• PLEASE NOTE: Please think twice before you travel to Spain now. More here.

Search over 55.000 Camino Questions

A donation to the forum removes ads for you, and supports Ivar in his work running it


Advertisement

On this date in October...

C clearly

Moderator
Staff member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016), VDLP (2017), Mozarabe (2018), Vasco/Bayona (2019)
Sorry, can't seem to get rid of the full size.
I haven't played around much with this, but usually find that when I insert an image, I can click once on the full size version in the text of my post, and delete it. That leaves the thumbnail image.
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
I can only get it to work if I use "attach file". I was hoping to bypass this option as I personally do not really like the gray box with text at the bottom of the thumbnails. I do realize they disappear when you click on it for full view.
Well, with the new upgrade I actually have no idea whether I am putting photos in correctly. I am hoping that someone tells me if they are showing up out-sized or missing. [EDIT: Never mind, I think I have it figured out now.:)]

But, on to the day...both CF


10/17/2012: Terradillos de los Templarios to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

Out @ 7:15 w/ rain gear on, again! Hvst precip yet. Leaving town with headlamp on, caught the searchlight eyes of the domestic predator class: cats & dogs. Cats eyes dimmed & returned w/ slo-mo blinks; dogs turned aside and barked.

Outside of town, my high beam caught collections of waste wood, tree trunks, cockleburs & thistles painting grotesque silhouettes on straw and soil behind.

Surprised a few deer and ranging dogs as well. By Providence, hit a small café/panaderia in Moratinos – just opening. Cafe con leche & croissant – aah! Then, back into wind & rain.

Walked thru steady rain for rest of day; calling it quits at Calzadilla de los Hermanillos – a total of just shy of 27 k by 1:15. Not bad for a full “rain-gear” day.

Got to town, checked in @ the municipal, went shopping, cooked w/ the Malaysian gals (Mei-Mei & Agnes), ate & then took a 2 hr nap.

Learned how to play “Hello, Jack!” (kinda) courtesy of Orestes (Auz) & Christina (Malta) then cooking support while the hospitalero fired up a defective wood stove & kept trying to get it to work.

In the midst of this circus, I had to activate my phone to help a young peregrine call yesterday’s albergue to see if they had found his credit card. (They had…) No offer to pay for the call, BTW. [sigh]

Now just wrapping up these notes while conversation winds down. Sam (Auz) brought sweets! Gotta run!“


10/17/2020:
Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to Mansilla de las Mulas

“The weather turned overnight after a brief rain about 2 am.

Dawn was weak and most of the walk presented land of subdued earth tones under
a sky of mottled gray flannel. The breeze was a hair shy of “brisk” and the
occasional rain bore waves of pin-prick droplets that stung exposed skin and raised a hiss upon
weatherproofing. Temps are down 25 degrees from yesterday’s highs, minimum.

Shot of the old Roman road west of Hermanillos when a short glimpse of sun
told me it was safe to take out the phone.

“Everybody” was going to Villarente so I stopped short in Mansilla de Las Mulas. There’s maybe 60 beds over there and no laundry facilities so chanced it here.

No way to do laundry here either really as it seems, so tomorrow in Leon will be a hunt for a
way to get that done. May have to suffer the comforts of a hotel and the expense of their laundry.

As I write, post-showering, the wind has begun to roar and the rain is washing walls and streets with a vigor that overflows the storm drains just a minute after beginning.”
 

Attachments

  • 1602947225179.png
    1602947225179.png
    767.4 KB · Views: 81
  • 1602947324411.png
    1602947324411.png
    837.7 KB · Views: 30
Last edited:

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-17-18 Camino Frances Carrion de Los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios

I usually carry two 500 ml bottles with me on the Camino, but in sections like today (and SJPdP to Roncesvalles) I carry one more because of long stretches with no facilities. I do not have any special bottles I bring. I simply use soda/cola bottles. I drink the contents, give them a rinse and they find new life as a Camino water bottle for me, and their life ends in Santiago in a recycling bin. I find the soda/cola bottles to be a bit sturdier/thicker with more substantial caps that seal better. They ride in pockets on my pack and sometimes in a cargo pocket of my shorts.
Today's walk was in a heavy fog for much of it. Weather was cool, and no rain. Arrived at Terradillos and stayed at the albergue Los Templarios, on the left just before you reach the village. Clean and modern. Big outside yard in back to wash laundry and hang clothes. Has a good bar and I partook in a couple of cold beers. Later a few of us had dinner at the albergue. Nice, typical pilgrim three course, wine and bread.
 
Last edited:

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
Again, CF both times...

10/18/2012: Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to Mansilla de las Mulas

Back out @ 8:45 into a day wetter than yesterday. Nothing to do but just walk the old Roman road as fast as possible. Knocked out the 15 mi in 5 hrs w/o mishap.

The cold & exertion have taken a toll. Despite frenzied eating the last few days, my ‘love handles’ are just about gone as well as the tummy. Have broken into emergency stores of chocolate & nuts. Need to find some fruit next. I’m likely to eat out tonight then turn in asap.



10/18/2017: Villarente to Leon

“A rough beast slouched into Leon…

...and got a decent rate at the Parador....better rate than a Holiday Inn Express so we feel smarter already. (And I really neede the sleep available in a single…) As the hotel is closing within weeks for restoration of 2 years or more, I figured why not? Also, there were a couple of suitable laundromats nearby...and a fatty and proteinaceous breakfast thrown in. (The typical absence of the latter probably deserves its own post.)

Temperatures are up a bit. The sky lowered greatly. So much so that utility and radio towers above Leon barely sprouted from their concrete roots before ghosting into the raw wool of descending clouds.


During a café con leche stop, many of the group staying in Mansilla last night were overheard this morning discussing the need to bus ahead, because "Well, it's raining." I diplomatically kept silent while wondering the number of weeks they will require to cross Galicia.”
 

Attachments

  • 1603035087531.png
    1603035087531.png
    721.9 KB · Views: 20
  • 1603035169131.png
    1603035169131.png
    1 MB · Views: 27

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-18-18 Camino Frances Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino

Another nice weather day. Had late breakfast in Sahagun. Looking back not sure why I decided to stay in Bercianos del Real Camino instead of walking a few extra kilometres to El Burgo Ranero? I can only think it was because there was a few other pilgrims I had met who also decided to stay there and since I had never stayed there before it would be a new experience. Stayed at the parroquial. I remember it was off the Camino a bit, was donativo and we had a communal dinner that night put on by the albergue. I think there was guitar playing and singing too, if memory serves me. All in all a nice albergue experience.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
@Latecomer, I'd never seen your two "lady friends" on my four times visiting in Santiago. I thought these two gals were the only ones. Possibly there are even others around the city.
View attachment 85204View attachment 85204
Sorry, can't seem to get rid of the full size.🤔View attachment 85204
@Camino Chrissy, you may already know this, but for those who don’t, these statues have a lot of history behind them. I am pasting in a post I made in 2013..

I'm sure that anyone who has arrived in Santiago has seen the brightly colored statue of the two women in the Alameda park at the end of the old quarter. I had never known that this statue represents two real people, sisters who lived in Santiago for years and who took a stroll in the park at 2 pm sharp every day. The picture here actually looks like the statue: http://elpais.com/diario/2008/04/17/gal ... 50215.html

Even more fascinating, and tragic, is the fact that these two sisters had three brothers who were members of the anarchist labor union the CNT. One of the brothers was killed by the Fascist forces, and two managed to escape. And that's when the sisters' nightmare began, because the Fascists kept coming back to the home to get the family to confess to the brothers' whereabouts and the sisters were treated very poorly -- sent naked through the streets, and according to this article, perhaps even tortured and/or raped. This treatment went on through the 40s after Franco won the war, but then the brothers were captured and the sisters left alone. But the treatment had left its mark, making them perhaps mentally unbalanced. And from then on, they took to dressing up in a slightly outrageous way, parading through the park, and perhaps symbolized a bit of rebellion against the status quo. They died in the 1980s.

