Portia1
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances 2009, Portuguese 2012
Frances 2016, 2019
OK, Arn. This is for you!
From Porto, take the metro to Matosinhos Mercado. After staying at the Dixo Hostel (highly recommend!), we left from the Sao Bento metro stop around 7am, had to change lines (don’t forget to validate each time) to get to Matosinhos. Arrived there around 8am. Because we stayed in Porto three days (including the day we left), we purchased the Tourist Card, 15euro, for unlimited travel and zones for metro, bus and funicular from the airport Tourist Office. We ended up using it alot so got our moneys worth,
The metro is at street level here so step off the train at the Mercado stop and bear to your left. Take the spiral staircase up to the bridge, turn left over the bridge and then bear left at the roundabout and go straight toward the sea. You will need to cross a busy highway to get to the sea boardwalk and then turn north (right). A very pleasant walk along the ocean on a nice surface. There are a number of bars right on the boardwalk but also others on the other side of the highway. There are a few arrows here but the way is pretty clear.
The boardwalk ends around Bairro da Louca and there are those who turned right toward Mindelo (there is a metro stop in Mindelo so you can take the metro to Vila do Conde). We instead took the ramp down to the sand, walked about 250 meters on the sand to where there is an arrow to your right. Take the beaten path and not the one the arrow seems to point toward. This will take you by some monuments and then down across a bridge and you will soon find yourself back on the boardwalk. We stopped at a very friendly bar on Praca de Mindelo. The owner painted rocks for each of us with the date and the logo of the bar. He assured us that it was only 5k to Vila do Conde (this was to be the refrain for a number of days–“only 5k more”). The boardwalk ended and leads you here and there through subdivisions of expensive houses with beautiful yards until it finally takes you to a sandy path through cane fields. At one point on this path you come to a Y with no arrow–bear to the right. The path takes you to another Y (paved) where there is a taxi stand to your left (with an ATM!). There is NO arrow at this intersection. The better way is to go right and go to the main highway (N13) and turn left. This will take you to the bridge over the river into Vila do Conde. The taxi lady told us to go straight along a shaded cobblestone road–which we did, much to our chagrin as there are no further arrows as you follow the road. When you get to where there are dunes to your left and you are passing some apartment buildings (where a very nice lady shouted to us from her third floor balcony to take the road to the right and follow it to the T. At the T, turn left. This is a narrow street with small houses on the left. The paving will end and you will now be on dirt road which will once again turn into a paved road taking you to where the bridge begins to cross the river. Cross the bridge into Vila do Conde. We did not see any arrows on the bridge.
We stayed at O’ Manco d’ Areia right on the Praca da Republica–about 200 meters from the bridge. Delightful gentlemen who opened our wine for us and provided glasses so we could sit out in the park out front at sunset and enjoy the beauty of the river. We went to the farmacia, the supermercado, the fruit vendor and then a light dinner on the little square behind the Manco.
The next morning, the bar/café at the bridge corner told us to turn east and follow the river on the road. We did not see a single arrow until Arcos. You will pass a convent on your left (with a Roman aquaduct), cross the metro tracks, and pass by silos on your right. When you come to a T, cross the highway as there is lots of construction going on and turn to the right. Follow the road–be careful as traffic is really fast. You will pass some bars and a bakery on your left as you go up a curve to the right and come to what is Tourguinha. There is a roundabout with a park bench. Take the second road (essentially you will be going straight ahead). You will come to a “Welcome to Tourguinho” sign (Brierley’s map is WRONG. It shows Tourguinho in a completely different place) and as you continue up and around, there will be a very friendly bar on the left with a very clean bathroom. Then ahead of you you will see a directional sign for Junqueria. Turn right here and cross over a stone bridge with a cascade to the left. Continue to follow this road–watch out. There are stone walls on both sides, a narrow road with gutters presenting some significant challenges for those who are fearful of fast moving vehicles! There is a beautiful little church and cemetery in Junqueria, a farmacia and a tienda with a nice fruit selection. Continue on this road following directional signs toward Arcos. The traffic isn’t so heavy here and you are walking along farm fields. You will cross over a highway. When you are coming close to Arcos, the Camino from Vilarinho will join you from the left via a path through the corn fields. Suddenly there will be many arrows where before there were few to none!
