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LIVE from the Camino On the Camino Sanabres now

El Cascayal

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Hi for anyone who may be interested some information on the Sanabres from Ourense.
The weather is intensely hot. This is my first time walking in this heat. The Xunta albergues are planning to open mid June, perhaps sometime this week on a case by case basis. The new Albergue at Oseira is scheduled to open within the next 7 days. Anyone appreciate how precise all of this is?🤣
Most places open in Ourense the Cathedral un Ourense gives Peregrinos a special 1 whole Euro discount. Bars & restaurants, places to stay open.
Cea only one game in town the Casa Rural Casa Mañoso, lovely place, nice owners and pricey. One place to eat in town at the entrance of the Camino, Bahia grill or something like that, everything else closed except 2 bars that serve snacks. Great breakfast place as you leave in the morning on the Camino run by Galician Venezuelans.
I stayed with the monks in Oseira for 2 nights. Amazing overall experience, they are modern and kind and the hospedería is a dream. No Wifi there, you must stay 2-7 nights. Only one bar open in town right at the entrance to the monastery and closed on Mondays.
I am currently in Estación Lalín at Taberna do Vento wonderful young couple run it, comfortable clean rooms. EXCELLENT food, very fair prices. The number on Gronze & Buen Camino app is his WhatsApp contact so you can book directly with him.
Now the bad news: the Camino here so far, is not well maintained, the weeds and grass up to my hips and sometimes my armpits. The worst part is the thorns everywhere. Several times while going uphill or downhill over rocks, I had to duck under the canopy-like entwined thorns above my head. I am all scratched up. You cannot wear shorts. Many many entrepid flies. Yellow arrows not all there, wound up doing extra kms today & on N-525 not by choice but by necessity. Other than that, folks are happy to see Peregrinas once again and as always locals are very welcoming.
If people are interested I will continue to update, WiFi availability permitting.
Aymarah
 
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Guy Strachan

Alba Guido
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances ('13/'14), Portugues ('15), Finisterre ('16/'19); Ingles ('17); Sanabres ('18); Invierno '20
The Sanabres is a lovely walk - I did it in early May 2018 starting from Ourense.
It was probably a bit cooler than right now but not by much!
Your post brought back very happy memories.
We also had a good stay at Casa Manoso in Cea (the town's famous bread was a bit disappointing though!) Also the approach and descent into Ponte Ulla is memorable with great views.
Ultreia y Suseia!
 

Elle Bieling

Elle Bieling, PilgrimageTraveler
Year of past OR future Camino
2014
October was the perfect weather for us on the Sanabrés. We just walked in 2019 and there were no issues that I recall with overgrown trails, nor waymarking issues. Here is my GPS tracks if it would help you: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1nvo8UM0cHsnSYMUJh1xdOZC6GpCBhbON&usp=sharing. You can download the tracks by clicking on the three dots in the red bar, and then click on "download kml." If you want to follow my journey, you can click here, scroll to the bottom and chose the days you wish to see. Buen Camino! It will be fun to hear of your journey and relive it!
 

SioCamino

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF 2015, CPo 2016, VDLP[Sev-Các] 2017, VDLP[Các-Sal] 2018
I walked the Sanabres in May and the section from Ourense in Sept.... I remember that the stage leaving Lubian (i think) was very overgrown on the way up the mountain - i struggled to find my way and needed my app to reassure me that i was on the right path. The issue there is that for winter and early spring that path is too wet and a road alternative is used instead. Then you get a few weeks of warm weather in April /May with little footfall and suddenly you can't see the path!
I didn't experience anything like that on the section from Ourense in either season... So perhaps it is just the lack of footfall that is obscuring the route just now.
 
