Primitivo alternative routes

[Caplen]

We are walking the Norte route from Irun next year, and will probably then take the Primitivo. I have a couple questions about starting and ending the Primitivo.

My understanding is that the turnoff is in Villavicosa, to Oviedo. Is it possible to walk from Gijon to Oviedo instead? We'd like to stay by the sea as long as possible.

If it is possible, is there anything - walking/road conditions, distance, accomodations, etc - that would recommend one alternative over the other?

Also, we would like to avoid as much of the Frances as possible. Is it possible to cut back over to the Norte in, or after, Lugo? Or any other possible walking track (or country road) route directly to SdC after Lugo, bypassing the Frances entirely?

Thanks,
Caplen

 

[mspath]

Caplen,

For a quick overview/comparison of these two caminos check out this Mundicamino site.

Try plotting your own walking route from Lugo to Santiago on Google maps. Leaving Lugo you might roughly follow LU-232 west to Friol, then LU-233 and AC-233 to the Monastery at Sobrado dos Monxes, which is back on the Norte and has an albergue, then continue to Boimil, Boimorto, and sw to Santiago.

Happy Planning,

Margaret Meredith

 

[peregrina2000]

We are walking the Norte route from Irun next year, and will probably then take the Primitivo. I have a couple questions about starting and ending the Primitivo.

My understanding is that the turnoff is in Villavicosa, to Oviedo. Is it possible to walk from Gijon to Oviedo instead? We'd like to stay by the sea as long as possible.

If it is possible, is there anything - walking/road conditions, distance, accomodations, etc - that would recommend one alternative over the other?

Also, we would like to avoid as much of the Frances as possible. Is it possible to cut back over to the Norte in, or after, Lugo? Or any other possible walking track (or country road) route directly to SdC after Lugo, bypassing the Frances entirely?

Thanks,
Caplen

Hi, Caplen,

I don´t know that Gijón to Oviedo has a marked camino, but I know there is, or at least there is supposed to be, a marked camino from Oviedo to Avilés (the fact that you would be walking "backwards" on that stretch would complicate things a bit, too). One option, though, would be for you to stay on the Norte till Avilés and then walk south to Oviedo, but the Gijón to Avilés stretch is very industrial so that would not be so pleasant.

When I walked the Norte, I did the detour down to Oviedo and then went back up to the Norte from Oviedo to Avilés. I can tell you that, at least when I walked, the markings were not good. The first 12 km from Oviedo heading north were fine, but then in the town of Posada la Llanera, we lost the arrows, and couldn´t find anyone in any public place (police, library, etc.) who could tell us anything about the Camino. This presumably has changed by now. But we wound up spending the rest of the km into Avilés on a very narrow shoulder on a national highway loaded with trucks. It was awful.

Here are a few earlier discussions that may help:
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...d-line-back-to-norte-route.23458/#post-178878

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/from-gijon.21992/#post-171841
If you turn off at Villaviciosa, you will have the option of visiting the amazing pre-romanesque church at Valdediós. but I don´t know if that sort of thing interests you. It is beautiful, in the middle of a luscious green valley. The way from Villaviciosa to Oviedo is very well marked, as is the short detour to Valdediós, and there are several albergues to break it up.

As far as your other question about avoiding the Francés for as long as possible -- As you probably already know, the Norte hits the Francés in Arzua, while the Primitivo joins at Melide, 14 km earlier. There is a way to cut over from Lugo to Sobrado dos Monxes via Friol (search with a few of those names and you´ll find a couple of threads, I´m sure). If memory serves, Ria from the forum tried that last year but turned back and stuck with the Primitivo ultimately.

I´ve walked the Primitivo twice but I´ve never done that detour. Staying in Boente the first night on the Francés (walk Ponte Ferreira-Melide-Boente) reduces the shock because it´s a small town with one small and very nice albergue and a pensión. So the crowds don´t really hit you till the next day in Arzua anyway. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[laurap]

Hi Caplen,

I would second what Laurie has said here about the route from Avilés--I followed it a few years ago and it certainly wasn't a pleasant walk. The route to Oviedo from Villaviciosa on the other hand is quite nice (at least the first 2/3 of it). Last year I stayed at Valdediós and we were given a tour of the pre-Romanesque church, which I really enjoyed.

