Ponferrada to Santiago...first time Camino walker!

[galwaygirl]

Hello all,
I'm hoping to walk from Ponferrada to Santiago from 1st-11th October this year.

Very very excited to be finally getting to start my Camino experience! I know quite a few people who've walked from Sarria to Santiago and I've been getting really helpful advice from them but I was wondering about the Ponferrada to Sarria route - what is it like? I've tried wearing boots but they just don't sit right on my feet (or maybe I haven't found the right ones) so I'm now thinking i'll wear good hiking/walking shoes instead. I know we can't predict the weather but for those first two weeks in October what should I expect?

Any advice for a first time Camino walker (I'm in my late 30's and pretty active in my daily life - just probably not super fit!) - much appreciated!

I know this will be the start of many Camino's!!

Aine

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Going from Ponferrada to Sarria you will climb to the highest elevation on the Camino Frances, so you have added a somewhat challenging segment to your walk. Ten days is a good amount of time to walk it in standard stages, so you will want to get those boots working for you to make it comfortable.

Buen camino!

One scenario:
Day Stage Partial (km) Cum (km)
1) Mo, 1-Oct-2012 Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo 22.3 22.3
2) Tu, 2-Oct-2012 Villafranca del Bierzo - La Faba 23.8 46.1
3) We, 3-Oct-2012 La Faba - Triacastela 25.6 71.7
4) Th, 4-Oct-2012 Triacastela - Sarria 24.6 96.3
5) Fr, 5-Oct-2012 Sarria - Portomarín 22.5 118.8
6) Sa, 6-Oct-2012 Portomarín - Airexe 17.4 136.2
7) Su, 7-Oct-2012 Airexe - Leboreiro 16.7 152.9
8 ) Mo, 8-Oct-2012 Leboreiro - Arzúa 19.6 172.5
9) Tu, 9-Oct-2012 Arzúa - Rúa 17.8 190.3
10) We, 10-Oct-2012 Rúa - Santiago de Compostela 20.7 211

 

[tyrrek]

Hi Aine!

The big challenge is the climb up to O Cebreiro, which is a steep climb but done at your own pace will be OK. Lots of people like to stay in O Cebreiro, which is at the end of that days walk if you follow a book such as John Brierley's guide.

I've done it differently, and stayed just a few kms from the bottom of the hill on both my Caminos around Vega de Valcarce, so I started fresh in the morning and arrived in O Cebreiro around lunchtime. Then continued in the afternoon to Alto do Poio. It's still on top of the hill and in the morning you can have fantastic views (like last year) or it might be so misty you can't see your hand in front of your face (like this year)!

Buen Camino!

 

[galwaygirl]

Thank you so much for your great advice and replies. I am completely over the moon excited and in a bit of a state of disbelief that I'll finally get to walk part of the Camino for the very first time...a dream come true!

I'll get those boots on and walk as much as I can between now and the beginning of October. One part of me is so incredibly looking forward to this journey and another part of me is afraid of what it'll bring up and I just hope I've the strength (physically/emotionally/mentally) for it.

Aine

 

[tyrrek]

One part of me is so incredibly looking forward to this journey and another part of me is afraid of what it'll bring up and I just hope I've the strength (physically/emotionally/mentally) for it.

Just follow the first part of you! You will have such a great time, meet lovely people and remember it for the rest of your life. So just enjoy it! Buen Camino!

 

[annakappa]

As regards to the weather, it could be wet, it could be dry!! We have experienced both at that time of the year - once a very wet Camino and last year not a drop of rain. Do make sure that you are happy with your boots, because if there is one tiny discomfort now while you are training, you can be sure that this will only increase once you are walking for hours every day. You might be better investing in a new pair of boots, which, by the way, should feel instantly comfortable on your feet. They should still be broken in (minimum 100 Kms before you leave, in my opinion). Anne

 

[Neon84]

Hi Aine,

Fellow Irish person here, and we did the Ponferrada to Santiago route in May, in 9 days. It was wonderful!

You'll definitely need boots, though. Some days were tough in terms of hills and terrain, so shoes will not do the job. You're better off with boots.