When you arrive at Sao Pedro de Rates, you have a choice. You can follow the arrows which lead you to the church but also then take you through back alleys and cobblestone streets (which you will grow to dislike intensely) back to the same street you could have taken directly if you simply turned right when you see the crosswalk in front of the church. This will take you up to the Rates alberque and toward Barcelos. If you stop at the alberque, the key and a sello is available from the little shop just beyond the alberque at the Y in the road. It is a little tienda with limited supplies–but she does have a well stocked freezer with entree items. There is also a bakery just north of this shop off the Camino–there is a sign. The Rates alberque is very nice. Plenty of showers with hot water. There is limited laundry hanging because only three racks but the patio also has a picnic table–a very pleasant way to enjoy the late afternoon and journal. The kitchen is well equipped. The rooms are 6 to 8 bunks a piece. There is a supermercado to the east of the church in a modern strip center. We were able to find fresh produce here, as well as yogurt, etc. We cooked dinner at the alberque and invited others to join us.
When you leave the albergue, turn to your left and go up the hill. You will then pass through farmfields and forest. A very pleasant walk. Part of it is on roadway. We stopped at Pedra Furada for coffee. The walk into Barcelos is relatively nice. When you get into town, turn left to arrive at the bridge into old Barcelos. You can shorten things a bit by turning right at the end of the bridge rather than right and then turn left at the first street. We stayed at the Residential Arantes right on the main square and where the famous Barcelos market is set up on Thursday morning. The Arantes was delightful–we had rooms on the front at 15e pp–and very centrally located. We took advantage of browsing the market the next morning–it opens around 7:30/8am. Take your camera as there is so much there you will not believe the array of goods! If we hadn’t planned to stop at Casa Fernanda, we would have loaded up. Lots of gypsies so watch your stuff.
When you cross the highway and come to a little church, Sao Sabastian with a picnic table under a tree, you are close to Casa Fernanda. Follow the road along farm fields and vineyards until you come to the sign, Lugar do Corgo. When you see this sign–STOP! You are right there. Fernanda’s is there to your left–a little white house with a bunkhouse nearby. It can be difficult to see the house depending on how high the garden is. There is a sign for Casa Fernanda but it can get turned around. You will pass under the grape vines and into a little bit of heaven. It was the highlight of our trip. There are nine beds in the bunkhouse and four in the house. There is a delightful shaded patio area and more than ample laundry drying lines. Two bathrooms with showers. They provided such wonderful, warm hospitality which was matched by the food and drink. Breakfast is provided as well.
The next day has its ups and downs but mostly quiet road way with many shrines along the way. The walk into Ponte de Lima is nice–through the park and along the river. When you reach the Roman bridge over the river, turn left and go over the bridge–the alberque is the pinkish building to the left. Not a nice man there. He was angry when we asked if we could leave our packs (they don’t open until 5pm) while we explored the town. He grumpily agreed to let us leave our packs near the pottery shop behind the alberque. There are no pillows, no blankets. The drying area by the time you get your laundry done is shaded. Ponte de Lima is a small town with lovely little shops for fruit, bread, and vegetables. Lots of bars and cafes. Many of the bars have internet access. Get a map from the tourist office–located in the medieval tower as you enter the old town.
The next day we stayed in Rubiaes. This is a long day. You will come down to the alberque and enter through the back gate or go around to the front (and climb the stairs). There are separate men and women’s bathrooms with two showers, two toilets each. This is pretty much in the middle of nowhere. To get food, leave the front of the alberque and turn right onto the road. Follow it down and around. There is a bar/café at the curve. Go a little further over a bridge and you will come to a little bar/tienda with very limited supplies. This is about 500 meters from the alberque. You will pass this bar/tienda the next morning on the Camino. When you leave the alberque in the morning, watch for the arrow on the left directing you to turn down onto a pathway–it is easy to miss, especially if you leave early. If you miss it, simply continue on the road to the bar/tienda and rejoin the Camino there.
Brierley shows this as a climb but trust me, it is gradual and you will hardly notice it. There are several bars along the way. Watch for the left turn just beyond Fontoura. I missed it–was zoned out, and two ladies out for a walk turned me around and walked me back to it. This puts you on sandy pathway for a while. Walking into Valenca, you will cross through a parking lot with bad vibes–before you you will see an arrow telling you to turn left. This will be the last arrow you will see for a very long time. Take the left and keep straight until you finally come to the roundabout near the fortress. There is a nice park on the other side of the roundabout with bars/cafes and park benches. You will follow the directional signs for Spain, coming to the bridge over the river into Spain.
