows basking in the sun was a bit different than the others.., and here i was with my bright red hiking top on! Luckily a kind man working at the nice casa rectoral hostel pointed to me from above, that all was fine, just skirt around the edge of the field.
Anyhow i had a bit of an appetite that evening when i finally arrived in Cuerres. Ordered for the first time a Cachopo Asturiano, being only a wee lad (5 foot 7/171 cm) i baulked when this appeared on my plate! I was glad i didnt order a starter, thought i would only get through half of it but how wrong i was!

Asturias.jpg
asturias1.jpg
 

mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
Entering Rioja
photos taken October 27, 2015

entering Rioja.jpg

Trudging along this familiar CF path entering Rioja I wanted to rest but no rock, log or bench was in sight.

Eventually I came upon a laden table, two camp chairs and two standing fellows; smiling they explained that they were members of a local brotherhood which helped pilgrims and the poor! I declined their kind offer of something to eat or drink; however I asked if I might just sit on a chair! They nodded and I happily sat .

entering Rioja 2.jpg

As we chatted a Korean pilgrim soon arrived. He, too, was tired, spotted my 'borrowed' seat and inquired if he could use the other chair!

When the Brothers asked us what future pilgrims might most desire -- water, hot chocolate, or cake?
Both the Korean pilgrim and I replied in unison "More seats would be great !"
 
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A restful spot by the roadside, near Valcarlos, CF May 2016.
Gorgeous.
Buttercups and moss, with the odd cranesbill for color. The moss really impressed me along that route ; it was so beautiful. But then...I'm a great admirer of the humble power of mosses.

Sometimes what's growing beside a road in the middle of nowhere can take your breath away.
Cornflowers, poppies, and rapeseed. making a natural display; a bit before Monasterio de Rodilla on the Via de Bayona.
20190529_074706.jpg
 
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Sometimes what's growing beside a road in the middle of nowhere can take your breath away.
I was going to continue picking pictures in the two years ago manner but @VNwalking's comment prompted me to jump ahead one day.

Not a wildflower and not beside the road but almost in the middle of the road. On entering Bolea I found this marigold growing in a patch of soil just off center in a wide spot of dirt road.

IMG_20191101_145157-01.jpeg Screenshot_20200506-084655-01.jpeg
 

Chenahusky

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CPort. Tui May 2019
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Gorgeous.
Buttercups and moss, with the odd cranesbill for color. The moss really impressed me along that route ; it was so beautiful. But then...I'm a great admirer of the humble power of mosses.

Sometimes what's growing beside a road in the middle of nowhere can take your breath away.
Cornflowers, poppies, and rapeseed. making a natural display; a bit before Monasterio de Rodilla on the Via de Bayona.
View attachment 112299
Another botanical view from the Valcarlos route. CF 2016.

IMG_20160527_102313176.jpg
 

mspath

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Santiago de Compostela
Libredon Barbantes Hostal

photos taken March 26, 2011


Santiago, Libredon Barbantes, interior .jpg Santiago, Libredon Barbantes, detail .jpg


At the end of my early caminos I happily stayed at the Libredon Barbantes centrally located around the corner from the Cathedral on the Praza de Fonseca. From my cosy attic room's ceiling window I could see the Torre da Berenguela as well as hear the great bells chime; I felt at home as if that belltower view and those sounds were mine alone.
 
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Santiago de Compostela
Libredon Barbantes Hostal

photos taken March 26, 2011


View attachment 112347 View attachment 112348


At the end of my early caminos I happily stayed at the Libredon Barbantes centrally located around the corner from the Cathedral on the Praza de Fonseca. From my cosy attic room's ceiling window I could see the Torre da Berenguela as well as hear the great bells chime; I felt at home as if that belltower view and those sounds were mine alone.
Something I have loved since my first visit to Spain is in your first photo. The practical and artistic use of very limited space, seen in the desktop that slides in and out. Let me take the opportunity to say how much I enjoy every one of your context sections for your photos.
 
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Albergue El Beso, a few kms past Triacastella. It looks a bit rough around the edges from the outside, but is a really delightful place. Homegrown organic veggies for dinner, hammocks in the trees above the albergue, and the kindness of Jessica and Marijn - who know pilgrims because they met on the camino.
IMG_8449.JPG IMG_8448 (2).JPG
 
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mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
Villalcazar de Sirga
sharing tips

photo taken February 9, 2008

Villalcazar de Sirga.jpg

On the local train from Bayonne to Saint Jean Pied de Port this French pilgrim and I had met; he needed a shepherd and I became his shepherdress sharing the CF trail, trials and tips for two unforgetable months.
 