How interesting. The article has more detail, but this is the gist of it. Buen camino, Laurie
 

roving_rufus

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2013-2015) Portugues (2017-2019) Via Francigena (2018-??) Camino from Ireland (2020-??)
19th October 2015 - Najera to Ciruena
So I picked up were I left on in the January in Najera - with a train and bus under my belt that morning I decided not to even stop for coffee but headed straight out of town- I was very keen to get walking! Turns out I don't have a single photo of the day it was raining so hard. Walking into Ciruena through rain and heavy mist the housing development seemed creepy with all its empty houses and for sale signs, but was glad to reach my destination in the old part of the village
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
On the CF...

10/19/2012: Mansilla de las Mulas to León

My notes record little more than a pleasant walk and a distinctly unpleasant hospitalero at the Benedictine convent. All I had to do was show up and he was angry with me. No clue to the problem as I generally keep to myself and follow the rules as posted….as well as those that are not but are just common courtesy.

I was charmed by the segregation of sexes in the albergue. I had not seen that since college.

Assuming that I was capable of upsetting the mental equilibrium of those about me, just by breathing, I opted to dine alone at a small Italian place. The pizza (Napoli) was AMAZING – 3 cheeses, mushrooms, & chorizo on a light, thin crust.

It occurred to me as I reviewed photos..... wow, do I miss window-sampling the Spanish shops….


10/19/2017: León to Hospital de Orbigo

My notes indicate a totally enjoyable and mindless day free of but the most fleeting interaction with other peregrinos until arrival at the most wonderful Albergue San Miguel.

It is a standout – very warm reception, extremely comfortable beds, and the room and supplies to do whatever suits you. (I observed a few talented artists capturing the last few days’ memories on canvas and sketch pads between doing my laundry and running the usual errands.)

A snap of Hospital de Orbigo around 9:30 PM.

The only other soul I found while meandering was a young man walking his new Great Pyrenees pup. The quiet solitude set me aright to find my bunk and deep hibernation…. until the inevitable music of the “Bag Rustle Rag” drew me back into pilgrim world.
 

Attachments

  • 1603120409253.png
    1603120409253.png
    909.7 KB · Views: 17
  • 1603120597327.png
    1603120597327.png
    975.3 KB · Views: 14

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-19-18 Camino Frances (Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mullas)

Another nice weather day. Flat terrain. Easy walking. Stayed at the municipal at Mansilla de las Mullas. Nice that it is on the main drag, and after doing my albergue post arrival routine I was able to get a cold beer at one of the nearby bars, drink it outside at one of the little plastic tables and soak in the sun and relax. I remember they gave me some gratis pintxos (or tapas). Some olives and mussels on the half shell. Nice.
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
On the CF...

10/19/2017: León to Hospital de Orbigo

My notes indicate a totally enjoyable and mindless day free of but the most fleeting interaction with other peregrinos until arrival at the most wonderful Albergue San Miguel.

It is a standout – very warm reception, extremely comfortable beds, and the room and supplies to do whatever suits you. (I observed a few talented artists capturing the last few days’ memories on canvas and sketch pads between doing my laundry and running the usual errands.)

A snap of Hospital de Orbigo around 9:30 PM.

The only other soul I found while meandering was a young man walking his new Great Pyrenees pup. The quiet solitude set me aright to find my bunk and deep hibernation…. until the inevitable music of the “Bag Rustle Rag” drew me back into pilgrim world.
Hospital is another one of my favorite little towns on the Frances and I really like the albergue San Miguel. Has a great vibe to it.
 

alansykes

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
10th century Almohad entrance to Ágreda on the Camino Castellano-Aragonés, 2019.

Sigüenza Castle on the Ruta de la Lana, 2018.

Nearing Ronda on the Vía Serrana, 2017.

La Calahorra on the Camino Mozárabe, 2016.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0721.jpg
    DSC_0721.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 12
  • DSC_0077.jpg
    DSC_0077.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 8
  • IMG_20171021_085903.jpg
    IMG_20171021_085903.jpg
    547 KB · Views: 7
  • DSC_0718.jpg
    DSC_0718.jpg
    703.7 KB · Views: 11
Last edited:

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10/20/2012: León to Hospital de Orbigo

My notes for the day were a bit of a “mini-rant” which suggests some items were getting on my nerves. The top two indicate my frame of mind, without making me out to be too petty:

“The Unbearable Absence of Butter” (seriously, I could not find it on any table in 2012 after SJPP until I got to San Martin in SdC. I think I was also suffering “Peach Jelly Fatigue”.)

“Do you really have to kill someone to get a green veg w/ dinner?”

On the “green option” in Brierley, west of Leon, this is where I thought “Yep, just about done with the Meseta.”


10/20/2017: Hospital de Orbigo to Santa Catalina de Montoza

“A day without dawn” sounds melodramatic……but that is pretty much the way it was until Astorga.

The view of the landscape was through a lens of skim milk as temps hovered at the dew point with no wind to disturb the balance between temp and humidity.

The fog was so still that the act of walking through it left a wake of transparency for 10 meters before closing silently again behind the pilgrim. Never seen the effect before. Yet, it neither wetted nor chilled, excellent for walking.

The most open view of the morning as one left the Meseta behind and climbed into piney scrub.
 

Attachments

  • 1603205625075.png
    1603205625075.png
    733.6 KB · Views: 9
  • 1603205701560.png
    1603205701560.png
    706.3 KB · Views: 10

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-20-18 Camino Frances (Mansilla de las Mullas to Leon)

Nice walk to Leon, but do remember a different route into the town. Different than when I had walked there before. There was a detour at one point at the edge of town and was redirected from what I remember to less developed route.
I had initially intended to treat myself to a hotel or pensiones in Leon, but this day was a Saturday and the weather was nice and Leon was quite crowded. I had no reservations and everything was completo. My back-up plan was to just walk a little further to La Virgen del Camino and stay in the albergue there, but was told by another pilgrim with the same plan that the tourism office had told them that the albergue in La Virgen was closed already for the season. The tourism office is right there in the plaza in front of the cathedral. Very helpful place. So we all decided to just stay in Leon at the big albergue run by the Benetictine sisters, about a ten minute walk away. Had a cold beer and a meal at one of the nearby bar/cafe. I believe there are a few near the albergue. Also went to a supermercado for snacks etc.
 

roving_rufus

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2013-2015) Portugues (2017-2019) Via Francigena (2018-??) Camino from Ireland (2020-??)
Wednesday 21st October 2015 -Viloria de la Rioja to Villafrance Montes de Oca - A grey, mizzlely day of which I have little memory and even my journal has little detail- but I remember singing "Follow the Yellow brick road" due to "yellow" coloured gravel had just been added to a track after Belorado - thankfully that day no pilgrims were close enough to hear me sing as I walked along...

IMAG0737.jpg
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10/21/2012: Hospital de Orbigo to Castrillo de los Polvazares

“On up the road to Castrillo de los Polvazares to finish the day’s walk. After intervention of a knowledgeable Swedish/Italian transplant (Martina), I am the sole occupant of the municipal albergue.

Now - - starting @ 3:30, I am ensconced at Meson La Magdalena eating an insanely huge meal. (Los Maragatos kitchen motto seems to be: “There is no such thing as too much.”)

Surrounded by about ½ of Astorga, I think. Half the car park outside of town was full at 2 & a steady stream of folks keep coming in.

My first experience of “Hierbas” - - to settle the meal, you know - - worked like a charm. Quite reminiscent of ‘Unicum’ in Hungary.



10/21/2017: Santa Catalina de Montoza to Foncebadon

I just needed a short day, so yeah, Foncebadon is where I stopped. My gut told me to walk into ‘El Trasgu’. Intuition is not a personal strong point but here it was spot on.

