On the road again -VdlP

[laineylainey]

Well it's all about to start again, this walking malarkey, this time the VdLP from Mérida to Zamora. Starting in Mérida because of the heat in Sevilla usually, but I think it's hotter today in Merida at 34° than yesterday in Seville!
Staying at Hostal Sereno and would highly recommend. Have had a day of sightseeing the wonderful Roman sites all for a pensioners rate of €7.50! Fabulous city, great people, and very reasonable to eat out. No Peregrinos so far but perhaps tomorrow on the road to Aljucen...I am lucky to be walking with my Camino buddy,Jorgen from Denmark.

 

[alexwalker]

Well it's all about to start again, this walking malarkey, this time the VdLP from Mérida to Zamora. Starting in Mérida because of the heat in Sevilla usually, but I think it's hotter today in Merida at 34° than yesterday in Seville!
Staying at Hostal Sereno and would highly recommend. Have had a day of sightseeing the wonderful Roman sites all for a pensioners rate of €7.50! Fabulous city, great people, and very reasonable to eat out. No Peregrinos so far but perhaps tomorrow on the road to Aljucen...I am lucky to be walking with my Camino buddy,Jorgen from Denmark.

Amazing monuments! Been there twice. You have a very nice walk ahead.

Buen Camino!

 

[nycwalking]

One day I'll walk VdlP.

Buen camino.

 

[laineylainey]

And what a city Sevilla is. I hope to walk Sevilla to Mérida next spring and look forward to another day in both cities.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Well it's all about to start again, this walking malarkey, this time the VdLP from Mérida to Zamora. Starting in Mérida because of the heat in Sevilla usually, but I think it's hotter today in Merida at 34° than yesterday in Seville!
Staying at Hostal Sereno and would highly recommend. Have had a day of sightseeing the wonderful Roman sites all for a pensioners rate of €7.50! Fabulous city, great people, and very reasonable to eat out. No Peregrinos so far but perhaps tomorrow on the road to Aljucen...I am lucky to be walking with my Camino buddy,Jorgen from Denmark.

Buen Camino.

 

[laineylainey]

A lovely quiet walk today from Mérida to Aljucen . The way around the resevoire was lovely. We are staying at Albergue Rio and it is great. Fernando has the key for the lovely Church and is happy to take you across to have a visit.
The pub/restaurant opposite the albergue does food all day and does a very good value €8.50 menu el día. Although it mentions in one of the guides that the local shop only opens in the morning it also opens in the evening. I couldn't find Albergue Annalena but that is not to say it is closed?
Soooo hot and forecast for 37° tomorrow, thank goodness it is flat! Although it was only 16k today because of the heat it took me longer to walk it I think!

 

[laineylainey]

I think the walk from Aljucen to Alcuescar is lovely , just my kind of walk, quiet, countryside, flat -a bit of a gentle amble. But is this heat, for me it sort of morphed into an endless road with no shade. I forget every year until I get back walking that there are always days when I constantly ask myself "maybe it's just around the next corner" or "it cant be too far, I've been walking 4 hours " or my real favourite today " why am I doing this???"
Hot hot hot, it doesn't bring out my best side this heat! Stopping at Hostel Olivas. Albergue didn't seem to be open when I arrived so I have a single room with shower and sink (toilet down the hall) in the hostal and it's cheap, clean and has a good restaurant, what more could I ask ( that tomorrow isn't as hot!) . Oh and I wish I hadn't bought a sleeping bag - far too hot at night.
My Camino buddy is in Alcuescar at the Monasterio Albergue and has a room to himself. He is well pleased because there is a mass at 7pm.

 

[laineylainey]

A short walk today from Alcuescar to the lovely town of Aldea del Cano. We have a lovely big room in the lovely Casa Rural Via de la Plata. It is the home of Teresa's grandparents and it so beautiful and reasonable. Tonight we hope to eat at La Posada just up from the church and I am so excited because on the menu are grilled vegetables for 2 for €10. I don't care if they are grilled, scorched or boiled, just the thought of a plate of veg makes my stomach sing ( only because I have eaten pollo y patatas too much over the last 5 days)
Aldea del Cano is such a lovely town and although it is very hot it's great to be here on a Sunday and enjoy how sociable the Spanish can be. Tomorrow Cáceres!

