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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 9.0

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Sarria --> Portomarín
CF, 23 Oct 2016

During a recent car ride ferrying my granddaughter home from school, we discussed the concept of irony (our car ride discussions seem to naturally focus on some type of teaching/learning for both of us).

I told her of my difficulties walking since my leg was crushed in an accident when I was a teen (resulting in 6 surgeries over the decades), yet one of my greatest desires/callings is to walk to the ends of the earth and back. From climbing one of the seven summits and the mountains of the Rockies to ruck marches in the desert, but especially the paths that lead to Compostela, I am meant to trek this earth, always carrying physical pain with me.

Now that both of my legs have been rebuilt over the past couple of years, I look forward to walking Camino again carrying perhaps only a few ounces of physical pain rather than pounds.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
I think this is my favorite so far.
It touches the soul of the road.


If you walk the Invierno, the Chestnut and the cherry leaves will be golden.

Continuing on the Invierno - following the rio y tren, but often high above both:
View media item 9657
We did a train shuffle by walking out of A Rua then taking the afternoon train back. It's a beautiful little train journey and if ever I can't manage to walk, I'll travel all over Spain by slow train.
 
Camino Frances
Salceda
memorial

photo taken March 20, 2009

Salceda memorial.jpg

At Salceda, 26 km east of Santiago, this poignant memorial replicates/preserves(?) in bronze the shoes/boots(?) of a Swiss pilgrim,
Guillermo Watts, aged 69 who died just one day before arriving at Santiago de Compostela.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Burgos. Never stayed at the donativo albergue of La Divina Pastora but I heard wonderful things about it. Still closed and not certain if it will open again.

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Indeed.
From my diary when I stayed in October 2004 on my first camino.
"Pouring rain and huge trucks roaring along the highway made the 11 km into Burgos exhausting. On arrival at the pilgrims’ information office I felt ready to collapse.

Luckily a new private albergue, La Divina Pastora, was in the next block. Spotless, with 20 bunks, hot showers, free email plus soothing Celtic music, it was perfect!"


...May it open soon again.
 
Indeed.
From my diary when I stayed in October 2004 on my first camino.
"Pouring rain and huge trucks roaring along the highway made the 11 km into Burgos exhausting. On arrival at the pilgrims’ information office I felt ready to collapse.

Luckily a new private albergue, La Divina Pastora, was in the next block. Spotless, with 20 bunks, hot showers, free email plus soothing Celtic music, it was perfect!"

...May it open soon again.


Ah , merci for the information. I was under the impression that is was donativo but now I read more about the origins and the people who take care of the place.
Like you say : true Caritas.
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Camino Frances
Casanova
horreo/granary

photo taken December 5, 2013

horreo, Casanova.jpg

Casanova is a rural hamlet west of Palas de Rei and east of Melide. After Palas del Rei the CF passes through many small hamlets which have granaries such as this in Casanova.
 
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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Prior to walking the Ingles, I walked from Bray to St James Church in Dublin, although in the end this stamp was not needed as we walked from Ferrol. Above it, the stamp from Zabaldika - I re-use credenciales if they are not filled to the brim!
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CF August 12, 2019 Palas de Rei. Gazpachoooooooo!! This was crazy good. I asked for the recipe. She looked at me like I was crazy then said, it’s just fresh vegetables. 😆 oh what I would give for another bowl.
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Haha I got the same reaction when I was served an exquisite piece of slowly cooked pork belly. I asked the owner what marinade he used and how he got it so soft...
He answered me : " Euh it is meat and I slowly cook it ".
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Una jaula
Con barrotes de oro
Sigue siendo una jaula.

Un pajaro sin alas
Sigue siendo un pájaro.

Aunque el cielo este cubierto
El Sol sigue brillando

Kaleb Fehin Cian

(A cage
With bars of gold
Is still a cage.

A bird without wings
Is still a bird.

