Possible stages for my camino

[irishgurrrl]

Hey folks,

I'm planning to walk the Camino Primitivo this yr from Oviedo to Melide and then catch a bus to Santiago. (Have done the entire CF before so want to spend as much time as possible on the sections of the CP before Melide).

Excluding travel days I've about 14 days for actual walking including one rest day en route to Santiago.

Here's my first draft of possible stages.
DAY 1 (12.2km): Oviedo - El Escamplero
DAY 2 (16km): El Esclampero - San Juan de Villapanada
DAY 3 (19.5km): SJdeV - Salas
DAY 4 (18.4km): Salas - Tineo
DAY 5 (14 or 16km): Tineo - Campiello OR Tineo - Borres
DAY 6 (25 or 28km): Campiello/Borres - Berducedo (via Hospitales Route)
DAY 7 (17 or 23km): Berducedo - Grandas de Salime OR O Castro
DAY 8 (20 or 25.5km): GdeS / OC - A Fonsegrada or O Padron (+2km)
DAY 9 (22 or 24km): AF / OP - A Cadavo Baleira
DAY 10 (9km short/rest day): ACB - Castroverde
DAY 11 (22.5km): Castroverde - Lugo
DAY 12: REST DAY /SIGHTSEEING
DAY 13 (25 or 26km): Lugo - A Pena de Galina OR Ferreira
DAY 14 (21 or 22km): APdeG / Ferreira - MELIDE (and bus to Santiago de Compostela)
DAY 15: Enjoy Santiago

In an ideal world I prefer to keep the distances reasonable and generally no more than 10-12 miles (16-19km) in the hillier sections but up to about 15miles (25.5km) on the flatter sections (although ideally around 13miles).

Anyways.... these are the possible stages I've come up with so far. For those of you who have already completed the Primitivo I would love to hear your thoughts....

Also if you can recommend places to stay let me know. I'm open to staying in albergues, pensions and if needs be hotels. P.S. As I'm a very light sleeper I'm more than happy to pay for the luxury of my own room wherever possible!

Thanks in advance,

Eilish

 

[Theatregal]

Hello Eilish,
These are all very close to my stages. If there is one thing that I would recommend, it would be to stop in Castro. I stayed in Grandas de Salime after the two quite strenuous (very hot days mid summer) from Campiello over the Hospitales to Berducedo and then Berducedo to Grandas de Salime. It was so lovely to have a short stage to Castro and have most of the day to rest and explore the wonderful museum and archaeological site of the Castro Chao Samartin. I stayed in a the Hotel Rural - Chao Samartin, as the albergue was booked for a group. Castro is a beautiful spot.
Buen Camino!

 

[irishgurrrl]

Hello Eilish,
These are all very close to my stages. If there is one thing that I would recommend, it would be to stop in Castro. I stayed in Grandas de Salime after the two quite strenuous (very hot days mid summer) from Campiello over the Hospitales to Berducedo and then Berducedo to Grandas de Salime. It was so lovely to have a short stage to Castro and have most of the day to rest and explore the wonderful museum and archaeological site of the Castro Chao Samartin. I stayed in a the Hotel Rural - Chao Samartin, as the albergue was booked for a group. Castro is a beautiful spot.
Buen Camino!

Ah great, thanks for your suggestions. I assume you mean the Castro a few kms after Grandas? I could manage to squeeze in a short stage there if I didn't bother with the extra day at Lugo maybe? Will look into it some more Thanks again!

 

[Theatregal]

Though I would say Lugo is really worth a rest day ~ beautiful city ~ especially the walk around the wall!!

 

[Sheffield James]

I passed through Grandas and enjoyed a lovely, relaxed afternoon of sunshine and beautiful vistas at the private albergue in Castro. I had a tinge of regret that I had missed out on the rich roman history of Grandas, so I guess you need to decide what you'd most want to do with your downtime.

That said, I have absolutely no recollection of the existence of 'Castro Chao Samaritan' cited by Theatregal, so maybe you can enjoy the best of both worlds by staying at Castro.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi Eilish,
Your stages look good and they fit well with your preferred distances. We walked the Primitivo last September/October and were very pleasantly surprised by the range of accommodations. We didn't book anything in advance, apart from a hotel in Lugo. We really enjoyed just going with the flow and we had no difficulty finding private rooms.