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nycwalking

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Ourense to Santiago (2019), CF: (2014, 2004, 2002, 2001). On to Fisterra, (2002, 4, 14).
Hi for anyone who may be interested some information on the Sanabres from Ourense.
The weather is intensely hot. This is my first time walking in this heat. The Xunta albergues are planning to open mid June, perhaps sometime this week on a case by case basis. The new Albergue at Oseira is scheduled to open within the next 7 days. Anyone appreciate how precise all of this is?🤣
Most places open in Ourense the Cathedral un Ourense gives Peregrinos a special 1 whole Euro discount. Bars & restaurants, places to stay open.
Cea only one game in town the Casa Rural Casa Mañoso, lovely place, nice owners and pricey. One place to eat in town at the entrance of the Camino, Bahia grill or something like that, everything else closed except 2 bars that serve snacks. Great breakfast place as you leave in the morning on the Camino run by Galician Venezuelans.
I stayed with the monks in Oseira for 2 nights. Amazing overall experience, they are modern and kind and the hospedería is a dream. No Wifi there, you must stay 2-7 nights. Only one bar open in town right at the entrance to the monastery and closed on Mondays.
I am currently in Estación Lalín at Taberna do Vento wonderful young couple run it, comfortable clean rooms. EXCELLENT food, very fair prices. The number on Gronze & Buen Camino app is his WhatsApp contact so you can book directly with him.
Now the bad news: the Camino here so far, is not well maintained, the weeds and grass up to my hips and sometimes my armpits. The worst part is the thorns everywhere. Several times while going uphill or downhill over rocks, I had to duck under the canopy-like entwined thorns above my head. I am all scratched up. You cannot wear shorts. Many many entrepid flies. Yellow arrows not all there, wound up doing extra kms today & on N-525 not by choice but by necessity. Other than that, folks are happy to see Peregrinas once again and as always locals are very welcoming.
If people are interested I will continue to update, WiFi availability permitting.
Aymarah

November 2019, I walked Sanabres.

I remember toiling up the never ending hill out of Ourense.

Do keep posting.

Buen camino.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
So glad to hear you are walking and had a good stay in Oseira. I’m sure you know this, but there are many of us who would gladly take on the brambles in your place. 😂 It will probably take a few months for walkers to push them back into submission. It has been a while!

The weather is intensely hot.

I remember hearing that Ourense is one of the hottest places in Spain. It had to do with a micro-climate phenomenon, or something like that. So, hopefully, things will cool down for you a bit.

I love the Sanabrés, so thanks for the updates! Buen camino, Laurie
 

Raggy

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
I remember hearing that Ourense is one of the hottest places in Spain. It had to do with a micro-climate phenomenon, or something like that. So, hopefully, things will cool down for you a bit.
Foehn phenomenon? The city sits in a valley.
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
Hi @El Cascayal
Thankyou for this info .. I love the detail.

Anyone appreciate how precise all of this is?🤣
Yes - I think many of us appreciate it.
Now the bad news: the Camino here so far, is not well maintained, the weeds and grass up to my hips and sometimes my armpits. The worst part is the thorns everywhere. Several times while going uphill or downhill over rocks, I had to duck under the canopy-like entwined thorns above my head. I am all scratched up.
Sadly for you - it is harder due to the lack of trampers during restrictions. Thanks to you and all the other trailblazers, pathfinders, and those first off the mark ! for clearing the trails for those to follow. Much appreciated.
You can download the tracks by clicking on the three dots in the red bar, and then click on "download kml."
Elle - thankyou but I didn’t have any success trying to download your tracks (kml files). I wanted to put them on my maps.me but first had to log into google to get to the 3 dots and then I didn’t get an option to send to maps.me
I won’t need them for a while though. It’s probably just ‘my’ phone.
I’m sure you know this, but there are many of us who would gladly take on the brambles in your place. 😂 It will probably take a few months for walkers to push them back into submission. It has been a while!
Yes…. I wish it were me there pushing through the brambles.

Ps to @El Cascayal I can see on your profile pic that your forum name matches a pueblo of same name - but what does it mean?

buen camino
Annie
 
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Raggy

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Next camino service on our list: instead of picking up rubbish, it's going out there with clippers and leather gloves
Since you mentioned clearing up rubbish ... There was an Italian-British couple (Kate and Lorenzo) on the Sanabres recently, picking litter along the way (having done so all the way from Seville). A pilgrim that I'm following met them near Granja de Moreruela on 28/May. I guess they may have reached Santiago.
 

