LIVE from the Camino @Willdtrout on the Via Serrana- Nov. 2023

[juanjo_madrid]

Note from the Mods:

What follows is @willdtrout’s live account from the Via Serrana. Buen camino!

 

[Willdtrout]

After surviving the rain in Galicia I finished Camino del Norte in Santiago last Wednesday then did the train/bus to get to Gibraltar.

Spent a couple days in Gibraltar walking the rock, drying out, and exploring the area. Loved it there. Felt free not burning Schengen days on rest days so spent more time there then planned.

I’m considering the lighthouse at Europa point in Gibraltar as my starting point. My pilgrims mind thinks the light from here may guide me to Santiago. But this morning I packed up and headed to Parroquia Santiago Apostol in La Linea for the official start.

I’m sad the church was closed so I couldn’t get a stamp at the start. It seems they are only open in the evening? I was able to get one at the tourist office in San Roque.

The day went better than planned. The route was marked better than I hoped and GPS tracks I downloaded in google earth were mostly accurate. With a start in Gibraltar my day was 37 Km.

I’m in San Martin del Tesorillo after a mostly uneventful day. I did see a fox! And two deer. Beautiful sunny day, not to hot, but still after walking Galicia rain I lost my water calibration for drinking in warm weather so ran low on Agua.

Looking forward to the rest of the journey

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Sounds wonderful. I've heard that's a very beautiful Camino. How far are you going to walk? to Sevilla? Or....

 

[Willdtrout]

Sounds wonderful. I've heard that's a very beautiful Camino. How far are you going to walk? to Sevilla? Or....

Hoping all the way to Santiago and then Finisterra/Muxia. I’m flexible though. If I don’t finish this round I’ll come back later.

 

[peregrina2000]

The day went better than planned.

That’s always a great way to start a camino. Wishing you a wonderful walk and no problems with locked gates or high waters! Can’t wait to hear how it goes.

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, @Willdtrout. Hope you can let us know what happens when you get to the Cortijo Los Lirios (probably tomorrow) after San Pablo de Buceite. Hoping it looks more like the first picture than the second.

 

[MesaWalker]

Have a great walk! We started the Via Serrana two months ago and just finished in Muxia yesterday. We loved the Via Serrana.

 

[Willdtrout]

That’s always a great way to start a camino. Wishing you a wonderful walk and no problems with locked gates or high waters! Can’t wait to hear how it goes.

It was a good way to start camino

I read about the locked gate but didn’t see it on the trail. The river crossing was wet but I had no problem keeping my feet dry

 

[Willdtrout]

Buen camino, @Willdtrout. Hope you can let us know what happens when you get to the Cortijo Los Lirios (probably tomorrow) after San Pablo de Buceite. Hoping it looks more like the first picture than the second.
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I’ll let you know tomorrow

 

[Willdtrout]

Buen camino, @Willdtrout. Hope you can let us know what happens when you get to the Cortijo Los Lirios (probably tomorrow) after San Pablo de Buceite. Hoping it looks more like the first picture than the second.
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Today the gate is open

 

[MesaWalker]

This photo also jogs my memory. Two months ago this gate was closed but unlocked. We just opened it, went through, and reclosed it.

 

[peregrina2000]

Today the gate is open

Thanks for the picture, @Willdtrout. Hope you are enjoying your Via Serrana. Would love to hear any accommodation reports or just general posts describing your day. Looks like terrific weather!

So now we have three different experiences at the entrance to the Finca, all within the last year.

@Umwandert — closed and locked
@MesaWalker — closed and unlocked
@Willdtrout — open and unlocked.

I guess it’s the luck of the draw. Glad you had good luck!

I’ve sent a note to the association in Cádiz. I got their attention when I sent a link to the youtube of the Spanish peregrino who was told in San Pablo de Buceite to avoid the Finca at all costs. He walked along the RR tracks, which is a VERY foolish idea. I’ll report back if they are able to find out what’s going on. They are located in Cádiz, which is more than 100 km away, so it might not be easy.

For anyone who does find the gate locked, the Assoc. suggested going back to San Pablo and getting a taxi from there to a spot where the camino joins the road about 6 km before El Colmenar and then walking down. Next on the list would be to find a taxi company in the vicinity. There is a taxi in a town called Colmenar, but it is a different Colmenar in the province of Málaga. And I don’t find any for the Estación Gaucín either.

I think this is the spot to start walking again, though:

 

[Willdtrout]

Thanks for the picture, @Willdtrout. Hope you are enjoying your Via Serrana. Would love to hear any accommodation reports or just general posts describing your day. Looks like terrific weather!