We stayed in some of the places on your list - so here are a few comments/suggestions (from what I can remember):

Salas: Hotel Castillo is very nice but overpriced. We spent 2 nights there as I was sick - the extra comfort was very welcome, but it didn't have a 'Camino feel' to it. There's a private/donativo albergue a few doors past the hotel and it looks really good. I called in to use their laundry facilities and the hospitalero was very nice.

Tineo: the Hotel Palacio de Meras has a very fancy albergue in its basement. It also offers pilgrim discounts on hotel rooms and on the laundry service. The food is great too.

Campiello - We really liked the private albergue Casa Ricardo. It has private en-suite rooms for about €30, as well as small dorms. Good kitchen and other facilities. Ricardo and his staff are very kind and helpful.

Berducedo - we stayed in Casa Marques. The new private albergue Camino Primitivo would have been a better option. We had dinner there.

A Fonsegrada - The albergue/pension Cantabrico is very modern and spotlessly clean. All facilities including quiet and spacious private rooms. Great kitchen etc. There's a really good restaurant nearby, also called Cantabrico.

You're in for a treat - the Primitivo is a wonderful Camino. Hopefully you'll get decent weather and the opportunity to walk the Hospitales route. It was definitely one of our highlights and we didn't find it as difficult as we expected.

Buen Camino!

 

[irishgurrrl]

Hi Eilish,
Your stages look good and they fit well with your preferred distances. We walked the Primitivo last September/October and were very pleasantly surprised by the range of accommodations. We didn't book anything in advance, apart from a hotel in Lugo. We really enjoyed just going with the flow and we had no difficulty finding private rooms.

We stayed in some of the places on your list - so here are a few comments/suggestions (from what I can remember):

Salas: Hotel Castillo is very nice but overpriced. We spent 2 nights there as I was sick - the extra comfort was very welcome, but it didn't have a 'Camino feel' to it. There's a private/donativo albergue a few doors past the hotel and it looks really good. I called in to use their laundry facilities and the hospitalero was very nice.

Tineo: the Hotel Palacio de Meras has a very fancy albergue in its basement. It also offers pilgrim discounts on hotel rooms and on the laundry service. The food is great too.

Campiello - We really liked the private albergue Casa Ricardo. It has private en-suite rooms for about €30, as well as small dorms. Good kitchen and other facilities. Ricardo and his staff are very kind and helpful.

Berducedo - we stayed in Casa Marques. The new private albergue Camino Primitivo would have been a better option. We had dinner there.

A Fonsegrada - The albergue/pension Cantabrico is very modern and spotlessly clean. All facilities including quiet and spacious private rooms. Great kitchen etc. There's a really good restaurant nearby, also called Cantabrico.

You're in for a treat - the Primitivo is a wonderful Camino. Hopefully you'll get decent weather and the opportunity to walk the Hospitales route. It was definitely one of our highlights and we didn't find it as difficult as we expected.

Buen Camino!

Hi Nuala,

Thanks a million for all your suggestions. It's good to know I wont have to have book everything too far in advance. I have to say I'm really looking forward to this Camino especially after all the wonderful reviews!

Buen Camino!

 

[irishgurrrl]

I passed through Grandas and enjoyed a lovely, relaxed afternoon of sunshine and beautiful vistas at the private albergue in Castro. I had a tinge of regret that I had missed out on the rich roman history of Grandas, so I guess you need to decide what you'd most want to do with your downtime.

That said, I have absolutely no recollection of the existence of 'Castro Chao Samaritan' cited by Theatregal, so maybe you can enjoy the best of both worlds by staying at Castro.

It's good to know I have so many options

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi irishgurrrl,

Your stages look fine to me. If you want to break up that stage to Berducedo, the only way to do it is with a cab, I think. I have a recollection that @Tia Valeria did that, so you might be able to find her post if that is something you'd like to consider. There is an obvious place for a cab to meet you, where the Hospitales route joins up with the route from Pola de Allande at the Puerto de Palo.

I have walked the Primitivo several times now and have always wanted to stay near the Castro (hill fort) site and museum, as Theatergal and many others have. I was all set to do it this past year, but got caught up in a big group that I just didn't want to leave. Maybe next time.... It does look really interesting, though. http://castrochaosamartin.esy.es/?lang=en. (English website this time ).

