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LIVE from the Camino Phil and Janet's great adventure

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Beilari is an amazing way to start your Camino. I stayed with them last week. They are a hard act to follow though. Burn Camino!
 
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Wonderful Camino so far. All physically demanding, but have met so many wonderful people. Beilarii is great if you have a chance to stay. They put Phil and I in the penthouse room with just our two beds. Supper lovely and we met people that we spent the first 3 nights with. Orrison was also good, but left our phone and Kindle charger by accident. Over the Col was challenging and I almost burst into tears of gratitude while waiting in line at Roncevalles. Walked only to Viscarette the next day and had a restful night at Corazon Pura. Only 2 of 5 rooms occupied. Last night at Zurain only 3 of us staying. Wonderful afternoon and evening sitting by the river. Had another roon with only the two of us for 15 euro apiece which included dinner.

In Pamplona tonight. Very busy. I felt we were the subjects of discrimination today at noon in the square. I don't think pilgrims were welcome. We're told to wait for an hour to be waited on while others who were apparently regulars were waited on and served food. Finally paid for our drinks and left and our table was immediately taken over and served. Anyway staying tonight in a Marriott as I am gold card member and they are making up for the snub. Taking our time and will set out late tomorrow morning.

No difficulty finding beds. We are slow but not a lot of people passed us today or yesterday. We must be in the trough of any wave for now.
 
As for locals being served first, try to understand that while there's no doubt pilgrims contribute to the local economy, it's the locals who support the business owners year round. Spain is still in an economic struggle.
 
As for locals being served first, try to understand that while there's no doubt pilgrims contribute to the local economy, it's the locals who support the business owners year round. Spain is still in an economic struggle.

Thanks Maggie, I am trying to be generous. We're told to go inside to order by the waiter and then roughly sent back to our table by another who told us to wait. The waiter told us personally to wait again and then took the orders of others just arriving and brought their food without returning to us. Finally went in to pay for two sodas and were treated roughly again. I am a strange pilgrim in a strange land trying to be polite and honor customs. Will avoid the cities as much as I can from now on.
 
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Thanks Maggie, I am trying to be generous. We're told to go inside to order by the waiter and then roughly sent back to our table by another who told us to wait. The waiter told us personally to wait again and then took the orders of others just arriving and brought their food without returning to us. Finally went in to pay for two sodas and were treated roughly again. I am a strange pilgrim in a strange land trying to be polite and honor customs. Will avoid the cities as much as I can from now on.
So sorry for their indifferent treatment of you. I had a Greek friend who once said to me while we were travelling in Serres, "Remember, there is no Greek word for rude". But I hope you'll not judge all cities by the coldness of a few. I had some wonderful experiences in Madrid, Pamplona, Burgos et al. As for Beilari, I can think of no better way to begin one's Camino. I am still in touch with folks I met at the communal dinner. I do wish you a heartfelt Buen Camino.
 
Went a short trip today up to Zariquiegui. San Andres is open but La Posada De Ardogi seems to be closed. The alberge is full and there is the echo of English, French, Slovenian, and Spainish as the pilgrim's gather for an evening meal. We are packed in like sardines but Phil does not seem to mind and even volenteered to take the top bunk tonight as it was in reach of a plug for his Cpap. Tomorrow over Alto del Pardon and the last steep hill for a while. Loving the journey...time to pray...time to really talk to others and Phil without the burdens of my working life.
 
Went a short trip today up to Zariquiegui. San Andres is open but La Posada De Ardogi seems to be closed. The alberge is full and there is the echo of English, French, Slovenian, and Spainish as the pilgrim's gather for an evening meal. We are packed in like sardines but Phil does not seem to mind and even volenteered to take the top bunk tonight as it was in reach of a plug for his Cpap. Tomorrow over Alto del Pardon and the last steep hill for a while. Loving the journey...time to pray...time to really talk to others and Phil without the burdens of my working life.
Wonderful….and I'm sure it will just keep getting better. Although I opted to walk on my own, I did discover that the connection with others became the nectar of the whole experience. Still in touch with many I met along the way.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
It was the real camino experience today that I've only read about here. 11 in one room. All the snorers (including me) were women. The first risers set alarms and were up before sunrise. One had the million Luman flashlight shining in my eyes. We were up and on the road by 7:15. So far all is good. Tonight in Maneru. Great place. Big bathroom! Big rooms.
 
