Possible stages on the Invierno

[ebrandt]

@peregrina2000 I think your interpretation is right. I didn't know whether the Pacita boarding house and Pension Pacita were the same place. But in any case, Pension Pacita is no longer listed on Gronz or on any other lodging sites that I have checked. Their listing on booking is inactive. And I couldn't find them on a couple of the Spanish Penson/Casa Rural sites I checked either. I interpret all of this to mean that it is highly unlikely that Pension Pacita will be operating this summer.

Here is what I think I have worked out for our Invierno stages. We will be continuing from the Frances so I have started at Molinaseca. But I thought this might be useful to other planning short stages on the Invierno. Plus -- anyone please let me know if any of this sounds wrong or I'm missing something!

Plus -- if we stay in Salcedo, is there a better way than walking the road to regain the camino continuing to Monforte?

1. Molinaseca to Villavieja @22 km
2. Villavieja to Las Medulas @11.7 km (I am walking with a metallurgist so we need plenty of time to explore Law Medulas !
3. Las Medulas to Sobradelo @20km
4. Sobradelo to A Rua 22.1
5. A Rua to Quiroga @26.5 km
6. Quiroga to Salcedo via the trail from Barxa do Lor @23.4 km
7. Salcedo via the road to Monforte de Lemos @18.8 km
8. Monforte to Torre Vilarino @16.5km
9. Torre Vilarino to Hotel/Albergue Vilaseco @21.1km
10. Vilaseco to Rodiero @23.4 km
11. Rodiero to Lalin @21.8 km
12. Lalin to Banderia @22.8 km
13. Banderia to Outiero @17.5 km
14. Outiero to Santiago @17.4 km

LizB

 

[peregrina2000]

These look great! Hoping you don‘t hit Torre Vilariño on a Monday, like I did. I was able to walk the loop of course, but the museum was closed. The gate onto the grounds was open, so I was able to walk up to the prehistoric castro and see another pretty Miño view, but I would have loved to see the museum.

And IMO, it is well worth the extra few euros to get the non-pilgrim menú del día at Torre Vilariño. Actually I can’t remember if it’s just two menú del día choices or if one of them is labeled menú del peregrino. But in any case, go for the pricier one, IMHO. Such a lovely lovely place!

 

[ebrandt]

These look great! Hoping you don‘t hit Torre Vilariño on a Monday, like I did. I was able to walk the loop of course, but the museum was closed. The gate onto the grounds was open, so I was able to walk up to the prehistoric castro and see another pretty Miño view, but I would have loved to see the museum.

And IMO, it is well worth the extra few euros to get the non-pilgrim menú del día at Torre Vilariño. Actually I can’t remember if it’s just two menú del día choices or if one of them is labeled menú del peregrino. But in any case, go for the pricier one, IMHO. Such a lovely lovely place!

Thanks -- I thought it worked out great to have a short day to Torre Vilarino -- Plenty of time to walk the loop and go to the museum. If we are close to our planned schedule (big if with us ), we should be there on a Friday or Saturday. And I've noted the menu recommendation! L

 

[peregrina2000]

2. Villavieja to Las Medulas @11.7 km (I am walking with a metallurgist so we need plenty of time to explore Law Medulas !

I know you are a very thorough researcher, so you have probably already seen this, but have you thought about the alternative from Borrenes? It takes you directly up to the Mirador de Orellán, which in your case would then allow your metallurgist to spend the afternoon down below going to the two museums and actually poking around the weird formations themselves. The view from Orellán is unmissable, that’s for sure. And you can also visit an actual gallery at a spot very close to the mirador. Which I imagine would be high on a mettalurgist’s list.

 

[ebrandt]

One more question -- is Torre Vilarino something we should book in advance as there appear to be only 9 rooms (especially since we may be there on a weekend)? We are planning a rest day in Rabanal del Camino to stay at the monastery (hopefully) and to visit friends, but I also thought I could book any places on the Invierno at that time since I will pretty much know our timing by then. That should be about 9 days before we plan to stay there. I know in this semi-post pandemic world, its hard to know but if this is such a nice place maybe it will be busy this summer??? BTW it will be a luxurious stay at 100 euro for a double!

 

[peregrina2000]

is Torre Vilarino something we should book in advance as there appear to be only 9 rooms (especially since we may be there on a weekend)?