So now we have three different experiences at the entrance to the Finca, all within the last year.

@Umwandert — closed and locked
@MesaWalker — closed and unlocked
@Willdtrout — open and unlocked.

I guess it’s the luck of the draw. Glad you had good luck!

I’ve sent a note to the association in Cádiz. I got their attention when I sent a link to the youtube of the Spanish peregrino who was told in San Pablo de Buceite to avoid the Finca at all costs. He walked along the RR tracks, which is a VERY foolish idea. I’ll report back if they are able to find out what’s going on. They are located in Cádiz, which is more than 100 km away, so it might not be easy.

For anyone who does find the gate locked, the Assoc. suggested going back to San Pablo and getting a taxi from there to a spot where the camino joins the road about 6 km before El Colmenar and then walking down. Next on the list would be to find a taxi company in the vicinity. There is a taxi in a town called Colmenar, but it is a different Colmenar in the province of Málaga. And I don’t find any for the Estación Gaucín either.

I think this is the spot to start walking again, though:

View attachment 160107

I wasn’t aware of the potential problem if it was locked! Ignorance is bliss sometimes.

Today there were people working on the property including a vehicle at the big building just above the gate and someone clearing brush up the mountain.

It crossed my mind that maybe it was open just to allow easier access to the workers.

Also want to say that I really enjoyed the hike up the mountains from the finca. Was a beautiful day with tremendous views. Would be a shame to miss it

 

[Willdtrout]

I’ve been walking Via Serrana for three days now and after following recommended stages just arrived in El Colmenar.

The weather has been incredibly beautiful with few clouds and temps on the low twenties C or mid seventies F. Very few clouds very little wind.

First day walking wasn’t very enjoyable. Not nice getting out of La Linea with a lot of garbage on roads and when I did get to the countryside the road was fenced in on both sides with industrial fence. Felt I was in camino prison but that may have just been the mood o was in. It got better further I went. Enjoyed the ‘tortuga lago’ (livestock pond filled with turtles) and a section that went thru some real forest where I saw the fox and some deer. Spent the first night in San Martin de Tesorillo in a pretty nice room at Hostal Sabana for €55. I stocked up at the supermarket there and didn’t eat out.

Day two was to Jimena de La Frontera. I enjoyed this walking much more as it’s always fun to climb to the windmills and after dropping back went thru many orchards. One section left the road onto an overgrown track that goes over the hill to Los Angeles. Would be a fun walk if it wasn’t so overgrown but as it is it’s tough walking through the pokey stuff. If I did it again I may stay on the road. Would have kept me from tearing a hole in my shirt and another on my pants. I stayed at Casa Henrietta which is a beautiful hotel. Little spendy at €60 though. I ate at the highly rated El Paseo near the clock tower. As a vegetarian I loved that there were many options. This town isn’t officially part of the route but I think it should be for food and accommodation choices and the chance to explore the castle.

I really enjoyed walking today as the scenery got much better. Easy morning to San Pueblo de Buceite and a chance to stop for tea and tostada then follow the road to Cortijo Los Lirios. Apparently the gate here is sometimes locked and pilgrims need to find an alternate route. I don’t know much about this but peregrina2000 is very knowledgeable about it.

For me the gate was open and I’m thankful for that because I really enjoyed the climb and the views along it. If it was closed I probably would have climbed over based on reports of other locked gates on this route but that would have been ill advised based on new info from peregrina2000.

The last 5 Km is all downhill on a light traffic road. A cut off on dirt tracks is described but I missed the turn so just walked pavement to town.

I’m in El Colmenar now staying at Las Buitreras. A nice hotel for €46. There is a restaurant here but seems to be closed for the season so I’ll venture back into town later to hopefully find a vegetarian option.

My impression of this camino is that I love it. It’s fun being on a lesser known route. I’m happy that the route is fairly well marked and I now trust the gps tracks I downloaded. I asked tonight’s hotel guy about pilgrims here. He said the last ones were a month or two ago and not many options in this town that is a good stage stop so that could be it. I haven’t met any but last night there were some walkers in Casa Henrietta, I asked if they were pilgrims and she laughed and said no. They were hiking one of the GR routes. So yes, I love it, and I’m excited because it seems tomorrow I start with the really good stuff.

It’s a little tough finding stamps but there are tourist offices and museums that have them. The small bar I stopped at in Buceite this morning surprised me with one and it’s one of my favorites…. A lady with an Afro that matches a painting on their wall.

