Porto to Santiago (Some further very personal observations)

[davkel]

OK, so I promised on the back of your many kind requests that I would update on my observations of the Camino Portuguese from Porto to Santiago. So:

General Observations

1. Once again, waymarking is good. Within Portugal the different local governments along with the Via Lusitana seem to have taken their responsibilities seriously. The ONLY thing that can be a little disconcerting is in the transitions between one jurisdiction and another. In one section, yellow and blue (for the Camino Fatima) ribbons have been tied along the route to supplement the arrows - if nothing else it lends a festive air...
2. The only exception to this is once you hit Santiago ironically. It was the only time I saw confused pilgrims.
   
3. Which segues nicely - you saw pilgrims. Walking! This was a big difference from what went before and took a bit of getting used to. I am glad that I have made these observations in two sections, because, as an experience, they were really like two separate caminos. Neither better than the other, just different.

Specific Observations

1. I STRONGLY recommend walking out of Porto via Vila do Conde. This is not based on the ability to make a comparison with the traditional route, but walking on boardwalks by the sea feels like a rest day in comparison with the hard road walking of the day into Porto. And Vila do Conde is a wonderful spot - and another dinner to remember. You pay somewhat on the 10km walk back to the camino proper - but I say it´s a small price.
2. Casa Fernanda is as good as everyone says. Fernanda and Jacinto were able to make a disparate group lifelong friends in the course of an evening. That´s an amazing gift.
3. Sao Joao de Madeira was not as bad as I´d been led to believe. We had a wonderful dinner at a restaurant that had upcycled traditional Northern Portuguese dishes (duck rice and Francesinha). We left full and our host was so gracious...
   
4. I stand by my 'Portugese are the nicest people in the universe claim'. I have seen no evidence to convince me otherwise.
5. Another big call: I think the Galician leg of the Portuguese is more scenic, more varied and JUST BETTER than the corresponding section of the Camino Frances.
   
6. Likewise the walk into Santiago - to be able to be ALONE on the trail on the final day of walking, in May, was a great gift
7. I became a great proponent to people to walk the Lisbon to Porto section while we were walking. Apparently all the German guidebooks (and there were a LOT of Germans walking from Porto) all say not to do this section as there is nothing and no-one there.

Finally and to reiterate - the two sections were quite different but wonderful in their differences. I feel very blessed to have experienced them both.

Cheers

 

[amorfati1]

OK, so I promised on the back of your many kind requests that I would update on my observations of the Camino Portuguese from Porto to Santiago. So:

General Observations

1. Once again, waymarking is good. Within Portugal the different local governments along with the Via Lusitana seem to have taken their responsibilities seriously. The ONLY thing that can be a little disconcerting is in the transitions between one jurisdiction and another. In one section, yellow and blue (for the Camino Fatima) ribbons have been tied along the route to supplement the arrows - if nothing else it lends a festive air...
2. The only exception to this is once you hit Santiago ironically. It was the only time I saw confused pilgrims.
   
3. Which segues nicely - you saw pilgrims. Walking! This was a big difference from what went before and took a bit of getting used to. I am glad that I have made these observations in two sections, because, as an experience, they were really like two separate caminos. Neither better than the other, just different.

Specific Observations

1. I STRONGLY recommend walking out of Porto via Vila do Conde. This is not based on the ability to make a comparison with the traditional route, but walking on boardwalks by the sea feels like a rest day in comparison with the hard road walking of the day into Porto. And Vila do Conde is a wonderful spot - and another dinner to remember. You pay somewhat on the 10km walk back to the camino proper - but I say it´s a small price.
2. Casa Fernanda is as good as everyone says. Fernanda and Jacinto were able to make a disparate group lifelong friends in the course of an evening. That´s an amazing gift.
3. Sao Joao de Madeira was not as bad as I´d been led to believe. We had a wonderful dinner at a restaurant that had upcycled traditional Northern Portuguese dishes (duck rice and Francesinha). We left full and our host was so gracious...
   
4. I stand by my 'Portugese are the nicest people in the universe claim'. I have seen no evidence to convince me otherwise.
5. Another big call: I think the Galician leg of the Portuguese is more scenic, more varied and JUST BETTER than the corresponding section of the Camino Frances.
   
6. Likewise the walk into Santiago - to be able to be ALONE on the trail on the final day of walking, in May, was a great gift
7. I became a great proponent to people to walk the Lisbon to Porto section while we were walking. Apparently all the German guidebooks (and there were a LOT of Germans walking from Porto) all say not to do this section as there is nothing and no-one there.

Finally and to reiterate - the two sections were quite different but wonderful in their differences. I feel very blessed to have experienced them both.

Cheers

yes - different.
vive la difference - or whatever it might be in francese
i enjoyed both sections very much - that is to say: i love the camino portuguese in its entirety ... and yes, walking the board-walks after porto were a treat ...
happy you enjoyed it obviously as well. bom caminho!

 

[coldweather]

Thank you for your observations.

I enjoyed your comment "I STRONGLY recommend walking out of Porto via Vila do Conde." I am planning to walk the CP in April 2016 just after Easter. I would like to walk the coastal route but I am anticipating the weather to be harsh and cold in April. Time will tell and I likely will plan 2 paths and let the weather decide.

I walked the CF in May 2013 from Pamplona to Santiago. Can you please help me relate the infrastructure of the CP to the CF? Are there plenty of alburges? CP seems less traveled so I am not expecting the race for beds ---- is this correct?

What is the cost of the alburges and of the pilgrim meals?

I am a bit concerned about the length of the traditional stages on the CP. On the CF I tried to stay at 22-25Km per day. I see on the CP 30Km is close to the standard. Any suggestions?

Thanks again for your post. There are fewer posts about the CP so I am very pleased you posted.

