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Comparing Difficulty: Le Puy-Conques vs Lucca-Rome on the Via Francigena

Vermont Pat

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances Sept - Oct 2016
Camino Frances, Burgos - Vega de Valcarce, May 2017
We plan to start from Le Puy around September 7. How would you compare this route to the VF or some of the hardest days on the Frances? Thank you.
 
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I would say the hardest days on the Le Puy and the Via Francigena are no harder than the hardest on Frances, but there are definitely far more of them peppered throughout the Le Puy on steep climbs and the Via Francigena on long climbs. Each has some "memorable" difficult stretches, but the beauty always makes up for any hardship. It all works out in the end if no illness or injury interferes.
 
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I am from Vermont and maybe you are too, @Vermont Pat. If you are, there are almost no ascents or descents on the Le Puy route that compare to what you may have found here. The descent into Conques is comparable to what I have found back home: a degree of steepness, a rocky trail, and muddy (it was raining the day I descended). The descent into Monistrol is similar. The hike out of Conques, if you take the steep climb which is not the normal route but was recommended to our group at the abbey, is the steepest stretch I recall on the whole chemin. But again, it is probably no more than 1,000 ft of ascent. If you have day hiked the Long Trail here, you will not be overly challenged by the Via Podiensis.
 
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How to compare difficult parts of Le Puy to Conques to difficult parts of the VF or the Frances?
First up, nearly all my daily sections well and truly exceeded 25 km, often by a good margin. So some of my difficulties may be explained by weariness towards the end of the day and or heat of the day.

The decent from Nasinbals to Come d'Alt was tiresome (Saint John has this as two stages). For me this day was made light by wondering whether des vache ecosse I encountered might recognise the tartan of the kilt I was wearing. And at a welcome glade complete with seat and cooling pool, encountering two 72 year olds wanting to know who of the three of us was the oldest: I won that one by 2 years.

On the Frances, I was at Roncesvalles well under 6 hours after leaving Saint-Jean

Because of a tummy bug, I bypassed the awkward descent into Molinaseca.

My VF was from Canterbury: over 600 km I was astounded to have reached a pinnacle of only 200 m above sea level. Looking ahead (and ignoring the transition from Switzerland to Italy) the biggest challenge seems to be crossing from the Po valley to the west coast.

Would appreciate your analysis.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong)
 
Hi Alwyn. Thanks for the details.
I think the descent into Acebo was the hardest day for me. The dark crept in earlier than I expected - Yikes! So glad it's such a wonderful place.
We found several sections of the VF quite challenging - I'm thinking of the walk to Gambassi Termi; to Monteriggioni and into Siena. Always down in the morning and up in the evening. The other thing that made the VF hard was the lack of support. So often we would just have to sit down in the dirt and eat our dry bread and cheese - the bakery folks wouldn't hear of putting mayonnaise or olive oil on the bread!
And, of course, we wanted to eat before 6 but there was never anything open until 7 or 8.
Anyway - it was all great!
Cheers,
Pat
 
I think the descent into Acebo was the hardest day for me.
So many dislike that stretch, but I found it unusually beautiful, including past Ascebo down to Molineseca as I don't struggle on downhills.
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We found several sections of the VF quite challenging - I'm thinking of the walk to Gambassi Termi; to Monteriggioni and into Siena. Always down in the morning and up in the evening. The other thing that made the VF hard was the lack of support. So often we would just have to sit down in the dirt and eat our dry bread and cheese - the bakery folks wouldn't hear of putting mayonnaise or olive oil on the bread!
And, of course, we wanted to eat before 6 but there was never anything open until 7 or 8.
Anyway - it was all great!
Totally agree overall; those stretches were difficult. So true that it was often down in the morning, and climbing up to the village/town on top of a big hill to end the day...whew! Almost no support between stages, so we often ate our own lunch under the shade of an olive tree, or found a lovely view to enjoy. We did our best to avoid sitting in dirt.😅 A very beautiful, unique walk and so glad to have done it!
 
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Despite my advanced years, I've managed to get a good level of fitness (today I'm focused on completing a 40 km stroll complete with all my long distance gear) with two hillocks of 150 m asl to get over. My home, at 90 m asl, is just on 2 km from the sea. Other features close by and a bit further afield make for a great training ground.

I was booked to return to the VF in March 2020, but ...

Thanks for your notes on the approach to Siena.

When I leave San Gimignano I propose turning left, follow up a valley, then over a hill down to Florence, this being the route taken by the New Zealand army in July 1944, for a lay day. Then by train to Siena.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong)
 
When the say "See Rome and die" they might have been referring to the route between San Quirico, Radicofani and Aquapendente. But in return you see the beauty of Tuscan hills. And you can't appreciate the hills without going over them.

Lucca and Siena are also places you should take some time over as there is so much to see. Well worth effort to get there.

And then there's Rome where you'll die to get to.
 

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VF is definitely on my list. I’m a weirdo that loves hills. Besides, what’s not to like about slow tourism in Italy.
 
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