I kind of don’t want to talk about this Camino because I want to be selfish and keep it special. But I’m also thinking it should be walked more. Maybe it would be good for the towns on the route

One more thing to add… my weather has been dry and beautiful but even so sections of the trail show big wet spots with some mud. Other reports I’ve read says this can be a problem but is manageable. Judging by what I’ve seen I think rain would potentially makes this a very different experience

 

[C clearly]

If it was closed I probably would have climbed over based on reports of other locked gates on this route but that would have been ill advised based on new info from peregrina2000.

Is there new info, or was she just asking?

 

[jungleboy]

I ate at the highly rated El Paseo near the clock tower. As a vegetarian I loved that there were many options.

Me too! I ate there twice IIRC.

My impression of this camino is that I love it.

Fantastic, and the good news is the best is yet to come. I hope you continue to have good weather in the next few days so you can enjoy the scenery. Today’s gorge is really spectacular!

 

[peregrina2000]

After a false start or two, I think I have successfully merged @Willdtrout’s Via Serrana threads (after asking for permission). I initially merged them with @alansykes’ Serrana threads, so if anyone notes something out of whack, please let me know and I’ll try to correct it.

Is there new info, or was she just asking?

I have no new info, I think @Willdtrout was referring to my post 12 above.

 

[Willdtrout]

Via Serrana Update-

El Colmenar-Cueva del Gato-Ronda-Setanil de las Bodegas-Coripe

Still enjoying this camino. Still having beautiful weather. I’ve had minor difficulties with trail markings and gps track but not to bad.

Last I wrote I was in El Colmenar for the night. Something changed there but don’t know why. When I went out for dinner everything was closed. Not just for siesta but for the night. No worries though. Ventured out the next morning and had a beautiful walk through through the canyon, up the mountains to La Canada de Real Tesoro (beautiful day walking ) I planned on lunch in Canada but all restaurants and bars were close. No worries, food in my pack. Continued on to Jimera de Libar (doubling association stages) planning to spend the night. I called the hotel jungleboy stayed at but it was closed, called all casa Rurals all were closed, called the Campground closed. Frustrated I headed out thinking this may be a camping night but went to Benaojan hoping to find a hotel. But everything was closed. All hotels all bars all restaurants. I’m seeing a theme. Everything is closed. I don’t know Spanish but a local guided me to Eco Hotel Cueva del Gato. I called and they had a room (English speaking host). It was expensive at €115 but nice. It was a long almost 40km day for me so I was happy to take it. I talked to the hostess about why everything was closed and she didn’t know. Just said that it’s late in the season and things close. Jungle boy was here last year though, later in the season and he found a hotel so not sure was up.

I need to report that the walk from Jimera to Benajoan was more beautiful walking. An easy trail with moderate up and down going through a canyon with a pretty river and following above the RR track. I really enjoyed this stretch and with the morning start in the canyon was an epic beautiful day

Cueva el Gato was about 1.5 Km easy walking off the camino route but for me at least a worthy diversion. Maybe it can be included as a stage stop option? Oh…. I didn’t visit the cat cave because you need a guide to actually go inside.

I hiked 2.5 stages in one day so got a late start the next morning and a short 10km day to Ronda. Tough 10k though with a lot of up down. But Ronda was a beautiful town and I hiked another 14k exploring and going down to the bridge viewpoint. The short route down was closed for construction so had to take the long. Ronda is a bigger town than I expected and there’s a lot to see. Even found really good vegetarian food at a tapas bar I forget the name of. Stayed at El Colon Hotel which was basic but ok. Got upgraded to a double room and paid €70.

I will say the hostess at El Colon was great. I asked for a Peregrino stamp and she didn’t understand what it was for. I translated I would carry it to Santiago and show it to the Peregrino office as proof I was there. She seemed excited about this which was fun after so much time on the popular routes where I’m just another Peregrino. The few conversations I’ve had about this on Via Serrana have been special like this.

The next day was from Ronda to Setenil de las Bodegas. I I enjoyed the day though I had some adventures. Getting out of Ronda was straight forward and well marked though the markings didn’t follow the gps tracks. Eventually they merged though but about 5k out there were a couple of key turns that weren’t marked. Without the gps tracks would have missed it for sure. Eventually started seeing Arrows again but after I crossed a main road near a lookout, following yellow arrows onto a side road, I knew I was going off gps track but didn’t worry because the same happened earlier. I don’t know if I missed an arrow at a turn or it just wasn’t there but I didn’t see another marker all day. I wasn’t worried because I could see the route on my gps track and honestly, the walking was beautiful and I was enjoying it. I was on a decent road but after going through a small cluster of houses it turned to dirt. Not long after I came to a T. Smart thing would have been to turn left and get back on track but looking ahead to the road to the right it looked like more beautiful walking on farm roads. I went right. Beautiful walking for a few Km but eventually ended at a fence. I played rebel and jumped the fence then the road petered out for good at an old farmhouse and I was forced left and headed for the line of the gps track I could see. I didn’t go that way because google showed a different way so I took backroads to Setenil and made it ok. Honestly it was a beautiful walk, probably better than the official route, but I felt bad for jumping the fence.

