Ourense-Santiago

[Jessica22]

Hello all!
I'm planning to walk from Ourense to Santiago in a couple of weeks, I thought I could do it in 3-4 days. That seems feasible right? I'm 26 and very accustomed to walking and hiking.
I was also toying with the idea of walking the other way and ending in Ourense to enjoy the thermal baths at the end of the walk rather than the start. I know it's not traditional to be walking away from Santiago but for me its all about the experience.. thoughts?
Any advice in general for this particular route?
Thank you!

Hola a tod@s!
Estoy planeando andar de Ourense a Santiago dentro de dos semanas, y pienso que podría hacerlo en 3-4 días. Seria posible verdad? Tengo 26 años y estoy muy acostumbrada andar y al senderismo.
Tambien, estaba pensando hacerlo al revés, terminando en Ourense para aprovechar las termas al final de mi camino. Se que no es nada tradicional andar hacia fuera de Santiago pero para mi lo mas importante es la experiencia. Que os opinais?
Alguna comentario/consejo para esa ruta en general?
Gracias!

 

[Castilian]

Hi Jessica22! Welcome to the fórum!

I'm planning to walk from Ourense to Santiago in a couple of weeks, I thought I could do it in 3-4 days. That seems feasible right?

Yes, but it's more than 105 kms so I would allow 4 days.

I was also toying with the idea of walking the other way and ending in Ourense to enjoy the thermal baths at the end of the walk rather than the start. I know it's not traditional to be walking away from Santiago but for me its all about the experience.. thoughts?

They are two different experiences. Walking to Santiago de Compostela, you meet other pilgrims, share with them, walk with them (if you want), you may make new friends, you have the route marked/signed and if you miss the right track, anyone will point you in the good direction to Santiago de Compostela. OTOH, walking backwards, you'll walk alone, the route isn't marked/signed (AFAIK) so you would have to figure it out by yourself, you'll probably find well-intentioned locals telling you that you are walking the wrong way and putting you in what they think is the good direction (i.e.: towards Santiago de Compostela), meetings with pilgrims will be brief because you'll be walking opposite directions (e.g.: you couldn't share and/or walk with them next day too if you wanted or you couldn't continue on the road that interesting talk you started on a bar along the route) and you wouldn't get a Compostela (take a look at http://peregrinossantiago.es/eng/pilgrimage/the-compostela if you don't know what's that).

In other words, you should ask yourself: Do you want to make a well-signed pilgrimage with other pilgrims (deciding once on the spot how much you want to interact with them)? or Do you want to make a non-signed hike by yourself?

If you are so interested in going to the thermal baths at the end of what you call the walk and you ended your walk in Santiago de Compostela, you could always take a train or bus back to Ourense and enjoy the thermal baths...

 

[lovingkindness]

...I was also toying with the idea of walking the other way and ending in Ourense to enjoy the thermal baths at the end of the walk rather than the start. I know it's not traditional to be walking away from Santiago but for me its all about the experience.. thoughts?
Any advice in general for this particular route?
Thank you!...!

Hola, @Jessica22. I have walked this trail in both directions. It is beautiful whichever way you choose.

Ourense - Santiago de Compostela: Day One is a lengthy uphill hike from the river.

Santiago de Compostela - Ourense: Day One (Nov, 2011), it was a challenge finding the signs out of Santiago d C Day. Otherwise I enjoyed the experience. Most days I met pilgrims walking in the opposite direction.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

If you walk back from Santiago to enjoy the thermal baths, you're not a pilgrim. You shouldn't stay in dedicated pilgrim albergues, just out of principle. Unless, of course, you are on your way to Fatima.

 

[peregrina2000]

I think that walking "backwards" on the Sanabres to Ourense would be quite a challenge. You may already know this, but the caminos in Spain are marked only in one direction, towards Santiago, not like the French GR routes. I'm sure you would find your way, but it might be a bit frustrating.

 

[Jessica22]

I think that walking "backwards" on the Sanabres to Ourense would be quite a challenge. You may already know this, but the caminos in Spain are marked only in one direction, towards Santiago, not like the French GR routes. I'm sure you would find your way, but it might be a bit frustrating.

Very good point thank you!

 

[Jessica22]

Hola, @Jessica22. I have walked this trail in both directions. It is beautiful whichever way you choose.