The first day out of Ponferrada (we walked to Villafranca del Bierzo) is lovely - a lot of vineyards and nice scenery. Some inclines, but not too bad. We then walked from VdB to Vega del Varcarce, which is a lovely, quiet little village and one of our favourite stops. The next day was Vega to Alto do Poio, quite hilly, especially the last bit up to the Alto. We stopped here, but be warned - there is absolutely nothing (NOTHING!) here except two hostels and a bar! It was a great place to get chatting to people for that reason, though.

Some practical advice (and this is just my opinion):

- If you are walking to VdB on the first day, don't stay at the Ave Fenix hostel. It's probably the least nice hostel we stayed at overall, and I've read various accounts of bedbugs at it since coming home. Luckily we didn't pick up any bedbugs, but it is still a very small/cramped hostel and I'm sure there are nicer ones in the town.
- You will get blisters. It's an inevitability. Compeed was the best solution for us. Stock up whenever you pass a chemist in one of the bigger towns, because some towns/hamlets will not have a shop, never mind a chemist. Rub Vaseline on your feet before putting on your socks every morning, and change your socks mid-morning every day while walking.
- Learn some basic Spanish phrases if you can - stuff like 'Do you have..?' and 'Is there a shop/pharmacy?' etc.


Let me know if you have any other questions!

Lauren

 

[mspath]

Over the years in Villafranca del Bierzo I have usually stayed in the "atmospheric" private albergue Ave Felix. Located on the camino as you enter the town and composed of an ad hoc series of volumes and levels surrounding an open courtyard it is often the only albergue open in late autumn or winter. Next door is the tiny 12th century Santiago chapel where medieval pilgrims too ill to continue were granted absolution at the famous door, the Puerta del Pardon.

Opposite the nearby castle a small restaurant is now also named the Puerta del Pardon. Serving truly delicious local produce and wonderful Biezro wine last November their set evening menu was only 10 euros. Don't miss it!. Rooms are also available. Here is their web site >> http://www.lapuertadelperdon.com

Margaret

 

[galwaygirl]

Dear Lauren, Margaret and Anne,
It is so great to hear from you and get your advice as I find I shift from complete excitement to being completely overwhelmed about this wonderful Camino adventure. It's great to know from people who've walked the same stretch - some, many many times - of lovely places to stay and eat. I'll be travelling from Galway (west of Ireland) to Dublin - Madrid - (overnight train) - Ponferrada within one and half/two days and will be starting my walk when i get off the train about 5am. I didn't know whether to stay in Ponferrada that day after all the travelling but I think i'll start walking (too exited to stay still!!), take it very easy that day and see how I go.
I'm so looking forward to the walk and everything I'll experience along the way - the people I'll meet and the time alone too. I went to the library today and got a 'beginners Spanish' set of CD's so i'll be listening to that as I walk and train over the next month. Unfortunately I've got vertigo at the moment so my training is a bit side-lined (adding to the over-whelming-ness of it all!) but as soon as I can walk in a straight line again I'll be out there go-o!!
Thanks for the advice on the boots and feet management too!
I'm so excited I think i might burst at this stage...then comes the panic...and the excitement again!!
Aine

 

[antley]

Hi

Fellow irish girl flying to santiago on tuesday and, sort of, blindly throwing myself into this. I hope to start in Villafrana del Bierzo but as my plane lands at 15.40 it looks like i have to wait till 9pm that night to get transport there. Does anybody know an alternative way of getting from Santiago to villafranca del bierzo or indeed Ponferrada at around 5 - 6pm in the evening?

 

[Deleted member 3000]

From the bus station:
Santiago Compostela Villafranca Del Bierzo 09:45 13:40 3h 55min 18.79€ LMXJVSD
Santiago Compostela Villafranca Del Bierzo 21:30 01:05 3h 35min 18.79€ LMXJVSD
Santiago Compostela Villafranca Del Bierzo 23:15 02:05 2h 50min 18.79€ LMXJVSD

 

[galwaygirl]

Buen Camino Antley, hope it goes really well for you. Will be looking forward to hearing how you're getting on - we'll be walking almost the same stretch a month apart of one another! Safe travels.

