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LIVE from the Camino On the Primitivo

LTfit

Veteran Member
Hi all,

Since I arrived this afternoon in Oviedo after completing the San Salvador and will start the Primitivo tomorrow, I decided to switch over to this section.

I'm staying at the municipal albergue which is the only one of two along the Primitivo open at this time. You must reserve in advance although there were 2 pilgrims waiting at the door who have just come down from the Norte and have been let in. The hospitalero said that he has 13 reservations thus far so I guess that I will have some company along the way.

Tomorrow off to Grado to stay at the private albergue La Quintana as the muni is expected to only open on July 1st.

IMG_20210607_152130.jpg
 
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NadineK

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances (2014)
Norte/Primitivo (2015)
San Salvador (2016)
Le Puy-Cahors (2017)
Aragonés (2019)
I loved your updates from the San Salvador and am looking forward to your experience on the Primitivo! It's all such valuable information and insights, to those of us hoping to walk later this summer. May you have good weather for all stages, but especially for Hospitales!
 

alexwalker

Forever Pilgrim
Year of past OR future Camino
(2009): Camino Frances
(2011): Sevilla-Salamanca, VdlP
(2012): Salamanca-SdC, VdlP
(2014): SJpdP-Astorga
(2015): Astorga-SdC
(2016) May Pamplona-Moratinos; Sept.:Burgos-SdC
(2016): August/Sept: Camino San Olav (Burgos-Covarubbias), Burgos-Sarria
(2017): May: Portuguese; Sept: Pamplona-SdC
I am very happy for you, amiga. You must have had a hard year++.

Buen Camino!
 

Grahammac

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Arles/Arogonese (2019)
I am also planning the Primitivo in August. Can you keep me posted? I completed the full Camino Francais from my home in Lodes, France, in 2019, via Olorons-st-Marie, Jaca, and the Aragone and Puenta La Reine.
 
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LTfit

Veteran Member
Started the Camino Primitivo this morning. Saw no other pilgrims but they must be out there, they just don't like to get up as early as I do😉. I arrived by 13:00 and it's now almost 17:00 and no one else in my dorm.

Day 1 0viedo - Grado 25 km
(Fitbit underestimates by 4-5 km everyday, I guess due to stride length).

Day was overcast and misty. Walked through forrest and up and down hills and villages in green Asturias.

I'm staying in the private albergue La Quintana for €14 as the muni is not yet open. Per @Rebekah Scott it should be ready on July 1st.

IMG_20210608_135856.jpg IMG_20210608_060915.jpg IMG_20210608_140310.jpg IMG_20210608_140319.jpg IMG_20210608_140325.jpg IMG_20210608_140346.jpg IMG_20210608_140405.jpg IMG_20210608_140551.jpg
 

LTfit

Veteran Member
I'll play catch-up since I didn't post yesterday.

Primitivo Day 2
Grado - Bodenaya 29 km
Day started with lots of mist and overcast most of the day. It was almost entirely in the forest with continuous ups and downs. Hence not many pictures to share but I do want to share my experience at the albergue at Bodenaya.

The albergue was taken over by David in 2015 and his now partner Celia, joined in 2018 (those who stayed there before 2015 were welcomed by Alex). David embodies what for me is the spirit of the Camino. I haven't met such a warm and caring hospitalero in years. What a 'cielo'. I felt so welcomed and cared for! David has reduced the number of beds to I believe 11 and now due to Covid he welcomes only about 5. Once again I was given a room by myself. We had a lovely vegetarian communal dinner and breakfast (properly distanced). If you get a chance to stay with David do! I suggest you reserve due to the few available places.

But back to my start in Grado. You can have breakfast in La Quintana but I like to leave by 6:30. Luckily there were 2 bars open on the main drag going out of town on the Camino, one right before the Repsol gas station and one one the corner on the left before you leave the main drag to continue on the Camino. I am glad I did because the bar in Doriga was closed (7 km after Grado). In Cornellana 12 km after Grado and in Salas (22 km after) you will find anything you may need.