Ourense - Santiago de Compostela: Day One is a lengthy uphill hike from the river.

Santiago de Compostela - Ourense: Day One (Nov, 2011), it was a challenge finding the signs out of Santiago d C Day. Otherwise I enjoyed the experience. Most days I met pilgrims walking in the opposite direction.

Thank you for your reply! Yes i'm hearing that finding signs (if i walk towards ourense) can be a bit tricky!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hola, @Jessica22. I have walked this trail in both directions. It is beautiful whichever way you choose.

Ourense - Santiago de Compostela: Day One is a lengthy uphill hike from the river.

Santiago de Compostela - Ourense: Day One (Nov, 2011), it was a challenge finding the signs out of Santiago d C Day. Otherwise I enjoyed the experience. Most days I met pilgrims walking in the opposite direction.

Lovingkindness you are certainly a much more skilled pilgrim than I. I get lost going in the right direction, I shudder to think what would happen to me going in the "wrong direction."

 

[Jessica22]

Hi Jessica22! Welcome to the fórum!



Yes, but it's more than 105 kms so I would allow 4 days.



They are two different experiences. Walking to Santiago de Compostela, you meet other pilgrims, share with them, walk with them (if you want), you may make new friends, you have the route marked/signed and if you miss the right track, anyone will point you in the good direction to Santiago de Compostela. OTOH, walking backwards, you'll walk alone, the route isn't marked/signed (AFAIK) so you would have to figure it out by yourself, you'll probably find well-intentioned locals telling you that you are walking the wrong way and putting you in what they think is the good direction (i.e.: towards Santiago de Compostela), meetings with pilgrims will be brief because you'll be walking opposite directions (e.g.: you couldn't share and/or walk with them next day too if you wanted or you couldn't continue on the road that interesting talk you started on a bar along the route) and you wouldn't get a Compostela (take a look at http://peregrinossantiago.es/eng/pilgrimage/the-compostela if you don't know what's that).

In other words, you should ask yourself: Do you want to make a well-signed pilgrimage with other pilgrims (deciding once on the spot how much you want to interact with them)? or Do you want to make a non-signed hike by yourself?

If you are so interested in going to the thermal baths at the end of what you call the walk and you ended your walk in Santiago de Compostela, you could always take a train or bus back to Ourense and enjoy the thermal baths...

Thank you for your great reply, you raise some very good points, especially about the lack of signs (if i'm to walk in the opposite direction). It makes much more sense to walk towards Santiago and yes, I can always get the bus back to Ourense to enjoy the baths after

 

[Jessica22]

So new question walking from Ourense to Santiago in 4 days, where would you recommend stopping each night? The camino sanabres shows ourense-cea, cea-dozon, dozon-silleda, silleda-ponte ulla, ponte ulla- Santiago. But is it possible to do it with one less stop? I can manage around 6-8 hours of walking per day.

 

[peregrina2000]

So new question walking from Ourense to Santiago in 4 days, where would you recommend stopping each night? The camino sanabres shows ourense-cea, cea-dozon, dozon-silleda, silleda-ponte ulla, ponte ulla- Santiago. But is it possible to do it with one less stop? I can manage around 6-8 hours of walking per day.

Here's what I did a few years ago (post is here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...s-construction-and-misc-from-june-2013.19112/)

Ourense - Castro Dozon (36)
To Silleda (29)
To Outeiro (26)
To Santiago (short short short, maybe 16)

This means you won't get to the monastery at Oseira, If you're interested in that alternative, I walked that way on a previous Camino and can give you suggestions. Stages here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-vdlp.8961/

 

[Jessica22]

Here's what I did a few years ago (post is here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...s-construction-and-misc-from-june-2013.19112/)

Ourense - Castro Dozon (36)
To Silleda (29)
To Outeiro (26)
To Santiago (short short short, maybe 16)

This means you won't get to the monastery at Oseira, If you're interested in that alternative, I walked that way on a previous Camino and can give you suggestions. Stages here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-vdlp.8961/

Thank you! Great help

 

[IngridF]

First day out is long and hard steep climb, not many fountains. Alternative to Oseira is well worth it. Next stage is either 10 km or 35+, I took the longer one and me old body suffered in the heat (40+ in early August), little shade and even less fountains. Great short Camino!