As you start up the hill to Tui, be aware there is an unnecessary detour–the arrow will point you to the right past the Parador and along the river only to have you climb steeply back up. Unless you really do want to go down to the river (there is a nice view of the bridge from here), simply ignore the right turn and go straight and bingo, you will see another arrow. We stayed at the Alberque de Camino, a private albergue close to the Cathedral. The public alberque opened at 5pm so we liked that we could get into this one earlier. The rooms were small–5 to 4 bunks per room–and lovely. There is a tiny kitchen and eating area but adequate. HOWEVER, the bathroom situation is a challenge. There is one bathroom for 24 people. It has one toilet, two sinks and a two headed shower. The sign on the door tells you to shower with someone else to keep the waiting time short! In the morning this was a real problem. Those using the toilet meant that no one else could brush their teeth. The laundry drying is under a shaded cover so drying was near impossible. They told us they offered a pilgrim breakfast for 3euro at 7 am but when we went down the next morning, the bar was dark. So mixed reviews here. To rejoin the Camino, go out of the alberque, turn left and at the T, turn left again. The arrows were not always readily apparent on the first stretch out of Tui so be watchful.
We stopped at the San Telmo cross. It is a nice place to take a break–stones to sit on, a brook, and shaded. Over the river and through the woods, there was nothing available until we came down a very steep road from what I would call a rest stop (with sello) at the top–it was closed. There is a bar to the right as you get to the bottom with a sello. Very clean bathroom around outside. Then as you bear left, there is a small tienda right there. She hadn’t even turned on her lights but when she saw us, she came out and beckoned us in. We were able to purchase warm bread (yum!), fresh bananas and a few snacks to tide us over. Then came the long slog. So happy we did it on a Sunday without all the truck traffic. It seemed to go on forever and no shade. When you get close to the old town, there will be a turn to the left–there is a Camino marker here with less than 100k to go. Following this road you will pass a lovely little church and find yourself on a pedestrian way through the heart of the old town. Lots of little shops, bars, etc. The pastry shop on the right has the most delicious cookies! Continue straight until you see the sign for the alberque. It can be easy to miss. It is right where the pedestrian way and vehicular traffic come together. Turn left, there will be a cafeteria/bar across the street to your right (open at 5am) and cross over the train tracks, pass a little park/playground and cross the bridge to the alberque. It opens at 1 pm. Separate showers and toilets for men and women. Showers and toilets downstairs and a very nice laundry area; separate toilets upstairs. We were told hanging laundry out to dry was at our own risk because it was a very public area. After days of not being able to get laundry dry, we took our chances! Leaving the next morning, go back the way you came until you get back to that intersection–bear left.
This is a hard day with steep climb, loose rocks, steep descents but also pretty. We stopped in Redondela. Brierley’s map is out of scale. The alberque is very centrally located (which is a challenge in the evening because it is adjacent to an area families like to use for children to play late into the night) and nice. There are separate men and women’s bathrooms with beautiful black tile and stainless steel fixtures. But the lights over the showers did not work so with the black tile, it was an interesting experience. The laundry drying area is covered and things did not dry well. The bunks are rather close here–in fact pushed together. There really is not enough room in the room for all the packs. The combination of such closeness, the noise outside and differing thoughts about the lights, a fight almost broke out here. Lots of great cafes/bars in the area. Nice supermercados, fruit stands, etc. There is free internet access at the library–go up to the second floor, look for the frosted glass (you can barely see the computers through it), open the door and take a seat at an open machine. Be sure to visit the church here. The sacristan will give you a sello.
The walk out of Redondela is very nice. Views of the sea and then the Ria de Vigo as you climb. There is a stand where people have left their shells–not me! When you come into Arcade, become vigilant as the arrows are sometimes confusing. There are some steep little climbs as you go through the very old village. Then you come to a boulder climb–tiring but not as bad as loose rocks.
We stopped in Pontevedra. Walked past the public alberque–there is a hostel and pilgrim bar across the street from it. We stayed at Hostel Alicia on the Spanish Square. Alicia is lovely. She speaks both Spanish and French fluently. After hearing our tale of woe about laundry, she offered to wash ours–there are lines outside the windows. It was 15euro pp for our rooms. Loved Pontevedra! Could come back here any time! Lots of bars/cafes and restaurants. We went to a restaurant near the docks–excellent! Be sure to visit the Praza Peregrina.
