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Primitivo and covid

Leemac40

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Sarria to Santiago
I have been planning on doing the primitivo route for the last couple of years which has been on hold, obviously! I am hopeful that I will be able to travel in September to start in oviedo. I am slightly concerned as I now suffer from the effects of long covid which makes me more determined to do the camino but I suffer from pretty bad fatigue. Just looking for some advice from people who have walked this route, I understand its a challenging, remote route. Is there regular villages? How challenging is the route? Is there access to transport along the way in case I have to give up walking?
 
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Nery Aurora

New Member
Past OR future Camino
2021
I have been planning on doing the primitivo route for the last couple of years which has been on hold, obviously! I am hopeful that I will be able to travel in September to start in oviedo. I am slightly concerned as I now suffer from the effects of long covid which makes me more determined to do the camino but I suffer from pretty bad fatigue. Just looking for some advice from people who have walked this route, I understand its a challenging, remote route. Is there regular villages? How challenging is the route? Is there access to transport along the way in case I have to give up walking?
Hello, we completed the Primitivo from Oviedo to Santiago, this past June 2021. We continued walking to Muxia. It was an wonderful Camino, and probably our favorite route. Asturias is a beautiful part of Spain and certainly one of my favorite regions for the green pastures, wildlife and the chestnuts. The hospitality of the people in Asturias is a balm for the weary Pilgrim. Services on the Primitivo are not as readily available when compared with the Frances. There are short kilometer days, but there will be stages when you will have to walk longer miles. That is the way of the Primitivo. Oviedo to Grado is a pretty fair walk, unlike Grado to La Espina where you traverse more mileage. You have the option of staying in Salas, and this may be more to your needs. From La Espina to Tineo is very pleasant. We stay in Campiello at Casa Herminia, not far from the Hospital route. Sra. Heminia is an award winning chef and her food and hospitality are not to be missed. El Hospital is gorgeous route. You will need to carry plenty of food and water to sustain you. However, there is the alternative Polla de Allande route that you may want to consider. In La Mesa, we stayed at the Alberque Miguelin where Sra. Conchita is a Wonderful hospitalera. The food is also very, very good. From La Mesa, you walk to Grandas de Salime. We are very adventures so we kept walking, and walking, and walking to Fonsagrada, my favorite stop on the Primitivo. The best restaurant on the Primitivo, Restaurante Cantabrico, is in Fonsagrada. This is food at its finest with fresh produce grown in the owner's garden, and mushrooms foraged locally. Every dish is cooked to perfection and the portions are pilgrim generous. Yes, this restaurant is a must stop on the Primitivo. In Fonsagrada, we stayed at the Pension Casa Cuartel. I was very impressed with the accomodations and would stay here again on a heart beat. During June, the municipal albuergues were closed due to the COVID-19 health measures, however, these may open by September. From Fonsagrada, it's a leasurely walk to O'Cadavo, where the hospitality of Mary awaits you at the Porta Santa Albergue. For delicious food, I recommend El Restaurante Neireo where Carmen will serve you a feast of goodness that is nourishing for the body and the soul. Next is the big city of Lugo where plenty of services await you. The only caution is to be mindful of holidays and such when rooms may be in short supply. From Lugo, we walked to Castaneda. Here Veronique and her mom offered up an amazing Pilgrim's feast and a great place to rest at the Albergue/restaurante Santiago. From Castaneda to Melide, and the last 100 kms to Santiago, your options for food and accomodations are plentiful. I trust this quick summary is enlightening as you meditate on the Camino that is right for you.

A note on COVID-19 testing to return to the USA. In June there were no testing sites at the Airport in Santiago but affordable testing was available at the Airport in Barajas. We paid an enormous amount of money to get our (throat swab) tests done in Santiago. There are many testing sites in Santiago and often the airlines will have a link to these 3rd parties with special discounts available. Our testing site was clean, friendly, efficient. Everything went well, without a hitch.

!Here is to your Buen Camino, Peregrina!
 