I would WhatsApp them and ask about Pilgrim prices. You are right that weekends are likely to be more in demand, but it’s not really high season yet.

 

[ebrandt]

I would WhatsApp them and ask about Pilgrim prices. You are right that weekends are likely to be more in demand, but it’s not really high season yet.

Good idea -- I will report back on pilgrim prices! Also, I just saw a place on Air BnB in Fion -- a room in a hotel hosted by Susana. Its could be a possibiliy and the reservation can be cancelled up til a couple days before. If push came to shove, we also could stay in Escairon (its a short day so the 3.4 km off the camino would not be a big deal at all. I just want to make sure that we can get something in under 30 km as walking 35 km is just not an option on my ankle.

 

[ebrandt]

Mmmm -- sorry for the repetitive posts. But I just figured out that the three Air BnB listings I found are all for Torre Vilarino! The Air BnB price is $75. And they offer free cancellation up to five days prior to the stay.
In the meantime, I just emailed Torre Vilarino to ask for a pilgrim price (their phone doesn't work on WhatsApp).

 

[VNwalking]

1. Molinaseca to Villavieja @22

I stayed in Borrenes, which made for an even shorter day. Highly recomnended, but I guess a bit of a slog from Molinaseca.

12. Lalin to Banderia @22.8 km

13. Banderia to Outiero @17.5

I walked Lalin-Silleda-Ponte Ulla
Staying in PU was very nice, with places to eat and a comfortable place to stay. Staying there also means you can tackle the big hill first thing in the morning rather than last thing in the afternoon.

I know you are a very thorough researcher, so you have probably already seen this, but have you thought about the alternative from Borrenes? It takes you directly up to the Mirador de Orellán, which in your case would then allow your metallurgist to spend the afternoon down below going to the two museums and actually poking around the weird formations themselves. The view from Orellán is unmissable, that’s for sure. And you can also visit an actual gallery at a spot very close to the mirador. Which I imagine would be high on a mettalurgist’s list.

I always defer to Laurie, but have a different take about this (eek!). I considered this alternative route, but honestly was very glad not to have gone that way. Going via the village first allows you to check out the museum right at the outset, which gives a lot of information. Then later you can go up to Orellán without any weight on your back and legs. It's steep up and steep down.

One way to avoid the steep downhill on the way back that I really wish I had done would be to follow the dirt road around the back (East) side of the hill to the Mirador de Pedrices, with its view back towards the village with the cliffs in the background. You could go there on your way out in the morning but the light is infiniely better in the afternoon. And it's a much gentler ( but admittedly longer) descent.

 

[peregrina2000]

I considered this alternative route, but honestly was very glad not to have gone that way. Going via the village first allows you to check out the museum right at the outset, which gives a lot of information. Then later you can go up to Orellán without any weight on your back and legs. It's steep up and steep down.

I’ve done this too, and it works fine. I first went to the museum at the entrance to town (across from the not highly recommended Hotel Medulio), then dropped off my pack in the Agoga. Walking up to the mirador without the pack is a real treat, especially since you go through some beautiful chestnut groves. And it is true that the afternoon light from Orellán is superb. So the later the better.

When I took the route from Borrenes directly to Orellán, it was more a question of trying something different, since Amancio had suggested it, and I liked seeing the village of Orellán, which has a few hippie-type hangouts. I would go that way again depending on time of day — for me, starting in Ponferrada, it meant I got to the mirador in the mid afternoon and it was really nice. I made it down to the Agoga for a late menú del día (you can reasonably rely that they will be serving food late since they have a lot of tour buses) and then spent the late afternoon walking around the lower trails.

The only route I would NOT recommend is what I did with @LTfit and a pilgrim seminarian. We somehow got on a LONG route up to Orellán from town. It was many kms of shadeless afternoon sun. I would definitely make sure that you take the steeper route, which is shorter, covered with shade, and full of chestnuts. There are good maps of the Médulas site, which I would highly recommend you look at. (They will also show VN’s recommended descent route, which does not require taking the long loop that we unintentionally took on the way up).

 

[ebrandt]

I know you are a very thorough researcher, so you have probably already seen this, but have you thought about the alternative from Borrenes? It takes you directly up to the Mirador de Orellán, which in your case would then allow your metallurgist to spend the afternoon down below going to the two museums and actually poking around the weird formations themselves. The view from Orellán is unmissable, that’s for sure. And you can also visit an actual gallery at a spot very close to the mirador. Which I imagine would be high on a mettalurgist’s list.