Although the sky is covered
The Sun is still shining)

We bought this from a young man who was selling poems on the streets of A Coruña. I have no idea if he wrote it or not, but I prefer to think he did
.
The photo is of the spectacular galerías overlooking the harbour of A Coruña
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clams.jpg
If you are on the Portugues and are a fan of seafood, make a detour for O Bioco in Pontevedra just opposite the main theatre in the old town.
Juan and Monica will give you a great welcome, been back a good few times. He is a character, an ex fisherman and boy does he know how to cook seafood. Best clams i have ever tasted, cooked in peppers, garlic and onion etc. This is a bit of a plug but i think its great to support the smaller guy who really endorses local produce. Btw if he brings out the local Orujo firewater, take it handy!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
View attachment 121325
If you are on the Portugues and are a fan of seafood, make a detour for O Bioco in Pontevedra just opposite the main theatre in the old town.
Juan and Monica will give you a great welcome, been back a good few times. He is a character, an ex fisherman and boy does he know how to cook seafood. Best clams i have ever tasted, cooked in peppers, garlic and onion etc. This is a bit of a plug but i think its great to support the smaller guy who really endorses local produce. Btw if he brings out the local Orujo firewater, take it handy!
Well seen you are from here. Take it handy!! Thanks for recommendation. Who knows, could happen, a repeat Portuguese before the end of time!!!
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
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Welcome to Galicia! Camino Francés, July 2017
Clearly this welcome stone has been cleaned and refreshed since we passed it in May 2013. Also taken at a very different time of year. However, it never ceases to amaze me that people on pilgrimage would want to graffiti all the mileage markers and signs like this. Who carries spray paint with them?
 

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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
View media item 9659The (now) hamlet of Montefurado on the Invierno, whose large church is out of all proportion to its present size. Wikipeda tells me 45 people live here.
I think this is also Montefurado, a sad and probably once bustling place. 2nd Oct 2018. the church was locked, as one would expect.
DSC04621.JPG
 
Ingles, 2019. Perhaps day 2. There was another face on the tarmac, and I can't recall now if they were linked to the ascent, or the indications for the right way to go! I have my daypack on, my proper backpack was sent on each day with stuff from both, so we each had lighter bags to carry every day.
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We are the pilgrims, master; we shall go,
Always a little further; it may be,
Beyond that last blue mountain, barred with snow,
Across that angry or that glimmering sea.

James Elroy Flecker

James Elroy Flecker died in 1915 at the age of 30 of tuberculosis. He wrote prolifically in his short life time, poems influenced by a view of the east as exotic and his reading of the ‘Parnassian’ French poets and the ‘Aesthetic’ English poets. Form, evocative imagery, and disciplined language are important. Social messages and the internal, emotional life of the poet not so much.
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
CF July 30, 2019 Leon. View from the Leon Hostel where I stayed many nights with a leg injury. Perfect location with a market directly across the street, the Cathedral just around the corner and great street music heard from the balcony. Ava Maria sung and played beautifully. I was grateful. ☺️ I hope the video is okay to post here.
View attachment IMG_4013.MOV
 
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View from my hotelroom,exactly five years ago. End of my short Camino. Plaza Mayor Astorga. I arrived much earlier than check in time but the receptionist was so kind to offer me a room so I was able to rest my knee.
I too arrived in Astorga with a deteriorating knee, CF June 2016. After a somewhat rainy 10 miles, I had decided that a hotel was called for. The receptionist at the Astur Plaza, was also kind enough to let me check in early. The room was lovely, sadly the breakfast coffee was awful. If I stayed again, I think I would miss breakfast.