IMG_20210609_090946.jpg IMG_20210609_091005.jpg IMG_20210609_153854.jpg IMG_20210610_072732.jpg IMG_20210609_153923.jpg
 
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LTfit

Veteran Member
Primitivo day 3 (today)
Bodenaya - Samblismo 30 km

What a beautiful day! We woke up to mist but by 10.30 the sun came out. Much of the walk was luckily with fantastic views rather than entirely in the forest. Rests in Tineo and Campiello. Lovely countryside and friendly locals offering advice, directions and a Buen Camino.

I'm now relaxing in Albergue Samblismo run by Javi who I first met when I was volunteering in Ponferrada and he was walking. A year later in 2019 I stayed with him during his second season with the albergue. At this point there is only one other peregrina but he is expecting about 8 in total. He also offers a communal dinner and breakfast. The location is 1,5 km after Borres, a great start if you are following the Hospitales route.

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LesBrass

Likes Walking
Year of past OR future Camino
yes...
We have a lovely evening at Samblismo... everyone raved about the homemade bread but I’m a celiac and could only enjoy the smell of it fresh from the oven 😂❤️
 

LTfit

Veteran Member
Day 4
Part 1: Samblismo - Berducedo through Hospitales (24 km)
Part 2: Berducedo - Grandas de Salime (20 km).

Today has two parts. The first was up and over the mountain than down to Berducedo.
I left at 7:30 in the fog and promised the others that I would Whatsapp after 30 and 60 minutes to let them know the weather conditions. Although there was fog, visibility was good enough to see all the way markers which are fantastic up along the Hospitales route. The wind on several occasions was quite strong, tearing my eyes and making the use of both walking sticks hard. What a relief when it finally stopped. Luckily the sun came out up top.
I forgot how slippery the stones were on the downhill and was happy to reach Montefurado where the terrain got easier. As it was only 12.45 by the time I reached Berducedo where I had booked an albergue (most of last night's group was going another 4 km on to a very modern looking albergue in A Mesa, see picture) I decided to continue on after 2 coffees.
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LTfit

Veteran Member
Part 2: Berducedo - Grandas de Salime (20 km).

What can I say except that the downhill to the embalse (reservoir) is a b*tch and much longer than I remember. It just goes on and on and on! Weather was good and views amazing but after 44 km I was glad to arrive in the albergue de peregrinos in Grandas de Salime. There are quite some pilgrims here, all new since I walked 2 stages.

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Tomorrow to A Fonsegrada followed by Castroverde then Lugo.
 
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David with new Kit!

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Wow, my wife and I walked 24kms locally in the UK yesterday. Your 44kms seems epic to me! (We normally limit ourselves to 20kms as that's enough for us) But, well done, I'm enjoying following your journey 👍
 

LTfit

Veteran Member
Primitivo day 5
Grandas de Salime - A Fonsegrada 25 km

I stayed in the Albergue de Peregrinos last night and was surprised that the hospitalero never came by in the evening to stamp our credentials or collect the €7.50 fee. There were quite a few pilgrims but we all had a bunk bed to ourselves. There is a "kitchen" but it only has a microwave and washing machine.

Today was another beautiful day with temps in the 20's and bright sunshine. Only negative was that there were no open bars until arriving in A Fonsegrada 25 km on. I remember there was a small café after the long climb up to Puerto de Acebo and back down but apparently it has since closed and Mesón de Catro Vientes about 6 km before A Fonsegrada only opens at 11:00 on Saturday. I wasn't going to wait a half hour. That final long, steep entry into town really gets your heart beating fast.

I'm staying at Albergue - Pensión Cantábrica close to the beautiful Xunta albergue that is closed. Yes, today I arrived in Galicia! The albergue has a well fitted kitchen with 2 induction stoves, a fridge, microwave and even glasses, plates and utensils! And for €12 you get sheets (pillow case, bottom and top), a towel and a quilt.

IMG_20210612_140606.jpg IMG_20210612_140653.jpg IMG_20210612_140706.jpg IMG_20210612_140843.jpg IMG_20210612_140921.jpg
 

jpflavin1

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
I am happy to see there does not seem to be any issues with accommodations. Are you reserving ahead of time?
 