I have this all scoped out! Thanks. Whether we do it or not depends on how our various joints are doing on hills . But I think, if possible we will walk to Las Medulas via Orellan. If Tom gets his fill of mining things, we could continue to Puente Domingo Florez, then O Barco and then Montefurado (and do the train back to A Rua). By the time we get this far we will have a good sense of what our joints can tolerate!

I am so excited I can hardly stand the wait. It seems like I have been planning this trip forever. I have a countdown timer on my iPad and as I writ this, we leave in 33 days, 7 hours and 56 minutes....

 

[Flog]

I too, took the alternative path out of Borreñes to get up to the mirador, I believe I followed the same path from Sara Dhooma's video. It was a bit of a slog fully laden, so I can blame it on her!! But no, it was worth it and I would take the same path again..

 

[peregrina2000]

9. Torre Vilarino to Hotel/Albergue Vilaseco @21.1km

Again, you’ve probably got this covered, but you don’t need to walk into Penasillás to get to the Vilaseco. I’ve never seen it, but Gronze says it’s 450 m off-route, so I wonder if there is a sign taking you off the camino to get there. I remember @Sara_Dhooma had a bit of confusion getting there, but I think it was also in part because it was dark.

Have any other forum members stayed in the Vilaseco?

 

[ebrandt]

Brierly shows a cut off shortly after the camino leaves the highway at Boan, near A Lucenza. Hopefully we will be able to find it. But I will really pay attention! I didn't realize this might be hard to find. When I look at google maps and then at the map in the Wise Pilgrim Camino de Invierno map, I can see where the Hotel is. That should help.

 

[C clearly]

I am sneaking along behind you, picking up information and updating my own spreadsheet! The Invierno is currently at the top of my list - for starting around May 20-25, so I'll actually be ahead of you! (Liz - You are in June, right?)

I am planning a very leisurely walk - maybe 15 or 16 days from Ponferrada to Santiago. I was planning 3 slow days to get to Las Medulas, but I will re-read all the comments about Orellan above. I do like the idea of doing the steep day without a backpack, so I'll reconsider getting straight to Las Medulas on Day 2 and spending a second night there.

I have been watching the days of the week, in order not to miss the Museo in Torre Vilarino.

I am beginning to think I might book some of the accommodation in advance. At least that will force me to take the leisurely itinerary I intend.

I will have some extra time (a week or so) after the Invierno, and haven't decided what to do with that time yet. Maybe Finisterre, where I haven't yet been.

 

[palmah]

Thanks for this thread! We should be on the Invierno in a couple of weeks (God willing and the creeks don’t rise)!

 

[VNwalking]

I would go that way again depending on time of day — for me, starting in Ponferrada, it meant I got to the mirador in the mid afternoon and it was really nice.

I would definitely consider it as a different way to split the stages. If it were a Tuesday when most everything in LM is closed, I'd consider staying in the village of Orellán, and staying on top and completely bypassing the village of Las Medulas the next day. I wouldn't recommend that for the first time, though.

We somehow got on a LONG route up to Orellán from town. It was many kms of shadeless afternoon sun. I would definitely make sure that you take the steeper route, which is shorter, covered with shade, and full of chestnuts.

Yes. Steep! But beautiful and the pain is short-lived.

so I'll reconsider getting straight to Las Medulas on Day 2 and spending a second night there.

A very good idea, I think. I loved rambling around without my pack, and there's plenty to explore. The small lakes out of town created by the mine works are very pretty.

I have been watching the days of the week

Don't go through Las Medulas on a Tuesday. Almost everything is closed!!!

 

[ebrandt]

I got a quick email response from Torre Vilarino about pilgrim rates:

“We do have special rates for pilgrims and we can stamp the credential as an establishment attached to the Camino de Santiago. The price of the double room would be €25 per person with breakfast included. For lunch or dinner they also have a reduced rate of €12 per person.”

This seems like such a great deal in light of their normal rates!

 

[peregrina2000]

Yes. Steep! But beautiful and the pain is short-lived.