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It was the real camino experience today that I've only read about here. 11 in one room. All the snorers (including me) were women. The first risers set alarms and were up before sunrise. One had the million Luman flashlight shining in my eyes. We were up and on the road by 7:15. So far all is good. Tonight in Maneru. Great place. Big bathroom! Big rooms.

Big bathroom! Big rooms! In Maneru there is also a man with a Big heart who was my Camino Angel. If you go into the bar where he works please send him thanks and good wishes from the white-haired peregrina he helped last year. I will never forget him and as a consequence it is a moral duty to walk the Frances again just so I can say so to him in person.
 
Big bathroom! Big rooms! In Maneru there is also a man with a Big heart who was my Camino Angel. If you go into the bar where he works please send him thanks and good wishes from the white-haired peregrina he helped last year. I will never forget him and as a consequence it is a moral duty to walk the Frances again just so I can say so to him in person.
We are at a new albergue. Not sure where the bar was.
 
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Tonight at the Albergue in Ayegui at the edge of Estella. It is like a big YMCA with a bar and a big fronton court. We have one in Boise where our Basque community lives. Hope I have spelled it and called it by the right name. We are using a real washer and dryer again. Our clothes won't know how to act. It felt longer today although the weather was pleasant--overcast with a nice breeze.
 
Have been on the stages by accident for a couple of days and ready to be off again. We felt quite alone off stage seeing the occasional pilgrim. Stayed at the muni in Los Arcos which filled up quickly. Tonight at the parochial in Viana also full. Had lunch under a tree in a vineyard listening to Spanish guitar music. Magical!!! Continue to meet lots of great people. Tomorrow to Logrono for a hotel overnight. We are on day 10 and on track for a 50 days to Santiago.
 
Loved our experience at the donativo in Viana, but worst nights sleep so far. Mats very thin so it was an uncomfortable sleep. Went to mass and received the special pilgrim blessing from the priest. Brought tears my eyes and even the men were weeping. Later the priest came to dinner with us and took us through the passageway from the albergue to the church choir loft. All quite magical. Our hospitaleros had the place open only 2 days when we arrived so Phil was put to work sweeping out a storage area. Our walk into Logrono went quickly and we've been luxuriating in a huge bath tub, napping and doing laundry. I am still nursing a mild sprain in my left ankle. Knees are also swollen today. Tomorrow we hope to get to Ventosa.
 
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Loved our experience at the donativo in Viana, but worst nights sleep so far. Mats very thin so it was an uncomfortable sleep. Went to mass and received the special pilgrim blessing from the priest. Brought tears my eyes and even the men were weeping. Later the priest came to dinner with us and took us through the passageway from the albergue to the church choir loft. All quite magical. Our hospitaleros had the place open only 2 days when we arrived so Phil was put to work sweeping out a storage area. Our walk into Logrono went quickly and we've been luxuriating in a huge bath tub, napping and doing laundry. I am still nursing a mild sprain in my left ankle. Knees are also swollen today. Tomorrow we hope to get to Ventosa.

What a wonderful Camino experience so far. Glad to see that there are other dawdlers out there able and willing to take their time and amble towards Santiago. Hope that your knees and ankle improve.
 
Last night we detoured to Sotes as it sounded like everyone was going to Ventosa. We stayed in San Martin which was lovely. Anna the owner/hospitalero treated us well.

Tonight we at Azofra in the muni. Lovely place. Cooked dinner with new friends. Tomorrow at Santo Domingo in the parador. Then on to Granon after a short day. I have planned a couple of shorter days after in case we don't sleep well. Meeting so many wonderful people. My ankle is still puffy, but I can walk in it fine. Knees still sore, but we are starting to walk further and a bit faster. Saw the bed race today. So many worried people, but there was plenty of room. We continue to go without reservations except for hotels in cities where we are planning some rest time.
 
Made it to Santo Domingo in 5 hours with a break for a soda at Ciruena. We are at the Parador that is across from the church. Very nice and got a pilgrim discount. Our anniversary is tomorrow so will have a late breakfast and post a few things to Ivar such as down jackets before we head to Granon for a short day. I want to stay at the donativo even if the mats are a little thin...
 
