Portugues or Frances?

[Snowglobe]

Hello all, I'm a British aspiring pilgrim hoping to make my first pilgrimage this coming year, though I'm a little in two minds over which of these routes to take. I understand the Frances to be the most popular route for first-timers and I'm sure this is not without reason, however I have also heard that it has become very crowded during the Summer months. Meanwhile I understand the Portugues Coastal path from Lisbon is much emptier and also has more agreeable weather for more of the year, though can be touristy in areas and doesn't have the fun of the Pyrenees. Does anyone who has walked one or both of these routes have any advice? Also can anyone recommend to me a good source for Camino guide books? Thanks.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I have walked the Frances twice, the Norte/Primitivo and the LePuy. The Frances still gets my vote for a "first" Camino, no matter how busy it is becoming. It has lots of infrastructure, not as strenuous as the others, a more religious feel, and better opportunities to meet people. That said, I absolutely loved the others, too, each for different reasons.
I will be walking the Portuguese camino this April.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Meanwhile I understand the Portugues Coastal path from Lisbon is much emptier

I don't think that is true any longer. Both Portugues routes have become very busy, and infrastructure has not kept up with the growth. There are many good reasons for walking them, but "empty" is not one of them!!

 

[David Tallan]

Firstly, I would like to say that while many people walk the Camino in search of solitude, in my experience most change their tune somewhat and find their fellow peregrinos one of the best parts of the experience rather than something to avoid.

That said, and with the proviso that I have only walked the Portugues from Porto, not from Lisbon, and in October rather than in the height of summer:

The Camino Frances will give you the archetype of Camino experiences. If you read books about the Camino or watch movies, chances are that the Camino walked by the protagonists was the Frances. If you walk from the French border, you will get the familiar narrative arc (challenging pyrenees, wine region, flat endless meseta leading to the mountains of Leon/Galicia and the Cruz de Ferro, and then lush Galicia) and will see the familiar landmarks. It is the way that the vast majority of pilgrims from across Europe and the world have walked for a thousand years. There are many villages that would never have existed, and wouldn't continue to exist, without the Camino. It is built into the fabric and history of the land.

The Camino Portugues is the second most popular camino, so it is not empty and there is good infrastructure, but it is certainly not as populous as the Frances. It is definitely historical (at least the Central Route) dating back to the middle ages and was the path that Portugues royalty took to Santiago. It is significantly less strenuous than the Frances with fewer mountains, but there is more road walking and much more cobblestones.

If it were me, had I less time or wanted a gentler introduction to the Camino, I might take the Portugues as a first camino. Otherwise, I would do the Frances (between these two, I can't speak to the Norte, Primitivo, etc.). If I were only to walk one Camino, it would definitely be the Frances.

As a side note, I don't know if you intend to walk on to Finisterre/Muxia. That extension seems to me to be a much more natural extension of the Frances. There, you've been walking west for a month, towards the Atlantic, and just continue on until you get there. From the Portugues, you've been walking north the whole time and suddenly hang a left to return to the Atlantic. It might seem more natural to me to follow the Portugues with a reverse Ingles.

 

[Terry Callery]

I walked both and I wrote books about both. Only 1 % of all pilgrims getting a compostela start in Lisbon, while 17 % start somewhere on the Portuguese Route. I walked both my Caminos in Feb-March when the Camino has a tenth the pilgrims as in the summer months. For 3 weeks I saw only one French couple pilgrims between Lisbon and Porto. I would say that is "empty".
I stayed at albergues where I was the only person in the entire building for the night. After Porto I met up with a series of other pilgrims who I walked and talked with usually for less than a full day. I missed the camaraderie of the French route on my Portuguese Camino, but it was flatter, the language was more lyrical, the Portuguese people were much warmer and friendlier and the food was exponentially better in Portugal. The seafood there is amazing! The best in the world. I would know since I ran a big aquaculture company here in Maine.
Get the Brierley guide book. Since I am from Maine, every day staring out above freezing and getting up to 50 F was perfect weather in Feb-March. It does rain a fair amount on the Iberian peninsula at that time of year.
I got a frogg-toggs paper thin rain suit that breaths, with a Maine yellow sou'wester fisherman's hat and waterproof Columbia sneakers and a rain cover for my backpack and was good to go in the rain. Also I spoiled myself a bit on accommodations and tried to stay at some very nice Quintas, three and four star hotels and even at the Paradore in Tui. The highlight of my trip was the Templar Castle in Tomar and stopping to spend three days going to museums and Cathedrals in Porto. I took the Central Route from Porto, if if had been summer I might have taken the Coastal route. If you take the Central route you will stay in the incredible lovely towns of Ponte de Lima and Barcelos. Bom Caminho as they say in the Portuguese.
Terence Callery

