Ourense - Santiago

[JohnOz]

Greetings fellow pilgrims,

I'm very new to this great forum and enjoying the advice of those who have made the journey.

I will be arriving into Ourense on Sunday 15 March and then departing for Santiago on Monday 16 March.

Would love to hear from anyone that might be doing similar.or anyone that might offer any advice whatsoever. More advice/hints/tips I get the better. Latest accommodation suggestions gratefully received.

Regards from Australia. Look forward to hearing from anyone. Would be particularly good to share a wine with someone that might be reading this.

John

 

[nalod]

John I passed that way on those dates exactly three years ago. It is a beautiful route and you will have a lovely journey. Unfortunately it will be about mid May when I will be passing by again, when I am doing the Camino Levante.
Just pay extra attention on leaving Ourense, I took the left hand route and did get lost but survived. Use some type of guide book and take you time. Enjoy.

Dermot

 

[JohnOz]

T

John I passed that way on those dates exactly three years ago. It is a beautiful route and you will have a lovely journey. Unfortunately it will be about mid May when I will be passing by again, when I am doing the Camino Levante.
Just pay extra attention on leaving Ourense, I took the left hand route and did get lost but survived. Use some type of guide book and take you time. Enjoy.

Dermot

hank

 

[JohnOz]

Thank you for replying Dermot. Appreciate your advice. Is leaving Ourense on the right path that difficult?

Any suggestions on a guide book? Hopefully I can pick one up in Santiago?

Best,

J

 

[Paschulke]

Welcome to the forums, John!

Leaving Ourense was like leaving most towns a little difficult. But then as Dermot said it's a beautiful way.

We made one stop after that, we decided to stay in Laxe, a place which many pilgrims neglect in spite of the next place which is bigger and has more stores. Laxe didn't have any, but we could buy some supplies in the restaurant at the road, a wonderful place with delicious food and nice service. The hostal is a peculiar concrete bunker, but the hospitalera was really sweet, especially in comparison to the grumpy dude at the hostal in Ourense.

 

[nalod]

I used two guides this is an on-line link to one and is probably sufficient, you will be able to instantly download it and print it, http://www.viadelaplataguide.net/
When you read through this you may find it is enough for you.
The other book is by Alison Raju, Google it.
Leaving Ourense is uphill but it did not pose a problem.
Dermot

 

[JohnOz]

Thanks to you both for your comments. I'm really looking forward to the 'adventure'

Regards,

J

 

[peregrina2000]

John I passed that way on those dates exactly three years ago. It is a beautiful route and you will have a lovely journey. Unfortunately it will be about mid May when I will be passing by again, when I am doing the Camino Levante.
Just pay extra attention on leaving Ourense, I took the left hand route and did get lost but survived. Use some type of guide book and take you time. Enjoy.

Dermot

There were quite a few posts on this left hand vs. right hand route a few years ago. I think Tom's description was the clearest on this post: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/leaving-ourense-which-way-to-go.5714/

I've now walked that way two times, the most recent in 2013, and I never saw the turn-off for the right hand route. It must be the case that either the markings are now all pointing to the "left hand route" or all the people I met up with that night were as spacey as I was, because none of us saw a split, and we all came on the left hand route.

The left hand route goes by the Ourense bus barn, and when we passed it at the crack of dawn all the buses were leaving for the day. We got a huge send-off of honks and waves from a lot of drivers.

 

[Me Fein]

Bring a swimsuit there is a great public thermal bath in Ourense. Closes for siesta but open in the evening
Buen camino
Maura

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I only know the right-hand path. It takes off the main drag at a big gas station. The first day seems like it goes uphill ALL DAY! But I met a little boy in a tiny village somewhere along that way, who shared with me a wonderful treasure: a full set of Pittsburgh Pirates bubblegum cards!

 

[alansykes]

I've done the left hand turn three times and right once, both are quite well marked. I think next time I'll do the right way, as there is a killer climb on a busy narrow road on the left. Right is still steep but a longer less steep rise.

I'd especially recommend staying at Oseira, a wonderful highland palace where a small but thriving community of monks keep the huge ancient monastery alive. Graham Greene was a regular visitor and parts of the film version of Monsignor Quixote were filmed there. Do go to vespers if you stay. The albergues at Cea, Oseira, A Laxe and Outiero (an hour past Ponte Ulla) are all pretty decent. The pulpería at Cea is great. Take food if staying at Oseira or Outeiro as there are no restaurants (open) nearby - or, at least, the Oseira bars closed early in December.

 

[peregrina2000]

I've done the left hand turn three times and right once, both are quite well marked. I think next time I'll do the right way, as there is a killer climb on a busy narrow road on the left. Right is still steep but a longer less steep rise.

Thanks for the info on the left hand alternative. Reb says the split is near a gas station. It'd be great if someone who walks in the next few months could post a picture where that split is, because I would really like to give it a try the next time and I'm just not sure where to find it. But this isn't the first time I've had no clue about a place that everyone else finds to be very well marked.

I only know the right-hand path. It takes off the main drag at a big gas station. The first day seems like it goes uphill ALL DAY! But I met a little boy in a tiny village somewhere along that way, who shared with me a wonderful treasure: a full set of Pittsburgh Pirates bubblegum cards!

Reb, do you remember if you passed the Ourense bus barn on your left? (I'm trying to figure out where the split might be on the path I remember).

I also remember that it had rained the last time I left Ourense and the hospitalero warned us that the left hand route would be much muddier. So I was looking for the turn to the right and still never saw it. Do you think it's the case that the RH has more asphalt and less mud? Less asphalt would be a reason to stick with the LH route, but I know the LH route has that uphill climb all on a road.

Thanks, buen camino, Laurie

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Sorry, Laurie. It's been a very long time since I walked that way, and I did that bit in pre-dawn darkness. I don't remember the bus barn.

 

[alansykes]

Hi Laurie,

The fork is almost immediately after you cross the Minho, and before you get to the RENFE station. The arrows point both ways where you turn right onto the Av de Santiago (or straight ahead for the train and bus stations); you then follow the Av de Santiago (the N525, soon to become all too familiar) for 1km before veering slightly right onto the Camino Real and on to Tamallancos. Another advantage of turning right is that I'm fairly sure you get off tarmac very quickly, whereas it's about 7km if you take the left. The downside is that it's 1-2km longer.

I think both are fine, but the traffic on the left spooked me slightly last time, even early on a Sunday morning - at one point two cars were coming at each other at high speed on the narrow road, with me in fear of becoming a side garnish to their metal sandwich.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

the hospitalero warned us that the left hand route would be much muddier.

I do not recall any mud. I think it was mostly roadway and a very steep grade. Cesar is on the "left" route.

 

[Mark Francis Auchincloss]

Yes it really is a great section of the Ruta de la Plata. After crossing the roman bridge so it is easy to leave Ourense behind (make sure you see Paradise Porch and the statue of Santiago in the Cathedral ), I would take the camino to the left before the railway station and although you head along at first the Vigo road out of town passing alot of industrial building you soon start a steep climb into some beautiful wooded countryside to Cea. As you leave Cea you should take the camino to the right towards Oseira Monastery which for me is one of the highlights so make sure you go on the tour of the interior including the 12th century cloister with Padre Luis. Even the last day from Ponte Ulla is a beautiful walk into Santiago so all the stages are ideal passing ancient oak woodlands, mountain scenery and stunning views. The food and drink stops are equally memorable !!

 

[miguel_gp]

.... It'd be great if someone who walks in the next few months could post a picture where that split is, because I would really like to give it a try the next time and I'm just not sure where to find it......

https://goo.gl/maps/C3pE6