We stayed with a friend of Alicia’s (Pontevedra) in Caldas de Reis just down from the Lotus Hotel on Mateo Sagaste, 48. We stopped in the public alberque–just over the bridge and immediately then behind you. Others stayed here. Mixed reviews. Lots of bars/cafes near the alberque. The one adjacent is open early.
Walked to Padron the next day. Arrows fairly consistent. A private albergue Fedra on the outskirts of town with a huge internet access sign. There is a huge market as you enter town–just before the park. We decided to go on but spoke with several people who found the public alberque full and stayed at the monastery. They said it was a highlight–the accommodations, the food and the special mass. We stayed at the Pension a Milagrossa in Picarana. We could go no further in the heat that day. This is an expensive–for what you get–place to stop. The pilgrim meal (same as was served to the many locals who ate here) was the worst. Almost raw, no seasoning, wine undrinkable (something you won’t hear from many pilgrims!). The beds were good, the rooms quiet so we got a good night’s sleep before our last day.
As you leave Teo and come close to Seve, watch for arrows to the left. It is VERY easy to miss. There is a café ahead of you at the roundabout. If you miss the arrow and go to the café, turn left as you leave the café and go up the roadway until you see a car repair shop. Just before the shop, there is a road to the left which will take you back to the Camino (ask us how we know!! And we weren’t the only ones). The walk into Santiago from here is a nice one. Far more pleasant, I think, than the Frances. Brierley shows the elevations at far greater than they are. We arrived at the School for Infants (on your right) and wondered when we were going to be going up hill–we were already there! Plenty of arrows. In fact at one point, there were a whole bunch of them–come on–can’t you spread them around a little more along the whole Camino?? As we went along the fences up to the bridge to cross the rail road tracks, we decided to put some crosses in the fence (like there are on the Frances). Hopefully those who come after us will do the same! There were none! Hopefully I will hear that this tradition has been carried on.
Once you get into Santiago area, follow the hospital signs and then be sure you are on the Rua San Pedro. Not a lot of arrows here so be watchful. You will go through the Alameda Park and cross into the old city of Santiago. Pass the bars right there and bear to the left on the first street and come to the Cathedral. YEA!
From Porto, take the metro to Matosinhos Mercado. After staying at the Dixo Hostel (highly recommend!), we left from the Sao Bento metro stop around 7am, had to change lines (don’t forget to validate each time) to get to Matosinhos. Arrived there around 8am. Because we stayed in Porto three days (including the day we left), we purchased the Tourist Card, 15euro, for unlimited travel and zones for metro, bus and funicular from the airport Tourist Office. We ended up using it alot so got our moneys worth,
The metro is at street level here so step off the train at the Mercado stop and bear to your left. Take the spiral staircase up to the bridge, turn left over the bridge and then bear left at the roundabout and go straight toward the sea. You will need to cross a busy highway to get to the sea boardwalk and then turn north (right). A very pleasant walk along the ocean on a nice surface. There are a number of bars right on the boardwalk but also others on the other side of the highway. There are a few arrows here but the way is pretty clear.
The boardwalk ends around Bairro da Louca and there are those who turned right toward Mindelo (there is a metro stop in Mindelo so you can take the metro to Vila do Conde). We instead took the ramp down to the sand, walked about 250 meters on the sand to where there is an arrow to your right. Take the beaten path and not the one the arrow seems to point toward. This will take you by some monuments and then down across a bridge and you will soon find yourself back on the boardwalk. We stopped at a very friendly bar on Praca de Mindelo. The owner painted rocks for each of us with the date and the logo of the bar. He assured us that it was only 5k to Vila do Conde (this was to be the refrain for a number of days–“only 5k more”). The boardwalk ended and leads you here and there through subdivisions of expensive houses with beautiful yards until it finally takes you to a sandy path through cane fields. At one point on this path you come to a Y with no arrow–bear to the right. The path takes you to another Y (paved) where there is a taxi stand to your left (with an ATM!). There is NO arrow at this intersection. The better way is to go right and go to the main highway (N13) and turn left. This will take you to the bridge over the river into Vila do Conde. The taxi lady told us to go straight along a shaded cobblestone road–which we did, much to our chagrin as there are no further arrows as you follow the road. When you get to where there are dunes to your left and you are passing some apartment buildings (where a very nice lady shouted to us from her third floor balcony to take the road to the right and follow it to the T. At the T, turn left. This is a narrow street with small houses on the left. The paving will end and you will now be on dirt road which will once again turn into a paved road taking you to where the bridge begins to cross the river. Cross the bridge into Vila do Conde. We did not see any arrows on the bridge.
