Our (slow) Camino Inglés May 2015

[Tia Valeria]

May 20th-21st:-
We arrived in Ferrol from Cedeira on the bus having already walked 160kms - between Ribadeo and San Andrés de Teixido. Our feet were tired and we had a planned rest day before starting out on the Inglés itself. That said we walked from our hotel down to the harbour and then picked up the signs round to the 'tuning fork' sculpture on the roundabout. Here we turned back up the Avenida de Esteiro into town again and back to our hotel. Total of 9kms - of which just over 3.5 were on the Camino. Rest day!
The begining of the route through town still has diversions in place, mostly well marked. We walked up past the church of San Fransisco, past the dockyards which are 'decorated' with the over-alls etc representing the 2000 plus workers who have lost their jobs here. (Hopefully new contracts will see many re-instated). The marked way turns right at the 'tuning fork' sculpture, but we turned left back to town to prepare for a good start next morning.
We will outline our Camino here with more on the blog Camino 2015. (The blog address is also below each post as part of my signature)

 

[CW86]

We had a free day before we started walking from Ferrol, we were waiting for another pilgrim to arrive, and ended up following the markers to the edge of town before heading back! We were there a few day's after you spending the 25th May in Ferrol before leaving on the 26th for SDC.

 

[Tia Valeria]

@CW86 As we 'progress' we might find that we met, or you passed us without realising we were all 'forum pilgrims'. We did not reach Santiago until 31st May

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 22nd - Ferrol to Narón:-
Having walked the first few kms through Ferrol we set off from our hotel and crossed the Plaza de Esteiro at 9.00am. From here we walked down the Avda de Esteiro to the tuning fork to rejoin the Camino. Sadly the Paseo Maritima was closed off by construction sites so we kept to the Avda do Mar. At the 'double direction' sign we followed Johnnie's guide and kept left. Walking at a comfortable speed we took two hours from Ferrol to O Couto and the church of San Martiño (bocadillo time sat on the stones there), then on to Narón (12.35) , a drink in the Bar Ruta66 and then to the Hotel Kensington (13.00) where we had booked a room. Menu del día (8.50€ each) and later tapas for supper. We visited the albergue at Neda, and met the first pilgrim we have seen to speak to since leaving As Catedrais on our first day from Ribadeo. Sellos are available here from the 'Bus' mobile cafe.
We made the total distance from the harbour to the Kensington 15.1kms on our pedometer.

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 23rd - Narón to Cabañas:-
A reasonably early breakfast so that we set off at 9.15. The start of the walk was hard underfoot again with paving and tarmac, but there was also some boarded walk.
This time we did take a photo of the old house dated 1792 in Neda. We stopped for a drink in the Camino Inglés (formerly the Cafe Hermida) and were pleased to hear that the elderly lady still lives upstairs although she retired from the cafe last year.
Walking through the first wooded section we met, and chatted with, a couple who were back-tracking the Inglés having walked to Santiago on the Camino Portugues. The day warmed up and became fairly hot for the first time.
The final few kms downhill into Cabañas was hard as our feet still felt bruised at times after the paving on the coast paths. However we reached the Hotel Iberia and then had lunch in one of the beach side cafés . (Remembering the hard climb out of Pontedeume we had booked into a hotel in Cabañas. The thinking being that we would 'warm-up' walking across the bridge before tackling the hill.)
After siesta our feet had recovered so we walked along the beach side and to the little supermarket - then sat and admired the view.

(Edit - more now on the blog)

 

[CW86]

We stayed in Cabanas too, not really realising though, we walked over the bridge realised and had to walk back over it again! We walked straight to here from Ferrol.

 

[Tia Valeria]

@CW86 We were the only people in the Hotel Iberia on the 23rd!! where did you stay?

 

[CW86]

@CW86 We were the only people in the Hotel Iberia on the 23rd!! where did you stay?

We stayed in the Hotel Sarga on the 26th Literally we have missed each other by days!

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 24th - Cabañas to Miño:-
We were impressed by the service at the Hotel Iberia as we were the only guests - in a 76 room hotel. Breakfast was served earlier than normal (8am) so we were able to set off at 8.45 to cross the bridge and tackle the hill. This was the first morning that we had been able to set off without wearing our fleeces.
After the long slog up the hill we enjoyed the tracks today which are so much kinder to the feet. The pedometer had been showing longer distances than the guide between Ferrol and Cabañas but from here it was 'accurate' again. (We noticed this last time too).
Arriving in Miño we found it was market day so the signs in the square were obscured by stalls. Following the directions given by the stallholders we reached the cafes and restaurants by the right fork not the left - useful for us. A good lunch then we walked on past the turning for the albergue to the O Cantiño which we had booked by e-mail before leaving home. A very friendly welcome and a good room.