A nice gentleman asks at the ‘mercado’ counter as he rang up my items. “Would you like a room? [Yes!] “Excellent! And might we have your laundry to wash?” [I don’t think he was being insulting, just possessed of a functioning nose. So, also “Yes”.]

Cozy room and one of the best ‘Lentejas’ I have ever had. Oh, and they had this inspirational poster near the bar…”Amen!”
 

Attachments

  • 1603296614050.png
    1603296614050.png
    829.6 KB · Views: 14
  • 1603296676905.png
    1603296676905.png
    761.4 KB · Views: 16

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-21-18 Camino Frances (Leon to San Martin del Camino)

I have walked both routes out of Leon. I do not mind walking next to the highway, so today decided to walk to San Martin. Nice weather. Easy walk. I do vaguely remember getting an early breakfast in Leon on my way out. By breakfast I mean the typical toast with jam, juice and a coffee. Not a proper breakfast per se.
I did consider walking all the way to Hospita de Orbigo as it is not that much further and the weather was nice. Not to mention it has good albergues and shops, but I again saw familiar faces stopping at San Martin stopping at the municipal and decided that was where I would dismount and drop my ruck. I think I made the right choice because we had a wonderful communal meal put on by the albergue and there was plenty of wine and conversation. The hospitalero was a really cool guy. So hospitable and actually went so out of his way at times. As it got very cold once the sun went down, he got a blazing fire going in the fireplace in the common area and we all sat around soaking up the warmth and chatting until lights out. Very memorable.
Between Leon and San Martin there's a small village called San Miguel. This gentleman had a table set out in front of his home with water, biscuits and sweets for passing pilgrims. He even has his own sello/stamp for the credentials and a book you can sign. The sello has his name and address on it and when I arrived in Santiago I mailed him a postcard expressing gratitude.
IMG_20181021_120708015_HDR.jpg
 
Last edited:

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
Because most days are like every other day these days I missed posting here on my start date of my Camino Catalan. Day 3 was on the 21st and I was approaching Monserrat when I took this picture.
View attachment 85706
Rick, I enjoyed our visit on the morning of your first "day one" on the Catalan when we happened to be in Brcelona at the sme time...a bit of kismet perhaps!
 

roving_rufus

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2013-2015) Portugues (2017-2019) Via Francigena (2018-??) Camino from Ireland (2020-??)
Thursday 21st October 2015- CF Villafranca Montes de Oca to Cardenuela de Riopico
Lovely walk with the trees having their autumn leaves on display, and a good chunk of off-road walking. Just a slightly worrisome encounter with a huge bull on the path in a section of woods...but passed without incident (livestock can be so unpredictable). With San Juan de Ortega being the coffee stop for the morning as it was a cool autumn morning and definitely needed a cafe con leche to warm up.

IMAG0747.jpg
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10/22/2012: Castrillo de los Polvazares to Acebo

I consider myself a reasonably experienced climber/walker of every terrain. HOWEVER! From Cruz de Ferro down to Acebo was the WORST 8 km or so that I can remember walking in my life – ever.

My pleasant memory (aside from being alive) at Acebo? Hearing a baby’s sneeze and a gust of warm, moist air at my elbow while I nursed a beer.

I had not noticed a hedgehog, nestled in an old work glove, sleeping comfortably….on the bar at my elbow. (Yes, I was that tired.)

While reaching for my camera, the barman said something to the effect of “No, he won’t like it!”


10/22/2017: Foncebadon to Ponferrada

You know you have been on the CF too many times when, as you are taking a picture of this charming village of Riego de Ambros, you hear “Where will we find a trash bin around here?”

And, you reply with supreme equanimity (not a trace of smugness, I assure you)… “Down about 100 meters, on the left, in front of the church. We will walk right by it.”

The looks returned are beyond my ability to describe. The reactions upon finding me correct? “Let’s get away from this guy….quietly..”
 

Attachments

  • 1603375392972.png
    1603375392972.png
    768.5 KB · Views: 8
  • 1603375487595.png
    1603375487595.png
    1 MB · Views: 8

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-22-18 Camino Frances (San Martin del Camino to Astorga)

A relatively short walking day. Still maintaining beautiful weather. Stopped in Hospital de Orbigo for coffee and food. Again, a great little town on the Frances. I love how the town just abruptly ends on the way out, back into rural. I took the more natural route to the right. Got into Astorga and stayed in the big albergue near the cathedral. Albergue San Javier. Relaxed atmosphere, really cool hospitalero and a big common area you can hang out in with a sofa. There was an American priest walking the Camino who had also stopped there. He said he would be holding services upstairs in the albergue later and asked me if I would read one of the scriptures and I said of course I would (father, if you are reading this I was the guy that did the first reading....I believe you had it on a smart tablet or similar). It reminded me of years ago when I was in the army and we were doing an overseas thing. Had a Catholic chaplain who held Sunday services and I frequently found myself doing readings in front of a company sized attendance of soldiers. I still have the missal the chaplain gave me to do the readings from.
Of course I bought some of the delicious chocolate they have there. Nice plaza, nice cathedral. Good place to enjoy a cold beer.
 
Last edited:

linkster

Nunca dejes de creer!
Camino(s) past & future
CF (17) Sarria - Portomarín
CF (17) SJPdP - SdC
CF (18) SJPdP - Fisterra
CP (19) Porto - Muxia
@RJM I stayed at Albergue San Javier in Astorga on the Camino Francés on 10.23.18, and went to mass in the albergue. It was a surreal experience for me. The mass was held in a store room behind the couches. There were bikes hanging on the wall, boxes, etc. The priest was dressed in old pilgrim attire with a salty beard. He had a little travel chalice and paten. He also had an iPad that he used during the mass. There were only 3 of us in attendance (younger Italian guy, a woman from ???, and myself American) sitting on folding chairs, and I think some boxes that served as a make shift altar. There was no pomp or circumstance ... it was just the 4 of us in a simple yet chaotic setting. 🙏 👣:D:cool:
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
@RJM I stayed at Albergue San Javier in Astorga on the Camino Francés on 10.23.18, and went to mass in the albergue. It was a surreal experience for me. The mass was held in a store room behind the couches. There were bikes hanging on the wall, boxes, etc. The priest was dressed in old pilgrim attire with a salty beard. He had a little travel chalice and paten. He also had an iPad that he used during the mass. There were only 3 of us in attendance (younger Italian guy, a woman from ???, and myself American) sitting on folding chairs, and I think some boxes that served as a make shift altar. There was no pomp or circumstance ... it was just the 4 of us in a simple yet chaotic setting. 🙏 👣:D:cool:
Yup, that is the same padre and that is where we had the makeshift mass the day before. In that store room. There were maybe 7-10 (different nationalities and languages) in attendance if memory serves. Yes, it was surreal. I do recall having a long conversation with the padre afterwards and do remember him saying he was not walking the next day. I believe he may have told me he left the corporate world to become a priest.
The whole thing was very cool. So unique.
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10/23/2012: Acebo to Ponferrada

It was an enjoyable meander down to Ponferrada. Just short of town, the cherry orchard off to the right slowed me down so that I could study the way the grower was pruning his trees to maintain shape and ‘pickability’ on large-trunked trees. (This proved valuable to me as I was sold trees mis-labeled for height potential six years before. The style of this unknown genius has kept my trees productive and attractive to this date. “Experts” had advised ripping them out and replacing as the only option.)

No, I did not take a picture of the trees as the pattern would make no sense to anyone else - - they just say “Trees?” So instead, a view of the typical “lens magnet” in Ponferrada.

San Nicolas de Flue is a fine albergue and the hospitaleros were great. They were also enjoying minimal demands on their time. Very few pilgrims that night.


10/23/2017: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

“Of the many Villefranca on the Way, this is (imho), the best. The Bierzo region is a few days of pleasant walking ONCE getting off the pavement. That hard surface killed me today.