We stayed at O’ Manco d’ Areia right on the Praca da Republica–about 200 meters from the bridge. Delightful gentlemen who opened our wine for us and provided glasses so we could sit out in the park out front at sunset and enjoy the beauty of the river. We went to the farmacia, the supermercado, the fruit vendor and then a light dinner on the little square behind the Manco.
The next morning, the bar/café at the bridge corner told us to turn east and follow the river on the road. We did not see a single arrow until Arcos. You will pass a convent on your left (with a Roman aquaduct), cross the metro tracks, and pass by silos on your right. When you come to a T, cross the highway as there is lots of construction going on and turn to the right. Follow the road–be careful as traffic is really fast. You will pass some bars and a bakery on your left as you go up a curve to the right and come to what is Tourguinha. There is a roundabout with a park bench. Take the second road (essentially you will be going straight ahead). You will come to a “Welcome to Tourguinho” sign (Brierley’s map is WRONG. It shows Tourguinho in a completely different place) and as you continue up and around, there will be a very friendly bar on the left with a very clean bathroom. Then ahead of you you will see a directional sign for Junqueria. Turn right here and cross over a stone bridge with a cascade to the left. Continue to follow this road–watch out. There are stone walls on both sides, a narrow road with gutters presenting some significant challenges for those who are fearful of fast moving vehicles! There is a beautiful little church and cemetery in Junqueria, a farmacia and a tienda with a nice fruit selection. Continue on this road following directional signs toward Arcos. The traffic isn’t so heavy here and you are walking along farm fields. You will cross over a highway. When you are coming close to Arcos, the Camino from Vilarinho will join you from the left via a path through the corn fields. Suddenly there will be many arrows where before there were few to none!
When you arrive at Sao Pedro de Rates, you have a choice. You can follow the arrows which lead you to the church but also then take you through back alleys and cobblestone streets (which you will grow to dislike intensely) back to the same street you could have taken directly if you simply turned right when you see the crosswalk in front of the church. This will take you up to the Rates alberque and toward Barcelos. If you stop at the alberque, the key and a sello is available from the little shop just beyond the alberque at the Y in the road. It is a little tienda with limited supplies–but she does have a well stocked freezer with entree items. There is also a bakery just north of this shop off the Camino–there is a sign. The Rates alberque is very nice. Plenty of showers with hot water. There is limited laundry hanging because only three racks but the patio also has a picnic table–a very pleasant way to enjoy the late afternoon and journal. The kitchen is well equipped. The rooms are 6 to 8 bunks a piece. There is a supermercado to the east of the church in a modern strip center. We were able to find fresh produce here, as well as yogurt, etc. We cooked dinner at the alberque and invited others to join us.
When you leave the albergue, turn to your left and go up the hill. You will then pass through farmfields and forest. A very pleasant walk. Part of it is on roadway. We stopped at Pedra Furada for coffee. The walk into Barcelos is relatively nice. When you get into town, turn left to arrive at the bridge into old Barcelos. You can shorten things a bit by turning right at the end of the bridge rather than right and then turn left at the first street. We stayed at the Residential Arantes right on the main square and where the famous Barcelos market is set up on Thursday morning. The Arantes was delightful–we had rooms on the front at 15e pp–and very centrally located. We took advantage of browsing the market the next morning–it opens around 7:30/8am. Take your camera as there is so much there you will not believe the array of goods! If we hadn’t planned to stop at Casa Fernanda, we would have loaded up. Lots of gypsies so watch your stuff.
When you cross the highway and come to a little church, Sao Sabastian with a picnic table under a tree, you are close to Casa Fernanda. Follow the road along farm fields and vineyards until you come to the sign, Lugar do Corgo. When you see this sign–STOP! You are right there. Fernanda’s is there to your left–a little white house with a bunkhouse nearby. It can be difficult to see the house depending on how high the garden is. There is a sign for Casa Fernanda but it can get turned around. You will pass under the grape vines and into a little bit of heaven. It was the highlight of our trip. There are nine beds in the bunkhouse and four in the house. There is a delightful shaded patio area and more than ample laundry drying lines. Two bathrooms with showers. They provided such wonderful, warm hospitality which was matched by the food and drink. Breakfast is provided as well.