 

[Trude]

Hello all, I'm a British aspiring pilgrim hoping to make my first pilgrimage this coming year, though I'm a little in two minds over which of these routes to take. I understand the Frances to be the most popular route for first-timers and I'm sure this is not without reason, however I have also heard that it has become very crowded during the Summer months. Meanwhile I understand the Portugues Coastal path from Lisbon is much emptier and also has more agreeable weather for more of the year, though can be touristy in areas and doesn't have the fun of the Pyrenees. Does anyone who has walked one or both of these routes have any advice? Also can anyone recommend to me a good source for Camino guide books? Thanks.

There is a good reason the Francais is more popular it is beautiful and has good facilities.
The Portuguese is also beautiful but so many cobblestone paths and less atmosphere. I recommend the Francais always for first time pilgrims. Burn Camino.

 

[Snowglobe]

I'm still in two minds and will probably just spin a coin on it, I'm personally leaning towards the Portugues mainly because my mother will be in Lisbon around the time I hope to leave though I have a few concerns: would anyone know why it is that the majority of Portugues walkers tend to start from Porto instead of Lisbon? I assume it's mainly just for a shorter walk though personally I would rather have a longer route to walk. Is cheaper accommodation available on the Portugues or would I be better of walking along the Frances if I'm concerned with frugality?

Also thanks everyone for the help so far, I really appreciate it!

 

[Snowglobe]

I also particularly like the idea of ending the Portugues with a reverse Ingles, as an Englishman it seems like a fun idea! I was always planning on continuing to Finisterre anyway and it does make more geographic sense.

 

[Gail Dickson]

I also particularly like the idea of ending the Portugues with a reverse Ingles, as an Englishman it seems like a fun idea! I was always planning on continuing to Finisterre anyway and it does make more geographic sense.

We walked the Portugese from Lisbon. Up until Porto everything is cheaper than the Frances. We found the infrastructure to be fine although there are some longer days. Loved it. Then walked coastal from Porto and on to Finisterre and Muxia. Have also done Frances but Portugal was the favourite for the walk the people the food and the price.

 

[Snowglobe]

We walked the Portugese from Lisbon. Up until Porto everything is cheaper than the Frances. We found the infrastructure to be fine although there are some longer days. Loved it. Then walked coastal from Porto and on to Finisterre and Muxia. Have also done Frances but Portugal was the favourite for the walk the people the food and the price.

Do you think it's better to walk the Frances first or do you not think it matters which order to do them in? I certainly plan on doing both eventually but only have the cash for one of them for the time being.

 

[robproct]

Starting in Lisbon is wonderful as its a beautiful city to spend a few days and get the feel of the country. I walked it in October and not see a soul for the first seven days and really enjoyed the opportunity for solitude and contemplation. Some long days just walking and being in one's own space which to me is the essence of the Camino. The Allbergues were cheap were people friendly everywhere. There are wonderful towns and cities along the way such as Santarem, Barcelos, Coimbra, Porto, Pontevedra, Tui and so on. After Porto there were a few pelegrinos and more still after Tui for the short 100km walk to Santiago. I walked the central route from Porto and was glad that I did as it was the most picturesque and enjoyable part of the walk. Regarding books, I downloaded a great book, 'Camino Portugues' which has ample information about the Camino without being too detailed and has great maps. The combination of his plus the 'Wise Pilgrim' App for the phone was invaluable, particularly if I got lost. Having said that there are ample arrows guiding the way.

 

[David Tallan]

I'm still in two minds and will probably just spin a coin on it, I'm personally leaning towards the Portugues mainly because my mother will be in Lisbon around the time I hope to leave though I have a few concerns: would anyone know why it is that the majority of Portugues walkers tend to start from Porto instead of Lisbon? I assume it's mainly just for a shorter walk though personally I would rather have a longer route to walk. Is cheaper accommodation available on the Portugues or would I be better of walking along the Frances if I'm concerned with frugality?

Also thanks everyone for the help so far, I really appreciate it!

I think part of it might be for a shorter walk. From Porto it can comfortably be done in less than two weeks, which aligns well with what many working people can easily take as vacation. Part of it is that there is more infrastructure and reputedly less road and cobblestone walking (I haven't walked from Lisbon to Porto so I can't say for sure). In general, I would say that the Portugues is a little cheaper than the Frances (at least in Portugal) if frugality is a big factor.