 

[Jessica22]

First day out is long and hard steep climb, not many fountains. Alternative to Oseira is well worth it. Next stage is either 10 km or 35+, I took the longer one and me old body suffered in the heat (40+ in early August), little shade and even less fountains. Great short Camino!

Thanks for the reply, I'm thinking to go straight from ourense to castro dozon via Cea.. will miss the monastery this time...

 

[lovingkindness]

Lovingkindness you are certainly a much more skilled pilgrim than I. I get lost going in the right direction, I shudder to think what would happen to me going in the "wrong direction."

...whichever way I go there are times I am lost. Is there such a thing as a skilled pilgrim?

RightthgiЯRonggnorW

 

[jprogers]

Hi I too am walking Ourense to Santiago but using 5 days. So I have discovered from the online sources and blogs that there are 2 ways from Ourense to Cea..one to the left and one to the right. Both have big hills to climb. Has anyone done both as I would like to know if they are both well signed/marked. Does one have more bars?? I think Peregrina2000 has done both. I haven't got an english guide yet but the Spanish online ones seem ok. I am used to CSJ guides which are quite exacting.
regards Jill.

 

[lovingkindness]

So I have discovered from the online sources and blogs that there are 2 ways from Ourense to Cea..one to the left and one to the right. Both have big hills to climb. Has anyone done both as I would like to know if they are both well signed/marked..

..Both times I walked the Via Sanabres I took the route via Oseira monastery, a wonderful hike. Heading to Santiago (Dec, 2009) I overnighted at the albergues in Cea then Castro Dozón. It was winter and in those days the monastery albergue was too cold for pilgrims. On the reverse journey (Nov, 2011) I overnighted at the monastery albergue which by then had been renovated.

5 years have passed since I followed these trails so I wont comment on signing, except to say that between the Oseira monastery and Castro Dozón, if I recall rightly, it was a bit of a challenge...

 

[SYates]

So new question walking from Ourense to Santiago in 4 days, where would you recommend stopping each night? The camino sanabres shows ourense-cea, cea-dozon, dozon-silleda, silleda-ponte ulla, ponte ulla- Santiago. But is it possible to do it with one less stop? I can manage around 6-8 hours of walking per day.

You can read about my stages this spring here https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-february-abril-2016.38377/page-2#post-403786 I am a much slower walker, but it might get you some ideas.

I especially would recommend to walk the two kilometres out of Cea to the private albergue in Cotelas (reservation recommended). Buen Camino, SY

 

[LTfit]

I have done it twice in 4 days and once in 3 but the last day was about 45 km if I recall. It was also the only time I didn't go through Oseira. I had planned on staying in Outeiro but when I got there it was closed (before 13:00) and I felt good so I just continued on to Santiago. Glad I did because the following day it started to rain and didn't stop for days.
Orense - Castro Dozón
Castro Dozón - Silleda
Silleda - Santiago

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Here's what I did a few years ago (post is here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...s-construction-and-misc-from-june-2013.19112/)

Ourense - Castro Dozon (36)
To Silleda (29)
To Outeiro (26)
To Santiago (short short short, maybe 16)

This means you won't get to the monastery at Oseira, If you're interested in that alternative, I walked that way on a previous Camino and can give you suggestions. Stages here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-vdlp.8961/

DO NOT STAY IN OUTEIRO!! Just stayed there three nights ago, and it was the most horrible experience I have ever had in any Albergue! And all other 16 pilgrims felt the same!
Here's why: Pilar the hospitalera refused to turn the heat on, though several pilgrims asked her to - myself included, because it was a very cold night. There were no blankets available, either and she claimed that all the Xunta de Galicia albergues stopped using heat on the 1st of May (not true in Cea which is also a XofG Albergue) and that they no longer had blankets due to bed bugs; she said they had to burn all mattresses, pillows and bedding. My observation is that the Albergue is not very clean and the lack of cleanliness contributed to the bed bug infestation. Both the men and women's bathrooms did not have enough toilet paper. When an elderly pilgrim arrived and requested a lower bunk bed because he had arthritis, Pilar refused to open the second dormitory to accommodate him.
There were 2 French pilgrims who made some written remarks about the hospitalera's lack of hospitality and kindness on the notebook for comments, but as soon as Pilar became aware of this, she collected the notebook and took it with her when she left, but not before getting into a loud argument with these 2 pilgrims and another lady.