Photos:- A short rest and snack in a picnic area, the only mud patch we had seen and a 'silly-selfie' in a roadside mirror . More on the blog.

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 25th - Miño to Betanzos:-
Setting off from the O Cantiño our first stop was for breakfast in town, then to the supermarket and panaderia to collect some food for our mid-morning snack. Today was the day when we met a number of pilgrims. First were 5 Italians who we met as we were all leaving Miño, and who were under the bridge as we crossed it. Then later we met 3 others, who also overtook us, and who we saw again later in Betanzos.
Following @miguel_gp 's suggestion we followed the boarded walk to Ponte de Porco, then passed over the motorway which itself passes over the Rio Lambre at a height of 598mts above sea level. We stopped at the picnic area for our snack.
The Cafe Navedo was open so we stopped for a drink and a sello (note - closed Tuesdays for a day off), then continued on our way to Betanzos. This was the hottest day so far, our water only just held out and we needed our rehydration drink after siesta.
We had managed to book into the Hotel Garelos, as a last minute change, and it was full of pilgrims. As we had 2 nights in Betanzos we were able to send some of our clothes to be washed instead of doing it all ourselves.

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 26th - Betanzos a.m:-
There were at least 22 other pilgrims at breakfast - we joined the second sitting, then went out sightseeing. This was a rest day!! so we left the pedometer behind.
The churches of Santiago, Santa Maria and San Fransisco were all open, but none have sellos as far as we could see. Returning to the main plaza the church of San Domingo was open and here we found the sello of Santiago on his horse (moved here recently). We made a return visit to Cafe Vega for lunch before siesta and then the O Pasatempo park.
More photos on the blog

 

[alansykes]

May 26th - Betanzos a.m:-
O Pasatempo park.

What a great name for a park. Hope to spend a bit of time there in late November ...

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 26th - Betanzos p.m:-
The O Pasatempo was further out of town than we realised, over the river, then left and past the huge supermarket. The entrance is through the childrens' play area to both the lower level and the covered walkway. We enjoyed a walk round, found the centre of the maze (it does have 'escape' gaps) and then walked along the raised walk to look down on the maze and across to the town. A good way to spend an afternoon followed by supper in the cafe restaurant at the bridge. Then back uphill to pack. Slight panic as our washing was not back, but it was delivered to our room about 30mins later - relief as we wanted a fairly early start next morning.

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 27th - Betanzos to Casa Julia:-
Only 6 other pilgrims at breakfast in the Garelos today at 7.30, one of whom was Melanie who we met again later. We set off at 8.10, uphill with no cooling wind. This was to be the hottest day so far and we were carrying extra water, which put our packs overweight for comfort for a time. At Cos we met 3 Spanish peregrinas, who we saw again several times during the day. We reached the new cafe-bar at Presedo at 12.30 and had drinks (having drunk 2.5lts of our water). Then we had a good menu del día, plus more water and topped up our bottles before carrying on to Casa Julia, which was open at 15.30.
We had drunk another litre of water by then and had more drinks while waiting for Antonio to collect us. Passing the 3 peregrinas, who were heading for Meson Novo, Antonio gave them some bottled water. He was concerned that they had enough water for the next 5kms so went up to the main road and a bar, then took more water back to them before taking us to Meson Novo. Such thoughtfulness is what makes this place so special.
Siesta, drinks, talking to Melanie and the Spanish pilgrims while our washing dried on the line (without actually blowing away) and a good supper. We had been so long on the road without speaking English that we were nearly speaking Spanish to one another and in some ways found it easier talking to the Spanish pilgrims than the English speaking ones we met, which felt a little odd.