The intent had been to reach Pereje, another 6 km on. Between sudden fatigue a km out and meeting up a pilg in distress, we accommodated body and soul requirements in a jewel of an albergue.
[Albergue de la Piedra] Will head out shortly to get meds for the ailing pilg.

A cultural note…the bars are generally closed at the moment…outside of ‘siesta’ hours?!


Give us credit for some perspective; this is not a tragedy.

It is, however, a catastrophe.”
 

Attachments

  • 1603461724132.png
    1603461724132.png
    841.2 KB · Views: 4
  • 1603461813138.png
    1603461813138.png
    1 MB · Views: 5

roving_rufus

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2013-2015) Portugues (2017-2019) Via Francigena (2018-??) Camino from Ireland (2020-??)
Friday 23rd October 2015 - Cardenuela de Riopica to Tarjados (via Burgos!)
After a great night's sleep (there were just four of us and no snorers) Nearly missed the turn for the alternative route in Burgos with all the painted over arrows - but immediately realised my mistake and backtracked 50m ... Enjoyed the walk in the park by the river from more the more wild-style park to more formal with its straight paths and lines of trees nearing the city centre. Took a good few hours in Burgos for coffee and cake, then lunch and exploring, including visiting the cathedral before departing. It was late afternoon - and we started to regret leaving Burgos...tackling the path through roadbuilding was not encourging. However we landed at La Fabrica, (me and the girl I had walked with that day) were offered the option of a twin room rather than the dorm which we took and had the most fabulous shower, washing away all the dust and dirt from crossing the roadworks...and knew that in the morning we had no city walking to do!
IMAG0755.jpg
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-23-18 Camino Frances (Astorga to Rabanal del Camino)

It is interesting how writing this mini blog of sorts about my 2018 CF brings out memories and recollections I had forgotten about, but other times I have no recollection of a particular day. This is one of them. I walked to Rabanal and stayed at albergue La Senda. Why stopped there and not have walked a few extra kilometres to Foncebadon, I have no idea lol. Looking at photos of the albergue on the internet I can see it looks nice, and I am sure I had no complaints and if there was a bar nearby I am sure I had a delicious cold beer there as well as some food. ;)
This is the part of the Frances that towns with albergues are more abundant, closer together and a pilgrim has many choices. Although in late October many in smaller towns and villages were indeed closed. Take note future pilgrims.
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10/23/2012: Acebo to Ponferrada
10/23/2017: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

“Of the many Villefranca on the Way, this is (imho), the best. The Bierzo region is a few days of pleasant walking ONCE getting off the pavement. That hard surface killed me today.

The intent had been to reach Pereje, another 6 km on. Between sudden fatigue a km out and meeting up a pilg in distress, we accommodated body and soul requirements in a jewel of an albergue.
[Albergue de la Piedra] Will head out shortly to get meds for the ailing pilg.

A cultural note…the bars are generally closed at the moment…outside of ‘siesta’ hours?!

Give us credit for some perspective; this is not a tragedy.


It is, however, a catastrophe.”
Yes, it truly can be catastrophic. I am by no means a heavy drinker, on or off the Camino, but having a cold Spanish beer after having walked 20-30 kilometres is indeed one of life's simple pleasures (at least for me lol).
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10/24/2012: Ponferrada to Pereje

Distilled thoughts from the journal of this day…

Leaving Ponferrada in the dark foggy morning often found me confused. And, yet, with startling regularity some angel would appear out of the pre-dawn mist to get me set back upon the Camino

BAD case of “Garden Envy” upon seeing the well-managed patch shown in the picture. Now, eight years later, I see my own beds approaching this level of care but I still have a ways to go. Oh, and I have a frost-resistant kale growing at all times for ‘Caldo Galega’, ‘Lentejas’, and a myriad of other Iberian soups/stews. (have not yet found a seed source for climbing collards we are used to seeing over there.)

Even then, my younger self noted how much the pavement walking was hurting.


10/24/2017: Villafranca del Bierzo to Laguna de Castilla

Again, just fragments from journal notes…

Having deep Montana ties (“The Big Sky State”) this view looking back just short of Laguna, and experiences of the Meseta, had me wondering about the exclusivity of ownership of the term.

I “reverse-engineered” La Escuela’s Pollo Cerveza back in 2012. I absolutely had to have it again at dinner to make sure that I had not missed anything. Well, I have gotten close but theirs is still better. (And, the albergue is another gem of a stay.)

Formally, here we’re not yet in Galicia. But something I had not noted in previous passages through the area…. The ‘soundtrack’ here is rich in the skirl of the local type of bagpipe (the ‘gaita’?) along with pennywhistle, flute, and lute - - all which make a strong claim to the Celtic identity of 6,000 years.
 

Attachments

  • 1603554455354.png
    1603554455354.png
    885 KB · Views: 6
  • 1603554562529.png
    1603554562529.png
    900.2 KB · Views: 7

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-24-18 Camino Frances (Rabanal del Camino to Acebo)

Not a long walking day at all. Less than 20 kilometres. Weather was good and was not on a tight schedule to walk this Frances to Santiago. No plan. No intinerary. No hurries and no worries. So I decided to stop at Rabanal and stay at the big new, posh albergue (albergue la casa del peregrino) on the edge of town on the way out. Sits atop of hill of sorts and you overlook the path. I had noticed it before on the Frances, but was always going further.
It was nice. Big, clean and modern. Not many pilgrims there or on the Frances in general so I had a small multi-bunk room to myself. Had a couple of beers at the bar and later had a very nice dinner there with a couple of other pilgrims. Some lovely views from the balcony.
 

roving_rufus

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2013-2015) Portugues (2017-2019) Via Francigena (2018-??) Camino from Ireland (2020-??)
Saturday 25th October 2015 - Tarjados to Hontanas
So a few days ago I rolled my ankle, its still causing me problems and this morning I decide to rework my plans to walk 2 more days, bus back to Burgos and have a little side trip to Madrid before flying home. (I needed my ankle to be good for what I had scheduled in work when I returned)
So I planned a short day...but it didn;t start well with a terrible cup of coffee - but decided I would get a proper coffee in the next village. So off I set...a couple of kilometres...but the bar was shut with a sign about a family problem. Onwards... craving coffee...reached Hornillos...and the open bar had no bartender, an elderly couple had opened up but no sign of him. They didn't know how to run the machines for coffee...they tried very hard - so two of us pilgrims stepped in to help them. The elderly couple got tortilla and bread sorted and we made coffee and tea - it was not the best made coffee but at least it was better than the coffee I had at breakfast! But it was so lovely that they wanted to make an effort for these pilgrims passing through. I finally got a decent cup of coffee when I finished for the day in Hontanas but the coffee in Hornillos will always be special!IMAG0772.jpg
 
Last edited:

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
CF both years…

10/25/2012: Pereje to Laguna de Castilla

Walked into Trabadelo for breakfast (none at Pereje) on a pavement slick w/ chestnuts. In the States they’re $10+/lb, here they are road trash. Wonderfully pleased with the albergue “Escuela” & loved every minute: Great Shower, Spacious WC, Laundry Service (that I split w/ a French guy & Danish gal)

My pack got way lighter by getting clothes clean AND dry. While laundry was running, we all enjoyed a nap before dinner. The meal was superb.

Caldo de Gallego (mm-mm good); Pollo a Cerveza (don’t know what they did but it was superb), then Tarte de Santiago. Pleasant meal & company all around.



10/25/2017: Laguna de Castilla to Triacastela

It was a surprisingly warm start to the day. Though fully anticipating being in three layers at O Cebreiro, I was down to just a t-shirt.

Throughout the day, I was caught up by pilgrims met long before. After a beer at the outskirts of Triacastela, we went in search of an albergue as a team. “Albergue Atrio” was the choice although this was its inaugural season and the café/bar was not open. Pleasant enough place, for sure though.

I might mis-remember but I think this is from the WC at ‘Parrillada Xacobeo’. Anyway, I was pretty surprised at changes to the CF locales since my last visit in the winter of 2016. But, this floored me. Had it not been a simple steel washtub sink?
 