Tomorrow morning I will be reporting her to the Xunta de Galicia, which happens to be right across the street from my hotel

Right before Outeiro, and shortly after it too, there are other reasonable sleeping options.

 

[lovingkindness]

Lovingkindness you are certainly a much more skilled pilgrim than I. I get lost going in the right direction, I shudder to think what would happen to me going in the "wrong direction."

Hello, again, Laurie. I hope my last reply didn't sound snippy...I didn't intend it to. I get a bit carried away with words . Usually, when I find myself heading in the wrong direction I turn around and head back to the last place where I saw a sign then I try again. If hours have passed and I see a village looming on the horizon I might head there. Often there is a road close by to a pilgrims trail which I can follow...

 

[lovingkindness]

Hello, @manoll. Did you pass by the monastery on your way to Santiago dC? Did you meet Brother Luis at Oseira? An interesting fellow. He was my hospitalero 'back in the day'. Here's how it was in 2011:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/staying-oseira-monastery.10905/#post-105249

Cheers
LK

 

[LTfit]

Re Outeiro: I stayed there twice as it makes for an early arrival in Santiago as it is only 16 km. What is unfortunate about the albergue situation is this: Pilar runs it as if it were hers - I assume that she has a special deal with the Junta - and takes advantage of the situation. There are no other services around. She has a little wooden house in the back where she keeps food and cooks for pilgrims. The prices are above market prices and I have always found her unpleasant unless you are willing to order food with her.

What a group of us did both times was buy food at the Día in Ponte Ulla and cook together. There are just enough utensils in the kitchen to do this. She won't like it but you of course have the right to do this. Some people stay in Ponte Ulla.

 

[alansykes]

DO NOT STAY IN OUTEIRO!! Just stayed there three nights ago, and it was the most horrible experience I have ever had in any Albergue! And all other 16 pilgrims felt the same!
Here's why: Pilar the hospitalera refused to turn the heat on, though several pilgrims asked her to - myself included, because it was a very cold night. There were no blankets available, either and she claimed that all the Xunta de Galicia albergues stopped using heat on the 1st of May (not true in Cea which is also a XofG Albergue) and that they no longer had blankets due to bed bugs; she said they had to burn all mattresses, pillows and bedding. My observation is that the Albergue is not very clean and the lack of cleanliness contributed to the bed bug infestation. Both the men and women's bathrooms did not have enough toilet paper. When an elderly pilgrim arrived and requested a lower bunk bed because he had arthritis, Pilar refused to open the second dormitory to accommodate him.
There were 2 French pilgrims who made some written remarks about the hospitalera's lack of hospitality and kindness on the notebook for comments, but as soon as Pilar became aware of this, she collected the notebook and took it with her when she left, but not before getting into a loud argument with these 2 pilgrims and another lady.

Tomorrow morning I will be reporting her to the Xunta de Galicia, which happens to be right across the street from my hotel

Right before Outeiro, and shortly after it too, there are other reasonable sleeping options.

Does sound as if you caught Pilar on a very off day. I've stayed three times in the albergue at O Outeiro and found it fine. Each time was in December and there wasn't much heating and it went off at 10pm, but I'm sure there were blankets, as I never carry a sleeping bag, so I would remember a chilly night. Twice I've had the albergue to myself, and one time was with my Estonian friend: Pilar didn't offer to feed us, and anyway we had provisions from the Ponte Ulla Día. It is nice to be able to get to Santiago so quickly, but I like Ponte Ulla very much as well. The one time I stayed there (in the private "albergue" in the truck stop - single simple en suite room 10 or 12€, if memory serves) I had a really excellent meal at the Villa Verde, in town near the river. Quite pricey but very tasty and good value (it has a "bib gourmande" in the Michelin, meaning "good food at reasonable prices"). Looking forward to eating there again this autumn, dv.