Other bits that come to mind -- excellent pulpo at two different places in A Fonsagrada. And I second Nuala's recommendation of Ricardo's place, though I have stayed twice (before Ricardo opened) at Herminia's albergue. It's a littler further on, in an unappealing metal shed like structure, but is spotless and comfortable, with good spacing between the bunks and huge industrial washer/dryers. Herminia used to have a lock on all the business in Campiello (owning a store, a pensión, an albergue, a bar/restaurante, and even the grass bowling court. Ricardo is also from a long-time Campiello family and has staked out some competition. But I think any of the options is a good one. Herminia's breakfast -- bread fried in oil with lots of jars of what looked like homemade jams -- may sound awful but was great fuel for the climb.

I've stayed in Castroverde a couple of times and there is now an albergue there. But I've stayed in the pensión that's in the guidebooks. It's perfectly fine and very reasonable, nothing fancy. I wish I could remember the name of the bar in the plaza, but walking down from the pensión past the Día supermarket you get to a little square. The mesón on the left side just can't stop serving you tapas. I wound up not needing dinner after spending some time there with friends staying in the albergue.

After A Fonsagrada/Padrón, nearly everyone stops at the bar after about 8 (?) km. It has picnic tables outside and does a booming breakfast business. BIG sandwiches, pretty reasonable prices. A couple of things about that place -- last year when I was there, I saw the same guy I had seen in years past, but there was also a younger woman with some little kids. Turns out she is the daughter of the owner, and business has been so good that she packed up and moved back home to help out with the business. Very nice people... BUT they may tell you horror stories about how you should stay on the road after their place. Unless you are in a torrential downpour, the path is totally fine for walking and takes you through some very lovely (though essentially abandoned) little hamlets. In one of them there was a young guy with the plan of turning his grandma's home into an albergue, let us know if he is still there!

You are in for a treat! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[irishgurrrl]

Hi irishgurrrl,

Your stages look fine to me. If you want to break up that stage to Berducedo, the only way to do it is with a cab, I think. I have a recollection that @Tia Valeria did that, so you might be able to find her post if that is something you'd like to consider. There is an obvious place for a cab to meet you, where the Hospitales route joins up with the route from Pola de Allande at the Puerto de Palo.

I have walked the Primitivo several times now and have always wanted to stay near the Castro (hill fort) site and museum, as Theatergal and many others have. I was all set to do it this past year, but got caught up in a big group that I just didn't want to leave. Maybe next time.... It does look really interesting, though. http://castrochaosamartin.esy.es/?lang=en. (English website this time ).

Other bits that come to mind -- excellent pulpo at two different places in A Fonsagrada. And I second Nuala's recommendation of Ricardo's place, though I have stayed twice (before Ricardo opened) at Herminia's albergue. It's a littler further on, in an unappealing metal shed like structure, but is spotless and comfortable, with good spacing between the bunks and huge industrial washer/dryers. Herminia used to have a lock on all the business in Campiello (owning a store, a pensión, an albergue, a bar/restaurante, and even the grass bowling court. Ricardo is also from a long-time Campiello family and has staked out some competition. But I think any of the options is a good one. Herminia's breakfast -- bread fried in oil with lots of jars of what looked like homemade jams -- may sound awful but was great fuel for the climb.

I've stayed in Castroverde a couple of times and there is now an albergue there. But I've stayed in the pensión that's in the guidebooks. It's perfectly fine and very reasonable, nothing fancy. I wish I could remember the name of the bar in the plaza, but walking down from the pensión past the Día supermarket you get to a little square. The mesón on the left side just can't stop serving you tapas. I wound up not needing dinner after spending some time there with friends staying in the albergue.

After A Fonsagrada/Padrón, nearly everyone stops at the bar after about 8 (?) km. It has picnic tables outside and does a booming breakfast business. BIG sandwiches, pretty reasonable prices. A couple of things about that place -- last year when I was there, I saw the same guy I had seen in years past, but there was also a younger woman with some little kids. Turns out she is the daughter of the owner, and business has been so good that she packed up and moved back home to help out with the business. Very nice people... BUT they may tell you horror stories about how you should stay on the road after their place. Unless you are in a torrential downpour, the path is totally fine for walking and takes you through some very lovely (though essentially abandoned) little hamlets. In one of them there was a young guy with the plan of turning his grandma's home into an albergue, let us know if he is still there!

You are in for a treat! Buen camino, Laurie

Hi Laurie,

Thanks for the brilliant info and tips as always Is it weird that although I love calamari I didn't like pulpo when I tried it on my first Camino... I think it was in Melide if I remember correctly...

Buen Camino!