I've also never done the detour to Sobrado from the Primitivo, but the Monastery is wonderful, and I can certainly understand the desire to make that detour. The thread is located here: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/route-from-lugo-to-sobrado.17132/.

Buen Camino

 

[Caplen]

Thanks to all for the info! Knowing what to search for (Friol and Sobrado dos Monxes) got me to more useful threads too. Sounds very doable to make it to Sobrado. (I'm definitely not the first to ask) I saw hints of back ways directly to SdC too, but it sounds like our best bet at that point will be to ask hospitaleros and such as we go.

Sobrado is after Deva, correct? I wonder (not sure how many km before Sobrado it is) if we can rejoin the Norte closer to Deva? I've heard the natural albergue there is lovely.

Sounds like leaving the Norte at Villaviciosa is definitely the way to go.
(I love the ocean, but will get plenty more of it when we head to Fistera and Muxia. Especially since we also intend to look for a walking route from Muxia to A Coruna along the Costa da Morte, and walk the Ingles back to SdC)

Laurie, I credit you for my knowing the charms of the Primitivo at all. You are responsible for luring us off the Norte for the 2nd half of our journey. You realize that you only have yourself to blame as the Primitivo gets extra crowded in the years to come if you continue to sing its praises?

 

[mspath]

...
Sobrado is after Deva, correct? I wonder (not sure how many km before Sobrado it is) if we can rejoin the Norte closer to Deva? I've heard the natural albergue there is lovely.
...

Deva/Deba is the end of the 3rd stage on the Camino de Norte. Deva is roughly 320 k east of Villaviciosa where you plan to join the Primitivo and, of course, well before Sobrado dos Monxes. From Villaviciosa to Sobrado dos Monxes is roughly 290 k.

MM

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie, I credit you for my knowing the charms of the Primitivo at all. You are responsible for luring us off the Norte for the 2nd half of our journey. You realize that you only have yourself to blame as the Primitivo gets extra crowded in the years to come if you continue to sing its praises?

There are so many unwalked caminos in Spain, that there's plenty of room for everyone. If the Primitivo gets too crowded, there's the Vadiniense, the Invierno, the Olvidado, the Catala, Baztan, the Mozarabe... the list seems to be endless, fortunately -- or unfortunately for those of us who can never get enough!

But, Caplen, if you are starting to sink into a Camino addiction as I was back in 2006 when I walked the Norte, you might want to consider just sticking with the Norte the whole way into Santiago. Here's what I reasoned -- by that time, I knew I would be coming back to the Camino on a regular basis. I thought it was very unlikely that I would come back to walk Villaviciosa to Santiago (not sure why, it just didn't seem like a likely option to start the Norte "in the middle"), but that I would be likely to return to walk the Primitivo, especially since it can be walked in conjunction with the Salvador from Leon. The Norte beyond Aviles is really quite beautiful, too, and the walk through Galicia when you turn off the coast at Ribadeo is also very nice. Not trying to discourage you from your plans, because the Primitivo is one of my favorites, just throwing that out there into the mix.

And I hope you will let us know about the GR10 from SJPP to Irun, that is on my list as well, maybe in conjunction with the Baztan someday. buen camino, Laurie

 

[da10sgal]

Following this thread with great interest as this will be my route in 2015

 

[Caplen]

Deva/Deba is the end of the 3rd stage on the Camino de Norte. Deva is roughly 320 k east of Villaviciosa where you plan to join the Primitivo and, of course, well before Sobrado dos Monxes. From Villaviciosa to Sobrado dos Monxes is roughly 290 k.

MM

Ah, turns out it is the Deva Naturalmente Albergue in San Breixo Parga, about 6 km after Baamonde. Gronze says it is Cerrado though, so not sure of its status.

There are so many unwalked caminos in Spain, that there's plenty of room for everyone. If the Primitivo gets too crowded, there's the Vadiniense, the Invierno, the Olvidado, the Catala, Baztan, the Mozarabe... the list seems to be endless, fortunately -- or unfortunately for those of us who can never get enough!