IMG_20160615_112320326_HDR.jpg
 
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Someone living along the Invierno has a cute creative streak:
View attachment 121474
But then there were those eyes, and they totally creeped me out:
View attachment 121475
Apparently, these are the work of an American artist (whose name I can't recall) who spends about half the year in the village at the top of the hill, Alvaredos, which is halfway between A Rua and Montefurado. This is definitely my favourite. But I wouldn't want to walk past those eyes in the dark.
DSC04615.JPG
 
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Invictus

Out of the night that covers me,
Black as the Pit from pole to pole,
I thank whatever gods may be
For my unconquerable soul.

In the fell clutch of circumstance
I have not winced nor cried aloud.
Under the bludgeonings of chance
My head is bloody, but unbowed.

Beyond this place of wrath and tears
Looms but the Horror of the shade,
And yet the menace of the years
Finds, and shall find, me unafraid.

It matters not how strait the gate,
How charged with punishments the scroll,
I am the master of my fate:
I am the captain of my soul.

William Ernest Henley

Sometimes I think a certain degree of bloody-mindedness is required to be a pilgrim. I love the defiance of this poem, the antidote to all the new-age pop poster philosophising; the ‘I am who I am’ shout in the face of every kind of crap that life throws at you. “Sod it, I’m going”.

Another bit of Invierno creative whimsy - somewhere after Monforte de Lemos, 7 Oct 2018.
DSC04667.JPG
 
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Someone living along the Invierno has a cute creative streak:
Apparently, these are the work of an American artist (whose name I can't recall) who spends about half the year in the village at the top of the hill, Alvaredos,
My favourites in Alvaredos. For me, I think it was as much about the placement of the pieces as it was about the art itself! June 13, 2019

IMG_3320 (1).jpeg vilavieja.jpeg
 
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Pub Agarimo in Santiago de Compostela. Exactly five years ago. They always serve a free pintxo with every drink.This one might look less refined than what they normally serve but it it tasted good!
A favourite place! For breakfast too!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Camino Frances
Foncebadon
albergue Monte Irago
interior

photo taken November 25, 2013

cafe, Foncebadon.jpg

As I re-entered this shop/cafe/albergue
the welcoming owner exclaimed "you were here during that big snow!" Indeed; I had spent 3 days in March 2009 there during a blizzard.

As we shared snowy memories this visit was just as pleasant as my previous ones and the snow-free CF path much safer/easier to navigate.
 
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The Passionate Man’s Pilgrimage

Give me my scallop shell of quiet,
My staff of faith to walk upon,
My scrip of joy, immortal diet,
My bottle of salvation,
My gown of glory, hope’s true gage,
And thus I’ll take my pilgrimage.

Blood must be my body’s balmer,
No other balm will there be given,
Whilst my soul, like a white palmer,
Travels to the land of heaven;
Over the silver mountains,
Where spring the nectar fountains;
And there I’ll kiss
The bowl of bliss,
And drink my eternal fill
On every milken hill.
My soul will be a-dry before,
But after it will ne’er thirst more;
And by the happy blissful way
More peaceful pilgrims I shall see,
That have shook off their gowns of clay,
And go apparelled fresh like me.
I’ll bring them first
To slake their thirst,
And then to taste those nectar suckets,
At the clear wells
Where sweetness dwells,
Drawn up by saints in crystal buckets.

And when our bottles and all we
Are fill’d with immortality,
Then the holy paths we’ll travel,
Strew’d with rubies thick as gravel,
Ceilings of diamonds, sapphire floors,
High walls of coral, and pearl bowers.

From thence to heaven’s bribeless hall
Where no corrupted voices brawl,
No conscience molten into gold,
Nor forg’d accusers bought and sold,
No cause deferr’d, nor vain-spent journey,
For there Christ is the king’s attorney,
Who pleads for all without degrees,
And he hath angels, but no fees.
When the grand twelve million jury
Of our sins and sinful fury,
‘Gainst our souls black verdicts give,
Christ pleads his death, and then we live.
Be thou my speaker, taintless pleader,
Unblotted lawyer, true proceeder,
Thou movest salvation even for alms,
Not with a bribed lawyer’s palms.
And this is my eternal plea
To him that made heaven, earth, and sea,
Seeing my flesh must die so soon,
And want a head to dine next noon,
Just at the stroke when my veins start and spread,
Set on my soul an everlasting head.
Then am I ready, like a palmer fit,
To tread those blest paths which before I writ.