 

[alexwalker]

...But is this heat, for me it sort of morphed into an endless road with no shade. I forget every year until I get back walking that there are always days when I constantly ask myself "maybe it's just around the next corner" or "it cant be too far, I've been walking 4 hours " or my real favourite today " why am I doing this???"

In May 2012 I walked from Salamanca to SdC. it was 19 days of rain and icy winds, 2 days of snow on 2 moountain passes, and one day partly cloudy walking into SdC... Just saying...

 

[Waka]

In May 2012 I walked from Salamanca to SdC. it was 19 days of rain and icy winds, 2 days of snow on 2 moountain passes, and one day partly cloudy walking into SdC... Just saying...

Knowing my luck I'll gert that all the way from Saville to SDC from Feb next year.

 

[NualaOC]

Thanks for your posts, @laineylainey! I've bookmarked them for when it's my turn to walk this route. Wishing you a Buen Camino.
PS - enjoy the heat, the weather here has turned very cold

 

[laineylainey]

Yes Nuala my husband says it's freezing in Fermanagh!
VdlP is a truly beautiful route, lovely and flat and fabulous towns/cities. Love where we are staying tonight.

 

[laineylainey]

In May 2012 I walked from Salamanca to SdC. it was 19 days of rain and icy winds, 2 days of snow on 2 moountain passes, and one day partly cloudy walking into SdC... Just saying...

One extreme to another!

 

[alexwalker]

One extreme to another!

Yes, I was so surprised. Never been freezing so much in Spain!

 

[laineylainey]

A good walk from Aldea del Cano to Cáceres. New town Valdesalor after 11km where we had coffee a d something to eat. Once it hits around 11am you can really feel the temperature rise. By 4pm in Cáceres it was 36°. Takes your credencial to the lovely Cathedral and you can visit for free and get a stamp. Couldn't find Miniveres (?) Restaurant in Plaza Mayor but we had cheaper tapas off the square in a little side street. I like Cáceres although it's a bit touristy. Stayed at a lovely hotel in Plaza Major ( very reasonable at €25 including breakfast) Hotel Iberia and we could have a lovely breakfast at 6am this morning before heading off for the road to Alcántara.

 

[laineylainey]

We started at 6am from Cáceres and it was 24°. We arrived at the Embalse at Alcántara at 4pm and I was almost ill with the heat and the fact I had just about run out of water, a thing that has never happened before but then I have never walked in such heat before. I really really recommend topping up on water supplies in Casar de Cáceres because after that it's 22k without anywhere to top up. Having said that it was a lovely walk after Casar although the countryside is very brown and the resevoire is very low, so much so at one point we thought we saw the steeple of a church emerging from the water- was it an old town before it became a resevoire?
To those who haven't walk this part be careful if you are staying at the now reopened Embalse Albergue, the signage (imo) is not great. From when you join the main road it's about 5 or 6 km. You go over 2 road bridges over the resevoire and then for about 1km climb up the road. There is then a sign for the Camino straight ahead but in the left there is a Casa Rural and also a small sign for the Albergue but I think you could miss it. I was only aware because I was using Google maps and she said "turn left"! The albergue is 500 meters down the lane past the Casa Rural, which by the way I tried to book but they told me they do not take 1 night bookings anymore?
Good news about the Albergue, there is now a menu del día and a okay menú. The kitchen closes at 8pm so we are going to try the menú del día at 7pm.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, lainey,
I can’t imagine doing that walk in the heat. In the cool of spring, it was a challenge. And those many kms alongside the route winding along the reservoir are not too inspiring either.

I totally agree with you about the albergue at the Embalse. The turn-off is not hidden, but not well marked. And the Casa Rural, when I was there, has no inidications that it is a commercial venture, so all you see is a house on the side of the road at the turnoff, and a sign that says “albergue turístico” if you look closely. I know of at least four or five who were headed there the day I was and never turned up, so they must have walked on to Cañaveral. That is a nice off road walk, but not after walking all the way from Cáceres.

We need to shout it from the mountaintops — peregrinos, be careful for the embalse albergue turnoff!