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Thanks Maggie, I am trying to be generous. We're told to go inside to order by the waiter and then roughly sent back to our table by another who told us to wait. The waiter told us personally to wait again and then took the orders of others just arriving and brought their food without returning to us. Finally went in to pay for two sodas and were treated roughly again. I am a strange pilgrim in a strange land trying to be polite and honor customs. Will avoid the cities as much as I can from now on.
What's the name of the place?
 
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Thank you.I just wanted to know since I'll be staying for a couple of days around the square.
The Spanish seem to dress up when going out. As pilgrim's in our hiking attire we stand out and some days also probably stink. We enjoyed the special lunch today in the dining room without a single stare because we were the only ones dining at 3 pm.
 
The Spanish seem to dress up when going out. As pilgrim's in our hiking attire we stand out and some days also probably stink. We enjoyed the special lunch today in the dining room without a single stare because we were the only ones dining at 3 pm.
Not too bad I guess.I get looked down at in my own Country so I'm used to it.
 
Best of luck on the floor at Granon.
You are braver than me!!! :eek:
Regards and good travelling,
Gerard
 
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I'm the Phil part of the Janet and Phil couple. Our experience at Grañon was magical. A fellow pilgrim picked up a guitar in the dining room and began playing and singing. Others stopped what they were doing to listen, some took pictures, others video with their phones. Hospitaleros stopped and listened. When she began singing a Spanish song about "Senor Jesus" tears flowed, mine included. Many eyes were wiped following her singing. We then pitched in and set up additional tables and chairs for supper. I won't go into detail about Mass and what followed except to say that it must be experienced! Don't miss the experience of the parochial or parish donativo in Grañon. Yep, the mats on the floor will turn away some but the experience of staying there far out weighs a mat on the floor.

Phil
 
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Hi again,
I see Phil posted while I was napping. We did love both the Parador and Granon. We walked 10 miles to Belrado and staying at very comfortable modern place. Have enjoyed the quiet rest after a punishing walk in heat.
Janet
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
We are at San Aton Abad tonight. What a luxury--we have a private Albergue room complete with private bath!!! There are beds here for all prices from 4 euros to 45. It is on the top of the town and our room has a wonderful view of the valley. We are approaching Burgos and San Anton is coming up. Would love to stay but there is no electricity for Phil's cpap. Hope we can at least make time to look around. It is supposed to be cooler tomorrow which will be a blessing. Have seen several pilgrims we know so we are not moving the slowest but with others who are also taking their time.
 
Walked from Atapuerca to Burgos today about 21 km to or hotel. We have tried to have our bags shipped for the first time so we could walk faster and enjoy the city more. I think we are just tired although perhaps a bit faster, but our bags are not here yet which is a bit of a worry. I called yesterday for bag pickup so I hope they are not still sitting at the albergue. Will give them until 3 pm before we call. Hate to have to cab back for them tonight.
 
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Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Phil called down to the hotel desk and our bags made it so we can put on some clean clothes and comfy sandals and see the sights.
 
Went to see cathedral and also went to mass. Had an interesting event while enjoying an afternoon pizza on the plaza at a table just inside a bar. A woman was escourted out of the bar with a lot of loud yelling. She bit the waiter in the bicep part of the arm and then took off running. She returned in a few moments and kicked the waitress in the leg very hard. A man and woman who appeared to be the owners arrived and called an ambulance. The waiter and a waiter from another establishment had taken off running after the woman. The owner person turned to us and said "Gypsies" and then returned to tending to the event. Meanwhile a second waitress and the bartender were trying to hold it all together and keep service going. The bite left a big mark and the waitress also had a terrible bruise. As we left the ambulance had arrived.

Later we went to Mass and I prayed for all involved including the woman.

We had a late start and walked to Rabe de las Calzadas. We are at La Fuente which must be pretty new as it is not in out books. We got a private room with bath for 40 euro.
 
Love the meseta so far. Weather cool but breezy. Reminds me if my many years living in western Ks. Lots of birds and poppies among the green ripples of grain. I think we are crossing at the right time of year. In Hontanas tonight.
 
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Blister doing better. Stayed with the sisters at Santa Maria in Carrion. What a treat! Loved the music and the spiritual nature of the evening. Crossed the long, no stops stretch of the meseta. Reminded me of living in Kansas. The beauty is there. We had cold weather so wearing almost all our clothes in that Camino-chic fashion. Tonight we are in San Nicholus. Lovely albergue--only one in town. Few pilgrim's, quiet stretch of road.
 