The next day has its ups and downs but mostly quiet road way with many shrines along the way. The walk into Ponte de Lima is nice–through the park and along the river. When you reach the Roman bridge over the river, turn left and go over the bridge–the alberque is the pinkish building to the left. Not a nice man there. He was angry when we asked if we could leave our packs (they don’t open until 5pm) while we explored the town. He grumpily agreed to let us leave our packs near the pottery shop behind the alberque. There are no pillows, no blankets. The drying area by the time you get your laundry done is shaded. Ponte de Lima is a small town with lovely little shops for fruit, bread, and vegetables. Lots of bars and cafes. Many of the bars have internet access. Get a map from the tourist office–located in the medieval tower as you enter the old town.
The next day we stayed in Rubiaes. This is a long day. You will come down to the alberque and enter through the back gate or go around to the front (and climb the stairs). There are separate men and women’s bathrooms with two showers, two toilets each. This is pretty much in the middle of nowhere. To get food, leave the front of the alberque and turn right onto the road. Follow it down and around. There is a bar/café at the curve. Go a little further over a bridge and you will come to a little bar/tienda with very limited supplies. This is about 500 meters from the alberque. You will pass this bar/tienda the next morning on the Camino. When you leave the alberque in the morning, watch for the arrow on the left directing you to turn down onto a pathway–it is easy to miss, especially if you leave early. If you miss it, simply continue on the road to the bar/tienda and rejoin the Camino there.
Brierley shows this as a climb but trust me, it is gradual and you will hardly notice it. There are several bars along the way. Watch for the left turn just beyond Fontoura. I missed it–was zoned out, and two ladies out for a walk turned me around and walked me back to it. This puts you on sandy pathway for a while. Walking into Valenca, you will cross through a parking lot with bad vibes–before you you will see an arrow telling you to turn left. This will be the last arrow you will see for a very long time. Take the left and keep straight until you finally come to the roundabout near the fortress. There is a nice park on the other side of the roundabout with bars/cafes and park benches. You will follow the directional signs for Spain, coming to the bridge over the river into Spain.
As you start up the hill to Tui, be aware there is an unnecessary detour–the arrow will point you to the right past the Parador and along the river only to have you climb steeply back up. Unless you really do want to go down to the river (there is a nice view of the bridge from here), simply ignore the right turn and go straight and bingo, you will see another arrow. We stayed at the Alberque de Camino, a private albergue close to the Cathedral. The public alberque opened at 5pm so we liked that we could get into this one earlier. The rooms were small–5 to 4 bunks per room–and lovely. There is a tiny kitchen and eating area but adequate. HOWEVER, the bathroom situation is a challenge. There is one bathroom for 24 people. It has one toilet, two sinks and a two headed shower. The sign on the door tells you to shower with someone else to keep the waiting time short! In the morning this was a real problem. Those using the toilet meant that no one else could brush their teeth. The laundry drying is under a shaded cover so drying was near impossible. They told us they offered a pilgrim breakfast for 3euro at 7 am but when we went down the next morning, the bar was dark. So mixed reviews here. To rejoin the Camino, go out of the alberque, turn left and at the T, turn left again. The arrows were not always readily apparent on the first stretch out of Tui so be watchful.
We stopped at the San Telmo cross. It is a nice place to take a break–stones to sit on, a brook, and shaded. Over the river and through the woods, there was nothing available until we came down a very steep road from what I would call a rest stop (with sello) at the top–it was closed. There is a bar to the right as you get to the bottom with a sello. Very clean bathroom around outside. Then as you bear left, there is a small tienda right there. She hadn’t even turned on her lights but when she saw us, she came out and beckoned us in. We were able to purchase warm bread (yum!), fresh bananas and a few snacks to tide us over. Then came the long slog. So happy we did it on a Sunday without all the truck traffic. It seemed to go on forever and no shade. When you get close to the old town, there will be a turn to the left–there is a Camino marker here with less than 100k to go. Following this road you will pass a lovely little church and find yourself on a pedestrian way through the heart of the old town. Lots of little shops, bars, etc. The pastry shop on the right has the most delicious cookies! Continue straight until you see the sign for the alberque. It can be easy to miss. It is right where the pedestrian way and vehicular traffic come together. Turn left, there will be a cafeteria/bar across the street to your right (open at 5am) and cross over the train tracks, pass a little park/playground and cross the bridge to the alberque. It opens at 1 pm. Separate showers and toilets for men and women. Showers and toilets downstairs and a very nice laundry area; separate toilets upstairs. We were told hanging laundry out to dry was at our own risk because it was a very public area. After days of not being able to get laundry dry, we took our chances! Leaving the next morning, go back the way you came until you get back to that intersection–bear left.