Leemac40

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Sarria to Santiago
Hello, we completed the Primitivo from Oviedo to Santiago, this past June 2021. We continued walking to Muxia. It was an wonderful Camino, and probably our favorite route. Asturias is a beautiful part of Spain and certainly one of my favorite regions for the green pastures, wildlife and the chestnuts. The hospitality of the people in Asturias is a balm for the weary Pilgrim. Services on the Primitivo are not as readily available when compared with the Frances. There are short kilometer days, but there will be stages when you will have to walk longer miles. That is the way of the Primitivo. Oviedo to Grado is a pretty fair walk, unlike Grado to La Espina where you traverse more mileage. You have the option of staying in Salas, and this may be more to your needs. From La Espina to Tineo is very pleasant. We stay in Campiello at Casa Herminia, not far from the Hospital route. Sra. Heminia is an award winning chef and her food and hospitality are not to be missed. El Hospital is gorgeous route. You will need to carry plenty of food and water to sustain you. However, there is the alternative Polla de Allande route that you may want to consider. In La Mesa, we stayed at the Alberque Miguelin where Sra. Conchita is a Wonderful hospitalera. The food is also very, very good. From La Mesa, you walk to Grandas de Salime. We are very adventures so we kept walking, and walking, and walking to Fonsagrada, my favorite stop on the Primitivo. The best restaurant on the Primitivo, Restaurante Cantabrico, is in Fonsagrada. This is food at its finest with fresh produce grown in the owner's garden, and mushrooms foraged locally. Every dish is cooked to perfection and the portions are pilgrim generous. Yes, this restaurant is a must stop on the Primitivo. In Fonsagrada, we stayed at the Pension Casa Cuartel. I was very impressed with the accomodations and would stay here again on a heart beat. During June, the municipal albuergues were closed due to the COVID-19 health measures, however, these may open by September. From Fonsagrada, it's a leasurely walk to O'Cadavo, where the hospitality of Mary awaits you at the Porta Santa Albergue. For delicious food, I recommend El Restaurante Neireo where Carmen will serve you a feast of goodness that is nourishing for the body and the soul. Next is the big city of Lugo where plenty of services await you. The only caution is to be mindful of holidays and such when rooms may be in short supply. From Lugo, we walked to Castaneda. Here Veronique and her mom offered up an amazing Pilgrim's feast and a great place to rest at the Albergue/restaurante Santiago. From Castaneda to Melide, and the last 100 kms to Santiago, your options for food and accomodations are plentiful. I trust this quick summary is enlightening as you meditate on the Camino that is right for you.

A note on COVID-19 testing to return to the USA. In June there were no testing sites at the Airport in Santiago but affordable testing was available at the Airport in Barajas. We paid an enormous amount of money to get our (throat swab) tests done in Santiago. There are many testing sites in Santiago and often the airlines will have a link to these 3rd parties with special discounts available. Our testing site was clean, friendly, efficient. Everything went well, without a hitch.

!Here is to your Buen Camino, Peregrina!
Hi Nery
Thanks so much for your reply and fantastic, detailed information, I will definitely make good use of this information. I only have 2 weeks due to work demands so plan to walk to Melide then travel to Santiago by bus. I plan to give it my best shot! I have previously walked from Sarria to Santiago which was an extremely spiritual experience and I caught the bug!
Thanks again and best wishes in your adventures in life! Xx
 

Mycroft

Active Member
Hello, we completed the Primitivo from Oviedo to Santiago, this past June 2021. We continued walking to Muxia. It was an wonderful Camino, and probably our favorite route. Asturias is a beautiful part of Spain and certainly one of my favorite regions for the green pastures, wildlife and the chestnuts. The hospitality of the people in Asturias is a balm for the weary Pilgrim. Services on the Primitivo are not as readily available when compared with the Frances. There are short kilometer days, but there will be stages when you will have to walk longer miles. That is the way of the Primitivo. Oviedo to Grado is a pretty fair walk, unlike Grado to La Espina where you traverse more mileage. You have the option of staying in Salas, and this may be more to your needs. From La Espina to Tineo is very pleasant. We stay in Campiello at Casa Herminia, not far from the Hospital route. Sra. Heminia is an award winning chef and her food and hospitality are not to be missed. El Hospital is gorgeous route. You will need to carry plenty of food and water to sustain you. However, there is the alternative Polla de Allande route that you may want to consider. In La Mesa, we stayed at the Alberque Miguelin where Sra. Conchita is a Wonderful hospitalera. The food is also very, very good. From La Mesa, you walk to Grandas de Salime. We are very adventures so we kept walking, and walking, and walking to Fonsagrada, my favorite stop on the Primitivo. The best restaurant on the Primitivo, Restaurante Cantabrico, is in Fonsagrada. This is food at its finest with fresh produce grown in the owner's garden, and mushrooms foraged locally. Every dish is cooked to perfection and the portions are pilgrim generous. Yes, this restaurant is a must stop on the Primitivo. In Fonsagrada, we stayed at the Pension Casa Cuartel. I was very impressed with the accomodations and would stay here again on a heart beat. During June, the municipal albuergues were closed due to the COVID-19 health measures, however, these may open by September. From Fonsagrada, it's a leasurely walk to O'Cadavo, where the hospitality of Mary awaits you at the Porta Santa Albergue. For delicious food, I recommend El Restaurante Neireo where Carmen will serve you a feast of goodness that is nourishing for the body and the soul. Next is the big city of Lugo where plenty of services await you. The only caution is to be mindful of holidays and such when rooms may be in short supply. From Lugo, we walked to Castaneda. Here Veronique and her mom offered up an amazing Pilgrim's feast and a great place to rest at the Albergue/restaurante Santiago. From Castaneda to Melide, and the last 100 kms to Santiago, your options for food and accomodations are plentiful. I trust this quick summary is enlightening as you meditate on the Camino that is right for you.

A note on COVID-19 testing to return to the USA. In June there were no testing sites at the Airport in Santiago but affordable testing was available at the Airport in Barajas. We paid an enormous amount of money to get our (throat swab) tests done in Santiago. There are many testing sites in Santiago and often the airlines will have a link to these 3rd parties with special discounts available. Our testing site was clean, friendly, efficient. Everything went well, without a hitch.

