On the Ruta del Ebro

[peregrina2000]

Day one, Riumar to Sant Carles de la Rapita, 36.7 --but absolutely no elevation gain.

We're in a cute little pension with a view of the lovely harbor from our balcony (if you stretch your neck). We will have a picnic supper out there.

Almost all day off road, well marked with arrows, nearly all by the Ebro or along a canal. Lots of rice paddies, an occasional artichoke patch or fig tree. Tomorrow Tortosa.

All is well, hugs from Annie and Laurie.

 

[SabsP]

Wow quite some distance already!
Enjoy Tortosa, such a nice city....

 

[MichaelB10398]

That is some walking even if it is flat - very impressive. Sounds like a great pension and a delightful location for a evening picnic. It is great that you are taking advantage of so many beautiful things around you and I am grateful to you for sharing.

All the best,

 

[JohnnieWalker]

I'm just jealous

 

[anniethenurse]

This is the view from our balcony if se stretch out a little.

 

[Castilian]

Enjoy it all both of you!

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Totally jealous: that was my 'last year' camino - beautiful, and tranquil. Not enough pilgrims for some tastes [but perfect for mine]. Three of the four albergues I stayed in ... I was alone!!
Enjoy, Laurie!
Off in five days to walk SdC to Finisterre ....

S
x

 

[peregrina2000]

Day 2-- Sant Carles to Tortosa. Since I messed up my GPS (par for the course) I don't have exact kms but I would bet it was about 30. The entire route, except for the kms into Amposta and Tortosa, were along the canal of the Ebro and off road. It was hot -- 30 I think-- and no shade at all.

In spite of the seeming simplicity of this stage, the GPS proved invaluable on several occasions. Marking is spotty. As we were walking, we met an amigo from Amposta who apologized and said they were working on it -- apologize??? We are grateful and appreciative to be able to do this.

One woman out walking on the canal asked if we were walking to Santiago. I told her yes and then added that no one had yet said Buen camino. She took care of that, with hugs and kisses thrown in for good luck.

We are in the lovely parador, once again with a balcony. Though I am going to visit the cathedral, I will make sure to chill in the luxury for a while.

Buen camino from the two wandering peregrinas.

 

[C clearly]

Buen camino from the two wandering peregrinas.

I like that! What did you do, in the end, regarding phone, etc.

 

[alansykes]

Day 2-- Sant Carles to Tortosa. Since I messed up my GPS (par for the course) I don't have exact kms but I would bet it was about 30. The entire route, except for the kms into Amposta and Tortosa, were along the canal of the Ebro and off road. It was hot -- 30 I think-- and no shade at all.

In spite of the seeming simplicity of this stage, the GPS proved invaluable on several occasions. Marking is spotty. As we were walking, we met an amigo from Amposta who apologized and said they were working on it -- apologize??? We are grateful and appreciative to be able to do this.

One woman out walking on the canal asked if we were walking to Santiago. I told her yes and then added that no one had yet said Buen camino. She took care of that, with hugs and kisses thrown in for good luck.

We are in the lovely parador, once again with a balcony. Though I am going to visit the cathedral, I will make sure to chill in the luxury for a while.

Buen camino from the two wandering peregrinas.

Enjoy the parador and try to be there for the sun setting over the valley (this was from February, so your sun will be well north of this one). Buen camino.

 

[Castilian]

I told her yes and then added that no one had yet said Buen camino.

I guess nobody greeted you yet but in Catalonia you are more likely to be greeted Bon Camí.

P.S.: Enjoy Tortosa!

 

[peregrina2000]

I like that! What did you do, in the end, regarding phone, etc.

Hi @C clearly , I have my iPhone with a Spanish SIM card inside and brought the GPS. No supplemental charger and so far so good. And no camera either so I am carrying two fewer gadgets than last year. My goal for next year is to figure out how to get the GPS function on the phone. But not now.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Following your route.
Enjoyed Tortosa, but saved the 2 euros entrance fee to the Cathedral - it was shut!
Buen camino, Laurie!

 

[peregrina2000]

Day three. Tortosa to Benifallet albergue. I think this was about 25.

We thought 14 to Xerta (where there is now a very nice albergue named Assut) was too short so after a long coffee and boots break we headed to the old train station, now albergue, on the Via Verde. No beds available but they set up a tent for the two of us.

Beautiful walk along the Ebro, but if you're going to leave from Tortosa anytime soon, let us know because it was a mess even with GPS --- but we know what we did wrong and can help you avoid our confused meanderings.

These Via Verdes are a stroke of genius. Extremely popular with young and old, fit and not so fit, all on bikes on a path with a very gentle incline. We are the only walkers so far.

There's also a hotel in the town of Benifallet but it's more than 4 kms away so we decided to forego its undoubted many charms.

Mañana Gandesa!

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Laurie I’m sure you’ll be recording great notes. I’d love to do this in combo with another camino but after the CPI last year I’d like a bit more company. WIll you be posting a resource when you’ve finished?
Is it only you and Annie so far?

