alansykes
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Except the Francés
I recently walked from Almería to Guadalupe in Extremadura, visiting the ancient monastery there with its black virgin, "Reina de la Hispanidad". At one time it was almost as popular a pilgrimage as Santiago, but has obviously been eclipsed by the huge increase in numbers heading for SdC in the last 20 years or so. They are trying to increase the numbers, and there are many routes that can be taken, several of which leave well marked Jacobeo routes (www.caminosaguadalupe.com). I followed the Camino Mozárabe and had the reassurance of yellow arrows (and frequent albergues) up until 3 days from Guadalupe, while other routes leave from the Vía de la Plata and from the Camino de Levante.
Anyone taking this path is following in illustrious footsteps, as Los Reyes Católicos came here over 20 times between them (and Ferdinand was a couple of days away from a return when he died). Columbus came four times, before and after his trans-Atlantic trips, once bringing a couple of people from the New World to be baptised in what is now the fountain in front of the monastery. Cervantes, kings, queens, saints, emperors and popes are among other pilgrims.
The statue of the virgin looks out over the high altar, or is turned round to face you at eye level in the Camarin de la Virgen, where a monk gives you a medal to kiss as you approach her. The treasures of the monastery are another reason to visit - the largest collection of Zurbaráns in the world, three el Grecos, a couple of Rubens, a Goya, manuscripts, paintings, sculptures and vestments dating back nearly a thousand years.
The hospederia of the monastery is a very decent two star hotel, costing 50€ for a single room, which seemed excellent value to me (although if you try to book online the price jumps 30% or more, so ring them direct). I don't think I've ever slept in a World Heritage Centre before.
The setting is yet another reason to stay. The monastery is in its own secret valley, surrounded by mountains and forests, including some huge ancient chestnuts (one, the Castaño Abuelo, is apparently 800 years old or more). Unamuno, after his visit in 1910, wrote:
“Hermosísimo es, sin duda, cuanto el arte humano puede aún ofrecernos en Guadalupe; más es más hermoso aún lo que allí la Naturaleza nos ofrece... Jamás vi castaños más gigantescos y más tupidos. Y nogales, álamos, alcornoques, robles, quejigos, encinas, fresnos, almendros, alisos junto al regato, y todo ello embalsamado por el olor de perfumadas matas”.
I loved it. Another time I would aim to arrive mid week, as it gets very full at weekends, but the packed pilgrim mass on Sunday was an experience, especially when, in the list of recent arrivals, there was mention of "uno del Reino Unido, desde Almería".
Anyone taking this path is following in illustrious footsteps, as Los Reyes Católicos came here over 20 times between them (and Ferdinand was a couple of days away from a return when he died). Columbus came four times, before and after his trans-Atlantic trips, once bringing a couple of people from the New World to be baptised in what is now the fountain in front of the monastery. Cervantes, kings, queens, saints, emperors and popes are among other pilgrims.
The statue of the virgin looks out over the high altar, or is turned round to face you at eye level in the Camarin de la Virgen, where a monk gives you a medal to kiss as you approach her. The treasures of the monastery are another reason to visit - the largest collection of Zurbaráns in the world, three el Grecos, a couple of Rubens, a Goya, manuscripts, paintings, sculptures and vestments dating back nearly a thousand years.
The hospederia of the monastery is a very decent two star hotel, costing 50€ for a single room, which seemed excellent value to me (although if you try to book online the price jumps 30% or more, so ring them direct). I don't think I've ever slept in a World Heritage Centre before.
The setting is yet another reason to stay. The monastery is in its own secret valley, surrounded by mountains and forests, including some huge ancient chestnuts (one, the Castaño Abuelo, is apparently 800 years old or more). Unamuno, after his visit in 1910, wrote:
“Hermosísimo es, sin duda, cuanto el arte humano puede aún ofrecernos en Guadalupe; más es más hermoso aún lo que allí la Naturaleza nos ofrece... Jamás vi castaños más gigantescos y más tupidos. Y nogales, álamos, alcornoques, robles, quejigos, encinas, fresnos, almendros, alisos junto al regato, y todo ello embalsamado por el olor de perfumadas matas”.
I loved it. Another time I would aim to arrive mid week, as it gets very full at weekends, but the packed pilgrim mass on Sunday was an experience, especially when, in the list of recent arrivals, there was mention of "uno del Reino Unido, desde Almería".
