Porto to Muxia, 12 August, Coastal!

[richie_a]

Hi guys
I know there's been a fair bit covered about the inland and coastal routes, and I've been keeping up to date with the "The July experience of Camino Portuges, coastal" thread, and others. I still have a few questions and didn't want to hijack someone elses thread.

First up, leaving Porto. There's been a number of posts about the unattractive suburbs and industrial areas when walking out of Porto, and many suggest to jump on the subway. When my Camino starts on the 12 August (or thereabouts) I will try walking from the Porto Cathedral through to Santiago and then to the coast with no motorised means, unless the need arises. I am wondering if it would be a more pleasant walk if I started at the Cathedral, walked to the river and then headed East to the coast, and then North to Matosinhos and up to Vila do Conde? Is this straight forward enough? Or would I be better off going the 'burbs?

Secondly, I must decide whether to go inland to Rates or do the coastal route to Valenca or up through Vigo. The coastal route would be my preference as I know it will be hot but also peak season, so I'm not sure whether accomodation will be an issue. Has anyone experienced walking this coast at a similar time? JohnnieW, did you have any trouble with accomodation?

My other concern is whether I will miss the real 'Camino' experience if I am on the coastal route with few other pilgrims. I know in my first camino I was wanting quiet time and space, but it was the other pilgrims who made the way so memorable. I would also miss Casa da Fernanda! Would it be unlike to get a spot there this time of year anyway?

And then if I am on the inland route, Valenca or Tui. It sounds like Valence is pretty nice, is that the general feel?

Again, JohnnieW, you might be the best perosn to ask, I believe you have done both routes and recently really enjoyed the walk from A Guarda to Redondela. Would I miss some beautiful areas by doing that extra coastal walk through Vigo, or is the inland section from Tui worth doing for my first (and maybe last) Camino Portuges?

Thank you all for reading and any help you can provide

Cheers
Richie

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hola

I'll try to answer some of your questions and no doubt others will come in too. I understand it is perfectly straightforward to walk along the coast from Oporto to Vila do Conde. Look at this thread:

el-camino-portugues/topic11770.html

Coastal route and accommodation - hmmmm... yes I did have some problems with accommodation as i did not have a comprehensive list so that I could telephone and book ahead...even then I think there would have been some language difficulties in smaller places in Portugal. August is the peak holiday month and basically this route traces the holiday resorts and beach resorts along the coastline. That's why I want to produce a guide at some point as wouldn't just walk into places expecting to find a bed in holiday season. Sorry. You could of course e mail all of the local tourist offices and try to book that way. You are unlikely to meet any other pilgrims on this route and that is a consideration for you.

Most pilgrims arriving in Vila do Conde then proceed inland to Rates and from there on the interior route to Valenca, Tui etc. This route has the most developed pilgrim infrastructure. The CSJ has a guide here: http://www.csj.org.uk/guides.htm You can download a guide there but if you do also make sure you download the 2011 update.

For a first (and maybe last) Camino Portuguese - I can only tell you what I would do and that is unquestionably the interior route from Oporto - Vila do Conde ( or Vilarhino depending on what you decide) - Barcelos - Ponte de Lima (beautiful town) - Valenca etc...This route does have some challenges, but you will meet other pilgrims and be able to use albergues etc.

I hope this helps.

John

 

[richie_a]

Thanks so much John,

That certainly does help. I can get by ok in Spanish, but my Portugese is non existant and my Camino experience may not be so enjoyable if I spend half my walk worrying about places to sleep.

I'll certainly start by heading to Vila do Conde and then probably inland . . . unless the Way has other plans

Thanks again

Richie

PS. and I've loved your guide! It's been very helpful already. I used one 10 years ago for the Camino Frances, it was my saving grace and I'm sure other Pilgrims stayed with me just so they could use it aswell!!

 

[scruffy1]

Johnnywalker has good advice as usual - but you are not yet out of the woods, passing over the bridge into Tui and Spain remember to set you watch there is an hour's difference. Leaving Tui you have a lovely walk through the forest, do say hello to Saint Telmo for me, no, I am not of the Christian persuasion but I was a sailor for many years and then you face the Porrino challenge. Porrino is all industrial all sidewalks factories warehouses car dealerships and rubbish. Mos just beyond is lovely but last spring the local bar was closed and the promised restaurant 1k down the road was shuttered. I arrived in Mos disheartened but met a couple of women who had taxied from the restaurant just on the right coming out from the forest above Porrino, and they were in good spirits and walked on to Redondela. Plan well.

 

[richie_a]

Hey scruffy,
Haha, I will certainly send your wishes on to Saint Telmo (or now after a quick wiki search, also known as Peter González).

Thanks for your tips and advice

Regards
Richie

 

[richie_a]

Hi guys,
Sorry to bring this thread to life again. I leave my home land in less than a week on my way to Porto, with a few brief stops on the way.