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LTfit

Veteran Member
I am happy to see there does not seem to be any issues with accommodations. Are you reserving ahead of time?
I reserved accommodations on the Salvador and initial days on the Primitivo but my "schedule" has been thrown off due to my walking two stages in one day the day before yesterday. In some cases I have able to move the dates back a day in others, the albergue was fully booked. This happened in A Nave in Ponte Ferreira where I planned on staying after Lugo. My Dutch friends run Albergue Ponte Ferreira but are only leaving for Spain by car next Tuesday so I can't stay with them.

So I'll be winging it more than expected but that's good as I don't like the idea of having my whole Camino planned out.
 

jpflavin1

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Miraz is on the Norte and I read yesterday that they will remain closed this year.
But in Galacia. That is too bad. It will make the walk from Baamonde longer but that is the easier part of the Norte.

I am thinking Madrid/San Salvador/Primitivo this year. Therefore, very interested in your current journey.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
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jpflavin1

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
A string of sunny days in Gallicia?
An alberge in Galicia with utensils, pots, and pans?
Miracle. 🤣
(I was joking, @jpflavin1. 🙃)
A string of sunny days, I have never encountered. That said, I am sure someone has.
I reserved accommodations on the Salvador and initial days on the Primitivo but my "schedule" has been thrown off due to my walking two stages in one day the day before yesterday. In some cases I have able to move the dates back a day in others, the albergue was fully booked. This happened in A Nave in Ponte Ferreira where I planned on staying after Lugo. My Dutch friends run Albergue Ponte Ferreira but are only leaving for Spain by car next Tuesday so I can't stay with them.

So I'll be winging it more than expected but that's good as I don't like the idea of having my whole Camino planned out.
I am just happy to hear accommodations are available. By Fall, w/o another outbreak, they should be in full swing.
 

LTfit

Veteran Member
Primitivo day 6
A Fonsegrada - Castroverde
32 km

A storm was predicted for this afternoon but it's now 16:30 and the sun is still shining. Let it rain tonight so it's clear for my walk into Lugo tomorrow 🤞.

No complaints here. The scenery and path are beautiful. Everything is so lush and green in the mountains. The only negative today were the bugs that swarmed around your head going through the forests. It must be due to the increased humidity of the pending storm.

Last night I was surprised to count 18 pairs of walking shoes in the albergue but due to Covid requirements there were only 3 other pilgrims in our room of 4 bunkbeds. Most are walking to O Cádavo today (24 km), only one other Spanish woman who I spoke with and saw a few times today was planning on walking further.

Take note that there are no open cafés until 16 and 18 km and of course in O Cádavo.

Tomorrow a short day of 22 km and time to play tourist and visit a few sites.

IMG_20210613_145501.jpg IMG_20210613_145523.jpg IMG_20210613_145626.jpg IMG_20210613_145734.jpg
 

CarolamS

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2019
Thanks for the details and photos I'm enjoying this. I have annotated my Guide book. I had hoped to walk the Primitivo last year. Now I think it will be next year but you have me all keen to get there. I will do shorter stages though 😅
 

Flog

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
Your lovely photos bring back nice memories of the primitivo, it does sound busier than expected..
 
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LTfit

Veteran Member
I'm already in Melide where the Camino Primitivo meets up with the Camino Francés. But I'll first start with yesterday.

Primitivo day 7
Castroverde - Lugo 22 km

The evening before rained for several hours. Luckily in the morning the dampness cleared up and during the short walk to the city of Lugo there was sun with intermittent clouds. Only a few pictures taken. Another day without seeing a pilgrim.

I stayed in Four Rooms Hostel which is located in Plaza Camino Primitivo so before you enter the city walls. It's fairly new, open since 2018. It is very modern, clean and with a well equipped kitchen with fridge, microwave, coffee machine and water heater but no stove. Plates, glasses and utensils are available. For €20 you get a towel but throw away sheets. It has IMHO a very "unpilgrim" feel, it's truly a city hostel with an electronic check-in system and an electronic card to get in and out. I did meet the owner (I wouldn't call him a hospitalero) as he was finishing cleaning the hostel when I arrived. I ended up being the only one there!