 

[laineylainey]

Just to report the menu at Albergue Embalse is good enough. I had Lovely cold soup (gapazho?), salad and then ice cream, great for me! Such a treat to have your clothes washed in a washing machine and in the heat inthe day, dry within 30 mins!
Today because I have a cold and wasn't sure about the weather, we took a taxi to Cañaveral and the walked a lovely 18k in gorgeous countryside to Riolobos. Saw, as yesterday, many wonderful (golden?) eagles flying the thermals - just fantastic. We are staying in the wonderful Casi Rural Abuela . If there were a group of Peregrinos staying here it would be like having your own private Casa Rural. As it is we are the only 2 people here so far! Good town with at least 2 shops, a chemist, pub/cafe and for my Danish amigo a church. Perfect.

 

[NualaOC]

Sorry you’ve a cold, @laineylainey - as if the heat wasn’t challenging enough on its own! Hope it clears soon and that you get some respite from those high temperatures.

Keep an eye out for my Canadian friend Heather - she’s somewhere behind you on the VdlP. I reckon your paths will cross sometime. Nuala.

 

[laineylainey]

Hi Nuala!
In Carcaboso today where the oldest Spanish Albergue is (Albergue Elena?).
For anyone who hasn't walked this route, be careful after leaving Galisteo NOT to follow the sign at the roundabout signed "Camino". I did follow it for a while and was wondering why there were no boot tracks when luckily a local farmer pointed out my mistake and I headed back to the roundabout to pick up the correct road for Carcaboso! Easy enough walk today but then it was only 18k.
Tomorrow I think the cold will necessitate a bus to Plasencia and then to Aldeanueva. It would be lovely to meet some more Peregrinas and I will certainly look out for your friend.
I think I have underestimated the daily distances in this weather a couple more 30k+ coming up. Heyho!

 

[laineylainey]

Didn't walk today as I am a whimp with a cold! Took bus to Plasencia- what a lovely City and Cathedral- and then bus to Aldeanueva. Love the Albergue- la Casa de mi Abuela. There seems to be another new (?) Casa Rural in town La Casita Esencia, it wasn't mentioned in the guides?

 

[peregrina2000]

Just to report the menu at Albergue Embalse is good enough. I had Lovely cold soup (gapazho?), salad and then ice cream, great for me! Such a treat to have your clothes washed in a washing machine and in the heat inthe day, dry within 30 mins!
Today because I have a cold and wasn't sure about the weather, we took a taxi to Cañaveral and the walked a lovely 18k in gorgeous countryside to Riolobos. Saw, as yesterday, many wonderful (golden?) eagles flying the thermals - just fantastic. We are staying in the wonderful Casi Rural Abuela . If there were a group of Peregrinos staying here it would be like having your own private Casa Rural. As it is we are the only 2 people here so far! Good town with at least 2 shops, a chemist, pub/cafe and for my Danish amigo a church. Perfect.

Hi, laineylainey, I remember the stretch from Cañaveral to Grimaldo (where i stayed in another very nice place, Posaada de Grimaldo) and then on to Carcaboso. I agree that it is very lovely. I didn’t take the detour to Riolobos, but I have heard other opinions like yours. It is too bad that people made that investment on having the Camino re-routed there, and then learning that the camino authorities had gotten an alternative more direct to Galisteo. I am sure their business is hurting.

I dodged tons of cows in big groups on that day, it was not one of my favorite days. Since the ground was so soaked, every time I went off camino to dart around the cattle, I found myself up to my ankles in water. At least you won’t have that problem!

 

[laineylainey]

Very short day today after a wonderful night's sleep in Aldeanueva. We diverted to the lovely town of Hervas- what a treat. Wonderful old Jewish Quarter, including the original Synagoue now appartments. We are now in Baños de Montemajor , again another wonderful Spanish town. Love it!
For me this Camino is less a Camino and more a wonderful Spanish walk but PLEASE don't ask me what the difference is!!

 

[laineylainey]

The road to Fuenterroble is a lovely change as there are at least 3 towns to stop to rest, have a drink and have some fabulous free pinchos. Yesterday in Baños I kept topping up with lovely pieces of fish, tortilla and even paella.
Here in Fuenterobble I have just had a lovely (cold) glass of vino tinto de Casa with a gorgeous piece of tuna tortilla - what a treat and it was €1.
Staying in the lovely Casa Rural Arrerios while my friend stays in the Albergue Religioso where I will join him for supper at 9pm. It looks a very special Albergue.