This is a hard day with steep climb, loose rocks, steep descents but also pretty. We stopped in Redondela. Brierley’s map is out of scale. The alberque is very centrally located (which is a challenge in the evening because it is adjacent to an area families like to use for children to play late into the night) and nice. There are separate men and women’s bathrooms with beautiful black tile and stainless steel fixtures. But the lights over the showers did not work so with the black tile, it was an interesting experience. The laundry drying area is covered and things did not dry well. The bunks are rather close here–in fact pushed together. There really is not enough room in the room for all the packs. The combination of such closeness, the noise outside and differing thoughts about the lights, a fight almost broke out here. Lots of great cafes/bars in the area. Nice supermercados, fruit stands, etc. There is free internet access at the library–go up to the second floor, look for the frosted glass (you can barely see the computers through it), open the door and take a seat at an open machine. Be sure to visit the church here. The sacristan will give you a sello.
The walk out of Redondela is very nice. Views of the sea and then the Ria de Vigo as you climb. There is a stand where people have left their shells–not me! When you come into Arcade, become vigilant as the arrows are sometimes confusing. There are some steep little climbs as you go through the very old village. Then you come to a boulder climb–tiring but not as bad as loose rocks.
We stopped in Pontevedra. Walked past the public alberque–there is a hostel and pilgrim bar across the street from it. We stayed at Hostel Alicia on the Spanish Square. Alicia is lovely. She speaks both Spanish and French fluently. After hearing our tale of woe about laundry, she offered to wash ours–there are lines outside the windows. It was 15euro pp for our rooms. Loved Pontevedra! Could come back here any time! Lots of bars/cafes and restaurants. We went to a restaurant near the docks–excellent! Be sure to visit the Praza Peregrina.
We stayed with a friend of Alicia’s (Pontevedra) in Caldas de Reis just down from the Lotus Hotel on Mateo Sagaste, 48. We stopped in the public alberque–just over the bridge and immediately then behind you. Others stayed here. Mixed reviews. Lots of bars/cafes near the alberque. The one adjacent is open early.
Walked to Padron the next day. Arrows fairly consistent. A private albergue Fedra on the outskirts of town with a huge internet access sign. There is a huge market as you enter town–just before the park. We decided to go on but spoke with several people who found the public alberque full and stayed at the monastery. They said it was a highlight–the accommodations, the food and the special mass. We stayed at the Pension a Milagrossa in Picarana. We could go no further in the heat that day. This is an expensive–for what you get–place to stop. The pilgrim meal (same as was served to the many locals who ate here) was the worst. Almost raw, no seasoning, wine undrinkable (something you won’t hear from many pilgrims!). The beds were good, the rooms quiet so we got a good night’s sleep before our last day.
As you leave Teo and come close to Seve, watch for arrows to the left. It is VERY easy to miss. There is a café ahead of you at the roundabout. If you miss the arrow and go to the café, turn left as you leave the café and go up the roadway until you see a car repair shop. Just before the shop, there is a road to the left which will take you back to the Camino (ask us how we know!! And we weren’t the only ones). The walk into Santiago from here is a nice one. Far more pleasant, I think, than the Frances. Brierley shows the elevations at far greater than they are. We arrived at the School for Infants (on your right) and wondered when we were going to be going up hill–we were already there! Plenty of arrows. In fact at one point, there were a whole bunch of them–come on–can’t you spread them around a little more along the whole Camino?? As we went along the fences up to the bridge to cross the rail road tracks, we decided to put some crosses in the fence (like there are on the Frances). Hopefully those who come after us will do the same! There were none! Hopefully I will hear that this tradition has been carried on.
Once you get into Santiago area, follow the hospital signs and then be sure you are on the Rua San Pedro. Not a lot of arrows here so be watchful. You will go through the Alameda Park and cross into the old city of Santiago. Pass the bars right there and bear to the left on the first street and come to the Cathedral. YEA!