Few pictures taken today.

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LTfit

Veteran Member
Today Primitivo day 8
Lugo - Ponte Ferreira - Melide 47 km

My original plan was to stay in Ponte Ferreira 27 km after Lugo but due to my previous stage changes today the albergue was full. The next possiblity was about 8 km after in As Seixas but it was only 12:30 when I arrived in the hamlet. Why not just continue to Melide? No one will believe me, but I actually thought that Melide was only 13 km from Ponte Ferreira. No. It's 20 km. Luckily I didn't know that while walking, my feet just kept moving 🤣. So here I am already in Melide. A sunny and warm 27c. Only two albergues are open here and I got the last bed. In a dorm of 14 only 4 beds are being occupied.
All is well. It's time for a Clara!

p.s. there is a new café in San Román about 19 km from Lugo, a great distance to have a rest stop. IMG_20210615_102313.jpg IMG_20210615_171527.jpg IMG_20210615_171633.jpg IMG_20210615_171734.jpg IMG_20210615_171804.jpg IMG_20210615_171814.jpg

IMG_20210615_102023.jpg
 

Jo Jo

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF, July '14 & Sep-Oct '16
Via di Francesco, July '15,
CP Oct. '17, Salvador & Primitivo Sep '19
We are the Primitivo now. Campiello tonight. First post. Basically the message is that the Primitivo is open enough to be easily do-able by an experienced peregrino/a (with vaccines). Private albergues are open. So are most restaurants/bars. Note Albergue Taxu in La Spina is under new management. Bunk beds gone. Rooms upstairs. Donativo. Great dinner and breakfast.
 

jpflavin1

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Today Primitivo day 8
Lugo - Ponte Ferreira - Melide 47 km

My original plan was to stay in Ponte Ferreira 27 km after Lugo but due to my previous stage changes today the albergue was full. The next possiblity was about 8 km after in As Seixas but it was only 12:30 when I arrived in the hamlet. Why not just continue to Melide? No one will believe me, but I actually thought that Melide was only 13 km from Ponte Ferreira. No. It's 20 km. Luckily I didn't know that while walking, my feet just kept moving 🤣. So here I am already in Melide. A sunny and warm 27c. Only two albergues are open here and I got the last bed. In a dorm of 14 only 4 beds are being occupied.
All is well. It's time for a Clara!

p.s. there is a new café in San Román about 19 km from Lugo, a great distance to have a rest stop. View attachment 102559 View attachment 102560 View attachment 102562 View attachment 102563 View attachment 102564 View attachment 102565

View attachment 102558
Clara sounds like a fitting end to a 47 km day.
 
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OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
Wow 😯 wow & whoa there 😃😃😃
Today Primitivo day 8
Lugo - Ponte Ferreira - Melide 47 km

So here I am already in Melide. A sunny and warm 27c
I am amazed at your stamina Lee, and it seems you’re not even trying ! I think you would outwalk most teenagers.

Your next problem though, will be, arriving a lot sooner than anticipated and wondering where to walk next ? I’m sure you have a long list to select from.

I will be following with interest.
Buen camino
Annie
 

LTfit

Veteran Member
Primitivo Day 9 (or day 13 including the Salvador)

I don't know what to say guys but...I've already arrived in Santiago! Who knows what my secret is, my legs just keep moving, my mind follows (or the other way around) and I just keep going.
As I reach my proposed destination (today it was going to be O Pedrouzo) I decide whether to stop or continue. I continued. The next stop was going to be Lavacolla, just 10 km from Santiago. I even reserved a bed, but the sun came out (we had had 2 major downpours and thunder during the day) so I just carried on. And there was absolutely no line at the Pilgrim's Office. I walked right in after signing up using the QR code at the entrance. The nice guard helped me out with the scanning. I treated myself to a lovely glass of Godello which I am still feeling while writing this😀.