Sir Walter Raleigh

The first verse of this poem suggests that the icons of the pilgrimage to Santiago were well-known even in 17th century, Protestant England.

Gallant, courtly and multi-talented, Sir Walter Raleigh was the archetypal Elizabethan swashbuckler. He was also highly ambitious and shamelessly schmoozed the Queen, who was furious to discover he had married without letting her know. He inveigled himself back into her favour but her successor, James the First of England, the Sixth of Scotland, did not trust him and clapped him in gaol. His persuasive powers were clearly formidable, however, as he convinced the King to allow him to lead an expedition to the Americas to discover El Dorado, the fabled city of gold, which Sir Walter probably knew perfectly well did not exist. With explicit instructions not to do anything to annoy the Spanish, he did exactly that by attacking and trying to plunder one of their settlements. On his return to England, he was arrested, tried and sentenced to death by beheading. This poem is assumed to have been written by him as he awaited execution. If so, displays outstanding courage and equanimity in the face of death.
DSC05017.JPG
 
The Passionate Man’s Pilgrimage

Give me my scallop shell of quiet,
My staff of faith to walk upon,
My scrip of joy, immortal diet,
My bottle of salvation,
My gown of glory, hope’s true gage,
And thus I’ll take my pilgrimage.

Blood must be my body’s balmer,
No other balm will there be given,
Whilst my soul, like a white palmer,
Travels to the land of heaven;
Over the silver mountains,
Where spring the nectar fountains;
And there I’ll kiss
The bowl of bliss,
And drink my eternal fill
On every milken hill.
My soul will be a-dry before,
But after it will ne’er thirst more;
And by the happy blissful way
More peaceful pilgrims I shall see,
That have shook off their gowns of clay,
And go apparelled fresh like me.
I’ll bring them first
To slake their thirst,
And then to taste those nectar suckets,
At the clear wells
Where sweetness dwells,
Drawn up by saints in crystal buckets.

And when our bottles and all we
Are fill’d with immortality,
Then the holy paths we’ll travel,
Strew’d with rubies thick as gravel,
Ceilings of diamonds, sapphire floors,
High walls of coral, and pearl bowers.

From thence to heaven’s bribeless hall
Where no corrupted voices brawl,
No conscience molten into gold,
Nor forg’d accusers bought and sold,
No cause deferr’d, nor vain-spent journey,
For there Christ is the king’s attorney,
Who pleads for all without degrees,
And he hath angels, but no fees.
When the grand twelve million jury
Of our sins and sinful fury,
‘Gainst our souls black verdicts give,
Christ pleads his death, and then we live.
Be thou my speaker, taintless pleader,
Unblotted lawyer, true proceeder,
Thou movest salvation even for alms,
Not with a bribed lawyer’s palms.
And this is my eternal plea
To him that made heaven, earth, and sea,
Seeing my flesh must die so soon,
And want a head to dine next noon,
Just at the stroke when my veins start and spread,
Set on my soul an everlasting head.
Then am I ready, like a palmer fit,
To tread those blest paths which before I writ.

Sir Walter Raleigh

The first verse of this poem suggests that the icons of the pilgrimage to Santiago were well-known even in 17th century, Protestant England.