SabineP

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some and then more. see my signature.
Santiago to Finisterre.jpg

Tile. Walking from the Praza do Obradoiro to Rua Hortas ( I believe this small street is called Costa do Cristo, the one parallel to the terrace of the Parador ? ) .On the way to Finisterre in 2016.

I will be on a short holiday this week so no posts here from me.But I will certainly pop in to see what the catch of the day is!
 
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Aniés on the Catalan. I didn't see anyone in town but I greeted a friendly dog. That was a bad move. It decided to lead me out of town, way out of town. It knew which way strangers wanted to walk. It took me some time to get in front of it to shoo it back.
IMG_20191102_111631.jpg
 
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Rowena

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2022
I met one of those dogs somewhere in France. He came running out of his yard and led the way for at least 10 kilometers. I couldn’t shoo him away, even spending half an hour in a cafe hoping he would go home, but he waited outside. Eventually some children in a village asked if he was mine. After that he went off with them. Perhaps he did that all the time.

C0F7819E-6405-40AF-A538-ABF35F13BCC7.jpeg
 

mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
Villalcazar de Sirga
Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca

photo taken November 6, 2011


Villalcazar de Sirga, Iglesia, interior.jpg

Sacred, eternal beauty endures
within the dimly lit masive and austere
12th-14th c. fortress-church, Santa María la Blanca, originally built by/for the Knights Templer and later a royal Marian sanctuary .
 

dick bird

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Plata, Ingles, Madrid, Norte, Primitivo, Invierno, Aragones, Olvidado, Chemin D'Arles
View attachment 112358

Hostal Suso in Santiago de Compostela. Bit of luxury. Rua do Vilar.

From the window of said hotel. We stayed there in 2015, realising as we walked up the stairs that we had stayed there before, in a pre-camino life around 1986/7. A very different Santiago back then, and a very different hotel Suso - for one thing the rooms were about twice the size and half the price. But we were very different too.

DSC00406.JPG DSC00407.JPG
 
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Two years ago I was on the Camino Catalan (and later the Aragonese) and since rejoining the thread I've been sending in "two years ago" photos that I don't recall having posted earlier. Today I've had a difficult time. On November 3 and 4 I walked from Sarsamarcuello to Ena to Santa Cilia and my best photos are from that section. Picking out one has been difficult so I decided to stick with the sad theme I've been in.

On the way to Ena the Catalan uses the GR 95, a forest trail. This plaque, saying in part "You are not forgotten", was placed right on the trail. The flowers, once again, must have been placed for All Souls Day.
IMG_20191103_142015-01.jpeg
I suppose the memorial was erected near the place of death because this picture of a gulch was taken from the same spot. On maps it is named "el barranco de triste", the ravine of sadness.
IMG_20191103_142136-01.jpeg
 
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Sunrise over O Cebreiro - two minutes ago. I cheated.

View attachment 112549
It is early here in Dublin. Well, the brain is just cranking up. What do you mean? Are you literally now on the camino? Or am I corned beef as well? Metaphorically speaking.
For those not from the Kingdom of Scotland, Corned Beef= deif= hard of hearing. Just look at op's avatar above...
 
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Corned Beef

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VDLP (Part) Jan/2022
I cheated.

It's from a webcam. I check this one all the time (it's outside the albergue) as this location is a weather pinch point for those doing the CF late or early.

 

kohara

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Frances 2014
Portugues 2019
Del Norte 2020
Gorgeous chipirones a la plancha at the Cafe Bar Martis in Pontedeume on the Ingles (just up from the main square, Praza Real). The Sardines as well were very substantial and tasty, and at just over €2 each were good value. I had a good chat with the owner, a real gregarious Galician. Funny it is only ranked 24th out of 28 restaurants on Tripadvisor and is not on Google reviews.. ah well the upside is you will get a seat outside in the height of summer. He also opens a bit earlier than some of the more highly ranked restaurants so a bonus for pilgrims who prefer to eat a bit earlier.
pontedeume1g.jpg
 
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Gorgeous chipirones a la plancha at the Cafe Bar Martis in Pontedeume on the Ingles (just up from the main square, Praza Real). The Sardines as well were very substantial and tasty, and at just over €2 each were good value. I had a good chat with the owner, a real gregarious Galician. Funny it is only ranked 24th out of 28 restaurants on Tripadvisor and is not on Google reviews.. ah well the upside is you will get a seat outside in the height of summer. He also opens a bit earlier than some of the more highly ranked restaurants so a bonus for pilgrims who prefer to eat a bit earlier.
View attachment 112556
Re:trip advisor. I learned a few years ago, doing an alternative flat, canal and river route here in Ireland, that traditional establishments are at the mercy of one bad review. They have to be tippy toe alert all the time. Not that that is a problem, the good ones have always worked hard to be compliant. It is just worth considering, that what is top of the pile could be a negative review, but the establishment is A1 for the majority of users.
 