My final day:
Melide - Arzúa - O Pedrouzo - Santiago 52,8 km per Gronze

What a mixed bag today! There were lots of groups walking, mostly young people with "coches de apoyo" (vans carrying drinks, food and packs) but I also had periods where I saw no one. Thunder and a couple of heavy torrential downpours made for a wet walk but I was lucky to dry off in between and the sun even came out in Lavacolla.

Strangely enough I took lots of pictures. The sky was at times spectacular!

I'm in San Martin Pinario for the first time in years as in the past I stayed with a fellow Forum member. Tomorrow I will stay to visit the cathedral (only had a short peek IMG_20210616_175216.jpg IMG_20210616_175301.jpg

today) and figure out where to get a PCR test to return to The Netherlands (yes, even though I'm already vaccinated twice).

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Elle Bieling

Elle Bieling, PilgrimageTraveler
Year of past OR future Camino
2014
Primitivo Day 9 (or day 13 including the Salvador)

I don't know what to say guys but...I've already arrived in Santiago! Who knows what my secret is, my legs just keep moving, my mind follows (or the other way around) and I just keep going.
As I reach my proposed destination (today it was going to be O Pedrouzo) I decide whether to stop or continue. I continued. The next stop was going to be Lavacolla, just 10 km from Santiago. I even reserved a bed, but the sun came out (we had had 2 major downpours and thunder during the day) so I just carried on. And there was absolutely no line at the Pilgrim's Office. I walked right in after signing up using the QR code at the entrance. The nice guard helped me out with the scanning. I treated myself to a lovely glass of Godello which I am still feeling while writing this😀.

My final day:
Melide - Arzúa - O Pedrouzo - Santiago 52,8 km per Gronze
Wow, and congratulations! I don't know how you do it!
 

jpflavin1

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Primitivo Day 9 (or day 13 including the Salvador)

I don't know what to say guys but...I've already arrived in Santiago! Who knows what my secret is, my legs just keep moving, my mind follows (or the other way around) and I just keep going.
As I reach my proposed destination (today it was going to be O Pedrouzo) I decide whether to stop or continue. I continued. The next stop was going to be Lavacolla, just 10 km from Santiago. I even reserved a bed, but the sun came out (we had had 2 major downpours and thunder during the day) so I just carried on. And there was absolutely no line at the Pilgrim's Office. I walked right in after signing up using the QR code at the entrance. The nice guard helped me out with the scanning. I treated myself to a lovely glass of Godello which I am still feeling while writing this😀.

My final day:
Melide - Arzúa - O Pedrouzo - Santiago 52,8 km per Gronze

What a mixed bag today! There were lots of groups walking, mostly young people with "coches de apoyo" (vans carrying drinks, food and packs) but I also had periods where I saw no one. Thunder and a couple of heavy torrential downpours made for a wet walk but I was lucky to dry off in between and the sun even came out in Lavacolla.

Strangely enough I took lots of pictures. The sky was at times spectacular!

I'm in San Martin Pinario for the first time in years as in the past I stayed with a fellow Forum member. Tomorrow I will stay to visit the cathedral (only had a short peek View attachment 102667 View attachment 102668

today) and figure out where to get a PCR test to return to The Netherlands (yes, even though I'm already vaccinated twice).

View attachment 102669 View attachment 102670 View attachment 102671 View attachment 102672 View attachment 102674 View attachment 102676 View attachment 102679

Lift:

Congratulations, have a safe trip home.

I was wondering were there any covid related issues. I know you mentioned spacing in Albergues. Were masks required anywhere? Were locals wearing masks? How about Santiago?

Thanks,
Joe
 
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Year of past OR future Camino
2019
The sky was at times spectacular!
There are few more beautiful things than sunlut black clouds from a receeding shower.

Loving your pics, especially the one with the 2 pilgrims and reflections in the puddle. It's so evocative. As is the photo of the entrance to San Martin Pinario. (And that concrete ramp? Grf. It was so much better before...)
 

LTfit

Veteran Member
There are few more beautiful things than sunlut black clouds from a receeding shower.