So, VN, based on your picture, I am wondering if I misremember that descent to the town of Médulas as going through chestnuts — I’m no tree expert, but I am sure that’s not what your picture shows.

 

[peregrina2000]

I was planning 3 slow days to get to Las Medulas, but I will re-read all the comments about Orellan above. I do like the idea of doing the steep day without a backpack, so I'll reconsider getting straight to Las Medulas on Day 2 and spending a second night there.

Going directly to Orellán adds about 200 m elevation gain. That puts the total elevation gain from Ponferrada to Orellán at about 1100 (roughly a SJPP-Roncesvalles day). I think that if you break up the Ponferrada - Médulas stage at Borrenes or Villavieja you will divide that into two more or less equal days. The forum guide has a good summary of pros and cons that Amancio wrote up.

 

[VNwalking]

So, VN, based on your picture, I am wondering if I misremember that descent to the town of Médulas as going through chestnuts — I’m no tree expert, but I am sure that’s not what your picture shows.

You remember correctly. Those are all chestnuts!
Root sprouts from older trees that are no longer there.

 

[peregrina2000]

You remember correctly. Those are all chestnuts!
Root sprouts from older trees that are no longer there.

Ha, so I remembered correctly that they were chestnuts but apparently no longer remember what chestnuts look like. But I think I definitely remember what their flowers smell like in springtime.... that pungent tropical sweet flavor is almost as much of a "smell trigger" as the smell of the Madrid metro. Unfortunately I am far from both now!

 

[VNwalking]

I'm having fun revisiting my photos.
Here is the beginning of that climb up to the mirador - almost all that green is chestnut trees:

They can be methuselahs like this beauty (between Villaviaja and Cornatel):

And if they are cut they sprout again to form many little ones (from the path up to the Mirador Orellán:


Who knows how old the roots of those slender trees along the path are - maybe a millenium or more. The Romans brought chestnuts to Spain to feed their laborers and their army of horses. In Las Medulas two thousand years later they are still a big part of the local culture, and have become a dominant aspect of the landscape.

 

[Theatregal]

@ebrandt You'll be on your way so soon! And @C clearly even sooner! Ahhh so happy to be reading this thread and revisiting memories and images of this camino!! The two nights and full day at Las Medulas were a highlight - wandering and exploring the lower trails in the morning and then the climb to the Mirador de Orellán for the glorious later afternoon light. The tunnel through to the viewing platform was spectacular!

 

[ebrandt]

I stayed in Borrenes, which made for an even shorter day. Highly recomnended, but I guess a bit of a slog from Molinaseca.

We thought we better not go that far with the elevation gain. We plan to walk from Rabanal to Molinaseca just the day before and that elevation loss is really significant. So we thought discretion was the better part of pain free walking ! Plus this gives us a chance to check out the castle that evening.

I walked Lalin-Silleda-Ponte Ulla

I'll check this out. I didn't have a reason for my stages other than spreading out the distances.

Going via the village first allows you to check out the museum right at the outset, which gives a lot of information. Then later you can go up to Orellán without any weight on your back and legs. It's steep up and steep down.

I hadn't thought of this -- walking up that elevation without packs seems like a good idea!. Tom is finally focusing on the details of our trip. Usually he lets me putter and plan and then just goes on the ride. But I got him to check out the Las Medulas website. I think he definitely wants to hit the museum first. I had entertained the thought that if we walked via Orellan, we might just continue to Puente Domingo Florez. But I suspect its silly of me to think that I could pry him away from the gold mine site anyway!

I am sneaking along behind you, picking up information and updating my own spreadsheet! The Invierno is currently at the top of my list - for starting around May 20-25, so I'll actually be ahead of you! (Liz - You are in June, right?)

You are right that you will be about two weeks ahead of us. We start in Irun on 14 May. I think we will get to the invierno around 11 June-ish

@VNwalking and @Theatregal pics are sooooo great. I thik seeing them is finally what got Tom to really engage! And that is saying a lot

 

[Flog]

 

[C clearly]

Going directly to Orellán adds about 200 m elevation gain. That puts the total elevation gain from Ponferrada to Orellán at about 1100 (roughly a SJPP-Roncesvalles day). I think that if you break up the Ponferrada - Médulas stage at Borrenes or Villavieja you will divide that into two more or less equal days.