Attachments

  • 1603636831915.png
    1603636831915.png
    754.6 KB · Views: 7
  • 1603636926962.png
    1603636926962.png
    966.6 KB · Views: 12

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-25-18 Camino Frances (Acebo to Ponferrada)

Another short walking day. To be honest I was getting a little bit concerned with walking to a smaller town with its albergues closed for the season.
Nice weather, but could definitely feel the changes in the air. Gone were the sunny, warm days of the first days on this Frances. Stayed at albergue Guiana. Big albergue. Nice and modern. Not many pilgrims staying there that night. Had dinner with two peregrinas I had met a couple weeks earlier.
Somewhere on the route that morning and enjoying a cold beer in a bar in the plaza in Ponferrada that afternoon.
IMG_20181025_083550177.jpgIMG_20181025_132027649.jpg
 
Last edited:

alansykes

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
San Pedro de Caracena, 2019

Santo Domingo de Silos, 2018

San Juan de la Peña, 2017

Alcalá la Real, 2016

Santo Domingo (Soria), 2015
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20181025_153307.jpg
    IMG_20181025_153307.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 5
  • DSC_0867.jpg
    DSC_0867.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 4
  • DSC_0618.jpg
    DSC_0618.jpg
    633.9 KB · Views: 4
  • DSC_0740.jpg
    DSC_0740.jpg
    93.7 KB · Views: 4
  • DSC_0622.jpg
    DSC_0622.jpg
    385 KB · Views: 6

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
CF both years…


10/26/2012:
Laguna de Castilla to Triacastela

Top memories of the day were: meeting the “Crepes Lady of [EDIT "Fonfria"] and getting a couple of pilgrims out of the way of a herd of cows.

They had no idea that cows had right of way….because “they’re ill-mannered, uncouth and on top of that? They're just so big and heavy” was my explanation. Somehow, the pilgs yet harbored some resentment.:confused:


10/26/2017: Triacastela to Morgade

Morgade because someone had changed the usual route to Barbadelo. It turned out okay but sure made for a long day.

Helped a peregrino celebrate his 70th birthday with a few beers and bar snacks at Casa Morgade where I also snagged the last bed. Which was good as it was so darn hot again I doubt that I could have walked further.
 

Attachments

  • 1603724652966.png
    1603724652966.png
    763.5 KB · Views: 6
  • 1603724731571.png
    1603724731571.png
    1.2 MB · Views: 6
Last edited:

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
@simply B Can you elaborate on the Crepes Lady of Fromista?
Thanks for catching that @linkster!

FONFRIA! (not Fromista, so corrected above. I better wait for my second cup of coffee to kick in before posting in the future.:oops:)

She's a sweet old lady that came out of a house (barn at ground level, house was above it) with a plate of crepes to offer to pilgrims. If you wanted one, she took a shaker of powdered sugar and topped it with a light dusting.

Upon taking it, she then stuck out her hand asking for a "donativo". Sharp as a tack, that old bird! I have come across her a couple of times.

B
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
Thanks for catching that @linkster!

FONFRIA! (not Fromista, so corrected above. I better wait for my second cup of coffee to kick in before posting in the future.:oops:)

She's a sweet old lady that came out of a house (barn at ground level, house was above it) with a plate of crepes to offer to pilgrims. If you wanted one, she took a shaker of powdered sugar and topped it with a light dusting.

Upon taking it, she then stuck out her hand asking for a "donativo". Sharp as a tack, that old bird! I have come across her a couple of times.

B
She got me too, back in 2013 I think. I can still remember having do dig around my cargo pockets for some coins to give her after scarfing down the crepe, which in all honesty was unmemorable taste wise, lol.
On a later Camino Frances I stayed in Fonfria and only had lunch in O'Cebreiro. I highly recommend the albergue in Fonfria and the communal dinner they have at night.
 

linkster

Nunca dejes de creer!
Camino(s) past & future
CF (17) Sarria - Portomarín
CF (17) SJPdP - SdC
CF (18) SJPdP - Fisterra
CP (19) Porto - Muxia
@RJM, I stayed at Albergue-Pensión A Reboleira in Fonfría on the Camino Francės in 2017. I enjoyed the communal meal. One of my fellow peregrinas was a vegetarian, and they were very accommodating. Besides being a vegetarian, she had the ability to teleport herself (show up way ahead of us without passing), and spoke 5+ languages. I remember struggling with the German next to me, she would gently interject enough German to move my conversation along, and return to her conversation in ???? French, without skipping a beat.IMG_2689.JPG
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
@RJM, I stayed at Albergue-Pensión A Reboleira in Fonfría on the Camino Francės in 2017. I enjoyed the communal meal. One of my fellow peregrinas was a vegetarian, and they were very accommodating. Besides being a vegetarian, she had the ability to teleport herself (show up way ahead of us without passing), and spoke 5+ languages. I remember struggling with the German next to me, she would gently interject enough German to move my conversation along, and return to her conversation in ???? French, without skipping a beat.View attachment 86268
Yes, that is the albergue and that is the peaked roundhouse where the communal dinner is served. Loved it. I remember it was about 100 metres from the albergue, across a road. I also remember lots of good, hearty food and wine. The dinner was well worth the extra euros.
I cannot take credit for these photos. They are stock ones from the internet, but they show the interior and exterior of the roundhouse.
dsc-0269-largejpg.jpgalbergue-a-reboleira.jpg
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
Yes, agreed, 'A Reboleira' offers wonderful accommodations and hospitality!

Stayed with them in latter part of April 2014 when high winds and heavy rain gave me doubts about getting my partner down a probably slippery grade into Tricastela without incident.

The communal dinner was a standout in quality and an excellent value.
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-26-18 Camino Frances (Ponferrada to Cacabelos)

Another short walking day. Got into Cacabelos and there was a street market going on. Winded my way around all that and as I got to the far edge of town across the river I made the decision to stay there and not continue on to Villafranca del Bierzo, less that 10 kilometres away. Another occasion where I do not remember what influenced my decision. Perhaps it was because I had never stayed there before and the albergue on the edge of town, municipal albergue Las Angustias looked interesting. Next to an old church. Small, simple two individual beds in the rooms, but there were few pilgrims so I had one to myself. As the afternoon wore down, it got colder. Winter type air. I remember having to walk to the shower which was kind of an open air setup and as I showered the warm water steamed up the cold air a lot. Quickly dried myself off as it was quite chilly at that point.
Later I went to mass at the church back in town, a short walk back across the river bridge and on the left. Just a few of us pilgrims and some locals.
 

linkster

Nunca dejes de creer!
Camino(s) past & future
CF (17) Sarria - Portomarín
CF (17) SJPdP - SdC
CF (18) SJPdP - Fisterra
CP (19) Porto - Muxia
@RJM you are a day ahead of me. By the time I got to Cacabelos on the 27th it was cold, and rainy. I decided to stay at Hotel Villa de Cacabelos. The manager recommended El Refugio de Saul for dinner. They had a degustacion menu that was great. I think it was about 25€. It was a splurge relative to a normal albergue and menu del diá. It was the best non-albergue meal I had on the Camino. The best albergue meal was in San Martín del Camino at Albergue Vieira.:D:cool:
IMG_6985.JPGIMG_6987.JPGIMG_6988.JPGIMG_6989.JPGIMG_6990.JPGIMG_6991.JPGIMG_6992.JPG
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
Early and long day tomorrow so am posting "Spain time"...

CF both years...

10/27/2012: Triacastela to Barbadelo

Did not get a lot of sleep in the Xunta albergue. Nice and clean place but the creakiness and clanging of the swinging doors between bunks and hallway over-powered earplugs.

Largely “unpeopled” on the day’s walk along the St. Xil option though I would not have minded some human noise on stretches. These were more tunnels than paths as evidenced in the picture - - RUS’s (Rodents of Unusual Size – see “Princess Bride”) would not have been out of place.