Loving your pics, especially the one with the 2 pilgrims and reflections in the puddle. It's so evocative. As is the photo of the entrance to San Martin Pinario. (And that concrete ramp? Grf. It was so much better before...)
Totally agree about that ramp although I am glad they replaced the overpass/bridge over the highway made of old wooden planks.

I took so many pictures of that couple with pink and blue ponchos and see you caught the reflection in the pond😉
 
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LTfit

Veteran Member
Lift:

Congratulations, have a safe trip home.

I was wondering were there any covid related issues. I know you mentioned spacing in Albergues. Were masks required anywhere? Were locals wearing masks? How about Santiago?

Thanks,
Joe
Thanks Joe!
Covid regulations are definitely still in place with reduced capacity in albergues and many still closed.
Mask wearing is still mandatory both inside and outside although may be taken off when eating or drinking in a café or restaurant. Within an albergue between pilgrims it's a mixed bag. You do not have to sleep with one on.

Locals in small towns sometimes did not wear a mask when in the street (I always put one one when passing through) but always in cities! Here in Santiago is no exception.

The mandatory mask wearing I expect will change as more of the population gets vaccinated but who knows!
 
Year of past OR future Camino
2019
Thanks Joe!
Covid regulations are definitely still in place with reduced capacity in albergues and many still closed.
Mask wearing is still mandatory both inside and outside although may be taken off when eating or drinking in a café or restaurant. Within an albergue between pilgrims it's a mixed bag. You do not have to sleep with one on.

Locals in small towns sometimes did not wear a mask when in the street (I always put one one when passing through) but always in cities! Here in Santiago is no exception.

The mandatory mask wearing I expect will change as more of the population gets vaccinated but who knows!
I have thoroughly enjoyed your posts, @LTfit. I cannot say I am envious, you have your own joy in what you can achieve in your caminos - far beyond my short little legs in the same time frame! My delight is really for you, to be covering ground, camino wise, even in the aftermath of the brave venture that you had to abandon, of your Albergue dream. Buen camino! Hope you are enjoying being a grandmother!
 
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Kanga

Moderator
Staff member
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés x 5, Le Puy x 2, Arles, Tours, Norte, Madrid, Via de la Plata, Portuguese, Primitivo
Goodness @LTfit what a fabulous walk. The information about albergues and accommodation will be invaluable for those walking soon. And Lee - did you go to Rûa do Franco and was Bispo open?
 

jpflavin1

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Thanks Joe!
Covid regulations are definitely still in place with reduced capacity in albergues and many still closed.
Mask wearing is still mandatory both inside and outside although may be taken off when eating or drinking in a café or restaurant. Within an albergue between pilgrims it's a mixed bag. You do not have to sleep with one on.

Locals in small towns sometimes did not wear a mask when in the street (I always put one one when passing through) but always in cities! Here in Santiago is no exception.

The mandatory mask wearing I expect will change as more of the population gets vaccinated but who knows!
Thank you LT.
 

Owensr23

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Loved reading the thread and viewing your fantastic photos.

I plan to be leaving Ovideo going west mid-September this year.

Thanks for all the great information.
 
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This book's focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared.
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LTfit

Veteran Member
This will be my final report from the Camino. Thanks for joining me and of course feel free to ask questions!

Yesterday was a poncho day. I dug it out of the bottom of my backpack, unused over the past two weeks. I have been so lucky with the weather over the mountains on the Camino de San Salvador and Primitivo. It could not have been more perfect!
My last day in Santiago looks like another poncho day. This evening I fly back to The Netherlands.
It has definitely been a different experience walking now but then again, every Camino is different and special in its own way.
Ultreia!

Screenshot_2021-06-18-07-48-50-860_com.accuweather.android.jpg IMG_20210617_101335.jpg IMG_20210617_101312.jpg IMG_20210617_104241.jpg
 
Year of past OR future Camino
1998
Know you're being sarcastic but I've actually done that twice😉
Ha! Not suprised. You would be an excellent candidate for La Pontevedrada, which is a fundraising walk from Pontevedra to Santiago, 67 km non-stop:

Cancelled this year because of COVID:
 
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