Eilish

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Laurie,

Thanks for the brilliant info and tips as always Is it weird that although I love calamari I didn't like pulpo when I tried it on my first Camino... I think it was in Melide if I remember correctly...

Buen Camino!

Eilish

Well, I can't eat more than a few bites of it, something about the texture. But since I only eat it once a year, I actually look forward to those few bites!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hey folks,

I'm planning to walk the Camino Primitivo this yr from Oviedo to Melide and then catch a bus to Santiago. (Have done the entire CF before so want to spend as much time as possible on the sections of the CP before Melide).

Excluding travel days I've about 14 days for actual walking including one rest day en route to Santiago.

Here's my first draft of possible stages.
DAY 1 (12.2km): Oviedo - El Escamplero
DAY 2 (16km): El Esclampero - San Juan de Villapanada
DAY 3 (19.5km): SJdeV - Salas
DAY 4 (18.4km): Salas - Tineo
DAY 5 (14 or 16km): Tineo - Campiello OR Tineo - Borres
DAY 6 (25 or 28km): Campiello/Borres - Berducedo (via Hospitales Route)
DAY 7 (17 or 23km): Berducedo - Grandas de Salime OR O Castro
DAY 8 (20 or 25.5km): GdeS / OC - A Fonsegrada or O Padron (+2km)
DAY 9 (22 or 24km): AF / OP - A Cadavo Baleira
DAY 10 (9km short/rest day): ACB - Castroverde
DAY 11 (22.5km): Castroverde - Lugo
DAY 12: REST DAY /SIGHTSEEING
DAY 13 (25 or 26km): Lugo - A Pena de Galina OR Ferreira
DAY 14 (21 or 22km): APdeG / Ferreira - MELIDE (and bus to Santiago de Compostela)
DAY 15: Enjoy Santiago

In an ideal world I prefer to keep the distances reasonable and generally no more than 10-12 miles (16-19km) in the hillier sections but up to about 15miles (25.5km) on the flatter sections (although ideally around 13miles).

Anyways.... these are the possible stages I've come up with so far. For those of you who have already completed the Primitivo I would love to hear your thoughts....

Also if you can recommend places to stay let me know. I'm open to staying in albergues, pensions and if needs be hotels. P.S. As I'm a very light sleeper I'm more than happy to pay for the luxury of my own room wherever possible!

Thanks in advance,

Eilish

Those were my exact etapas until after Lugo. I stayed in San Roman de Retorta and then As Seixas. Should have eneded it there and avoided the bit on the Frances, even Melide was a shock. You are smart to stop there. I also opted for Borres instread of Campiello because you get to Campiello too early and kt makes the Hospitales day even longer. The albergue is basic but does the job. The bar offers nice combinado dishes.

I posted in a thread here while walking. It was called Primitivo: Breathtaking.

Only place to really book is Berducedo as it's a bottleneck.

Visit the Naranco sites on your way out of Oviedo, and in Melide follow the arrows out of town and visit the small church to the right if you have not seen it yet. In Castro (lovely albergue, great home cooked meal and huge backyard) visit the Roman ruins at the end of the day.

Salas offers the biggest menu del dia ever: 7 courses! There is no walking after that. That was at the Meson. Miguel's albergue has private rooms.

Tineo has a super albergue in the Palacio de Meres hotel, but Mater Christi has the traditional Camino feel. Next tome I would walk past A Fonsagrada after a menu del dia and stay at the traditional volunteer run albergue in Padron. One of the hospies is part of the local security people who keep an eye on pilgrims.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Not

Ah great, thanks for your suggestions. I assume you mean the Castro a few kms after Grandas? I could manage to squeeze in a short stage there if I didn't bother with the extra day at Lugo maybe? Will look into it some more Thanks again!

Not much to see and do in Lugo for a full day. I would prefer lounging in the backyard in Castro and visit the ruins.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi irishgurrrl,

Your stages look fine to me. If you want to break up that stage to Berducedo, the only way to do it is with a cab, I think. I have a recollection that @Tia Valeria did that, so you might be able to find her post if that is something you'd like to consider. There is an obvious place for a cab to meet you, where the Hospitales route joins up with the route from Pola de Allande at the Puerto de Palo.
You are in for a treat! Buen camino, Laurie

I took a taxi at the first Puerto, puerto de la Marta or something like that. There were numbers on a post up there, but you could also arrange it in the bar in Borres.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Those were my exact etapas until after Lugo. I stayed in San Roman de Retorta and then As Seixas. Should have eneded it there and avoided the bit on the Frances, even Melide was a shock. You are smart to stop there. I also opted for Borres instread of Campiello because you get to Campiello too early and kt makes the Hospitales day even longer. The albergue is basic but does the job. The bar offers nice combinado dishes.