If you think of the Camino Frances, you get a very few people who start at their front doors in Germany, Switzerland, Belgium or wherever. You get somewhat more people who start at traditional starting places like Le Puy or Vezelay. You get a lot more who start at SJPP. And you get a ton more who start at Sarria. Similarly, on the Camino Portugues you get some but vanishingly few who start south of Lisbon (there are routes up from the Algarve). You get somewhat more from Lisbon. You get a lot more from Porto. And you get a ton more from Tui.

 

[Snowglobe]

Well I think I'm decided on walking the Portugues from Lisbon, I may go further down to the Algarve if I can afford it at the time but I doubt it and Lisbon seems as good a place as any to start, thanks a lot to all of you. I do plan to walk the Frances at a later date but for now I'm looking for a quieter and cheaper trip as I'm not the wealthiest currently. I will have to start planning the journey for April/May departure now so if anyone has any advice I'd be happy to hear it, though when that comes I'm sure I ought to make a new thread, the only thing I'm unsure of is whether I have to book my place in the hostels ahead of my journey or whether I just turn up on the day, can anyone link me to a good guide to planning a pilgrimage?

 

[Gail Dickson]

Well I think I'm decided on walking the Portugues from Lisbon, I may go further down to the Algarve if I can afford it at the time but I doubt it and Lisbon seems as good a place as any to start, thanks a lot to all of you. I do plan to walk the Frances at a later date but for now I'm looking for a quieter and cheaper trip as I'm not the wealthiest currently. I will have to start planning the journey for April/May departure now so if anyone has any advice I'd be happy to hear it, though when that comes I'm sure I ought to make a new thread, the only thing I'm unsure of is whether I have to book my place in the hostels ahead of my journey or whether I just turn up on the day, can anyone link me to a good guide to planning a pilgrimage?

We walked in April May. Perfect time. No need to pre book anywhere at all except first night in Lisbon. Wise Pilgrim app will list all accommodation options. If you do the Variante you will get a compestela.

 

[Snowglobe]

Sorry to keep using this thread but I don't want to clutter up the forums with needless threads, I just wanted to ask what you think a reasonable daily amount of money would be? Do you think 50 euros per day disregarding luxuries would be a safe amount? Or should I save a little more?

 

[Gail Dickson]

Sorry to keep using this thread but I don't want to clutter up the forums with needless threads, I just wanted to ask what you think a reasonable daily amount of money would be? Do you think 50 euros per day disregarding luxuries would be a safe amount? Or should I save a little more?

Albergues average €10, wine, beer, coffee just over €1, dinner €10 to €15 tops. After Porto a little more sometimes, before Porto can be less. So yes I think you will be fine. You will find anything you need from Farmacia is cheaper than home.

 

[David Tallan]

€50/day is more than enough if you are staying in albergues. (Same goes for the Frances )

 

[Walking Lover]

Hello all, I'm a British aspiring pilgrim hoping to make my first pilgrimage this coming year, though I'm a little in two minds over which of these routes to take. I understand the Frances to be the most popular route for first-timers and I'm sure this is not without reason, however I have also heard that it has become very crowded during the Summer months. Meanwhile I understand the Portugues Coastal path from Lisbon is much emptier and also has more agreeable weather for more of the year, though can be touristy in areas and doesn't have the fun of the Pyrenees. Does anyone who has walked one or both of these routes have any advice? Also can anyone recommend to me a good source for Camino guide books? Thanks.

Have done both; Portuguese definitely less crowded but I prefer the Frances. The P is about 82% hard surfaces and not nearly as picturesque. I don't mind the crowds; rather enjoy it.

 

[Rossco]

Hello all, I'm a British aspiring pilgrim hoping to make my first pilgrimage this coming year, though I'm a little in two minds over which of these routes to take. I understand the Frances to be the most popular route for first-timers and I'm sure this is not without reason, however I have also heard that it has become very crowded during the Summer months. Meanwhile I understand the Portugues Coastal path from Lisbon is much emptier and also has more agreeable weather for more of the year, though can be touristy in areas and doesn't have the fun of the Pyrenees. Does anyone who has walked one or both of these routes have any advice? Also can anyone recommend to me a good source for Camino guide books? Thanks.

I have walked both and my choice would be the Frances. The food and accommodation on the Portugues is cheaper but it has a lot of cobbles and road walking. I found it quite depressing at times.

