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One amazing day on Camino dos Faros/Costa da Morte!

2020 Camino Guides

surya8

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Portugues Central and Coastal 2017 & 2019; Portugues Interior, Sanabres, Fisterra & Muxia 2018
At the end of my first Camino I happened to walk a day on the Camino dos Faros - by accident, out of negligence and lack of info rather then planning and will :) I now realise that it was an amazing gift from the universe to me! The route walked: Finisterre/Fisterra to Lires in the direction of Muxia - through bushes, brumbles, heather and wild beaches. No maps, no internet, no gadgets, just walking to the north. That was definitely the most memorable day of my whole Camino! I walked the Portugues Central from Porto that time. That Camino ended for me not in Fisterra or Muxia but out there, on the beach in Lires. Where I was overwelmed and swept away by the utter beauty and where my heart, soul and long suffering legs found peace.
My multicoloured day here for you: https://anna-camino2.livejournal.com/4177.html
Bom Caminho! :)
 

O Peracha

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy to Santiago (2014)
Annapurna Base, Nepal (2014)
GR 5 - Holland to Pompey, France (2015)
Lisbon to Finesterre (2016)
Based on your pictures, I believe I did this also but in the other direction. This was several years ago. When you got up to the top of the cliff, there were green arrows but not always clear which way to go. I had the place to myself. Wasn't sure I was on the right path until, finally, ran into a couple going towards Muxia. Good times . . .
 

MinaKamina

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Jacobspad 2017
I've said it before and will probably say it again: I do not have a bucket list, but the Camino dos Faros is on it.

The pictures are wonderful, an amazing world in one day.
 

Theatregal

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
So far...
2012 ~ 2019
Thank you so much for posting your experience on this day @surya8 ! Your description and beautiful photos really confirm my desire to walk this route!!
 

surya8

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Portugues Central and Coastal 2017 & 2019; Portugues Interior, Sanabres, Fisterra & Muxia 2018
Based on your pictures, I believe I did this also but in the other direction. This was several years ago. When you got up to the top of the cliff, there were green arrows but not always clear which way to go.
If we only knew about the green markings! We left Fisterra in the morning, only knowing that there is some way to Muxia. Asked the local who didn't have any clue whatsoever, so we had to invent our own path :) It kind of worked although bushes and brumbles assaulted my legs badly there. I guess if I ever decide to walk this route further I'd go for a sturdier pair of leggings or smth that I wouldn't regret disposing of in Muxia :)
 

surya8

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Portugues Central and Coastal 2017 & 2019; Portugues Interior, Sanabres, Fisterra & Muxia 2018
I've said it before and will probably say it again: I do not have a bucket list, but the Camino dos Faros is on it.
The pictures are wonderful, an amazing world in one day.
Well, we walked only one day there out of many, from Fisterra to Lires, so even if you are short of time you could still do a bit of it on the spot. Walking the whole route would take some planning as it seems like a relatively wild country out there.
 

Stuart Howard

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Past Caminos - Frances, Portugues, Norte, Primitivo, Dos Faros
I walked the whole Faros in May this year and it is probably the most spectacular Camino I have walked. It is not an easy route in parts and not for the faint-hearted when walking some of the narrow coastal ledges. It sticks to the coast like a limpet. It is not an official Camino although it has ambitions to become thus. Advance planning for accommodation is needed as some stages finish on a beach with no nearby services so a taxi out and back the next morning to continue is needed. That can have an advantage as for a couple of days you can base yourself in a town and day pack back to the town. I would highly recommend it if you like a challenge, amazing scenery and solitude - we hardly saw a soul the whole route until we got to Muxia.
 

easygoing

Camino Sharon
Camino(s) past & future
I have walked the Camino Francis 7 times, twice in 2017 and 2018. (2019)
My husband and I walked from Lires to Fisterra in September this year. We saw one other walker which was a nice change after the unexpected crowds from Santiago to Olveira. After the the path split to Muxia it was not crowded because most were walking to Fisterra first. The Camino dos Faros is indeed lined in places with short, sharp thorned bushes but the walks along the beach are worth it. And you might even score a romantic kiss.
 

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markgrubb

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances 2016
Camino Del Norte 2017
Camino Mozarabe (Almeria) 2019
Camino Portuguese 2019
I would very much echo what Stuart Howard said. The stage you did is one of many spectacular stages and it is a hard, hard walk. Of all the many routes I have done it is my favourite of all. Stunning scenery, wild coast and few people. I suspect it will get much more popular now Rother have published a walking guide. It is not that well waymarked but as it sticks rigidly to the coast it is hard to get truly lost. I was glad though to have Wikilock and the stages downloaded on my phone. I did the Camino Portugues shortly after and it seemed very ordinary. If you are interested I uploaded my trip report to the forum.
An absolute gem of a walk
 