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Make sure you go on the free visit to the Gaudy-style winery in Gandesa!

I think I stayed 2 nights in Gandesa, above a Chinese Bazaar close to the central roundabout...
You're bringing back so many happy memories!!

 

[VNwalking]

we met an amigo from Amposta who apologized and said they were working on it -- apologize??? We are grateful and appreciative to be able to do this.
One woman out walking on the canal asked if we were walking to Santiago. I told her yes and then added that no one had yet said Buen camino. She took care of that, with hugs and kisses thrown in for good luck.

Wonderful, Laurie, it sounds like you two are having a blast--and have already met some Camino angels! Confused wanderings are fun, too, so long as you have the energy and time.

These Via Verdes are a stroke of genius.

Yeah, I totally loved the one going into Burgos after Modubar de san Cibrian--it was a totally green and painless way to get right into the center of town. Not to mention flat!

Buen camino from the two wandering peregrinas.

Buen Camino back!--as I write this you're in the middle of the morning (I'm late at night...) and I hope it's a very good one.
Thank you for bringing us along, Laurie-I really appreciate the vicarious camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

The walk to Gandesa was great. The first part on the old rail tracks (only one tunnel where I had to use my phone flashlight), then the beautiful La Fontcalda, then up to the metal feet and then up some more.

Got into Gsndesa with plenty of time for the museum, which I enjoyed a lot. Lots of good information, videos, and posters. I learned that the Internationsl Brigades had 30,000 troops fighting in the battles near Gandesa -- 21,000 died. The video about life in the aftermath of the war was also very touching and sad.

Today to Fabara was nothing spectacular but very enjoyable-- vineyards, almond trees, virtually no traffic. Totally solitary, just what the doctor ordered. Marking is fine. With the 2 km back into town from the albergue, our total was again around 34. If given the choice between staying in Batea or Fabara, I'd second Alan's thoughts. But the people here have been really nice and staying here also allows you to pick up the keys to the second century mausoleum and walk the several kms out to visit. You get both the key to open the enclosure and also to get into the actual burial chamber. Very cool.

Tomorrow Caspe. Temps have been great. On the cool side (10 degrees starting out) and no rain. Buen camino from Laurie and Annie.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Enoy Caspe - I was totally alone in the albergue ... but kept company during the day by all the storks, standing to attention and facing the same way when they saw me!!


You are bringing back so many wonderful memories.
I promise no more photos..... I'm flying to SdC tomorrow!!
S
x

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks Stephen! We will go check out the hospital de Santo Domingo. (I showed your picture to our Hostal owner and she told me where it was.).

We are in Caspe. 24 km from Fabara and a very nice place. We have had our main meal now and will go explore.

We've got reservations for the next two nights --not because of a bed rush but because there are so few places to stay!

Good walk today. All off road and quiet. I had some good conversations with a guy working in his field and a señora who had just picked a lot of cherries and insisted I take a bag full. No other pilgrims yet but maybe after Zaragoza!!

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

No other pilgrims yet but maybe after Zaragoza!!

Admittedly it was in earlier May, but I met only one other pilgrim until I reached Logrono, where one could see a steady stream coming over the bridge on the French camino!
Good luck & buen camino, Laurie.
Off in 18 hours to SdC ....

S
x

 

[peregrina2000]

We're here in Escatron, a town that time has forgotten. Sprawled from the river up to the highway. More abandoned houses than normal. I had a long chat with a woman who was born and still lives on the Calle Mayor and wow have things changed.

Today's walk,32 km from Caspe, was one of those that makes you ask -- ok, exactly why am I doing this? Punishing landscape, not another human being for 30 kms, but plenty of opportunities to rejoice in the here and now. Heavy cloud cover and totally off-road made this a much more enjoyable walk.

When I arrived in the plaza in Escatron with the ayuntamiento and the church, a woman can running outside, gave me many hugs and kisses, and we had a long camino chat. It was a great camino moment, since she's a good friend of Ender's too!

 

[peregrina2000]

In Quinto. Pension Plaza. Beautiful walk (I've got lots of notes), lots along the Evro. No traffic, no people, very nice. 37 km from Escatron but if you leave early and push at the beginning you will be fine. I left at 6, took two breaks, and was in the pension by 1:45.

Annie and I are starved for pilgrim company. We hear it's just up the road a bit in Zaragoza. Can't wait!

 

[VNwalking]

1:30?? Wow, Laurie, I don't think you're a mere mortal: you walk like the wind.
Buen continued Camino to you and Annie both...May you find good company (and good tapas) in Zaragosa!

 

[grayland]

Annie's pictures on Facebook are outstanding.

Ed

 

[SabsP]

Thanks Stephen! We will go check out the hospital de Santo Domingo. (I showed your picture to our Hostal owner and she told me where it was.).

We are in Caspe. 24 km from Fabara and a very nice place. We have had our main meal now and will go explore.