But, Caplen, if you are starting to sink into a Camino addiction as I was back in 2006 when I walked the Norte, you might want to consider just sticking with the Norte the whole way into Santiago. Here's what I reasoned -- by that time, I knew I would be coming back to the Camino on a regular basis. I thought it was very unlikely that I would come back to walk Villaviciosa to Santiago (not sure why, it just didn't seem like a likely option to start the Norte "in the middle"), but that I would be likely to return to walk the Primitivo, especially since it can be walked in conjunction with the Salvador from Leon. The Norte beyond Aviles is really quite beautiful, too, and the walk through Galicia when you turn off the coast at Ribadeo is also very nice. Not trying to discourage you from your plans, because the Primitivo is one of my favorites, just throwing that out there into the mix.

And I hope you will let us know about the GR10 from SJPP to Irun, that is on my list as well, maybe in conjunction with the Baztan someday. buen camino, Laurie

I got the bug 15 years ago, and did 2 caminos, 2 years in a row. The first was the Frances, and the second started on the Norte, but walking alone, early in the season, back before the Norte had decent waymarking and albergue infrastructure, was rough. I made it (with some train leapfrogs) to Santander, then cut down to Sahagun to continue on the Frances to Fistera.

I thought my camino bug was satiated, but it has woken up recently with the interest of my adventurous partner. Definitely wanted to try the Norte again - I didn't regret my decision to leave it in 2002, but it was amazing while it lasted and I do feel some unfinished business. We intend to be in Spain for about 10 weeks, and are piecing together a route that sounds as beautiful and challenging and peaceful as possible. Who knows if we'll ever return? Kilimanjaro may be the next adventure.

I have thought about just staying on the Norte, and perhaps we'll end up doing that. We want stay flexible and open-minded. But we love mountains and ocean equally, and the Primativo sounds like such an awesome fit with the Norte.

We are excited about the GR10 as well, and I'll update here when we've done it. I wanted my Carlos to experience the Pyrenees, like I did on that first day's Route Napoleon in 1999. So it was great to find we could combine a Pyrenees start with the Norte.

 

[Caplen]

Following this thread with great interest as this will be my route in 2015

Fantastic! Not sure of our departure date - probably sometime in the 3rd week of May 2015. We'll do SJPdP to Irun (GR10), Irun to Oviedo (Norte), Oviedo to SdC (Primativo), SdC to Fistera, then Muxia..... then hopefully find a walking path from Muxia to A Coruna or Ferrol along the Costa da Morte, and walk the Ingles back to SdC.

When are you going?

 

[mspath]

Caplen,

Whoops! Thanks for your update! Perhaps the Deva Naturalmente Albergue in San Breixo Parga which you cite is named after the location Deva/Deba and the river of that name on the north coast .

MM

 

[da10sgal]

Wow, that is an ambitious route! Cam del Norte will be my second pilgrimage so we will start in Irun the first week in May. Looking now like I will stay on Norte as long as possible

 

[peregrino_tom]

mspath said: ↑
Deva/Deba is the end of the 3rd stage on the Camino de Norte. Deva is roughly 320 k east of Villaviciosa where you plan to join the Primitivo and, of course, well before Sobrado dos Monxes. From Villaviciosa to Sobrado dos Monxes is roughly 290 k.

MM
Ah, turns out it is the Deva Naturalmente Albergue in San Breixo Parga, about 6 km after Baamonde. Gronze says it is Cerrado though, so not sure of its status.

Just to clarify:
Deba is as MM says typically at the end of the third stage out of Irun. But there is also a popular and good albergue at Cabuenes about 7km before Gijon (several hundred km to the east of Deba) in the campsite called Camping Deva.

Margaret - you seem to be spending more time on the Norte threads these days - any plans you would like to share??

 

[Juanma]

Ah, turns out it is the Deva Naturalmente Albergue in San Breixo Parga, about 6 km after Baamonde. Gronze says it is Cerrado though, so not sure of its status.

Hi everyone! Yes, Devanaturalmente is closed since last October. I know cause the last hospitalero there and his family are partly the ones to "blame" for me and my wife now being hospitaleros ourselves, just about 30km South of Devanaturalmente, but on the Primitivo. We still keep contact with them: they were wonderful hospitaleros and still are a wonderful family and good friends!