I was thinking of breaking it into 3 stages:

1. Ponferrada to Santalia del Bierzo (12 Km)
2. Santalia to Borrenes passing by the Castillo (9.5 km)
3. Borrenes to Las Medulas via Mirador Orellan (11 km)

So how bad would the 11 km hike be, even with a backpack? That "feels" like the right order of things, rather going first to Las Medulas and backtracking to Orellan as a day trip.

If I went straight to Las Medulas on Day 2, I would arrive on a Tuesday, and would be able to see the visitor's centre on Wednesday.

Don't go through Las Medulas on a Tuesday. Almost everything is closed!!!

The outdoor sites are still available any day, aren't they? Other than the visitor's centre and choices of places to eat, are there other things to do? Presumably the hotel would serve food.

I am definitely interested in your comments. These would be the first few days of my Camino, so it is nice to have the options lined up.

 

[C clearly]

I have just realized something. In 2016, my sister-in-law and I were taking a day off in Ponferrada. We decided on the spur of the moment to jump on a bus to take us to see Las Medulas. I never really figured out where the bus dropped us off, but we had to rush (walking) up a long highway hill to get to Las Medulas for a quick visit and hurry back down to get the bus back to Ponferrada.

Now, thanks to Google Earth and KML files, I realize that we walked from Carucedo to las Medulas and back. So I have been there, done that. I am finding the Mirador Orellan route more tempting, and there are a couple of lovely places to stay in Orellan. Maybe I'll take 4 days from Ponferrada to Las Medulas!

What do you think? (I might still be there when Liz passes through 2 weeks later.)

 

[Flog]

I did it on a Sunday, starting out without breakfast, and it was a long, hot day from Villavieja to Sobredelo. I wanted to get up to the mirador early, while the sun was low so I set out at first light. Nothing was open in Borreñes when I passed through at 7:30 am. The alternative path out of Borreñes up to the mirador involved a rocky descent before crossing the riverbed, then battling through some undergrowth on the tough ascent afterwards. Despite being hungry, I remember feeling happy that I was doing it at the beginning of the day, that it would have been a real slog in the late afternoon. I was rewarded with the mirador to myself (though the tunnel wasn't yet open), a glorious relaxed walk down through the national park, and a wonderful, well deserved breakfast at the lodge at the entrance just as the tourists started arriving. I had a quick look in the visitor centre, then continued on my way towards Flórez and Sobredelo...

 

[peregrina2000]

1. Ponferrada to Santalia del Bierzo (12 Km)
2. Santalia to Borrenes passing by the Castillo (9.5 km)
3. Borrenes to Las Medulas via Mirador Orellan (11 km)

Listing stages is like waving a red flag in front of a bull for me.

Those first 12 km will be flat-ish. You will be there in 3-4 hours max. There is nothing in Santalla del Bierzo, but apparently the owner will give you a meal. I get the idea of starting out slow, and I also think it’s a good idea to be cautious starting out. But it’s hard to know what you’ll be wanting to do when you actually start walking. Villavieja is a about 3-4 km further on, and it’s an ascent that will get your pulse up, but it is in the 300-400 m range. The place in Santalla del Bierzo is an Air bnb and might be hard to get into with no advance warning, so maybe you will just have to bite the bullet and decide whether to try to forge ahead to Villavieja.

Santalla to Borrenes bypassing the castillo also means bypassing Villavieja. I think it would all be on the road, and it misses the very pretty little village. It also misses the ascent to Villavieja (which is the majority of the ascent to the castle). From Villavieja to the castle is one short little huffer and puffer. These kms would be almost totally flat, so it is really a low-km day. Leaving you in another place that has nothing going on.

Borrenes to Médulas via Mirador will add another 150 m to the ”normal” Borrenes to Médulas, I think, so you would have an 11 km day with about 450 (?). Borrenes to Médulas via official route gives you the advantage that you would still have plenty of time to visit the mirador, but could do it without your backpack. And since you would be arriving probably in the late morning or early afternoon, you are not getting the best afternoon light there. Don’t get me wrong, the views are gorgeous whenever you go, but the falling sun shining on those dirt hills turns them to gold. Walking directly to the mirador is perfect if you have a longer stage and will get there later.

I know you mentioned earlier a two day walk with a full day in Médulas, which is what @Theatregal did and enjoyed a lot, though I vaguely remember something about a snafu in Ponferrada and having to get to Villavieja in a cab.