 

[Walli Walker]

Thanks, Davkel. We start from Porto in 11 days so your post is timely. We will walk the coast to Vila do Conde. Looks like we'll have to go back sometime and start at Lisbon!

 

[Camembert]

Thank you for your observations.

I enjoyed your comment "I STRONGLY recommend walking out of Porto via Vila do Conde." I am planning to walk the CP in April 2016 just after Easter. I would like to walk the coastal route but I am anticipating the weather to be harsh and cold in April. Time will tell and I likely will plan 2 paths and let the weather decide.

I walked the CF in May 2013 from Pamplona to Santiago. Can you please help me relate the infrastructure of the CP to the CF? Are there plenty of alburges? CP seems less traveled so I am not expecting the race for beds ---- is this correct?

What is the cost of the alburges and of the pilgrim meals?

I am a bit concerned about the length of the traditional stages on the CP. On the CF I tried to stay at 22-25Km per day. I see on the CP 30Km is close to the standard. Any suggestions?

Thanks again for your post. There are fewer posts about the CP so I am very pleased you posted.

You will plan two paths ? The rain will fall on both I can assure you !
If you read back for some time on this forum, you will see that there are thousands of posts and all answer your questions..
If you read back you'll see that between Porto and Santiago 30 km is not close to the standard but that you find a place to sleep close to the 15 kms.
The Portugese caminho is the Portugese caminho and is totaly different to the Frence camino. There are enough albuerges but some are privat, especially in Portugal. Few albergues have common meals so you have to find a restaurant, bar or supermercado to find your meal.
Some have kitchen facilities some have not.
Albergues in Portugal are donative to 12 € In Spain if they are Xunta albergues 6€. Pilgrimmeals ,if you see them offered sometimes 5 €, sometimes more. Menu do dia in Portugal as in Spain between 8 and 10€ for a theee course neal with drinks.
I just finished the camino Portuges three days ago, for the second time.

 

[SabsP]

I'm still debating the route out of Vila Do Conde towards Rates. I'm hopeless with maps so I can't figure out the two routes Brierley mentions. Ah well still time..till august to work it out.I always have to fret about something

 

[Kiwi-family]

We plan on walking from Matosinhos to Vila Cha and then skipping inland to stay at the monastery at Vairoa. Not wanting to miss Vila do Conde, we have plotted a route there and then on to Arcos where we hope to pick up the arrows again. I share the map here in case it helps you.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=zPwTbt5Dg2zw.kEaHSD-9hxmo

And here's the previous day in case you're interested
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=zolBt8rIFn5s.kj881y0TfwRw

And one from the cathedral to Matosinhos - although I don't know how you could possibly get lost if you keep the river on your left! (I made the map to plot the distance rather than work out where to walk)
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=zkkUwoRy9TUc.ktnrqQhJuSBw

 

[amancio]

I'm still debating the route out of Vila Do Conde towards Rates. I'm hopeless with maps so I can't figure out the two routes Brierley mentions. Ah well still time..till august to work it out.I always have to fret about something

do not worry, the way from Vila do Conde to Rates is clearly marked, it is a bit dangerous at places, and there is lots of cobblestones and tarmac, it is not a particularly pretty route, quite a bit of traffic too.

As you cross the river in Vila do Conde, you will see yellow arrows pointing to your right and bringing in a 270 degree turn to your left under the bridge.

If you follow that arrow, you will be taking the coast route

Instead, if you follow up the river to a Cruceiro, you will soon see other arrows marking the way to San Pedro de Rates.

 

[jsalt]

Kiwi-family: Nice planning. You are right, difficult to get lost alongside the river and coast to Matosinhos. I have walked it twice, love it. Built up all the way, but entertaining watching the people having fun on the beaches. Take care if some of your route is along roads. In Portugal they are often very narrow, very busy and have no shoulder whatsoever. Very dangerous if walking along them. Bom caminho. Jill

 

[davkel]

I'm still debating the route out of Vila Do Conde towards Rates. I'm hopeless with maps so I can't figure out the two routes Brierley mentions. Ah well still time..till august to work it out.I always have to fret about something

Quick suggestion that I used. The whole Brierley recommended route from Vila do Conde to tejoin the camino proper can very 'walked' on Google Strret View. You can look for the arrows etc and it's quite reassuring (if a little obsessive/compulsive)

 

[SabsP]

Quick suggestion that I used. The whole Brierley recommended route from Vila do Conde to tejoin the camino proper can very 'walked' on Google Strret View. You can look for the arrows etc and it's quite reassuring (if a little obsessive/compulsive)

Cheers!

 

[Camembert]

do not worry, the way from Vila do Conde to Rates is clearly marked, it is a bit dangerous at places, and there is lots of cobblestones and tarmac, it is not a particularly pretty route, quite a bit of traffic too.

As you cross the river in Vila do Conde, you will see yellow arrows pointing to your right and bringing in a 270 degree turn to your left under the bridge.

If you follow that arrow, you will be taking the coast route

Instead, if you follow up the river to a Cruceiro, you will soon see other arrows marking the way to San Pedro de Rates.

Exactly. Just over the bridge turn right and follow the river about 1 km till about you cross the metro .there are the way markers to Rates.
By the way follow the waymarker under the bridge is a nice idea too.
Directly after you went underneath the bridge there is a fantastic restaurant,le Villageois.
Allmost next door just across a street with on the corner an Opel car dealer, is hostal Bellamar.we did not go in but spoke some Germans who found it great.

 

[SabsP]

yes but one route goes to Igreja de Beiriz and Bouco and the other one to Junquiera. I will choose the first option

 

[Introibo]

Hi Davkel

Great report. Great summary of the Porto to Santiago Caminho. Can't wait for September to roll round.

Procedamus in pace.