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hello, @manoll. Did you pass by the monastery on your way to Santiago dC? Did you meet Brother Luis at Oseira? An interesting fellow. He was my hospitalero 'back in the day'. Here's how it was in 2011:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/staying-oseira-monastery.10905/#post-105249

Cheers
LK

Hi LK, I'm sorry to say that though I had planned on doing just that, the weather stopped me from going ahead to the monastery. I love staying in a monastery, I find it's such a sobering experience.

Ultreïa!

Mary

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Re Outeiro: I stayed there twice as it makes for an early arrival in Santiago as it is only 16 km. What is unfortunate about the albergue situation is this: Pilar runs it as if it were hers - I assume that she has a special deal with the Junta - and takes advantage of the situation. There are no other services around. She has a little wooden house in the back where she keeps food and cooks for pilgrims. The prices are above market prices and I have always found her unpleasant unless you are willing to order food with her.

What a group of us did both times was buy food at the Día in Ponte Ulla and cook together. There are just enough utensils in the kitchen to do this. She won't like it but you of course have the right to do this. Some people stay in Ponte Ulla.

Whatever her deal is, I'm pretty sure it's profitable only to her, I did find out later that she cannot sell meals at all, simply because she/the Albergue does/do not have a license to do so.
It was agreed by all that she was a "bruja nefasta", - basically very witchy!
I did report her today to the Departamento de Turismo on an official form that was stamped and signed, with a copy given to me. According to them I will receive a written response from the Department

To all who are considering OUTEIRA, RE-CONSIDER and stay at PONTE ULLA!!! From everything I've heard it's a marvelous experience

Ultreïa!

Mary

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Does sound as if you caught Pilar on a very off day. I've stayed three times in the albergue at O Outeiro and found it fine. Each time was in December and there wasn't much heating and it went off at 10pm, but I'm sure there were blankets, as I never carry a sleeping bag, so I would remember a chilly night. Twice I've had the albergue to myself, and one time was with my Estonian friend: Pilar didn't offer to feed us, and anyway we had provisions from the Ponte Ulla Día. It is nice to be able to get to Santiago so quickly, but I like Ponte Ulla very much as well. The one time I stayed there (in the private "albergue" in the truck stop - single simple en suite room 10 or 12€, if memory serves) I had a really excellent meal at the Villa Verde, in town near the river. Quite pricey but very tasty and good value (it has a "bib gourmande" in the Michelin, meaning "good food at reasonable prices"). Looking forward to eating there again this autumn, dv.

From what I found out later many pilgrims who stayed in Ponte Ulla were extremely happy with everything in the Albergue. Their private rooms with a private bathroom cost €10 each!
There was also a bar/restaurant on site!!

Choose Ponte Ulla and you'll be glad you did.

Ultreïa!

Mary

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hello, @manoll. Did you pass by the monastery on your way to Santiago dC? Did you meet Brother Luis at Oseira? An interesting fellow. He was my hospitalero 'back in the day'. Here's how it was in 2011:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/staying-oseira-monastery.10905/#post-105249

Cheers
LK

Hello again Lovingkindness! I did read your post about your Oseira Monastery experience with Brother Luis. It really seems to have been such a pleasant and memorable event of your Camino back in 2011! How fortunate you were to be there

Ultreïa!

Mary

 

[lovingkindness]

Hi there, @manoll. I've stayed in Outeiro twice, the first time with sleeping bag, the second time under blankets given with a smile......the only unpleasantness was a vicious little dog.

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hi there, @manoll. I've stayed in Outeiro twice, the first time with sleeping bag, the second time under blankets given with a smile......the only unpleasantness was a vicious little dog.

Lucky you! Pilar must've liked you
She certainly was nasty to all 15-17 pilgrims there on Saturday night

 

[jprogers]

Hi Manol I dont know if you can remember the part that is just beween Ourense and Cea....The guides mention 2 possibilities from Ourense and since I will have a limited guides from the internet
1. did you walk to the left hand or right hand trail from Ourense ..it diverges early on
2. was the path you took well signed


Regards Jill

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hi jprogers, Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but I just left Santiago yesterday afternoon and now I'm spending the next week in the Canary Islands. Hopefully you haven't left yet. I went by the Nicanor Carballo statue in the direction to Vigo, which is shorter You'll have a stiff climb to Costiña de Caned and then to Cima da Costa. I chose this route because when I left Ourense it had been raining for a few days.
¡Ultreïa y Buen Camino!