Having had this covid break from caminos makes those of us who are on the higher end of the age spectrum a little skittish, so I am not giving you a recommendation, just talking through alternatives.

 

[VNwalking]

It'd be a pity to miss the walk up to Villavieja, and the castilo. That whole stretch is a highlight of the camino. Old roads, old chestnuts, and amazing views.

About Tuesday in Las Medulas: The museum was open when I got there at midmorning, having walked from Borrenes. It was closed in the afternoon, I think. The hotel was completely dead - locked and closed. No food, no nada.

There was one place in town that had bar fare, and the Agoga may also be open for lunch, I don't know - by then I was headed up to the Mirador Orellan. As Laurie said, to get up to the mirador in the afternoon is best for the light - late afternoon for Mirador de Pedrices.

That "feels" like the right order of things, rather going first to Las Medulas and backtracking to Orellan as a day trip.

I really would hate to do that hill with a pack, and you're not actually bactracking if you walk from Borrenes via the official route. When you do that, one of the first things you pass is the museum. After that, you can stop to drop your pack off in town wherever you stay, continuing on to the mirador. It's not backtracking the way you came, but left of the camino into the bowl made by the mine works (there are plenty of places to walk down there too). It's a natural flow.

The docent at the museum really knew his stuff, and had superb English. He clued me in on places to walk that people normally miss. That alone was reason to be grateful that I went the official way, and had gone to the museum first.

 

[peregrina2000]

About Tuesday in Las Medulas

Forum regulars will remember that the debate over what's open in Médulas on Tuesdays led to some pretty nasty knock down dragouts but we did get some clarity. Way back when, I contacted both Agoga and Socorro (now closed, sadly) and both confirmed they were open on Tuesdays. I didn't bother with the Hotel Medulio, which seemed like a last choice option anyway. It was open one of the three times I have walked the Invierno but I can't remember days of the week.

There are two museums in the village. The one at the entrance to town as you come in on the "official" route is open every day morning and afternoon. It has a lot of very good information, diorama type displays, etc.

Horario y visitas

El Aula Arqueológica es una moderna instalación de carácter didáctico, construida por la Junta de Castilla y León y gestionada por el Instituto de Estudios...

www.ieb.org.es

The second place, which I can't find now, is, I think, more of a tourist information spot. But additional info would be great.

Some restaurants are closed on Tuesdays, including Mesón Durandarte, El Lagar de las Médulas,

Bar Tapería O Camiño Real shows that it is closed on Wednesdays. Arcadio Travieso shows being closed on Wednesday and Thursday. Restaurante Bar Marife shows closed on Thursday. Of course all of this can change on a dime. Since the ONLY business these places will get is from tourists, you should be prepared for closures when the owner decides it costs more to keep the place open then what is generated in revenues.

Even on an "open" day, there isn't much in the way of non-touristy commerce, so that better idea is to plan to eat at Agoga and/or bring food.

 

[peregrina2000]

The alternative path out of Borreñes up to the mirador involved a rocky descent before crossing the riverbed, then battling through some undergrowth on the tough ascent afterwards.

LOVELY picture from the terrace of Agoga. It was a very pleasant place to sit and relax after the day's walk.

My experience was a bit less grueling, but I would highly recommend that people take a GPS. I know some say that it is well marked, but I had some issues and would have been in a bit of a pickle without my wikiloc tracks.

 

[VNwalking]

The second place, which I can't find now, is, I think, more of a tourist information spot. But additional info would be great.

Yes.
It is up by the church, near where the paths led to the mine workings, between Casa Socorro and Agoga. Inside it looked to be as much a souvenir shop as a museum. Google shows it open 11-2 and 3-6 every day. The actual museum is on the right just as you come into town, before the Hotel Medulo, open10-2 and 3:30-7 daily.
Google's map:

 

[peregrina2000]

I got a quick email response from Torre Vilarino about pilgrim rates:

“We do have special rates for pilgrims and we can stamp the credential as an establishment attached to the Camino de Santiago. The price of the double room would be €25 per person with breakfast included. For lunch or dinner they also have a reduced rate of €12 per person.”

This seems like such a great deal in light of their normal rates!

I wanted to check first with Susana before releasing her phone number on a public forum. She told me the whole world of pilgrims already had the number, so not to worry.