MTowers

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Sarria to Santiago in 2015 and Camino Finisterre in September 2017
Camino Portuguese from Tui 2018
At the end of my first Camino I happened to walk a day on the Camino dos Faros - by accident, out of negligence and lack of info rather then planning and will :) I now realise that it was an amazing gift from the universe to me! The route walked: Finisterre/Fisterra to Lires in the direction of Muxia - through bushes, brumbles, heather and wild beaches. No maps, no internet, no gadgets, just walking to the north. That was definitely the most memorable day of my whole Camino! I walked the Portugues Central from Porto that time. That Camino ended for me not in Fisterra or Muxia but out there, on the beach in Lires. Where I was overwelmed and swept away by the utter beauty and where my heart, soul and long suffering legs found peace.
My multicoloured day here for you: https://anna-camino2.livejournal.com/4177.html
Bom Caminho! :)
Thank you for sharing your experience and breathtakingly beautiful photos. We did the Camino Finisterre a couple of years ago and when you first get sight of the Atlantic, it's a wonderful feeling. The most amazing place for me was Muxia and the beautiful church on the headland with its bells ringing out above the crashing waves. It was a very spiritual experience.
 

MyDestinationGalicia

Mark Auchincloss
Camino(s) past & future
Camino de Invierno,Portuguese Ways x15 French Way Sarria x5, Silver Way Ourense, Santiago-Muxia x2..
The route is well marked and easy to follow although the green arrows are small bit still easy to find. It's marked in the one direction only so you should start in Mapica de Bergantiños and walk south to Finisterre not the other way around which understandably is virtually impossible to follow ! The offical webiste has all the info you need http://www.caminodosfaros.com/en/. The whole camino is also on Google Street View https://www.google.com/streetview/explore/
 

surya8

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Portugues Central and Coastal 2017 & 2019; Portugues Interior, Sanabres, Fisterra & Muxia 2018
We did the Camino Finisterre a couple of years ago and when you first get sight of the Atlantic, it's a wonderful feeling. The most amazing place for me was Muxia and the beautiful church on the headland with its bells ringing out above the crashing waves. It was a very spiritual experience.
My fav stretch there is located after Corcubion where we stayed in the amazing San Roque donativo. The beaches from Corcubion onwards: Playa de Estorde, Sardineiro, Playa de Langosteira - all before Fisterra. They reminded me a bit of my native land in Russia and beaches with dunes in the Kuronian Spit National park. Via Baltica (a Camino) passes there: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curonian_Spit
Muxia is a very special place to me as well but seems to be transforming into a big resort or soon to be when this huge hotel is going to be finished there. So I try to cherish it while it lasts before the onslaught of mass tourism.
 

surya8

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Portugues Central and Coastal 2017 & 2019; Portugues Interior, Sanabres, Fisterra & Muxia 2018
I would highly recommend it if you like a challenge, amazing scenery and solitude - we hardly saw a soul the whole route until we got to Muxia.
Stunning scenery, wild coast and few people. I did the Camino Portugues shortly after and it seemed very ordinary. If you are interested I uploaded my trip report to the forum.
I did several different Portuguese caminos. The Central one from Porto, my first one, was full of amazing people on the way, so nature was less important for me there. My fav Portuguese one in terms of nature is Portugues Interior from Viseu. If you like off the beaten tracks, wild nature, solitude, mountains, then you might consider this route for the future. I posted about it here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-portugues-interior-from-viseu-my-blog.62881/ and https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/field-and-mountain-report-from-portugues-interior-june-2018.56758/ We haven't met a single pilgrim for 9 days there untill we reached Sanabres!
 

markgrubb

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances 2016
Camino Del Norte 2017
Camino Mozarabe (Almeria) 2019
Camino Portuguese 2019
I did several different Portuguese caminos. The Central one from Porto, my first one, was full of amazing people on the way, so nature was less important for me there. My fav Portuguese one in terms of nature is Portugues Interior from Viseu. If you like off the beaten tracks, wild nature, solitude, mountains, then you might consider this route for the future. I posted about it here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-portugues-interior-from-viseu-my-blog.62881/ and https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/field-and-mountain-report-from-portugues-interior-june-2018.56758/ We haven't met a single pilgrim for 9 days there untill we reached Sanabres!
Thanks, the interior route from Viseu sounds ideal.
 
Camino(s) past & future
CF Sep/Oct 2015
C Primitivo Sep / Oct 2016
Portugese Sep/Oct 2017
VdlP, Muxia 2018
At the end of my first Camino I happened to walk a day on the Camino dos Faros - by accident, out of negligence and lack of info rather then planning and will :) I now realise that it was an amazing gift from the universe to me! The route walked: Finisterre/Fisterra to Lires in the direction of Muxia - through bushes, brumbles, heather and wild beaches. No maps, no internet, no gadgets, just walking to the north. That was definitely the most memorable day of my whole Camino! I walked the Portugues Central from Porto that time. That Camino ended for me not in Fisterra or Muxia but out there, on the beach in Lires. Where I was overwelmed and swept away by the utter beauty and where my heart, soul and long suffering legs found peace.
My multicoloured day here for you: https://anna-camino2.livejournal.com/4177.html
Bom Caminho!
Fabulous photos. Thank you. I walked this way but you captured its beauty. Ultreia!
 

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