Setenil is beautiful and I enjoyed walking around town even though the day tour crowds were there in quantity. Stayed at El Almendral because it seemed to be the only open hotel, think it was €46? Many restaurants in town but not many veggie options.

Today I doubled stages again and walked Setenil de las Bodegas-Coripe. Ended up being about 45 Km with some wandering around Olvera. The route to Olvera was also lacking in markings but I made due with gps tracks. At one point I was sure I was off course just walking tractor tracks through an olive grove but gps said I was on track so I pushed on and was ok. Oh… setenil is off the main route so this section is the off route stuff to get from Setenil back to the main route. After getting back on route it was all good.

Olvera was a nice town on a hill. I detoured 1-2km up to the big cathedral and castle on the hill. Had lunch then ventured to see them. They charged an entrance fee for both though so I skipped and got back to walking. I backtracked to the official route, stopped for an excellent Tarta, then dropped down to the RR route. This was more beautiful walking! Just following an old rr grade that was never used for a railroad. The walking easy, slight down grade, no need to worry about markings (though I saw a few) or gps tracks cuz you just stay on the railway grade. It was about 20 Km like this. One old station had a small restaurant where you could get water and a bocadillo. After the last tunnel Estacion de Coribe sneaks up on you. It was bustling with Sunday people who had rented bikes to ride the grade then finished at the restaurant there. I didn’t check but it looked nice and it is also reported to be a hotel. Could be a nice place to stay. As you come out of the tunnel there’s a road to the right (before you reach the Estacion) and a Via Serrana tile marker guiding you right. From here you follow the road on a 3 Km well marked climb to Coribe. I am at Pension Coribe-Bar Pastor and have a good room with shared bath for €30

These have been very beautiful days walking. Loving the scenery, the old towns, the walking and not much of that on roads. And beautiful weather.

The days are good

 

[Willdtrout]

I was very blessed to be able to walk into Santiago on Christmas morning (2023).

Via Serrana - Via de La Plata - Via Sanabria

Such an incredible Camino. Blessed and so fortunate to have the time to do this

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I was very blessed to be able to walk into Santiago on Christmas morning (2023).

Via Serrana - Via de La Plata - Via Sanabria

Such an incredible Camino. Blessed and so fortunate to have the time to do this

Congratulations on a wonderful journey!

 

[MesaWalker]

What a camino! Did you go on to the coast?

 

[Willdtrout]

What a camino! Did you go on to the coast?

Si, walked Santiago-Finisterra-Muxia and back to Santiago. Walked back into Santiago yesterday

 

[MesaWalker]

Congrats! How was the weather?

 

[peregrina2000]

Si, walked Santiago-Finisterra-Muxia and back to Santiago. Walked back into Santiago yesterday

Unless you have yet another camino in mind from here, I imagine you are well and truly done with your camino. Norte-Serrana-Vdlp-Fisterre/Muxia, what a journey. I can imagine that today is a hard day of adjustment, @Willdtrout. Many thanks for sharing it with us and especially for your Serrana tips. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Willdtrout]

Congrats! How was the weather?

I’m on the Portugese coastal now. I feel pretty fortunate with the weather. Some rain but not too bad. Had one tremendous storm day with big wind and rain walking Olveiroa to Negreira but luckily the clothes I wore stayed drier than the clothes in my pack. Here on the portugese it’s been a good mix with mostly good weather.

Yesterday was beautiful but frost on the windshields in the morning

 

[Willdtrout]

Unless you have yet another camino in mind from here, I imagine you are well and truly done with your camino. Norte-Serrana-Vdlp-Fisterre/Muxia, what a journey. I can imagine that today is a hard day of adjustment, @Willdtrout. Many thanks for sharing it with us and especially for your Serrana tips. Buen camino, Laurie

I’m feeling strong and have some freedom left! On the Portugese coastal now and not done walking yet

 

[MesaWalker]

What a fantastic journey you've had and are having. Your photos are magnificent and bring back great memories of the Via Serrana. Buen camino!