I posted in a thread here while walking. It was called Primitivo: Breathtaking.

Only place to really book is Berducedo as it's a bottleneck.

Visit the Naranco sites on your way out of Oviedo, and in Melide follow the arrows out of town and visit the small church to the right if you have not seen it yet. In Castro (lovely albergue, great home cooked meal and huge backyard) visit the Roman ruins at the end of the day.

Salas offers the biggest menu del dia ever: 7 courses! There is no walking after that. That was at the Meson. Miguel's albergue has private rooms.

Tineo has a super albergue in the Palacio de Meres hotel, but Mater Christi has the traditional Camino feel. Next tome I would walk past A Fonsagrada after a menu del dia and stay at the traditional volunteer run albergue in Padron. One of the hospies is part of the local security people who keep an eye on pilgrims.

Wow, seriously thank you for all that. I think I may have read some of your posts from your Camino recently but must have a look for them again. Yeah I think I'd find the Camino from Melide tough going as I've become so used to quieter trails now. I want to savour the best parts of this Camino without feeling under pressure. Hopefully I'll be fit enough by the time I start to really enjoy it.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Not

Not much to see and do in Lugo for a full day. I would prefer lounging in the backyard in Castro and visit the ruins.

Sounds like a plan!

 

[irishgurrrl]

I took a taxi at the first Puerto, puerto de la Marta or something like that. There were numbers on a post up there, but you could also arrange it in the bar in Borres.

That's not a bad idea! Will the taxi driver know where to join the Camino or did you have to direct him?

 

[alaskadiver]

Those were my exact etapas until after Lugo. I stayed in San Roman de Retorta and then As Seixas. Should have eneded it there and avoided the bit on the Frances, even Melide was a shock. You are smart to stop there. I also opted for Borres instread of Campiello because you get to Campiello too early and kt makes the Hospitales day even longer. The albergue is basic but does the job. The bar offers nice combinado dishes.

I read in one of the guides that the Borres albergue only has cold showers. Do you know, or have you read if that is still the case? I'm inclined to stay in Campiello just because they have more to offer but I haven't ruled out Borres.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I read in one of the guides that the Borres albergue only has cold showers. Do you know, or have you read if that is still the case? I'm inclined to stay in Campiello just because they have more to offer but I haven't ruled out Borres.

There is a lot of talk about Esclampero and Borres. Both are the traditional municipal albergues: basic. But then so is Mater Christi in Tineo and the muni in O Cadavo and the one in Berducedo. I suppose that is you come in late in the day after 18 others have had a shower then the water may be cold, but I didn't have a cold shower.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

That's not a bad idea! Will the taxi driver know where to join the Camino or did you have to direct him?

Yes, there is only one place where the Hospitales route touches the road, Pola de la Marta. Give the driver a time to pick you up. I would say leave yourself 4-5 hours to get there. Bring a lunch (the bar will make you a tortilla or a sandwich the night before) and when you get to the road and if it's too early, back up a bit and sit on the edge of the world enjoying the views whole eating your sandwich.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Yes, there is only one place where the Hospitales route touches the road, Pola de la Marta. Give the driver a time to pick you up. I would say leave yourself 4-5 hours to get there. Bring a lunch (the bar will make you a tortilla or a sandwich the night before) and when you get to the road and if it's too early, back up a bit and sit on the edge of the world enjoying the views whole eating your sandwich.

Great. I'm aiming to walk the full stage (at least in theory haha) but it's great to know I can shorten it if I need to. This whole Camino sounds so fantastic. So excited!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Great. I'm aiming to walk the full stage (at least in theory haha) but it's great to know I can shorten it if I need to. This whole Camino sounds so fantastic. So excited!

My cell did not have coverage up there, bit I traded my extra bottle of water with some ladies who had run out in exchange for making the call to the taxi with their phone with a different carrier.

 

[irishgurrrl]

My cell did not have coverage up there, bit I traded my extra bottle of water with some ladies who had run out in exchange for making the call to the taxi with their phone with a different carrier.