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€149,-
I need to put in a plug for the restaurant Casa Barrata in San Nicholaus. Best meal we've had on the Camino. Don't miss it!!!

I certainly agree with you!
San Nicolas del Real Camino is roughly 7 k east of Sahagun on the CF. Casa Barrunta is a very pleasant bar/restaurant at Calle Otero 11, where I, too, have often happily eaten on route to Sahagun.

Their daily menu is always delicious and a great value while tbe staff are VERY pilgrim friendly and will happily stamp your Crendential if you drop in.
...Hope to stop by soon again.
 
I certainly agree with you!
San Nicolas del Real Camino is roughly 7 k east of Sahagun on the CF. Casa Barrunta is a very pleasant bar/restaurant at Calle Otero 11, where I, too, have often happily eaten on route to Sahagun.

Their daily menu is always delicious and a great value while tbe staff are VERY pilgrim friendly and will happily stamp your Crendential if you drop in.
...Hope to stop by soon again.

Margaret:

I will second your recommendation here. I very much enjoy this stop.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Hi all,
In Leon pampering ourselves at luxury hotel. We got in early and walked around the old city. Had menu del dia at a local restaurant. Ordered stuff we did not know as a surprise. Phil got sopa del marisco and was weirded out by the half crab starring him from the broth so he ate my salad which appeared to have white noodles (or they could have been worms) on it. Our main courses were also a surprise. I got pork steak and Phil got oxtails which was also somewhat different than we thought we had ordered. It is an adventure! Love the risks!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Short day today as we slept in and did not get walking until after a big breakfast. Had our first Spanish Hamburguesa today. Our waiter was so young kid who said he spent 7 months in England. His boss called him from the mundane chore of potato peeling to help wait on us. This bar does the cooking at the local swimming pool and then drives the food back to the bar. The owner had two young sons (maybe 12-14 years) that he left in charge momentarily when he and the English speaking lad made a run to the pool. The boys came out together to inquire if we wanted dessert or coffee and politely took out money when we paid the bill. They used their phones to translate words if needed. They were true brothers though! You could hear fussing inside and one threatening to tell "papa" on the other. The older one was bossing the younger brother around!
 
Found a real gem in El Ganzo. Stayed in a little studio. Best nights sleep on the Camino yet. Pricey, but so worth it as Phil has developed a slight cough. I was able to fix him chicken noodle soup and hot tea. The albergue and these studios are your only option, but it is so peaceful. We did go buy something at each of the other two bars in town, too. We nominate the non-cowboy bar for best Patatas Brava on the Camino.

Tonight in Foncebaden. Ate at the "Convento". Ordered off the menu and I got some really good stuffed peppers smothered in cheese sauce. Phil had lamb chops.

Tomorrow past Cruz del Ferro and on to Molinaseca.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Tomorrow to avoid the very slippery descent on shale and scree to Molinaseca consider walking down from El Acebo on the left-side verges of the parallel road LE-142. Generally there is very little vehicular traffic other than pelotons of bike riders on sunny Sundays aiming for Ponferrada.

Carpe diem!
 
Tomorrow to avoid the very slippery descent on shale and scree to Molinaseca consider walking down from El Acebo on the left-side verges of the parallel road LE-142. Generally there is very little vehicular traffic other than pelotons of bike riders on sunny Sundays aiming for Ponferrada.

Carpe diem!
So wish we had seen this sooner. What a killer descent from Riego del Ambrose. There is some kind of professional biking thing on the Camino. AC Hotel sponsored a big feed to a bunch of cyclists in the plaza outside the window. We are in Molinaseca. Our hostel host has biked the Camino 26 times and walked once. He said it is a treatment for his depression and his daughter encouraged him to "get involved" with pilgrims in between trips.

Going to Cababellos tomorrow.
 
You can eat very well in Cacabellos! As you enter the town the Mon Cloa de San Lazaro is very picturesque with good food but not inexpensive. However after you cross the river the Cafe Gato, calle Mariano Enriquez, 2,
has a good Menu del Dia which has been in the past a great bargain.

Enjoy your stay!
 
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You can eat very well in Cacabellos! As you enter the town the Mon Cloa de San Lazaro is very picturesque with good food but not inexpensive. However after you cross the river the Cafe Gato, calle Mariano Enriquez, 2,
has a good Menu del Dia which has been in the past a great bargain.