Raggy

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Cea only one game in town the Casa Rural Casa Mañoso, lovely place, nice owners and pricey.
Just heard from a pilgrim that I am following that he was able to stay at a 30-bed albergue in Cea.
So I guess the Xunta albergue must have re-opened. In Lalin he went to the Lalin Centro albergue.
He is concerned that someone told him that all albergues from Lalin to Santiago are closed. That sounds unlikely to me - I would imagine that the private albergues in places like Dornelas and A Susana (Reina Lupa) would be open. Can anyone confirm?
 

El Cascayal

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
So glad to hear you are walking and had a good stay in Oseira. I’m sure you know this, but there are many of us who would gladly take on the brambles in your place. 😂 It will probably take a few months for walkers to push them back into submission. It has been a while!

I remember hearing that Ourense is one of the hottest places in Spain. It had to do with a micro-climate phenomenon, or something like that. So, hopefully, things will cool down for you a bit.

I love the Sanabrés, so thanks for the updates! Buen camino, Laurie

Laurie YES! Absolutely right, I accept the brambles for the pure joy of being able to be here now.
 
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El Cascayal

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Hi @El Cascayal
Thankyou for this info .. I love the detail.

Yes - I think many of us appreciate it.

Sadly for you - it is harder due to the lack of trampers during restrictions. Thanks to you and all the other trailblazers, pathfinders, and those first off the mark ! for clearing the trails for those to follow. Much appreciated.

Elle - thankyou but I didn’t have any success trying to download your tracks (kml files). I wanted to put them on my maps.me but first had to log into google to get to the 3 dots and then I didn’t get an option to send to maps.me
I won’t need them for a while though. It’s probably just ‘my’ phone.

Yes…. I wish it were me there pushing through the brambles.

Ps to @El Cascayal I can see on your profile pic that your forum name matches a pueblo of same name - but what does it mean?

buen camino
Annie
OzAnnie, my maternal grandfather is from the hamlet of El Cascayal, just outside Grado when you begin the 2nd stage of the Primitivo. Just had to choose this name. My mother, 96 years old, thinks it is just a name without a specific meaning.
 

El Cascayal

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Just heard from a pilgrim that I am following that he was able to stay at a 30-bed albergue in Cea.
So I guess the Xunta albergue must have re-opened. In Lalin he went to the Lalin Centro albergue.
He is concerned that someone told him that all albergues from Lalin to Santiago are closed. That sounds unlikely to me - I would imagine that the private albergues in places like Dornelas and A Susana (Reina Lupa) would be open. Can anyone confirm?
Raggy,
The albergues are beginning to open again. Hit & miss & need to call ahead. In Cea, municipal Albergue was closed this week. In Bandeiras, open. Dornelas, private, closed this morning as was publico in Outeiro. Reina Lupa is OPEN and I just arrived to the wonderful hospitality of Carmiña and her family.
 

El Cascayal

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Hi to all. Very pleasant news. Once past Castro Dozón & Estación de Lalín the Camino is wide and well kept. A true delight. Green forrests and ancient stone caminos. Bars open in the usual places. Folks truly happy to see Peregrin@s and wanting to share pandemic stories. So immensely grateful to be here. Last 2 days walking with 4 women from Sevilla. 💃💃 much heartfelt conversation and singing & dancing on the trails. A family from Madrid, and a happy stream of grateful Peregrin@s. Everyone most respectful of others.
 

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Elle Bieling

Elle Bieling, PilgrimageTraveler
Year of past OR future Camino
2014
Raggy,
The albergues are beginning to open again. Hit & miss & need to call ahead. In Cea, municipal Albergue was closed this week. In Bandeiras, open. Dornelas, private, closed this morning as was publico in Outeiro. Reina Lupa is OPEN and I just arrived to the wonderful hospitality of Carmiña and her family.
Isn't Carmiña wonderful? She yakked my ear off! Told me all about the legend of Reina Lupa. She is very, very proud of her heritage, and the albergue/room renovations were lovely! We stayed in a room, and a large group of Russians filled up the albergue. The restaurant had large portions of delicious food too!
 