!Here is to your Buen Camino, Peregrina!
Nice summation. Thanks.
Am curious if you happened to notice at these restaurants if there was vegetarian fare?
 
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Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances 2015 and2016, Le Puy to Santiago 2017, Porto to Santiago 2018, Lisbon & Olvidado 2021
Nary Aurora, you wrote that "We stay in Campiello at Casa Herminia, not far from the Hospital route. Sra. Heminia is an award winning chef and her food and hospitality are not to be missed. El Hospital is gorgeous route. You will need to carry plenty of food and water to sustain you. However, there is the alternative Polla de Allande route that you may want to consider. In La Mesa, we stayed at the Alberque Miguelin where Sra. Conchita is a Wonderful hospitalera."

We would like to take on the challenge of the Hospital Route (going end of September). How far was the walk from Campiello to La Mesa? We trying to plan around 18-20 km days. Thanks for assistance and wonderful details of the route. Mike
 

Nandy61

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
2010 CF StJPP to Santiago
2014 CF Leon to Santiago
2015 Primitivo
The Hospitales route is not as bad as it sounds (IMO). Use Gronze.com and look at the elevation profile (just below the map, click on “ver perfil de la etapa “) it’s 600m climb out of Borres. You’ve probably done nearly that out of Cornellana or Salas. The thing is, there’s nothing up there, so food snd water are something you have to figure out beforehand. It’s 27.1km from Campiello to Berduceco and another 4.4km to La Mesa. You could stay in either village. Either way, the beauty of the day is worth every step so I highly recommend it!
 

NadineK

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances (2014)
Norte/Primitivo (2015)
San Salvador (2016)
Le Puy-Cahors (2017)
Aragonés (2019)
I totally agree with what @Nandy61 says, the Hospitales has a reputation for being super challenging but it’s really not that bad. A steady climb but often it’s a gradual climb, and truly no worse than some other segments of the Primitivo. The lack of services, perhaps, does make it more challenging, but with a little planning you’ll be fine. Campiello has two nice stores stocked with everything a pilgrim could need.

And if you’re worried about the distance or want to aim for a slightly shorter stage, then try staying with Javier at the Albergue Samblismo. It’s about 4km after Campiello (just make sure to stock up on food here first)… about a kilometer after Borres you see the signpost for Hospitales, pointing to the right. If you continue to the left, you’ll find the Albergue very quickly. Javier provides a beautiful dinner and breakfast, and there’s a little shortcut to get to the Hospitales route in the morning. From Samblismo to Berducedo is about 23km, which is about the shortest stage you can do if walking Hospitales.

But however you do it, Hospitales is one of the most beautiful stages of any Camino!
 

Felizald

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
I agree with the above comments. The only concern is that the weather can be bad in Hospitales, foggy, misty, rainy, windy, and cold. All of that I had when I did it a couple of August ago. And I wouldn't change it for anything! A walking pole can be useful but not necessary.

Good advice on Samblismo, but be aware they don't have many beds. You can always book the day before. And unless La Mesa has more hostels, there was only one when I did this route. The hostel in La Mesa is really nice and the owners are excellent and helpful people, but Berducedo has more hostels.
 
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances 2015 and2016, Le Puy to Santiago 2017, Porto to Santiago 2018, Lisbon & Olvidado 2021
Well folks, we are appreciative of all the supportive comments as they address our primary concerns square on. We are looking forward to the adventure of walking this segment of the route. Thanks for your assistance.
 
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Past OR future Camino
Frances (2016), Norte (2017), Portuges (2018), Mozarabe (2019), Primitivo (2019), Via de La Plata (2
I have been planning on doing the primitivo route for the last couple of years which has been on hold, obviously! I am hopeful that I will be able to travel in September to start in oviedo. I am slightly concerned as I now suffer from the effects of long covid which makes me more determined to do the camino but I suffer from pretty bad fatigue. Just looking for some advice from people who have walked this route, I understand its a challenging, remote route. Is there regular villages? How challenging is the route? Is there access to transport along the way in case I have to give up walking?
For detail you cannot improve on Nery Aurora's answer although we did stay in different towns along the Camino. However what was not answered was that about the difficulty of the route. I am a reasonably fit 64 year old and I found it very physically demanding, only the first week of the Norte was harder, of any Camino,s that I have done. If you have any doubts about your physical capabilities then I would recommend thinking about doing the Portugues from Tuy.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
We would like to take on the challenge of the Hospital Route (going end of September). How far was the walk from Campiello to La Mesa?
Actually, the Hospitales route is the less challenging of the two options. From Pola de Allande to Berducedo or La Mesa, you will have a more strenuous ascent. So I would stick with Hospitales. This is an old thread, but the routes have not changed.


Campiello to La Mesa via Hospitales is about 31 km. Many people stop in Berducedo, about 4 km earlier, where there are several places to stay.
 

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