She will NOT answer this phone, she only responds via WhatsApp. +34 640 10 46 27

This is probably the best way for pilgrims to make contact with Torre Vilariño. Those who don't use WhatsApp can use email, which @ebrandt successfully.

 

[Theatregal]

@VNwalking and @Theatregal pics are sooooo great. I thik seeing them is finally what got Tom to really engage! And that is saying a lot

Nothing like a good visual Seeing photos of Médulas, more than anything, is what decided me on walking the Invierno!

The outdoor sites are still available any day, aren't they? Other than the visitor's centre and choices of places to eat, are there other things to do?

Yes, other than the tunnel which has specific hours, you can wander through the whole site anytime. I enjoyed wandering about the village looking at the views of the mountains from different perspectives. The little church is very pretty. Had some nice chats with local people about the area.

I know you mentioned earlier a two day walk with a full day in Médulas, which is what @Theatregal did and enjoyed a lot, though I vaguely remember something about a snafu in Ponferrada and having to get to Villavieja in a cab.

t'd be a pity to miss the walk up to Villavieja, and the castilo. That whole stretch is a highlight of the camino. Old roads, old chestnuts, and amazing views.

Yes, some of my luggage didn't arrive in Santiago with me and I had to spend an extra day there before catching the bus to Ponferrada. I decided that the leg to Villavieja would be the best one to miss to make up time. I regret missing that leg - next time! But it did mean that I had lots of time for the lovely walk through Villavieja, to the castilo and time to explore there. FYI entrance is free for pilgrims with your credential.

The second place, which I can't find now, is, I think, more of a tourist information spot. But additional info would be great.

The museum centre was closed on the Sunday that I was there but the two women working in the smaller tourist info spot (along the road between the church and Agoga) were great. The women were local, knowledgeable about the site and gave me a very good map.

I had breakfast both mornings and dinner both evenings at Agoga. Very good food. Lunch wasn't available on Sunday as they were busy with several tourist buses but I had a great lunch at the little garden cafe near the museum centre.

One thing to note: when I walked in June 2019, there was no longer a food market in town. When I left on Monday morning the woman at Agoga made a lunch to take with me - some bread, cheese, tomato and an apple.

@ebrandt and @C clearly , If you do stay at Agoga, if it's available, ask for the balcony room at the front. A wonderful place to sit - it's shaded and the view is spectacular!

 

[peregrina2000]

and there are a couple of lovely places to stay in Orellan.

So, maybe day one to Villavieja, day two to Orellán, day 3 to the mirador and then down to visit the site. The only “problem“ with an overnight in Orellán is that you will then unavoidably get to the mirador in the early morning. It is a flat few kms from the village to the mirador. I suppose you could walk over to the mirador late in the afternoon when you arrive in the village, but then you are just a hop, step and a jump away from the Agoga, down the steep hill from the mirador to the town of Médulas. I agree that there are some lovely places in Orellán, but that’s about all there is in Orellán.

ask for the balcony room at the front. A wonderful place to sit - it's shaded and the view is spectacular

That’s MY room! It was so great to sit out there. I don’t know if anyone else had the same problem but when I was going down early in the morning to get to my thermos of coffee and breakfast, the stairs were dark and I uninitentionally hit a doorbell. The family lives there and did not come to answer, thankfully. I later whatsApp-ed them to apologize and they told me it happens a lot. But it would be great if I thought I could help others avoid that embarrassment.

The museum centre was closed on the Sunday that I was there

Thanks for the heads up — the hours for the museum are

• Monday - Friday : 10:00 h. a 14:00 h
• Saturday: 10:00 h. a 13:30 h. y de 15:30 h. a 18:00 h.
• Sunday: 10:00 a 14:00 h.

 

[C clearly]

The only “problem“ with an overnight in Orellán is that you will then unavoidably get to the mirador in the early morning.

There is no reason to believe that I will get up early in the morning and rush off walking!

I really enjoy taking my time, especially if I am staying in a lovely casa rural, getting up slowly, lingering over breakfast, head in my phone writing my blog or whatever, looking up to see the view, exploring the interesting little things in the garden. So, I could stall my departure from Orellan very happily. But maybe not to late afternoon. But as you say, I could check it out the evening before.