 

[laineylainey]

There are 2 walking options after about 12k out of Fuenterroble. So glad we took the left road to San Pedro which went to the top of the Camino with wonderful views of the mountains. The weather is much cooler especially in the mornings. Not much in San Pedro and although Kelly's guide says there are 2 cafe/restaurants we could only find one -VII Carrereas.

 

[laineylainey]

No breakfast today when we set off, but thought there might be somewhere open in Morille, 3k later, but not so! Still had another option about 12k later signposted on the right -Miranda. I have never enjoyed a sandwich and coffee so much!
In Salamanca now, it's a beautiful looking city and I am looking forward to a day sightseeing tomorrow.
Much cooler now in the mornings , so glad I did bring my gloves!

 

[laineylainey]

Oh forgot to mention a lovely sight some 2k outside the outskirts of Salamanca- a colourful cross not the same as the famous Cruz de Ferro on the CF but just as significant, for me.

 

[laineylainey]

Had a rest day in Salamanca yesterday seeing the wonderful and very busy city. It was wonderful. It seems such a vibrant city with the university and all the young people mingling with the mainly older tourists! Would definitely come back for a long weekend to check out the Irish Theatre amongst lots of other wondercul places to see and I love the variety of restaurants and pubs.
Today had a fairly leisurely walk to Calzado de Valdunciel. The walk out of Salamanca isnt marked until you get as far out as the big Carrefour store , maybe 4k?. But it's just straight out of the Plaza Major on Rua Zamora and keep going straight. As city exit walks go, it wasn't bad at all (imo!). The town 12k after Salamanca only has a shop and not a cafe as reported in some guides.
Staying at Hostal El Pozo but wish I had gone for the Albergue which I am told is lovely, while El Pozo is a bit sad and currently the restaurant is closed. However there is a well recommended restaurant and bar up the end of the main road and turn right - Joaquin. Tapas til 4pm and looking forward to a meal tonight at 9pm.
Tomorrow El Cubo and looking forward to Albergue FyM.

 

[laineylainey]

Although at the beginning of the week the mornings were much cooler and even the afternoons not getting much above 22° all of a sudden it's getting warmer again, so the boring walk from Valdunciel de Calzado to El Cubo was lovely and warm. I decided to break the monotony of the walk by listening to some music ( I can hear the "tut tuts" from the purists!), boy did it make for a get walk. ELO Mister Blue Skies followed by a melody of the Beatles including Hey Jude, which I find great to walk to and I even had a bit of a dance.
El Cubo is a bit boring but the choice to stay here and do the longer walk tomorrow to Zamora is simply based on the fact that the weather forecast for tomorrow is cooler which for me is better walking longer distances.
Staying at the Albergue FyM which is okay but up for sale, so not sure if it will still change hands before next year?
There isn't much here but the hospitalera and her family are very friendly and helpful.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Thanks for your reports. Some days behind you and perfect to have some recommendations and new info. Buen Camino.

 

[laineylainey]

Thanks for your reports. Some days behind you and perfect to have some recommendations and new info. Buen Camino.

You are very welcome! Yes there are a few things different to even Kelly's guide, but I am sure you will enjoy every step!

 

[laineylainey]

Last day for me as I am finishing in Zamora. May be back next year to pick up the Sevilla to Mérida bit or the Zamora to Santiago bit via Sanabres- who knows!
I recommend the road to Zamora rather than the Camino itself as there are a couple if good towns with great bars and tapas. Even Mercedes last night from Albergue Gym recommended the road, but who knows!!
Love Zamora - the Albergue is amazing.
And love to all those following or planning to do this route, it is definitely different , amazing and (for me) challenging in very different ways.
Buen Camino x

 

[NualaOC]

Well done @laineylainey and thanks for all your posts. Hope you have an easy journey home.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I

Last day for me as I am finishing in Zamora. May be back next year to pick up the Sevilla to Mérida bit or the Zamora to Santiago bit via Sanabres- who knows!
I recommend the road to Zamora rather than the Camino itself as there are a couple if good towns with great bars and tapas. Even Mercedes last night from Albergue Gym recommended the road, but who knows!!
Love Zamora - the Albergue is amazing.
And love to all those following or planning to do this route, it is definitely different , amazing and (for me) challenging in very different ways.
Buen Camino x

I loved the country side road to Zamora. Nice views and I had such good luck with perfect photo light. But I'm more interested I photography than tapas ;-)