We've got reservations for the next two nights --not because of a bed rush but because there are so few places to stay!

Good walk today. All off road and quiet. I had some good conversations with a guy working in his field and a señora who had just picked a lot of cherries and insisted I take a bag full. No other pilgrims yet but maybe after Zaragoza!!

Enjoy and good luck also to Annie!
Zaragoza is wonderful. The albergue in Gallur is wonderful.
Tell me if you need a place in Alagon, just after Zaragoza. I had a whole appartment to myself for 15 € in 2013.

 

[anniethenurse]

Hello all,
I think you all should walk Ruta del Ebro.

Unfortunately I have got some blisters that keep me from walking Laurie's distances.


Still happy to be on Ruta del Ebro. An amazing route less walked. We have not seen any other pilgrims yet and we are two days from Zaragoza.

 

[peregrina2000]

From Quinto to Fuentes de Ebro to Zaragoza to Torres de Berellen. That means I've been walking 11 days now.

Seems like I've had a cloud over my head the last couple days. First, my beloved Salomons started to tear across the top. A woman from the ayuntamiento in Fuentes offered me a ride into Zaragoza so I could buy new boot. I came back on the bus and walked into Zaragoza, where bed bug control was the order of the day. Then just as I was finishing up with the bugs, I got a call from home saying our cc was compromised. Which means getting me a replacement in some small camino town somewhere. But hey I'm back walking and even though Annie left this camino, I had a really good day. Except for the total mess I had leaving Zarragoza with what turned out to be outdated GPS tracks. Nice route, friendly towns, Corpus Christi processions, and my first albergue since I started. About a week till Soria, where I will take a rest day.

Buen camino to all, Laurie.

 

[Castilian]

Seems like I've had a cloud over my head the last couple days.

I hope the sun bright for you as soon as possible. Best wishes!

 

[peregrina2000]

I hope the sun bright for you as soon as possible. Best wishes!

Thanks Castilian. Today was great!!

 

[SabsP]

It is a bit of a search out of Zaragoza!

So tomorrow normally the albergue in Gallur? Lovely hospis there.

There is a very good resto in Gallur, called El Colono that serves a very good menu del dia.

 

[OzAnnie]

Thanks Castilian. Today was great!!

That's the spirit Laurie.
A tough day on the Camino is usually more joyful than being at work.
Glad you had company trailblazing so far and all the best to Annie the nurse for her feet recovery.
Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm in Gallur on the Imperial Aragon Channel. Those last kms on asphalt were punishing, but the mudejar church in Alagon is gorgeous and there were some really fine parts along the Ebro.

In the albergue up by the old station and right on the Castellano-Aragones, to which I will switch tomorrow.

@SabineP ---wow oh wow. What a fabulous meal. Eggplant and red peppers for primero, sea bass in a tasty chutney sauce, and homemade flan. 10.5 €. And unlike many places with menu, the wine is not bad!!! Thanks so much for the recommendation because I would never have found it otherwise.

Tomorrow I start the Castellano-Aragones. I miss Annie but hope to meet some new people soon. Today I met a guy going the other way on the Camino Ignaciano. I told him he should turn around so we'd both have some company. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[alansykes]

Tomorrow you can have another decent menú del día in Borja's la Boveda del Mercado, bang in the centre of town. It was there that I got a taste for the far from poisonous Campo de Borja DO wine. A bit heavy but verywelcome after a morning being buffeted by the local cierzo wind.

 

[peregrina2000]

Keep those restaurant recommendations coming amigos!! Looks like tomorrow's meal is set.

I had some campo de borja at lunch today so I can be a repeat customer tomorrow.

 

[VNwalking]

No restaurant recommendations, but lots of well-wishing, Laurie.
It sounds fantastic, and I wish I could be in two places at once. I'd offer to be walking company in a heartbeat if I could.

 

[peregrina2000]

End of Ebro. Let the Castellano-Aragones begin!!! I'll start a new thread later today. So happy to have Alan's notes to help me out.

 

[mla1]

From Quinto to Fuentes de Ebro to Zaragoza to Torres de Berellen. That means I've been walking 11 days now.

Seems like I've had a cloud over my head the last couple days. First, my beloved Salomons started to tear across the top. A woman from the ayuntamiento in Fuentes offered me a ride into Zaragoza so I could buy new boot..

Oh no - your poor shoes!!!! Are the new ones ok? I think you had said before that you were going to try to get two caminos out of your Salamons - is that what happened?
Hope today was a better day!
ml

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi ML

I shouldn't have expected smother 1000 kms out of those Salomons. But I got a pair of low North Face Trekkers of some kind for 115€ in Barrabes in Zaragoza and feet are fine.

 

[mla1]

Darn. I was hoping to hear that one pair could last two caminos. I did end up buying a new pair for this spring. But I am starting to get a collection of heavily-used but not yet dead hiking shoes at home!
Glad your feet are okay.
I'm enjoying your posts.