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kohara

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Frances 2014
Portugues 2019
Del Norte 2020
Re:trip advisor. I learned a few years ago, doing an alternative flat, canal and river route here in Ireland, that traditional establishments are at the mercy of one bad review. They have to be tippy toe alert all the time. Not that that is a problem, the good ones have always worked hard to be compliant. It is just worth considering, that what is top of the pile could be a negative review, but the establishment is A1 for the majority of users.

True , it can have a significant impact.
i did mention to the owner that I couldn't find him on Google, he said he didn't really care and that he does ok anyway. All the more reason to support the likes of him who aren't all about Instagrammability.
 

mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
After two weeks of walking I finally arrived.

The old monastery of San Juan de la Peña
View attachment 112557
Indeed. Thanks for sharing your memory.
The site is unforgettable. I have not walked there, but driving up the mountain road was steep!

As an architectural historian it was my professional privilege/ personal pleasure to visit many special places, but San Juan de la Peña belongs in that unique category of sublime timeless perfection.
 
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As an architectural historian it was my professional privilege/ personal pleasure to visit many special places, but San Juan de la Peña belongs in that unique category of sublime timeless perfection.
So many architectural styles in such a small space yet it all worked.

Here is a copy of the guide they hand out (though with the pages in the wrong order).
IMG_20191104_132657.jpg IMG_20191104_132635.jpg
 
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mspath

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View attachment 112561

The spartan sleeping area of the Hospital de Peregrinos San Juan Bautista, Grañón.

CF, Mar 2014

But less is more. This basic space is offered with caritas. For so many of us it is the essence of the camino.
 
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mspath

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San Mamed do Camino
private albergue

photo taken Februrary 25, 2008

east of Sarria, private albergue.jpg

On the LU-P-5602 route east of Sarria
the private albergue Paloma y Leña had recently opened in 2008. Each heated dorm of 4 beds contained a toilet/shower; common areas were spacious and well equipped; communal dinner was delicious. This was a great stop for a cold winter night.
 
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dick bird

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On the Funicular dos Guindais in Porto. July 29, 2015

View attachment 112562
This had me totally flummoxed as we lived in Oporto for 3 years and I had no memory of a funicular railway. Turns out there used to be one over 100 years ago, then they rebuilt it in 2004. I'll check it out next time we are there.
 
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mspath

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Burgos
Plaza de la Libertad
Casa del Cordón

photo taken February 4, 2008

Burgos, Casa del Cordón.jpg

The highlight of a rest day in Burgos.
was meeting a charming French speaking hospitalera shown in this view for a guided visit at a restored 15th c. palace, Casa del Cordón, presently used as a bank/exhibition space.The name Casa del Cordón is due to the heavy ropes/cords carved in stone which surround the building’s main door.

Past visitors to this sumptuous palace
include Christopher Columbus (!!) hosted by the Catholic Monarchs Fernando II and Isabel I on his return from his second voyage to the New World in 1497.
 
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SabineP

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some and then more. see my signature.
old dog.jpg

A friendly dog in Santa Olalla de Bureba on the Vasco Interior 2019.
A sleepy dog in a sleepy village.
Although the small bar was open!

 
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A bit before that sleepy dog; The camino crosses the very busy Autovia; we pilgrims walked through all the small places it's left behind. In the middle distance the village of Quintanavides. How different it must have been when the main road allowed people to stop in these little towns rather than funneling them into sterile rest stops..
20190528_111428.jpg
 

SabineP

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some and then more. see my signature.
A bit before that sleepy dog; The camino crosses the very busy Autovia; we pilgrims walked through all the small places it's left behind. In the middle distance the village of Quintanavides. How different it must have been when the main road allowed people to stop in these little towns rather than funneling them into sterile rest stops..
View attachment 112695


I remember how lucky we were when the bar / centro social opened in Quintanavides the moment we stopped there. And they had a sello!
The centro social that also operated as " ayuntamiento" if I remember correctly.
 
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mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
Zubiri
Calle Puente de la Rabia
photo taken January 26, 2009

snowy Zubiri 26. 01.2009.jpg

Both sides of the calle frame this snow covered view of the medieval bridge taken from a window at the Pension Usoa; the only place open that cold January afternoon.