El Cascayal

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Isn't Carmiña wonderful? She yakked my ear off! Told me all about the legend of Reina Lupa. She is very, very proud of her heritage, and the albergue/room renovations were lovely! We stayed in a room, and a large group of Russians filled up the albergue. The restaurant had large portions of delicious food too!
I love coming here. Carmiña is so attentive, kind and hospitable to each person. I will try to post a picture and hope it comes through.
 

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John Brierley Camino Frances Guide
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Rent a house in Santiago (1 month minimum)
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SioCamino

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF 2015, CPo 2016, VDLP[Sev-Các] 2017, VDLP[Các-Sal] 2018
Carmiña is an absolute dote as we would say here in Ireland (very high fond praise!).... Give her my best regards though I'm sure she can't remember every pilgrim... I stayed at Reina Lupa in Sept 19 and had the place to myself.... Carmiña was so kind to me, she really went out of her way, taking me on a walk around the neighbourhood, got lots of fruit from the her neighbours!
Muchos abrazos a ella de Siobhán
 

alexwalker

Forever Pilgrim
Year of past OR future Camino
(2009): Camino Frances
(2011): Sevilla-Salamanca, VdlP
(2012): Salamanca-SdC, VdlP
(2014): SJpdP-Astorga
(2015): Astorga-SdC
(2016) May Pamplona-Moratinos; Sept.:Burgos-SdC
(2016): August/Sept: Camino San Olav (Burgos-Covarubbias), Burgos-Sarria
(2017): May: Portuguese; Sept: Pamplona-SdC
Raggy,
The albergues are beginning to open again. Hit & miss & need to call ahead. In Cea, municipal Albergue was closed this week. In Bandeiras, open. Dornelas, private, closed this morning as was publico in Outeiro. Reina Lupa is OPEN and I just arrived to the wonderful hospitality of Carmiña and her family.
Good to hear, about openings. I will be on the CF in August/September, if all goes well. The Sanabres is a really easy and peaceful walk. I walked it in 2012.

I wish you a Buen Camino & good weather. Thank you for your reports.
 

Raggy

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Raggy,
The albergues are beginning to open again. Hit & miss & need to call ahead. In Cea, municipal Albergue was closed this week. In Bandeiras, open. Dornelas, private, closed this morning as was publico in Outeiro. Reina Lupa is OPEN and I just arrived to the wonderful hospitality of Carmiña and her family.
Thanks for the update. And here's the news from my friend who is following you -

Cea municipal is now open - he stayed there two days ago.
Lalin Centro (private) also open - great welcome from the owner
He now has reservations at Silleda (private), Dornelas (private), and Outeiro (Reina Lupa - private).

He has a prosthetic leg, so his preferred daily distance is 15km. He has slept in a bivvy bag under stars one night in three or four since his departure from Zamora Salamanca. With COVID closures, this has been a challenging camino but he is in great spirits and he should reach Santiago on Sunday.
 
Last edited:
Year of past OR future Camino
2019
He has a prosthetic leg, so his preferred daily distance is 15km. He has slept in a bivvy bag under stars one night in three or four since his departure from Zamora. With COVID closures, this has been a challenging camino but he is in great spirits and he should reach Santiago on Sunday.
Wow. I am never going to compain about sore feet again.

Great to know these private albergues are open. I have a soft spot for the one in Dornelas and am happy it is still open!
 

Kanga

Moderator
Staff member
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés x 5, Le Puy x 2, Arles, Tours, Norte, Madrid, Via de la Plata, Portuguese, Primitivo
Interesting the path has got so overgrown. Looking at my photos I'm trying to pinpoint where that could happen. I'd assume maybe between Sanabria and A Gudiña?
 