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 28th - Casa Julia to Meson do Vento:-
There were at least 10 other pilgrims at 'O Meson Novo' last night, including Melanie who had walked through from Betanzos. After a 7.30 breakfast we were returned to Casa Julia to walk the section back to Meson Novo via Bruma. It was 8.20 when we were left at Casa Julia and there was a cool breeze which made it easier walking. Once again we were carrying snacks and nearly 4 litres of water but this time had some left when we arrived. Good, as there is nowhere to top up along this section. It took us 50 minutes from the bottom of the hill up the road and track to come out between the farm buildings at the top.
Then on towards Meson do Vento past the Cruceiro, on road and track with a stop for a snack in the shade. Near the end there was another stone crossing at a stream and a donkey was tethered at the roadside.
We stopped by the albergue in Bruma to re-tie our boots and the the hospitalero arrived so we were able to have a sello too. Two Spanish pilgrims were waiting there, they had come from Carral having stopped there overnight, and 5 others came and sat nearby. We reached La Ruta in Meson do Vento at 13.20 for lunch then had the afternoon at Meson Novo - siesta, washing etc as usual.

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 29th - Meson do Vento to Calle de Poulo:-
Our plan for today was to walk to Calle de Poulo and then go to Ordes for the night. The new signing from O Meson Novo worked well and we followed the road to rejoin the Camino, which was road walking too at first. A cold drink at the cafe-bar O Porto the site of the pilgrim sculpture and also a huge dinosaur at the other side of the road. There was a cool breeze, some good track and more level walking. . We stopped again for drinks at the bar in Buscas and then at the O Cruceiro in Calle de Poulo (closing day Monday).

The photo of Buscas is typical in many ways of our Camino, we have seen very few people as we actually walk and fewer pilgrims. Our feet still felt bruised easily by the roads so we called a taxi to take us to Ordes rather than road walking for a further 3kms. A good hotel again (the Nogallás) where we had lunch before siesta.

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 29th - Ordes:-
We had a good view of the plaza from our window and there was a little park area with fountains nearby. The church had a font with a scallop shell lid, which was interesting.

We only have 2 more days to go to reach Santiago -

 

[CW86]

I'm enjoying reading this and working out where I was compared to you. We passed the huge dinosaur, which we weren't expecting! and stayed in Buscas on the 28th

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 30th - Calle de Poulo to Sigueiro:-
After breakfast we took the taxi from Ordes back to Calle de Poulo (no-one in sight) and started walking at 8.55. The temperature was good for walking as we set off although it was very warm later.Parts of this stage were hard on our feet again, especially the section with granite chips on the forest track. Four pilgrims passed us on our way and when we reached Sigueiro there were 3 more. We were booked into the new Hostal Sigueiro and here there were a number of other pilgrims as well as (later) a large number in the old hostal which is managed from the new. After a long siesta we sat on the hostal's terrace overlooking the river.

 

[Tia Valeria]

I'm enjoying reading this and working out where I was compared to you. We passed the huge dinosaur, which we weren't expecting! and stayed in Buscas on the 28th

You must have walked through Bruma the same day that we did ( I think). We were there at about 12.50 or so before heading up the hill to Meson do Vento.

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 31st - Sigueiro to Santiago:-
At one point we thought that we might have to split this final stage in two but our feet recover each day so we decided that we would much rather walk right through as planned. Perseverance and determination win the day.
We left Sigueiro at 8.10, after breakfast, with plenty of water and some food. A cool start again and damping slightly as we walked up the first hill so it was ponchos on, then off but we kept the pack covers on. The tracks today were kind to our feet again although finally we were walking on tarmac. There is a good bar just past the back entrance to the San Vicente (it might even be shared with them) so we went for drinks. Really good coffee , some places it has been far too strong for either of us this time . We saw the lone peregrino fromMeson Novo twice during the day, once here in the bar, but only one other peregrino.
Our socks were slipping so we sat by a field side to eat our croissants and changed socks completely. We did not intend to get blisters at this stage!!
It was 13.30 when we finally reached Santiago, the queue was out to the street so we skipped the Pilgrim's Office and went to our hotel (booked with our ferry crossing). Lunch, siesta then back up to Rúa do Vilar. The queue was not too long so we joined it and were registered and received our Compostelas as May pilgrims.
A great sense of relief - we made it; achievement too - we had walked 280kms in all from Ribadeo round the coast and then the Inglés; and gratitude - for all the kindess we have met on the way, the prayers of folk supporting us and last (but not least) our family for only expecting occasional contact and believing that 'no news is good news'.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Santiago:-
With 3 days in Santiago and the journey home there is more to add. However one of the camera cards corrupted so hopefully we can do a 'recovery' on it, then post some more - with photos. The blog needs updating too, when we have time.......