A fair exchange haha

 

[camino07]

I read in one of the guides that the Borres albergue only has cold showers. Do you know, or have you read if that is still the case? I'm inclined to stay in Campiello just because they have more to offer but I haven't ruled out Borres.

Last October we stayed in Campiello and heard from friends who walked on to Borres that there was no water in the albergue (don't know why) they had to use the fuente nearby and the dorm was full of flies.
Probably a one off but so glad we stayed in Campiello. Slept at Ricardos and ate at Herminas.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Last October we stayed in Campiello and heard from friends who walked on to Borres that there was no water in the albergue (don't know why) they had to use the fuente nearby and the dorm was full of flies.
Probably a one off but so glad we stayed in Campiello. Slept at Ricardos and ate at Herminas.

Hi Camino07,
Ah that doesn't sound good. Hopefully it was a once off as you say. Some other forum members have had more positive experiences there so I'm hoping that's the case

 

[irishgurrrl]

Slept at Ricardos and ate at Herminas.

Ricardos is getting lots of great reviews. Sounds like my preferred option if I decide to stay in Campiello

 

[irishgurrrl]

Well, I can't eat more than a few bites of it, something about the texture. But since I only eat it once a year, I actually look forward to those few bites!

Yeah I think you may be right.. good in small doses!

 

[Tia Valeria]

A few comments after reading previous posts.
@peregrina2000 was right that we took a cab, but it was for the last few kms into A Fonsagrada. We walked Campiello to Pola de Allande and the from there to Berducedo - the alternative to the Hospitales route.

We stayed at both Grandas and Castro. As Castro is a 'juventil' it is advisable to book ahead or at least phone to check that they are not occupied with a youth group. They have priority.
Museum at Grandas and the castro of Chao Samartin at Castro are worth seeing. If you want to see either then check opening times online as they are not open every day.

Lugo - we stayed 3 nights (Hotel Metropol on Miguel Cervantes was pilgrim friendly) as there is so much to see and then went back after the Camino to see what we had missed. Various museums, the walls, cathedral etc.

After Lugo we stayed at San Roman (El Candido) and then At Casa de Ponte (pre Ferreira albergue opening).

From there we walked to Palas de Rei rather than Melide, but that was because of the distance. We walked the rest but you could go there and get a bus as far as I know.

Stages you have outlined look good.
Buen Camino

 

[irishgurrrl]

A few comments after reading previous posts.
@peregrina2000 was right that we took a cab, but it was for the last few kms into A Fonsagrada. We walked Campiello to Pola de Allande and the from there to Berducedo - the alternative to the Hospitales route.

We stayed at both Grandas and Castro. As Castro is a 'juventil' it is advisable to book ahead or at least phone to check that they are not occupied with a youth group. They have priority.
Museum at Grandas and the castro of Chao Samartin at Castro are worth seeing. If you want to see either then check opening times online as they are not open every day.

Lugo - we stayed 3 nights (Hotel Metropol on Miguel Cervantes was pilgrim friendly) as there is so much to see and then went back after the Camino to see what we had missed. Various museums, the walls, cathedral etc.

After Lugo we stayed at San Roman (El Candido) and then At Casa de Ponte (pre Ferreira albergue opening).

From there we walked to Palas de Rei rather than Melide, but that was because of the distance. We walked the rest but you could go there and get a bus as far as I know.

Stages you have outlined look good.
Buen Camino

Thanks Tia Valeria for your comments and tips. Much appreciated!

 

[oursonpolaire]

Not

Not much to see and do in Lugo for a full day. I would prefer lounging in the backyard in Castro and visit the ruins.

Depending on your timeline, you may well be right. I agree with everyone who speaks of Castro and the incredible Roman ruins there. I lucked out by arriving early one day as they were opening and the staff seemed intrigued with a pilgrim arriving and gave me in a tour-- mercifully in French as my Castilian is awful (and they have a sello!). However, Lugo is one of those provincial centres in Spain with a very decent provincial museum as well as the Domus de Mitreo, which is great for those of us who sweated through Latin classes many years ago-- it gives a good picture of Roman daily life. I had somehow thought that Galicia was an isolated part of the planet, but it had strong links to the Roman and Celtic worlds, as well as to the better-known contemporary ones to Cuba and Argentina (and Montréal!!).

I've done the Primitivo a couple of times and think that Irishgurrl is sensible in keeping relatively short stages. There is a lot of ascent and decent on this great trail- it is rewarding but it is tough. I would note that Tineo has a few comfortable pensions in addition to the places mentioned. In Fonsagrada, down from the Cantabrico, there is a small bar which produces the best boccadillos de jamon which can be had in Asturias.