Ran out of gas right in front of ‘Casa Barbadelo’ - - which turned out to be fortuitous. Took care of laundry after getting a bed (in what room turned out to be all mine that night!) and the staff were great. I luxuriated in a shower that had hot water, and pressure, and no time limit. It might have been sinful.

The meal that evening I recorded in my notes as best in Spain to date. By this time, I had been in Europe for a full month, Spain just 28 days. The meal?

1o: Empanada Gallega
2o: Albondigas
Postre: Flan


10/27/2017: Morgade to Ventas de Naron

Like five years prior, sleep proved hard to come by in the night.

On my right, a poor soul suffering a stomach ailment was up every thirty minutes to visit the bathroom in the hall. The ensuing aural impressions were very much ‘surround sound’ and not conducive to rest until about 04:30. The respite was brief.

At 05:30, the person on my right is up and waving her bright-white headlamp in jerky arcs through the room ‘getting organized’. It was like Obi-Wan having a seizure with his light saber set to slice-and-dice. (And, yes, I do use a sleep mask but it was apparently not rated for laser protection.)

Dawn is three hours distant. Everything is in a pack for heaven’s sake. What’s to organize?

And, wow, it was hot that day after clearing Portomarin. I suppressed tears of joy, barely, upon delivery of a cold beer to the veranda of ‘Casa Molar’.

I have no idea if the food was good as I don’t remember. (It had been just fine 5 years prior.) It is entirely possible that I just crashed into bed after a couple beers. (And, I know, I am probably the very first pilgrim to have ever done that...and admitted it, anyway. ;))
 

Attachments

  • 1603758934940.png
    1603758934940.png
    745.8 KB · Views: 10
  • 1603759057049.png
    1603759057049.png
    1,003.8 KB · Views: 11

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Thanks for catching that @linkster!

FONFRIA! (not Fromista, so corrected above. I better wait for my second cup of coffee to kick in before posting in the future.:oops:)

She's a sweet old lady that came out of a house (barn at ground level, house was above it) with a plate of crepes to offer to pilgrims. If you wanted one, she took a shaker of powdered sugar and topped it with a light dusting.

Upon taking it, she then stuck out her hand asking for a "donativo". Sharp as a tack, that old bird! I have come across her a couple of times.

B
I met the Fonfria pancake lady in 2004!!!!! When were you there last, @simply B ? She looked like someone from central casting. I highly admire her spunk.
 

Kanga

Moderator
Staff member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés x 5, Le Puy x 2, Arles, Tours, Norte, Madrid, Via de la Plata, Portuguese, Primitivo
27 October 2018, Senda Literal, Portugal.

A day walking by the sea - glorious sunshine but a cold wind blowing hard from the North. Just my kind of walking weather! In fact so good I surprised myself, and comfortably walked far more km than intended. Which had something also to do with missing the good albergue and being determined to get to this great little hotel.

IMG_2464.jpgIMG_2462.jpgIMG_2461.jpgIMG_2456.jpgIMG_2443.jpg
 

Latecomer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
VDLP (Sept 2015)

CF SJPDP-SdC+
(Sept/Oct 2018)
October 27, 2018... Final day of the Variante Espiritual (of the Portuguese Route). Took the 9 am boat from Vila Nova de Arousa to Pontecessures (about 16km). The boat ride was cold but it was interesting to see the mussel harvesting and sites along the way. 5 cyclists (and their bikes) joined us part way. The Spiritual Variant was great!
Oct 27 Vilanova de Arousa to Puentecesures.jpg
¡Buen Camino!
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
I met the Fonfria pancake lady in 2004!!!!! When were you there last, @simply B ? She looked like someone from central casting. I highly admire her spunk.
2017 was last time that I was through Fonfria, @peregrina2000 . I did not see her then but I cruised through right around siesta so that might explain it.

Last time I saw her was April of 2014 as she was heading back to the kitchen to make another batch.
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-27-18 Camino Frances (Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce)

Woke up early and my plan for the day was to walk to O'Cebreiro. Started off just at sunrise. Fairly cold morning. Cloudy but no rain when I started off and was good walking weather. I saw an older man way up in a very large fig tree gathering figs and putting them in a plastic grocery bag tied to his belt. It was right on the path. I asked him in my rudimentary Spanish if they were sweet. He said they were and threw me down a couple. They were very large, dark figs and quite delicious. I thanked him and went on my way.
As I reached Trabadelo I decided to stop for some coffee and food. Just as I exited the cafe the weather turned and it started to rain and got colder. Nasty weather. I broke out the rain jacket and attached the cover to my pack. You could see towards the west the weather changing. By the time I got to Vega de Valcarce the weather was just plain nasty. Cold and rainy. It sucked. A front was coming through. I decided to stop there. I had stayed there once before at a really nice and inexpensive family run Pensiones, Pension Fernandez but this time opted for the municipal albergue, basic but nice. As I got there it appeared empty and I sat at the hospitalero's desk for probably ten minutes before I read the sheet of paper on the desk saying it was self check-in and the hospitalero would be there at 6:00 pm to properly check everyone in. I went up to find a bed and saw that there was only about six other pilgrims there. Took a shower, and because of the weather no clothes washing today. Just hung my shirt and shorts up to air out. Hospitalero arrived that night and checked everyone in. Chatting with him outside he pointed in the direction told me there was a snowstorm in the mountains and tomorrow I would be walking in snow to O'Cebreiro. The hospitalero got the fire place going in the common area, and split some extra wood. He was a really good guy.
I went to the small, local store and bought some bread, cheese, sausage and beer for dinner and enough for a sandwich to bring with me in the morning.
Vega de Valcarce is a very nice little town. I highly recommend staying there for those opting out of staying at O'Cebreiro and looking for a stop just before it.
My view from the upper floor of the albergue. It would very different in the morning.
IMG_20181027_180951727_HDR.jpg
 
Last edited:

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10/28/2012: Barbadelo to Ventas de Naron

I didn’t get as much sleep as anticipated in my comfy un-shared room. The dogs started up something fierce about 16 km out around 8 pm; by 2:00 am “the show” (whatever it was) had all the dogs in town in full cry.

Had a quick breakfast of the usual pilgrim fare then ventured into a totally clear morning of somewhat subdued light. I could not explain that to myself with clocks just set back an hour so figured it was me that was dim.

Not a lot of pilgrims in evidence most of day.

Galicia must have been dry this year as the Embalse at Portomarin was very low and I observed fire damage at several spots during the day.


10/28/2017: Ventas de Naron to Melide

It was a chilly morning then a powerful rise in temperature as the day progressed. Unlike in 2012, my woolen hat had virtually no use on this Camino to date.

It was a Saturday and here we’re not too far out from Santiago and yet – hardly any pilgrims! That seemed weird because I am used to seeing a lot of locals walking on the weekend to complete stages of a Camino. This is a stage usually crowded on a “slow” day.

I nursed a couple café con leche and a small bocadillo on the deck of ‘La Cabana’ (just east of Palas de Rei) and watched pilgrims as they passed. Over 40 minutes, there were few. It’s a mystery.
 

Attachments

  • 1603892226162.png
    1603892226162.png
    712.8 KB · Views: 7
  • 1603892244329.png
    1603892244329.png
    1.1 MB · Views: 8

linkster

Nunca dejes de creer!
Camino(s) past & future
CF (17) Sarria - Portomarín
CF (17) SJPdP - SdC
CF (18) SJPdP - Fisterra
CP (19) Porto - Muxia
On October 27, 2018, on the Camino Francés. I met a peregrina in Villa Franco del Bierzo. I think we were the only two in the plaza mayor looking for some coffee. She was freezing, and envious of my gloves. I walked her back to the China store where she was able to buy some mittens. We walked together to Trabadelo where she had a reservation. It was cold out. We made at least one more pitstop for coffee.

