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Padre's Primitivo

PadreQ

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Primitivo 2021
Arrived safely this afternoon in Oviedo. And I am checked in at Hostal Arcos. I just got back in from visiting the cathedral and Camara Sancta. Quite nice! I did manage to mail my little carry on bag to Santiago. My Spanish is very inadequate for anything but rudimentary interchanges. But the senora at the Correos hung with me and we worked it out. It is a magnificent weather day here today. Madrid was drizzly. But in Oviedo, partly cloudy and warm. On the Camino en la manana.
 
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Oh, this is WONDERFUL!! Susanna will arrive in Santiago tomorrow, but the Camino Primitivo never ends, because PadreQ will start out tomorrow! Can't wait to hear how it goes for you, Padre. Buen camino. Laurie
 
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Laurie, I did remember you to the proprietor at Arcos. It was marvelous to watch understanding come to his face as I tried to communicate your greetings. You were well remembered. My days and nights are still a little mixed up, so I am up earlier than I intended. I am going to wait to catch desayuno at the cafe Magdalena downstairs at 6.30 before heading out. I have seen a few other pilgrims around. And there are others staying here as well I was told.

I was struck yesterday by the contrast of colors between Madrid and Asturias. Browns and ochres in Madrid and green green green still here in Oviedo. I visited the Cathedral yesterday and the Camara Sancta. Mailed a few things to myself in Santiago de Compostela. And just walked about a bit taking Oviedo in. But I did not get up to the Naranco churches, desafortunadamente. Yet another fine reason to return.

More later as wifi is found.
 
Buen Camino and enjoy Asturias beautiful !
 
Buen Camino. You are bringing back so many glorious memories and wishes that we were back there again!
 
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Buen camino, Padre!

If you have time tomorrow morning, consider visiting Santa María del Naranco, San Miguel de Lillo y San Julián, three magnificient pre-romanesque churches, and then take a short first day to Escamplero instead of following the "standard" stages. Buen camino!!!
 
Unfortunately, Tuesday was a pretty wet and grim morning. So I bypassed the Naranco Churches. I fell in with a couple of guys heading out of Oviedo so on we pressed for Grado and then for San Juan de Villapañada. I was not really ready for the grade out of Grado and my camelback ran dry halfway up the hill. But make it we finally did. Domingo, the hospitalero passed us and shouted a word of encouragement to us. On our arrival, he greeted us warmly, making sure that we all had cold fresh water to drink, got us settled in, and washed our clothes for us. My friend and I had picked up some meager provisions in Grado. So we made ourselves some supper. Domingo, it turns out, makes supper! The Albergue filled to overflowing, but everyone was fed and sleeping arrangements were sorted. A couple of mattresses appeared for the latecomers.

This morning started with the hellacious climb and descent and then through Cornellana and up to Salas. I stopped in Salas for a bocadillo and an Aquarius. This humidity is wiping me out. Asturias sure ain't Texas! And then it was the amazing ascent up to Porciles. I ran dry again just as I was coming into Porciles. But, thanks be to God and Santiago, there, just when I needed it, were a patch of blackberries. They gave me enough of a lift to get to Bodenaya. Then it started to rain. It rained me into town and Alex was kind enough to step outside and waive me into his Albergue. It ended up that two others from San Juan made it here tonight. One before me and one after. Alex was very welcoming. Did our laundry. Fed us a fine meal. And promises to wake us in the morning to desayuno. We had good company at supper. A fine end to a pretty challenging physical day.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Hola

Sounds wonderful and bring back good memories of the Primitivo.
q/Did our laundry/q.
The luxury every pilgrim can dream of while walking.
Thank you for sharing your experiences and continue to do so.

Buen Camino
Lettinggo
 
Padre appears indeed in Alex's photos for today, happy as a lark!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
I had a difficult night last night in Berducedo. Physically, just wrung out with aching knees. The private albergue was very overpriced for very little services too. 15 euros is too much compared to what others have done for much less. I took a taxi to Fonsagrada this morning. My knees would have been wrecked by the descent to the dam. I am in a nice Hostal with good services for just a little more than I paid yesterday. I will rejoin my walking companions tomorrow afternoon in Pardon. This will give me essentially two days of recuperation time.
 

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Hope you'll get enough recuperation time for your knees to proceed the walk. I don't envy you for the possible knee-pain, but for sure I envy you for being there ;)

Take care. And Ultreia!
 
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Take it easy! When do you expect to arrive in Santiago? We are both in the office daily. Three days morning shift then 3 days afternoon shift. Tomorrow we start 3 days mornings. Then Friday, 3 days afternoons. Buen Camino! Anne
 
I am in O Cadabo tonight. What an outrageous way to end the day, the hill down into town made my knees scream again. Tomorrow is another long slog to Lugo, 31 km or so. I think I can manage. The photo was this morning, climbing out of Padron. Anne, I imagine I will make it by Sabado, if all holds up. My flight home is the 15th.
 