As well, Irishgurrl should note that sidra natural is rather more potent than one might think. A taste for this beverage, once acquired (and not everyone acquires it), does not always acknowledge its strength. And we won't even mention the orujo blanco casero which, at one farmhouse, was poured out from a 1.5 litre bottle which had originally contained coca-cola.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

May I add, in Lugo, you are likely to find volunteers in the cathedral who can give you a tour and explain the things you see. It is well worth the 15 minutes, and a donation. You will also get the biggest sello ever!

 

[movinmaggie]

Irishgirrl, thanks for this thread and others who added to it. I am walking in Scotland this year and had the Portugues in mind to do the Hospitalera and walk afterwards in 2018. After a lot of reading and gleaning of comments and information over time, my leaning now is more toward the Primitivo, so I have created an info sheet for any related information that comes in over and above what is already in our resources. Much appreciated.

 

[backpack45]

Not

Not much to see and do in Lugo for a full day. I would prefer lounging in the backyard in Castro and visit the ruins.

There is a lot to see in Lugo if you happen to be there during a festival or religious celebration. I don't know when you are going, but when we were there in the fall of 2015, we totally loved their biggest festival--San Froilan (in early October). You might check out their tourism website for more events. http://www.turismo.gal/ficha-recurso?langId=en_US&cod_rec=34581

 

[Anemone del Camino]

There is a lot to see in Lugo if you happen to be there during a festival or religious celebration.

That would be true of any village, wouldn't it? How many days of festivity are there a year?

 

[peregrina2000]

In another post I mentioned the Arde Lucas, which is Lugo's biggest bash of the year. I have seen a lot of fiestas in Spain, but this was pretty over the top. I'm not sure I would want to go back, nighttime was nonstop loud noise, but during the day there were interesting theatrical presentations, demonstrations, parades, etc. If you don't like crowds though, you won't like this, since a high percentage of those in the crowd have had a lot to drink. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/revelry-in-lugo-festival-arde-lucus-2017.45302/

I'm sure there are some saints' days, and Holy Week, and the usual assortment of opportunities for pagentry that Spaniards are so good at.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I'm sure there are some saints' days, and Holy Week, and the usual assortment of opportunities for pagentry that Spaniards are so good at.

Of course there are, but is ot because there are a few destive days in a city that you will automatically make it a reat day if you show up on a non festive day? The logic of suggesting a rest day in Lugo because it occasionally has great fiestas escapes me.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Those were my exact etapas until after Lugo. I stayed in San Roman de Retorta and then As Seixas. Should have eneded it there and avoided the bit on the Frances, even Melide was a shock. You are smart to stop there. I also opted for Borres instread of Campiello because you get to Campiello too early and kt makes the Hospitales day even longer. The albergue is basic but does the job. The bar offers nice combinado dishes.

I posted in a thread here while walking. It was called Primitivo: Breathtaking.

Only place to really book is Berducedo as it's a bottleneck.

Visit the Naranco sites on your way out of Oviedo, and in Melide follow the arrows out of town and visit the small church to the right if you have not seen it yet. In Castro (lovely albergue, great home cooked meal and huge backyard) visit the Roman ruins at the end of the day.

Salas offers the biggest menu del dia ever: 7 courses! There is no walking after that. That was at the Meson. Miguel's albergue has private rooms.

Tineo has a super albergue in the Palacio de Meres hotel, but Mater Christi has the traditional Camino feel. Next tome I would walk past A Fonsagrada after a menu del dia and stay at the traditional volunteer run albergue in Padron. One of the hospies is part of the local security people who keep an eye on pilgrims.

Hi Anemone,

Had a thought there I wouldn't mind getting your opinion on... If for whatever reason I wanted to do shorter stages or take my time (even more than planned haha !!) on the Camino between Oviedo and Lugo I just thinking there that I could just finish my Camino at Lugo and get a bus from there to Santiago... This would give me even more time on the stretch between Oviedo and Lugo...