I continued walking to La Portela de Valcarce, and stopped in the restaurant for a real snack. After a couple of glasses of wine, I decided to spend the night at the hotel. The restaurant and cafeteria was packed. I started getting a bunch of texts from friends telling me there was snow on O Cebreiro, and to check the weather.

On October, 28, 2018, I heard numerous reports that Camino (trail) was closed because of a heavy snow storm. I checked at the local transportation office and the woman confirmed there was heavy snow on the trail. I remember her looking down at my trail runners, smiling, and shaking her head. I decided to
take a bus from La Portela de Valcarce to Lugo to avoid the snow at O Cebreiro. I took the bus with the peregrina I met from the day before.

I had a great lunch in Lugo. I walked the walls, and visited the cathedral. I took the train the next morning (October 29, 2018) to Sarria, and started walking by ~9:00AM.

I know several friends that ended up walking that day. One was in Las Herrerías ... she waited until Viktor (caballero) took the horses up and cleared the trail. She did say the snow was thigh high in places. Another friend, walked the road.👣:D:cool:IMG_7015.PNGIMG_7019.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7027.JPG
    IMG_7027.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 5
  • IMG_7040.JPG
    IMG_7040.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_7058.JPG
    IMG_7058.JPG
    1 MB · Views: 11

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-28-18 Camino Frances (Vega de Valcarce to O'Cebreiro)

Woke up when it was still dark and grabbed my kit and went downstairs to the common area. The fire in the fireplace had long gone out, but it wasn't really that cold inside the albergue. Quite obvious it was cold outside, though. Got my stuff packed and in a waterproof inner bag in my pack. I did not plan my walk to be in snow, although I knew the possibility was there. Nonetheless I saw no logic in carrying extreme cold weather in my kit to only use 1-3 days, maximum. That is at most only 10% of the journey. I did have enough tech clothing and a fleece pullover to layer up quite well, with a Columbia breathable rain parka to top it off. My Columbia long pants I did bring were water repellent and actually worked quite well with knee high compression socks and a pair of long compression shorts down to my knees underneath. Only thing I wish I had was a beanie type cap and a pair of gloves, but I made do with a baseball type cap and bare hands. I never really got cold that day.
A Korean couple came down to the common area and offered me a hot cup of tea which was quite nice. I ate a protein bar with the tea and off I went into the cold at first light. Snow on the mountains, snow on the rooftops. The first part of the walk to Herrerias was fine, but as I went upward the snow increased. When I got to the intersection where the paved road marked for bicycles meets the footpath I foolishly chose the footpath. There were downed trees and limbs everywhere and several times I heard limbs crashing down in the woods nearby. Big limbs coming down that can injure or kill. A couple of places downed trees blocked the path and had to climb over them, or around them (oh why did I choose the footpath...another what was I thinking moment in life). Only saw a few other pilgrims. Finally reached O'Cebreiro, where there was a television camera crew for Galician news filming. They filmed my triumphant entrance into town, lol. I stopped at the municipal. Only a few of us, but by dark there would be many others staying there. Snowed heavily that night and I did not try and go out for dinner. Pretty much everyone was stuck in there for the night.
IMG_20181028_080112586_HDR.jpgIMG_20181028_110905858.jpgIMG_20181028_123735548.jpg
 
Last edited:

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-29-18 Camino Frances (O'Cebreiro to Triacastela)

Lots of snow on the ground. The actual Camino footpath not visible. Walked to Triacastela via the roadway. A bit dodgy and scary at times due to passing vehicles and snowy conditions. Stayed at a nice private albergue in Triacastela, A Horta de Abel. A pilgrim couple I had met earlier was also staying there and we went out and had a nice dinner together.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Us:Camino Frances, 2015 Me:Catalan/Aragonese, 2019
October 29th, 2019 I started the day in Monzon to continue with my Camino Catalan. I had a suite at a new modern hotel; there wasn't any other place to stay, everything cheaper was completo. I tried to get my money's worth at the breakfast buffet but I had to leave a few things untried.

This was day 11 of my camino and I finally met a pilgrim headed my way (he actually made it all the way to SdC). We spent the night at the albergue in Berbegal. The next morning he probably left me in the dust to reach Huesca (two days away for me) to stay awhile with friends. I say probably because it was so foggy it wouldn't have been seen.

He was the only pilgrim headed west that I met on the Catalan. There was about a half dozen going the other way on the Ignatius. Later on, on the Aragonese, we met again and shared lodgings a few nights with a French woman.
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10/29/2012: Ventas de Narón to Melide

The walk was pretty good. The scenery much like ever since entering Galicia walking in lots of cowpaths which were generously laden with manure.

Saw flushes of chanterelles while passing by the oak forests - - very sad to be without pan, flame, and some butter.

Most memorable for the day were the hours after settling in to Albergue Cruceiro

After helping a woman my age by prepping a saltwater bath for her feet, I set to laundry with my ‘roomie’ Leonard. As we exited the drying rack area, a young woman approaches and asks “Which of you is B?” I admitted to it and was rewarded with a big hug and peck on the cheek. She was the daughter of my “foot patient” and the foot-soaking was apparently magical in restorative effect.

During washup, Leonard confided that he walked out his front door on June 1. What is that - - 1,800 km or so?? He accepted the offer of dinner in honor of his accomplishment and chose Ezequiel’s. He had a ready audience for his tales of the road and we passed a most enjoyable evening.

As we crossed back over Av. Lugo, a young Hungarian girl that I had helped a few times in the past rushed up to me in the street to hug me and kiss me on the cheeks. [Three times! Woo-Hoo!]

“You SAVED my Camino! Thank you!” [It was really just some basic foot care and modifications of her downhill walking style.]

A wide-eyed Leonard says to me, “I NEVER have that happen to me, and you have it twice in a few hours. How does an old guy pull that off?”

“Don’t worry about it, Leonard, I am sure that I just remind them of their father.”



10/29/2017: Melide to Brea

Lots of city walking and flagstone paths this day…both hard on the feet. Then, back in tunnels of trees in the countryside, and we threaded our way among the cows for a few km as well. (They were going our way.)

After about 30 K, our feet said “Enough!” and albergues were running out of beds. With five ‘roncedores’ (snorers) in the room last night, we needed a quiet night…just like the last 4 nights. Maybe more, but really, who’s counting?

“Pension O’ Meson” on the N-547, just short of Sta. Irene, got 5 stars from me just because they provided me a sound sleep for the night and that was in a room facing the road! Food was quite good and all the service staff were really nice, just so you know.

Yes, it is the entry to Ribadiso you see here after a mere whisper of wind cast a shower of gold to the path.
 

Attachments

  • 1603984648324.png
    1603984648324.png
    911 KB · Views: 5
  • 1603984762891.png
    1603984762891.png
    1.2 MB · Views: 3

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-30-18 Camino Frances (Triacastela to Sarria)

It was nice to walk without the snow this day. I'm not one for hiking, walking, camping etc in cold, snowy and wet conditions. Had enough of that stuff in the military. In the future (God willing) my Camino's will all be hot and dry weather ones.
Got to Sarria and stayed at the Albergue Mayor. Right at the top of the steps on the left. Really nice, clean and modern albergue. Gracious hospitalera. Using the machines I washed and dried as much of my clothes as I could. Later went to the supermercado and got some provisions and cooked myself a meal at the albergue. It was not crowded. Good kitchen. Got a beer at the bar at the nearby pensiones at the top of the steps, Pension Escalinata. Stayed there once before. The guy that runs it is really cool. Nice bar. Cold beer and they have raciones on the menu.
 
Last edited:

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10/30/2012: Melide to Salceda

Out of my usual solitary habits on this day. A couple from Oregon met up with me departing Melida. Their pace matched mine so we walked and talked almost the entire way to Salceda. I do not remember a lack of inspiration nor time but, in any case, not a single picture from the day.