 

[Tia Valeria]

May 31st to June 3rd Santiago :-
Sadly the camera card seems to be non-recoverable so for here we only have 1 photo in Santiago, the cathedral chapel where the English services are held, then nothing until on our way home.

Sunday (31st May)
After receiving our Compostelas we headed to Tertulio's for a drink. No other forum members there but others had been on the preceeding days so we left a message before heading back into town for supper.

On Monday (1st June) we walked up into town for the English Mass, which was exactly right for us this year. Thank you Johnnie and others for this new service for pilgrims. The chapel was packed (67 of us we heard later). Faith was there so we went to the Pilgrim House with her (we had planned to look go while in Santiago) and also met and talked with Sister Marion. Again, thank you for the ministry there. Next was to call on Ivar and we were so pleased to finally meet him. all such lovely people working to help us pilgrims.

Tuesday (2nd June) we returned to the Pilgrim house with our washing which we had asked about the day before. This time Nate was there too and we did have a lovely photo of us all (as a personal reminder) until that card corrupted . Leaving our washing we went to collect my eternity ring from the jeweller, who made it in 24 hours - very special. A plain band with an inset of azabache and from the same jeweller's we had bought my earings from in 2012. Our washing was ready by lunchtime so we could pack for the journey home. Our final meeting was at Evening Prayer when Johnnie was back in Santiago and it was good to see him again.

Wednesday (3rd June) - time to leave Santiago and head back to Ferrol by bus, then the FEVE to Ribadeo and Pravia before going round to Arriondas, Santander and the ferry home. Some of the journey home is worth recording both here on the forum and on the blog, we just need to decide where each bit fits best

 

[CW86]

We arrived in time for the Pilgrim Mass on the 30th. Because of the queues and time we were meeting people we went back on the 31st about 9am for our Compostela. We then spent the day wandering around Santiago before we headed home on the 1st June.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Having lost our photos between Santiago and Pravia here is a brief account of our journey home. You couldn't make it up!!
Wednesday 3rd June - bus from Santiago to Ferrol. Sat in the front seats we could see that the driver approaches the toll barrier at full speed, the bar goes up at the last moment and we go through; not once but several times. Interesting would be an understatement! do these things ever fail to rise?
Thurday 4th June - FEVE Ferrol to Ribadeo. The train had broken down so we were put on a 'tourist advert' single carriage train in Ferrol. We are really sad to have lost these photos as the outside of the carriage was painted on both sides with cows, hórreos, hills etc. The various station-masters were very surprised by it and the replacement conductor actually said "Where did you get this one?" to the driver.
Friday 5th June (it gets worse/better??) - Ribadeo to Pravia. The train arrived late, a first this year as so far they had all been almost on time. Not long after we had a slow stretch, then a stop - in the middle of nowhere. The stop and start into Navia. Here the conductor said we all had to continue by road..... However the taxis were all called and sent us all on; one for a lady going to Gijon; the 2 of us to Pravia; two other taxis for 8 ladies going more locally and one more for the driver and conductor. The only sad one left behind was the cyclist, heading for Oviedo, as none of the taxis could take a cycle. The train was left in Navia and the taxis were all paid for us by RENFE/FEVE. How to reach Pravia very fast and right to the hotel as it was on the road into town before the FEVE station.
Monday 9th June - Pravia to Arriondas. If anything else went wrong we could at least get a bus... However this was all OK and the hotel opened for us
Tuesday 10th June - Arriondas to Santander. Again all went well as did the ferry home with a calm crossing which went past the lighthouses along the French coast , then really rough crossing the Channel .

The time in Pravia will go on the blog - but our thanks to @angulero for suggesting a trip there and to Santianes

 

[natefaith]

Oh no! Sorry your camera card got corrupted. I think we still have your email - I'll send you the photo of us. We loved meeting both of you!
Faith

 

[Tia Valeria]

Oh no! Sorry your camera card got corrupted. I think we still have your email - I'll send you the photo of us. We loved meeting both of you!
Faith

Thank you - for the time spent with you in Santiago and for the photos.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks, Tia, this is such great information. As we baby boomers gradually move over to the slower, more relaxed side, posts like this are really invaluable! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola Laurie. Have you read the first part of the saga? Starts with our daughter's post (#15) when we sent a text home. Ruta do Mar-Camino Inglés 2015
Also on the Camino 2015 blog