Anyway, I was just wondering whether you found the stretch between Lugo and Melide worth doing??? i.e. Do you think I would regret doing a shorter Camino? (Bearing in mind I definitely don't intend on walking any further than Melide this time around and only chose Melide as my finish point as it has good bus connections to Santiago). It'd be nice to have a back up plan if for whatever reason I was finding the going particularly tough

Eilish

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi Anemone,

Had a thought there I wouldn't mind getting your opinion on... If for whatever reason I wanted to do shorter stages or take my time (even more than planned haha !!) on the Camino between Oviedo and Lugo

Anyway, I was just wondering whether you found the stretch between Lugo and Melide worth doing??? i.e. Do you think I would regret doing a shorter Camino?
Eilish

The last 10km into Lugo are blah, but after Lugo things pick up again. Both albergues in San Roman have their charm: the muni looks like the "tiny houses" that are now so popular, a purposely made chalet, super tiny. 100 meters from it is a huge house with a huge living room and free access to the fridge. Owner also has a restaurant in town and takes your order when you arrive and then brings back the food from the restaurant in the evening. Makes his own wine as well.

And the albergue is As Seixas is a beautifully restored farmhouse/barn with a large backyard, sheep across the street.

I would walk to Melide, knowing that if you end in Lugo you have not missed a spectacular portion of the route bit it is a nice stretch.

 

[irishgurrrl]

The last 10km into Lugo are blah, but after Lugo things pick up again. Both albergues in San Roman have their charm: the muni looks like the "tiny houses" that are now so popular, a purposely made chalet, super tiny. 100 meters from it is a huge house with a huge living room and free access to the fridge. Owner also has a restaurant in town and takes your order when you arrive and then brings back the food from the restaurant in the evening. Makes his own wine as well.

And the albergue is As Seixas is a beautifully restored farmhouse/barn with a large backyard, sheep across the street.

I would walk to Melide, knowing that if you end in Lugo you have not missed a spectacular portion of the route bit it is a nice stretch.

Thanks for that.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Hey folks,

Not long back from my hike of the Kerry Way so I've now turned my attention to my upcoming Camino Primitivo trip in May.

Flights were surprisingly tricky on my travel dates so effectively I have one less day to hike than expected.

I've also decided to "only" walk as far as Lugo now and get a bus from there to Santiago (rather than walk to Melide and bus it from there). It means I can shorten my stages and really take my time on the trail. Been feeling a little burned out from work so it'll be good not to feel like I'm pushing my body too hard. The priority is more to get out on the Camino and enjoy spending time hiking in nature rather than doing big distances

Here's my revised itinerary:

Day 1: Oviedo - El Esclampero (12/16km)
Day 2: El Esclampero - Grado (13.5km)
Day 3: Grado - Cornellano (11.5km)
Day 4: Cornellano - Salas (12km)
Day 5: Salas - Tineo (18.5km)
Day 6: Tineo - Campiello (14km)
Day 7: Campiello - Pola de Allande (17.5km)
Day 8: Pola de Allande - Berducedo (18km)
Day 9: Berducedo - Grandas de Salime (20km)
Day 10: Grandas de Salime - O Castro (5km)(short/ rest day)
Day 11: O Castro - (either) A Fonsegrado OR O Padron (either 20 or 22km)
Day 12: AF or AP - A Cadavo Baleira (23 or 25km)
Day 13: ACB - Castroverde (9km) (short/rest day")
Day 14: Castroverde - Lugo (22.5km)(Stay overnight in Lugo and catch bus to Santiago the next day).

So as you can see, rather than take a rest day I've included two nero days (low mile days) which is nearly as good as taking the day off.

I've only booked accommodation in Oviedo and Esclampero so far. As some of my stages have changed, if you've any additional recommendations for places to stay at any of my other intended stops let me know by posting below. As a very light sleeper I do have a preference for my own room but I don't mind sharing a dorm (reasonably occasionally) especially if the place is particularly special

Thanks in advance,

Eilish

 

[Tia Valeria]

It will be worth checking that Castro is available the night you want to stay and not occupied by a youth group (their priority). The stages look good.
Buen Camino

 

[irishgurrrl]

It will be worth checking that Castro is available the night you want to stay and not occupied by a youth group (their priority). The stages look good.
Buen Camino

Thanks Tia Valeria! Will do

 

[notion900]

Just to note that the albergue at La Mesa appears to be closed at the moment. This is the overspill for Berducedo, so best to book at Berducedo.

Also don't miss the amazing museum of rural life at Grandas de Salime.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Just to note that the albergue at La Mesa appears to be closed at the moment. This is the overspill for Berducedo, so best to book at Berducedo.

Also don't miss the amazing museum of rural life at Grandas de Salime.

Thanks for the tips! Much appreciated