Gallant, courtly and multi-talented, Sir Walter Raleigh was the archetypal Elizabethan swashbuckler. He was also highly ambitious and shamelessly schmoozed the Queen, who was furious to discover he had married without letting her know. He inveigled himself back into her favour but her successor, James the First of England, the Sixth of Scotland, did not trust him and clapped him in gaol. His persuasive powers were clearly formidable, however, as he convinced the King to allow him to lead an expedition to the Americas to discover El Dorado, the fabled city of gold, which Sir Walter probably knew perfectly well did not exist. With explicit instructions not to do anything to annoy the Spanish, he did exactly that by attacking and trying to plunder one of their settlements. On his return to England, he was arrested, tried and sentenced to death by beheading. This poem is assumed to have been written by him as he awaited execution. If so, displays outstanding courage and equanimity in the face of death.
View attachment 121567
James got it right...😂 just joking. Honestly.;)
Thanks for all your poetry contributions.
 
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The Passionate Man’s Pilgrimage

Give me my scallop shell of quiet,
My staff of faith to walk upon,
My scrip of joy, immortal diet,
My bottle of salvation,
My gown of glory, hope’s true gage,
And thus I’ll take my pilgrimage.

Blood must be my body’s balmer,
No other balm will there be given,
Whilst my soul, like a white palmer,
Travels to the land of heaven;
Over the silver mountains,
Where spring the nectar fountains;
And there I’ll kiss
The bowl of bliss,
And drink my eternal fill
On every milken hill.
My soul will be a-dry before,
But after it will ne’er thirst more;
And by the happy blissful way
More peaceful pilgrims I shall see,
That have shook off their gowns of clay,
And go apparelled fresh like me.
I’ll bring them first
To slake their thirst,
And then to taste those nectar suckets,
At the clear wells
Where sweetness dwells,
Drawn up by saints in crystal buckets.

And when our bottles and all we
Are fill’d with immortality,
Then the holy paths we’ll travel,
Strew’d with rubies thick as gravel,
Ceilings of diamonds, sapphire floors,
High walls of coral, and pearl bowers.

From thence to heaven’s bribeless hall
Where no corrupted voices brawl,
No conscience molten into gold,
Nor forg’d accusers bought and sold,
No cause deferr’d, nor vain-spent journey,
For there Christ is the king’s attorney,
Who pleads for all without degrees,
And he hath angels, but no fees.
When the grand twelve million jury
Of our sins and sinful fury,
‘Gainst our souls black verdicts give,
Christ pleads his death, and then we live.
Be thou my speaker, taintless pleader,
Unblotted lawyer, true proceeder,
Thou movest salvation even for alms,
Not with a bribed lawyer’s palms.
And this is my eternal plea
To him that made heaven, earth, and sea,
Seeing my flesh must die so soon,
And want a head to dine next noon,
Just at the stroke when my veins start and spread,
Set on my soul an everlasting head.
Then am I ready, like a palmer fit,
To tread those blest paths which before I writ.

Sir Walter Raleigh

The first verse of this poem suggests that the icons of the pilgrimage to Santiago were well-known even in 17th century, Protestant England.

Gallant, courtly and multi-talented, Sir Walter Raleigh was the archetypal Elizabethan swashbuckler. He was also highly ambitious and shamelessly schmoozed the Queen, who was furious to discover he had married without letting her know. He inveigled himself back into her favour but her successor, James the First of England, the Sixth of Scotland, did not trust him and clapped him in gaol. His persuasive powers were clearly formidable, however, as he convinced the King to allow him to lead an expedition to the Americas to discover El Dorado, the fabled city of gold, which Sir Walter probably knew perfectly well did not exist. With explicit instructions not to do anything to annoy the Spanish, he did exactly that by attacking and trying to plunder one of their settlements. On his return to England, he was arrested, tried and sentenced to death by beheading. This poem is assumed to have been written by him as he awaited execution. If so, displays outstanding courage and equanimity in the face of death.
View attachment 121567
dick bird,
This is another splendid photo. Where was it taken?
Further to the history of Sir Walter Raleigh the capital city of the US state of North Carolina was founded in 1792 and named for Sir Walter Raleigh, who attempted to establish the first English colony, the Roanoke colony, on the shores of the new world in the 1580s.
 