Aine

 

[andarilho]

Hi galwaygirl

- You will get blisters. It's an inevitability. Compeed was the best solution for us. Stock up whenever you pass a chemist in one of the bigger towns, because some towns/hamlets will not have a shop, never mind a chemist. Rub Vaseline on your feet before putting on your socks every morning, and change your socks mid-morning every day while walking.
Lauren

Vaseline - absolutely - especially on pressure points on sole of feet. toes & edge of heel all the way round. I used an ankle-length pair of lady's nylons (!! :shock: ) as undersocks as well as the vaseline - & not a blister in sight on my first Camino, Leon to Santiago in June this year. Shared a pair with a guy I met on the journey who had blister problems on a previous Camino & he had no blisters this time either!! Suggest bring a pack of 5 pairs (any department store)
Buen Camino, George (Dublin)

 

[andarilho]

Hi again galwaygirl,

You'll definitely need boots, though.

... and I agee comletely with Lauren, do the boots
regards George

 

[Deleted member 3000]

i'll wear good hiking/walking shoes instead

Unless you need the ankle support of a high boot, sturdy lowcut hiking shoes will be fine. Most of the ankle-turner terrain is behind you when you start from Ponferrada.

 

[galwaygirl]

Hi George,
I LOVE the nylon idea...gives me a giggle too! Thanks a million.
Got a great pair of boots and have been out for short walks, my vertigo hindering longer walks/training at the moment...but i'll get there.
Sooooooooooooo excited!!! And can't believe this time next month I'll actually be walking the Camino!!
Thanks,
Aine

 

[antley]

Thanks everyone.. i have this bizarre mix of nerves, apprehension, excitement. We'll see what tomorrow brings. Having never "winged " it before I am taking a gamble in (a) not booking anywhere (b) taking trainers not hiking boots as its HOT there right now and (c) going it alone. We'll see. Aine, I will keep you posted !
Here goes....

Joeanne

 

[Neon84]

Good luck and buen camino to you both. Another tip on the boots is to buy a cheap packet of women's maxi pads (really!) and line your boots with them. It makes the soles softer and absorbs some of the moisture from your feet and socks. The nylon undersocks are also a great idea!

Antley, would you consider renting a car to drive from Santiago to Villafranca or Ponferrada?

 

[galwaygirl]

Neon84....thanks for the tip, must try it out!! Love these weird and wonderful tips...and if they keep the blisters away, sure i'd try anything!

Hope you go there safely Joanne and got to Villafranca or Ponferrada okay - and that your Camino adventure is going great! Sometimes 'winging it' is the perfect way to go!

Aine

 

[antley]

winging it works a treat it seems.. despite being kitted out for every sleeping possibility Iḿ afraid my agonised blistered feet dictated hotel accomodation only. It works out ok... roughly on average 25 euro a night for your own room and bathroom. Loved Portomarrin yesterday but the walk from there to Palas De Re today was hard in the heat and its that little bit further than other stages. If I were to give advice I would say to stay at Ligonde and not trudge on if your feet are sore. Despite getting away from the "race " i did just that today... thought it was a race ! Its fantastic though and while most people seem to be Spanish, deep heat is my new best friend ?

Aine- did I share with you in florence in 1996 by any chance ?

 

[TerryB]

You will get blisters. It's an inevitability. Compeed was the best solution for us.

Hi Aine,
In spite of the above quote, blisters are NOT inevitable! Close fitting thin liner socks under thicker outers means that the friction is taken up between the layers, not between the socks and your skin. Compeed does seem to work for most people but it will not adhere to my skin! Tried it once and it came off with an hour. With a 'hot spot' (best to stop as soon as you feel any heat or pressure) I used a strip of Dermomed Fix available at most Farmacias on the Camino. The last three years walking the Camino I have never had a blister
Anne (annakappa on 27 Aug 2012, 23:06 ) is right, good fitting boots / shoes will feel right from the word go. If there is a tight spot or something rubbing it would be better to try a half size bigger or a different brand. Look after your feet and your feet will look after you

Have a marvellous Camino
Tio Tel

 

[galwaygirl]

Yes Joeanne...it's me!!! I just realised it yesterday that this was you too!!! I was telling me mum this evening about you and that you were walking the camino! We have to meet up now sometime before the year is out too talk about our camino's!!! 1996 seems like a lifetime away doesn't it...oh, the good 'ol days in Villa San Girolamo in Fiesole, Florence!!!