Walking for safety on the verges of the N135 roadway and not the CF, I had trudged down from Roncesvalles alone amidst the snowy trees like some storybook character. Mid afternoon I arrived exhausted at Zubiri; the Pension Usoa offered warm and cosy accommodation.
 
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SabineP

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some and then more. see my signature.
Naron to Pontedeume.jpg

On the way to Pontedeume.A rather wornout place from the outside. Both times I passed there I saw no movement although the bookingsites tell it is open. Hotel Iberia in Cabanas. And it seems that the interior is tidy and decent which is the most important for me when on a pilgrimage.
Camino Ingles.
I prefer to stay in the simple but lively ( and lovely ! ) Pension / Bar Luis when in Pontedeume.

 
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View attachment 112778

On the way to Pontedeume.A rather wornout place from the outside. Both times I passed there I saw no movement although the bookingsites tell it is open. Hotel Iberia in Cabanas. And it seems that the interior is tidy and decent which is the most important for me when on a pilgrimage.
Camino Ingles.
I prefer to stay in the simple but lively Pension / Bar Luis when in Pontedeume.

I stayed there. The owners are so friendly, working hard. Our meal was delicious. Don't ask me what it was, but any food, honestly - prepared and served, when hungry and on camino - are we not blessed to be in such luxury!
The room we had was perfectly fine, twin, en suite, clean. On the way forward for the next day. Just forget the slow, tortuous, meander uphill, and focus on the reason for the season: either just a walk in the park, or for a deeper reason...
 

SabineP

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some and then more. see my signature.
I stayed there. The owners are so friendly, working hard. Our meal was delicious. Don't ask me what it was, but any food, honestly - prepared and served, when hungry and on camino - are we not blessed to be in such luxury!
The room we had was perfectly fine, twin, en suite, clean. On the way forward for the next day. Just forget the slow, tortuous, meander uphill, and focus on the reason for the season: either just a walk in the park, or for a deeper reason...


Good to hear some first hand " reviews ". We are blessed indeed!
Second time I walked the Ingles I took the shortcut : the walkingpath next to the railway at the Monasterio de San Martiño de Xubia ,shaving off some seven kilomometers.
 
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Past OR future Camino
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On the way forward for the next day. Just forget the slow, tortuous, meander uphill, and focus on the reason for the season: either just a walk in the park, or for a deeper reason...
Step, breathe, step, breathe, take a photo as an excuse to pause, step breathe...
Near the top of the climb between Belesar and San Pedro. It was pretty steep. I took a lot of photos.
20190611_183649.jpg
 
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View attachment 112435

Whenever I am in traffic, I often think of the long stretches of solitude like this one between Estella and Los Arcos.

CF, Oct 2016
Beautiful photo Phoenix. I can see a wonderful painting in this. OK Pilgrims, I set you a challenge - let's see some of the artwork of the Caminos. Maybe you could even paint the landscape above. I am, of course, excusing myself ... we all know that bears don't paint!
 
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I am, of course, excusing myself ... we all know that bears don't paint!
Yeah, but we know (and I hope you know) that you're not a bear. No excuses. ;)

That said, photos are their own form of art, which @Phoenix and a few others here are absurdly skilled in. The rest of us manage as best as we can. That's the fun.
 
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Past OR future Camino
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France 2015 (Le Puy to Roncesvalles)
Portugal 2017 (Porto to Santiago de Compostela)
Yeah, but we know (and I hope you know) that you're not a bear. No excuses. ;)

That said, photos are their own form of art, which @Phoenix and a few others here are absurdly skilled in. The rest of us manage as best as we can. That's the fun.
You look pretty skilled to me VNwalking ... even through bear's eyes!
 
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The Aragonese camino, November 7, 2019. The peak in the distance is Higa and at its base is Monreal (Basque: Elo), an hour's walk away. Rain came down just as I entered town.
IMG_20191107_153216-01.jpeg
It was raining in the morning too so I never went up Higa though there are hiking trails and a road with many switchbacks. If you want to see some of the Navarre landscapes you can view photos from the Mirador de Monreal with Google Maps id: FmjBoJULNezbc1hr9

The direct trail up from the edge of town is shown at Wikiloc.com (hiking-trails id: 19047038)
 
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Conques - one of the prettiest villages (and there are many) on route Saint Jacques de Compostelle, France
 

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A thought-provoking Camino memoir. This day-by-day account will inspire you.
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