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Looking back up at Montouto pass
 

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It is a long way to Lugo (we made it 33.5kms total from Cadabo) with a descent and then a steep climb up steps into town. If your knees are hurting it might be worth thinking of stopping in Castroverde (10km) - pension Cortés and I think now an albergue too. Then Lugo next day (23.5). After that the route is kinder most of the way. I found that knee straps, under the knee help, Terry prefers over the knee. Hope you can take care of your knees, and get a bus into Lugo if needed maybe. Lugo itself is the 100km point.
Buen Camino
 
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Hi, padre, nice pictures! I have occasional knee pain, and what I've found is that the very cheap and simple "rodilleras" (elastic knee stocking) are quite helpful. Of course, I don't know what your ailment is, but at 2- 5 euros, it might be worth the investment. I posted a picture of mine on this thread:

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...-your-advice-as-i-prepared.19332/#post-143777

Good luck, and enjoy Lugo, whether you reach it in one day or two! Laurie
 
Thanks for the photoLaurie, ours are similar - 'elastic' tube which we can cut to the right length and comes in differing knee fittings. Good to know the Spanish if we need new ones while walking.
 
I feel your courage and your determination to walk through your pain.

Go well and safely, PadreQ.

Buen camino.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I am in Lugo this morning. We got in late yesterday. Pushing on slowly today.
 
So, just to bring all up to date. I am in St Irene private albergue tonight. What a marvelous place. Fire in the stove, hake supper to die for. It doesn't get much better than this. Even have clean clothes! And into Santiago de Compostela tomorrow. What a wonderful experience, but I am ready to be done walking. But tonight, sleeping on sheets! Buen camino!
 

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Hi, Padre,
So glad you have been able to carry on. I have stayed in Santa Irene on several occasions and have always found it clean and relaxing. I think I had the same dinner, too!
Wishing you a grand finale into Santiago, Laurie
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hope to see you later today. We are on duty from 2 to 7 pm.
Anne
 
Congrats PadreQ
Well done.
I do hope you have enjoyed your Camino and Santiago de Compostela.

P.S. - Will you carry on to Finisterra?;)

Buen Camino!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Congratulations PadreQ.
 
Congrats! I have so enjoyed reading your updates alone the way :)
 
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Blessings on you all. I am heading home tomorrow. A gloriously difficult route, but what an amazing experience!
 

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Hi, padre, nice pictures! I have occasional knee pain, and what I've found is that the very cheap and simple "rodilleras" (elastic knee stocking) are quite helpful. Of course, I don't know what your ailment is, but at 2- 5 euros, it might be worth the investment. I posted a picture of mine on this thread:

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...-your-advice-as-i-prepared.19332/#post-143777

Good luck, and enjoy Lugo, whether you reach it in one day or two! Laurie

Laurie,
I now have a matched set of the very thing - picked them up in Fonsagrada - the Farmacista even got out a tape measure and made sure I was fitted properly. I could not have made it without them.
 
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Wonderful pictures of the Primitivo, Padre! So many memories brought back .... I, too, take many pictures of my food and menus-del-dia on the road! However, I've never walked the Primitivo - but your pictures make me want to attempt it, maybe in 2015. In 2014 I'm walking the Camino Ingles - well, that's my plan. But you know what they say about plans .... if you want to make God laugh, tell Him your plans!
I wonder which will be your next camino?!
Links to my previous caminos, and many photograps are on my web site....
Buen camino!
 
Very nice pictures, Padre. Interesting :rolleyes: to see the number of camera flashes during the swinging of the botafumiero.
 
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€149,-
Many thanks Fraluchi.

Stephen - The Primitivo is a physical test, make no mistake (hit the stairmaster at the gym) - mas duro y muy bonito!
 
Hi Padre, I am heading off in Sept this year to do the primitivo and have enjoyed reading your posts. Shame about the knees. I did the Frances route in 2012 and luckily had no injuries but I am lead to believe that the primitivo is far more challenging and gruelling on the body. Would you agree? Also I was wondering what the weather overall was like when you went given it is around the same time?

Rextra
 
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Your posts are so interesting. Take care of yourself. Buen Camino.
Annie
 
Rextra,

The weather was very good. Very comfortable temperatures during the day, a little cool at night and when up high. If you plan to go the Hospitales route (I highly recommend it!), just stay up on the weather forecast. We had the threat of rain (got soaked just outside of Berducedo at the end of the day) and a pretty good breeze - I think the breeze helped to dehydrate me a bit. September should be fantastic - take rain gear! In hindsight - I was carrying too much. I really knew better but was foolish - If I had been ruthless about trimming the weight I carried the knees might not have been a problem. So go as light as you can. Train as much as you can with your pack on hills. I would not have missed it in any event!
 
Awesome, thanks so much for that. In desperate need to get back on the camino and get rid of the work stress etc....
 
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