Went and got a few supplies today for my Camino, including vaseline, compeed and nylon stockings TerryB ... hopefully these, with good socks and the boots will help keep most blisters at bay!

Am really gettting excited...need to do some more walking in my boots though before i go!

 

[antley]

What are the chances? What a hoot! Im in the most gorgeous place called santo irene today. Its 7.30 and the sun is still shining outside. Best plan was having no plan as youd never find the hidden gems. Its heaven on earth! Will be in santiago tomorrow- way early so going to try and get to finesterre and walk back. I just cant believe its you- am dying to catch up now. Its been way way too long! Dont buy too much. Three sets of clothes and lots of socks and you'll be fine.Hope youre well. See u very soon xxx

 

[galwaygirl]

Sounds absolutely amazing Joeanne, i'll be following your plan and not planning too much either. My brother lives in Madrid so he's going to come and meet me when I get to Santiago to celebrate - can't wait for that. Sounds like you're having a ball...enjoy enjoy...dying to hear all about it! We'll plan a rendez vous in Dublin (i'm in Galway) sometime over the next few months the next time i'm in Dublin and we can swap camino stories!
Bet you don't want it to end!!
Aine

 

[purplesage]

Hello all,
I'm hoping to walk from Ponferrada to Santiago from 1st-11th October this year.

Very very excited to be finally getting to start my Camino experience! I know quite a few people who've walked from Sarria to Santiago and I've been getting really helpful advice from them but I was wondering about the Ponferrada to Sarria route - what is it like? I've tried wearing boots but they just don't sit right on my feet (or maybe I haven't found the right ones) so I'm now thinking i'll wear good hiking/walking shoes instead. I know we can't predict the weather but for those first two weeks in October what should I expect?

Any advice for a first time Camino walker (I'm in my late 30's and pretty active in my daily life - just probably not super fit!) - much appreciated!

I know this will be the start of many Camino's!!

Aine

Hello Aine,
I have walked the Camino in 2012 from Roncesvalles but am walking the bit from Ponferrada to Santiago in March this year with my partner. The first time was on my own and I cannot find the right words to tell anyone, let alone myself, what I experienced. From bitter anger to absolute joy: angry when the walking got tough. For me, the Ponferrada to Santiago bit was like preparing for the Big day but what happened on the way, is as it is for everyone, in different forms. I had some great spiritual experiences. Get used to a really good pair of boots; they are going to be your best friends and the best thing you'd do for yourself. And walk at your own pace: you will notice you CAN make stops along the way when you get worn out. its not about winning a race. I didn't walk the tough O'Ceraborio bit: I had a bd case if siatic nerves on my right leg and had to be sent by a van carrying luggage. But the town is beautful and in the morning, the views are divine.
Buen Camino
purplesage

 

[Mackie]

Going from Ponferrada to Sarria you will climb to the highest elevation on the Camino Frances, so you have added a somewhat challenging segment to your walk. Ten days is a good amount of time to walk it in standard stages, so you will want to get those boots working for you to make it comfortable.

Buen camino!

One scenario:
Day Stage Partial (km) Cum (km)
1) Mo, 1-Oct-2012 Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo 22.3 22.3
2) Tu, 2-Oct-2012 Villafranca del Bierzo - La Faba 23.8 46.1
3) We, 3-Oct-2012 La Faba - Triacastela 25.6 71.7
4) Th, 4-Oct-2012 Triacastela - Sarria 24.6 96.3
5) Fr, 5-Oct-2012 Sarria - Portomarín 22.5 118.8
6) Sa, 6-Oct-2012 Portomarín - Airexe 17.4 136.2
7) Su, 7-Oct-2012 Airexe - Leboreiro 16.7 152.9
8 ) Mo, 8-Oct-2012 Leboreiro - Arzúa 19.6 172.5
9) Tu, 9-Oct-2012 Arzúa - Rúa 17.8 190.3
10) We, 10-Oct-2012 Rúa - Santiago de Compostela 20.7 211

Going from Ponferrada to Sarria you will climb to the highest elevation on the Camino Frances, so you have added a somewhat challenging segment to your walk. Ten days is a good amount of time to walk it in standard stages, so you will want to get those boots working for you to make it comfortable.