I haven't yet decided whether I will go the coastal or inland route from Vila do Conde to Tui / Valenca. The weather is looking pretty good, i have a few questions for those who might know better . . .

My proposed coastal route, should I decide on it, would be:
Porto (hostel - booked)
Vila do Conde (private / hostel)
Marinhas (albergue)
Viana do Castelo (hostel - space available; albergue too?)
Caminha (albergue)
Vila Nova de Cerveira (hostel - space available)
Valenca / Tui (albergue)

Will the albergues in Marinhas and Caminha likely have beds available? as I understand it is not a well walked route (particularly in the height of summer) and I will unlikely see any other pilgrims, however are the albergues sometime used but other backpackers or travellers since it will be resort season? Each day is about 20km +/- 5kms, so even if the weather becomes hot (>30), it wouldn't be a long day anyway. Any further ideas or suggestions would be great.

Secondly, Tui and Vanenc seem so close, either would be easy enough to stay at, is one town nice / friendlier than the other? Or better to stay at?

Much thanks
Richie

--- I missed it before, but I believe there is a "Associação dos Amigos" refugio in Viana do Castelo too.

 

[carlosmlva]

Hi Richie,

Not sure if still on time, but I saw your questions and I'll tell you what I know from here (I live in Porto and I already did the portuguese inland route and some kms of the coastal)

First of all, I think the best way to leave Porto is like you said in the first post: start on the cathedral, go down to the river and follow it (to the West) until it meats the ocean, then head North to Matosinhos, look for the tram/subway station "Senhor de Matosinhos" as the bridge to cross to Leça da Palmeira is right next to it. At this point you should start seeing the yellow arrows, otherwise just go along the ocean on the wooden paths. You should have no problems finding your way to Vila do Conde. I did that stage some days ago and it is as beautiful as easy to walk.
After Vila do Conde I would then avoid the crowds typical of this season that will take most of the acommodation and head to São Pedro de Rates. You'll then walk through really cities like Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, etc. with all the infrastructure for pilgrims as JohnnieWalker said.

Altough I never did the part from Vila do Conde to Caminha I suppose that if the places you are looking to stay are not real pilgrim's albergues the chances are they are almost full at this time of the year (August is the busiest holiday season around here)...

About Tui/Valença, what I can tell you is that I stayed in Valença, first because I am Portuguese of course! and then because I was very tired that day (I walked from Vilar de Mouros - near Caminha - straight to Valença).
Anyway Tui is just after the river and, from what I remember, has a very pleasant historical center. Also in Valença you have a very special kind of defense fortress that is worth a visit.

About the language, I think you dont't have to worry. If you can speak spanish the majority of people will understand you here. Also you'll find some people that speak english - especially younger people.

Hope it helps!
Buen Camino!

 

[carlosmlva]

Ups! Now that I think about it, I told you something wrong, the metro station is Mercado and not Senhor de Matosinhos!

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hi Richie, Altough I never did the part from Vila do Conde to Caminha I suppose that if the places you are looking to stay are not real pilgrim's albergues the chances are they are almost full at this time of the year (August is the busiest holiday season around here)...Buen Camino!

I agree. This is a real danger on the Coastal route where there are few dedicated albergues. The whole peninsula seems to be on holiday at the moment. Later in the year I hope to have a comprehensive list of accommodation along the route so that pilgrims can phone/book ahead.

 

[richie_a]

Carlo, John.
Thanks so much. I'm in Porto now, going to start on the 13th instead of 12th as I was late to get in on the 11th. I had a longer day than expected; rather than train it from Fatima to Porto, I had an urge for a detour to Tomar. Well worth it, it was beautiful, then a late train made me arrive in Porto at 1930

But anyway, thanks so much for the info, I'm a little nervous about accommodation in Vila do Conde but after that I haven't decided yet. I know it's not real smart with both of you suggesting inland, but I'm still thinking that I might just give the coastal way a try, if I can't find something in Marinhas, then I'll back track and go inland. I might change my mind, John, I hope to meet you in a couple of weeks and let you know

Thanks again for all the info, I'm still in wifi range for another night if any more ideas come to light

Kind regards
Rich

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Rich - wherever you can in Portugal call in at the local Tourist Office they will be able to speak English (99% certain!) and can book for you as well as booking ahead by telephone for you.

See you in Santiago.

John

 

[richie_a]

Great tip John, thanks very much. It's not something I would ordinarily try

Thanks
Rich

 

[renegadepilgrim]

Not to hijack this thread, but in my research on the coastal route, there are albergues and youth hostels in some of the cities and I have also noticed a lot of people on Couchsurfing.com in many of the larger cities. I'm planning to do a combo of albergues, youth hostels, couchsurfing and hotels along the way. I'll be reporting my findings when I return.