Enjoy your stay!
We are staying at the Moncloa. Lovely place and less pricey than most US hotels. We are in a room with a Jacuzzi for 75 euro. Longer walk for us today (20.5 km) Slept very little last night as there was live music pounding outside in Molinaseca until about 1-2 am. Stopped for coffee at the Energy Museum in Ponferrada. Lovely place on the river walk route.
 
Wow! Have not posted for a few days now. We are now 100 km from Santiago and the make up of pilgrim's started to change dramatically in Ponferada. Many, many more Spainards now. Large groups of school children and families with small children.

We have stayed mainly off the stages in small family owned places. As a result we see a different mix of both pilgrim's and proprietors. We are surrounded by people who prefer a slower Camino. We watch the cows and sheep being moved through the main street every evening. I'll try to insert a video later of this traffic.

The owners call ahead for us now and they all seem to know each other so the reservations have been easier. When I call with my halting Spanish on the phone you can hear them mutter 'Americans' under their breathe and when we arrive there is a big laugh together as we only have to open our mouths and they immediately flip to our reservation.

We are on day 42 of our journey. Most others we have met are long done by now. We will be finished in about a week. Still walking about 10-12 miles per day. Still relishing the experience, but I don't think I will have the sense that others have shared about the end coming too quickly. We will be ready to reach Santiago and return home to take part in hospitality training on August.

Just a shout out to the tiny little casas and pensions in Laguna del Castillia, Casa Cines in Pintin, and Casa Morgade in Morgade. Lovely places. The owner in Morgade said the last 5 years have resulted in rapid changes for small towns and residents of the Camino. We hope they don't change too much.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Tonight we are in Gonzar which has more cattle than residents. Had a great menu del dia. Phil had steak and I had pot roast. Getting closer now. The airline strikes are a little worrisome, but we'll deal with it when we get to Santiago. May have to rethink our trip to Muxia and try to get back to Paris a bit sooner.
 
In Melide tonight. Only a few days left till Santiago. It is day 45. I am ready to finish and head home. We are still enjoying ourselves, but it quite a wear on the body to walk everyday.. I am not sleeping well due to plantar fasciitis in the right foot. I have zinging pains and cramps which keep me awake. Sometimes take a Flexerill which makes me groggy and constipated the next day. I was very sharp to Phil today when he wanted to walk through the center of town up yet another hill and I wanted to go around. Next time I think we will do a shorter Camino.
 
Hi all,
If you've been following the other thread under Camino Frances you know that we have been forced to throw in the towel on Day 46. Phil has a terrible case of what I believe is food poisoning. He's not going to be in any condition to walk again soon. We're holed up in a great hotel in Arzua. The owner and wife have been uber helpful. If Phil feels well enough we'll take a bus into Santiago tomorrow. No compostella this year, but I don't need a paper to tell me what a great experience this has been. Can come back next year and finish the last 3-4 days.
 
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Very sorry to hear that Phil has been ill @J Willhaus but you've got the right spirit, and besides, what a great excuse to come back!
 
Very sorry to hear that Phil has been ill @J Willhaus but you've got the right spirit, and besides, what a great excuse to come back!

Thanks Kanga,
The whole trip has been such a great adventure for us. There have been a few moments of unpleasantness, but as with life you take the good with the bad and it is only your perspective which determines the value of the experience.
Janet
 
I'll finish this thread with a summary. After 45 days of walking on the CF, Phil was taken ill in Melide. Could not walk or carry his pack or even get more than a few meters from the bathroom. Our walking was over. We rested a full day in Arzua and then cabbed Santiago and when Phil was up to it went to Mass and saw a bit of the old town.

At the end of the second day there we found the pilgrim office and decided to ask for a certificate of completion. Quite unexpectedly the young man who spoke to us decided that our 45 days of walking was deserving of a compostella after he heard of Phil's illness. We were humbled and felt unworthy, but grateful.

We are in Muxia now for two days and will bus back to Santiago tomorrow. We fly to Paris the following day, back to Seattle, and finally to Boise after that. Thanks to all forum members for your tips, encouragement, and advice. The journey would not have been the same without you. This has by far been our greatest adventure to date and we look forward to more in the future.
 
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