Buen camino!

One scenario:
Day Stage Partial (km) Cum (km)
1) Mo, 1-Oct-2012 Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo 22.3 22.3
2) Tu, 2-Oct-2012 Villafranca del Bierzo - La Faba 23.8 46.1
3) We, 3-Oct-2012 La Faba - Triacastela 25.6 71.7
4) Th, 4-Oct-2012 Triacastela - Sarria 24.6 96.3
5) Fr, 5-Oct-2012 Sarria - Portomarín 22.5 118.8
6) Sa, 6-Oct-2012 Portomarín - Airexe 17.4 136.2
7) Su, 7-Oct-2012 Airexe - Leboreiro 16.7 152.9
8 ) Mo, 8-Oct-2012 Leboreiro - Arzúa 19.6 172.5
9) Tu, 9-Oct-2012 Arzúa - Rúa 17.8 190.3
10) We, 10-Oct-2012 Rúa - Santiago de Compostela 20.7 211

 

[Mackie]

Falcon, isn't Hierro de Cruz the highest elevation on the Camino Frances? I did the Camino Frances on Sep-Oct 2011 from Roncesvalles to Santiago.

Mackie

 

[Hound-of-Ulster]

Hello all,
I'm hoping to walk from Ponferrada to Santiago from 1st-11th October this year.

Very very excited to be finally getting to start my Camino experience! I know quite a few people who've walked from Sarria to Santiago and I've been getting really helpful advice from them but I was wondering about the Ponferrada to Sarria route - what is it like? I've tried wearing boots but they just don't sit right on my feet (or maybe I haven't found the right ones) so I'm now thinking i'll wear good hiking/walking shoes instead. I know we can't predict the weather but for those first two weeks in October what should I expect?

Any advice for a first time Camino walker (I'm in my late 30's and pretty active in my daily life - just probably not super fit!) - much appreciated!

I know this will be the start of many Camino's!!

Aine

Hi Aine, you will get loads of advice on here, some good, some not so good.

Fitness - you don’t need to be super fit to do the Camino, my wife and I are in our 50’s and so overweight and unfit at the start in Saint Jean PdP, everyone is different and doing THEIR Camino for different reasons. I have seen reports on this forum regarding the boots shoe issue, you go with what’s comfortable for you. I wear walking shoes, my wife wore boots until recently but has subsequently switched to closed toe sandels as she felt the boots were squishing her toes on some of the descents. We even saw a fella walking barefoot today on one of the rockiest descents....

The guide is just that, a guide. We can’t do the mileage suggested most days and so we are taking longer to complete the Camino, but we knew that before we left, we arrive in Ponferrada tomorrow, I was exhausted by the heat the past few days so we only did 6 miles. Remember the Camino is a Journey, it’s not just about the destination, Spend a day in Ponferrada getting used to the heat, but also seeing the sights that make the Camino “the Camino”. To many people mile crunch from they get up in the morning until they stop for the night, if that’s your thing fine, but I would suggest that you would miss so much more that the Camino has to offer. Most importantly enjoy your Camino....

 

[Jennylee]

Hello all,
I'm hoping to walk from Ponferrada to Santiago from 1st-11th October this year.

Very very excited to be finally getting to start my Camino experience! I know quite a few people who've walked from Sarria to Santiago and I've been getting really helpful advice from them but I was wondering about the Ponferrada to Sarria route - what is it like? I've tried wearing boots but they just don't sit right on my feet (or maybe I haven't found the right ones) so I'm now thinking i'll wear good hiking/walking shoes instead. I know we can't predict the weather but for those first two weeks in October what should I expect?

Any advice for a first time Camino walker (I'm in my late 30's and pretty active in my daily life - just probably not super fit!) - much appreciated!

I know this will be the start of many Camino's!!

Aine

Hi there. Did you blog your walk. Am planning my first one this year, if covid allows me to leave South Africa in early October. Would love to hear how it was.