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Walking out from Ponferrada, a bit too much road, a bit too much sun. A quiet peaceful walk, ignoring the traffic, no peregrinos around, glad to be back on the Camino. A short stop at a local bar, for some quiet contemplation. A cold beer and some Olives help the mood, I was enjoying myself. CF May 2019.

IMG_20190524_135647633.jpg
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Day 1 on the Ingles, a misty and damp summer's day. However I quite enjoyed the faded grandeur of the architecture and naval history of this city. The plazas are so different than one finds in the likes of the towns of the meseta or further south, with all evergreen trees etc.

ferrol.jpg
 
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SJPdP April 15, 2016 My second Camino, I had an afternoon to explore more of SJPdP. @Phoenix this is the opposite view of your classic, which I have a photo of too. (Actually upon further investigation, my “classic” bridge is different. I’ll post it tomorrow.) 😉 I beleive the bridge in this photo is the one Martin Sheen walked across when he started his journey and was bid a Buen Camino from Captain Henri in the movie “The Way”. 😊
DD4F518A-C996-4725-9B3E-D606DC9B60CC.jpeg
 
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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
We are the walking breath
We are the spirit of the earth
We are alive and walking
Where we are is beautiful.
I am an acorn, the shell, the seed
God is within me, and God is the tree
I am unfolding the way
I should be Sown in the soil of God’s hand
Sown in the soil of God’s land
If the past and the future are real, Where are they?

Attributed to St Augustin

Quoted by Nancy Louise Frey in ‘Pilgrim Stories’ and supposedly on the wall of the Albergue in Roncesvalles. She also quotes this poem by ‘an English pilgrim called George’.

At a small chapel, on a crest Where two pilgrim roads meet,
And where thousands once came— Utter silence.
But rest, and cool water,
Bread, and cheese, and fruit in season,
Simple sacramental things,
Which link us to our forebears,
And to others for whom we too,
One day, will be among those
Who have gone before.

Lunch in A Coruña at the end of our most recent camino in October 2019. We are about to start our next at the opposite end of the peninsula in Alicante.
Lunch in A Coruña.jpg
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
dick bird,
This is another splendid photo. Where was it taken?
Further to the history of Sir Walter Raleigh the capital city of the US state of North Carolina was founded in 1792 and named for Sir Walter Raleigh, who attempted to establish the first English colony, the Roanoke colony, on the shores of the new world in the 1580s.
It is on the façade of Santiago Cathedral. You must all have seen it many times. I believe the colony of Roanoke came to a sudden mysterious end?
 
It is on the façade of Santiago Cathedral. You must all have seen it many times. I believe the colony of Roanoke came to a sudden mysterious end?
Thank you for the update. You are correct the colony of Roanoke "disappeared" however archeologists are presently searching.
 
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€46,-
Join our full-service guided tour of the Basque Country and let us pamper you!
Keep Right on to the End of the Road

Every road through life is a long, long road,
Filled with joys and sorrows too,
As you journey on how your heart will yearn
For the things most dear to you.
With wealth and love 'tis so,
But onward we must go.
Chorus:
Keep right on to the end of the road,
Keep right on to the end,
If the way be long, let your heart be strong,
Keep right on round the bend.
If you're tired and weary still journey on,
Till you come to your happy abode,
Where all you love that you're dreaming of
Will be there at the end of the road.



With a big stout heart to a long steep hill,
We may get there with a smile,
With a good kind thought and an end in view,
We may cut short many a mile.
So let courage every day
Be your guiding star always.

Sir Harry Lauder Harry Lauder was a famous Scottish music hall entertainer. This is a song written after his son was killed in battle during World War 1 at Pozières’, so it would have sad resonances for the audiences who heard it. This song is now the anthem of Birmingham City Football Club. There are various versions of it on youtube.

VdlP 15 May 2012DSCN1529.JPG
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
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