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El Cascayal

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Interesting the path has got so overgrown. Looking at my photos I'm trying to pinpoint where that could happen. I'd assume maybe between Sanabria and A Gudiña?
I started in Ourense. From Ourense until Cea vía Tamallancos, on the trails, and from Oseira to Castro Dozón. Pretty bad.
From Estación Lalín on to Santiago a living dream!
 

Sandi Smith

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2022
Hi for anyone who may be interested some information on the Sanabres from Ourense.
The weather is intensely hot. This is my first time walking in this heat. The Xunta albergues are planning to open mid June, perhaps sometime this week on a case by case basis. The new Albergue at Oseira is scheduled to open within the next 7 days. Anyone appreciate how precise all of this is?🤣
Most places open in Ourense the Cathedral un Ourense gives Peregrinos a special 1 whole Euro discount. Bars & restaurants, places to stay open.
Cea only one game in town the Casa Rural Casa Mañoso, lovely place, nice owners and pricey. One place to eat in town at the entrance of the Camino, Bahia grill or something like that, everything else closed except 2 bars that serve snacks. Great breakfast place as you leave in the morning on the Camino run by Galician Venezuelans.
I stayed with the monks in Oseira for 2 nights. Amazing overall experience, they are modern and kind and the hospedería is a dream. No Wifi there, you must stay 2-7 nights. Only one bar open in town right at the entrance to the monastery and closed on Mondays.
I am currently in Estación Lalín at Taberna do Vento wonderful young couple run it, comfortable clean rooms. EXCELLENT food, very fair prices. The number on Gronze & Buen Camino app is his WhatsApp contact so you can book directly with him.
Now the bad news: the Camino here so far, is not well maintained, the weeds and grass up to my hips and sometimes my armpits. The worst part is the thorns everywhere. Several times while going uphill or downhill over rocks, I had to duck under the canopy-like entwined thorns above my head. I am all scratched up. You cannot wear shorts. Many many entrepid flies. Yellow arrows not all there, wound up doing extra kms today & on N-525 not by choice but by necessity. Other than that, folks are happy to see Peregrinas once again and as always locals are very welcoming.
If people are interested I will continue to update, WiFi availability permitting.
Aymarah
This was my second choice for a third Camino. Now I’m thinking it’s a bad idea. Was planning on October so the overgrowth will be even higher! Thank you for posting this.
 

marilyn van graan

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances (2012) VDLP (2014) Portuguese (2015)
Hi to all. Very pleasant news. Once past Castro Dozón & Estación de Lalín the Camino is wide and well kept. A true delight. Green forrests and ancient stone caminos. Bars open in the usual places. Folks truly happy to see Peregrin@s and wanting to share pandemic stories. So immensely grateful to be here. Last 2 days walking with 4 women from Sevilla. 💃💃 much heartfelt conversation and singing & dancing on the trails. A family from Madrid, and a happy stream of grateful Peregrin@s. Everyone most respectful of others.
I am so envious - been camino and continue having funXXXX
 
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El Cascayal

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
I am so envious - been camino and continue having funXXXX
Marilyn,
It has been an amazing experience. All the Peregrin@s that I met are from Spain and Portugal and in Santiago a couple Germans, Dutch and Poles. People in Galicia wanted to share their Covid sorrow and also their hope for the future and their gratitude to be alive. So grateful & happy to be here.
Leaving early tomorrow morning.
Aymarah
 

Albertagirl

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances (2015); Aragones-Frances (2016); VdlP-Sanabres (2017); Madrid-Frances-Invierno (2019)Levante
I am so grateful for the information about overgrown paths on the Sanabres. I was seriously considering wearing lightweigt cotton trousers for my fall camino, as I expect much of the Levante from Valencia to Zamora to be hot. But the thought of struggling through overgrown, thorny trails on the Sanabres has shown me that heavier, thorn-resistant trousers are a good idea, if I don't want my legs to be full of holes. What are needed are lots of walkers in the summer, so I hope that Spanish pilgrims, and whoever else can get there, will provide.
 

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