We decided on ‘Pensión Albergue Turístico Salceda’ for the night - - the albergue side. (Four stars, btw, this place!) While organizing laundry and showers we ran into an Argentinian brother and sister, now from the States.

These two were a hoot – very fluent in Spanish, who begged, implored, wheedled and cajoled for the group to be granted the right to order from the main menu. When told that, as pilgrims, we were obliged to order from the Pilgrim Menu, they switched to complaining – very dramatically.

It was all very comical but to no avail. We were stuck with the Pilgrim’s Menu which, although decent, was not nearly as inspiring as what we saw the locals eating.

10/30/2017: Brea to Santiago de Compostela

We have no idea where the wave of pilgrims was hiding but they showed up this day in a big way. Alternating stretches through eucalyptus groves and city walks, “they” were there.

I thought walking with cows was difficult but wading through school groups proved more challenging.

Cows move in roughly straight lines, generally a dog at their heel (or human with a stick) to keep them moving and they do not have an annoying habit of waving sticks around at inopportune times.

Neither do they unexpectedly drop in front of one to adjust footwear. On the positive side,
school groups leave no ‘residue’, so they have that going for them.

Hot and cold waves rotated all through the day making gear adjustments frequent. A chill, dry wind blows through the city at the moment making ‘al fresco’ dining uncomfortable.

A look at ‘Torre de Berenguela’ from my front door of a couple evenings…just down from the old Pilgrim’s Office.
 

Attachments

  • 1604079116262.png
    1604079116262.png
    1 MB · Views: 4

linkster

Nunca dejes de creer!
Camino(s) past & future
CF (17) Sarria - Portomarín
CF (17) SJPdP - SdC
CF (18) SJPdP - Fisterra
CP (19) Porto - Muxia
@simply B That is too bad about Albergue Turistica. I have stayed there twice and Santiago was very accommodating. He said he used to be a chef. The dinner was very good.:D😎
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
@simply B That is too bad about Albergue Turistica. I have stayed there twice and Santiago was very accommodating. He said he used to be a chef. The dinner was very good.:D😎
Thank you sooooo much, @linkster !

Say, I have a papercut on a finger. You want to put some lemon juice and salt on it? :p

Yes, Santiago and his family are very accommodating. I stayed with them again in early March of 2016 and was treated to eating dinner with the family. Humble, but good food.

B
 

linkster

Nunca dejes de creer!
Camino(s) past & future
CF (17) Sarria - Portomarín
CF (17) SJPdP - SdC
CF (18) SJPdP - Fisterra
CP (19) Porto - Muxia
Thank you sooooo much, @linkster !

Say, I have a papercut on a finger. You want to put some lemon juice and salt on it? :p

B
Oh to be self-aware would be a blessing ... I can step in it without trying sometimes.:eek:😂🤣 Thanks you for the reply ... it made me laugh which is a good way to start the day!👣:D😎
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-31-18 Camino Frances (Sarria to Portomarin)

Typical trek to Portomarin from Sarria. Weather was nice. Thank goodness out of the snow. Stayed in a private albergue, Casona da Ponte. Nice, clean and modern. Not crowded, but was a fair amount of pilgrims. I was actually directed there by another albergue which I thought was open, but had actually closed for the season. The hospitalero was gracious enough to walk me to the open one. Lots of support infrastructure in Portomarin and got provisions at the supermercado. Also had to get some medicated foot powder from the farmicia as my feet, despite my frequent sock changes and care I gave them, did get a touch of the old trench foot from walking in the snow. The powder worked like a champ in healing them.
IMG_20181031_141357580_HDR.jpgIMG_20181031_141613731.jpg
 
Camino(s) past & future
Us:Camino Frances, 2015 Me:Catalan/Aragonese, 2019
October 31, 2019. I walk into Huesca in the early afternoon. I'm on schedule. The plan was to get there, a sizeable city, before everything closed for All Saints Day. I didn't feel the need to pickup any more clothes to tackle the Pyrenees in November but I did need to get some cash, buy a replacement phone charging battery and renew my phone plan. Thank goodness the clerk handling the latter spoke excellent English. Things hadn't gone well with linguistically between me and Orange representatives a few times before.

In the evening I wandered the town eventually ending up in the business district where an unexpected paseo was happening, an almost American style Halloween Trick or Treating. The kids were getting their goodies from the stores. Most of the kids were in spooky costumes, there weren't many superheroes in the bunch. Along the way I had seen plenty of Halloween items for sale but I was surprised by this none-the-less.
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10/31/2012: Salceda to Santiago de Compostela

For only 28 km, it seemed like a long day. The small ‘family’ that coalesced last night stayed together for the entire walk. Memory tells me that we were, at once, both excited to reach Santiago and yet a bit sad to have the experience end. Further experience, and reading on this Forum, demonstrated the commonality of the mix of sentiment.

I wandered the town on my own after obtaining my Compostela before meeting up with the group for pizza. We came out at twilight’s passing into a dense, wetting fog and split up to find our respective beds for the evening. Everybody else had one already! After getting myself oriented, ‘Hospedería San Martín Pinario’ was a lucky find after minimal trudging.

This would be the last time that I beheld the Cathedral without drapes and scaffolding.


10/31/2017: Rest day in Santiago

Picked up the Compostela from the Pilgrim Office. Connected with folks met as far back as Hontanas; Lord, were they hungover.

Had my laundry done at “Pilgrim House” which always provides spectacular service in a welcoming environment. Aside from laundry service, they have a small kitchen/dining space, W/C, showers, and meditation area for quiet time. Always a worthwhile stop.

I passed on the Pilgrim Mass, opting instead for an intimate English service at the Capilla de Pilar. Having seen the swinging of the ‘botafumeiro’ many times, it did not behoove inciting discontent by attendance and listening to the ‘shushing’ by security personnel attempting to maintain the decorum of the proceedings.

After that came the quiet musing over what to do with the rest of my days in Spain, then following up with requisite logistics.
 

Attachments

  • 1604170174377.png
    1604170174377.png
    704.7 KB · Views: 3
  • 1604170400291.png
    1604170400291.png
    941.3 KB · Views: 2
  • 1604170457996.png
    1604170457996.png
    1.1 MB · Views: 3

linkster

Nunca dejes de creer!
Camino(s) past & future
CF (17) Sarria - Portomarín
CF (17) SJPdP - SdC
CF (18) SJPdP - Fisterra
CP (19) Porto - Muxia
Thank goodness the clerk handling the latter spoke excellent English. Things hadn't gone well with linguistically between me and Orange representatives a few times before.
FYI, I was able to call an English language support line during normal business hours from what I remember.:D 😎
 

linkster

Nunca dejes de creer!
Camino(s) past & future
CF (17) Sarria - Portomarín
CF (17) SJPdP - SdC
CF (18) SJPdP - Fisterra
CP (19) Porto - Muxia
+1 Hospedería San Martín Pinario is my go to place to stay.

I went to the mass that is held in the Pilgrims Office for the first time last year and enjoyed it. It was a simple venue with a smaller crowd.:D:cool:
 

Advertisement

Booking.com

Similar threads

Camino Conversations

Camino Conversations

Forum Rules

Forum Rules

Forum Donation

Forum Donation
For those with no forum account, it is possible to donate here as well. Thank you for your support! Ivar

Follow Casa Ivar on Instagram

Most downloaded Resources

When is the best time to walk?

  • January

    Votes: 16 1.2%
  • February

    Votes: 10 0.8%
  • March

    Votes: 57 4.3%
  • April

    Votes: 202 15.2%
  • May

    Votes: 330 24.8%
  • June

    Votes: 96 7.2%
  • July

    Votes: 25 1.9%
  • August

    Votes: 27 2.0%
  • September

    Votes: 386 29.0%
  • October

    Votes: 159 11.9%
  • November

    Votes: 17 1.3%
  • December

    Votes: 7 0.5%

Camino Forum Store

Camino Forum Store
Top