That late morning start is something that I hope to achieve other days on this, my leisurely Camino. For example, even on the first day out of Ponferrada. I could hang around Ponferrada until noon and then walk to Santalia or Villavieja.

Santalla to Borrenes bypassing the castillo also means bypassing Villavieja.

The short stages would allow me to visit both, even if the castle is closed and I don't stay overnight in Villavieja.

I am enjoying going through these options, especially since they are the first days of my Camino this time. Once I get confident about those first few days, I don't worry so much about the rest.

I'll need to make certain decisions before I go - if I want to stay in one of those casas rurales.

 

[Flog]

I haven't witnessed the view in the evening light, so I can't compare, but early morning was spectacular anyway, with the sun low...

Final pic from me!!

 

[ebrandt]

I love all these little tips and insights. And @Flog -- more pics would be fine by me!

 

[peregrina2000]

I have been wondering about Casa Socorro, which was the go-to (cheap) pilgrim place in Médulas for many years. It was actually inside the home of the owners, a few rooms upstairs that were rented by pilgrims. It is right in the center of the village. Gronze no longer lists it at all, while a google search shows that it is still on a lot of camino websites.

If anyone is wandering around town and happens to see it, updated info on the status would be great.

Without Casa Socorro, lodging options in Médulas are limited. Especially since the private albergue that opened a few years ago has turned themselves into a “whole house rental”. That means that pilgrims are left with the Hotel Medulio (which no one has recommended positively to my knowledge), and the Agoga, which is definitely a very nice place to stay and very pilgrim friendly. But the prices may be out of reach for some. I can’t remember what I paid there, does anyone have a good idea about current pricing at the Agoga?

 

[VNwalking]

Final pic from me

Noooo.

Especially since the private albergue that opened a few years ago has turned themselves into a “whole house rental”

This is a real pity.
Does anyone know if this was a covid-time short term measure? If lots of pilgrims start showing up looking for places to stay, hopefully someone will pick up the slack.

 

[peregrina2000]

Noooo.


This is a real pity.
Does anyone know if this was a covid-time short term measure? If lots of pilgrims start showing up looking for places to stay, hopefully someone will pick up the slack.

I have just WhatsApped the albergue owner. She tells me there are no plans to return to the albergue format. I guess they are having good results renting out the whole house.

 

[ebrandt]

I have just WhatsApped the albergue owner. She tells me there are no plans to return to the albergue format. I guess they are having good results renting out the whole house.

I emailed them last night and have gotten the same answer. I just edited this post because I forgot to add that the have a minimum 2 night stay.

Here's my question, with only the Hotel and Agogo in Las Medulas is it important to book ahead? I think I am going to start another thread on booking ahead, because I have lots of questions!

 

[Oregon's Mark]

On the Camino Invierno, there is a "don't miss" albergue in Puente de Domingo Flores, Casa Rosa, opened a year or so ago. The hosts are an amazingly wonderful family. Accommodations, food, and hosts are the best!!!

 

[peregrina2000]

On the Camino Invierno, there is a "don't miss" albergue in Puente de Domingo Flores, Casa Rosa, opened a year or so ago. The hosts are an amazingly wonderful family. Accommodations, food, and hosts are the best!!!

I think that for many people Puente Domingo Flórez is an awkward endpoint. Where did you sleep the previous night? I suppose people could spend the first night in Villavieja, walk through Médulas for a quick visit and then carry on? I would do that now that I’ve walked several times, but I think for most people, especially on their first Invierno, the lure of Médulas is too strong.

But I do really wish them well.

 

[C clearly]

I think that for many people Puente Domingo Flórez is an awkward endpoint. Where did you sleep the previous night?

If you sleep in Las Medulas, spend the morning exploring whatever you didn't see the evening before, and then walk 10 km to Puente de Domingo Flores.

 

[peregrina2000]

If you sleep in Las Medulas, spend the morning exploring whatever you didn't see the evening before, and then walk 10 km to Puente de Domingo Flores.

That’s a really good idea. I remember a couple of forum members who walked to Médulas on the first day from Ponferrada and were then too zonked to visit the site. They had thought they would get there and feel like exploring, but when they got there all they felt like doing was sleeping. They just forged on ahead to Barco the next day and missed the magnificent Médulas.

So the albergue in Puente de Domingo Flórez is a great choice for those people too.