 

[andywild]

Definitely the Frances... I did them both this year and I'm doing Frances again next year

 

[Snowglobe]

I'm considering just biting the bullet and working a whole ton of overtime until April/May so that I could just walk both, seeing as I'm slightly over budget for just one anyway. Either way I feel as if I have all the info that I made this thread for and for that I thank you all!

 

[Lifeofdelight]

I'm still in two minds and will probably just spin a coin on it, I'm personally leaning towards the Portugues mainly because my mother will be in Lisbon around the time I hope to leave though I have a few concerns: would anyone know why it is that the majority of Portugues walkers tend to start from Porto instead of Lisbon? I assume it's mainly just for a shorter walk though personally I would rather have a longer route to walk. Is cheaper accommodation available on the Portugues or would I be better of walking along the Frances if I'm concerned with frugality?

Also thanks everyone for the help so far, I really appreciate it!

I am planning on walking out from Lisbon around 24th April although am still having concerns about safety if there are not fellow pilgrims about until from Porto. If you do choose walking the Portuguese way when are you planning to start?

 

[Snowglobe]

I am planning on walking out from Lisbon around 24th April although am still having concerns about safety if there are not fellow pilgrims about until from Porto. If you do choose walking the Portuguese way when are you planning to start?

I was planning on departing around April/May time actually so 24th April certainly could be a viable date for me!

 

[Lifeofdelight]

Hi. I'm flying into Lisbon on 21/4 after a tour of Morocco. Planning on sightseeing for two days then start on 24/4. I thought I'd assess how I was feeling about the walk from Lisbon, and if necessary, high tail it up to Porto if safety in numbers was my need. I might even scoot up to do the camino France's again from Ronsavalles this time rather than st jean pied de port as I really enjoyed the comradship. My tickets are booked so I'll be there, and I'd be very grateful to do a start with someone just to know someone is around. I have 6 weeks before returning to Australia.

 

[EmoJohnson]

I was glad my first Camino was Porto (coastal) to Santiago—and then the following year Camino Frances. I feel intrepid and relish doing things “backwards”. Plus, I didn’t need the CF as some Camino precendent; I reacted against its popularity. I wanted peace and the navigational tool of the ocean on my left shoulder. Enjoy your choice!

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

You're welcome to check my web site - diaries for 5 Caminos. Next month [February] I fly to Lisbon, train to Porto, then start walking the Portuguese Coastal. I shall be 80 years old during the camino! You're going to have a wonderful experience, Snowglobe!
Ultreia y susteia! [or however they are spelt]!

 

[LynneR]

I was glad my first Camino was Porto (coastal) to Santiago—and then the following year Camino Frances. I feel intrepid and relish doing things “backwards”. Plus, I didn’t need the CF as some Camino precendent; I reacted against its popularity. I wanted peace and the navigational tool of the ocean on my left shoulder. Enjoy your choice!

So I'm reading this thread and I have a question. I have walked twice on the Frances and am thinking of doing Porto to Santiago to Finisterre to Muxia. But I keep reading that people prefer Frances. I don't want to be disappointed, but I'm looking for new scenery, new experience. Since you've done both, can you give me your opinion, should I just head back to Frances because I found it excellent, or is CP worth a walk?
Thanks!

 

[David Tallan]

So I'm reading this thread and I have a question. I have walked twice on the Frances and am thinking of doing Porto to Santiago to Finisterre to Muxia. But I keep reading that people prefer Frances. I don't want to be disappointed, but I'm looking for new scenery, new experience. Since you've done both, can you give me your opinion, should I just head back to Frances because I found it excellent, or is CP worth a walk?
Thanks!

I have done both (the Camino Portugues from Porto, for the first bit along the river and coast and then over to the Central route from Vila do Conde; the Frances twice from Roncesvalles, once on to Finisterre). I found the CP worth walking.

 

[caminoagogo]

I also particularly like the idea of ending the Portugues with a reverse Ingles, as an Englishman it seems like a fun idea! I was always planning on continuing to Finisterre anyway and it does make more geographic sense.

Hey @Snowglobe, also consider the Variante Espiritual along the Portugués. I'm really looking forward to this stretch when I tackle it next year. I've got some info here about it: https://camino-a-go-go.blogspot.com/2019/01/a-plan-is-hatched.html

Buen Camino

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Do you prefer a busy camino with plenty of other pilgrims to become your waking companions? If so, opt for the Frances. Do you prefer peace and tranquility? Then the Portuguese is for you.
Whichever you choose .... enjoy!